SS13

Amelia’s Magazine | Sister by Sibling: London Fashion Week S/S 2013 Catwalk Review

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Sister by Sibling S/S 2013 by Antonia Parker

On the Saturday morning of fashion week I cycled to Somerset House. It was such a sunny, cool morning that I couldn’t help myself. Despite sitting outside the main courtyard for a breather for nearly thirty minutes, I still arrived at the Sister by Sibling salon show sweatier than the Editor-in-chief of French Closer. I couldn’t help it. I don’t know what’s wrong with me at the moment, I just can’t stop bloody sweating. I’m just saying.


Sister by Sibling S/S 2013 by Krister Selin

Anyway, the queue for this hotly anticipated show was enormous and as I stood dabbing my brow I wondered how we were all going to fit inside the tiny Portico Rooms. I managed to find a so-so spot to stand in as the photographers began blocking the entrance. The room was already full, a good percentage of guests modelling this season’s marvellous leopard print numbers. Last minute guests, including my favourite woman (Dame) Suzy Menkes barged in as the show was about to start.

There’s nothing like a bit of dayglo and some X-Ray Spex at a million decibels to wake you up on a Saturday morning. This collection, wonderfully titled ‘Warriors in Woolworths‘, had all the aspects we’ve come to love and expect from Sibling; I was in no doubt when the first model popped from behind the screen that I was going to love everything I was about to see.


Sister by Sibling S/S 2013 by Antonia Parker

Said first model appeared in a white sweater with Sister paint logo daubed across the front and a white ruffle tutu skirt. This was accessorised with the only item you can accessorise a white ruffle tutu skirt with: a full-on lace face mask.

Next came a crocheted top and skirt, complete with ruffles and cap, shortly followed by a pair of white ruffled knickers – but all this white wasn’t fooling me. I knew there’d be some colour pretty soon, and before I could say ‘oh sure’ the colour came coming. Flashes of hot pink, baby pink, yellow and dayglo green appeared on floor length straight-up-and-down no nonsense dresses with matching cardigans.

Crew neck, short-sleeved jumpers and baggy cardigans reminded me of those my grandmother used to wear, expect hers weren’t in illuminous green or embellished with glitter to form reverse skulls. I don’t remember them like that, at least. I much prefer these. A polo-neck dress in green leopard print was a particular favourite, as was a black number with vibrant but delicate flowers splashed all across it.

Punk never looked so fresh.

Written by Matt Bramford on Friday September 21st, 2012 2:31 pm

Categories ,Antonia Parker, ,Cozette McCreery, ,crochet, ,dayglo, ,fashion, ,Joe Bates, ,knitwear, ,Krister Selin, ,london, ,London Fashion Week, ,Matt Bramford, ,Poly Styrene, ,Portico Rooms, ,Punks, ,S/S 2013, ,Sid Bryan, ,Sister by Sibling, ,SS13, ,Suzy Menkes, ,Womenswear, ,X-Ray Spex

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Amelia’s Magazine | Osman: London Fashion Week S/S 2013 Catwalk Review

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Osman S/S 2013 by Krister Selin

And so it was to Osman to ‘close’ my fashion week, as it were. It was getting late on the Tuesday and, frankly, I couldn’t be arsed to trek to Somerset House. I had a heap of work to do and the thought of going all that way to watch models walk in front of me twice for five minutes was almost too much to bear. In the end, I decided to go, obviously; I’m so glad I did.


Osman S/S 2013 by Antonia Parker

I had a rubbish seat but enjoyed watching people skid on Kuoni-sponsored A3 Osman lookbooks as I waited for the show to start. The catwalk had been adorned with a huge black rope, crossing above the bit where the models come out and trailing up both sides of the catwalk. Osman‘s got a bit of a reputation for putting on a good show and I liked the drama that this backdrop was already creating. There was a lot of fuss on the catwalk before proceedings began – Corinne Bailey Rae was one of many guests that had photographers in a flash bulb frenzy. But it was Osman‘s unique and vibrant colour palette and fashion-forward sense of shape that would really get the crowd going.


All photography by Matt Bramford

Incredible hues of pink and blue appeared before us. Osman Yousefzada always has a crafted ability to whet our appetites for the next summer while the current one is slipping away from us. Strong and dynamic shape was this season’s key theme – angular cuts were aplenty. Kimono shapes with a modern twist were teamed with high-waisted shorts, followed by tailored coats that curved to reveal more short shorts.


Osman S/S 2013 by Krister Selin

The collection progressed with embroidered love heart patterns. The same bold silhouettes were decorated with this beautiful design, having a slightly religious effect on certain dramatic overcoats. Brightly coloured hearts brought black garments to life while complimenting the blue and pink numbers.

More drama came later with Osman‘s unique forms: scooping necklines, wide sleeves, geometric patterns on tops, thick strips of fabric wrapped around models’ shoulders like shawls, sexily revealing only the collarbone.


Osman S/S 2013 by Antonia Parker

Less rigid looks followed with flowing skirts and fabric casually slung around models’ necks, but never without a hint of structure – tapered and cropped trousers defining many looks.

A few all black numbers heightened the drama towards the end – I particularly liked an all-in-one cape worn like a hood over skin-tight shiny trousers and a racy dress cut all the way up to the hip with bondage-like corsetry.

My favourite look was the penultimate outfit consisting of a white upper half with fabric draped all the way to the floor, following the model as she swaggered. It had all the qualities of Osman exuberance – femininity, drama and masses of sex appeal. I bet Osman fans new and old can’t bloody wait to get this stuff on come next year.

Written by Matt Bramford on Wednesday September 26th, 2012 10:16 am

Categories ,Antonia Parker, ,BFC, ,Blue, ,Bondage, ,catwalk, ,colour, ,Corinne Bailey Rae, ,embroidery, ,hearts, ,Krister Selin, ,Kuoni, ,London Fashion Week, ,Matt Bramford, ,Osman Yousefzada, ,pink, ,review, ,S/S 2013, ,Somerset House, ,SS13, ,Tuesday, ,Womenswear

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Amelia’s Magazine | Kinder Aggugini: London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Catwalk Review

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Kinder Aggugini S/S 2013 by Emma Reynolds

After salivating and sweating at the Sister by Sibling salon show, I headed to the main tent to catch Kinder Aggugini‘s S/S 2013 offering. I was only given a standing ticket, but I don’t mind at this venue. It’s much better than being on the 24th row, stuck behind some berk fashioning ridiculous millinery, so I patiently waited in the standing queue with the rest of the commoners. It suddenly became ridiculous. The overbearing security ‘guard’ on the door operated in a way more suited to a Tiger Tiger in Croydon – shouting at anybody that dare ask him if they were in the right queue. When one girl who had clearly had enough of his bullish manner told him to ‘go and have a w*nk‘ it took all my strength to stifle giggles.


Kinder Aggugini S/S 2013 by Maya Beus

Inside, I was utterly gobsmacked. The venue was, at most, a quarter full. Why on Earth had we been subjected to such a palaver outside? It was like Olympics seatinggate all over again. I perched on the end of the second row only to be moved to the front as the show was about to start. It’s pretty depressing when this happens, considering the physical and financial strain put on new designers only to half fill a venue. And, I was about to discover, it was to be an unmissable show.


All photography by Matt Bramford

Anyway, I quickly got over my blues as the show started, featuring perhaps the best soundtrack I’ve ever heard at fashion week. It began with that song by Gwen Stefani that samples the Sound of Music, launching the first model out, only to be followed by the likes of Destiny’s Child, Rihanna and the Pussycat Dolls. If I’d had a drink I would have been unable to stop myself from leaping on to the catwalk.


Kinder Aggugini S/S 2013 by Emma Reynolds

The first model appeared in a blue gingham shirt, worn underneath a playful Liberty-print-esque pair of dungarees. It was this twee narrative that would continue for most of the show, and I loved it.

A mix of sexier dresses cut above the knee and floral pinafores followed. Gingham merged with a striking map print, while a one-colour Rococo-inspired print featured on sweaters, loose dresses and an oversized cropped-sleeved overcoat.

Oversized paper-bag waists then made an appearance on skirts and trousers with more and more entertaining prints creating a strong and coherent theme throughout. A cropped-sleeve red blazer with large white buttons, feminine dresses and floral playsuits ensure this S/S 2013 outing will appeal to women with very different styles.


Kinder Aggugini S/S 2013 by Maya Beus

The finale featured a rather eccentric octopus dress – a black velvet and peach sheer mix – which I very much enjoyed but it didn’t seem to fit in anywhere. But, who cares? Certainly not me.


All photography by Matt Bramford

Written by Matt Bramford on Tuesday September 25th, 2012 10:04 am

Categories ,BFC, ,Destiny’s Child, ,Emma Reynolds, ,florals, ,Gingham, ,Gwen Stefani, ,kinder aggugini, ,liberty, ,London Fashion Week, ,Matt Bramford, ,Maya Beus, ,Octopus, ,print, ,Pussycat Dolls, ,Rihanna, ,Rococco, ,S/S 2013, ,Somerset House, ,SS13, ,Womenswear

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Amelia’s Magazine | KTZ: London Fashion Week S/S 2013 Catwalk Review

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KTZ S/S 2013 by Krister Selin

After the Felder Felder show I trekked from Somerset House to Goldsmith’s Hall over by St Paul’s to catch PPQ. As is standard, the PPQ show was massively oversubscribed and with the queue already blocking off streets I didn’t even bother to be turned away with my standing ticket. There was no way I was going to risk missing the mighty KTZ.


KTZ S/S 2013 by Gabriel Ayala

So I legged it to Somerset House like some sort of deranged fashion yo-yo and got seated for the action. Lida from The First to Know who handles KTZ‘s PR looked impeccable in one of their A/W 2012 creations with oversized gold religious emblems. As I waited for the show to start I fantasised about what we might see this season. From 1980s Memphis design to religion, via Africa, it’s been an ever exciting journey with Kokon to Zai and I couldn’t wait to see what they’d crafted this season.


All photography by Matt Bramford

When the pounding music started and the first model appeared I knew instantly that I wasn’t going to be disappointed. Slightly androgynous with a slicked back hair-do and loose pony tail that swished as she marched, the model wore a cropped lace shirt and intricate capri pants with cutaway details, accessorised with oversized pearl earrings and clutch bag. KTZ is one of those rare shows where the audience whoop and cheer at every look.


KTZ S/S 2013 by Krister Selin

The KTZ aesthetic came shortly afterwards, with a model sporting a baseball cap in an intriguing lace full-sleeve dress and a face mask akin to something worn by a very, very fashionable surgeon.

The aesthetic structure of each garment had been inspired by the intricate delicacies of Art Nouveau patterns, in particular William Morris; classic cuts transformed by the whiplash motifs of the era and the fluid, organic lines that differentiate Art Nouveau from other movements. These were expertly applied to the fronts of corseted frocks and the hemlines of short, circular skirts.

The colour black featured heavily as is pretty standard at a KTZ show – translucent tops with thick, black Art Nouveau-inspired embellishments and thigh-high boots in patent leather, teamed the KTZ with huge gold logo accessories, such as an epic bracelet that enveloped the full length of a model’s arm.

Now I would normally say that if you’re a fan of cutesy florals on feminine dresses, steer well clear of KTZ. While that’s still strictly true of this fantasy label, we were then treated to some feminine shapes with sculpted upper halves and playful bulbous skirts. It allowed me to think that this might almost be wearable by people other than Rihanna and Will.i.am.


KTZ S/S 2013 by Gabriel Ayala

Welcomed bursts of colour began to fill the catwalk: a peach tone not seen since 1980s bridesmaids dresses that worked effortlessly with this monochrome-heavy collection, and an effervescent green number for good measure seemed a bit of an odd choice, but if KTZ ever become predictable I’ll stop bloody going.

The detail, craftsmanship and translation of a theme was simply awe-inspiring and rendered me breathless in under 12 minutes – a sensation I sadly haven’t experienced in a while.

Long may KTZ reign!

Written by Matt Bramford on Thursday September 20th, 2012 1:43 pm

Categories ,1980s, ,Art Nouveau, ,Bridesmaids, ,Gabriel Ayala, ,Harajuku girls, ,Kokon To Zai, ,Krister Selin, ,KTZ, ,lace, ,London Fashion Week, ,Matt Bramford, ,Peach, ,Pearlescent, ,S/S 2013, ,Somerset House, ,SS13, ,William Morris, ,Womenswear

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Amelia’s Magazine | Felder Felder: London Fashion Week S/S 2013 Catwalk Review

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Felder Felder S/S 2013 by Claire Kearns

So it’s bloody fashion week again! Comes around quickly, doesn’t it? Every six months, in fact. I hadn’t allowed myself to get too excited or stressed this time around, so when I arrived at Somerset House on Friday evening for my first show of the season – Felder Felder – I was hoping they could whip me up in to a fashion frenzy. I decided to go and register first, quickly filing past streetstyle snappers taking pictures of other streetstyle snappers with birds in their hair and toilet seats around their necks. As I registered I recognised the dulcet tones of an Essex girl and glanced over noticing it was Lydia from TOWIE, a somewhat fashion week darling these days. I love Lyds and she looked gorgeous, but I couldn’t help noticing that her stylist had been a bit over-zealous with the eyebrow tweezers. I’m sorry I don’t have a picture but if you Google her no doubt you’ll see what I mean.


Felder Felder S/S 2013 by Janneke de Jong

I made my way to the big top tent in the centre of the courtyard and was totally surprised by how well organised it was. ‘Have I stepped in to a parallel universe?’ I thought to myself as I surveyed the calm, atmospheric room with people glugging Baileys cocktails and air kissing. Queuing was a breeze, free of shouting and angst, and all I could do was hope that the rest of the week would pan out like this.

At the catwalk, it was a similarly calm affair. That was until that lunatic Nancy Dell’Olio arrived and the photographers started to mount each other just to get a shot of her. God knows what it would be like if somebody more famous than Nancy Del’Olio arrived – you know, like a Paralympian perhaps, or that pup that won Britain’s Got Talent. They’d go wild.


Kate Nash. All photography by Matt Bramford

The lights fell and out came a grungy-looking creature who stood on a box and started singing. I had absolutely no idea, until my pal The London Lip Gloss told me after the show, that this was Kate Nash. I made a mental note to start reading show notes. No longer the red-haired, over annunciating Cockney, Kate Nash has been transformed in to a slightly gothic gal with the help of a different stylist and a bottle of hair dye. She can’t half belt out a tune though and, looking back, I think this new style really suits her.

It didn’t take long for Felder Felder‘s S/S 2013 outing to reignite that fire in my belly. With Kate Nash‘s vocals as the soundtrack, models began to appear in what has now become the Felder sisters’ trademark – floaty frocks and gorgeous digital prints worn by powerful females.


Felder Felder by Janneke de Jong.

Digital leopard print came first on said floaty frocks in pastel colours, on a-line numbers and then those with long trains that Felder Felder do so well. This was then traded for a grungier butterfly pattern in dark blues on tailored jackets and pants.

Next we saw translucent pastel blue blouses and an ethereal floor-sweeping dress in the same colour.

My favourites were th 1950s-esque swimwear pieces, some with ruffles on knickers and others covering entire swimming-costume shapes. A ruffled skirt with sweetheart neckline top had the crowd clapping with glee.

The final, show-stopping piece featured all of the above: that floating hemline, the ruffles around the waist, the pastel palette, this time in a cloudy orange, daringly split up both thighs.

It was a collection of grown-up elegance while still having that rock n’ roll attitude the Felder sisters are famous for.

Written by Matt Bramford on Tuesday September 18th, 2012 7:19 pm

Categories ,Baileys, ,BFC, ,Butterflies, ,catwalk, ,Catwalk Space, ,Clare Kearns, ,Digital Prints, ,fashion, ,Felder Felder, ,Janneke de Jong, ,Kate Nash, ,London Fashion Week, ,Lydia Bright, ,Matt Bramford, ,review, ,Ruffles, ,S/S 2013, ,Somerset House, ,SS13, ,TOWIE, ,Womenswear

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Amelia’s Magazine | An Interview with Designer Joseph Turvey – Part 2

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Joseph Turvey S/S 2013 by Gemma Cotterell

Joe’s MA collection: vibrant orange and magenta lace with transparent panels and translucent trenches was a massive hit. Fake Tokyo completely sold out and they’re backing him again this season, amongst many others. I sense that Joe is pretty busy minded. He’s conquering Asia step-by-step. He opened Shanghai Fashion Week with said MA collection, an experience he’ll never forget. ‘The catwalk was MASSIVE!’ he tells me, ‘it was like a Madonna tour!’

Joseph Turvey MA collection

We take a look through the current Spring/Summer collection – a range of dazzling neon hues married with white t-shirts and his synonymous illustrative portraits. Joe demonstrates the heat-sensitive technique he’s pioneered for spring/summer, so the model’s face becomes clear when worn. I ask if the faces we’re now so familiar with are based on anyone in particular. ‘Not really,’ he says, ‘I merge a few faces together. A bit like Frankenstein’, he laughs. Joe tells me that people always ask the story behind his personal interpretations and influences on his collections. ‘People always look for hidden meanings,’ he says. ‘Maybe I should be more like Taylor Swift and feature exes.’

What else is in the pipeline? ‘I really like collaborations,’ he says, ‘I like the juxtaposition of things.’ Joe’s currently collaborating with Hush Puppies, pioneer of the men’s comfort shoe but currently undergoing a massive relaunch under the creative direction of Jack Hemingway. He’s excited to work with established brands and put his stamp on menswear staples.

I ask how S/S 2014 is going. ‘I’ve nearly finished!’ he says, excitedly. I ask what we might expect. ‘It’s very colourful,’ he tells me, careful not to reveal too much. ‘There’s a central figure, again, and it’s very illustrative.’ He’s obsessed with the aesthetics of fabrics and innovative textures and his ethos is to always move things forward: lace, vinyl-peaked caps, laser-cut florals; the contrast of gloss spots on a black bomber. Joe works closely with acclaimed London textile company Insley & Nash in his constant endeavours to advance fashion techniques.


Joseph Turvey S/S 2013 by Karina Järv

I take a few photographs of both collections as we chat about everything else. What other brands does he admire? Baartmans and Siegel (who are ‘amazing’) and close pal Domingo Rodriguez are high on his list, as is Christopher Kane, who manages to make clothes ‘sellable but with his stamp on it.’

What advice would Joe give to current graduates looking to follow in his footsteps? ‘The best thing I did was the MA,’ he declares. With Savile Row tutoring and free reign on his future, Joe developed his unique approach we’ve become so quickly familiar with. ‘I’d say – don’t rush in to anything. I spent a lot of money doing it, but it really helped me focus. It’s about developing your skills. Make it exactly what you want it to be.’

Written by Matt Bramford on Friday March 8th, 2013 9:55 am

Categories ,Asia, ,beyonce, ,Fake Tokyo, ,fashion, ,Gemma Cotterell, ,interview, ,Joseph Turvey, ,Karina Jarv, ,lace, ,ma, ,Matt Bramford, ,menswear, ,Shanghai Fashion Week, ,SS13

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Amelia’s Magazine | An Interview with Designer Joseph Turvey – Part 1

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Joseph Turvey A/W 2013 by Krister Selin

While everybody else viewed next season’s collections at the A/W 2013 London Collections: Men shows in January, I spent the week on a rather tedious stint of jury service. For days I sat doing nowt, following the shows and presentations on my iPhone through the usual channels. Twitter, Facebook and Instagram went wild for the latest offerings and it was Joseph Turvey‘s incredible dalmatian-themed collection that I most enjoyed viewing at 640 pixels wide.


Joseph Turvey

Back in 2010 I saw Joseph present his BA graduate womenswear collection at Graduate Fashion Week. Inspired by Margaret Rutherford and complete with ethereal masks, it was a sharp, polished collection with elements of menswear tailoring. I interviewed Joe shortly afterwards; a brief, standard post-GFW interview. Joseph then contributed illustrations to Amelia’s Magazine (amongst many other publications). But it was during Ones to Watch A/W 2012, merging his illustrative style with his talent for tailoring and eye for experimental materials, that propelled him on to the menswear scene. Also, Beyoncé once touched his hand during a performance of Halo.


Joseph Turvey A/W 2013 by Dom&Ink

I meet Joe in the hip offices of Coffin on Cake PR – a labyrinth of rooms above Redchurch Street with all sorts of weird and wonderful objects adorning walls. Joe is waiting in the showroom at the end of a long corridor, with other brands overshadowed by his incredible S/S and A/W 2013 collections. On sight of the dalmatian print enveloping his latest designs, I leap towards it to finally see it in the flesh. I’ve met Joe before but I’d forgotten how tall he was. His gentle personality and new-found confidence are instantly infectious. I launch into a series of typical questions, surmounting the urge to chat about Beyoncé – that will have to wait.


Joseph Turvey A/W 2013 by youdesignme

When I ask him how his day has been, he tells me he’s been rushed off his feet and hasn’t stopped – photoshoots, meetings, and walking his beloved cockapoo. This takes us nicely into chatting about his current collection. ‘I’m obsessed with dogs,’ he tells me, ‘I’m surrounded by dog owners and I love the idea of dog owners dressing like their dogs.’ I ask about the A/W 2013 presentation that garnered so much attention. ‘I got obsessed with having dalmatian puppies at the show… they came up from Devon!’ he says. I play devil’s advocate and ponder what PETA might think. ‘They were very well looked after… they were on rotation, and they’re show dogs – one of the girl pups absolutely loved the attention!’.

Each collection has had a central figure as inspiration and it will come as no surprise to learn that this season’s was Cruella de Vil; the result, a slick collection featuring suiting, bombers, sweaters and t-shirts adorned with dalmatian print. The installation at the AW13 showcase was ‘intense’ – two hours of ‘hardcore’ attention and showmanship. He describes it as ‘overwhelming’ and ‘scary’ and remembers the drama, with hushed whispers of PRs introducing attendees and figures like Natalie Massenet checking things out.

Joe launched himself straight onto the MA at London College of Fashion after graduating from the University of Birmingham. It was a tutor there who commented on the masculine feel of his womenswear collections, and so he decided to move in that direction. I ask Joe if he’d like to return to womenswear. ‘You never know what’s going to happen’, he says, coyly, ‘I just want to make the menswear the best it can be.’

Part two to follow tomorrow!

Photography by Matt Bramford except images of A/W 2013 presentation – courtesy of Coffin on Cake PR.

Written by Matt Bramford on Wednesday March 6th, 2013 5:42 pm

Categories ,A/W’13, ,beyonce, ,Coffin on Cake PR, ,Cruella de Vil, ,Dalmatians, ,Dogs, ,interview, ,Joseph Turvey, ,Krister Selin, ,London Collections Men, ,Matt Bramford, ,menswear, ,Ones To Watch, ,puppies, ,SS13, ,Style, ,youdesignme

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