Peach

Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Catwalk Review: J. JS Lee

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J. JS Lee S/S 2012, this web illustrated by Claire Kearns

Korean born J. JS Lee (first J for Jackie) hosted a salon show on the sunny Sunday morning of fashion week in the Portico Rooms at Somerset House. Central Saint Martins alumni, Jackie graduated with an MA in womenswear only last year and has since received the Harrods Award accolade.


J. JS Lee S/S 2012, illustrated by Phoebe Kirk

We were seated on the infamous white benches that had caused outrage at JW Anderson‘s show the previous day, when front row fashionistas stood up at the end of his presentation to find their arses covered in white paint that hadn’t had time to dry. Oops. How awful. I did a quick hand test to make sure the same wasn’t going to happen to my jeans. I took a seat right next to the photographer’s ‘pit’ – sparse in comparison to most of the shows. A lady stood so close to me in the pit that I almost offered her the chance to sit in my lap, but thought better of it. It turned out she would be a rather dominant creature, and had a flashbulb the size of my head which made it almost impossible to take pictures myself, the lighting changing so dramatically with every shot. Cheers then!






This was a simple, sophisticated show with clean lines and infinitely wearable pieces. Jackie had drawn inspiration from the 1920s, creating elongated silhouettes with jackets and dresses that were a straight-up-and-down fashion, adding an element of androgyny. The collection launched with crisp all-white pieces, progressing into a cool peach and a rich cobalt blue, breaking up this presentation nicely.

Real care and attention had been invested in the materials – strong cottons were teamed with high-gloss elements and embossed features, giving a strong futuristic aesthetic. The firmness of the fabrics allowed them to be folded like origami, adding a further contemporary element.


J. JS Lee S/S 2012, illustrated by Phoebe Kirk

While this wasn’t mind-blowing, it was refreshing to see such a considered collection. Beautiful choices in both colour and materials suggest a fashionable future for J. JS Lee.

Watch the full show here:

Written by Matt Bramford on Tuesday September 20th, 2011 8:20 am

Categories ,1920s, ,catwalk, ,Central Saint Martins, ,Cobalt, ,fashion, ,Futurism, ,J. JS Lee, ,Jackie JS Lee, ,korea, ,Peach, ,Portico Rooms, ,review, ,S/S 2012, ,Salon Show, ,Somerset House, ,Sunday, ,White, ,Womenswear

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Amelia’s Magazine | KTZ: London Fashion Week S/S 2013 Catwalk Review

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KTZ S/S 2013 by Krister Selin

After the Felder Felder show I trekked from Somerset House to Goldsmith’s Hall over by St Paul’s to catch PPQ. As is standard, the PPQ show was massively oversubscribed and with the queue already blocking off streets I didn’t even bother to be turned away with my standing ticket. There was no way I was going to risk missing the mighty KTZ.


KTZ S/S 2013 by Gabriel Ayala

So I legged it to Somerset House like some sort of deranged fashion yo-yo and got seated for the action. Lida from The First to Know who handles KTZ‘s PR looked impeccable in one of their A/W 2012 creations with oversized gold religious emblems. As I waited for the show to start I fantasised about what we might see this season. From 1980s Memphis design to religion, via Africa, it’s been an ever exciting journey with Kokon to Zai and I couldn’t wait to see what they’d crafted this season.


All photography by Matt Bramford

When the pounding music started and the first model appeared I knew instantly that I wasn’t going to be disappointed. Slightly androgynous with a slicked back hair-do and loose pony tail that swished as she marched, the model wore a cropped lace shirt and intricate capri pants with cutaway details, accessorised with oversized pearl earrings and clutch bag. KTZ is one of those rare shows where the audience whoop and cheer at every look.


KTZ S/S 2013 by Krister Selin

The KTZ aesthetic came shortly afterwards, with a model sporting a baseball cap in an intriguing lace full-sleeve dress and a face mask akin to something worn by a very, very fashionable surgeon.

The aesthetic structure of each garment had been inspired by the intricate delicacies of Art Nouveau patterns, in particular William Morris; classic cuts transformed by the whiplash motifs of the era and the fluid, organic lines that differentiate Art Nouveau from other movements. These were expertly applied to the fronts of corseted frocks and the hemlines of short, circular skirts.

The colour black featured heavily as is pretty standard at a KTZ show – translucent tops with thick, black Art Nouveau-inspired embellishments and thigh-high boots in patent leather, teamed the KTZ with huge gold logo accessories, such as an epic bracelet that enveloped the full length of a model’s arm.

Now I would normally say that if you’re a fan of cutesy florals on feminine dresses, steer well clear of KTZ. While that’s still strictly true of this fantasy label, we were then treated to some feminine shapes with sculpted upper halves and playful bulbous skirts. It allowed me to think that this might almost be wearable by people other than Rihanna and Will.i.am.


KTZ S/S 2013 by Gabriel Ayala

Welcomed bursts of colour began to fill the catwalk: a peach tone not seen since 1980s bridesmaids dresses that worked effortlessly with this monochrome-heavy collection, and an effervescent green number for good measure seemed a bit of an odd choice, but if KTZ ever become predictable I’ll stop bloody going.

The detail, craftsmanship and translation of a theme was simply awe-inspiring and rendered me breathless in under 12 minutes – a sensation I sadly haven’t experienced in a while.

Long may KTZ reign!

Written by Matt Bramford on Thursday September 20th, 2012 1:43 pm

Categories ,1980s, ,Art Nouveau, ,Bridesmaids, ,Gabriel Ayala, ,Harajuku girls, ,Kokon To Zai, ,Krister Selin, ,KTZ, ,lace, ,London Fashion Week, ,Matt Bramford, ,Peach, ,Pearlescent, ,S/S 2013, ,Somerset House, ,SS13, ,William Morris, ,Womenswear

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