Amelia’s Magazine | SANKUANZ presented by GQ China: London Collections: Men S/S 2015 Catwalk Review

Sankuanz-SS-2015 by Gareth A Hopkins
SANKUANZ S/S 2015 by Gareth A Hopkins

After two seasons representing Kay Kwok, GQ China switch their attentions to Xiamen-based designer Shangguan Zhe, better known as SANKUANZ. As is often the case, I knew nothing about this up-and-coming label, but a debut London Collections: Men showcase is probably a good place to start.

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SANKUANZ S/S 2015 by Chris Sav

A combination of an exodus to Milan and a debut catwalk show meant that inside Victoria House wasn’t exactly heaving. Staff rushed to seat everybody as near to the front as possible, so I took a spot on the front row despite having a standing ticket.

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All photography by Matt Bramford

The first dozen or so looks were strong, but I felt like I’d seen it before. Long white lab coats had been embellished with embroidered black designs, inspired by Russian prison tattoos, ranging from obscure slogans to graphic phalluses. These coats were a fusion between 18th century frock coats and modern day sportswear. Translucent crew neck tops, crisp shirts and mesh hoodies, all in white, were styled underneath, flashing mouthpieces were used and Raf Simons-esque futuristic footwear completed the looks. Some pretty silly brightly-coloured fur shorts were the only break from white.

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During a short pause afterwards I thought, ‘yes, I quite like it, some wearable pieces, a bit small as a collection perhaps’ and some other nonsense. Then, almost from nowhere, a model appeared wearing what I can only describe as a giant pair of brightly coloured papier-mâché claw hands. ‘Oh, here we go’ I thought to myself as I frantically tried to take pictures and pick my jaw up from the floor.

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Without visual aids I couldn’t tell you a single item of clothing that the models were wearing during this ‘latter stage’ of the show, but I could remember enormous polka-dot lobster claws, Popeye-like forearms and gigantic acid-painted hands making an ‘OK’ sign. It was like a ludicrous tribute to Emoji and I enjoyed every bloody minute.

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Looking back on the collection, these gimmicks were paired with some pretty decent garments. Black sweatshirts made more of the Russian criminal emblems and the frock coat in black was less lab-coat and more wearable, but that isn’t what I’ll remember this collection for.

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Categories ,catwalk, ,Chris Sav, ,fashion, ,Gareth A Hopkins, ,GQ China, ,LCMSS2015, ,London Collections Men, ,Matt Bramford, ,menswear, ,Popeye, ,Raf Simons, ,review, ,SANKUANZ, ,Shangguan Zhe, ,SS15, ,Style, ,Victoria House

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Amelia’s Magazine | Style Tiger on the Prowl!!!!

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Dan Stanley is a London-based illustrator and designer who will soon be launching his new range of greeting cards, buy this web Fluffy Thoughts. He graduated from the London Metropolitan University in 2007 and began setting up Fluffy Thoughts. His fanciful daydreams inspire his designs that are filled with mischievous animals and fuzzy creatures! They mix together a childlike innocence with colourful wit, website like this drawing you deeper into the mysterious world of his characters. Dan has plans to develop his character range further to include soft toys, sildenafil vinyl toys, books and clothing – he invites you now to step into his shiny, cloud-filled universe.

Tell me more about Fluffy Thoughts? ??

Fluffy Thoughts is my range of greeting cards that I designed and are soon to be launched! My initial design ideas were based around a set of creature characters that I put together while completing an Art Foundation course. The range will be available through my online shop and I am currently working towards having them stocked in shops too.

You design many surreal, fun characters. What are the biggest influences on your designs?
?
I love Japanese design and animation. I’m a huge fan of anything with cute or crazy characters! So I decided to create my own too and had lots of fun doing so! I had designed and produced a number of soft toy monsters and it’s great to see more of my characters come to life through Fluffy Thoughts. I love illustrators such as Alex Pardee, Bubi Au Yeung, and also illustrated brands such as Ugly Dolls and Tokidoki.?

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What are your thoughts on our homegrown artists at the moment? ? 

?There is a growing interest in hand drawn art and illustration, rather than computer generated art, which is fantastic. It’s shifting away from the accurate images created on computers and has moved onto more irregular and rough styles which I feel gives the artwork more of a personal identity. ? ?There is a great interest in Vinyl toys at the moment which has increased the popularity of characters within a larger age group. This is great news, I’ve always been a huge fan of character based designs which spurred me onto design my creatures. I’m a big follower of illustrated brands such as TADO, NOODOLL and LAZY OAF who are all based in London too.

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?What are your other plans for the future???

Greeting cards are only the beginning. I hope to expand on Fluffy Thoughts with a clothing range and various other products. I would love to expand on some of my characters stories with illustrated books also!
I have been a Madonna fan for years and years. When I was younger it bordered on obssessional, buy information pills but has lessened now due to her ill-advised recent collaboration with super producer, page Timbaland, where she just sounded like a guest vocalist on her own album. To say I’m disappointed doesn’t even come close to an understatement. But let’s not dwell on this, as luckily, this collection does not focus on this period – but on the good old glory days, well decades actually.

Described as a collection of memorabilia, there definitely is a lot of Madonna paraphernalia on show here in the Truman Brewery. In the huge concrete car park of the brewery evidently.
The biggest draw being costumes she wore on stage and in films. However, when looking at them, something wasn’t feeling right. Look at the picture below:

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At first glance you would not think this was part of an exhibition about Madonna. Yes, this collection of outfits come mainly from her conservatively dressed role in Evita, but it’s not just that. The clothes don’t fit properly on the many cheap looking identical mannequins:

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I guess for an exhibition about the notorious perfectionist Madonna, you would expect the same high level of professionalism from a show dedicated to her, and that just was not evident here.
Also, considering there is a disclaimer saying that Madonna had nothing to do with it, they have copies of her record and divorce contracts, her old credit card from the 1980′s and pages from her personal diary. I know you can acquire these through auctions but you are left wondering how they have these items, you are also left wondering if, in fact Madonna is gagged and bound in one of the dark corners of the car park, as the ultimate piece of memorabilia…

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Although fascinating to see on a voyeuristic fan level, there was an unsettling atmosphere to the whole experience. Perhaps it was the sparse venue, or perhaps it was because Madonna is such an icon with so much history, an exhibition dedicated to her could have and should have been spectacular. This sadly, was not.
Between January and April 1996 approximately 360 acres of land including 120 acres of woodland were cleared to make way for the building of a new road, drug the Newbury bypass. The demolition was met by one of the largest anti-road protests in history with over 7000 people directly demonstrating on the site. From July 1995 protesters began to occupy the land, pill living in tree houses and tents. It was a long hard fight and a momentous period of social history that is all the more relevant today with the increasing disparity between environmental legislation and climate deterioration, and the growth of environmental activism. Jim Hindle was in the thick of things and has written a book about his experience, Nine Miles.

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What are your intentions for the book and what do you think it’s
relevance is in our present state of climactic urgency?

On the most basic level I wanted to tell the story of what happened; for history’s sake but also due to the relevance that story has now, in terms of the amount of roads being built today and also for the wider
climatic situation. Road transport in the UK accounts for more than 21% of our total CO2 emmision and is set to rise pretty fiercely without efforts to reign it in. But also, I wanted to convey something of the feeling of those times, of the sense of inspiration that was so strong in the campaigns I’ve described;
there’s a sense that that spirit can inform us now however we choose to act or the environment, or changing the world in general, or even simply how we live our lives.

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How does your life now relate to your life in the 90′s? Are you still involved in activism?

I’ve had to knock activism on the head these days, for reasons that are clearer when you read the book. I did go to the first climate camp and while it was amazingly inspiring it was also pretty stressful, the kind of situation that I’m meant to be avoiding. So I limit myself to talking and writing as a way to influence the world now. I don’t live outdoors but camp and walk as much as I can in the summer. Right now I live on the edge of a small town in a converted outhouse with a firepit outdoors but can see myself back in a house or a flat before too long. Living outdoors isn’t made easy in this country but I am at least gravitating away from the middle of cities as places to be in full time.

I‘m quite interested to find out what everyone is doing now-are you still in touch?

Sarah is in the mountains in Wales with a young child. Badger is living in the West Country working as a carpenter with his wife and three kids. Tami studied maths, got a scholarship to Oxford and is now working as a website designer. Many folks are still activists in one way or another but I think everyone holds precious the memory of what happened. There’s kind of an unspoken bond.

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What are your thoughts on the current wave of climate action?

I think it’s really inspiring. I’ve always felt that to be most effective direct action needs to be as intelligent and discriminating as possible and all the signs are that those involved with Plane Stupid, for instance, share this approach. It carries a big responsibility too. Certainly to see direct action as some kind of cure-all or the way to go about things in the first instance doesn’t seem like the way forward. Martin Luther King said it should only be undertaken as a last resort and it takes it’s place within a bigger picture. There’s many ways to campaign for things but I do think direct action has a vital place.

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I think the climate camps have maybe been a bit gung-ho in declaring intentions to shut down power stations and the like; it kind of guarantees a full on police response but I think to be fair there are many folks involved who would agree. And they’re amazing testimonies to how far everything has come, the organization that goes into the camps is truly something else. And it carries the torch of DIY culture, to be involved; people realizing that it’s not enough to wait for someone else to do something, that we all carry responsibilty for our actions and the actions of our culture.

I do sometimes feel too that it shouldn’t be neccessary, that people shouldn’t have to put themselves through it but it raises the stakes and shakes people out of their apathy and there’s as much need for that as ever; steering society to something more sustainable is like steering some massive tanker and when
change is not apparent there’s the danger of inertia creeping in. So it’s important, if nothing else, to raise our voices on the issue, to remind the politicians that there’s everything to fight for, to help give them license perhaps to act for the climate and certainly to hold them to their responsibilities. And there’s a new generation now getting involved, which is amazing, the whole thing has evolved and there’s a freshness and an urgency, which is what we need in copious amounts…

Jim will be reading extracts from his book on 17th March at 7.30pm at The Hornbeam Centre in London and on 28th March for the Climate Camp benefit at Westhill Music Club in Brighton.
Basso and Brooke was, find without a doubt, THE worst organised show of the week. We arrived a bit late, and squeezing our way into the surging throng, rougher than any mosh pit despite the far greater average of lipstick and high heels, it transpired that they’d reached capacity in the Bloomsbury Ballroom where the show was being held and the 200-strong throng of ticket-holders outside weren’t getting in. All that practice at gigs must’ve come in handy as I proved to be a far more effective pusher and shover than our in-house fashion bitch Jenny. I managed to be the last person admitted to the show and was rushed down the stairs by the totally harassed PR going “I told him to get a bigger venue”. Forget about freebies at this one, I didn’t even get a chair.

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That said, I ended up with a pretty good view of the catwalk meaning I could fully take in the Rococo ambience of the show with its sumptuous, brocaded Jackie O suits and dress and distressed hairdos, somewhere between seventeenth century wigs and sixties helmet heads. This was all sound-tracked by string versions of heavy metal songs, a tongue-in-cheek touch that raised a smile on many a frazzled fashion face. The opening notes of Sweet Child O’ Mine had an appropriately frantic urgency to it when played on a violin.

However, the music at Basso and Brooke was as nothing compared with the brilliant horror soundtrack of Ann-Sofie Back that we went to that evening. Her collection was heavily inspired by horror movies such as Carrie, and models wafted down the catwalk wearing white contact lenses, pale face makeup and wild frizz-bomb hair. Ripped denim, dream-catcher feathers and slogan sweatshirts were the order of the day although my most coveted item was a pair of red tinted aviators that turned into little blood drops at the bottom.

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She was in a double bill with Peter Jensen at the Topshop showspace although I only have vague memories of his show, overshadowed as it was by the gothic offering it preceded. I’ve got a general memory of folksy, ethnic embroidery on over-the-knee white boots and boys in puffy waistcoats. Topshop also laid on a good spread of sausage rolls and champagne, although as my Topshop employee cohort pointed out, perhaps Philip Green could have directed some of those funds towards not firing some of his floor staff. Just an idea. Still, I enjoyed the posh pub spread and the ensuing shows and one thing I am definitely going to try and get hold of for this summer is a reduced-rate pair of bloody sunnies.

I have been left so in awe by the sheer quantity of auspicious talent at the Esthethica stand at London Fashion Week this month that I felt just one article would not suffice in covering this fundamental event in the fashion calender. I felt it all to hard to digest all in one sitting so I embarked on another tour of the stands having already covered Beyond Skin, malady Izzy lane and Ada Zandition.I set out to prowl for more talent. The first to lure me into his stand was sustainable fashion designer Mark Lius, doctor a man that whole heartedly deserves the title of forerunner in ethical production. His collection draws influence from the philosophy entitled ” Singularity Point”. The thesis is that a system after time becomes self aware of its own limitations and eventually devises a structure to rewrite its own rules and push itself further. Mark has miraculously achieved to produce his entire collection without the use of a sewing machine!. Astounding I know!!!

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The collection oozes romance featuring a subtle palette which graduates from muted creams through to pinks and charcoals giving the collection a real sense of fluidity .Each of the dresses is beautifully crafted with such intricacy, delicate and understated prints are complimented perfectly by the elegant cut of the dresses .

The next designer to ensnare me was the pioneering label Good One. Having already worked with I-D magazine and juice magazine, and been finalists for the new designer of the year award, this brand are already making waves in the fashion sphere. Made from locally sourced recycled fabrics, Good One proves using old fabrics in your designs certainly doesn’t have to look like a sack of rags from Oxfam!.The collection exudes colour with block shapes and print to create stylish yet individual dresses.

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The brand offers an online shop, which supplies the entire charity range and with prices starting from £30 it wont leave a significant dent in your pockets. To top it all off all the profits go straight back to charity, double bonus!!.

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With the rise of disposable fashion Good One provides a legitimate solution to waste reduction.The brand are also expanding their knowledge to the rest of the fashion industry and have established their own consultancy to educate existing brands to tackle their own waste issues.

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To summarise, Esthetica this month has been a real tour de force of talent that has left me with an overwhelming feeling of amour for our British ethical talent. Watch this space because I have an excitation that this is just the beginning of a outstanding era of success for this talented bunch………………….

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Climate Rush like to do what it says on the tin, dosage so when the Landmark Hotel closed all entrances apart from one heavily guarded by police, it was obvious that a rush was needed in order to make sure that the UK NO NEW COAL AWARDS went ahead as planned. How inconsiderate of them to lock us out when we had a schedule to keep!

So, at 6.30pm on the dot we stormed through the fire exit and elegantly rushed into the Winter Garden area of the atrium, where we planned to hold our counter awards to the UK Coal industry’s annual pat on the back.

To the total bemusement of men and women in black tie stood by, not to mention the hotel staff, we sat down and began to chant “No New Coal.” Tamsin Omond and Marina Pepper, our favourite ex-page three girl, appeared at the balcony above the hall and started to hand out awards, but this being Tamsin the police were on her like a shot; whisking her off and out of the hotel even as she read out the awards. How undeserved!

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As a huge banner was unfurled, bearing James Hansen’s immortal words: “COAL FIRED POWER STATIONS ARE FACTORIES OF DEATH. CLOSE THEM” by two intrepid climbers on the lintel above, Marina instead gave a rousing speech to the hundred or so present, some munching on beautifully sliced cucumber sandwiches that the crusts had been lovingly cut off.

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Marina was informed that the awards had in fact been cancelled, and that the dodgy emails that Climate Rush had received, one signed by Mark Land (hoho) and one from the silly sounding Buster Gonads, were indeed bona fide missives from the hotel’s staff.

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Thereafter followed some dilema, which was solved in style by consensus, when we collectively decided to politely vacate the building. This led to some milling around outside with a bunch of people in black tie who were trying to get inside, as we tried to decide if the claims were in fact true.

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One guest claimed to be from BP, which led to the conclusion that we had been lied to, and so we rushed around to the back of the building where rumours of another entrance spread like wildfire. Hanging onto the gates with sheer force of will, Climate Rushers attempted to stop the police from closing us out.

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Clearly perturbed by the turn of events, Landmark manager Mr. Green then invited two of our kind in on a tour of the hotel to prove that UK Coal had indeed cancelled the event – believed to have taken place during the day instead.

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Marina then returned to tell us the fantastic news that the Landmark hotel have undertaken a pledge never again to entertain Climate Changing industries, and not only this, but they will attempt to push this policy out across the other 25 hotels in this luxury hotel chain. We fully expect Mr. Green to keep to his word!

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With our bike sound system now powered up it was time to complete our rollcall of awards, handing out our fantastic (some might say faintly ridiculous) coalmine canaries (at least, those that hadn’t yet been confiscated by the police – paper mache can be very dangerous) So here, in no particular order, are the UK No New Coal Awards

Science Fiction award 
goes to the most unbelievable technology not yet available to stop CO2 emissions, Carbon Capture and Storage.

Financial Fool award 
goes to the Royal Bank of Scotland, for helping to raise $16 billion in loans to finance the worldwide coal industry over the past two years.

LIfetime Achievement award 
goes to Drax coal fired power station, for the Greatest Emissions in the UK, equivalent to that of the 54 poorest countries in the world.

Best Supporting Role 
goes to the biggest Climate Coward, Gordon Brown, for putting business interests before Climate Change.

Best Newcomer 
goes to the next likely “factory of death”, Kingsnorth coal fired power station in Kent.

and finally…

UK Coal Personality of the Year  
goes to Paul Golby, CEO of energy company E.ON, for outstanding services to Greenwash (whilst plotting to build Kingsnorth)

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We then danced on down the road to a local Wetherspoons (yuk) as recommended by the police, where all celebrated in red sashes, to the amusement of the other punters.

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Remembering that we still had a room available in the hotel, some of us returned to continue celebrating in five star luxury, whilst we crafted a press release and uploaded our pictures. Well, it would be a shame to waste such style!

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Today I woke with my heart singing, for what Climate Rush did yesterday was really rather wonderful. The power of many makes us strong – long may our adventures in stopping Climate Change continue.
Not a Feminists Art Show!
Sixteen artists will exhibit a collection of multi media art work that focuses on women without using the word Female, drug the main focus being how to create modern works of art without it being labeled as feminist especially when its regarding one genre.

Private Viewing will take place on Wednesday 4 March 19:30 – 22:30 and the Exhibition is on from 5 till the 10th of March 11:00am – 18:00pm, viagra dosage Taking place at the electrician’s shop Trinity Buoy Wharf Orchard Pl, Tower Hamlets, London E14, UK

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Picasso: Challenging the Past
The National Gallery has put together an exhibition exploring Picasso’s artistic interpretation and investigation of past masters of art and their subjects, from the female nude to portraits and the female sitter.

Visitors to Trafalgar Square will be treated to spectacular illuminations covering the front of the National Gallery from 25th of February till the 4th of March. The exhibition takes place from the 25th February – 7 June 2009, room 1, admission free

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First Thursdays
On the first Thursday of every month over 100 galleries and museums in east London open until 9pm, giving visitors a chance to see some amazing art work.

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Laura Oldfield Ford: Drifting through the ruins
Hales Gallery, London 2013,
30 Jan – 14 Mar 2009

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Barbara Steinberg: Panoply
Signal Gallery
96a Curtain Road, Hoxton, London, EC2A

Rufus Miller: Sex N’ Death
An exhibition based around the London based artist’s reflections of life.
The Sassoon gallery, 213 Blenheim Grove Peckham
6th- 11th March
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Featured Illustrator

Cristina Petrucci

After a degree in Costume Design for the Performing Arts at The London College of Fashion Cristina began to explore costume design and illustration, she retrained as an illustrator at Camberwell College of Art and Design and as since showed and taken part in various exhibitions.
Her works are dreamy fairy tale like scenes with sharp echoes of surrealism, Art Nouveau and a touch of feminism as seen in the Illustration bellow.

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Where are you based?
I’m based in North London

What inspires you in your work and why?
I got into art at college. I didn’t do a GCSE in art at school which I always regretted I chose to do a GCSE in Drama instead. I’ve always been torn between the theatre and art. When I came to choosing my A levels at college I thought that there was no way I could choose Art. So I chose psychology. I walked out of the first lesson and went straight to the art department and asked for a place. I got it, but had to prove my ability throughout the first year, before I was put forward for A level examination. It was worth the hard work, as I came out with an A and I guess the rest is history. I went on to do a foundation in art and design at Central Saint Martins, continuing by following the normal route of progression…degree to MA.

Who do you aspire to be like and who inspires you at present?
I aspire to be a great technical draughts person. I’ve always been inspired by illustrators such as Arthur Rackham, Aubrey Beardsley and slightly more obscure illustrators such as Kay Nielsen and Jan Toorop. All influential artists at the turn of the 20th century, their art tied into the arts and crafts and art nouveau movements, perhaps my favourite era in art.

Where do you see yourself in 5 years from now?
In five years from now, I see myself teaching art. I’ve been lucky to have great art teachers and feel like in the future I want to be able to inspire and encourage young people to take up art.

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What advice would you give to someone trying to get into the Art?
Above all my advise to people wishing to take up art is to work hard on your basic art skills, such as colour theory, life drawing and observational drawing.

Do you have a muse and if so why?
My work is strongly emotionally focused. Sometimes my work can be literally depictive of my life events. However most of the time I use theatrical narratives to inspire me in conjunction with my emotional state of mind. I guess that life is my muse.

Stephen Jones is one of the fashion world’s greatest living milliners. His collections span the last three decades and he has collaborated with the majority of fashion heavyweights, price including John Galliano, website like this Rei Kawakubo and Vivienne Westwood.

At the V&A until May, Jones presents one of the first major exhibitions entirely and hopelessly devoted to hats, spanning headgear’s illustrious history over the past 400 years. Every type of head decoration is covered: the cloche, the cap, the head-dress, the beret, the visor, the cartwheel, the bonnet, the top, the stetson, the toque, the breton, the turban, the tricone, the hood, the mask, the tiara, the fedora, the fez… you get the idea.

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The exhibition aims to chart the history of hats and hopes to provoke a revival for fashionable, often whimsical head gear. It begins with a display cabinet devoted to the two hat world staples – the bonnet and the top hat – and features Queen Victoria’s former and Prince Albert’s latter. From here, we’re led around the recently renovated Porter Gallery (fashion fans will have seen the disappointing Fashion Vs Sport exhibition here in 2008). Three sections in the exhibition space reveal hats collected together by inspiration, material or client. In theory, this should work – hats of similar materials and processes can be viewed together ranging as far back as the 15th century alongside hats from the last ten years including, predominantly, those by Jones. In practice, the exhibition is a bit of a mess. There’s actually no feeling of history (apart from a few delicious clips from the 50s during the great Salon days). It’s easy to appreciate the beauty and splendour of each hat but hard to get a feel of how things have developed and progressed.

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In the Inspiration area, hats are grouped together by what has aroused particular designs to create these pieces. There’s London – which includes Piers Atkinson’s reworking of 3 New Era caps tailored to appear like Mickey Mouse ears and aptly titled Dalston. Yawn. There’s Jones’ ‘Underground’ hat that takes the form of a pillar-box hat, where the body is the tube emblem and the elastic fasteners are coloured lines like those of the public transport system. I swear this is the only exhibition ever where you’ll find a Smiffy’s plastic policeman’s helmet (2008) given the same prestige as a 1987 Harris Tweed crown (by Jones for Vivienne Westwood).

For materials, Jones collects hats together to depict how the same material has been used in varying ways over the centuries. This is alluring, but it’s easy for the eye to wander to the more striking pieces from the modern era and miss the qualities of more traditional pieces.

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The Client area doesn’t give much away either, but does include a good collection of hats popularised by celebrity culture and has a voyeuristic feel rather than a studious one. There’s headgear from the hat-wearing contemporaries – JK of Jamiroquai, Sarah Jessica Parker, Camilla Parker Bowles, Erin O’ Connor and Kylie Minogue.

Wonderfully, Jones dedicates a corner of the exhibition to today’s up and coming and established milliners. This small collective with a similar base to that of Jones and Treacy (St Martins graduates, mainly) aim to push the boundaries of millinery even further. There’s Nasir Mazher’s stunning chiffon and satin veil, Justin Smith’s Winehouse-inpired ‘Amy’ creation, and Soren Bach’s pom-pom ensemble famously worn by Björk.

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Hats are displayed atop mannequin heads on poles as high as 6′ – with the number of that hat at the bottom. This might work when cross referencing the hats to the information in the gallery by oneself – a luxury any of us are likely to enjoy. Instead, it’s a constant battle to fight past fellow viewers to find the corresponding card (that is, after you’ve found the bloody number of that hat all the way down). There’s also a distinct lack of imagery to accompany the pieces – our appetites are only slightly satisfied by a tiny slide show of photographs of celebrities from the last decade. It’s also a shame that 95% of the hats are on heads alone – to chart the history and recognise a particular hat’s authority and cultural position it would have occasionally been nice to see a hat presented with clothing from the time (particularly with designer collaborations where the piece has inspired the collection, or vice versa).

See Hats… if you can. It’s a fantastic exhibition which presents what can often be overlooked as a statement piece for any man or woman’s wardrobe. It’s a shame that practical layout has taken a back-seat to make way for over-aesthetic and pretentious exhibition design, but this shouldn’t put you off exploring the splendour of all things hats.
Arriving at the Gagosian on the outskirts of Mayfair feels a bit of a three-way clash. I’m a little scruffy and philosophical-looking today, buy the gallery’s doorman is impeccably dressed with one hammerhead eye out the window looking for any limousined celebs he might open the door to… and then there is the work. Approaching a Haruki Murakami is always a bracing experience. You can never have chewed enough bubblegum, try played enough video games or collected enough Pokemon cards that you might feel you belong in front of a work like Lots, cost Lots of KaiKai and Kiki. Yet, aieeeee!!!!: Here I am.

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The first thing that strikes me about this is that it’s an all-over painting, similar in size and shape to a Pollock. It’s as if Pollock’s paint-stick ejaculations had each germinated into a Kiki or a KaiKai (Murakami’s two principal anime-style protagonists – a cute bunny-eared thing and a kooky tri-clops bundle of mischief). Lavender Mist gone Manga, there are well over a hundred faces here. Not one of them is merely here, however. Each is vying for my attention. Either throwing a cuddly grin at me, pulling a smug smile at me, lunging a bewildered face at me, snorting at me, shouting, screaming and going la-de-da-de-da at me. Always, intensely, insanely at me, at me, at me. The smiley flowers in the background are a little less so, but not much.

There’s either too much or not enough purity in this. Sure, it’s a haribo-overdose headache, a million cartoons at once and, of course, Murakami is a canny capitalist industry now, with a marketing department that would make Benetton long for the golden years. But it’s nice, too. You can really just melt into the superficiality of it all. For a while, I wondered if some of the grimaces on Kiki’s face were chastising the toon-world for it’s bondage, forcing innocent toon-babies to be sugar-buzzingly hyper-kerrazy all the time, but I don’t think so. If Murakami’s embrace of the Hello Kitty and Pikachu universe was ever partly sarcastic, it’s not easy to see that anymore. Especially in the show’s animated video piece. Aside from one character declaring that the city in the sky is “a little clichéd”, some remarks about Yin and Yang and the big monster’s crescendo of farting and pooping, this could be on any of the more ADHD kid’s TV channels right now. In fact, even with those things, it would get on Toonami I suspect. Oh, and the animation is just as slick as the painting, i.e. very, very, eyes-glazed-over slick.

Which is when I decide to get down to The Hayward, to try and re-elevate my IQ. The Russian Linesman is a pretty cerebral show about, so says the subtitle, Frontiers, Borders and Thresholds, curated by Mark Wallinger. Now, here’s a chap hitherto obsessed with class division and racehorses. Also, it seems, a chap who doesn’t like to be pigeonholed. Not a sign of class warfare anywhere. And there’s even a drawing by George “I draw horses” Stubbs – and it’s of a human skeleton. What a tease! So, if the subtitle doesn’t allude to class barriers and finishing lines, then what?

Whatever the answer, it must be a sign of a healthy art culture when artists don’t feel forever bound to their established gimmicks. Oh, the nailbiting back when Gary Hume gave up painting doors. There’s none of that fear here, and eclecticism is happily the show’s most obvious feature. A Durer engraving faces three stretches of conceptual twine by Fred Sandback, James Joyce’s disembodied voice recites part of Finnegan’s Wake next to a Blake, while a ballerina dances on a projected video loop round the corner. In my favourite leg of the show hangs a masterful 17th Century painting of a dead soldier, thought once to be a Velázquez. The wall on which it hangs forms part of Monika Sosnowska’s Corridor, one of those rare conceptual pieces which will have you laugh out loud and have a conversation with the laugher behind you. I really must resist spoiling the joke for you, simple as it is, but Escher would have loved it.

The centrepiece is Wallinger’s own Time And Relative Dimensions In Space, which is a full-sized polished-steel mirror replica of Dr. Who’s T.A.R.D.I.S, from which it gets the profound-sounding title. This is a thing of stunning beauty.

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Part of the gag, by the way, is that as you try to look “into” it, you see an art gallery, yourself, artworks, people, thus it’s… you’ve guessed it kids, “bigger on the inside than on the outside”. Sort of. There’s something about the way the geometry of the room continues through it, that makes it kind of invisible, as though halfway through a sci-fi disappearance special effect (after all, it brings no colours of its own to the room, or geometric discontinuities or bends) but it”s also garishly, chunkily, heavily there. And the punters flock to this one. Wallinger has wisely not put anything too attention-grabbing near it, and it’s the magnet of the show. It’s also just after halfway through, so if you’ve been scratching your head a lot, wondering what’s going on, you can check that your hair’s not too badly messed up on the Tardis. Dead handy.

History creeps into the show quite a bit. Anglo-Germanic relations are central to the show’s title (the Russian linesman being the chap who decided that England’s dodgy 1966 World Cup-winning goal against West Germany was legit, allegedly admitting later that Hitler’s bloody march on Stalingrad in 1943 helped him decide). And a wall full of stereoscopic viewfinder images (how fun!) presents us firstly with the Nazi War Effort (oh…), and ends up with our own Teutonic Queen, greeting Nigerian subjects in the 1950s. Plenty of loose ends there. More impressive, however, is Ronald Searle’s set of drawings showing his experiences in Burma in the Second World War. It’s a bit of a jar perhaps, to have these painful and violent images so close to the fun of Corridor or the Tardis, but maybe that’s just another threshold to cross?

There are many ways that borders, etc come into the show. Political borders that divide people and send them to war, between reality and illusion, lines drawn between species, and poetics-of-space type boundaries, but I don’t think it’s necessary to try and see this as a coherent body of work. It’s a bric-a-brac feast, and better for it. It’s Wallinger the artist-as-curator, but, as the gallery makes clear from the outset, also curator-as-artist. The Russian Linesman is his scrapbook, providing a good deal of fresh insight into his ideas and interests. It may not all fit inside the boundaries imposed but it looks like a decent goal to me.

Murakami is at the Gagosian Davies St, 17-19 Davies St, London, W1K 3DE. The Russian Linesman is at The Hayward Gallery, Southbank Centre, Belvedere Rd, London SE1 8XX. Don’t forget your bubblegum.
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What better way to unwind after a hard day grafting in the big smoke then to retreat back to that quintessential British past time knitting. I think everyone has a fond recollection of their grandma’s knitted jumpers, approved although maybe not appreciated fully at the time.

I knit is a both a sanctuary, page shop and club for avid knitters to retreat to amidst the city hustle. They hold special groups on both Wednesday and Thursday evenings at there shop in Waterloo from 6pm and all for free. With a fully licensed bar what perfect way to juxtapose cultures then with a pint in one hand and a knitting needle in the other! The group have also fused another nostalgic past time into their events, case they hold a Sunday Knit Roast every month, so its knitting with all the trimmings!

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For those complete novices out there, never fear, the group host classes every week to accommodate every level of expertise. From the basics, to the outright bizarre. The weird techniques class takes place on the 7th of March, and includes innovative new methods such as knitting backwards and cabling without a needle, to name but a few.

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Of particular interest to myself was the knit fix class, I am sure the best of us have felt that sense of exasperation when they have dropped a stitch and were not in the slightest bit sure of how to retrieve it. This class will take place on Saturday the 14th of March.Then for the more accomplished knitter there is lace knitting, advanced sock knitting and raglan sweater classes to boot. All workshops start from around £30 pounds and are roughly 3 hours long.

So get your knitting needles at the ready as I knit is a event not to be missed!

Tuesday 3rd March, ask

FrYars

FrYars is the chosen moniker of Ben Garrett, a 19 year old Londoner with a shed-load of talent and the vision and ambition to match. A haunting singer and inspired songwriter.

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Image by Rick Pushinsky

Hoxton Hall, London

www.myspace.com/fryars

Fanfarlo, Yucatan, IVAN CAMPO

Beautiful Wonky Pop from Brit Based Sweethearts Fanfarlo with Support from the mezmerizing Yucatan and Ivan Campo. Coincides with their BBC 6 Music session with Marc Riley.

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The Deaf Institute, Grosvenor Street, Manchester

www.fanfarlo.com

www.myspace.com/yucatanambyth

www.myspace.com/ivancampo

Wednesday 4th March

Shooting Spires

Neo-soul / Live Electronics / Minimalist are on the menu for anyone going to see Shooting spires at Retro bar, Manchester Wednesday. Shooting Spires is the side project of BJ Warshaw of Parts and Labor so expect heart wrenching keyboard melodies with bruising drum thumps.

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Retro Bar, Manchester

www.shootingspires.com

Thursday 5th March

One step more and you die

One of the best Club nights in Manchester. Expect all the usual noises from the likes of Nick Cave, The Jesus & Mary Chain, The Thermals, LCD Soundsystem, Nirvana, Sonic Youth, Low, Fugazi, Do Make Say Think, Mew, Appleseed Cast, My Bloody Valentine, King Crimson, Mogwai, Arcade Fire, Spacemen 3, The Birthday Party, Idlewild, The Pixies, Smashing Pumpkins, Pavement, Efterklang, Aphex Twin, M83, 13th Floor Elevators, Cave In, Bjork, Tortoise, David Bowie, Deerhoof, Battles, Slint and many more.

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Tiger Lounge, 5 Cooper Street Manchester M2 2FW

www.myspace.com/onestepmore

Alessi’s Ark

When she and her compadres lay on the strings her songs assume a poppy lushness that is quite captivating. An English take on Americana.

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Image courtesy of DAVID BEECH www.davidbeech.co.uk

McClusty’s, Kingston

www.myspace.com/alessisark

Crazy P

Downtempo, Electronic act formed in 1995, playing a consistently good mix of chill out electronica for more than a decade.

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www.crazyp.co.uk

Friday 6th March

Noah And The Whale

Deep dulcet tones over the sweetest melodic strings come together in Noah and the Whale. Enviably intelligent Alt. Folk with a mix of Silver Jews and Tom Waits.

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www.noahandthewhale.com

Upset the rhythm Party w/ Wavves & Pens

Lo-fi noise-pop musician Nathan William, AKA Wavves embarks on a European tour, which began March the first at Glasgow’s Nice N Sleazy. Support comes from Pop Punk, Thrash all girl combo Pens.

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Wavves allows some of his music to be downloaded free from http://rcrdlbl.com/artists/Wavves/music

www.myspace.com/wavves

Frankmusik + DJs Tits Of Death + Skill Wizard

Up and coming ‘Blade Runner’ pop cavalier Frankmusik (real name Vincent Frank) headlines the March installment of On The Up at The Barfly London. In conjunction with his revolutionary and completely interactive tour promoted by Channel 4 and MySpace.

Barfly, London

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www.frankmusik.com

Saturday 7th March

North sea Radio Orchestra

North Sea Radio Orchestra is a unique chamber group who perform music of beauty and originality that has, at its heart, lyricism and melodic richness. Featuring wind, strings, percussion, guitars, organs and voices. They live in a world cushioned by melody and harmony.

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www.myspace.com/northsearadioorchestra

Sunday 8th March

London Word Festival

London’s only alternative literate-arts festival is back. Sunday’s event is co-headlined by Bishi and Lupen Crook. Look out for more events in the following week including a gig with Wave Machines and Serafina Steer.

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Bardens Boudoir

www.londonwordfestival.com
2nd – 7th March
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02 March –Talk –“ Energy, information pills Water and Climate Security: Clean Power From Deserts.:”
6.30pm
London School of Economics, tadalafil Houghton Street
London WC2A 2AE

Dr. Gerry Wolff and Dr. Michael Mason discuss the DESERTEC concept (a proposed large scale solar power project) at the LSE.
Admission Free. Call 020 7405 7686 for more details.

03 March -“The Great African Scandal” film screening and panel discussion. 7.00 – 9.00pm
25 Harlesden High Street
London, cheapest NW10 4NE

As part of Fairtrade Fortnight, the Harlesden Methodist Church will be screening the hard hitting film on trade justice, “The Great African Scandal”. Also on hand will be speakers from the Fairtrade Foundation, Divine Chocolate, as well as residents of countries who grow Fairtrade products. Stick around for the evening, and you will be able to sample Ghanian refreshments which will be provided for all attending.

Contact Robin Sharp for further details on 0208 969 0381.

04 March
Talk – “The Future of Water”
8.45 pm
RSC Environmental Chemistry Group

This symposium and guest lecture covers the scientific, financial and governmental drivers for water trading.

Cost £25.00 for members/ £50 for non members.
Call 020 8267 4011 for further details. Tickets can be purchased on www.haymarkets.com, and go to “Events”

05 March
1pm
Event. Climate Rush says “Give Us Our Money Back! And Stop Trashing The Planet
Royal Bank of Scotland HQ
280 Bishopgate, London
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Climate Rush are off to the bank to demand OUR money back from Sir Fred the Shred. We might have a flashmob on our hands. Come along and join us!
Contact www.climaterush.co.uk for more details.

05 March
Tackling climate change at a time of economic downturn: Local, national and international action

7:30-9:30pm
Unitarian Church
39a Newington Green
N16 9PR

Hackney Green Party will be hosting a public meeting this time next week, at which Jean Lambert MEP will be talking alongside Hackney councillor Mischa Borris, Robin Webster of Friends of the Earth and Phil Thornhill of the Campaign Against Climate Change.

Full details can be found on the HGP website here:
http://hackney.greenparty.org.uk/news/154

07 March
11.00am -4.00pm
Ealing Fairtrade Fortnight Fair

Christ The Saviour Church Hall
Ealing Broadway, W5

As part of Fairtrade fortnight, this church in Ealing is putting on a Fairtrade fair. On hand will be stalls of fairly traded food, drink, clothes, accessories, crafts and homewares, featuring goods from People Tree, Traidcraft and Fair Gift. For the more fashion conscious, there will be a Fairtrade fashion parade, and if you are feeling peckish, you can make yourself a smoothie courtesy of the Fairtrade smoothie bike.

Check out http://www.davethosting.co.uk/clientarea/EalingFairtrade// for more details.
Can it be that in this cynical heart a glimmer of hope can still be dwindled from otherwise dull embers? If so then If anyone is going to do it then it’s raunchy Disco Pop from the irresistible chiselled jaw form of Frankmusik who although may not be so familiar to you now believe me he soon will be. He’s set to take 2009 from behind, price pinching the life out of your hips, pharmacy sending you screaming into next year.

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The single is an effervescent ‘Blade Runner’ pop (as he calls it) jaunt with a twist of Daft Punk that sounds very studio honed and sleekly produced but in fact is created at home on a mac by the man behind the pseudonym, Vincent frank, aged 23. For the past few years he’s been in touch with his fans via his myspace but now has taken that further into the realms of technological wizardry by setting up a link from his GPS mobile (whatever that is) to a live google map which lets fans know exactly where he is on his tour.

Every night of the tour a two man production team who are filming his adventures will upload a daily ‘highlights’ show exclusively to the Frankmusik MySpace – www.myspace.com/frankmusik. Sponsored by Channel 4 and Myspace this tour will really be the first of its kind and if you want to get involved with someone hot go check it out now.

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If the single isn’t enough to grab, and I’m positive it will, then the prospect of a reality, live music melange on Channel 4 and on www.frankmusik.com will be.

See www.frankmusik.com for more information
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This Saturday saw an athletic and eager bunch converge at various locations in the east for the 6 Billion ways event. All propelled by the same willingness for change, online the day hosted a myriad of debates and workshops to explore the sources and solutions to global crisies. I marched down to Rich Mix on Bethnal Green road to investigate and was satisfied to see a crowd spilling onto the streets when I arrived. The event had brought out a refreshing spectrum of people, case from the keen youngsters to the avid adults.

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I hot-footed down to the Amnesty International hall for the “G20 and beyond” session (for more information on what the G20 is click here). It was an awe inspiring sight to see so many fundamental groups assembled for one sole purpose. Representatives were from the groups Climate Camp, approved People and Planet, along with the CND, and Put People First. The debate echoed a resounding voice of solidarity with the various organisations planning mass campaigns in the next few months to drive the need for Green new deals. Put People First are holding a mass march to highlight the worldwide need for climate justice on the 28th of this month which will kick start at Temple on the Embankment and in true traditional style the Salvation Army will be supplying a brass band for the romp through central London!

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The grass roots organisation Climate Camp are this year choosing to highlight how our failing economic system is inextricably linked to our failing environmental systems. To propel the importance of change the group are orchestrating Climate Camp on April the 1st at the European Climate Exchange to highlight the folly of relying on carbon trading to solve Climate Change. The day before the G20 rolls into town the group will be hailing the failures of a market-based system that expects ‘business continued as usual’ to sort out the mess we are in. The Camp will take place for 24 hours and include camping, workshops, and creative debates to encourage ideas and solutions to take direct action in tackling the crisis.

As part of the Fossil Fools Day campaign which will be taking the globe by storm, in London we will see the Royal Bank of Scotland targeted by student organisation People and Planet. Since the economic downturn and the banking crisis RBS have gone into public ownership, so this is prime time for change – allowing us more power with which to lobby the government, a chance to rewrite the global financial system and push for a Green New Deal.

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CND, which is abbreviated from the title ” Campaign for Nuclear Disarmament” is fueled by a desire for peace, and are rallying against the excessive costs of war and arms programs as a intrinsic link to our global crisis . A demonstration will be held on Wednesday the 1st of April in Trafalgar Square, with the simple slogan of “make jobs, not bombs”. This will be followed by a second demonstration on the 2nd at the Excel centre where the G20 is being held.

G20 meltdown are a loose collective of groups who have mobilised to protest against the capitalist system; responsible for the financial mess we are in, as well as Climate Chaos. At 12 noon campaigners will descend on the Bank of England from four different directions of the city with the slogan “we can’t pay, we wont pay”, aimed at the bankers whose greed many see as responsible for the current global financial and ecological crisis.

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The session saw forcible support from the crowd, who were eager to agree about the need for cohesive action to make a difference. Many are heralding this the “year of change”. Let’s hope that it can be, for it is highly doubtful that our ‘leaders’ at the G20 are capable of anything more than business as usual, shoring up the crumbling financial markets with yet more of the same. We need to show them that another world is possible, so put April 1st in your diary now!

Illustrations supplied by Brenda Goodchild
Here at Amelia’s Magazine we are keen to get our mits on glistening new talent, there and 2nd year illustration student at Middlesex University Holly Trill is no exception. Her illustrations evoke a distinctly ethereal and quixotic air. Beautifully intricate they draw influence from ancient mythology and botany.

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I was eager to delve into the mind set of this talented individual, online so I decided to call an interview with the lovely lady herself and hop footed down to the tranquil realms of bar 1001 for a chat.

What would you say inspires your work?

I guess I am very interested in folk stories and mythology. In the same respect I am very driven by aesthetics in all my work.I want to create a sense of ephemera, of recording and cherishing the cyclical nature of the seasons.


What mediums do you like to use?

I create my pieces mainly using inks, pens and stitch. I also inject alot of multimedia into my work to give it a three dimensional edge.

There seems a direct link to nature in your work would you agree with this?

I am really interested in the beauty of the natural world. In particular the intricate details not always obvious to the naked eye, such as the veins in leaves and the texture in the fur.

What other artists have inspired you?

I love the work of Illustrator Deanne Cheuk ,her work evokes a very ethereal feel which I love. Another artist I like is photographer Ori Gershi, his work explores personal space and orgins. His latest exhibiton at the CRG gallery is a must see.

Have you been to any exhibitions that have inspired you recently?

I haven’t really been to any exhibitions recently but I went to the Hunterian Museum which is at the Royal College of surgeons. I am fascinated by formaldehyde, I really want my work to portray objects with accuracy so it was great to look at skeletal formations up close.

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So after a frothing cappuccino and a delightful chin with Holly, you get an overwelming sense of her passion for her illustrations and at 20 she already has her own website in full flow http://hollytrill.co.uk/.As an avid fan myself I think its safe to say this will not be the last you hear from Holly Trill. So watch this space…………………..
After leaving Amelia’s magazine HQ in Brick Lane I travel down to New Cross to see Sarah Rowles, view director of Q-Art London, in her studio. That’s because not only has Sarah successfully arranged four cross college convenors, two group gallery visits and written and printed a book, but she’s also a second year Fine Art student at Goldsmiths University. Phew it makes me exhausted just thinking about it!

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Can you explain a little bit about Q-Art London?

It is a forum for student and graduates from across London art schools such as Wimbledon and Goldsmiths, all of them are on our website. We come together for people to be able to show work and critically discuss the work of other students. It means you can network across a group of people you wouldn’t necessarily hang around with.

So what the heck is a convenor?

Essentially six or seven artists from across the different art schools and levels each speak for about five minutes and then have about twenty minutes to discuss. The format is quite free.

What motivated you to set this whole thing up?

There has been a lot of course cuts in arts departments and it was wanting to have a bit more teaching time I guess. Another factor was that at the degree shows last year there were all these graduates saying “I don’t have anywhere to show” they were all a bit annoyed that now there was nowhere with them to talk about their work. I know when I leave I would like this platform set up for me to be able to show work.
Also when I was applying to art school there was all this myths that each of the art schools were really different and I wanted to dispel that.

Have you found that was a myth or do you think there are similarities in the work of students from the same institutions?

Different people have different views but you can see different trends emerging, they’re not rigid. It might be coincidence but so far Slade has been quite painterly and sculptural. I don’t think Q-Art London has been running long enough at the moment to make those judgements. I think people who come to the events draw there own conclusions.

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How can people get involved in Q-Art London?

Going on to our website is the easiest way, because you can subscribe and we will send you the events list. You can come to any of the events by emailing your name and the name of your college or former college. If you want to present then email me and say that you want to present and I will send you a form.

What kinds of people have been showing at the events?

Foundation to BA, MA, PHD and graduates so far. I’ve also had two none practice based people show things from their PHD, which was interesting. This year it has been on a first come first served basis, because the idea was that the group would critically discuss the artwork and that wasn’t for me to decide. But because the demand has been huge and I have a waiting list of people I think it might have to be selected to create more of a balance in the future.

Can you tell me about the book?

The book is called 12 Gallerists: 20 Questions. When I came to Goldsmiths in the syllabus it said that you had a make a challenge to contemporary art and I thought. What is contemporary art? I interned at different art galleries and Zoo Art Fair and I thought how are they evaluating any of this work? What’s all this stuff here? Who are all these people with money? What’s going on? I just didn’t understand any of the arts market so the idea was to try and find out. So I started to interview some people that I already knew and some other gallerists I was interested in. I started off by going to see Chris at MOT with this massive list of questions. Things like: How do you price work? How did you pick your artists? The questions were of all these important things that you have no idea about. Hopefully it comes through in the book that it starts by knowing nothing and then at the end you have quite a clear idea.

I know you’re a very busy lady so what’s next for Q-Art London?

So we have the Slade event on the 25th and the next event in April. This year what has happened is that everybody who has presented at one of the convenors is going to be in an exhibition at APT Gallery from 2nd – 4th of July. We’re trying to put criticality back into the market place so at the ATP event there is going to be a collectors forum which is going to work in the same way as the convenors. Collectors are going to be invited to ask the artists questions so there will be a lot more transparency about why the artist is being evaluated as a good artist.

Having accomplished so much in a year I don’t think this is the last time we’ll be talking to this busy lady! For more details on Q-Art London events, or to buy the book visit their website.

Have you ever had one of those mornings where absolutely nothing seems to work cohesively in your wardrobe. Stripping from one outfit to another with brief intervals to engulf your bowl of cereal?. I think I am not a sole veteran of this constant handicap. Well never fear, site our savour comes in the form of self professed style hunter Yvan Rodick. Style hungry he prowls the globe in search of innovative street style which he records day to day on his blog.So forget Vogue and its counterparts as your source of hot new style. Look no further then this gentleman, sildenafil he supplies a rich catalogue of ideas and champions the must innovative in diy fashion design. His extensive travels taken him all the way from Antwerp to Istanbul and every nook and cranny in between. Just imagine how impressive his passport must be, ask I am extremely jealous!

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So log on and let face hunter get your stylistic juices flowing.

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2011: What is everybody wearing?!


Illustrations by Yelena Bryksenkova.

The Orla Kiely presentation gets more popular every year and I’m sure it’s not just because they always have pastries there, tadalafil doctor no matter what time of day – our lovely illustrators were keen to draw her collection too and we didn’t even give them pastries. This year Orla dispensed with models entirely in favour of just having people who offer you food, for sale i.e. they’re playing to their strengths. Cardboard cutouts of the cute, this web preppy frocks are there but take a back seat – in fact I almost forgot to take any photographs of them but funnily enough took lots of the retro tubs of popcorn constantly on hand.

Eating the pastries turned out to be a rookie mistake as I instantly sugar crashed and was later found by a colleague slumped over in the press room using a bag of crisps as a pillow. But before I slipped into a sugar coma, I vaguely remember watching a video presentation (which you can watch here) that takes the very orange-and-brown-print 1970s style of Orla Kiely back a decade to the 1960s, specifically Swinging Sixties London.

It’s made by Gia Coppola, who is indeed related to those other Coppolas, although the vid is much more jaunty than The Virgin Suicides or The Godfather. Actually I haven’t seen those films (I know, GASP) but I’m guessing they are a tad more intense than a video of a smiling blonde lady running around town in miniskirts. Correct me if I’m wrong though.

I was underwhelmed by the video presentation to be honest but it doesn’t dent my love for Orla. In a season where everything is once again colourful and sweet as a cupcake on a stick (yes, they had these – whose amazing idea was it to put it on a stick?) I think the wave of appreciation for Orla has reached its frothy, bubbly apex and the label is being seen as less twee and more wearable by fashion types. It’s definitely for girly girls and you wouldn’t find one of its collared dresses or frilled bikinis in the same wardrobe as anything from Hannah Marshall, but variety is the spice of life and if everyone wore clothing inspired by the insides of squid etc. it wouldn’t look cool anymore so really the edgy people should be grateful to us. But ARE they? No.

Illustration by Krister Selin

Charles Anastase S/S 2011 collection saw a return to form after A/W saw the designer labours with last year’s experiment with deconstruction achieve mixed results – some were fantastic – where as others were clearly a struggle. This season saw a return to the pieces Anastase so exceeds at, and delicately polka dotted dresses were complete with Peter Pan collars.

Illustration by Krister Selin

For the dresses and skirts the designer experimented with hems of a varying length, shop none of which rose higher than the knee. A sense of femininity was maintained through the fit of the longer skirts, ambulance the modern bob and pretty pleats which adorned the sheer dresses.

Illustration by Krister Selin

A favourite piece was the dresses which came adorned in the Paul Klee style print which adorned the invite.

The colours remained blocky – a purple t-shirt adorned white trousers.

Drop hems and exaggerated collars.

Jaquard made is second apparence in an intriguing playsuit and ankle skimming trousers.


Weird glasses rabbit girl, sildenafil illustrated by Maria del Carmen Smith

The international fashion press often remark that fashion journalists come to London to see what the people on the street are wearing rather than what the models on the catwalks are wearing – and so with tremedous pleasure I present to you a (small) selection of peeps who I’ve spotted out and about so far. Some weird, sildenafil some wonderful. Some go for understated chic. I like. Some appear to have got dressed in the dark and warrant the NHS installing mirrors in all bedrooms. I like even more. I’ve also thrown a few celebs in for good measure.

Here you go! (Plays trumpet)

Love it:

Elle’s Alistair Guy:

LOVE this guy’s look. Oh, patient hang on a minute…

The rough one from the Sugababes (who actually looked gorge):

I like this guy’s scarf, a lot:

My pal, Hilary Alexander:

LOVE Brix: (but my love is conditional and if that fur is real, good riddance) It’s not fur! Thank you, Brix!


Weird pirate boy, last seen at the opening of 123 Bethnal Green Road, illustrated by Maria del Carmen Smith

This gal makes her own hats. Evidently:

Brix today:

These are both men.

Love this trousers:

A vision in blue:


Super chic girl, illustrated by Maria del Carmen Smith

LOVE this:

Oh pal. It looked so much better as a scarf. You wally.

SO chic:

What better way to finish than with a pic of Suzy Menkes, OBE? I LOVE her and her trademark pompadour do. I would do anything to give her a little squeeze.

Categories ,Alistair Guy, ,Brix Smith Start, ,Hilary Alexander, ,London Fashion Week, ,Maria del Carmen Smith, ,Papped, ,S/S 2011, ,streetstyle, ,Style, ,Suzy Menkes, ,Weird, ,Wonderful

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2011: What is everybody wearing?!


Illustrations by Yelena Bryksenkova.

The Orla Kiely presentation gets more popular every year and I’m sure it’s not just because they always have pastries there, tadalafil doctor no matter what time of day – our lovely illustrators were keen to draw her collection too and we didn’t even give them pastries. This year Orla dispensed with models entirely in favour of just having people who offer you food, for sale i.e. they’re playing to their strengths. Cardboard cutouts of the cute, this web preppy frocks are there but take a back seat – in fact I almost forgot to take any photographs of them but funnily enough took lots of the retro tubs of popcorn constantly on hand.

Eating the pastries turned out to be a rookie mistake as I instantly sugar crashed and was later found by a colleague slumped over in the press room using a bag of crisps as a pillow. But before I slipped into a sugar coma, I vaguely remember watching a video presentation (which you can watch here) that takes the very orange-and-brown-print 1970s style of Orla Kiely back a decade to the 1960s, specifically Swinging Sixties London.

It’s made by Gia Coppola, who is indeed related to those other Coppolas, although the vid is much more jaunty than The Virgin Suicides or The Godfather. Actually I haven’t seen those films (I know, GASP) but I’m guessing they are a tad more intense than a video of a smiling blonde lady running around town in miniskirts. Correct me if I’m wrong though.

I was underwhelmed by the video presentation to be honest but it doesn’t dent my love for Orla. In a season where everything is once again colourful and sweet as a cupcake on a stick (yes, they had these – whose amazing idea was it to put it on a stick?) I think the wave of appreciation for Orla has reached its frothy, bubbly apex and the label is being seen as less twee and more wearable by fashion types. It’s definitely for girly girls and you wouldn’t find one of its collared dresses or frilled bikinis in the same wardrobe as anything from Hannah Marshall, but variety is the spice of life and if everyone wore clothing inspired by the insides of squid etc. it wouldn’t look cool anymore so really the edgy people should be grateful to us. But ARE they? No.

Illustration by Krister Selin

Charles Anastase S/S 2011 collection saw a return to form after A/W saw the designer labours with last year’s experiment with deconstruction achieve mixed results – some were fantastic – where as others were clearly a struggle. This season saw a return to the pieces Anastase so exceeds at, and delicately polka dotted dresses were complete with Peter Pan collars.

Illustration by Krister Selin

For the dresses and skirts the designer experimented with hems of a varying length, shop none of which rose higher than the knee. A sense of femininity was maintained through the fit of the longer skirts, ambulance the modern bob and pretty pleats which adorned the sheer dresses.

Illustration by Krister Selin

A favourite piece was the dresses which came adorned in the Paul Klee style print which adorned the invite.

The colours remained blocky – a purple t-shirt adorned white trousers.

Drop hems and exaggerated collars.

Jaquard made is second apparence in an intriguing playsuit and ankle skimming trousers.


Weird glasses rabbit girl, sildenafil illustrated by Maria del Carmen Smith

The international fashion press often remark that fashion journalists come to London to see what the people on the street are wearing rather than what the models on the catwalks are wearing – and so with tremedous pleasure I present to you a (small) selection of peeps who I’ve spotted out and about so far. Some weird, sildenafil some wonderful. Some go for understated chic. I like. Some appear to have got dressed in the dark and warrant the NHS installing mirrors in all bedrooms. I like even more. I’ve also thrown a few celebs in for good measure.

Here you go! (Plays trumpet)

Love it:

Elle’s Alistair Guy:

LOVE this guy’s look. Oh, patient hang on a minute…

The rough one from the Sugababes (who actually looked gorge):

I like this guy’s scarf, a lot:

My pal, Hilary Alexander:

LOVE Brix: (but my love is conditional and if that fur is real, good riddance) It’s not fur! Thank you, Brix!


Weird pirate boy, last seen at the opening of 123 Bethnal Green Road, illustrated by Maria del Carmen Smith

This gal makes her own hats. Evidently:

Brix today:

These are both men.

Love this trousers:

A vision in blue:


Super chic girl, illustrated by Maria del Carmen Smith

LOVE this:

Oh pal. It looked so much better as a scarf. You wally.

SO chic:

What better way to finish than with a pic of Suzy Menkes, OBE? I LOVE her and her trademark pompadour do. I would do anything to give her a little squeeze.

Categories ,Alistair Guy, ,Brix Smith Start, ,Hilary Alexander, ,London Fashion Week, ,Maria del Carmen Smith, ,Papped, ,S/S 2011, ,streetstyle, ,Style, ,Suzy Menkes, ,Weird, ,Wonderful

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2011 Catwalk Review: Caroline Charles


Illustration by Gilly Rochester

It was Day 1 at Somerset House and I was surrounded by all those fashion bigwigs at Caroline Charles; sure to have just flown in first-class from the closing New York Fashion Week and before that whichever glamorous corner of the Earth they resided. The BFC Catwalk space, page therefore, kicked off with a sure-fire reminder of where we were; London. Just in case anyone forgot.


Illustration by Maria Papadimitriou

??It was all about the classic, home-comfort elements of good-old British style. You had your checks, your lace, your chiffon, your wool winter coats that your mother forced you in when you were young and now just can’t get out of.??

Most garments were intrinsically minimalistic. There was very little print. The fabric palette didn’t stretch too far and no real attempt towards a-symmetric cuts or daring features was made. Despite such profuse amounts of plain-Jane style, however, a subtle sexiness arose from those full-sequined dresses in bright red and sultry black as well as the odd combination of tiger and leopard print. It was bad taste turned classy.??


Illustration by Gilly Rochester

The collection’s silhouette held a strong focus on the waist with delicate belts cinching-in wool shift dresses and chiffon floaty creations. There was a barely a bold moment throughout the entire show but one thing was for sure: everything had style.
Furthermore (as has been featured countless times this season), bows were a primary focus for Charles. She placed them on bowler hats, made them out of black ribbon tied around the neck and pulled them round to the rear of high-waisted trousers.


Illustrations by Maria Papadimitriou

Some of the combinations of textures, however, were a little iffy for me. Black leather pencil skirts with brown lady-like jackets? It just didn’t click. I also wasn’t keen on the injection of equestrian riding hats and low pony-tails. It was oh-so-boring and that kind of look, for me anyway, completely lacks any sort of style or attitude. Perhaps a ploy made my yet-another designer to turn the head of Kate Middleton as the Royal Wedding approaches? Maybe so.


Photographs by Georgia Takacs

Amidst the elegant and some-what calming classical music, however, I was agitated by lady-with-hideous-hat who was inconveniently featured in most of my photographs. There was a bit of a frenzy around her and THE HAT after the show. I couldn’t begin to understand why and marched past indifferent and utterly confused.??

All in all, a largely predictable and collection from a classic London dress-maker. It’s endearing, however, to see a leading designer of 47 years to continue delivering a fail-safe iconic style which will forever be appreciated. And with so much sophisticated femininity around this Autumn/Winter season, it certainly set the scene for what was to come and offers a solid reference to anyone embracing ‘The Woman’ next season.

Categories ,A/W 2011, ,Autumn/Winter, ,Bows, ,british, ,Caroline Charles, ,catwalk, ,Gilly Rochester, ,Kate Middleton, ,ladylike, ,London Fashion Week, ,Maria Papadimitriou, ,review, ,Royal Wedding, ,Slowly the Eggs, ,Style, ,Womenswear

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Amelia’s Magazine | An Interview with Designer Joseph Turvey – Part 1


Joseph Turvey A/W 2013 by Krister Selin

While everybody else viewed next season’s collections at the A/W 2013 London Collections: Men shows in January, I spent the week on a rather tedious stint of jury service. For days I sat doing nowt, following the shows and presentations on my iPhone through the usual channels. Twitter, Facebook and Instagram went wild for the latest offerings and it was Joseph Turvey‘s incredible dalmatian-themed collection that I most enjoyed viewing at 640 pixels wide.


Joseph Turvey

Back in 2010 I saw Joseph present his BA graduate womenswear collection at Graduate Fashion Week. Inspired by Margaret Rutherford and complete with ethereal masks, it was a sharp, polished collection with elements of menswear tailoring. I interviewed Joe shortly afterwards; a brief, standard post-GFW interview. Joseph then contributed illustrations to Amelia’s Magazine (amongst many other publications). But it was during Ones to Watch A/W 2012, merging his illustrative style with his talent for tailoring and eye for experimental materials, that propelled him on to the menswear scene. Also, Beyoncé once touched his hand during a performance of Halo.


Joseph Turvey A/W 2013 by Dom&Ink

I meet Joe in the hip offices of Coffin on Cake PR – a labyrinth of rooms above Redchurch Street with all sorts of weird and wonderful objects adorning walls. Joe is waiting in the showroom at the end of a long corridor, with other brands overshadowed by his incredible S/S and A/W 2013 collections. On sight of the dalmatian print enveloping his latest designs, I leap towards it to finally see it in the flesh. I’ve met Joe before but I’d forgotten how tall he was. His gentle personality and new-found confidence are instantly infectious. I launch into a series of typical questions, surmounting the urge to chat about Beyoncé – that will have to wait.


Joseph Turvey A/W 2013 by youdesignme

When I ask him how his day has been, he tells me he’s been rushed off his feet and hasn’t stopped – photoshoots, meetings, and walking his beloved cockapoo. This takes us nicely into chatting about his current collection. ‘I’m obsessed with dogs,’ he tells me, ‘I’m surrounded by dog owners and I love the idea of dog owners dressing like their dogs.’ I ask about the A/W 2013 presentation that garnered so much attention. ‘I got obsessed with having dalmatian puppies at the show… they came up from Devon!’ he says. I play devil’s advocate and ponder what PETA might think. ‘They were very well looked after… they were on rotation, and they’re show dogs – one of the girl pups absolutely loved the attention!’.

Each collection has had a central figure as inspiration and it will come as no surprise to learn that this season’s was Cruella de Vil; the result, a slick collection featuring suiting, bombers, sweaters and t-shirts adorned with dalmatian print. The installation at the AW13 showcase was ‘intense’ – two hours of ‘hardcore’ attention and showmanship. He describes it as ‘overwhelming’ and ‘scary’ and remembers the drama, with hushed whispers of PRs introducing attendees and figures like Natalie Massenet checking things out.

Joe launched himself straight onto the MA at London College of Fashion after graduating from the University of Birmingham. It was a tutor there who commented on the masculine feel of his womenswear collections, and so he decided to move in that direction. I ask Joe if he’d like to return to womenswear. ‘You never know what’s going to happen’, he says, coyly, ‘I just want to make the menswear the best it can be.’

Part two to follow tomorrow!

Photography by Matt Bramford except images of A/W 2013 presentation – courtesy of Coffin on Cake PR.

Categories ,A/W’13, ,beyonce, ,Coffin on Cake PR, ,Cruella de Vil, ,Dalmatians, ,Dogs, ,interview, ,Joseph Turvey, ,Krister Selin, ,London Collections Men, ,Matt Bramford, ,menswear, ,Ones To Watch, ,puppies, ,SS13, ,Style, ,youdesignme

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Amelia’s Magazine | Open Brief: Design a Watch for Swatch Art Rules TTR World Snowboard Tour Competition 2012

Swatch Art Rules
Announcing a very exciting open brief that illustrators might want to check out: the Swatch Art Rules design competition is open to artists across the world, and offers a brilliant opportunity, not only to get your work emblazoned across an iconic watch, but also to travel to Los Angeles for the prize giving, and then to New York for two weeks on an all expenses paid holiday for two people (yes please!)

Swatch-Cristales-by-Marco-Fragozo-Mejia-of-Afghanistan
Cristales by Marco Fragozo Mejia of Afghanistan.

SHAPESHIFTER_Ricardo-Santos-of-Portugal-swatch
Shapeshifter, by Ricardo Santos of Portugal.

For the third time the competition is held in conjunction with the TTR World Snowboard Tour and the winning design will be featured on the 2012-13 trophy as well as on the matching Swatch Tour Watch, which will be distributed worldwide. The TTR trophy is one of the most coveted awards in the world of freestyle snowboarding, and is presented to the champions live on stage at all the biggest events in the sport.

Swatch Momentous Celebration by Peter Cheok of Malaysia
Momentous Celebration by Peter Cheok of Malaysia.

Swatch tour watch - things for live by Eduard Ganahi of Austria
Things for Life by Eduard Ganahi of Austria.

This year the theme for the watch is Progression and Style, which are both key elements of snowboarding. The jury of snowboarding experts is joined by Romain Colin, otherwise known as Fubiz – the acclaimed French blogger whom I met during my trip to Venice with Swatch late last year – who will judge the final designs alongside the supremely knowledgeable president of Swatch, Madame Emch. The top three nominees will also be invited to Los Angeles during May 2012, on a trip of a lifetime to discover which design will be unveiled as overall winner. I was also invited to LA to cover the event, but I am gutted because I will be too busy with my new baby to come along. I cannot tell you how jealous I will be! And I hope that at least one of my readers will be one of the lucky ones to make this trip.

SWATCH_Pixel Attitude by Joyce Liew of Singapore
Pixel Attitude by Joyce Liew of Singapore.

swatchTTR_trophy_Ice-and-Fire-Marco-Magni-from-Italy
Ice and Fire by Marco Magni of Italy.

It’s possibly a little known fact that I am a keen snowboarder – I spent three seasons working in the Austrian Alps during my 20s, and returned a few winters ago to snowboard the slopes of Val d’Isere. It’s one of my great loves – oh how I miss whooshing down those immense powder runs on a beautiful crisp morning – but even if you aren’t a snowboarder yourself this is a great opportunity to get involved with a fabulous brief that will give the winner worldwide exposure.

Swatch_TTR_Trophy_Design_surface pressure by benjamin brewis of the UK
Surface Pressure by Benjamin Brewis of the UK.

swatch-Colorhood by Marili Nikoli of Greece
Colorhood by Marili Nikoli of Greece.

I’ve included a few of the current entries here for your perusal – to see more examples of the entries that have already been received check out this link. You have just a few weeks in which to submit your designs, for the competition closes on March 27th 2012. If you are submitting some artwork then please also send your submissions to me (not just to me though, that would be a bad idea!) as I’d like to upload my favourites in a future blog post for all my readers to enjoy. I look forward to seeing your work online, and hopefully on the winning Swatch Tour Watch.

YouTube Preview Image
Watch a video about the choosing of the winning design in 2011 here. Last year Chi Fong Leong (a Central Saint Martins student) won, so what are you waiting for? Find out all you need to know at the Swatch Art Rules website.

Categories ,Benjamin Brewis, ,competition, ,Eduard Ganahi, ,Freestyle, ,Fubiz, ,Joyce Liew, ,Los Angeles, ,Madame Emch, ,Marco Fragozo Mejia, ,Marco Magni, ,Marili Nikoli, ,new york, ,Peter Cheok, ,Prize, ,Progression, ,Ricardo Santos, ,Romain Colin, ,Snowboarding, ,Style, ,Swatch, ,Swatch Tour Watch, ,TTR World Snowboard Tour, ,Val d’Isere, ,Venice

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Amelia’s Magazine | 100 Ideas That Changed Street Style: An interview with Josh Sims

100 Ideas That Changed Street Style by Josh Sims

100 Ideas That Changed Street Style is the new book from style guru Josh Sims, a charming fellow that I was lucky enough to first meet when I was just a lowly intern at The Face and Arena. Since those long ago days Josh has written for a diverse roster of publications, building up a well deserved reputation for his knowledge of fashion and style. This new book takes a look at how street styles have impacted the mainstream, helped to unite people, reinforced stereotypes and created social division, with text accompanied by iconic photography by the likes of Liz Johnson Artur. 100 Ideas That Changed Street Style is a must read for anyone intrigued by the way that fashion shapes society. Josh tells me more…

100 Ideas That Changed Street Style: An interview with Josh Sims

When and why did your obsession with street style begin?
I can’t say it’s an obsession – sounds unhealthy – but I’ve always been interested in the cultural subtext of certain men’s fashion, especially in the UK. I was an 80s Casual so that sense of membership through sartorial detail has always been there.

100 Ideas That Changed Street Style: An interview with Josh Sims

What particular styles are your favourites, and why?
Mod I think did much to define modern menswear, though it’s bastard offspring skinhead is more exacting and memorable. I have a soft spot for the Japanese women’s street styles – decora, Lolita, gangaro etc. Crazy stuff.

100 Ideas That Changed Street Style: An interview with Josh Sims

Photo by Startracks Photo/Rex Features.

Did you struggle to differentiate between elements of any styles, and if so which ones were they?
Yes, the Japanese ones above. To outsider eyes they seem to blur into a general wackiness, especially to westerners. You have to be on the inside to see what’s what with those.

100 Ideas That Changed Street Style: An interview with Josh Sims Halloween Horse

Halloween Horse.

Have any styles influenced your own way of dress, and how have these influences changed over the years?
Other than the classic British men’s sub cultures – mod, two tone, skin head, casual – I can’t say they have; especially after, ahem, a certain age. You find your own uniform and tend to stick with it I think, or at least men do. Perhaps that’s just laziness.

100 Ideas That Changed Street Style: An interview with Josh Sims Dancehall Girls

Dancehall Girls.

Where do the richest sources of street style spring up from?
You mean geographically? In which case probably America is ahead on that. Culturally many tend to be fed by a shared appreciation for a certain kind of music – or some influence outside of fashion at least. The clothes are just a reflection of a shared fandom really.

100 Ideas That Changed Street Style: An interview with Josh Sims

In your introduction you question whether the concept of street style can still exist in a globalised fast moving digital age. If so what could replace clothing as a signifier of belonging or individualism?
I thick clothing will still play a part – the point is that we’re more and more confident in cherry picking our influences and dressing as individuals. Styles may be less underground in the future, but they will at least be our own.

100 Ideas That Changed Street Style: An interview with Josh Sims NorthernSoul

Northern Soul.

Can you share with us any clues about what to expect from the next big street style, in clothing or otherwise?
One considered for the book but dropped is more current than future – it’s a kind of blend of heritage workwear and Americana in menswear. It’s been fairly niche for a few years but is now entering the mainstream.

100 Ideas That Changed Street Style: An interview with Josh Sims NorthernSoul

How has fatherhood altered or changed your approach to work and life?
Well as you know you end up with much less time and even less energy, so you have to work with greater efficiency. More positively still perhaps it gives you perspective – you realise what might be fascinating and fun but perhaps nowhere near as important as you perhaps thought it was. Like street styles for example. I think you’re just happier being yourself and less concerned about what strangers think of you – a concern that fashion is in part predicated on. Maybe that’s just being older…

100 Ideas That Changed Street Style- An interview with Josh Sims NorthernSoul - photo by Liz Johnson Artur

Photo by Liz Johnson Artur.

What are you working on next, do you have any sneak peaks you can share with us?
I wrote a book a while back called Icons of Men’s Style – about the history of the most important garments in the male wardrobe. So there’s a womenswear version of that on its way.

100 Ideas That Changed Street Style by Josh Sims is available now from Laurence King, priced £19.95.

Categories ,100 Ideas That Changed Street Style, ,book, ,fashion, ,Icons of Men’s Style, ,Josh Sims, ,Laurence King, ,Liz Johnson-Artur, ,review, ,Street Style, ,Style

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