Amelia’s Magazine | Tata Naka: London Fashion Week A/W 2013 Presentation Review

Tata Naka A/W 2013 by Daniel Alexander
Tata Naka A/W 2013 by Daniel Alexander.

Since Tata Naka returned to London Fashion Week it has become customary for Tamara and Natasha Surguladze to create a wonderful set that they photograph live for their upcoming season’s look book: it’s a great concept and always a lot of fun to watch from the sidelines: the whole experience more akin to voyeurism than the traditional catwalk show. This season the Georgian twins were inspired by American High School movies and the multitude of references that underpin these down the decades. So here we had very preppy 50s styles abutting up against the big bouffant hair of the 1980s, a very direct reference to which was found in the graffiti wall that provided the backdrop to one set up, ‘Breakfast Club‘ written in bubble writing above a heart. Sugary coloured tweeds were layered over stripes and trademark graphic prints that merged Mondrian blocks with Pop Art faces, the illustrative elements of which were inspired by iconic scenes from key 80s movies. As we milled around we were served cocktails in milk cartons by ‘dinner ladies’ courtesy of Bompas & Parr.

Tata Naka AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Tata Naka AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Tata Naka AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Tata Naka AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Tata Naka A/W 2013 by Rebecca French
Tata Naka A/W 2013 by Rebecca French.

In the locker room sweethearts covered a simple pencil dress, the detail echoed in a cute cut out back. An A-line skirt was worn with a baseball jacket: other girls wore big quiffs and pastel blocks, both tapered trousers and pencil skirts given sheer mesh slices at the hemlines. Sets were changed with alarming speed and confidence, but the downside of this way of showing is that unless you have an hour or so free you will only manage to see a small portion of the collection. I managed to see two set changes by Chameleon Visual: Jenny Robins took photos of the cheerleaders at the bleachers, and there was also a Prom shoot, where sweethearts emerged yet again as a major theme. The talented Tata Naka twins once more showcased their inventive A/W 2013 collection in wonderfully inimitable style. I have come to expect nothing less.

Tata Naka AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Tata Naka AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Tata Naka AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Tata Naka AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Tata Naka A/W 2013. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

Tata Naka by Jenny Robins
Tata Naka by Jenny Robins
Tata Naka A/W 2013 by Jenny Robins.

Tata Naka A/W 2013 by Cissy Hu
Tata Naka A/W 2013 by Cissy Hu.

Tata_Naka by_Daniel_Alexander
Tata Naka A/W 2013 by Daniel Alexander
Tata Naka A/W 2013 by Daniel Alexander
Tata Naka A/W 2013 by Daniel Alexander.

Categories ,1980s, ,50s, ,A/W 2013, ,American High School movies, ,Bompas & Parr, ,Breakfast Club, ,Chameleon Visual, ,Cheerleaders, ,Cissy Hu, ,Daniel Alexander, ,Georgian, ,Jenny Robins, ,London Fashion Week, ,Mondrian, ,Movies, ,Pop Art, ,Prom, ,Rebecca French, ,Tamara and Natasha Surguladze, ,Tata Naka

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Amelia’s Magazine | Teatum Jones: London Fashion Week A/W 2013 Presentation Review

Teatum Jones A/W 2013 by Laura Hickman
Teatum Jones A/W 2013 by Laura Hickman.

Teatum Jones have been wowing the Amelia’s Magazine reviewers with their well thought out presentations for the past few seasons, but this was my first turn at a one of their shows. In the past this design duo have showcased collections in the RSA and Liberty, but this season their venue was the incredibly posh Dorchester Hotel – think flower arrangements in the entrance hall the size of small trees.

Teatum Jones AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Teatum Jones AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Teatum Jones AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Teatum Jones A/W 2013 by Sylwia Szyszka
Teatum Jones A/W 2013 by Sylwia Szyszka.

Teatum Jones AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Teatum Jones AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Teatum Jones AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Teatum Jones AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Teatum Jones A/W 2013 by Cissy Hu
Teatum Jones A/W 2013 by Cissy Hu.

Guests were signed in then directed past an arrangement of fine teas and dainty biscuits into a wood lined and mirrored chamber, the centrepiece of which was a set arranged around a butterfly decorated chalkboard bookcase. The models rotated in groups of four, each replaced as the last one in the line up departed, in the kind of graceful dance that comes with great preparation and strict time keeping. Titled ‘To My Youth… How we Laughed in Darkness‘, this collection was inspired by Vladimir Nabokov, best known as the author of Lolita, a man who was obsessed with butterflies and the transience of beauty (his famous novel was written during an annual butterfly collecting trip in the western US).

Teatum Jones AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Teatum Jones AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Teatum Jones AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Teatum Jones AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Teatum Jones A/W 2013 by Laura Hickman
Teatum Jones A/W 2013 by Laura Hickman.

Models posed nonchalantly with open books, the covers artfully attired with the dominant print of the collection: large scale painterly splashes of red, indigo and forest green on a white ground. Designers Catherine Teatum and Rob Jones are renowned for their conceptual approach to fashion, so the story of Vladimir was translated into an array of beautiful garments using the finest fabrics, each of which was chosen for its part in that tale: ‘Delicate silk chiffons, double georgette and heavy crepes provide the canvas for these romantically sinister rows of captured species doused in javelin proportioned pins.’

Teatum Jones AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Teatum Jones AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Teatum Jones AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Teatum Jones A/W 2013 by Laura Hickman
Teatum Jones A/W 2013 by Laura Hickman.

Such intense attention to detail was translated into eminently wearable garments using the finest craftsmanship. A textured leather biker jacket was swung casually over the shoulder of a softly belted silk shirt dress, a cream polka dot lace shirt was used as the delicate base for a black puff hemmed waistcoat dress in a shiny textured wool, a miniature cape in midnight blue looked demure with cream and glittery black. But it was their fabulous print, reminiscent of huge summer blooms, that really captured my attention. It came as a relaxed sporty look in a giant hole punched shirt, as a floaty skirt and as a stunning strapless maxi dress that dropped in pleats from the bust, complete with handy pockets that the model was able to flaunt as she mosied around the room. Sod the cold weather, for A/W 2013 I dare you to wear big bold painterly florals.

Teatum Jones AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Teatum Jones AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Teatum Jones AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Teatum Jones AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Teatum Jones AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Teatum Jones A/W 2013. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Teatum Jones A/W 2013 by Cissy Hu
Teatum Jones A/W 2013 by Cissy Hu.

Categories ,A/W 2013, ,Butterflies, ,Catherine Teatum, ,Cissy Hu, ,Dorchester Hotel, ,Laura Hickman, ,liberty, ,Lolita, ,Rob Jones, ,rsa, ,Sylwia Szyszka, ,Teatum Jones, ,To My Youth… How we Laughed in Darkness, ,Vladimir Nabokov

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Amelia’s Magazine | What Does Colour Mean To You? Submit Your Story For A Chance To Make A Film And Win £250

This is Orange by Sarah Edmonds
This is Orange by Sarah Edmonds.

A recent chat with friends led to a discussion about what colour we intrinsically ‘were’. Fascinatingly we all agreed on the colours that came to mind, as if subconsciously they were obvious to us all. Colour is absolutely intrinsic to the way we feel, the way we look and the way we act. And for illustrators and artists it plays an enormous part in the creation of work. Of course many of us see colours differently (a huge amount of men, for instance, suffer some form of colour blindness) and colours also mean different things to different people. Why, for instance, do I love bright red and green, but dislike orange brown? I find it absolutely fascinating.

Now a major lifestyle brand is planning to collect stories of how people have been positively impacted by colour. They would like to know what your relationship is with a particular colour, what three words you would associate with it, and what kind of details from your life, your culture and your home have played a part in your opinion of that colour. To get involved you can submit your story as words, photography and video: the most compelling one will be filmed by leading film makers Blair & Oliver and edited into a short documentary about how colour has affected lives. If you submit the best story you’ll win £250.

What better way to get you inspired than a series of illustrations exploring what colour means to some of my contributors. To take part in this open callout send your stories to renewalstories@redant.com along with your contact details. The deadline for submission is 1st March 2013.

Green-by-CissyHu
Green by Cissy Hu. When I see green, my eyelashes will become a forest. The creatures of imagination will come out and play. Everything goes lively above the lake of heart (the eyes).

The Colour Pink by Christine Charnock
The Colour Pink by Christine Charnock. The colour pink has so many beautiful and versatile shades – from vibrant and bold, to calming and subdued. In the natural world, the colour pink is present in many fascinating forms. The sky of a sunset, flora and fauna, and the flamingo bird are particularly memorable and beautiful examples. Pink always seems to create a positive, uplifting and cheerful vibe, and this is one of the reasons why I adore this colour.

green is such a relaxing colour by Joanna Boyle
Green is such a relaxing colour by Joanna Boyle. My favourite time of year is spring time, when everything starts to get green after months of rain and cold. I associate the colour green with feeling calm and refreshed. As a result I love visiting green houses and like to keep lots of plants in my flat!

Turquoise Planet by Laura Redburn
Turquoise Planet by Laura Redburn. I absolutely love all colours, and colour is my world. Turquoise is my favourite, though. It both gives me energy and keeps me calm. I like to always have this colour around me because it also helps me feel creative but not overwhelmed. I feel as if there’s something magical about it that other colours don’t possess. To me it’s representative of earth and life.

Yellow Portrait of Silvia Pezzati by Rosa Crepax, Illustrated Moodboard
Yellow Portrait of Silvia Pezzati by Rosa Crepax, Illustrated Moodboard. My friend Silvia is the ‘yellowest’ person I know. Yellow is a very happy colour, I’ve always associated it with sunshine, cheerfulness and intellectual creativity. She is enthusiastic about everything, warm, bright and she actually smiles sun!

Green by Gemma Hampton
Green by Gemma Hampton. Green is my favourite colour. To me, it represents growth and freedom. As a keen gardener, I am forever fascinated when planting a seed and watching it spring into life, growing stronger and healthier by the day. I enjoy studying this process of development and feel a deep sense of satisfaction in the knowledge that I am nurturing this new life. 

Red by Gemma Cotterell
Red by Gemma Cotterell. I chose to illustrate red shown as a ‘mothers love’ – to me the colour projects power, warmth, love, strength, passion, and permanence. The beating heart is life itself, protected unconditionally by the flowering cactus, which symbolises maternal love.

Categories ,Blair & Oliver, ,Christine Charnock, ,Cissy Hu, ,colour, ,Colour blindness, ,competition, ,film, ,Gemma Cotterell, ,Gemma Hampton, ,Illustrated Moodboard, ,Joanna Boyle, ,Laura Redburn, ,Open Callout, ,Rosa Crepax, ,Sarah Edmonds, ,Silvia Pezzati

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