Pandemonia – AmeliasMagazine

Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Catwalk Review: Fashion Shenzhen Deng Hao

Fashion Shenzhen-Haiping Xie by Phoebe Kirk
Haiping Xie for Fashion Shenzhen by Phoebe Kirk.

There was a palpable sense of energy in the air as I walked into the hall and the lights dimmed for the first of two designers from Fashion Shenzhen. First up: Deng Hao. Special guests included the extravagant performance artist Pandemonia.

Pandemonia Shenzhen Exhibition by Natie Marie
Pandemonia by Natie Marie.

DengHao-Shenzhen Catwalk

FASHION SHENHEN_DENG HAO_GEMMATRAVIS
Deng Hao for Fashion Shenzhen by Gemma Travis.

The music was pumping, information pills the models’ hair slicked back into buns, malady the make-up gold and shimmery with smokey eyeliner. Deng Hao named this collection Flower Devil – GuRan Oriental Scarlet, inspired by Islamic mosques and Chinese temples.

DengHao-Shenzhen Catwalk

Fashion_Shenzen_DENG HAO by Caragh_Jackson
Deng Hao for Fashion Shenzhen by Caragh Jackson.

The collection featured the finest of woven materials and sheer knitwear, embroidered with gems and jewels in shapes of flowers or diamonds, on the collar, sleeves or sharp shoulders.

Sam_Parr_Shenzhen_Deng Hao_WEB
Deng Hao for Fashion Shenzhen by Sam Parr.

The influence of Islamic architecture was very subtle, with emblems, repeating patterns and borders of the kind that might be seen in holy places. Such symbols were woven and incorporated into the knitwear or onto sheer materials on panels and skirts.

DengHao-Shenzhen Catwalk

Shenzhen Dress Deng Hao by Nicola Ellen
Deng Hao for Fashion Shenzhen by Nicola Ellen.

The bolero jackets, draped sleeves, flamenco style skirts and mermaid tails with multiple frills were European in influence and there were also skin tight dresses with halter necks or sleeveless, worn with leggings or harem pants to enhance the female silhouette. The pieces were incredibly feminine and flirty but still maintained elements of Chinese heritage; I particularly loved the colourful blend of royal reds and blues with hints of viridian green and maroon.

DengHao-Shenzhen Catwalk

All photography by June Chanpoomidole.

Shenzhen Deng Hao by Nicola Ellen
Deng Hao for Fashion Shenzhen by Nicola Ellen.

Watch the full video of the Deng Hao catwalk show and see what you think. Next up, Haiping Xie.

<a target="_blank" href="http://www.vimeo.com/29275342" rel="noopener">http://www.vimeo.com/29275342</a>

Written by June Chanpoomidole on Thursday September 29th, 2011 4:40 pm

Categories ,Bolero, ,Caragh Jackson, ,China, ,Chinese, ,Claire Kearns, ,Deng Hao, ,Fashion Shenzhen, ,Flamenco, ,florals, ,Gemma Travis, ,Grand Connaught Rooms, ,Haiping Xie, ,Harem, ,illustrators, ,Islamic, ,June Chanpoomidole, ,knitwear, ,Leggings, ,Natie Marie, ,Nicola Ellen, ,Pandemonia, ,Phoebe Kirk, ,Sam Parr, ,Shenzhen, ,Vauxhall Fashion Scout

Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Catwalk Review: Fashion Shenzhen Haiping Xie

Sam_Parr_Haiping Xie_Shenzhen Yellow
Haiping Xie for Fashion Shenzhen by Sam Parr.

Following the catwalk show from Deng Hao there was a brief interlude with a video from the Shenzhen Tourist Board and then I was delighted to see the collection of Haiping Xie in motion. An oriental version of La Vie en Rose played in the background as Xie’s models came out in metallic bronze make-up with their hair styled in blunt bowl cuts covered in printed bandanas.

Haiping Xie - Shenzhen Catwalk

Fashion_Shenzen_Haiping Xie_by Caragh_Jackson
Haiping Xie for Fashion Shenzhen by Caragh Jackson.

The atmospheric abstract prints were similar to the ones I had seen at the exhibition, buy information pills with an appealing grainy quality. They featured colourful iconography from Chinese mythology and butterflies that enticed us into an Oriental garden on a spring day. There were lots of textures in this collection; exaggerated tiers of ruffles on skirts, price sheer neon yellow underskirts, cheap feather-like shrugs, pure white and cyan tulle, taffeta and rosettes.

Haiping Xie - Shenzhen Catwalk

Fashion Shenzhen Haiping Xie by Claire Kearns
Haiping Xie for Fashion Shenzhe by Clarie Kearns.

Haiping Xie - Shenzhen Catwalk

Fashion-Shenzhen-by-Debbie-Ajia
Haiping Xie for Fashion Shenzhen by Debbie Ajia.

As with Deng Hao, traditional garments were juxtaposed with European style dress such as skater skirts, chain halter necks, swing dresses and an exaggerated Spanish flamenco style dress as the main finale. This was a bold, bright and bouncy show but I felt the Shenzhen heritage and mystique was slightly lost underneath the many prints and textures – I preferred the traditional dresses at the exhibition.

Haiping Xie - Shenzhen Catwalk

All photography by June Chanpoomidole.

Nevertheless it was very interesting to see how Deng Hao and Haiping Xie have created their own ways of uniting western and eastern cultures together.

Watch the full video of the catwalk show and see what you think. Don’t forget to check out my review of the Deng Hao show too.

<a target="_blank" href="http://www.vimeo.com/29277227" rel="noopener">http://www.vimeo.com/29277227</a>

Written by June Chanpoomidole on Friday September 30th, 2011 8:51 am

Categories ,Awakening, ,Caragh Jackson, ,China, ,Chinese, ,Claire Kearns, ,Debbie Ajia, ,Deng Hao, ,Fashion Shenzhen, ,Gemma Travis, ,Haiping Xie, ,illustrators, ,June Chanpoomidole, ,La Vie en Rose, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,Natie Marie, ,Nicola Ellen, ,Pandemonia, ,Phoebe Kirk, ,Sam Parr, ,Shenzhen, ,Vauxhall Fashion Scout

Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Catwalk Review: Jayne Pierson (featuring Pierson Lawlor)

Jayne Pierson S/S 2012, order illustrated by Gareth A Hopkins

Oof, visit this site I love a new fashion week site. I took a Boris from the action at Somerset House all the way to Old Street to see Jayne Pierson‘s show at the LSO St Luke’s venue. This historic Anglican church is almost three hundred years old, buy information pills and was rescued by the LSO when controversial plans to turn the beauty into offices were proposed. Thank heavens.

Jayne Pierson S/S 2012, illustrated by Tina Reidy

The church is set in a beautiful garden, and as I sweated my way through it, I thought what a romantic setting for a fashion show. These are thoughts I only have when suffering from sleep deprivation and RFSI (Repetitive Fashion Show Injury). Inside, some of the former glory has gone to make way for inevitable modernisations, but the imposing ceiling and cold stone walls still exist. A catwalk had been temporarily constructed where the aisle would once have been, and a film played on loop at the end of a photography shoot starring a rather dishy ballet dancer. It was all very exciting.

Photography by Amelia Gregory

The show eventually started after the mandatory bunfight for seats and flashbulb shower for Pandemonia. A man whose name I didn’t have a chance to write down explained that, this season, Jayne Pierson had worked with the ballet and we were in for a treat. The models were to be ballet dancers. I almost audibly ‘whooped’ at how refreshing it all was.

Jayne Pierson S/S 2012, illustrated by Gabriel Ayala

Models appeared cheekily from behind a partition, moving gracefully down the catwalk en pointe. I know this is one of life’s wonders and people train for years to get this right, but it doesn’t half make me cringe (perhaps that’s Black Swan‘s influence, too). I imagine the agony you put your body through to achieve such a graceful poise.

Photography by Matt Bramford

A mixture of male and female models appeared, wearing Jayne Piersons S/S 2012 collection. This was clearly a collection influenced by dance and drama of all kind. They floated past, some faster than others, some acting a little like they might have been drinking, but nonetheless looking equally as beautiful. The theatrics, as splendid as they were, did distract a little from the clothes, and it’s only since I’ve reviewed my pictures that I’ve got a real flavour for what Jayne Pierson has produced this season.

Jayne Pierson S/S 2012, illustrated by Gilly Rochester

Jayne Pierson‘s now statement shapes flooded the catwalk; exaggerated shoulders, tight waists. Corsets in high-gloss leather were playfully applied to looser garments in similar colours. Micro shorts were leather. A muted graphic print was used on a dangerous bikini and a halterneck onesie. Modest pastel vests had been sexed up with black pom-pom like shoulder details. A bodycon dress carried theatrical orange fringing; sophistication, glamour and exquisite craftsmanship evident in every piece.

Jayne Pierson S/S 2012, illustrated by Gareth A Hopkins

Jayne Pierson‘s clever use of material and colour was as evident as it has been during her five fashion week outings. Leathers, suedes and silks all flow organically throughout this cohesive collection, helped along by a colour palette of stone, taupe, grey, champagne and sand.

Photography by Amelia Gregory

I’m not sure if it was the Royal Ballet dancing element having an influence, but the clothes were very dramatic, and I did wonder what they might look like modelled in the usual fashion. But a finale that brought the dancers pairing up to perform some dramatic lifts really raised eyebrows and audible gasps echoed around St Luke’s. Sitting across from me, it was clear Caryn Franklin loved it. And I did too.

Photography by Matt Bramford

Written by Matt Bramford on Friday September 23rd, 2011 7:46 pm

Categories ,Amelia, ,ballet, ,Black Swan, ,Caryn Franklin, ,catwalk, ,dance, ,Derek Lawlor, ,drama, ,En Pointe, ,Front Row, ,Gabriel Ayala, ,Gareth A Hopkins, ,Gilly Rochester, ,Jayne Pierson, ,leather, ,LSO St Luke’s, ,Matt Bramford, ,Onesie, ,Pandemonia, ,review, ,RFSI, ,Royal Ballet, ,S/S 2012, ,Suede, ,Tina Reidy, ,Womenswear

Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2011 Catwalk Review: Ziad Ghanem

Ziad Ghanem by Avril Kelly

What an amazing show; Ziad Ghanem has trumped everything else I’ve seen this week. Opening with a model dressing in a dark, pharmacy dramatic floor length strapless gown, troche with green feathers, stilts and skull makeup the audience were cheering from the off.

Ziad Ghanem A/W 2011 photography by Amelia Gregory

The front row was packed out with the eccentrically dressed – Boy George almost blended into the background in a bright yellow hat and full face of makeup. Special mention has to go to the PVC clad, (and complete with blow up hair), London artist Pandemonia, sitting opposite me. Together with a matching blow up dog, she must have been boilin’!

Ziad Ghanem A/W 2011 photography by Amelia Gregory
Ziad Ghanem by Alison Day

The loud show, with music changes more frequent than model changes provided clapping, laughing and unanimous approval – so much so that no one seemed to care that the show started an almost an hour late. Male and female models took to the catwalk in stunning creations – capes, gigantic earrings and tremendously tight dresses were wriggled, danced and glided down the runway on joker-style made-up faces.

Ziad Ghanem A/W 2011 photography by Amelia Gregory

The models came in all shapes and sizes but voluptuous curves and a heaving bosom was the order of the evening. Corset dresses that pushed said bosoms up and out were so tight that somewhere Scarlett Johansen was blushing. Full length floaty gowns in pale hues of blue, deep reds, sparkling gold and matte grey also allowed for plenty of swishing, and cloak spinning as the models made their way towards the waiting photographers.

Ziad Ghanem A/W 2011 photography by Amelia Gregory
Ziad Ghanem by Madi

My favourite dress was the bright fuschia deep cut and backless cocktail dress that nipped in perfectly at the waist. The shiny nature of the material was so unashamedly trashy that it avoided (I think) being either tacky or quality street wrapper-esque. Other notable highlights of the show include a deathly bride and groom, solemnly showering the crowd with petals at the end of the show, and the model who pirouetted her way backwards after walking down the catwalk. All in all, a brilliant show – exciting, entertaining and some truly beautiful clothes.

Ziad Ghanem A/W 2011 photography by Amelia Gregory.

Written by Florence Massey on Wednesday February 23rd, 2011 4:40 pm

Categories ,Alison Day, ,Amelia’s, ,Avril Kelly, ,AW11, ,boy george, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Gowns, ,london, ,London Fashion Week, ,Madi, ,Pandemonia, ,Ziad Ghanem

Amelia’s Magazine | Bernard Chandran: London Fashion Week A/W 2012 Catwalk Review

Bernard Chandran A/W 2012 by Scott Nellis.

Normally Matt Bramford insists on covering Bernard Chandran so I was a bit of a newbie to his catwalk show, attended by such luminaries as…. Keisha Buchanan, formerly of the Sugababes. Not perhaps someone that I would have pinpointed as a fan, but she was overheard saying that this is her third Bernard show so she is no doubt better acquainted with his work than me.

Bernard Chandran AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory Keisha

Bernard Chandran A/W 2012 by Lo Parkin.

The show began with a double act – two models in white, black and shades of charcoal grey striding out to an incongruous Junglist soundtrack. Their hair was set in sleek forward facing Victory rolls and pale grey tinted eyebrows combined with bright red lips to give an elegant feel. All the emphasis was on the throat, with extravagant folding collars standing high on the neck. This look was repeated throughout the collection: appearing as a design detail on a calf length quilted coat, or as jewelled neck pieces – the main adornments for silky evening dresses.

Bernard Chandran AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory

Bernard Chandran A/W 2012 by Cruz.

Midnight blue satin, black velvet, delicate lacy materials, sequin embellishments – there was beauty in textures here, mainly in dark shades befitting an A/W collection. Transparent and sheer pieces in muted nude, dusky rose and chocolate tones lifted the colour palette but it was a beautiful belted coat dress that really caught my eye: it featured what looked like a spattering of metallic car body paint across the front – whitely gleaming against the black ground under bright catwalk lights.

Bernard Chandran AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory

Bernard Chandran A/W 2012 by Janneke de Jong.

Sparkling clutch bags echoed the heart like designs of neckpieces, and a particularly beautiful red jewelled neck piece paired with a black pants suit drew gasps from the audience. I imagine that once detached this could be worn as statement jewellery to perk up any throat in appealing style.

Bernard Chandran AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory

All photography by Amelia Gregory.

I’m not sure that Pandemonia (seated front row in lurid pink latex) will be taking much inspiration from Bernard Chandran for next season’s look, but this was an undeniably adult collection with great saleability – perfect for elegant ladies who desire a unique designer twist.

<a target="_blank" href="http://www.vimeo.com/37026902" rel="noopener">http://www.vimeo.com/37026902</a>

Written by Amelia Gregory on Friday February 24th, 2012 5:37 pm

Categories ,A/W 2012, ,Bernard Chandran, ,Cruz, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Janneke de Jong, ,Keisha Buchanan, ,Lo Parkin, ,Pandemonia, ,Scott Nellis, ,Sugababes

Amelia’s Magazine | Bernard Chandran: London Fashion Week A/W 2013 Catwalk Review

Bernard Chanrdan AW 2013 Rosa and Carlotta Crepax Illustrated Moodboard
Bernard Chandran A/W 2013 Rosa and Carlotta Crepax, Illustrated Moodboard.

Due to a seating mix up and a late arrival no one for Amelia’s Magazine was well placed to take photos at Bernard Chandran. Perched at the mouth of the catwalk I had a great view of the models’ amazing winged eyes and some interesting cut out backs, a nod to the 90s that has been increasingly popular on the catwalks this season.

Bernard Chandran AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory

Bernard Chandran A/W 2013. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

There was a real element of sports luxe to this collection, which began with tight fitting panelled dresses in jewel colours, the lyrca stretched from the high necks into hoods and over a flat visor. Embellishments came in the form of beading and painterly washes of colour in digital prints on A-line shift dresses, billowing blouses and boxy shirts. I particularly liked the loose plaits that held together uncovered hair: a look which has been popular on many catwalks for A/W 2013.

Bernard Chandran A/W 2013 by Jihyun Park.

Bernard Chandran AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory

<a target="_blank" href="http://www.vimeo.com/59189285" rel="noopener">http://www.vimeo.com/59189285</a>

Written by Amelia Gregory on Saturday February 23rd, 2013 11:10 pm

Categories ,90s, ,A/W 2013, ,Beading, ,Bernard Chandran, ,Illustrated Moodboard, ,Jihyun Park, ,London Fashion Week, ,print, ,Rosa and Carlotta Crepax

Amelia’s Magazine | Ashley Isham: London Fashion Week S/S 2014 Catwalk Review

Ashley Isham S/S 2014 by Laura Hickman

I brandished a ‘priority’ ticket at Ashley Isham‘s show on Saturday, shamefully secure as I stood in the queue that I was assured a top seat. As chaos descended outside, though, it soon became clear that being escorted to my seat by my arm like a debutante was looking unlikely. I rapidly gave up on any hope of resting my derriere inside, instead opting for a decent standing spot. As we waited for the show to begin, I nosily read a girl’s text messages to pass the time. ‘I’m third row, it’s RIDICULOUS!’ she exclaimed, by SMS, to pretty much everybody stored in her iPhone 5.

All photography by Matt Bramford

It was pretty easy to see what all the fuss was about as the show began. This ‘Belle du Jour‘ collection was as sophisticated and polished as any I’ve seen. Luxury fabrics in pale blue formed the opening pieces, presented as short dresses and tapered trousers. Shift dresses in pastel colours demonstrated Isham’s commercial viability, while plastic jackets with floral edges added a futuristic dimension to the collection. These appeared in electric blue and black and were my favourite pieces. Hats by House of Flora covered models faces, only revealing eyes with laser cut mask shapes filled in with netting.

Ashley Isham S/S 2014 by Ozlem Djafer

There were a couple of slightly obscure pieces: a casual grey top teamed with ill-fitting white trousers didn’t belong, but were quickly forgotten with the finale pieces – Isham’s glamorous red carpet-ready dresses. Sweetheart necklines, fishtail hems, couture worthy embellishment and embroidery and elongated trains will secure even more fashionable followers.