Amelia’s Magazine | Napsugar Von Bittera: London Fashion Week A/W 2014 Presentation Review

Napsugar Von Bittera By Sangita Kumari

Napsugar Von Bittera by Sangita Kumari.

Hungarian designer Napsugar Von Bittera put together a pop art inspired presentation at Fashion Scout, with models posing around and against set pieces which included a gargantuan packet of popcorn and a giant lollipop. Models wore louche up-dos, red lips and cut out heels with red socks peeping through. Laser cut leather in deep blue, black and white was crafted into highly wearable dresses, jackets and swing skirts with zip detailing.

Napsugar AW 2014-blue jacket photography by Amelia Gregory

Napsugar AW 2014-black dress photography by Amelia Gregory

All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,A/W 2014, ,Fashion Scout, ,Hungarian, ,Napsugar von Bittera, ,Sangita Kumari

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Amelia’s Magazine | Dot to Dot at V&A Museum of Childhood: Childrenswear Showroom Report, February 2014

Dot to Dot showroom for kids

Following my write up of the Bubble London kidswear trade show I was invited along to the inaugural Dot to Dot trade show and press day at the Museum of Childhood last weekend. I was promised some of the best independent childrenswear brands, so how could I say no? After a three hour stint at Spa London in York Hall (I’ve only got a few weeks left until my birthday and still needed to use up a much appreciated 40th birthday gift voucher from my NCT buddies) I bombed into the museum’s basement for a whirlwind tour before heading home for lunch. I hope I didn’t scare off too many brand owners with my extremely pink face and wild steam room hair.

Dot to Dot childrenswear trade show

The basement of the museum was the ideal venue for this venture, which is the brainchild of Carly Gledhill from Corby Tindersticks and Nicole Frobusch from Nixie Clothing, designed to showcase their favourite independent British children’s designers. The basement was compact yet airy and easy to negotiate and I particularly liked the small touches, such as some fabulous collaged artwork on the walls, courtesy of students from the Kids Company. There was a fantastic array of exciting independent brands on show, making my fleeting visit well worth the effort on a blustery winter’s weekend.

Corby Tindersticks cushion

I’ve written about Corby Tindersticks before, but this was a chance to become truly smitten by this burgeoning brand, which now includes square cushions (they make very cute shaped ones too) and clothing in its offering, much of which will appeal equally to adults and children. I unfortunately did not get a good photograph of their wall display, which was beautifully put together.

Badger print by Poco Nido

This super cute badger design is by Poco Nido from Sheffield, set up by footwear designer Catherine Lobley. Perhaps not unsurprisingly her speciality is very cute printed baby slippers. I also love the fact that she runs a competition to see who can make the best object out of a Poco Nido packaging tube. Yay to crafty recycling!

Indikidual clothing

Indikidual crayola print

I adore the deliciously bright colour palette from Indikidual, a brand which I have heard many good things about in recent times. The collection, designed by Syreeta Johnson, is unisex and designed to be worn in layers. I am looking forward to dressing Snarfle in some of these pieces in the years to come. Doesn’t this crayon print rock?

Aravore dress for girls

I am super impressed by the many roles of Aravore designer Yanina Aubrey, who has used a beautiful end of roll luxury womenswear fabric (above) in her pretty new collection. During London Fashion Week she will be curating the Paraguayan international showcase. Impressive stuff, I will have to try and visit.

Little_Titans_lookbook-tights for boys

Little Titans cushion

The fabulous illustrative branding for boys’ tights brand Little Titans by Carly Hardy appears on the cushion above and on all packaging, combined with some wonderful typography and photography. I adore the quirky central character, which really sums up a typical cheeky little boy. As a massive tights fan (for Snarfle, I should clarify, I’m more of a leggings woman these days) I have obviously become aware of Little Titans, which specialises in abstract designs: think bold colourings, stripes and lightening bolts. I think they are fab and am sure that Snarfle will wear these in the future, although for now he is exclusively dressed in the wonderful patterned offerings from Slugs and Snails.

Becky Baur

There were other designers that I did not get a chance to look at because I was in such a rush, but for now I’ll end with the eye-catching range by Hackney based designer Becky Baur (who I clearly missed on my earlier Top Drawer excursion). She also had the most wonderful wall display (again, didn’t manage to get a good photo, my bad). With designs that would be equally loved by kids and adults, her brand, launched in 2011, includes homeware, stationery and ceramics. Very very cool.

Many of the designers at the Dot to Dot press day have impeccable environmental credentials, using organic cotton and manufacturing or making up their products within the UK where possible. Having just learnt that organic cotton uses half the water of normal cotton and avoids all the health problems associated with pesticides (from Zandra Rhodes! in her penthouse flat! but more on that later…) I think it’s great that so many childrenswear designers are doing their best to implement ethical practices, and I am really enjoying the process of getting to know this aspect of the fashion industry, now that I’ve got a little one of my own.

Categories ,Aravore, ,Becky Baur, ,Bubble London, ,Carly Gledhill, ,Carly Hardy, ,Catherine Lobley, ,Corby Tindersticks, ,Dot to Dot, ,ethical, ,Indikidual, ,Kids Company, ,Little Titans, ,London Fashion Week, ,Museum of Childhood, ,NCT, ,Nicole Frobusch, ,Nixie Clothing, ,Organic Cotton, ,Poco Nido, ,Slugs and Snails, ,Snarfle, ,Spa London, ,Syreeta Johnson, ,Top Drawer, ,va, ,Yanina Aubrey, ,York Hall, ,Zandra Rhodes

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Amelia’s Magazine | Emesha: The London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Preview Interview

Emesha-SS12-by-Lisa-Stannard
Emesha S/S 2012 by Lisa Stannard.

I feel very privileged to be able to announce an exclusive bit of London Fashion Week news that has happened in part because of my latest book: Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration. Drumroll please…………

I am thrilled to tell the world that the wonderful ethical designer Emesha has collaborated with the equally fab illustrator, nurse print designer and longterm Amelia’s Magazine contributor Lisa Stannard on her latest S/S 2012 collection. Now that LFW is upon us I can hereby reveal the low down on this inspiring pairing.

Emesha by Gareth A Hopkins
Emesha S/S 2012 by Gareth A Hopkins.

I’m very excited that your latest collection for Emesha features a collaboration with Lisa Stannard, who illustrated your label for Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration. How did that all come about? 
Lisa Stannard illustrated my work which was featured in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration and that is how I’ve become familiar with her work. I was immediately drawn to her handwriting and we started following each other’s work. When I decided to include prints in my new collection I asked her if she’d collaborate with me and she said yes!

Why did you decide to include print design in this collection?
In my second year at University I took an elective in printing and designed a print collection in my final year, so it has always been close to my heart. I would have liked to include printing in previous collections as well, but it is a time consuming process and I’ve always been really busy with garment development and pattern cutting. With the help of Lisa this season, this dream has finally come alive.

Emesha SS 2012 broken paint
What were the inspirations for your print designs and how did you research them?
I’ve always been interested in contrasting themes throughout my collections. For this season I really wanted to create something that referenced the past, but was also modern, examined the digital and analogue design techniques. I also wanted to do a non-figurative print that has a transition in it. When researching I’ve looked into very different things, such as pixels, decaying trees and surface walls.

Emesha by Debbie Ajia.
Emesha S/S 2012 by Debbie Ajia.

What has been the best part of the process of your collaboration?
I believe we worked really well together as we were able to discuss everything and Lisa was really open minded to try different techniques. Lisa first painted by hand, which then she scanned in and reworked digitally. Finally we ended up combining two different prints which made a really nice contrast. Throughout the process, we were both pushing each other and for me the best part was the creation of a collection which we are both really proud of.

Emesha ss 2012 floral-moodboard-2
What inspired the colour palette this season?
In the Spring/Summer 2012 collection there is so much going on, so I really wanted to keep the colour palette very simple. The two main colours are black and white and transitions, combined with mainly green which comes through from the print designs. I also asses a dash of pink to compliment our second colour-way.

Why are you so intrigued in creating androgynous looks?
I find it very sexy when a woman wears boyish outfits, I think it gives it a more interesting and eyecatching look. I think it’s also a personal preference as girly garments don’t suit me, however, I always add feminine elements (pleating and silks) to each collection to counterbalance the masculinity of the looks.

Emesha ss 2012 wall
Have you used any intriguing new eco-fabrics this season and if so what are they and where did they come from?
I always use natural fibres as they biodegrade at the end of their life cycle. This time around I mainly focussed on using silks. For printing you need special fabrics which were provided by the printers. All other fabrics were sourced in the UK.

How do you source production in Hungary Is it easy to find a skilled workforce and how do you manage them from the UK?
It is getting more and more difficult to source skilled workforce there. Once thriving, the country’s apparel industry has now undergone a major change due to cheap clothes flooding the market. I believe this is a big problem throughout Europe and I hope that more and more customers will look for quality clothes in favour of fast fashion.

What next for Emesha?
As I collaborated with quite a few people this season, I have a new project launching soon to introduce everyone and their work. I cannot say any more about it at the moment, but you’ll be the first to know when it is up and running!

Emesha will be showing as part of Estethica at London Fashion Week. I can’t wait to see what she has cooked up with Amelia’s Magazine contributor Lisa Stannard! More news about the collaboration can be found on Emesha’s website.

Categories ,ACOFI, ,Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration, ,androgynous, ,Debbie Ajia, ,Eco fashion, ,Emesha, ,estethica, ,ethical, ,Fast Fashion, ,Gareth A Hopkins, ,Hungary, ,Lisa Stannard, ,print

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Amelia’s Magazine | Tent London 2013 Preview: Best of Tent London 2012

Tent London Oct 2012
It comes on hard after London Fashion Week, but I always make sure to get along to Tent London at the Truman Brewery: for this huge and sprawling exhibition is a great place to find the best in design, from homeware and lighting to furniture, wall art, rugs and beyond. Even though I have run individual blogs on some of my favourite discoveries I was most remiss in writing up our usual review last year, so as the 2013 edition rolls around I bring you a further selection of the best things I found in 2012. Make sure you check out my listing for more details of this year’s event.

Tent London Oct 2012 Jon Male
Upcycled lights by Studio Jon Male.

Tent London Oct 2012-tamasyn gambell
Cushions by Tamasyn Gambell.

Tent London Oct 2012-rug
Tent London Oct 2012-lights
Fab rug and lights, not sure by whom!

Tent London Oct 2012-Anthony Hartley
Furniture by Anthony Hartley. Read my interview here.

Tent London Oct 2012- Zoe Murphy
Cushions by Zoe Murphy.

Tent London Oct 2012-wallpaper by Rachel Powell
Wallpaper by Rachel Powell.

Tent London Oct 2012-beautiful wooden object
Sadly I don’t have any information for this beautiful wooden object, but I think it could be used as a decorative wall hanging or as a pot mat in the kitchen.

Tent London Oct 2012-Claire Anne O'Brien
Knitted furniture by Claire Anne O’Brien.

Tent London Oct 2012-venus by cupertino
Scott Eaton‘s Venus of Cupertino ipad docking stations.

Tent London Oct 2012-Laszlo Tompa
Sculptural wooden furniture by Laszlo Tompa. Read our interview here.

Tent London Oct 2012-Réka Molnár, Moringa, Hungarian
Heat sensitive mug designs by Hungarian designer Réka Molnár of Moringa.

Tent London Oct 2012-Magnetic rings by Grace Hancock
Magnetic rings by Grace Hancock.

Tent London Oct 2012-Front rug monster
Front rugs: monster.

Tent London Oct 2012-Ginger and Jagger
Stools by Ginger & Jagger.

Tent London Oct 2012-CYMK lamp by Dennis Parren
CYMK lamp by Dennis Parren.

Tent London Oct 2012-Candlesticks by Victoria Delaney
Candlesticks by Victoria Delaney.

Tent London Oct 2012-Architectural miniature by Chisel and Mouse
Architectural miniature by Chisel and Mouse.

Tent London Oct 2012-Milena Kovanovic
Necklace by Milena Kovanovic. Read my interview here.

Tent London Oct 2012-Lars Beller Fjetland for Discipline
Wooden birds by Lars Beller Fjetland for Discipline.

I wonder who I will discover this year? Make sure you follow me on instagram to share in my favourite finds first.

Categories ,2012, ,2013, ,Anthony Hartley, ,Chisel and Mouse, ,Claire Anne O’Brien, ,Dennis Parren, ,design, ,Front rugs, ,Furniture, ,Ginger & Jagger, ,Grace Hancock, ,Hungarian, ,Lars-Beller Fjetland, ,Laszlo Tompa, ,Lighting, ,London Design Festival, ,Milena Kovanovic, ,Moringa, ,Rachel Powell, ,Réka Molnár, ,review, ,Scott Eaton, ,Studio Jon Male, ,Tamasyn Gambell, ,Tent London, ,Truman Brewery, ,Upcycled, ,Venus of Cupertino, ,Victoria Delaney, ,Zoe Murphy

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Amelia’s Magazine | irkafirka illustrated tweets: Nick Hilditch explains

irkafirka manflu goblin

Intrigued by a side project by one of our contributors, I decided to get to the bottom of this irkafirka business…

irkafirka: illustrated tweets. “Anything you say may be taken down and coloured in.” What a great idea, how did the project start?
My old friend Chris challenged me to draw a Twitter-inspired doodle a day and post it. My initial reaction was “I don’t have time for this” but the seed was planted, and I decided it wouldn’t do any harm to try it once. The response was instant and we were both hooked.

irkafirka batman joker

Who is irkafirka and why the name?
irkafirka is Nick Hilditch (illustrator, that’s me) and Chris Bell (curator). The name is a Hungarian word meaning doodle. I lived in Budapest for 7 years and speak Hungarian poorly, but its a beautiful word, and I filed it away years ago for future use. Everything about irkafirka came together very spontaneously – the concept, the name, the little dog logo. Everything about it feels right to us.

How did you two hook up and how long have you been in business?
Chris and I have been friends since school, although our lives took us in different directions. It was only through Twitter that we re-ignited our teenage delusions of grandeur. The business relationship is informal – we didn’t start out to make money from the project, we did it for the sheer fun of it. Now it consumes so much of our time and we have such a big audience, we’d love to take it to the next level, but as yet, the means to monetise our success alludes us. One goal we set was to get an irkafirka book published, but we want to get this right rather than rushing into it. We’d love to talk to any interested publishers.

irkafirka horse

How does the technical side work?
Here’s Chris on the technical side: “It’s a clunky-chunk of social-webbery. The website is built on the Fullscreen template for WordPress. Illustrations are taken from TwitPic and posted along with a picture of the original tweet. The illustrations are automatically cross-posted to our Tumblr page. Each new post updates the RSS feed, which populates the iPhone and Nokia apps automatically. We then add a link to the post on the Facebook page, which also carries other miscellaneous nonsense including a gallery of the 200 most recent illustrations, which are pulled from our Flickr picture stream. We also have various pictures on show in cities around the country using the crazy magic of augmented reality. We use Layar and a back-end system run over in Belgium by our dear friends at Hoppala. Best of all, apart from hosting the website everything we use is totally free. We are a pair of cheapskates…”

irkafirka squirrel

How do you decide what tweets to illustrate?
This is the hardest part. The truth is, the vast majority of tweets are utterly banal. It really is just a case of using any means possible to find great visuals, and when I see a tweet I can illustrate I jump straight on it. We look for recommendations from our audience of over 1700 followers, we browse other people’s lists, we search keywords. We do have rules the most important of which is rule 6, “If we stop enjoying it, we’ll stop.” I believe that when a creator is enjoying their work that will come across in the end product, so I’m really just looking for things that amuse me. We also ask that people recommend vivid tweeters to us using the #firkafursday tag, every Thursday. This way, we’ve built up a watch list which occasionally yields results – it’s no guarantee of getting your tweet illustrated, but it almost certainly improves the odds.

irkafirka swedish moon

If you were to chose anything from my recent tweets to illustrate, what would it be? (go on, do me an illustration… or does that count as a suggestion and will therefore be ignored. pretend I didn’t say anything… it’s all subliminal…)
I had a skim through your recent timeline. As is often the case, most of your tweets are either parts of conversations with little meaning out of context, or links. We’re all for wilfully taking things out of context. To this day, one of my personal favourites is “The oven’s broken. I’ll have to get the bloke out”. A very important part of what we do is the element of surprise – we don’t like the subject to know they’re going to get firked. You can commission an illustration, but technically, a commission wouldn’t be an irkafirka. It would simply be a work by the artists behind irkafirka. And it wouldn’t be free.

You try to post daily but of course real life gets in the way… when is an irkafirka more important – what would prompt you to miss a favourite film in favour of an illustration?
irkafirka has become a compulsion for me. If I miss a day, I feel more pressure to make sure I deliver something the next. On a day when I’m busy and can’t see when I’ll be able to produce something, I’m agitated. Usually we try and let our followers know when it’s a rule 5 day (that’s the rule that let’s us off the hook due to other commitments), but I never like to rule it out. My wife has been incredibly patient. A favourite film is a good example of something I wouldn’t miss, though. I’m a bit of an old school cineaste.

irkafirka unicycle

Nick: you used to live in Hungary. Why on earth did you come back to the UK, and what do you miss most about Hungary?
I loved living in Hungary, and I haven’t ruled out moving back. I miss my friends there, the long hot summers and the bableves (bean soup). I came back because I was finding it increasingly difficult to find relevant work. My wife is Hungarian, so we go back as often as possible. People often say “yours is a job you could do from anywhere” which is true to some extent, but to find the work you usually need to get out there and meet the clients. The dream is that one day my work will be so much in demand, I’ll be able to live where I want. So start demanding, demanders.

You also jacked in a career at a digital agency to become a freelance artist. What prompted this move and has it been a success? What’s the best job you’ve worked on so far, and has Irkafirka got you any jobs?
Working at a digital agency was interesting, and I got to work on a lot of great brands. I even helped them win 2 BAFTAs. However, I was there for over 4 years and the work was beginning to feel repetitious. I also wanted to develop my own IP so that I’d have work would that generate an income for me. I didn’t quit because of irkafirka, but it did give me confidence in my own work and helped me build up a portfolio that wasn’t exclusively comprised of other people’s brands. irkafirkas are drawn quickly, in a single sitting, with little or no advance planning, so they’re frequently full of mistakes, but as with great music, I like to think that this is compensated for by the energy put into them. When showing my portfolio, it is the work that generates the most interest. As irkafirka is a significant part of my portfolio, I like to think it’s played a part in all the work I’ve picked up since I started freelancing. The only paid work that’s resulted directly from irkafirka is a side-project for Nokia where we draw illustrations based on comments from the official Nokia blog. It’s too early to say whether it’s been a success, but I certainly don’t regret it, and it’s very hard to imagine going back.

How can someone get hold of an irkafirka print, and which ones would you recommend as christmas presses for specific members of the family?
Selling prints wasn’t initially part of the plan, but the demand was there, so we set up a shop at Zazzle. They’re most frequently bought by the subject, so the market is fairly limited, but we’re looking for ways to make irkafirka-based products with a broader appeal in the new year. The images that make it into the shop are added on the basis that somebody expressed an interest in buying them, rather than because we necessarily think they’re the best works. However, based on what’s there already, here’s my handy irkafirka shopping list that’s surely better than the tired recommendations you’ll find on Amazon.

For your Mum: @BangsandaBun
For your Dad: @BruceandSimon
For your Grandparent: @Whatleydude
For your dirty uncle: @bennycrime
If you find something on irkafirka that isn’t in the shop, and you’d like to buy a copy, just let us know and we’ll upload it. Happy Christmas!

**************************************************************************
Alas, I broke the rules, so I have yet to inspire my own illustrated tweet… although I’m fairly sure that a quick glance through tweets produced in the 24 hours previous to Nick completing this Q&A could have turned up a few goodies (let’s just gloss over the fact that the best was a retweet, okay?)

Best go put the hob on in the kitchen so I can spread them around a bit. (Hob to keep me warm, bloody arctic down there)

RT @PennyRed I am a tiny protesting icicle. A protesticle.

have not left house for nearly three days. or seen anyone. I am a hermit.

pah! I wouldn’t miss it that much, I just went out for food supplies and my face nearly fell off – staying put now

I live in hope that one day I will be deemed worthy…

Categories ,#firkafursday, ,Apps, ,Budapest, ,Bulgarian, ,Chris Bell, ,Flickr, ,hashtag, ,Hoppala, ,Hungarian, ,illustration, ,iPhone, ,irkafirka, ,Layar, ,Nick Hilditch, ,Nokia, ,Tumblr, ,Twitpic, ,twitter, ,Zazzle

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