Amelia’s Magazine | Plastic Seconds creates a wall for Supermarket Sarah

Plastic_Seconds_wall
It’s no secret that I am a big fan of Maria Papadimitriou‘s work. Not only does she produce many wonderful collaged illustrations for Amelia’s Magazine but she also creates the most brilliant recycled jewellery under the Plastic Seconds moniker. It’s not only bold and clever but also fully sustainable, adiposity so I am really happy that people are starting to take notice. Right now she has a wall with Supermarket Sarah, ask where you can buy some beautiful bespoke pieces. I urge you to check it out.

Plastic Seconds Clownish HeadpiecePlastic Seconds Pearls and Bottlenecks Necklace

How did you decide what to make for Supermarket Sarah?
It is absolutely great that Supermarket Sarah often feature one-off items with a lot of personality, which one would perhaps wear to be different or keep as a special fashion object – a few of the gorgeous items they sell come from prop styling and photo shoots. So I wanted most of the Plastic Seconds items for the Supermarket Sarah website to be both unique and larger or more extreme in a fashion sense.

Plastic Seconds British Lids PendantPlastic Seconds Pen Lids Necklace

Can you describe what some of the Plastic Seconds pieces are made from and how you source the materials?
I use a lot of lids – from plastic bottles, glass jars, and other containers. I also love to use one-off finds like the cloakroom tags or the large jigsaw puzzle pieces and other bits from objects that we usually throw away, but their shape and colour is so lovely and fun, especially when used in an unexpected context – examples of this are the pen lids and the sushi soy sauce containers. I have slowly been collecting materials for a few years now from the recycling boxes of the flats I have been living in – and still do. At the moment one of my other main sources is my part-time job where they let me have a Plastic Seconds collection box in the kitchen and where colleagues bring me bags of their collected finds quite regularly – also it is a public space with a lot of visitors and I often do table rounds collecting bottle neck rings from abandoned bottles. Another source is my family in Greece who keep all sorts of bits they can’t recycle in my old desk drawers for me – and I do love sushi…

Plastic Seconds Sushi NecklacePlastic Seconds Plug Necklace

What piece was the most fun to make and why?
They were all quite fun, but as I said above I really enjoyed making the bigger pieces for Supermarket Sarah – like the headpieces – because I really admire people who have a strong sense of personal style or are playful with dressing up and secretly constantly hope people wore colourful big things on all occasions! Also I find it very satisfying that simple, geometric, striking pieces can be made from readily available forms. Other items that were really fun were the ones which were created by combining two different lids by snapping them into each other without using other means to keep them together – I can spend quite a lot of time trying different combinations to see which ones will fit perfectly! And finally pieces that are very satisfying to make are the ones like the big multicharm necklace made out of a thick found chain, discarded key rings collected over some time and ring pulls from soy milk cartons, because every single element – even the clasp –  is a found object and so they are very special.

Plastic Seconds Juggling Balls NecklacePlastic Seconds Make Up Brush Pendant

What next?
I would like to make some even bigger, more complex pieces and perhaps find a way to source materials in a more organised way and a way that might have a wider positive impact. In terms of little things coming up, next week I am taking part in the filming of a new pilot show called Green Screen that introduces environmental thinking in a different light at the National Film and Television School, I am hopefully opening within June my ASOS marketplace boutique in the ethical boutiques section – next to 123 and Goodone! – and in July 29-31st I will be in the Upcycled Market section, curated by the Eco Design Fair, which is part of the Vintage Weekend at the Southbank Centre!

Plastic Seconds Large Lids Headpiece

Maria caught me marvelling at one of her recycled lid pendants at my ACOFI Book Tour evening at Tatty Devine a few weeks ago and has kindly offered to make me a pendant out of my old lids, so I’m busy collecting the most exciting ones. Turning *rubbish* into desirable jewellery, it doesn’t get much better than this!

Categories ,123, ,ASOS, ,Eco Design Fair, ,Ecodesign Fair, ,goodone, ,jewellery, ,Maria Papadimitriou, ,National Film and Television School, ,Plastic Seconds, ,recycled, ,Slowly the Eggs, ,Southbank centre, ,Upcycled

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Amelia’s Magazine | Renegade Craft Fair in London 2011 Review: Jewellery

Renegade Craft Fair London oct 2011 -Esoterica Bazaar
Now for my final Renegade Craft Fair blog post: the best of the jewellery.

Renegade Craft Fair London oct 2011 -Esoterica Bazaar
Renegade Craft Fair London oct 2011 -Esoterica Bazaar
Renegade Craft Fair London oct 2011 -Esoterica Bazaar
I totally and utterly fell in love with jewellery made by Caroline of Esoterica Bazaar, pharm who is based in Los Angeles. Her bold rings were displayed like gorgeous sweeties, what is ed and thus utterly irresistible to little ol’ me. She sources rare and unusual gems such as veined Ammolite, erectile aurora borealis enhanced Labradorite and many faceted crystal Pyrite (also known as Fool’s Gold).

Renegade Craft Fair London oct 2011 -Kirsty Kirkpatrick uncommonly Beautiful
Renegade Craft Fair London oct 2011 -Kirsty Kirkpatrick uncommonly Beautiful
It’s great news that there are now plenty of people upcycling vintage jewellery parts to create new pieces, but London based Kirsty Kirkpatrick of Uncommonly Beautiful stands out for her clever use of jewellery parts and unusual combinations of pieces: she uses bits of furniture, scrap leather and even broken suitcases in her designs. I also likes the way that she describes herself as anti-landfill, challenging preconceptions of waste.

Renegade Craft Fair London oct 2011 -The Weekend Store
Adjowah Brodie of the US based The Weekend Store specialises in upcycled parts as well. My eye was particularly drawn to unique necklaces, cufflinks and rings made from old typewriter keys.

Renegade Craft Fair London oct 2011 -Foamy Wader
Renegade Craft Fair London oct 2011 -Foamy Wader
Renegade Craft Fair London oct 2011 -Foamy Wader
Renegade Craft Fair London oct 2011 -Foamy Wader
Alexa Allamano of Seattle had travelled a long way to show her Foamy Wader jewellery collection. Her delicate pieces were beautifully displayed with miniature animals, and according to her website she also specialises in knitted beards. As you do.

Foamy Wader frozen necklace
Until next year Renegade Craft Fair! Don’t forget that if you are based in the US you can find their events all year round.

Categories ,2011, ,Adjowah Brodie, ,Alexa Allamano, ,Ammolite, ,Anti-Landfill, ,Aurora Borealis, ,Caroline, ,Esoterica Bazaar, ,Foamy Wader, ,Fool’s Gold, ,jewellery, ,Kirsty Kirkpatrick, ,Knitted Beards, ,london, ,Los Angeles, ,Pyrite, ,Renegade Craft Fair, ,seattle, ,The Weekend Store, ,Uncommonly Beautiful, ,Upcycled

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Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland S/S 2012 in Łódź: Showroom

Kollana Shoes by Celine Elliott
Kollana Shoes by Celine Elliott.

Time for a quick round up of the best brands that I found in the Showroom at Fashion Week Poland. Held in the industrial sized factory space between the catwalks, this was a chance to catch up with some interesting niche talent from Poland and beyond.

Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-Galadea
Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-Galadea
First up something a wee bit traditional: Galadea use embroidered folk designs from around Poland as the backbone to a range that includes arm cuffs and colourful belts.

Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-Agata Mocarska
This stand displayed bizarre dolls inspired by famous fashion creatures – in this case Anna Wintour – by designer Agata Mocarska.

Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-Malgorzata Bieniek-Straczek
Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-Malgorzata Bieniek-Straczek
Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-Malgorzata Bieniek-Straczek
Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-Malgorzata Bieniek-Straczek
I was delighted to find the work of an intriguing fashion illustrator on display. Malgorzata Bieniek-Straczek goes under the name of Maggie Piu, and that’s about all I can tell you as the press release was in Polish. Highly decorative stuff.

Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-Fiszerowa
Pretty beaded necklaces by Fiszerowa.

Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-Kollana
Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-Kollana
Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-Kollana
Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-Kollana
Shoes were a real winner – I especially liked these upcycled heels with appliqued animal motifs by Kollana.

Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-Lola Ramona
And there were more cute shoes covered in polka dots and bows at Danish brand Lola Ramona. You can buy Lola Ramona shoes in the UK on Zalando.

Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-Bartek Witek
Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-Bartek Witek
Bartek Witek had a fetching range of mens’ shirting.

Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-Manitic
Perspex necklaces caught my eye at Manitic.

Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-owl bags
Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-owl bags
Loved these hand crafted fabric owl bags. Sadly I’ve lost the business card so can’t tell you who made them, though I do know she makes each one by hand, and they were displayed on a fab gold papermache cow. Update! I know who made them now! They are by Monika Wyłoga.

Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-Ekoista
Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-Ekoista
Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-Ekoista
Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-ekoista
Over in the section dedicated to recycled and environmentally aware fashion I once again met Ekoista, otherwise known as Ania Rutkowska. She creates astonishing jewellery by bending the plastic waste from used drinks bottles.

Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-Dr. Martens
Lastly, Dr. Martens lent their shoes to many of the catwalk shows. Liking the flowery ones!

Categories ,Agata Mocarska, ,Ania Rutkowska, ,Anna Wintour, ,Appliqué, ,Bartek Witek, ,Belts, ,Bottles, ,Celine Elliott, ,Danish, ,Dr. Martens, ,Ekoista, ,Fashion Week Poland, ,Fiszerowa, ,Galadea, ,illustration, ,jewellery, ,Kollana, ,Lodz, ,Lola Ramona, ,Maggie Piu, ,Malgorzata Bieniek-Straczek, ,Manitic, ,menswear, ,Monika Wyłoga, ,owls, ,recycled, ,S/S 2012, ,Shirting, ,shoes, ,Showroom, ,Upcycled, ,Zalando

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Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland S/S 2012 in Łódź: Showroom

Kollana Shoes by Celine Elliott
Kollana Shoes by Celine Elliott.

Time for a quick round up of the best brands that I found in the Showroom at Fashion Week Poland. Held in the industrial sized factory space between the catwalks, this was a chance to catch up with some interesting niche talent from Poland and beyond.

Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-Galadea
Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-Galadea
First up something a wee bit traditional: Galadea use embroidered folk designs from around Poland as the backbone to a range that includes arm cuffs and colourful belts.

Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-Agata Mocarska
This stand displayed bizarre dolls inspired by famous fashion creatures – in this case Anna Wintour – by designer Agata Mocarska.

Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-Malgorzata Bieniek-Straczek
Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-Malgorzata Bieniek-Straczek
Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-Malgorzata Bieniek-Straczek
Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-Malgorzata Bieniek-Straczek
I was delighted to find the work of an intriguing fashion illustrator on display. Malgorzata Bieniek-Straczek goes under the name of Maggie Piu, and that’s about all I can tell you as the press release was in Polish. Highly decorative stuff.

Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-Fiszerowa
Pretty beaded necklaces by Fiszerowa.

Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-Kollana
Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-Kollana
Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-Kollana
Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-Kollana
Shoes were a real winner – I especially liked these upcycled heels with appliqued animal motifs by Kollana.

Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-Lola Ramona
And there were more cute shoes covered in polka dots and bows at Danish brand Lola Ramona. You can buy Lola Ramona shoes in the UK on Zalando.

Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-Bartek Witek
Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-Bartek Witek
Bartek Witek had a fetching range of mens’ shirting.

Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-Manitic
Perspex necklaces caught my eye at Manitic.

Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-owl bags
Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-owl bags
Loved these hand crafted fabric owl bags. Sadly I’ve lost the business card so can’t tell you who made them, though I do know she makes each one by hand, and they were displayed on a fab gold papermache cow. Update! I know who made them now! They are by Monika Wyłoga.

Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-Ekoista
Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-Ekoista
Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-Ekoista
Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-ekoista
Over in the section dedicated to recycled and environmentally aware fashion I once again met Ekoista, otherwise known as Ania Rutkowska. She creates astonishing jewellery by bending the plastic waste from used drinks bottles.

Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-Dr. Martens
Lastly, Dr. Martens lent their shoes to many of the catwalk shows. Liking the flowery ones!

Categories ,Agata Mocarska, ,Ania Rutkowska, ,Anna Wintour, ,Appliqué, ,Bartek Witek, ,Belts, ,Bottles, ,Celine Elliott, ,Danish, ,Dr. Martens, ,Ekoista, ,Fashion Week Poland, ,Fiszerowa, ,Galadea, ,illustration, ,jewellery, ,Kollana, ,Lodz, ,Lola Ramona, ,Maggie Piu, ,Malgorzata Bieniek-Straczek, ,Manitic, ,menswear, ,Monika Wyłoga, ,owls, ,recycled, ,S/S 2012, ,Shirting, ,shoes, ,Showroom, ,Upcycled, ,Zalando

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Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland Off Out Of Schedule S/S 2012 in Łódź: Paulina Plizga

Paulina Plizga S/S 2012 by Cruz
Paulina Plizga S/S 2012 by Cruz.

For her S/S 2012 collection Paulina Plizga was inspired by dance, so leading the Flesh & Bone collection down the catwalk was contemporary dancer Kaya Kolodziejczyk, who threw a series of crazy shapes in front of the unsuspecting crowd. The next models walked at a stately pace, some fast, some two by two or in hand – the back lighting emphasised their tousled hair and their blackened eye sockets gave the classical ballet aesthetic a dark, distressed edge. Paulina Plizga showed us a predominantly white collection with intermissions of grey, ochre and black in a range of textures, from holey knits and ancient lace to patchworked fabrics and reappropriated sheers.

Paulina Plizga SS 2012 by Geiko Louve
Paulina Plizga S/S 2012 by Geiko Louve.

When I spoke with Paulina Plizga after the show she described how all of her outfits are constructed from scraps which she forages from the couture houses in Paris (where she lives) and these are mixed with antique laces that she finds in markets. For relaxation she likes nothing better than to go to the cinema, and so recent viewings of Black Swan, The Red Shoes and Pina Bausch films helped form ideas for S/S 2012, along with the Greek story of Pygmalion, wherein a statue comes to life. This was a welcome second chance for me to view Paulina Plizga’s clever design aesthetics; read my review of Paulina Plizga‘s previous A/W 2011 collection here.

Paulina Plizga Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Paulina Plizga Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Paulina Plizga Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Paulina Plizga Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Paulina Plizga Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Paulina Plizga Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Paulina Plizga Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Paulina Plizga Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Paulina Plizga Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Paulina Plizga Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Paulina Plizga Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Paulina Plizga Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Paulina Plizga Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Paulina Plizga Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Paulina Plizga Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Paulina Plizga Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Paulina Plizga Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Paulina Plizga Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Paulina Plizga Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Paulina Plizga Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Paulina Plizga Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Paulina Plizga Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Paulina Plizga Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Paulina Plizga Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Paulina Plizga Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Paulina Plizga Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Paulina Plizga Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Paulina Plizga S/S 2012. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,ballet, ,Black Swan, ,couture, ,Cruz, ,dance, ,Eco fashion, ,Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland, ,Flesh & Bone, ,Geiko Louve, ,Kaya Kolodziejczyk, ,knitwear, ,Lodz, ,Off Out Of Schedule, ,paris, ,Patchwork, ,Paulina Plizga, ,Pina Bausch, ,Pygmalion, ,recycled, ,Red Shoes, ,Sheer, ,The Red Shoes, ,Upcycled

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Amelia’s Magazine | Central Saint Martins: Ba Hons Jewellery Graduate Show 2011 Review

Jing Jing Cao headdress
Headdress by Jing Jing Cao.

The Central Saint Martin Ba shows were held for the last time this year in the iconic Charing Cross building, visit before the courses depart for new accommodation in Kings Cross. What will happen to the beautiful vaulted hallways when they go? The caretaker couldn’t tell me…

I can’t help but love jewellery – whilst I’ll happily bypass the graphic design stands if there’s a glint of precious gem I’m in there, help nosing around. The Ba Jewellery offering was a mixed bag – much of it did not appeal to me at all but the designs that did grabbed my attention good and proper. Below are the best designers I found.

Kerry Huff
I was attracted to Kerry Huff‘s rough gemstone jewellery based on natural patterns even before I realised that she had sourced all her materials ethically… and is also passionate about fair-trade practice. How joyous to find students tackling design with a firm grounding in the implications of their work.

Hee Jung Son
Hee Jung Son also worked with recycled lids to create a well presented range of colourful rings on silver bases.

Yung-Han Tsai
Central Saint Martins jewellery graduate exhibition 2011 Yung-Han Tsai
Yung-Han Tsai reappropriated everyday objects and transformed them into something new – in this case she clumped bundles of headphones (I’m hoping they were recycled or upcycled) into sculptural forms.

Bonnie Yiu
Bonnie Yiu did some strange and wonderful things with copper wire and paper which produced curvaceous necklaces and bangles with detailed patterns that bore closer examination.

Central Saint Martins jewellery graduate exhibition 2011 Wenhui Li
Wenhui Li pink ring
Wenhui Li
Wenhui Li showed a fabulous display of coloured mixed media rings featuring strange alienesque bulbous shapes. See more on Wenhui Li’s website.

Lauren Colover
I didn’t notice Lauren Colover‘s work when I was at the exhibition but the piece she has chosen for the catalogue is stunning – based on a Ginkgo Biloba leaf and encrusted on the underside with semi precious stones.

Min Yoo
Min Kjung Yoo created some amazing hybrid creatures from a mix of resin, precious metals and gems. Some were far more out there than this particular frog/dolphin specimen – see her website.

Jing Jing Cao
Jing Jing Cao produced stunning brass and acrylic ruffs that spread around the face like a stylised human frame.

Anna Heasman barter bangle
In her final year Anna has found herself questioning the meaning of jewellery as simply adornment but rather as a means of exchange. Inspired by primitive forms of exchange (or indeed, some might say the most postmodern way to live) Anna Heasman offered exhibition attendees the chance to Barter for a Bangle. How could I resist? I offered to write about her here if she gave me a particularly fetching gold twisted number. But I haven’t heard from her yet, and look, here I am writing about her anyway. Clearly I’m not so good at bartering.

Central Saint Martins jewellery graduate exhibition 2011 Anna Heasman Barter Bangles
One of the most intriguing things were the other barters on offer, everything from a list of herbal medicines to other bits of jewellery, cupcakes and a drink on the town. If it wasn’t so incredibly frowned upon to take photos at the CSM shows I would have taken more snapshots of the amazing array of offered goods and services. Some of them can be viewed on Anna Heasman’s Tumblr.

Still to come… my favourite finds from the Jewellery MA.

Categories ,2011, ,Acrylic, ,Anna Heasman, ,Barter Bangles, ,Bonnie Yiu, ,brass, ,Central Saint Martins, ,Copper, ,Eco-Design, ,ethical, ,fairtrade, ,Gems, ,Ginkgo Biloba, ,Graduate Shows, ,Hee Jung Son, ,Hybrid, ,jewellery, ,Jing Jing Cao, ,Kerry Huff, ,Lauren Colover, ,Min Kjung Yoo, ,paper, ,Precious Metal, ,recycled, ,Resin, ,review, ,Silver, ,Upcycled, ,Wenhui Li, ,Yung-Han Tsai

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Amelia’s Magazine | Central Saint Martins: MA Design Jewellery Graduate Show 2011 Review

Tourmaline Boa pendant by Gwyneth Harris
Tourmaline Boa pendant by Gwyneth Harris.

There were two jewellers that caught my eye from the MA Design course that covers Ceramics, information pills Furniture and Jewellery at Central Saint Martins. Gwyneth Harris‘s Boa Collection was absolutely exquisite: an exploration of surface qualities through shape, generic colour, tone and pattern, inspired by the sinuous lines of snakes. She used German lapidary experts to create her beautiful winding tourmaline pendant, which was first carved in wax. Everything was created in shifting shades of red, her favourite colour. Gorgeous, I wanted to wear every piece.

bite me pendant by Gabrielle Harris
Bite Me pendant by Gabrielle Rosanna Harris. Diamond, Topaz and Gold.

Gabrielle Rosanna Harris first trained in Paris, where she did a range of work experience in exclusive Parisian jewellery workshops such as Boucheron. It was in these joaillerie that she learnt the techniques for setting stones that have so influenced her final collection. I was most entranced by the way she has turned the settings upside down and back to front to achieve a bold new look for The High End Jewellery Etiquette, where the setting of the stone has become the most important part of the design.

It’s a real shame I can’t show you more of these jewellers’ work, but photos were not permitted in the exhibition and images were hard to come by. If you like this why not check out my previous blog about the Ba Jewellery show?

Categories ,Boa Collection, ,Boucheron, ,Central Saint Martins, ,Diamond, ,Diamonds, ,french, ,Gabrielle Rosanna Harris, ,Gold, ,jewellery, ,Lapidary, ,MA Design, ,paris, ,Snakes, ,The High End Jewellery Etiquette, ,Topaz, ,Tourmaline

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Amelia’s Magazine | Charlie May: London Fashion Week A/W 2013 Catwalk Review

Charlie May A/W 2013 by Chloe Douglass
Charlie May A/W 2013 by Chloe Douglass.

There was plenty of buzz surrounding Charlie May‘s second catwalk show thanks to her status as a blogging fashion designer, so I wasn’t surprised to see many familiar faces so early on a Sunday morning outside the Ice Tank. Charlie is a designer of the minimalist ilk and she had chosen an apt venue to showcase her new collection: a photography studio with a white infinity curve against which the models paused for photographs.

Charlie May AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Charlie May AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Charlie May AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Charlie May AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Charlie May AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Charlie May AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Charlie May AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Charlie May A/W 2013 by Jane Young
Charlie May A/W 2013 by Jane Young.

The collection, which had been inspired by ice, rock and fire, began in crisp white: sheer polo necks worn beneath wide lapelled tailored wool coats, with pencil skirts and sheer black tights. A roll neck knit was worn under an ostrich skin biker jacket and there was a distinct 80s vibe to the oversized blazers. Red lips worked beautifully with a simple silk shift dress and an A-line maxi dress accessorised with a simple black clutch bag by Danielle Foster. Moving swiftly through a few black, wine and gunmetal grey garments we arrived at my favourite looks, a cherry red dress and skinny leg suit. Charlie May successfully mixed textures and tones to bring subtle interest to her minimalist aesthetic, and I’ll be intrigued to see what she comes up with next.

Charlie May AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Charlie May AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Charlie May AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Charlie May AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Charlie May AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Charlie May AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Charlie May AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Charlie May A/W 2013. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Charlie May AW13 by Isher Dhiman
Charlie May A/W 2013 by Isher Dhiman.

Categories ,A/W 2013, ,Charlie May, ,Chloe Douglass, ,Danielle Foster, ,Girl a la Mode, ,Ice Tank, ,Isher Dhiman, ,Jane Young, ,London Fashion Week, ,review

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Amelia’s Magazine | Ciel: meet ethical fashion designer Sarah Ratty

Ciel S/S 2011 by Jo Cheung
Ciel S/S 2011 by Jo Cheung.

Sarah Ratty set up the label Conscious Earthwear in the early 90’s before creating the Ciel brand in 2005, website like this no rx which we profiled in the print version of Amelia’s Magazine. She currently also works as a design consultant and advises the Soil Association on sustainable issues.

How do you design your garments?
Each collection has its roots in the way I have developed as an eco fashion designer over the last twenty years. I usually start with fabrics, ambulance then I think about what garment shapes will best fit into the current zeitgeist and I combine these with my own influences from contemporary art, order travel, history and nature. I use as many innovative approaches as I can in fabrication and cutting techniques, as well as using the naturally diverse fabrics from a range of indigenous locations, which are made and developed in situ.

What is the best way to design ethically?
Within eco design there is inevitably some compromise but I always do my best to find the best materials to achieve the desired outcome. I use fairtrade materials and organic fabrics from factories in Europe and South America, all of which comply with fair labour laws as set out by Labour Behind the Label. We use azo-free dyes, which do not use harmful metal mordants to fix the colour. Heavy metals are highly polluting and contribute to toxic soil runoff if not treated correctly. We have recently started to bring some production back to the UK and we conduct a lot of our work via Skype to reduce our carbon footprint…

Read the rest of this interview with Ciel in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration, alongside interviews with 44 other ethical fashion designers and 30 fabulous fashion illustrators. You can buy the book here.

Categories ,ACOFI, ,Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration, ,azo-free dyes, ,Carbon footprint, ,ciel, ,Conscious Earthwear, ,Design Consultant, ,Eco fashion, ,Ethical Fashion, ,fairtrade, ,Jo Cheung, ,Labour behind the Label, ,organic, ,Sarah Ratty, ,Skype, ,Soil Association

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Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland Off Out Of Schedule A/W 2011 in Łódź: Maldoror

Maldoror Off Out ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011 by Fawn Carr
Maldoror A/W 2011 by Fawn Carr.

The hissing sighs of Diamandas Galas provided the musical backdrop to this edgy show from Maldoror by Grzegorz Matl?g, pills which featured street cast models who I had seen around already in the audience at Fashion Week Poland – a refreshing change from the same old faces on every catwalk. Black outfits opened the show, high necked and lacy for both men and women, culminating in a butt revealing suit made entirely of net. Grzegorz Matl?g works with recycled materials, his aim being to challenge the wearer “to create their own look without the cultural restraints and defects of consumerism.” High ideals indeed, and ones which I of course heartily applaud.

Maldoror by Rebecca Strickson
Maldoror by Rebecca Strickson.

Things really started hotting up for me with the introduction of bright devilish red. I particularly loved the short-legged man’s red silk shantung suit paired with shiny red loafers and tied loosely at the waist, followed by a round shouldered coat for women and two interesting sequinned patchwork pieces.

Maldoror Off Out ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia Gregory

Maldoror had constructed some stunning garments for this show but as was true of many other Polish collections successful ideas were not developed to their full potential with The Accuser – which was a shame because I love what he is doing. The show ended to the sound of clanging bells, again. A sound which was done to death at Fashion Week Poland, but which was just about justified in this case. Maldoror is available in the UK at Not Just a Label.

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Maldoror A/W 2011. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,bells, ,black, ,Diamandas Galas, ,Eco fashion, ,Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland, ,Fashion Week Poland, ,Fawn Carr, ,Grzegorz Matląg, ,Lodz, ,Maldoror, ,Not Just a Label, ,Off Out Of Schedule, ,Palgue Mass, ,Rebecca Strickson, ,recycled, ,Red, ,The Accuser, ,Upcycled

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