Amelia’s Magazine | Ong-Oaj Pairam: London Fashion Week A/W 2014 Catwalk Review

Ong-Oaj Pairam by Robyn Wilson-Owen

Ong-Oaj Pairam by Robyn Wilson-Owen.

Brighton University graduate Ong-Oaj Pairam built on his first Fashion Scout catwalk collection, with a slick offering designed to appeal to ladies who lunch… and go out to lots of lavish parties. His muse for the season was Ursula from Disney’s Little Mermaid though this wasn’t immediately apparent in this 50s influenced collection, which included pretty cinch waist crop jackets and matching pants, A-line skirts and swing dresses for daytime, following through to dramatic embellished strapless floor sweeping frocks for night, all worn with plump red lips and carefree updos.

Ong-Oaj Pairam AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Ong-Oaj Pairam AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Ong-Oaj Pairam AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Ong-Oaj Pairam AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Ong-Oaj Pairam AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Ong-Oaj Pairam AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Ong-Oaj Pairam AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Ong-Oaj Pairam AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Ong-Oaj Pairam A/W 2014 by Angelica Moreno

Ong-Oaj Pairam A/W 2014 by Angelica Moreno.

Bright primary colours were worn with more subtle monochrome prints that were inspired by the markings of dangerous animals and the work of famous illustrator Charlie Harper. For the man who might care to dabble in high fashion there were some dapper leather jackets and a fabulous high collared pillar box red suit with peacoat styling.

Ong-Oaj Pairam AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Ong-Oaj Pairam AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Ong-Oaj Pairam AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Ong-Oaj Pairam AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Ong-Oaj Pairam AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Ong-Oaj Pairam AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Ong-Oaj Pairam AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Ong-Oaj Pairam AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Ong-Oaj Pairam AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,A/W 2014, ,Angelica Moreno, ,Brighton University, ,Charlie Harper, ,Disney, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Little Mermaid, ,Ong-Oaj Pairam, ,Robyn Wilson-Owen, ,Ursula

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Amelia’s Magazine | Felder Felder: London Fashion Week A/W 2013 Catwalk Review

Felder Felder by Angelica Moreno
Felder Felder A/W 2013 by Angelica Moreno

Queuing is an absolute pain and I spent the majority of my first day at London Fashion Week doing just that, well, that and also giggling at all the hilarious fashion peacocks pouting and posing at street style photographers.

Felder Felder AW13
After spending an excruciating amount of time waiting to see Felder Felder at the BFC Courtyard Showspace, I finally got in, got my free popcorn and walked past some recognisable front row-ers like Mollie King, Marina from Marina and the Diamonds and of course Kate Nash, who performed at last season’s runway.

FelderFelder A/W13
Texture would be the keyword to describe the Felder Felder A/W 2013 show, which featured tailored wool outerwear, velvet bouclé, knit and leather, latex and chiffon, all in classic autumn shades. Various combinations of these materials strutted down the runway to a remix of Venus in Furs, a fitting soundtrack for a modern take on the 1970’s. Personal standout pieces for me were the peach latex trench with a velvet bouclé crop top and the finale, featuring a pair of blondes in grey and white faux fur coats.

Felder Felder A/W13 by Charlotte Edey
Felder Felder A/W 2013 by Charlotte Edey

The collection felt more mature than last season but still had the Felder twins’ signature girly rock ‘n’ roll aesthetic. A lot of the pieces would appeal to young girls shopping in the mass market, so expect to see numerous latex cigarette trousers at a high street shop near you soon; unfortunately wearing these would be disastrous for some.

Felder Felder A/W 13
Felder Felder by Sarah Bogott
Felder Felder A/W 2013 by Sarah Bogott

Felder Felder A/W13
All photography by Alex Kessler

Categories ,70’s, ,Angelica Moreno, ,BFC Courtyard Showspace, ,Charlotte Edey, ,Felder Felder, ,Kate Nash, ,London Fashion Week, ,Marina and The Diamonds, ,Mollie King, ,Sarah Bogott, ,Venus in Furs

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Amelia’s Magazine | Jena.Theo: London Fashion Week A/W 2013 Catwalk Review

Jena Theo AW13 LFW by Charlotte Edey
Jena Theo A/W 2013 by Charlotte Edey

The Smiley faces dripping with acid plastered across the walls and Aphex Twin’s Window Licker as soundtrack set the tone for a trippy Jena.Theo show in the Portico Rooms at Somerset House.

Jena Theo A/W 13
Each model stepped out with matching tangelo lips and patent platform booties to stand together, sullenly cool and untouchable like the mean girls at school; which meant that of course I immediately wanted to be their best friend.

Jena Theo AW13 by Sarah Bogott
Jena Theo A/W 2013 by Sarah Bogott

The Jena.Theo colour palette was brave, with acidic pops of fuchsia, green, yellow and orange juxtaposed against black and gold. The textures provided another contrast; stiff denim and leather merging with soft silk and suede. The silhouette of this collection was voluminous; with tops worn several sizes too big and skirts dramatically flared or bubbled in various lengths.

Jena Theo A/W13

Favourites were the suede fuchsia drop-shoulder sweater paired with silky harem trousers and the over-sized fold over t-shirt dress in colourful graphic print with a giant orange smiley face sprayed across the front, worn with a bad-ass choker.

Jena Theo by Angelica Moreno
Jena Theo A/W 2013 by Angelica Moreno

There was reference to Hunter S. Thompson’s book Hell’s Angels, with this quote as the show inspiration: “The girls stood in a group, wearing bright lipstick and the black, wary expressions of half bright souls turned mean and nervous from too much bitter wisdom in too few years.” You would not funk with these girls, but my goodness did I want their clothes.

Jena Theo A/W13
All photography by Alex Kessler

Categories ,90s, ,Angelica Moreno, ,Aphex Twin, ,Charlotte Edey, ,çv, ,Hell’s Angels, ,Hunter S. Thompson, ,Jena.theo, ,London Fashion Week, ,Portico Rooms, ,rave, ,Sarah Bogott, ,Smiley faces, ,Somerset House, ,Window Licker

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Amelia’s Magazine | Corrie Nielsen: London Fashion Week S/S 2013 Catwalk Preview Interview

Interview with Corrie Nielsen, Illustration by Rosa ad Carlotta Crepax, Illustrated Moodboard
Corrie Nielsen S/S 2012 preview by Rosa and Carlotta Crepax, Illustrated Moodboard.

Fashion designer Corrie Nielsen has been wowing us here at Amelia’s Magazine for a number of seasons so we were very excited to discover that for S/S 2013 she has worked in close partnership with Kew… here she describes how the collaboration came about and what we can expect from the new Kew inspired collection.

I am very excited about your upcoming S/S 2013 show, which was done in conjunction with Kew Gardens: how did this relationship come about?
I knew that I wanted to base the season on plants and flowers, so the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew was the natural first port of call. It is one of my favourite spaces in London. The whole studio went to Kew together and we took countless photos, which are plastered all over the studio walls. My PR, Courtney Blackman, ended up meeting Kew’s Chairman of the Board at an event and if you know her, she makes things happen. The rest is history. They were really excited that my collection would be all about Kew.

Corrie Nielsen Corrie thinking about plants on a bench under a tree at Kew
Corrie Nielsen Peony 038_Pae_dau_ - from KEW ARCHIVE
Your interest in history is well known, how did you take inspiration from the original documentation of Charles Darwin’s journeys, which are stored in the Kew libraries?
After the first studio trip to Kew, I took a secondary trip with my business partners and that’s when we got to explore the seed libraries, browse through Darwin’s original letters, etc. I’m fascinated by the concept of Darwin’s ‘The Origin of the Species’ – seeing his letters was an unbelievable honour. I’ve taken that concept and really explored it by researching actual blueprints of plants and flowers. The complexity is staggering and in tranfering the research into the clothes, I’ve really had to employ serious engineering to some of my more sculpted pieces .

Corrie Nielsen Swarovski Collective by Catherine Moody
Corrie Nielsen S/S 2013 preview illustration by Catherine Moody.

Can we expect to see any other influences from Kew – for example are there any particular seeds, flowers, trees or other plants that have inspired the new collection?
Tulips, peony roses and even the Victorian glass houses of Kew influence the range.

Corrie Nielsen Stairs in a glass house at Kew
Corrie Nielsen One of my favourite shapes at Kew
How do you process this information? eg do you take photos and then create mood boards?
Photos, photos, photos and I study individual specimens. My studio walls are one giant mood board. I also research a lot online for further development once I have the concept in mind.

Corrie mood board
Corrie Nielsen The Peacock
How often have you visited Kew in preparation for this season’s catwalk show? Any particularly fond memories that you can share with us…
I’ve gone a couple of times and had a very friendly experience with one of the garden’s peacocks. Being able to go into the seed libraries and seeing all the varied specimens that Kew works with was staggering.

corrie mood
What kinds of fabrics feature in the new collection and where were they sourced from?
I’m working with a lot of silk: metal-infused silks, gradient silks and cotton and lightweight wool. I source most of my fabrics from France.

Corrie Nielsen Team Corrie Nielsen at Kew
What else can we expect from the show in terms of styling and production?
Rebekah Roy will be styling the show and for a second season, Emma Yeo will be creating headpieces. She’s so talented. AOFM Pro’s Yin Lee is doing the makeup again – I love working with her. She really gets the brand. TONI&GUY are doing the hair and we are working exclusively with M&P Models, so every single model on the catwalk will be from M&P. And lastly, once again my collection will be named after a Medieval Latin word…

Corrie Nielsen by Zulekha Lakeca
Corrie Nielsen by Zulekha Lakeca.

Corrie Nielsen shows at the BFC space on Friday 14th September 2012. After London Fashion Week Corrie Nielsen will be exhibiting in Paris at Vendôme Luxury Tradeshow at Le Meurice Hotel, 75001.

Categories ,AOFM Pro, ,Catherine Moody, ,Charles Darwin, ,Corrie Nielsen, ,Courtney Blackman, ,Emma Yeo, ,Illustrated Moodboard, ,Kew, ,Le Meurice Hotel, ,M&P Models, ,Rebekah Roy, ,Rosa and Carlotta Crepax, ,Royal Botanic Gardens, ,The Origin of the Species, ,Vendôme Luxury Tradeshow, ,Yin Lee, ,Zulekha Lakeca

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