Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2014: Off Strand exhibition at Hoxton Gallery

Mury print scarves

During London Fashion Week I popped in to the off schedule Off Strand presentation at Hoxton Gallery in East London, a well curated and beautifully presented show organised by Anna of the Pitchouguina label. First discovery: the beautiful abstract print scarves above, by ethical accessories brand Mury.

Niza Huang ring

I have previously admired jewellery by Niza Huang at Somerset House, but her new range looks even better: riffing on the ever popular roughly hewn look. I was very sad to hear that someone had stolen one of her pieces shortly before my visit (what a bastard, but small comfort that at least he had good taste). I am sure she will do well, especially with a number of delicate new pieces currently in the pipeline.

Arlette Ess scarves

Arlette Ess is a former model, graphic designer and mother who is now applying her illustrative skills to a range of gorgeous scarves.

Alexa de Castilho necklaces

Pineapple and palm tree spinning disc pendants have a definite 80s vibe, designed by Alexa De Castilho. Her display featured a pair of gold ceramic prancing horses, found for a song in a car boot sale. Jealous, moi?

goodone bomber knit

I was really happy to discover that Goodone (who vanished for a year or so) is back again, this time with a range of brilliant jumpers, dresses and bomber jackets that feature remnants of upcycled aran jumpers. These are manufactured in their Bulgarian factory, which also offers sustainable manufacturing to other brands. Designer Nin Castle is currently pregnant and now living in Spain but her collection looked better than ever. Amazing stuff. And I so want one of those knitted bomber jackets.

Gina Melosi jewels

I loved the use of fair trade raw gems and recycled metals in elegantly displayed jewellery by Gina Melosi.

pitchouguina bryksenkova collaboration

Finally, but of course by no means least, it was ace to see the last two Pitchouguina collections, which combine unusual colours and fabrics to create unique but highly wearable garments. I immediately homed in on a new piece that featured a beautiful and instantly recognisable illustration, by none other than our much loved Yelena Bryksenkova, who has of course worked with Amelia’s Magazine for many years. You can read my recent interview with Anna here.

You can read my review of the exhibition stands at Somerset House here.

Categories ,A/W 2014, ,Alexa De Castilho, ,Arlette Ess, ,Ecofashion, ,ethical, ,Gina Melosi, ,goodone, ,Hoxton Gallery, ,London Fashion Week, ,Mury, ,Nin Castle, ,Niza Huang, ,Off Strand, ,Pitchouguina, ,Report, ,review, ,Yelena Bryksenkova

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Amelia’s Magazine | Liz Black: London Fashion Week A/W 2014 Presentation Review

Liz Black A/W 2014 by Karolina Burdon

Liz Black A/W 2014 by Karolina Burdon.

For Fashion Meets Paranoia designer Liz Black once again explored the more conceptual end of fashion, this time visiting the world of the surrealists to present an engaging showcase where models posed and pouted with fake moustaches, lobster eyebrows and eyes painted on carefully placed hands. These accessories were an echo of the clothing. When I watched the presentation it was the puffy lips skirt dress which stole the show, shown alongside an A-line caramel leather dress with a gigantic horn-like moustache chest embellishment. With these more outrageous garments Liz Black showed simpler A-line dresses and separates that adhered to her minimalist aesthetic, in a tasty palette of gold, jade and blood red.

Liz Black AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Liz Black AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,A/W 2014, ,Fashion Meets Paranoia, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Karolina Burdon, ,Liz Black, ,Presentation, ,review, ,surrealist

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Amelia’s Magazine | George Styler: Fashion Scout Ones to Watch, London Fashion Week A/W 2014 Catwalk Review

George Styler A/W 2014 By Antonia Parker

George Styler A/W 2014 by Antonia Parker.

George Styler AW 2014-black spike shoulders

George Styler AW 2014-green spike top

George Styler AW 2014-legs

George Styler AW 2014-mask

George Styler AW 2014-mini dress

George Styler A/W 2014 by Slowly The Eggs aka Maria Papadimitriou

George Styler A/W 2014 by Slowly The Eggs aka Maria Papadimitriou.

Serbian fashion designer George Styler was a major crowd pleaser at Ones to Watch, showcasing a collection dominated by his heavily embellished knitwear. Think spiky shouldered jackets, rainbow sequinned leggings, thickly embroidered knitwear, pompoms, gold coins and ruffles aplenty. Models wore their hair in complex braids, sometimes topped with folk style crowns. There were a few menswear outfits thrown in for good measure, and perhaps with commercialisation in mind George had boldly applied his name to branded leggings which were sent down the catwalk accompanied by a matching holdall. In a rather delightful touch all front row guests received a mirrored heart magnet; an old fashioned East European traditional gift for Valentine’s Day. This was not a collection for the minimalists.

George Styler A/W 2014 by Karolina Burdon

George Styler A/W 2014 by Karolina Burdon.

George Styler AW 2014-mustard legs

George Styler AW 2014-pink cape

George Styler AW 2014-pink sleeves

George Styler AW 2014-rainbow legs

George Styler AW 2014-stripe legs

George Styler AW 2014-thigh socks

George Styler A/W 2014 by Mitika Suri

George Styler A/W 2014 by Mitika Suri.

The show notes reveal that this collection, titled Network, was influenced by a double meaning of the concept, both the idea of interweaving between cultures in our globalised world, and also the lack of real contact in a society reliant on the virtual web. I’m not sure I would have grasped the second aspect of this idea, but overall lthe collection reminded me of a look that was briefly popular in the late 80s and early 90s thanks to the likes of MC Kinky. You remember Everything Starts With An ‘E’? Of course you do…. or maybe I’m just showing my age.

George Styler AW 2014-portrait

All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,A/W 2014, ,Antonia Parker, ,Everything Starts With An ‘E’, ,Fashion Scout, ,George Styler, ,Karolina Burdon, ,Maria Papadimitriou, ,MC Kinky, ,Mitika Chohan, ,Mitika Suri, ,Network, ,Ones To Watch, ,Slowly the Eggs, ,Valentine’s Day

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Amelia’s Magazine | Hiroko Nakajima: Fashion Scout Ones to Watch, London Fashion Week A/W 2014 Catwalk Review

Hiroko Nakajima A/W 2014 by Emma Farrarons

Hiroko Nakajima A/W 2014 by Emma Farrarons.

Japanese born London based knitwear designer Hiroko Nakajima is another Central Saint Martins graduate with an intriguing approach to fashion design. Her philosophy is that ‘The human body takes a backseat to the graphic, but upon wear, reappears as one with the artwork.’ Her new collection of bodycon cashmere dresses worn with bright tights and classic stilettos was a wonderfully bold celebration of graphics as worn on the body, inspired by the Bauhaus.

Hiroko Nakajima by Slowly The Eggs aka Maria Papadimiriou

Hiroko Nakajima by Slowly The Eggs aka Maria Papadimiriou.

Hiroko Nakajima AW 2014-red dress

Hiroko Nakajima AW 2014-handbag

Hiroko Nakajima AW 2014-green top

Hiroko Nakajima AW 2014-pink bag

Hiroko Nakajima AW 2014-red bag

Hiroko Nakajima AW 2014-red hat

Hiroko Nakajima AW 2014-yellow skirt

Hiroko Nakajima AW 2014-back view

Hiroko Nakajima A/W 2014 by Emma Farrarons

Hiroko Nakajima A/W 2014 by Emma Farrarons.

I love the way that Hiroko Nakajima employs intarsia to create big asymmetric shapes and eye catching slashes of colour. Great curves of knit that draped artfully around the shoulders like Delauney shawls were particularly successful, as were the mini geometric clutch accessories and pointy knitted hats, which could have looked ridiculous but somehow worked beautifully. This is what all knitwear should be like: totally wearable, flattering and so much fun. I had no shortage of illustrators volunteering to draw this collection, and I can see the appeal!

Hiroko Nakajima by Kimberley Ellen Hall

Hiroko Nakajima by Kimberly Ellen Hall.

Hiroko Nakajima AW 2014-portrait

All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,A/W 2014, ,bauhaus, ,bodycon, ,Cashmere, ,Central Saint Martins, ,Emma Farrarons, ,Fashion Scout, ,Hiroko Nakajima, ,Intarsia, ,Kimberly Ellen Hall, ,knitwear, ,Maria Papadimiriou, ,Ones To Watch, ,review, ,Slowly the Eggs, ,Sonia Delauney

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Amelia’s Magazine | Jean-Pierre Braganza: London Fashion Week A/W 2014 Catwalk Review

Jean-Pierre Braganza A/W 2014 by xplusyequals

Jean-Pierre Braganza A/W 2014 by xplusyequals.

For A/W 2014 Jean-Pierre Braganza showcased his signature intergalactic prints on assymetric draped dresses, boxy front shirts and a tie fronted pant suit. Up close the galaxy swirls revealed limbs, faces and delicate geometric patterns… a nod to the work of Italian Baroque painter Artemisia Gentileschi, whose paintings feature strong women from myths and the Bible. Monochrome swirls again appeared writ large on a louche sweater top that I would be more than happy to get my hands on, worn with zippered leather trousers and a wispy plait.

Jean-Pierre Braganza AW 2014-trench coat dress

Jean-Pierre Braganza AW 2014-two

Jean-Pierre Braganza AW 2014-crop

Jean-Pierre Braganza AW 2014-sweater

Jean Pierre Braganza by Harriet Alice Fox

Jean Pierre Braganza A/W 2014 by Harriet Alice Fox.

Braganza‘s speciality is combining fluid tailoring with more structured pieces, and some of the strongest pieces were a couple of stunning boxy textured overcoats. As a creator of clothing for strong independent women the zenith of this collection were eye-catching placement prints of Gentileschi‘s ladies on box tops and A-line skirts. Once again Braganza has made a beautiful collection that further refines his futuristic aesthetic whilst incorporating intriguing references in an innovative way.

Jean-Pierre Braganza AW 2014-coat

Jean-Pierre Braganza AW 2014-short sleeved coat

Jean-Pierre Braganza AW 2014-artemesia dress

Jean-Pierre Braganza AW 2014-artemesia print dress

All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,A/W 2014, ,Artemisia Gentileschi, ,Artimisia, ,Harriet Alice Fox, ,Jean Pierre Braganza, ,Report, ,review, ,Somerset House, ,xplusyequals

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Amelia’s Magazine | Craig Lawrence

When you think of the humble pom-pom you think of children’s clothes, order buy of gigantic sombreros for tourists, generic unsightly snow boots and poodles with dodgy haircuts. Experimenting with pom-poms always seemed to be a bit like tequila shots – one was fun, two was adventurous, any more was way overboard and enough to make you gag.
NOT ANY MORE! Somebody somewhere decided it was time to wrench those pom-poms from the cheerleader’s sweaty grasp and boom! Stick them in the right places and we’re in love – and it turns out you can have hundreds of them!

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They might have come to our attention bobbling out all over the catwalks in fashion week and with the high street following suit, but this is a look that could be even cheaper for the creative recessionistas amongst you. Make your own! Check it.
If you ever find yourself sat staring into space on the tube, you could be churning out a whole lot of pom-poms instead. Worn the right way I think it’s a really easy and fun accessory to jazz up an outfit– this cute Peter Jensen ring as a prime example:

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We’ve seen some girls wearing them in their hair, which make a nice woolly alternative to bows, and of course the contentious scrunchie.

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BIGGER:

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BIGGEST:

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THE KITCHEN SINK:

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Don’t be wearing those in the cinema mind you.

It’s amazing that something so simple has been culturally reinterpreted so often over the course of history. That might sound grand but something that’s gone from dangling off the edges of sun hats in Central America, to being mass marketed to children all over the world to making on the Paris catwalks is pretty unique. Yikes, Pom Pom international even reckons they can promote world peace. Maybe that’s one tequila too many. Sporting them could almost seem a throwback to childhood, a fashion revival harking back to the days of hats and mittens (I’d like to say ‘and snow and toboggans’ but let’s face it, it doesn’t snow THAT often).
The last thing we can learn about pom-poms is from cheerleaders everywhere, who if nothing else, seem mind-bogglingly happy. Why? POM-POMS!
“At a T-cross-section go to the left. On your left hand you will see a hill. At the end of the hill, tadalafil on the top, this you will see a green cottage. That is where you can find me. If I am not there I might be outside doing some experiments.”
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Holland’s answer to a modern day Darwin, Theo Jansen has spent the last 19 years playing god and taking evolution into his own hands. An arrogant way to spend the best part of two decades you might say, but not when you see what incredible results this passing of time has produced. Jansen’s kinetic creature creations exist in a carefully crafted overlap of art and engineering.
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From a physics background to a study of painting via an interest in aeronautics and robotics Jansen arrived at 1990 with a thirst for breathing autonomous life into mechanical sculpture. What started as a highly technical computer animation program is now only reliant on the power of the wind with no machine assistance and only minimal human input required, and even that Jansen hopes to eventually phase out.
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My personal attraction to what Jansen does comes from my deep seated loathing of plastic waste, which he cleverly conquers by incorporating discarded plastic bottles as part of a complicated wind energy storage system and he sources metres and metres and metres of yellow plastic tubing- 375 tubes per animal to be exact- to create the skeletons for his beautiful monsters.
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He claims he started to use the plastic tubing because it was unbelievably cheap and readily available although he quickly discovered that a more perfect material for the project would be hard to find as they are both flexible and multifunctional. He draws comparisons between the plastic required in his art and the protein required for life forms. “in nature, everything is almost made of protein and you have various uses of protein; you can make nails, hair, skin and bones. There’s a lot of variety in what you can do with just one material and this is what I try to do as well.”
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The heads of his giant beings act as sails, directing the intricate frames to glide gracefully across the nearby beaches to Jansen’s home and laboratory. The insect-like wings catch gusts of wind and propel the body forward. When there is no wind not even for ready money, the stored energy in the belly of the beasts can be utilized.
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Jansen’s vision is of a landscape populated by herds of these sculptures taking on entire lives of their own. The versions of models that made it into existence have raced and won survival of the fittest contests through his computer program and having studied these ‘winners’ Jansen designed creatures so developed they are even capable of self preservation, burrowing themselves in the sand when the gusts are too powerful for them to use constructively.
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His imagination like his Strandbeests (literally translated as ‘Beach Animal) is an ever evolving self perfecting organ. He envisions a point at which he will release his creations ‘into the wild’, which he speaks about in the same loving tone you would expect from a parent preparing their nest to be flown by their offspring. “I imagine that two animals will meet each other and compare their qualities in some way; have a demonstration somewhere on how they run and how fast they can run and also do some quality comparison on how they survive the winds. And the one with the better quality kills the other one and gives the other its own genetic code. There could be 30 animals on the beach, running around all the time, copying genetic codes. And then it would go on without me.” It’s not so far fetched after all to consider what Jansen does as god-like. He plainly and rather humbly philosophizes, “I try to remake nature with the idea that while doing this you will uncover the secrets of life and that you will meet the same problems as the real creator,” he added. Theo Jansen is simply a genius though his genius is far from simple. Amen.

It has been a while since I have found a political party that I feel that I can get behind. Politics seem to have descended into a misguided mess. Anytime I read about a Tory or Labour MP, more about it is usually because of a scandal. What is going on environmentally and economically seems to play second fiddle to infighting and lies. Meanwhile, living in East London, I have become friends with a couple of people who are involved in the Hackney Green Party. They don’t seem to lie, or cheat, or claim expenses – this is a party that I can support! I wanted to find out more about them, so I sat down for a cup of tea with Matt Hanley, who is the Green candidate for Stoke Newington Central.

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Illustration by Jessica Pemberton

I really liked the political broadcast; I thought it was very astute. The message is not that we have to step outside of our comfortable lives, but that the Green Party are the only political group who can deal with the contemporary and current issues that the world is facing; both politically and environmentally.

We have changed in almost a 180-degree way, twenty years ago the stereotype was beards, sandals, pipes, hemp clothes, it was almost like lecturing the public – it was unsophisticated. Twenty years ago was what, 1989? Scientists for the first time had come to an agreement that climate change was happening, and that it appeared to be man made. I guess when that news was first out there; people were like ‘look, its GOT to change’. Now we are a bit savvier. We have to present policies which are palatable to the voting public; there is no point in standing on the side lines and finger wagging, if we present a policy which will save money but drive down carbon emissions – that is what we are all about. I see the environment agenda of the Green Party very much subset of our core goal, which is social justice. Everything we do, we put the welfare of the human being at the very core. If they are not benefiting from our policies then… I don’t want to know…. that is what the Green Party stands for. So we work for human rights, LGBT rights, promoting the local economy, promoting local business, right though to reducing carbon emissions, they are all under this umbrella of social justice. We are providing a very electable platform, which will improve people’s lives. We are a very well run political party with extremely good innovative ideas to get ourselves out of this economic mess and we are also challenging climate change and enabling our communities to do the same and preparing ourselves for peak oil.

There have been a many protests organised recently, a lot of people who have never protested before are taking to the streets. What is the Green Party’s stance on direct action?

We are the political wing of the New Social Movement; we are the only party who advocate non-violent direct action. The Green Party leader, Caroline Lucas, is probably the only leader with a criminal record, she has been arrested at a nuclear base up in Scotland. We support legitimate protest. There is a place for the protesting, and a place for the parliamentary process. So we are the elected wing of the protest movement.

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Illustration by Aarron Taylor

Other parties don’t like their protesters do they?

Absolutely not, they just want you to nod along. Like good citizens, nod along like The Churchill Dog! (Laughs)

For people who have only heard of Hackney and have not been here, the first words that would come to mind would not be “sustainability”, “communities” or “grow your own”, but plenty of people are living by these ideals here and there is actually quite a healthy sized green movement in Hackney….

There is a massive opportunity for a green movement here, and massive support for us. It is unbelievable. In the last elections, the Greens reached second or third in every single ward in Hackney.

And you have a good relationship with Transition Town Hackney as well?

Yes, but they are completely different organisations. The Transition Town movement doesn’t want to be in the thrall of the political party. We definitely support the parties and their principles. We are all about a localised economy, we should be able to feed ourselves, produce our own energy, and I should be able to send my kid to the local school. The Transition Town model is about preparing for the onslaught of climate change and equipping communities for that transition, and that is also what the Greens are all about.

Can you see Hackney functioning well under a Green Party council?

Absolutely! They are doing it in Lewisham at the moment, which is a similar demography. They are doing all these fantastic things, for example, they have set a system up where you can go to the library and hire energy reading meters which you can take home and fix into your energy meter and this allows you to do an audit of your energy usage. I definitely want to see this launched in Hackney. It’s an innovative, creative way of thinking. It’s about putting sustainability at the core of everything, which also saves lots and lots of money!

I see The Green Party as being very accessible to young people as well.

The average age of people joining is mid to late 20′s. They are not wedded to 20th century politics, a lot of older labour supporters can’t bring themselves to leave. We have the same agenda that Labour did, back when they were good Labour. Only we can add the environmental agenda. We stand up for peace. We stand up for nuclear disarmament, no other party does that. We want public services to stay public. We want to renationalise the railways – the cost of rail tickets hits young people very, very hard. Younger people can see that we are standing up to big businesses, supporting local shops, and standing up for individuals. We have a whole plethora of progressive policies……..

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Illustration by Aarron Taylor

And also The Green Party a very media savvy bunch – you are on Facebook, you organise lots of activities….

Absolutely! In fact next week we are going paintballing – ‘Paintballing for Peace’

(Laughs) What other way is there to find peace?

(Laughs), and we are going on a Hackney Greens bike ride down to Brighton, we are organising a summer solstice away down to the coast. And we go on alternative pub-crawls. (Laughs)

Speaking of young people, Matt, you are 30 years old and you are standing for Stoke Newington Council for next May. What prompted this move?

I don’t like politicians – they are all the same, especially with what is going on with news about their expenses at the moment.
Working for the Green Party, and seeing the good that they are doing, I thought, you have to step up. I know that I can do a good job. Labour are failing miserably both in Hackney and in the country. The Conservatives are the same, the Liberal Democrats are no different, and so as a Green, you just have to step up.

What will you do if you won and had the power to implement any idea? What’s the first thing that you would do?

Free insulation! It’s a scheme that stems from European legislation, which states that energy companies are obliged to give a certain percentage to energy efficiency schemes. But the councils have to apply for that. The Green Party in Kirklees is on the local council, so every single person in Kirklees gets free insulation. It drives down energy costs, and drives down the carbon emissions and creates local jobs, so it’s a win win situation. Why every single council on the country is getting on this I don’t know. It saves everyone money, make peoples homes warmer, make them healthier – it stops people going to NHS with colds and flu and also reinvigorates the local economy by producing jobs. It creates a programme of very sustainable jobs. We tried to implement it before, but the Labour Councellors called it ‘daft’, dismissed it out of hand and didn’t give a reason beyond that!

That doesn’t make any sense!

The Labour and Conservative Party and the Liberal Democrats are on the wrong side of history, but there is a new movement, and it takes into account the Green Party, Transition Town and Friends Of The Earth…. Amnesty International, trade unions, CND etc and all these community grass routes organisations. This is a wonderful new social movement that can be called green with a small g and is a new paradigm of social and political engagement…. this is what the 21st Century is coming to now, but the three big parties are still clinging onto the coat tails of 20th Century ideology. This whole new multifaceted social movement (of which the Green Party are the political wing) is the new politics of the 21st century.

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Illustration by Faye Katirai

Can you tell us the best changes that we can make to our lives to make our world more sustainable?

Number one is vote Green! Although I don’t want to lecture people about being ” eco trendy”. Eco trendiness and eco consumption is not going to sort this mess out. We need strong government action to allow this country to change to a sustainable economy. But back to things that you can do as an individual: don’t use your car as much. Don’t eat as much meat. Cut down, you don’t have to stop eating meat completely, just don’t buy from supermarkets. Stop shopping at supermarkets altogether, because that is killing the environment, and your local towns. Support your local shops instead.

Wise words! Thanks Matt.
While the rest of us spent the winter windblown and wet-toed, viagra knitwear designer Craig Lawrence was dreaming of a resort escape, prostate with all the bells and whistles. And what hard earned sunburn doesn’t deserve to be soothed by an embarrassingly oversized tropical drink with all the tacky accoutrements. And ‘splash’ inspiration is born! Those fanciful toxic colored fishbowls of liquor with their cascading garnishes were all the visual inspiration Craig needed to create his first collection since graduating from St.Martins last July. Knitted up with satin ribbons and swirling metal yarn, the knitwear newcomer’s sugar sweet confections made it to Vauxhall Fashion Scout’s runways and onto the lips of the fashion heavies.

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I understand sweets and cocktails were the inspirations for your recent collection. What are some of your favorites?
After my degree collection for St.Martins I needed a bit of time to catch my breath so when I started designing again it was winter…cold and grey. I was eating sweets in my studio and daydreaming of beaches and tropical drinks. Some of my favorite things are peach daiquiris, parma violets. My favorite sweet is probably chewy toffee and favorite drink is that fizzy orange drink irn-bru.
What do you recall as the first piece of knitwear you ever made?
A wooly, salmon colored scarf that I actually lost on the train. That and an awful grey ruched square-shaped polyester thing I had to make for my A levels.
If given the chance to collaborate with anyone who would you have in mind?
I’ve always thought of doing pieces for a more theatrical environment. I would love to work with Slava Snowshow.

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You recently worked with stylist Katie Shillingford on a shoot for your recent collection. There’s so much movement in those images which really brings your knits to life, how did you manage to capture that?
I’d wanted dancing and movement but the studios’ ceilings were too low and they were all too expensive. So we brought a 9 ft family size trampoline to a rooftop overlooking the city and had the girls bouncing up and down on it. A bit risky actually as there was really not much there to stop them from going over if we weren’t careful. We did the hair and make up at home with the help of my boyfriend and flatmates, one of which is a model, which definitely helps when you need someone for fittings.
Did you start out interested in knit or did you find your way to it while studying fashion?
Actually, I wanted to do menswear while I was at London College of Fashion, by the time I got to St.Martins they encouraged me to do knit because they saw that all my stuff to that point had been designed in jersey. And I loved the chunky quality of knit.

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I hear you managed to do the impossible and actually design 6 seasons of knitwear for Gareth Pugh, while doing your BA, AND working a retail job once a week. How were you able to do that and how many of yourself did you have to clone?
I was in school at the time and had knitted a scarf for a friend who’s flatmate wore it on a date with Gareth, who mentioned he was looking for a knitwear designer. He got in touch and said he needed to have pieces made up in a week. So it was all quite fast. All that while doing my BA degree and working in the stock room at John Lewis on Saturday mornings, sometimes having to be there at 6 am. You get used to not sleeping.
And a year after graduating you were showing at Vauxhall Fashion Scout?
My PR agency BLOW called me up a week before the show and said they had an opening for me, so I made up some accessories and a few pieces to fill out the collection I’d been working on. I was given a team of hair and make up artists and we were off.

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Which comes first for you, the yarn or the garment?
Usually the textiles come first for me. I’ve learned alot about them along the way, like for example needing to use a flat knit for tight fitting garments.
Are there any textiles, practical or not that you’re really keen to use?
I’d like to do something with little leather strips or pvc something shiny and bright. Maybe even strips of diamante.
What is one of the more random things you’ve used to knit with?
You know those yellow rubber gloves used for washing up/ i found a guy in Dalston Market selling a gaint roll of it and bought it. I cut it up into tiny little strips and started knitting it up but as a garment it was incredibly heavy and totally unweareble.
Could you give us a peek into the inspirations for your next collection?
At the moment I’m interested in accessories, chenille, and fireworks!
Look out! That is some recipe. Craig Lawrence wants to expand our minds and preconceptions, to push knitwear into places we’d least expect it. Can’t wait to see what Molotov cocktail awaits us next season!

Categories ,Gareth Pugh, ,Knitwear, ,St.Martins, ,Vauxhall Fashion Scout

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Amelia’s Magazine | Alan Taylor, MAN: London Collections: Men A/W 2014 Catwalk Review


Alan Taylor S/S 2014 by Yelena Bryksenkova

London Collections: Men might be the clumsiest branding known to man, but the MAN show does you no favours either. Not only do you find yourself saying aloud ‘I’m going to the MAN show’, but check out #MAN on Instagram shortly after the collections and you’ll get all sorts of unsavoury images mixed with Bobby Abley‘s pink fur or Craig Green‘s psychedelic prints.

I haven’t seen either of the above nor Alan Taylor‘s actual catwalk presentations before, so I was pretty excited about this showcase of London’s most innovative menswear designers. Irishman Alan Taylor was up first. Since starting his own label in 2011, Taylor the tailor has quickly asserted himself as one to watch.


All photography by Matt Bramford

This particular collection was inspired by Henri Matisse and Taylor’s love affair with modern art is well documented. Irish tweeds became the canvas and bursts of solid fluorescent panels became the art. Enlarged overcoats and blazers created the silhouettes – natural colours maintained Taylor’s commitment to his heritage. Most pieces were modernised with the aforementioned vibrant coloured panels – Matisse-like shapes in green and purple transformed sharp tailoring into unique and contemporary looks. Contrasting pieces like a floor-length black overcoat constructed from a heavy, shimmering fabric peppered the collection.

Taylor’s staple kilts featured alongside contemporary Oxford bags and jackets with a-line hems, proving that elements of womenswear can actually work in menswear without making the wearer look like an utter berk. Finally, zingy fluorescent accessories: leather gloves, bags and shoes, added yet another dimension to this outstanding outing.

Categories ,A/W 2014, ,Alan Taylor, ,catwalk, ,fashion, ,Fashion East, ,LCM, ,LCMAW2014, ,London Collections Men, ,Man, ,matisse, ,menswear, ,review, ,tailoring, ,Yelena Bryksenkova

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Amelia’s Magazine | An Interview with Future Classics Fashion Designer Julie Wilkins

Future Classics AW14 by Gareth A Hopkins
Future Classics A/W 2014 by Gareth A Hopkins.

Fashion designer Julie Wilkins explores ideas of garment construction/deconstruction, radical conservatism and androgyny for A/W 2014. Her capsule collections come with the guiding principle that purposeful limitation allows for increased invention, so the new Future Classics collection features a sombre colour palette, with conservative fabrics given multiple possibilities of wear that are highlighted in the gifs viewed here. Julie Wilkins is also a musician, releasing her album as The Electra Woods in May this year.

Future Classics AW14 GIF (01)
What inspired the new collection?
The idea of using very classic fabrics – cashmere, camel hair, silk, fine cotton – and a sedate, conservative palate – while working through the staples of a wardrobe and applying all the various things FUTURE CLASSICSC© “does” to a recognisable garment form – multi-functioning, hybrids, twins etc. – but to a SUPER degree. With a shot of plastic bag blue polyester as a kind of contrast/marker. The colour palette matches the plates too. And it marks the end of that incarnation of FUTURE CLASSICSC© and the label’s transition to DRESS© in SS15 – which is a kind of fresh start in lots of ways.

Future Classics AW14 GIF (02)
Future Classics by Marianna Madriz
Future Classics by Marianna Madriz.

How did you put together the gifs, and what gave you the idea to create them?
I built them up (painstakingly, including painting square lips in!) from the look book stills. Oftentimes people don’t see the way the garments will look on and their multi-functionality – so I wanted to show this, and also put a bit of cartoony expressive-ness into the look book. The model Irina was great, very dead pan – super Russian. I love them. It’s like having an electronic pet doll. I often talk to her, when I click on them.

Future classics AW14 GIF (15)
Future-Classics-Fashion-by-Isabelle-Mattern
Future Classics Fashion by Isabelle Mattern.

Who would they like to see wearing this collection?
Clever humans who like some comfort with their edge.

Future Classics AW14 by Beatthepulp aka Kulvinder Dhillon
Future Classics AW14 by Beatthepulp aka Kulvinder Dhillon-2
Future Classics A/W 2014 by Beatthepulp aka Kulvinder Dhillon.

What are you working on next?
I am working on a dress collection for DRESS© for SS15. The collection has thematically titled EP and another cultural product with it – which is part of the new way of working. This one is super exciting……

Dirty Explanation from The Electra Woods on Vimeo.

The ELECTRA WOODS – Dirty Explanation – Video by Dean Brannagan.

See more Future Classics Fashion here. Hear The Electra Woods (out now on FC/fm) here, and find out more about the band here.

Categories ,A/W 2014, ,Beatthepulp, ,Dean Brannagan, ,Dirty Explanation, ,FC/fm, ,future classics, ,Future Classics Fashion, ,Gareth A Hopkins, ,interview, ,Isabelle Mattern, ,Julie Wilkins, ,Kulvinder Dhillon, ,Marianna Madriz, ,The Electra Woods

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Amelia’s Magazine | Basharatyan V: London Fashion Week S/S 2014 Catwalk Review

Illustration by Claire Kearns

Basharatyan V by Claire Kearns

Basharatyan V definitely provoked some raised eyebrows with her latest collection. This show was a bold affair, with models sporting short modish twenties style wigs and very strong brows. The collection’s title, Frida, promised some striking shapes and colours and this was provided in the form of some eye-catching vivid hues. The show kicked off at pace, offering a mixture of bold tailoring and contrasting softer silk dresses. The strong styling did help pull together a collection that felt a little disjointed. The dresses, which included a beautiful long black number, were  the stand-out features of the show. A pristine pencil skirt and cropped-top combination and some strong lines, to an extent, made up for an ill-judged harem pant and lacklustre halter-neck here and there. This was a show of highs and lows to say the least. The introduction of slightly unusual faded prints and a willingness to play with fabric, cut and tailoring (perhaps a little too much in places) shows that this Russian designer’s gaining confidence. With this collection there was certainly no lack of vision which, if refined, means it will be intriguing to see what’s next from Basharatyan V.

Basharatyan V SS 2014-photo by Amelia Gregory

Basharatyan v London Fashion Week

Bashratyan London Fashion Week

Bashratyan v at London Fashion Week

Basharatyan London Fashion Week

Basharatyan v London fashion week

Basharatyan v London Fashion Week

Basharatyan v London Fashion Week

Basharatyan v London Fashion Week

Basharatyan v London Fashion Week

All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,2014, ,basharatyan v, ,fashion, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Frida, ,London Fashion Week, ,preview, ,review, ,S/S 2014, ,Spring/Summer 2014

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Amelia’s Magazine | Bernard Chandran A/W 09

After a tiring day of show-hopping, malady hospital the fashion set descended on the Science Museumfor the Bernard Chandran A/W 09 show. Chandran, generic web of Malaysian orgin, has wowed the fashion set with his angular, futuristic pieces for a couple of seasons now. Estelle is a keen follower, she wore not one but two of his creations at the Grammy’s last year, shunning a host of established powerhouse designers.

With that acolade in mind, it was nice to see what all the fuss was about. Chandran has a vision – he isn’t a one trick pony, but a sustainable and creative mind with a devil-may-care attitude and an adventurous yet playful nature. The constraints of the female form are thrown out of the window with his wild cuts and angular shapes, enhancing the female silhouette.

bernard-chandran-1.jpg

bernard-chandran-2.jpg

The lights dimmed, and the banging started. A little too loud for my delicate ears, but a thudding baseline heightened the drama and excitement and made pulses race. One by one, sculpted silhouettes bounded down the runway to the electro-funk beat, fusing the eccentricity of Yohji Yamamoto, with the space age vision of Jacqueline Pearce’s Servalan in Blake’s 7 of the late 1970′s.

These shapes included shift dresses with angular sleeves; simple coats with oversized square lapels; capes with voluminous sleeves and high necklines, and tailored dresses with highly exaggerated hollow sleeves and necks. PVC was married with cotton and silk to create yet more contrasts, and bright reds and oranges give us hope that this Winter won’t be so bad after all.

bernard-chandran-3.jpg

bernard-chandran-4.jpg

Chandran is a genius of construction – clear from dresses made up of panel after panel intricately fused together to make solid, grown-up garments. It’s easy to see why he’s has already received the equivalent of a knighthood in Malaysia for his outstanding contribution to Asian fashion, and is well ahead in the stakes after only a handful of seasons.

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