Leah Nelson

Amelia’s Magazine | Sorapol presents IMMORTAL: a fashion film for the A/W 2013 ready-to-wear collection

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Sorapol IMMORTAL by xplusyequals

Sorapol IMMORTAL by xplusyequals.

Extravagant Bangkok born fashion designer Sorapol Chawaphatnakul and his equally extravagant creative director – the irrepressible Daniel Lismore – have together created a fantastical short fashion film to accompany the inaugural Sorapol ready-to-wear collection. Take a peek below, and read on to find out more.

What was the inspiration behind the new collection?
This will be the first SORAPOL ready to wear collection. Each collection is usually inspired by one or two elements of history and culture merged together with aesthetics. The new collection is inspired by the common ground between mysticism, surrealism and the animal kingdom. The Fabrics used include, silks, wools and leathers, with much of the collection using natural fibres.

Sorapol Immortal by Leah Nelson

Sorapol Immortal by Leah Nelson.

Which materials feature most heavily in your creations?
Sorapol has worked with a number of extravagant fabrics, from silks to lavish prints, to produce a collection embodying decadence and Oriental contemporaries. Every season we use new materials and try to create new techniques in embroidery and knit. Sorapol like to experiment with new ideas born from couture skills. Our garments have been designed for the modern woman who appreciates timeless designs. The collection includes coats, tailored jackets and evening gowns.

Sorapol by Kimberly Elle#21

Sorapol by Kimberly Ellen Hall.

What was the idea behind the creation of the video?
The Immortal video was based on a tale from 1001 nights. There was once a king who discovered that his wife had been disloyal. He had her executed and then proceeded to marry every fair lady in his kingdom. He protected himself from the treachery of women by putting each wife to death the morning after their wedding. After his marriage to his 1001st wife had been consummated, they lay back on the royal bed. To pass the hours she began telling the king wondrous stories of love and destiny, cutting short each tale just before dawn so that the king would let her live another night to hear the end of the story. After their final night together she escapes with her new lover. The woman portrays our client, who is both strong in character & fearless in style. Sorapol designs are beautiful pieces of armour, fit for the trials and tribulations that life throws at us. A woman who wears Sorapol feels confident about herself in any situation. 

Sorapol By Briony Jose

Sorapol by Briony Jose.

How long did it take to make the video and what were the biggest challenges?
The biggest challenge in making this video was to make a high production film in a short amount of time and on a tight budget, with just one day of shooting which was done at Castle Gibbson in Dalston. It took a while to get the music and sound recordings right, requiring a day in a studio with four singers. The rest was easy. Stephen took two recordings which he sent to us. 

Soropol IMMORTAL by xplusyequals

Soropol IMMORTAL by xplusyequals.

Where are the words from?
The words were written by one of the best wordsmiths we know, Sigmund Oakeshott. We called him one night and asked him to write a piece of art for us. The next day we got it back and it was perfect.

Sorapol illustration by Mitika 28.1.14

Sorapol illustration by Mitika Chohan.

How did you get so many big names involved?
Aiden Shaw, our muse Wei Chiung Lin & BB Kaye are all great believers in making art, the progression of fashion and are all supporters of the brand. They loved the ideas that the head designer, Sorapol and myself as creative director, Daniel Lismore, put to them. Daniel sent the unfinished film to Stephen Fry to ask his opinion. He loved it and kindly agreed to do the narration.

Sorapol by Ste Johnson

Sorapol by Ste Johnson.

What do you hope for in the coming year?
This year we have had the choice of starting to create a ready to wear collection. Showing at The Serpentine Gallery will be the changing point for us as it will be our first show during the time period of London Fashion Week. We plan to launch an accessible diffusion line later on in the year for our large fan base.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Thursday January 30th, 2014 3:21 pm

Categories ,1001 Nights, ,Aiden Shaw, ,BB Kaye, ,Briony Jose, ,Castle Gibbson, ,dalston, ,Daniel Lismore, ,Fashion Film, ,IMMORTAL, ,Kimberly Ellen Hall, ,Leah Nelson, ,London Fashion Week, ,Mitika Chohan, ,Serpentine Gallery, ,Sigmund Oakeshott, ,Sorapol, ,Sorapol Chawaphatnakul, ,Ste Johnson, ,Stephen Fry, ,Wei Chiung Lin, ,xplusyequals

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Amelia’s Magazine | Vita Gottlieb A/W 2014: London Fashion Week Preview

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Vita Gottlieb A/W 2014 by xplusyequals

Vita Gottlieb A/W 2014 by xplusyequalshttp://www.xplusyequals.co.uk.

Since taking part in Fashion Fringe as a finalist in 2013, new designer Vita Gottlieb has been busy refining her unique vision, taking multiple influences from across the world and melding them into incredible constructions and beautifully tailored dresses. Her love for the environment is carried through into every aspect of her business; working with ethical suppliers, keeping wastage to a minimum and giving 10% of profits to charities. Here’s a sneak (illustrated) preview of the new A/W 2014 collection.

Vita Gottlieb AW 2014 mood board

Vita Gottlieb AW 2014 mood board long

Three things that I notice looking at your mood boards for the new collection: caging, owl, snail shell – how do these things and ideas impact the new collection?
Actually the owl and shell (it’s a mollusk) are there just as general mood images – I often have images piled up and all over the walls, just to aid the dreaming! But in a more focused mindset it’s just the collection images. For AW14 I was looking at cages, birds, palaces in India, in particular an old ruined Maharaja’s palace I visited in my gap year- and the idea of Grace Jones roaming through the palace with birds flying in and out of the ruins. I’m always taken with the juxtaposing strength against something more delicate or falling apart. There’s always a bit of an imaginary landscape in my concepts but also I imagine a character in a film and draw inspiration from what I perceive they will do and feel.

Vita Gottlieb AW 2014 colour sketches

Vita-Gottlieb-AW-14-sketches

Sketches by Vita Gottlieb.

You’re showing at Fashion Scout for the first time, how did this come about and what are you most nervous about?
I applied and got in! It’s so great to get to show with Fashion Scout as they support really innovative designers who go onto do big things in the industry, so it’s very exciting. At the moment the studio is quite relaxed as the collection is done, but we’re planning all the practical tasks before the show – casting, music, accessories, etc, plus organising sales documentation and planning some trade shows, also finalising production and deliveries for SS14 – the business side of things are always more nerve-wracking. I’m a bit nervous of the show though, that’s natural – mainly as it’s the first time as a designer that you see the whole collection worn together, and it’s a bit of a reveal – I just hope it’s coherent.

Vita Gottlieb A/W 2014 by Calamus Chan

Vita Gottlieb A/W 2014 by Calamus Chan.

What can we expect from your upcoming catwalk show?
Hopefully a bit of youthful energy and a strong dynamic.

Vita Gottlieb A/W 2014 by Leah Nelson

Vita Gottlieb A/W 2014 by Leah Nelson.

How have you achieved the technical details of the Caged collection? It sounds very complex!
Some pieces were very complex and technical but quite a lot of the collection is more commercial – I’m really aiming with this collection to break into new markets and territories and for it to do well on the sales side of things. But the fun stuff is always making the press pieces for editorial, you can really get creative and treat the materials in a more purely sculptural, instinctive way – I love that process, it’s one of my favourite parts in a collection’s development.

Vita Gottlieb A/W 2014 by Emma Farrarons

Vita Gottlieb A/W 2014 by Emma Farrarons.

It seems only  yesterday that you made the decision to enter the world of fashion and already you are onto your fourth collection… what have you learnt along the way?
So much, mainly about running a business. I ran a production company before and a gallery but both on a really small scale – this industry has taught me a huge amount about management – of people, time, juggling the various departments in the business. And about how to edit, to focus, and remain in the moment with whatever task you’re doing. It’s a huge, huge workload, but I’m learning to compartmentalize more and really hone in on something until it’s done as well as it can be. And I’ve learnt I really need space and time for myself, which is a rarity in this business! So something I’m working on achieving from next season on.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Friday February 14th, 2014 8:37 am

Categories ,AW14, ,Caged, ,Calamus Chan, ,Emma Farrarons, ,Fashion Fringe, ,Fashion Scout, ,Grace Jones, ,Leah Nelson, ,xplusyequals

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Amelia’s Magazine | Interview: Fashion designer Ziad Ghanem introduces new S/S 2014 Couture Collection “HELL O”

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Ziad Ghanem S/S 2014 by Claire Kearns

Ziad Ghanem S/S 2014 by Claire Kearns.

We really missed culture couturier Ziad Ghanem on the catwalk last season so I am really pleased to exclusively introduce his new S/S 2014 Couture Collection entitled HELL O, dedicated to Queen Victoria and powerful curvy women. I spoke to Ziad and his stylist, Aiden Connor about the ethos behind the designs.

Ziad Ghanem by Leah Nelson

Ziad Ghanem by Leah Nelson.

You first started out in fashion with quite an urban aesthetic, but have since moved towards haute couture… how did this evolution come about and what is the best thing about working at such a high end?
I am trained in the techniques of couture but the ubran aesthetic is what represents me most, so there is always an element of urban within all my work in both ready to wear and my couture. The best thing about working at such high end is that you have a far more personal relationship with the client. Good communication is the key to a successful outfit.

Ziad Ghanem couture collection Lizzie Chiffon Print dress

Who buys and wears your exclusive couture looks, and how does the process of creation work once a buyer has requested a piece?
We have individual clients that have certain occasions to attend such as red carpet gala parties and other special events. After providing an individual design the client’s measurements are taken, the toile and the fabric samples are provided, the garment is fitted and then we start to produce the actual outfit. What works on paper may not always work in 3D form, so thats why we have fittings and alterations.

Ziad Ghanem by Adam Pryce

Ziad Ghanem by Adam Pryce.

What was the biggest culture shock when you moved from Lebanon to London in the 1990s, and how easy was it to adapt to life here?
Lebanon is a pretty open country to Western culture so I knew a lot about Britain before moving here. Moving to London is one of the best things I’ve done in my life, it gave me so much freedom, courage and inspiration. I felt at home here even from the first day I arrived and up to this day. I am so grateful to this country for everything it offers to creative people like me.

Ziad Ghanem couture collection S:S 2014 - cape

How have ideas and traditions from the place where you grew up infiltrated your designs?
Refinement and sophistication are things I’ve learnt from where I was brought up. I use lots of weaving techniques such as Nawl weaving and Artisan embroideries, which originate from that part of the Middle-East.

Ziad Ghanem couture collection S:S 2014 - pink dress

You have always shown your collections worn on a range of models who are fabulous for what they do as well as looking great. Why is it so important to you to steer clear of the traditional skinny teenage look that most designers show their clothing on?
Because it’s boring… Darling. Fashion should be about fun and not a prison. I strongly believe in individuality and I love the unexpected. My models are my muse. I love them.

Ziad Ghanem couture collection S:S 2014 - striped green dress

Why is the new couture collection titled “HELL O”?
It is titled ‘HELL O‘, because we wanted it to say ‘hello, look at me‘. We split the O from the word because I always get a lot of abuse for my use of my models (because of their sizes) and it feels like hell. I guess it’s nothing compared to their own hell that they must endure because of the industry and media discrimination. I was so, so upset when I read the body fascist comments of Mr Lagerfeld saying ‘nobody wants to see curves on the catwalk‘. I want to prove this statement is wrong, everyone can look good small, medium or large. Just embrace your individuality.

Ziad Ghanem By Lynne Datson

Ziad Ghanem by Lynne Datson.

What aspects of Queen Victoria inspired the latest collection?
Queen Victoria was a grand, majestic woman, and one of the longest running monarchs in history, so she is a symbol of powerful woman that always inspires me. She was no small lady but she never hid this and always showed this off in her full regalia.  

Ziad Ghanem by Hannah Boothman

Ziad Ghanem by Hannah Boothman.

In what way are you ethical in your designs?
I try to source my fabrics as ethically as possible so I use many vintage and reclaimed materials within my work, and I do not produce my pieces in a sweatshop – I treat the people I work with with respect. Ethicality must start with the way we treat the people around us, and the rest must follow.

Ziad Ghanem by Amy Davis

Ziad Ghanem by Amy Davis.

How did your mum get involved with the Paris is Burning collection, and has she contributed anything to the latest one?
My mum has always been the source of my inspiration as she loves glamour and dressing up. The 1980s was very much her area of fashion. She designed all of the accessories throughout the collection. She continually works with me; she is part of the team. 

Ziad Ghanem couture collection Zoe Black dress

Who took the photographs for the new S/S 2014 collection, and what was the art direction for these looks?
The inspiration for the shoot was Disney villains: I wanted it to be a caricature of haute couture and I was very lucky to meet the wonderful team I worked with, especially our models Zoe and Lizzie. Aiden Connor was the creative director for this photos, and it was shot by Andrew Hiles.

We sadly missed you on the catwalk last season (your shows are always a highlight of LFW) – when can we next expect to see you there, and any hints on what we might see? 
Thank you so much Amelia, I’m very thankful of your support since day one (thank you, blush). I will be doing a show during this coming February London Fashion Week. The new collection is looking very sensual but I am still working on the direction of the show. I’m in the middle of an idea that swings between “S & M” or “M & S“… lol

Ziad Ghanem by Avril Kelly

Ziad Ghanem by Avril Kelly.

Your garments really flatter the female physique in whatever form it comes in – what advice do you have for the ‘non-standard’ female when it comes to dressing beautifully?
Thank you for this compliment. My advice is firstly to invest in a good bra that fits well and is comfortable. Secondly, conceal the part you are not comfortable with and highlight your strongest assets. Don’t believe the myth that black is slimming or that a loose sack is flattering. Dress your size, brush your hair and accessorise.  

Ziad Ghanem couture collection Lizzie Black Corset

Finally, do you have any advice for aspiring young fashion designers who dream of entering the couture world?
My advice is, they need to study and learn how to make the classics with traditional techniques before they come out with the inventive pieces. As Alexander McQueen said ‘you need to know the rules before you can break them…’ A great knowledge of the human body is a must as well as an attention to the finer details. 

Thankyou Ziad, we can’t wait to see your new collection x

Written by Amelia Gregory on Tuesday January 14th, 2014 6:47 pm

Categories ,Adam Pryce, ,Aiden Connor, ,Amy Davis, ,Andrew Hiles, ,Avril KellyAvril Kelly, ,Claire Kearns, ,couture, ,Hannah Boothman, ,Haute Couture, ,HELL O, ,interview, ,Leah Nelson, ,Lebanon, ,London Fashion Week, ,Lynne Datson, ,Nawl weaving, ,Queen Victoria, ,S/S 2014, ,Ziad Ghanem

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