Warren Clarke

Amelia’s Magazine | The 2013 FAD Awards: London Fashion Week Catwalk Review

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Stephanie Kitchen by Warren Clarke

The Fashion Awareness Direct (FAD) Awards are always an end-of-fashion-week treat. After five days of the freshest fashion talent dominating the catwalks at the Fashion Scout venue, FAD looks even further into the future at the best of the country’s undergraduate talent, based each season around a different theme.


Louis Anderson-Bythell – all photography by Matt Bramford

There could be no better a theme in this age of global change and austerity than ‘Future Optimism‘, which was the brief for this year’s students. Over 100 undergraduates submitted work for the competition, with fifteen entries showcased at this climatic event.


Anna Kim by Gabriel Ayala

Here’s a quick photographic rundown of the fifteen entries:

MATTHEW O’BRIEN

LUCINDA ROBERTS

STEPHANOS KONSTANTIOU


Stephanos Konstantiou by Laura Hickman

ROBERT MILLS

STEPHANIE KITCHEN

JOSEPH HORTON

CHELSEY CROSSLAND

LOUIS ANDERSON-BYTHELL

AYSHA SIMPSON

NNEKA OKORIE

KIMBERLEY PHILLIPS

LAURA CHITTENDEN

ANNA KIM

ESTELA NEVINSKAITE

MORWENNA DARWELL

And so on to the winners. It must have been a tough job for Hilary Alexander, Fashion Scout’s Martyn Roberts, Topshops’ Geraldine O’Brien, FAD’s Claire Muldoon and our pal Milly Jackson (who won the 2011 Award) to choose a winner.


Sitting at the end of the catwalk is fantastic for shots of models but not so fantastic if the awards action takes place at the opposite end.

One of my personal favourites, Nneka Okorie‘s glorious menswear, took one of the runner up prizes. Her slick trench-coats with digital printing techniques brought both expert tailoring and vivid colours to the catwalk and I loved the discrete details of city skylights on a backpack and trouser hems.

Stephanos Konstantiou took the other runner up prize with his futuristic neoprene collection with rigid cutaway details. His laser-cut houndstooth pattern was completely original, and I enjoyed the sharp silhouettes that his collection projected. Nneka and Stephanos both take home five hundred quid and an industry placement. Well done, pals!

The winner, described by Hilary Alexander as ‘unanimous’ and ‘one to watch’ for the coming seasons, was, deservedly, Stephanie Kitchen. A final year student at Bath Spa University (always a good show at Graduate Fashion Week), Stephanie’s innovative cycle wear earned cheers when it first appeared at the beginning of the show and rapturous applause when it was announced Stephanie had won. This collection brought together wearability, sustainability, style and functionality all in one. The cycle sunglasses were a hit, too.

Stephanie wins £1000 and an industry placement and her designs were also shown at London Fashion Weekend. I don’t think this will be the last time we see Stephanie on the London fashion catwalks.


Winner Stephanie Kitchen by Milly Jackson for FAD

Written by Matt Bramford on Monday February 25th, 2013 11:50 am

Categories ,2013, ,Anna Kim, ,Awards, ,Aysha Simpson, ,BA, ,catwalk, ,Chelsey Crossland, ,Estela Nevinskaite, ,FAD, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Gabriel Ayala, ,Hilary Alexander, ,Joseph Horton, ,Kimberley Phillips, ,Laura Chittenden, ,Laura Hickman, ,London Fashion Week, ,Louis Anderson-Bythell, ,Lucinda Roberts, ,Matt Bramford, ,Matthew O’Brien, ,menswear, ,Milly Jackson, ,Morwenna Darwell, ,Nneka Okorie, ,review, ,Robert Mills, ,Stephanie Kitchen, ,Stephanos Konstantinou, ,students, ,sustainability, ,undergraduate, ,Warren Clarke, ,Womenswear

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Amelia’s Magazine | KTZ: London Fashion Week A/W 2012 Catwalk Review

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KTZ A/W 2012 by Lorna Leigh Harrington

Regular readers of my London Fashion Week reviews (Hi mum, sorry I haven’t called, been busy) will know that I absolutely adore KTZ. If I could only choose one show to see each season it would probably be this – so it was disappointing that both myself and Amelia hadn’t received any tickets this time. The show had been moved from its regular spot on menswear day to fit in with the womenswear schedule – a move not so surprising considering the KTZ womenswear is usually what gets people talking. This also might explain the lack of tickets – but it was thanks to fashion superhero Lida over at The First To Know that I managed to get in.


All photography by Matt Bramford

Inside, it was already approaching capacity with barely enough room to swing a Canon zoom lens. I managed to perch on the end of a row – one cheek on, one cheek off – as the aisles began to fill up also. Now I don’t want to get above my station but I’ve seen some really, really bad fashion etiquette this season. It seems there are more and more people desperate to take photographs, with people standing up in all rows to try and secure a less blurry shot. It makes for a messy looking show, with some people even resorting to lying on the floor. I dread to think what kind of immoral images they take of the poor models.


KTZ A/W 2012 by Warren Clarke

I had just enough time to scan the crowds for celebrities before the show began – I think there was a member of The Saturdays (I could be wrong) who looked like she’d been getting ready since 2004. The lights fell, the infamous eardrum-bursting music began and this season’s KTZ extravaganza opened with a monochrome all-plaid number. I hadn’t had time to survey any show notes in part because I was trying to work out whether Girl From The Saturdays was actually from The Saturdays – and sometimes this makes the show more interesting, when you have no idea what to expect. This opening number featured a loose-fitting jacket in heavy tartan fabric, embellished with silver pearls and worn over matching layers – herringbone and smaller tartans – all brought together at the waist with a deep belt featuring ‘KTZ’ in metal.

The tartans kept a-coming, and I would even be so brave to suggest that tartan might be a trend, if people still really worry about things like that. Gorgeous plaid in bright yellow and rich red appeared, styled similarly in Yohji Yamamoto-esque coats with askew proportions and leather and gold accessories. A little bit punk, a little bit New Romantic (styled with flat, shapeless caps) and a LOT of fun.

On the bottom half, tartans came on pleated skirts – sexier than kilts, cut much higher above the knee. Digital-print skirts carrying constellations almost went unnoticed amongst such vibrant fabrics.

As usual there was a huge element of mystery to this collection – as it progressed, models wore huge capes printed with ambiguous religious symbols and monk-like hoods that managed to be sexy and scary at the same time. This section of the show would most certainly have had Dan Brown soaked.

The offerings for fellas seemed a lot stronger this year and the relationship between menswear and womenswear was the most married I’ve seen from KTZ so far. Tartan caps and puffa jackets carried fur trims, large scarves with said symbols were worn across the chest, and hooded cassocks had a surprisingly masculine effect.

The finale brought a few unusual pieces that came as a bit of a surprise – it made the collection seem a little incoherent, but this is KTZ and they can be as incoherent as they bloody like for all I care – leave orderly collections to the Jasper Conrans of fashion, I say. Pinstripe New Romantic-proportioned blazers were embellished with hundreds and thousands of shimmering stars for the gents; for women this treatment appeared on a body-conscious one-piece. A black cropped-sleeve dress, covered completely in black jewels, brought gasps from the guests on my bench.

Reviewing my photographs, I haven’t even mentioned the Versace-esque printed dress with Baroque and tartan fused together perfectly in print, OR the Chanel-esque twinset and baggy sweater. Oh! It was wonderfully exhausting as always, and a massive relief to see that, even in an age of austerity, KTZ will continue to invite us (ahem) into their weird and wonderful dreams.

Written by Matt Bramford on Monday February 27th, 2012 11:45 am

Categories ,A/W 2012, ,AW12, ,BFC, ,catwalk, ,chanel, ,Constellations, ,Digital Print, ,Kokontozai, ,KTZ, ,lfw, ,Lida, ,London Fashion Week, ,Lorna Leigh Harrington, ,Matt Bramford, ,menswear, ,New Romantics, ,Pinstripe, ,Plaid, ,review, ,Show Space, ,Somerset House, ,Tartan, ,The First To Know, ,Versace, ,Warren Clarke, ,Womenswear, ,Yohji Yamamoto

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Amelia’s Magazine | Baartmans & Siegel: London Collections Men S/S 2013 Presentation Review

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Baartmans and Siegel S/S 2014 by Hannah Smith

Bright and early on the last day of London Collections: Men, I raced to Covent Garden to catch Baartmans and Siegel‘s S/S 2014 presentation.


All photography by Matt Bramford

The design duo presented this season’s wares in an unused shop on Earlham Street. Inside, their eight models stood on breeze blocks in front of stark white walls, enveloped by a jungle of plants. With A/W 2013′s collection of Arctic-worthy puffas and parkas ingrained in my mind, this was clearly a cohesive move towards spring and summer fun.

I’ve talked about the merits of a presentation vs. a catwalk show before, but this was the perfect example. If these models were to have walked past a lightning speed, you’d never get a flavour of the expert craftsmanship and hidden details that go in to a Baartmans and Siegel collection. You’re also made acutely aware that models are told to Blue Steel into your camera, which can make for hilarious results. I never, ever know what to do after they’ve shot me a look. Sometimes I nod, sometimes I smile, sometimes I pretend to fiddle with the settings on my camera; I’ve even been known to do a little bow or curtsy, which is incredibly embarrassing.

SS14′s ‘South Pacific Aviation‘ sees Wouter and Amber seek subtle inspiration from the joys of adventure and exotic escapism. With elements of military and utilitarian uniform, a resounding feature of a Baartmans and Siegel collection is always a strong focus on the beauty of textures. Rich silks, brushed cottons, jersey, perforated suede, wools – you name it, they make excellent use of it.

Basics like tees and tailored shirts came in off-white, but were dominated by a sea of varying blues and blacks for a masculine effect. Most forms of the jacket were given the B&S once-over; a bomber with silk sleeves, a trench with zip details, an elongated Harrington and parkas in paisley Broderie Anglaise.

Polos and t-shirts were layered in a loose, nonchalant way. Mesh tops added another texture, contrasting with the softness of jacket materials.

Slick, wet-look hair styles, shades and Sauconys added an extra modern dimension to Baartmans and Siegel‘s firmly established classic aesthetic.

Written by Matt Bramford on Monday July 1st, 2013 8:27 am

Categories ,Baartmans and Siegel, ,Blue Steel, ,bomber, ,Covent Garden, ,Earlham Street, ,fashion, ,Hannah Smith, ,Harrington, ,LCM, ,LCMSS14, ,london, ,London Collections Men, ,Matt Bramford, ,menswear, ,military, ,parkas, ,Saucony, ,South Pacific Aviation, ,SS14

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Amelia’s Magazine | Happy and Glorious: Queen Elizabeth II’s Diamond Jubilee Illustrated

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The Queen and her corgis by Sam Parr

This weekend marks 60 years since Princess Elizabeth, Duchess of Edinburgh became Queen of the United Kingdom and Head of the Commonwealth. The Diamond Jubilee will be celebrated (by most) across the world with street parties, boats on rivers, concerts and a diminutive Pop Princess writhing around in her underwear (I should imagine) on a makeshift stage in front of Buckingham Palace. It will be a glorious celebration of the Queen‘s dedication to her role and her people.


The Queen by James Round (Adopted Design)


A fashionable street party by Sarah Bromley

So I don’t agree with everything the Monarchy stands for, but since I was a boy I’ve been fascinated by the pomp and circumstance. Look at the State Opening of Parliament: some countries make do with an octogenarian saying ‘Parliament’s open, pals‘ (or words to that effect) but not Great Britain. Oh, no. Trumpets, £1m crowns, crazed gents banging on doors with rods, live television coverage that has the nation glued; it’s priceless.


A Jubilee tea party by Helena Maratheftis
Helena says: My initials are HM and when I was little I realised they also stood for Her Majesty. I think this explains why I’m drawn to royal memorabilia, especially if it has crowns on it…!


Queenie by Ashley Fauguel

We’ve all heard the figures of what the British Monarchy actually costs us – £1 per person, 69p per person, blah blah blah: I won’t even argue that the Monarchy makes us money, even if there are no shortage of International tourists risking life and limb to get a photograph of their offspring, arms by sides, perplexed as to why they’re being forced to stand stock still in front of a stone lion. But there’s nothing like a country coming together in a way only we British know how to do best – over tea and cake.


The young Queen by Claire Kearns


Diamond Jubilee by Claire Wood


Drag Queen by Melissa Angelik

I’m way out of my depth and I’m sure there’ll be trolls falling over themselves to tell me all sorts of wicked and sinister things about Her Madge and the firm – but I couldn’t care less. I’d much rather have our Liz than some dry bloke in a suit as our nation’s representative.


The Queen’s Kitchen by Luke Prest
Luke says: This image was inspired when I caught sight of my Nan, sitting staring out of her kitchen window wearing her rollers and smoking a cigarette. Inspite of them being worlds apart, every family and every home has its own Queen. Both the Queen and my Nan represent the same things – heads of state; the figurehead of the family.


Jubilee Pop Queen by Warren Clarke

I’ll be too busy starring at Liz’s crown jewels on Jubilee Day and waving a Union flag to worry about boorish types proclaiming themselves above it all. Long Live the Queen!


M is for Monarch by Helen Lang


Street Party by Deborah Moon

Written by Matt Bramford on Friday June 1st, 2012 5:49 pm

Categories ,60, ,Ashley Fauguel, ,Buckingham Palace, ,Claire Kearns, ,Claire Wood, ,Commonwealth, ,Deborah Moon, ,Diamond Jubilee, ,Flag, ,Great Britain, ,Helen Lang, ,Helena Maratheftis, ,Jubilee, ,Kylie Minogue, ,london, ,Luke Prest, ,Melissa Angelik, ,Princess, ,Queen, ,Sam Parr, ,Street Party, ,Us Two and You, ,Warren Clarke

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Amelia’s Magazine | Happy and Glorious: Queen Elizabeth II’s Diamond Jubilee Illustrated

by


The Queen and her corgis by Sam Parr

This weekend marks 60 years since Princess Elizabeth, Duchess of Edinburgh became Queen of the United Kingdom and Head of the Commonwealth. The Diamond Jubilee will be celebrated (by most) across the world with street parties, boats on rivers, concerts and a diminutive Pop Princess writhing around in her underwear (I should imagine) on a makeshift stage in front of Buckingham Palace. It will be a glorious celebration of the Queen‘s dedication to her role and her people.


The Queen by James Round (Adopted Design)


A fashionable street party by Sarah Bromley

So I don’t agree with everything the Monarchy stands for, but since I was a boy I’ve been fascinated by the pomp and circumstance. Look at the State Opening of Parliament: some countries make do with an octogenarian saying ‘Parliament’s open, pals‘ (or words to that effect) but not Great Britain. Oh, no. Trumpets, £1m crowns, crazed gents banging on doors with rods, live television coverage that has the nation glued; it’s priceless.


A Jubilee tea party by Helena Maratheftis
Helena says: My initials are HM and when I was little I realised they also stood for Her Majesty. I think this explains why I’m drawn to royal memorabilia, especially if it has crowns on it…!


Queenie by Ashley Fauguel

We’ve all heard the figures of what the British Monarchy actually costs us – £1 per person, 69p per person, blah blah blah: I won’t even argue that the Monarchy makes us money, even if there are no shortage of International tourists risking life and limb to get a photograph of their offspring, arms by sides, perplexed as to why they’re being forced to stand stock still in front of a stone lion. But there’s nothing like a country coming together in a way only we British know how to do best – over tea and cake.


The young Queen by Claire Kearns


Diamond Jubilee by Claire Wood


Drag Queen by Melissa Angelik

I’m way out of my depth and I’m sure there’ll be trolls falling over themselves to tell me all sorts of wicked and sinister things about Her Madge and the firm – but I couldn’t care less. I’d much rather have our Liz than some dry bloke in a suit as our nation’s representative.


The Queen’s Kitchen by Luke Prest
Luke says: This image was inspired when I caught sight of my Nan, sitting staring out of her kitchen window wearing her rollers and smoking a cigarette. Inspite of them being worlds apart, every family and every home has its own Queen. Both the Queen and my Nan represent the same things – heads of state; the figurehead of the family.


Jubilee Pop Queen by Warren Clarke

I’ll be too busy starring at Liz’s crown jewels on Jubilee Day and waving a Union flag to worry about boorish types proclaiming themselves above it all. Long Live the Queen!


M is for Monarch by Helen Lang


Street Party by Deborah Moon

Written by Matt Bramford on Friday June 1st, 2012 5:49 pm

Categories ,60, ,Ashley Fauguel, ,Buckingham Palace, ,Claire Kearns, ,Claire Wood, ,Commonwealth, ,Deborah Moon, ,Diamond Jubilee, ,Flag, ,Great Britain, ,Helen Lang, ,Helena Maratheftis, ,Jubilee, ,Kylie Minogue, ,london, ,Luke Prest, ,Melissa Angelik, ,Princess, ,Queen, ,Sam Parr, ,Street Party, ,Us Two and You, ,Warren Clarke

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Amelia’s Magazine | Glastonbury Festival’s 2014 Emerging Talent Competition: My Top Three Acts

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Alev Lenz memphis video still

I was very flattered, when, thanks to a recommendation from Stay Loose music PR, I was asked to be one of the judges for the first round of Glastonbury Festival’s 2014 Emerging Talent Competition. The panel is made up of ‘about 40 of the UK’s top online music writers’ that includes the likes of Drowned in Sound, TLOFBF and Breaking More Waves, so I am indeed in good company. Together we have compiled a long list of 120 acts from around 8000 entries (with the selection sent to me predominantly consisting of folk, electronic, acoustic and pop acts, at my request), from which the second stage judges must pick the 8 finalists and then the final winner. Over the years I have frequently been very impressed with the bands that have been highlighted by this competition as ones to watch, and so it was a real honour to be included in the early stages. The Emerging Talent Competition gives new and unsigned artists a chance to showcase their wares on a main stage at the festival, and previous entrants have gone on to great things, including Stornoway and Treetop Flyers.

Given so much talent I found it incredibly hard to make my final three choices, and in the end based much of my decision on the professionalism of the acts and the need to pick a balanced offering. So I choose my very favourite best tunes – the ones that had me hit the virtual rewind time and again – and then I looked for a good stage presence since this is essential in a festival setting (this was sadly a let down with a few acts that I really liked) and finally an aptitude for self promotion, as I feel this is vital today (again, too many acts had not really thought this through, which I feel shows a lack of ambition or belief, both of which are necessary to survive). It is perhaps no surprise that my top act is coincidentally one that had previously (before the competition) contacted me to cover their music, which I did, you can read my post here: I love a bit of get go in a creative!

Here, without further ado, are my top three choices: I hope at least one of them makes the final cut! And I hope to write a further blog post recommending some of the other great bands I found but which sadly did not make my final three. Click on the titles to hear the tracks on soundcloud.

1. Arthur Rigby & the Baskervylles – Moonlit Strangers

Arthur Rigby

Arthur Rigby & The Baskervylles - Moonlit Strangers By Warren Clarke

Arthur Rigby & The Baskervylles – Moonlit Strangers By Warren Clarke.

On Moonlit Strangers the Leeds based band Arthur Rigby & the Baskervylles employ lush orchestration and multi-layered vocals to tell a tale of loneliness and heartbreak. It’s a brilliant showcase for their exuberant melodies, with a folksy violin curling around the lead vocals, all backed by an enthusiastic brass section. The anthemic tunes and sing-a-long choruses are perfect for the Glastonbury crowd. (NOTE: between the time of writing this blog and the announcement of the long list Arthur Rigby sadly announced their demise… so it seems I did not pick a good horse after all. Here’s hoping that my other two choices fare better in the cut throat music world. I wish I could have given someone else a chance.)

2. Alev Lenz – Memphis

Alev Lenz, photo by VIKTOR VAUTHIER

Alev Lenz, photo by Viktor Vauthier.

Alev Lenz by Hannah Boothman

Alev Lenz by Hannah Boothman.

The opening notes of Memphis bear the woozy electronic hallmarks of German/Turkish singer Alev Lenz’s collaboration with acclaimed Finnish drummer Samuli Kosminen (Múm, Hauschka, Kronos Quartet, Jónsi). Her swooping vocals carry a beautiful melody of heartbreak and dreams across softly twinkling keys, a style which is further showcased on Song No.1. In other tracks she effortlessly combines classical influences with electronica to create a unique and engaging sound. I think Alev Lenz is an exciting new talent that we will hear much more from. 

3. George Boomsma – How High The Mountain

George Boomsma

George Boomsma by Angela Lamb

George Boomsma by Angela Lamb.

How High The Mountain is a simple slice of folk which showcases swoonsome vocals from North Yorkshire’s George Boomsma, all bound together by an elegiac violin. I found his live version of the song absolutely mesmerising and feel it would be sure to turn heads and gain fans at Glastonbury. I was also impressed by further tracks, with rollicking tunes and plentiful harmonies. 

I hope you will help me spread the word about these talented musicians, all of whom deserve further recognition x

Written by Amelia Gregory on Wednesday March 5th, 2014 1:43 pm

Categories ,Alev Lenz, ,Angela Lamb, ,Arthur Rigby, ,Arthur Rigby & the Baskervylles, ,Breaking More Waves, ,competition, ,Drowned In Sound, ,Emerging Talent, ,George Boomsma, ,Glastonbury Festival, ,Hannah Boothman, ,How High The Mountain, ,Memphis, ,Moonlit Strangers, ,Samuli Kosminen, ,Song No.1, ,SoundCloud, ,Stay Loose, ,Stornoway, ,TLOFBF, ,Treetop Flyers, ,Viktor Vauthier, ,Warren Clarke

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