James Long – AmeliasMagazine

Amelia’s Magazine | Middlesex University Graduate Fashion Designers 2013: Preview Part One

Annest Gwynedd ethical_menswear-by_gaarte
Annest Gwynedd by Gaarte.

Last week fashion students at Middlesex University held their 2013 internal fashion show, featuring work from over 100 graduating students. Some of them were then chosen by fashion world luminaries (including Louise Gray and James Long) to showcase full collections on the catwalk during Graduate Fashion Week this June: an exciting event to look forward to. Due to a mix up in timings I sadly missed the collections from the first 25 students to show: but here’s the best of those I did see, all of them possible stars of tomorrow. What a wonderful diversity of work on show!

Middlesex Fashion Graduate Show 2013-Annest Gwynedd
Ethical menswear by Annest Gwynedd hit a contemporary nerve with useful pockets adorning aqua and coral coloured tailored coats, and chunky knitwear details.

Middlesex Fashion Graduate Show 2013-Rachel Chapman
Rachel Chapman‘s exotic urban look saw men sporting neon wristband ruffs, appliquéd 3D flowers on shirts and prints inspired by ancient stone carvings on parka coats.

Middlesex Fashion Graduate Show 2013-I.R.Walcott
I.R. Walcott‘s models wore dip-dyed high-tops to match distressed devore garments inspired by the textures of the urban environment.

Middlesex Fashion Graduate Show 2013-Anna Giles
I loved the elegant appliqué detailing on sleek dresses by Anna Giles: in this dress the green lobes remind me of a prickly cactus.

Middlesex Fashion Graduate Show 2013-Grace Peverall
Grace Peverall went dotty with layered body con dresses that reminiscent of all over body painting by Japanese artist Yayoi Kusama.

Middlesex Fashion Graduate Show 2013-Marion Doreau
Marion Doreau styled her menswear with some great papermache animal heads which provided a striking focal point on the catwalk.

Kirsty Anderton 2-by_gaarte

Kirsty Anderton by Gaarte.

Middlesex Fashion Graduate Show 2013 Kirsty Anderton
I don’t believe there can ever be enough over the top knitwear, and Kirsty Anderton‘s skull shaped knitted dress was a major highlight of the show.

Middlesex Fashion Graduate Show 2013-Luke Anthony Rooney
Luke Anthony Rooney successfully mixed wild colours and textures in his sculptural outfits, topped with tiaras.

Middlesex Fashion Graduate Show 2013-Abbie Ridler
I loved the simple styling of Abbie Ridler‘s oversized mens’ jumpers, which were resplendent with abstract motifs inspired by African designs.

Middlesex Fashion Graduate Show 2013-Sophie Chiesa

Sophie Chiesa by Chetna Shetty.

Sophie Chiesa by Cathy Hookey.

Sophie Chiesa‘s discharge printed catsuit was a riot of colour, styled to great effect with over the top hair extensions that would not look out of place on a Barbie doll.

Middlesex Fashion Graduate Show 2013-Anita Tetteh
Anita Tetteh‘s tapered powder pink harem pants were worn with cream chiffon and a pencil skirt and scalloped crop top in bold monochrome stripes were a lesson in understated elegance.

Middlesex Fashion Graduate Show 2013-Shiri Elmekless
Tailored menswear by Shiri Elmekless featured beautiful oversized shirts with clever layers of folds and beautiful button detailing.

Middlesex Fashion Graduate Show 2013-Sylwia Szyplik
Sylwia Szyplik took inspiration from relaxed 80s style in her cream and dove grey collection.

Middlesex Fashion Graduate Show 2013-Christia Charalambous
Scalloped sculptural cutaway shapes were combined with geometric triangle detailing and fringed mohair by Christia Charalambous.

Read my next blog to discover the best of the rest. You saw them here first!

Written by Amelia Gregory on Thursday May 2nd, 2013 11:40 am

Categories ,Abbie Ridler, ,Anita Tetteh, ,Anna Giles, ,Annest Gwynedd, ,Atrium, ,Ba Degree, ,Cathy Hookey, ,Chetna Shetty, ,Christia Charalambous, ,fashion, ,Fashion Textiles, ,Gaarte, ,Grace Peverall, ,graduate, ,Graduate Fashion Week, ,I.R. Walcott, ,James Long, ,Kirsty Anderton, ,Louise Gray, ,Luke Anthony Rooney, ,Marion Doreau, ,middlesex university, ,Rachel Chapman, ,Shiri Elmekless, ,Sophie Chiesa, ,Sylwia Szyplik, ,Yayoi Kusama

Amelia’s Magazine | My adventures at Practicum: British Fashion, put together by the British Council in Moscow

The Moscow Practicum: British Fashion crew in Red Square. All photography by Amelia Gregory. (unless I am in the pic that is)

Just over a week ago I travelled to Moscow with the British Council to talk to a group of young fashion designers from across Europe as part of a educational program called Practicum: British Fashion. I travelled from the UK with Toby Meadows, pilule who offers advice to fashion designers with the Centre for Fashion Enterprise, sales and with Janine Passley, approved an expert in buying and sustainability practices for EI8HT who consults for ASOS.

Moscow Practicum: British Fashion 2011

With Toby Meadows, Janine Passley and Michael Salac.

It was the first time that I have flown in nearly three years. R/H the label travelled from Finland by train to reduce their carbon footprint, but unfortunately it was just that little bit too far for me to do the same…

Moscow Practicum: British Fashion 2011 with Janine Passley and Clare Lopeman
With Janine Passley and Clare Lopeman

It’s the second time I’ve been to Moscow: the first time having been in 2007 when I went there to discover up and coming creatives for issue 8 of Amelia’s Magazine. It takes under 5 hours to fly there, which seems remarkably close for a culture that is so very different from our own.

Moscow Practicum: British Fashion 2011 with Evgenia Gerasimova
Practicum: British Fashion 2011 was put together by Evgenia Gerasimova, seen here introducing the programme.

Moscow Practicum: British Fashion 2011 Kristian Steinberg
Kristian Steinberg gives us his pitch.

Moscow Practicum: British Fashion 2011 Toby Meadows
Toby Meadows in front of a giant plastic bag sculpture in the Garage Centre for Contemporary Culture.

Michael Salac of Blow PR joined us the next day, as did Clare Lopeman, a fashion designer and head of fashion at the British Higher School of Art and Design. Practicum: British Fashion took place in a wonderful old industrial complex known as the Garage Centre for Contemporary Culture, a huge hall that was built in 1926 as a bus garage and that now houses exhibitions, a cafe, lecture halls and a fantastic bookshop.

Moscow The Garage Centre of Contemporary Culture
Moscow’s The Garage Centre for Contemporary Culture.

Moscow Practicum: British Fashion 2011 Toby Meadows
We ate a lot of canapes!

Together we made up a hopefully non scary panel of “experts” who listened to short pitches from the designers, who came from Russia, Slovakia, Slovenia, Poland, Finland, Denmark, Estonia and Latvia. We then offered our opinions and advice on how to improve their businesses – in my case this invariably meant encouraging sustainable practice and prompting them to improve their online presence. The next day it was our turn to lecture on our expert subjects, in my case, How to produce good promotional material that will attract editorial coverage in magazines, and how to promote your brand successfully on social media. Just some of my favourite subjects!

Moscow Practicum: British Fashion 2011 Michael Salac
Practicum: British Fashion lecture with Michael Salac

Moscow British Council Hede Kerstin Luik
Hede Kerstin Luik from the British Council in Estonia

I like teaching and lecturing so I thoroughly enjoyed the experience, and it was lovely that so many people came up to me afterwards to tell me how inspired they were. I took loads of postcards with me and they all got taken which I take as a good sign!

Moscow British Council-after my talk

But what was undoubtedly the most brilliant part of the whole experience was the opportunity to meet lots of wonderfully talented people who are doing really interesting things in their own countries. Sitting at my computer all day every day I sometimes forget that I am very much a people person at heart, and I enjoy hanging out with other people. As is often the case at these kind of events some of the most important networking was done outside of official hours, when we were chatting at the hotel bar or exploring the extremely expensive rooftop bar at the Radisson Hotel which is housed in one of Moscow’s famous Seven Sisters – laughing as we all squished into the tiny lift to zoom up to the 29th floor, and then coming straight back down again when we discovered how expensive it was.

Moscow Practicum: British Fashion Red Square

Moscow Practicum: British Fashion Red Square

The incredibly fancy Radisson toilets…

We also got the opportunity to attend one of the many Russian Fashion Weeks, Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia, for which the British Council had flown over Lulu Kennedy of Fashion East to showcase three of her star designers: Marios Schwab, Louise Gray and James Long.

Moscow British Council-russian fashion week

At Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia, sponsored by, ahem, Tupperware.

Moscow BC 2011-partying after fashion week
Partying after fashion week shenanigans.

I’ll be writing up that experience in a separate blog post. In the meantime here are a bunch of pictures from my time in Moscow… fun times indeed. As a result it looks as though I will be attending Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland in Lodz in early May 2011. Thankyou so much Evgenia Gerasimova and the British Council!

Moscow Red SQUARE soldiers
Soldiers in Red Square.

Moscow Dior advertising
Giant Dior advertising.

Moscow BCmy legs
My legs in the lift.

Moscow BC 2011-Michael and Emilia of R/H
Michael of Blow and Emilia of R/H

Moscow BC 2011-Lovely knitwear in Solyanka
Lovely knitwear in the shop at the Solyanka nightclub.

Moscow BC 2011-Red Square
Red Square

Moscow BC 2011-Russian Dolls
Lots of Russian dolls

Moscow BC 2011-Toby Meadows on the Metro
Toby Meadows on the Metro

Moscow BC 2011-Michael Salac and Janine Passley
Michael Salac and Janine Passley on the Metro

Moscow BC 2011-Metro

Moscow British Council-Amelia Gregory with cocktail
Enjoying an EXTREMELY expensive Cherry Pepper cocktail – like a meal in one!

Written by Amelia Gregory on Tuesday April 12th, 2011 10:49 am

Categories ,1926, ,ASOS, ,Blow PR, ,British Council, ,British Higher School of Art and Design, ,Carbon footprint, ,Centre for Contemporary Culture, ,Centre for Fashion Enterprise, ,Clare Lopeman, ,D.EFECT, ,Denmark, ,EI8HT, ,Estonia, ,Evgenia Gerasimova, ,fashion, ,Fashion East, ,Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week, ,finland, ,Fortytwo, ,garage, ,James Long, ,Janine Passley, ,Kristian Steinberg, ,Latvia, ,Lisa Shahno, ,Lodz, ,Louise Gray, ,Lulu Kennedy, ,Mareunrol’s, ,Marios Schwab, ,Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia, ,Michael Salac, ,Michaela Mazalanova, ,Moscow, ,Nadya Nurieva, ,Networking, ,poland, ,Practicum: British Fashion, ,R/H, ,R/H the label, ,Radisson, ,Red Square, ,Russia!, ,Seven Sisters, ,Slovakia, ,Slovenia, ,Social Networking, ,Soulland, ,sustainability, ,Toby Meadows, ,Tupperware

Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2011 Catwalk Review: James Long

Illustration by Gareth A Hopkins

For Spring Summer 2011 James Long, more about Royal College of Art graduate (fellow Alumni are Carolyn Massey and Erdem) changed track. The military references were replaced by a particular idea of American Outsiders perpetuated by Indie filmmaking. Famed for beautiful leatherwork, cost the designer considerate handling and subtle juxtaposition of materials is evident no matter what the season.

Whereas Spring Summer 2010 provided overtones of unique survival wear in a land desecrated by an as-of-yet unknown environmental atrocity. Spring Summer 2011 replaced action man with louche Woodstock hippy, troche a look also represented this season by JW Anderson.

Illustration by Gareth A Hopkins

After a prolonged absence, wool has firmly re-established itself across the catwalks. For Long’s paint splattered leather came interspersed with block coloured loose knits or dipped dyed swatches. Whilst the collections are often beautiful interpretations of the possibilities within menswear. There was -of course- the ubiquitous nod to the important role Denim has played in the construction of male identity. Long’s use of extra light denim emulated his interest in the film, My Own Private Idaho.

Autumn Winter 2010 saw Long successfully collaborate with experimental film maker, Bruce La Bruce whose blood splattered prints adorned Long’s designs. For Spring Summer 2011, the exquisitely printed leather was outcome from a chance meeting between the designer and artist Ethan Cook (At Woodstock!) and their discovery of a shared interest in materiality.

Illustration by Gareth A Hopkins

The clothes of James Long appear to reside in thoughts of elsewhere, perhaps the occasionally dreary London Landscape lends itself well to the inspirational daydream.

Much has been made of the muted atmosphere year that surrounded the Menswear S/S 2011 collections, an atmosphere that seems out of kilter with the strength of collections being produced by young designers for whom menswear is very much an open concept. More noise next year please and for more reviews on menswear check out Amelia’s Magazine Fashion Archive.

Written by Sally Mumby-Croft on Monday October 4th, 2010 12:11 pm

Categories ,Bruce La Bruce, ,Carolyn Massey, ,Erdem, ,Ethan Cook, ,Fashion East, ,Gareth A Hopkins, ,James Long, ,JW Anderson, ,Lulu Kennedy, ,Man, ,menswear, ,Royal College of Art, ,The Road, ,Woodstock

Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week Menswear A/W 2010: James Long

Illustration by Gemma Milly

James Long is bringing the boiler suit back, medical and he’s bringing it completed with printed references to the work of Bruce La Bruce, prostate an avante garde experimental film maker. Blood Stains made graphic (a recent exhibition of Wallpaper in Manchester featured wallpaper printed with splashed blood stains… one for avid CSI fans.)

The Spring Summer collection provided functional Utilitarian and at times, damn pretty work wear, thanks to a variety of appearances by the following fabrics; Denim, Corduroy, Cotton, Leather and feathers.

The collection was inspired by Laurie Anderson’s O Superman video.

The leather trousers from previous seasons made a welcome comeback, as did the continutation knitwear ranging from a fine knit to the chunkier variety.
James Long’s forte is his combination of contrasting materials.

The corduroy was welcomed in it’s sheer thickness. Whilst Long’s use of a deep navy blue provided a richness increasing the texture of the garments.

Illustration by Gemma Milly

Big Coats incase an environmental disaster does strike…

The finale, the future still looks bleak… but beautifully designed.

All photography by Matt Bramford

Written by Sally Mumby-Croft on Tuesday March 2nd, 2010 3:25 pm

Categories ,british fashion council, ,Fashion East, ,James Long, ,London Fashion Week Autumn Winter 2010, ,Lulu Kennedy, ,Man

Amelia’s Magazine | Graduate Fashion Week Extra: Royal College of Art MA 2010

Illustration by Gemma Milly of Zara Gorman’s Millinery.

Over the last few years the RCA’s MA Fashion course has quietly been producing a series of extremely talented designers; from those reinventing menswear: James Long and Katie Eary to the individual take on womenswear by Michael van der Ham, hospital Erdem and Holly Fulton (whose influence could already be seen on the Bournemouth catwalk). All of whom (except perhaps, stomach Erdem) subsequently – pretty much straight away- showed at London Fashion Week via Lulu Kennedy’s Fashion East.

Zara Gorman’s graduated from the Milinery MA (a class of one) with her exquisitely shaped hats constructed from a combination of leather, pilule wood and plastic.

Illustration by Katey Harvey

Astrid Andersen plays with fashion’s ability to celebrate and pastiche it’s own brand at the same time on the same item (think LV’s monogrammed bags or Moschino Jeans). Her menswear re-constructed the base elements of sportswear – the hoody, the sweatpants through incredibly luxurious materials (sadly this show was sponsored by Kopenhagen Fur – this is not a luxury material!). This was sportswear for the nouveau riche and a celebration of trashy aesthetics so loved by Eddie of Ab Fab…

The less media friendly elements of sportswear were visited on the RCA catwalk this year, Courtney McWilliams’s take on casual wear focused on the harder youth. Who displayed across t-shirts and jackets what in recent years has come to represent a particular type of English youth: the Pit Bull. The word ‘Chav’ being the inspiration for a couple of the 2010 MA graduates, this collection was a literal inspiration of a term created in the media. Both designers exaggerated how an idea of masculine dominance and power can be created through dress and aesthetic choice, playing with the viewers ability to associate certain items of dress with particular ideas surrounding masculinity.

Illustration by Joseph Keirs

In contrast to Andersen and McWilliams, Trine Jensen provided a jovial take on menswear through his breathtaking sweaters covered with charms (as in bracelet) to hoops. A nod to the collector within us all.

Victoria Stone’s cut up chiffon shirts in conjunction with her oversized suits presented a masculine take on womenswear, a look for those inspired by Woody Allen’s Annie Hall Illustration By Marnie Hollande

Sam McCoach’s tubular tightly woven knitwear sashed down the catwalk. The ankle grazing dresses set off by the muted colour block graphic coats, complete with exaggerated rounded shoulders. A nod perhaps to Louise Goldin experimental knitwear.

Illustration by Lesley Barnes

Poppy Cartwright’s white collection was skin tight and slightly trashy through the use of high shine trousers. The collection celebrated femininity and the female form through the cut of the dress falling tight across the body. The body emphasised through the sections cut out and the white on white embroidery.

All illustrations by Naomi Law

Frances Convey’s colour and shapes were a moment of joy, the designer’s soft fabrics accentuating hips and shoulders.

Illustration by Katie Harvey

The monochrome creped collection by Cecile Bahnsen came complete with 1990′s inspired sportswear jackets. Elements of grunge reappeared through the designers choice of length – often the dresses hang tightly around the ankle. Flashes of Amber from clueless appear with the presentation of the Fez hat. It’s that time already. The revival of the 1990′s.

Illustration by Marnie Hollande

Bahnsen’s graphic monochrome was interspersed with pastel pink dresses constructed through negative spacing.

Yuri Yufere dramatic feminine shapes were hardened by the narrow metal poles woven into the garments, creating a visible extension of the body. Pushing the material into that grey area of personal space which surrounds us all. This year’s 2010 graduates presented an incredible exhibition of the craft, research and invention currently occurring within the RCA’s Fashion Department. Amelia’s Magazine waits eagerly to see where they go next.

Illustration by Lesley Barnes

Written by Sally Mumby-Croft on Friday June 18th, 2010 10:23 am

Categories ,Astrid Andersen, ,Cecile Bahnsen, ,Courtney McWilliams, ,Erdem, ,fashion, ,Fashion East, ,Frances Convey, ,Gemma Milly, ,Graduate Fashion Week, ,James Long, ,Joseph Keirs, ,Katey Harvey, ,Katie Eary, ,knitwear, ,Lesley Barnes, ,Lulu Kennedy, ,ma, ,Marnie Hollande, ,menswear, ,Michael van der Ham, ,millinery, ,Poppy Cartwright, ,rca, ,Royal College of Art, ,Sam McCoach, ,Victoria Stone, ,Womenswear, ,Yuri Yufere, ,Zara Gorman

Amelia’s Magazine | James Long: London Collections: Men S/S 2015 Catwalk Review

James Long S/S 2015 by Helen Marudas

I haven’t been to a James Long show for a few seasons now. I’m not sure why. It might be that they just didn’t want me there. That’s fine. This season was a different story, though, and I’m dead chuffed that I went along. We were greeted by handsome chaps in trademark James Long graphic tees serving rosé wine. Just as I swallowed mine in two gulps, a lady kindly notified me that I could, had I wanted to, take it to my seat, which was a little embarrassing.

All photography by Matt Bramford

Anyway, gone were the glued-down hair dos and quilted fabrics of last season to make way for a fresh, beachy, summertime approach. Models appeared one after the other with flowing, surfer locks and nonchalant expressions as if they had strode in from some hipster beach that you haven’t heard of.

James Long S/S 2015 by Helen Marudas

Overall, it was a complex, multi-faceted collection. The show invitation had a small piece of fabric stapled to it, which would be a detail that formed the basis of many of the looks. The first model wore a denim jacket with aforementioned fabric stripes attached with abandon, teamed with a long, mesh t-shirt dress and jeans to match the jacket.

Then came shorts with the same treatment; frayed at the leg with thick, elasticated waists – a homage to boxers, which was a key theme here. Graphic, stripy t-shirts and stripy socks were aplenty. The emphasis was on jazzed up sportswear, with more mesh, more waistbands, tapered joggers and James’ trademark wrap shorts jazzed up for next summer. The quilted experiments of last season moved into bubble-knit sweaters, tucked into shorts to provide a laid back look that James has perfected this time around.

Statement pieces come in the form of t-shirts and jumpers with a loose, scripted ‘JAMES‘ logo that I am left lusting after. Appearing in different colours, this new logo filled the front and back of garments and crept up sleeves.

A collaboration with LUNETTES KOLLEKTION saw models wear a variety of circular, mirrored sunglasses and quilted nylon bags completed the looks. This was without doubt one of my favourite collections this season and I can’t wait to see what happens next.

Written by Matt Bramford on Tuesday June 24th, 2014 12:53 pm

Categories ,catwalk, ,fashion, ,Helen Marudas, ,James Long, ,knitwear, ,LCM, ,LCMSS2015, ,london, ,London Collections Men, ,LUNETTES KOLLEKTION, ,Matt Bramford, ,menswear, ,Old Sorting Office, ,review, ,SS15, ,stripes

Amelia’s Magazine | British Fashion Designers at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia A/W 2011: Louise Gray

Louise Gray A/W 2011 by Abi Heyneke.

For almost the entire trip to Russia I was convinced that Louise Gray was another girl in the Fashion East entourage… it was only when she stepped out to take her bow on the catwalk that I realised she was the very tiny blonde girl in sky high heels. Louise is a textile designer at heart, remedy and her colourful vision has attracted an almost unfeasible amount of hype in recent years: I tried to see her show this season at London Fashion Week but arrived too late to get into the tiny On/Off venue. This was a great way to see her show in a slightly less pressurised arena, site in front of an audience who might not be quite so frantically enthusiastic about her amazing technicolour palette.

Louise Gray A/W 2011 by Maria Papadimitriou aka Slowly the Eggs.

Louise Gray A/W 2011 Russia Photography by Amelia Gregory
Louise Gray A/W 2011 by Abi Heyneke

Her A/W 2011 collection lived up to expectations: all clashing primary tartans and devilishly playful spotty make up which had been slightly toned down from her London show. The first model strode down the catwalk with an amused smile upon her lips as well she might given that she was sporting a metallic blue ruffled shorts suit accessorised with helium heart balloons that drifted above her head. The range encompassed dresses, shirts and mohair coats, all worn with thigh high patent spotty boots. Peel away a few of the garments and there was usually one that could easily be worn alone by someone less daring than the Louise Gray archetype. A lot of fun, but one can only wonder what the much more conservative Russian audience thought of it all. Here’s hoping they went away inspired by the possibilities of what fashion can be.

Louise Gray A/W 2011 Russia Photography by Amelia Gregory
Louise Gray A/W 2011. All photography by Amelia Gregory.