Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week Fashion Scout Ones To Watch S/S 2015 Catwalk Review

Youjia Jin SS2015 by Dom&Ink
Youjia Jin SS2015 by Dom&Ink.

This season Fashion Scout‘s Ones to Watch featured two designers that I spotted some time ago, and two that were new to me. Somewhat impressively, three are also alumni of the London College of Fashion.

Youjia Jin SS 2015 photography by Amelia Gregory
Youjia Jin SS 2015 photography by Amelia Gregory
Youjia Jin SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Youjia Jin SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Youjia Jin SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Youjia Jin SS 2015 photo by Amelia GregoryYoujia Jin SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Youjia Jin SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Youjia Jin SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Youjia Jin SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
All photography by Amelia Gregory.

First up Youjia Jin introduced an elegant and sophisticated predominantly monochrome collection that was sent down the catwalk to a backdrop of tribal beats. Draped pleats, belts, flared waists and cable knit were used to spice up an elegant selection of suiting worn with flat two tone shoes. The use of see through voile and steel grey dip dyeing brought further interest to a collection that was very commercially aware.

MIN WU SS2015 by Dom&Ink
MIN WU SS2015 by Dom&Ink.

Min Wu SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Min Wu SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Min Wu SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Min Wu SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Min Wu SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Min Wu SS 2015 photo by Amelia GregoryMin Wu SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Min Wu SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Min Wu SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Min Wu SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Min Wu SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Next up Min Wu did not disappoint. In fact I think this was definitely my favourite collection of the lot; somehow combining an avante grade use of fabrics and silhouette to create a very wearable and fun collection. Billowy tops were worn with suiting striped shorts, billowing chiffon bounced from hips and trompe l’oeil plastic provided additional interest. As always Min Wu accompanied the collection with marvellous accessories: curlicued headbands, colourful oversize beads and bright buttons.

Keisho Nishiyama_OnesToWatch_by_gaarte .jpg
Keisho Nishiyama by Gaarte.

Keiko Nishiyama SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Keiko Nishiyama SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Keiko Nishiyama SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Keiko Nishiyama SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Keiko Nishiyama SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Keiko Nishiyama SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Keiko Nishiyama SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Keiko Nishiyama SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Keiko Nishiyama SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Keiko Nishiyama SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Keiko Nishiyama SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Smoke City’s classic 90s track Underwater Love accompanied the second collection from Keiko Nishiyama. In her preview interview the Japanese designer explained how she was inspired by aquariums and collections of objects. Fluid fabrics were layered with more structured garments, printed tights adding to the busy effect. This collection was as highly patterned as her first; featuring shells, coral and fishes aplenty, but I wild have liked to see a bit more variety in her print designs.

Cassandra verity green_OnesToWatch_by_gaarte
Cassandra Verity Green by Gaarte.

Cassandra Verity Green SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Cassandra Verity Green SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Cassandra Verity Green SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Cassandra Verity Green SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Cassandra Verity Green SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Cassandra Verity Green SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Cassandra Verity Green SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Cassandra Verity Green SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Cassandra Verity Green SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Finally, Cassandra Verity went for a clubby feel with body con t-shirt dresses, cut out leggings and a variety of acid knitted textures. Brightly coloured wigs and fluff on collars, stoles and low heeled shoes added to the party atmosphere, with rigid plastic backpacks and clutch bags adding a very 90s air to the catwalk. Patterning was circular and optical in nature. Certainly not a collection for the faint hearted!

Categories ,Cassandra Verity, ,catwalk, ,Dom&Ink, ,Fashion Scout, ,Gaarte, ,Keiko Nishiyama, ,knitwear, ,London College of Fashion, ,Min Wu, ,Ones To Watch, ,review, ,S/S 2015, ,Smoke City, ,SS15, ,Underwater Love, ,Youjia Jin

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Amelia’s Magazine | Keiko Nishiyama: Ones to Watch S/S 2015 London Fashion Week Preview

Keiko Nishiyama by Sarah Rossignol
Keiko Nishiyama by Sarah Rossignol.

Japanese born fashion designer Keiko Nishiyama is another LCF graduate, whose work I fell in love with last year, so I am super excited to see her new collection on the Fashion Scout Ones to Watch catwalk tomorrow, where she will debut her S/S 2015 collection.

Keiko Nishiyama by daria hlazatova
Keiko Nishiyama by Daria Hlazatova.

Keiko Nishiyama mood board SS 2015 3
Keiko Nishiyama S/S 2015 mood board.

When did you first begin your love affair with print design?
I really grew to treasure the way that print could be used on my MA course at London College of Fashion, but I have always loved colour and painting. My parents took me to museums on many occasions and gave me painting tools when I was young, so I have been surrounded by creative inspiration since I was child.

Keiko Nishiyama mood board SS 2015
Keiko Nishiyama mood board SS 2015 2
Keiko Nishiyama S/S 2015 mood boards.

What inspirations have influenced your new collection?
This season the collection is inspired by the themes of Aquarium and collections of objects known as Wunderkammer, or Cabinets of Curiosities. These have again become a forward-looking movement in museums today, with the creation of interesting, odd collections or rooms that are designed to provoke people’s curiosity. The S/S 2015 collection’s iconic model is a mermaid that was inspired by the film Night Tide, directed by Curtis Harrington.

Keiko Nishiyama 2013 aw collection by Ema Koshigoe
Keiko Nishiyama A/W 2013 collection by Ema Koshigoe.

What were the highlights of studying at the London College of Fashion?
The LCF MA course gave me a chance to become accomplished in my style and techniques of creation, as well as teaching me time management as a professional designer. Through my final collection, I learned how to minimise and balance my garment silhouettes with the print design. I was very pleased to have the opportunity to go on this course and gain so much experience in fashion.

Keiko Nishiyama
What are your hopes for the future?
I want to create collections that feature highly ornate design, especially where the print of the textiles is concerned. I hope that my designs will give women the chance to gain another dimension and confidence both introspectively and physically. In the future I want to help women coordinate my print world in both their clothing and lifestyles.

Categories ,Aquarium, ,Cabinets of Curiosities, ,Curtis Harrington, ,Daria Hlazatova, ,Ema Koshigoe, ,Fashion Scout, ,interview, ,japanese, ,Keiko Nishiyama, ,London College of Fashion, ,London Fashion Week, ,Night Tide, ,Ones To Watch, ,preview, ,S/S 2015, ,Sarah Rossignol, ,Wunderkammer

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Amelia’s Magazine | LCF MA Fashion Show 2013, Womenswear: London Fashion Week Catwalk Review

Yi Xie by Jacqueline Valencia
Yi Xie by Jacqueline Valencia.

London College of Fashion womenswear designers showed a series of polished collections, most of which were accessoried with amazing footwear that I was able to ogle as the models climbed the reflective steps onto the raised catwalk at the Royal Opera House.

LCF MA fashion AW 2013-Maddalena Mangialavori
LCF MA fashion AW 2013-Maddalena Mangialavori
LCF MA fashion AW 2013-Maddalena Mangialavori
Maddalena Mangialavori applied raffia fringing to loose fitting dresses, and pretty ruffs to bodices worn with A-line and pencil skirts. Lop-sided low-brimmed hats collapsed over one eye, lending a jaunty air to muted colours in a variety of different textures.

LCF MA fashion AW 2013 Nadia Scullion
LCF MA fashion AW 2013 Nadia Scullion
Nadia Scullion played with ice cream shades; pastel blues and lemon yellow layered together to create a collection of clean lines that were broken with raggy edged socks and collars. A darker coat decorated with a baby blue waist trim was one of the pieces that caught my eye.

LCF MA fashion AW 2013-Min Wu
LCF MA fashion AW 2013-Min Wu
LCF MA fashion AW 2013-Min Wu
LCF MA fashion AW 2013-Min Wu
Min Wu‘s beautiful collection took the concept of tie-dye to a new level; jelly coloured panels fading into creamy white furls of fabric that lay flat against the waist or swung nonchalantly from the neck. Plastic soled shoes worked brilliantly with these gorgeous garments.

LCF MA fashion AW 2013-Sian Davies
LCF MA fashion AW 2013-Sian Davies
Sian Davies worked in blocky oatmeal shades; tight latex paired with over-sized tops.

LCF MA fashion AW 2013-Yi Xie
LCF MA fashion AW 2013-Yi Xie
LCF MA fashion AW 2013-Yi Xie
yi xie
LFW Yi Xie by Angela Lamb
Yi Xie by Angela Lamb.

I absolutely adored the work of Yi Xie, as did my instagram feed when I shared a photo of her intricate pleated trouser suit, luscious flames of orange licking against the vibrating blues on shoulder, waist and calves. I can see her undulating body con dresses selling really well.

LCF MA fashion AW 2013-Keiko Nishiyama
LCF MA fashion AW 2013-Keiko Nishiyama
LCF MA fashion AW 2013-Keiko Nishiyama
LCF-MA_by_Gaarte
Keiko Nishiyama by Gaarte.

Last and by no means least came possibly my favourite collection of all: Keiko Nishiyama covered blowsy shirts and bib fronted dresses with stunning engineered floral prints that made the digital revolution all her own: fields of flowers on a white ground were styled with matching patterned tights and peasant shoes with exaggerated up-turned toes. Just delightful!

LCF MA fashion AW 2013-Keiko Nishiyama
LCF MA fashion AW 2013-Keiko Nishiyama
All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,2013, ,Angela Lamb, ,bodycon, ,Digital Prints, ,floral, ,Gaarte, ,graduate, ,Jacqueline Valencia, ,Keiko Nishiyama, ,London College of Fashion, ,London Fashion Week, ,Maddalena Mangialavori, ,Min Wu, ,Nadia Scullion, ,review, ,Royal Opera House, ,Sian Davies, ,Womenswear, ,Yi Xie

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