Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Catwalk Review: Ones To Watch

Phoebe English 2 by Joana Faria Ones To Watch London Fashion Week S/S 2011
Phoebe English S/S 2012 by
Joana Faria

The runways rows at Fashion Scout were packed to their peak for Ones To Watch this season. And after a sneaky trip backstage (to use their loo!) and a run-in with a very dismissive blonde girl, thumb I managed to squeeze myself into the front row. Ones To Watch has become an important platform for rising designers to make their way to the international fashion stage. Four new faces – Phoebe English, check Alice Lee, this Shao Yen and Malene Oddershede Bach – were showcasing their talent in the form of a mini-collection and there was a certain buzz in the air about what these new talents had produced.

Phoebe English by Joana Faria Ones To Watch London Fashion Week S/S 2011
Phoebe English S/S 2012 by Joana Faria

First up was Phoebe English. Whatever the opinion on her chosen style, the garments had to have taken eons to produce. Immensely dense, tightly-packed folds of fabric in either cream or black. There was certainly a high level of textile skill involved, yes. But to me, with boxy and unflattering garments that bore no real dress-making credibility, the concept itself seemed lazy. It would be interesting to know what inspired and went into the collection. On face value alone, however, I wasn’t blown away.

Ones to Watch Phoebe English SS 2011 review-010
Ones to Watch Phoebe English SS 2011 review-016
Ones to Watch Phoebe English SS 2011 review-025
All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Strangely enough, the dismissive blonde girl I had dealt with in the backstage loos turned out to be Phoebe English. Yes. I only discovered this when she took to the catwalk to take her bow at the end of her section. Awkward. (Note: There is no link between this and my indifference towards the clothes!)

Ones to Watch Phoebe English SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Phoebe English SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Phoebe English SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Next was Shao Yen. This Central Saint Martins graduate had gone for a colour choice of gold and black, inspired by ‘the photos of prostitutes that an American photographer took in the 1980s and 90s’ as he told the Central News Agency. Hence the amount of boob flashing, I guess.


Ones to Watch Shao Yen SS 2011 review-photo Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Shao Yen SS 2011 review-photo Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Shao Yen SS 2011 review-photo Amelia Gregory
Most looks were slim, elongated blends of different textures – both sheer (for extra boob-revealing action) and covering satin. Different body-parts were sexily revealed in each look – a leg or an arm and shoulder – giving an interesting aesthetic appeal. Some models wore strange big black spindly hats, almost witch-like, and one poor girl struggled to keep hers on as she paced the catwalk.






There was imagination and a certain greatness in Shao Yen‘s conceptualising, showing room for more in years to come. One thing I couldn’t get my head around, however, was the purposeful unfinished look. A layer of gold netting, seemingly gluegunned onto an un-hemmed gold dress? Nuh uh. Not for me.

Alice Lee by Joana Faria Ones To Watch London Fashion Week S/S 2011
Alice Lee by Joana Faria 1 London Fashion Week LFW S/S 2012
Alice Lee S/S 2012 by Joana Faria

My complaints die down for the last two Ones to Watch designers – Alice Lee and Malene Oddershede Bach (what a mouthful) – who both shone in terms of innovation, skill and wearability.

Ones to Watch Alice Lee SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia gregory
Ones to Watch Alice Lee SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia gregory
Ones to Watch Alice Lee SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia gregory
Ones to Watch Alice Lee SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia gregory
Ones to Watch Alice Lee SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia gregory

Alice Lee‘s knits were tight-fitting with sexy v-neck cuts and integrated patent chains (which I loved) hence they’re womanly wearibility. Sitting on the front-row, I was close enough to see the garment detail and the quality of the dress-making was undisputed. Models wore circular headpieces that I couldn’t help but match to Princess LeiaStar Wars inspiration? Quite possibly!




Alice Lee by Claire Kearns Ones To Watch London Fashion Week LFW S/S 2012
Alice Lee S/S 2012 by Claire Kearns

In Malene Oddershede Bach‘s colour-popping collection stood my favourite outfit of the whole of Day 1. For a designer just starting out, she’d produced a very impressive balance of thematics, individuality and bang-on trends. In her collaboration of intense turquoise and fluoro yello, something very addictive was created. Classic ladylike dresses blended from the yellow to turquoise, top to bottom, delicate snakeskin to full-on circular python print. Outstandingly beautiful. In my opinion, it stood out miles amongst the other desginers, although I stand firm in feeling Alice Lee perhaps looked the more accomplished designer in the group.

Malene Oddershede Bach by Claire Kearns LFW Ones to Watch London Fashion Week S/S 2012
Malene Oddershede Bach S/S 2012 by Claire Kearns

Malene Oddershede Bach 2 by Phoebe Kirk Ones To Watch London Fashion Week S/S 2012
Malene Oddershede Bach S/S 2012 by Phoebe Kirk.



Ones to Watch Malene Oddershede Bach SS 2011 review-photo Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Malene Oddershede Bach SS 2011 review-photo Amelia Gregory
Malene Oddershede Bach 1 by Phoebe Kirk Ones To Watch London Fashion Week S/S 2012
Malene Oddershede Bach S/S 2012 by Phoebe Kirk.


Malene Oddershede Bach 3 by Phoebe Kirk Ones To Watch London Fashion Week S/S 2012
Malene Oddershede Bach S/S 2012 by Phoebe Kirk

Ones to Watch Malene Oddershede Bach SS 2011 review-photo Amelia Gregory



With Lee and Oddershede Bach, I feel Ones To Watch was very appropriately named. I won’t be forgetting their names any time soon and I’ll be keeping a firm eye on them for the future. And Malene, I would gladly purchase that strong-shouldered cape and top combination any day. So do contact me if it’s up for sale; I can tell you’re gonna go far!

Categories ,Alice Lee, ,Boobs, ,Central Saint Martins, ,Claire Kearns, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Joana Faria, ,knitwear, ,London Fashion Week, ,London Fashion Week S/S 2012, ,Malene Oddershede Bach, ,Nudity, ,Ones To Watch, ,Phoebe English, ,Phoebe Kirk, ,Princess Leia, ,Prostitutes, ,Shao Yen Chen, ,Sheer, ,Star Wars, ,Vauxhall Fashion Scout

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2011 Preview – A few more favourites…


Mr and Mrs Collingham, case illustrated by Krister Selin

When my oldest pal Lydia announced her engagement and subsequent wedding, I struggled to imagine her having a generic do with a meringue dress and posed pictures. Her list of likes include folk and rock music, vintage fashion and living a sustainable day-to-day life. So it was no surprise when she declared that her wedding would take place in the woods.

I apologise in advance if this article may seem a little self-indulgent, and the truth is, it probably is. Well, sod it.


Lydia and Nathan

Lydia and Nathan’s day began at the local town hall, with a low key ceremony. I had been so nervous about my continous blubbing throughout, but as The Beatles’ Love Me Do skipped on an old portable CD player, my tears turned to laughter. Lydia entered in a floor length Grecian-inspired dress with an artificial pose of sunflowers. Blimey, these civil ceremonies don’t last long do they? Before I knew it, they were Mr and Mrs Collingham and we were ushered outside to pose on the lawn. (Is it a civil ceremony when you get married at a registry office? I hope so).


Camping! Illustrated by Natasha Thompson

Anyway, the festivities began. Car-sharing had been arranged prior to the day (unfortunately there isn’t any easier way of getting around our small network of tiny villages) and guests had been discouraged from travelling from overseas. We arrived at the reception, set in our friend Alice’s beautiful garden. Lydia and Nathan are really fortunate to have such lovely friends who already take sustainability and climate change very seriously. The newlyweds had tried to create a festival vibe, whilst keeping carbon emisions to a minimum. We were all camping! A little camping area had been set up at the entrance to the woods, where tents had been pitched, and for a split second I could have been at any of the summer festivals – coloured tapers adorned the trees and homemade signs with directions had been painted.

Next up – food and booze. The food was incredible, and all locally sourced to reduce environmental impact. Organic elderflower champagne was provided as a reception drink, served with delicious vegan canapés. A delicious hog roast, provided by local butchers, was layed on for the meat eaters, but the menu was, by and large, vegan. Lydia’s mum had made a gorgeous mushroom en croute to accompany Ecoworks’ delicious selection of salads and nut roasts, and some of the vegatables had been sourced right here from the gardens!




The food! Illustrated by Kayleigh Bluck

Ecoworks is a community organisation based in Nottinghamshire with ‘the interests of people and the environment at its heart’. They work on conservation and restoration projects and run the FRESH project, which champions regeneration, education in sustainability and health.

They also run courses that encourage people to grow the good stuff and eat sustainably. Their Harvest Café van (a gorgeous converted vintage Citroën H van, no less) caters at festivals and events and specialises in vegetarian and vegan food, They provided spuds in the evening, with chilli or dahl, and a veggie breakfast the following day. I didn’t manage any of the latter because I had the world’s worst hangover, but I’m told it was a delight…

Lydia and Nathan’s dog Polly even managed to get in on the action, dressed to the nines in a ruffle of sunflowers…

Illustration of Polly by Naomi Law


I’m always hot for a Stella McCartney shoe – especially sourced on eBay at a bargain price. You can put the girl in the woods, but she’ll still wear hot shoes. AND Stella would have been proud. Sorry, I couldn’t resist… arrrrr!


Illustration by Michelle Urvall Nyrén

And so, very quickly, the afternoon turned to the evening and it was time to party, after taking a visit to one of the garden’s many eco loos. A total shock for many, this was. Wails of ‘Is that really where I go to the bloody lav?’ could be heard in the camping area, but just about everybody got used to it pretty quickly. One guest, who shall remain nameless, was even caught photographing down one…

Hay bales covered in vintage blankets created space for guests to mingle, while the epicentre was The Dome.

This recycled space appeared like a vision of the future from the 1960s, and Alice’s mum kindly informed me that it used to operate as a swimming pool cover. It was in here that local live bands played, including the wonderful 10 O’clock Horses – a suitable blend of folk, rock, roots and punk. Lydia and Nathan had their first dance to this band’s first song (as I stood aghast) and then we all had a good ol’ jig.


10 O’clock Horses, illustrated by Jaymie O’Callaghan

Candles lit the gardens, which was a bit of a struggle to begin with but we all soon got used to it and danced into the small hours. And so after a few too many organic beers and far too much shameful dancing on my behalf, it was time for bed. What a fabulous, fabulous day.

We retired to our tents, and Lydia and Nathan skipped off to their tepee to consumate their marriage…


Lydia and Nathan in front of their teepee, photographed by Paul Saxby

I have no idea if they did or not.
David Longshaw

For Spring Summer 2011, seek David Longshaw says he was inspired by ‘chav dogs, information pills feathers and a ruffle or two and a story I wrote’. The tale apparently describes the outcome when some hoodies break into a stately home and end up dressing up in period clothing. I am waiting with baited breath to see the results! Don’t miss David’s upcoming round up of London Fashion Week exclusively for Amelia’s Magazine.

Eudon Choi

A/W 2010, photographed by Matt Bramford

Eudon Choi has been much talked-about over the six months that have passed since the last London Fashion Week. As well as being awarded Vauxhall Fashion Scout’s Merit Award, he was named as a winner of the BFC Elle Talent Launch Pad. His Merit Award collection has been greatly anticipated; expect industrial references, masculine tailoring and military embellishments, cutting an edgy yet sophisticated silhouette.

Bernard Chandran


A/W 2010, photographed by Matt Bramford

Malaysia’s Prince of Fashion, Bernard Chandran, continued to impress with his powerful, glimmering A/W 2010 collection. Glamour prevailed; power shoulders were paired with luxe beading, sequins, feathers and exposed backs, providing the ultimate in wearable opulence. Look out for Lady Gaga and Florence Welch queuing up for his fresh flamboyance.

Eley Kishimoto

A/W 2010, photographed by Matt Bramford

Eley Kishimoto never fail to impress with their unmistakable graphic prints. Expect another eclectic mix for S/S 2011, with inspiration cited as “imitation, 3D on 2D and clothes drying on a rack”. After a notably scaled-down, pop-up shop presence last Fashion Week, it will be interesting to see what they show this time at Shoreditch Studios.

Ziad Ghanem

Ziad Ghanem couture, illustrated by Joana Faria

When Matt Bramford recently interviewed couturier Ziad Ghanem for Amelia’s Magazine, he revealed that he has been making a film for his new collection. After February’s show-stopping runway performance from Immodesty Blaize, the onscreen unveiling of his latest collection is eagerly anticipated.

Categories ,A/W 2010, ,Bernard Chandran, ,BFC, ,british fashion council, ,David Longshaw, ,Eley Kishimoto, ,Elle Magazine, ,Eudon Choi, ,illustrations, ,Joana Faria, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,Matt Bramford, ,Naomi Law, ,preview, ,S/S 2011, ,Ziad Ghanem

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Catwalk Review: Paul Costelloe

Paul Costello 3_by Gilly Rochester LFW SS 2012
Paul Costelloe S/S 2012 by Gilly Rochester

Butterflies doing cartwheels in my tummy and the feeling that my consciousness has surreptitiously tiptoed away, adiposity wanting to take in everything… right now; it can only be the start of London Fashion Week.

Paul Costelloe  by Amber Cassidy, <a target=order London Fashion Week, mind SS 2012″ title=”Paul Costelloe by Amber Cassidy, London Fashion Week, SS 2012″ width=”480″ height=”680″ class=”aligncenter size-full wp-image-49295″ />
Paul Costelloe S/S 2012 by Amber Cassidy

Paul Costelloe SS 2012 review London Fashion Week by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costello SS 2012 London Fashion Week Akeela Bhattay
Paul Costello London Fashion Week SS 2012 Akeela Bhattay
All photography by Amelia Gregory, Akeela Bhattay and Matt Bramford

It’s the first show of the day and there’s a rush of excitement bustling through Somerset House. I wait impatiently in the queue for the Paul Costelloe show, surrounded by familiar press talk and the occasional exclamation of ‘Darling!‘ kiss kiss – a scene which will be re-enacted many times during the this week.

Paul Costelloe SS 2012 review London Fashion Week by Amelia Gregory
LFW London Fashion Week SS2012 PaulCostelloe by Matt Bramford
LFW London Fashion Week SS2012 PaulCostelloe by Matt Bramford
Paul costello Joana Faria SS 12 London Fashion Week
Paul Costelloe S/S 2012 Joana Faria

Once inside, I find my seat at the front, secure my goody bag, retrieve my camera from my exhausted looking satchel and decide that taking notes and photographs at the same time is not achievable (for me, that is), so do away with my notebook. There’s a flurry of photographers suddenly surrounding guests further down the row and I want to see what all the fuss is about; It’s Jimmy Choo and Autumn Philips. A quick ‘snap snap’ with my decrepit camera and back to my seat before the show starts.

Jimmy Choo at Paul Costelloe SS 2012 London Fashion Week Akeela Bhattay
Paul Costelloe SS 2011 review-Autumn Philips
Jimmy Choo and Autumn Philips.

Paul Costelloe SS 2012 review London Fashion Week by Amelia Gregory
LFW London Fashion Week SS2012 PaulCostelloe by Matt Bramford
LFW London Fashion Week SS2012 PaulCostelloe by Matt Bramford
Paul Costello 2_by Gilly Rochester LFW SS 2012
Paul Costelloe S/S 2012 by Gilly Rochester

Out glides the first model, her hair in large messy but firm pin curls and knots pinned close to the head with eye-make up in pea green (one of my favourite colours) that jumps out at you. She wears a tailored suit in café au lait, with the jacket in a 1940’s inspired style; slightly puffed sleeves, tapered collar and a slim belt accentuating the waist. The skirt however conforms more to the style of the mini-skirt and with loose pleats the outfit looks effortlessly chic.

Paul Costelloe SS 2012 review London Fashion Week by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costello London Fashion Week SS 2012 Akeela Bhattay
Paul Costello SS 2012 London Fashion Week Akeela Bhattay
Paul Costello SS 2012 London Fashion Week Akeela Bhattay
Paul Costelloe SS 2012 review London Fashion Week by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costelloe  by Amber Cassidy SS 2012 London Fashion Week
Paul Costelloe S/S 2012 by Amber Cassidy

Hues of cream, grey and monochrome forge ahead; structured suits with pleated detail and baby doll dresses with flouncy sleeves and cap sleeves, high collars and ruff collars, and high waists, distinctive of the 1960s mod fashion. The 60’s influence continues through most of the collection, with sailor collars, high waists and short hemlines. Billowing sleeves meanwhile, and wide neck collars hint of the medieval.

LFW London Fashion Week SS2012 PaulCostelloe by Matt Bramford
LFW London Fashion Week SS2012 PaulCostelloe by Matt Bramford
Paul costello Joana Faria SS 2012 London Fashion Week
Paul Costelloe S/S 2012 by Joana Faria

The muted colours bloom into a concoction of pastels that remind me of a box of Parisian macaroons, in candy floss pink, bittersweet peach and mint ice-cream green. The rich brocade fabrics in these delectable colours ooze femininity and an inhibited playfulness, a characteristic synonymous with the 1960’s. The tailored jackets and shift dresses , evocative of Jackie Kennedy and Mad Men, too celebrate femininity.

Paul Costello SS 2012 London Fashion Week Akeela Bhattay
LFW London Fashion Week SS2012 Paul Costelloe by Matt Bramford
Paul Costello 1 by Gilly Rochester LFW SS 2012
Paul Costelloe S/S 2012 by Gilly Rochester

LFW London Fashion Week SS2012 Paul Costelloe by Matt Bramford

The menswear collection harks to an era much further away with, Edwardian austerity pleasantly combined with the coquettishness of the New Romantics and a becoming bow to the seventies. Like the womenswear, the tailoring is excellent but never restrictive and is softened by rhythmic pleats, ruffles and capacious gauze and linen shirts. The colours adhere the relaxed and almost playful demeanour of the collection, from soft neautrals and intense indigo to colours of candy.

Paul Costelloe SS 2012 review London Fashion Week by Amelia Gregory

I especially love the way each outfit moves, simply and fluently and functionally! The pleats which seem to feature in many of the outfits are mesmerising to watch and sit beautifully on each piece. Paul Costelloe asserts his view on sandals and socks; a resounding yes to sandals with socks.

Paul Costelloe SS 2012 review London Fashion Week by Amelia Gregory
Paul Costello SS 2012 London Fashion Week Akeela Bhattay
Paul Costelloe set out to produce a collection that combines the signature Costelloe style together with elements of vintage Parisian chic – I do believe he has succeeded.

Paul Costello SS 2012 London Fashion Week Akeela Bhattay

If the consistent creativity and quality of Paul Costelloe’s collections are signs of things to come, I cannot wait to see his take on Autumn Winter 2012.


Play the video and watch the show.

Categories ,1940s, ,1960s, ,1970s, ,Akeela Bhattay, ,Amber Cassidy, ,Amelia Gregory, ,Amelia’s Magazine, ,Autumn Philips, ,Baby Doll dress, ,british fashion council, ,Brocade, ,Chase PR, ,Coral, ,designer, ,Edwardian, ,Feminine, ,Gilly Rochester, ,Hilary Alexander, ,Jackie Kennedy, ,Jimmy Choo, ,Joana Faria, ,LFW TV, ,Live Show, ,London Fashion Week, ,Mad Men, ,Matt Bramford, ,medieval, ,menswear, ,Mint, ,Mod, ,Parisian, ,Paul Costelloe, ,pink, ,S/S 2012, ,Shift Dress, ,Somerset House, ,spring, ,summer, ,Swing Coat, ,video, ,vintage, ,Watch Online, ,Womanswear

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2011: The FAD Junior Awards (again)


Illustration by Joana Faria

Nearing the end of fashion week, salve visit this site everyone begins to look forward to a little light relief and a break from running from venue to venue – maybe some music, a bit of dancing and a drink or two? The Tatty Devine party ticked all the boxes and added an abundance of their snazzy jewelery to oogle at.

Held in their Covent Garden store on Monmouth Street, there was a lively crowd from seven onwards mixing those who had turned up for the party, with the people spilling out from nearby pubs and bars. The Severed Limb were playing on and off with my favourite member playing something which when I asked, was told (in an its-matter-of-fact-way), that it was the wash board.

So…the dulcet tones of the washboard, the bass, and the accordion accompanied the Can Do dancers from Pineapple Studios. With their amazing ruffled, flared skirts and Tatty Devine jewellery the party was literally jumping by 8 o’clock. Western themed jewellery matched the music with fringed necklaces, brooches, horseshoe earrings and cowboy boot charms.


Illustration by Joana Faria

I have always enjoyed the quirkiness of Tatty Devine jewellery and their new pieces do not let the brand down. The moustache and pipe rings are great, as are the famous name tag necklaces and the pom pom earrings Amelia spotted when she popped down later. Rifling through my goodie bag, I was delighted to find a pipe ring included – definite style win.

We’ve always been fans of Tatty Devine and I was pleased to see that they are still going strong with their collaborations. At the moment, Rob Ryan jewellery (who collaborated with us for our second issue) is available from their online store as well as in Covent Garden. Other designers they are working with include Mrs Jones and Gilbert & George.




Illustration by Joana Faria

Nearing the end of fashion week, nurse everyone begins to look forward to a little light relief and a break from running from venue to venue – maybe some music, a bit of dancing and a drink or two? The Tatty Devine party ticked all the boxes and added an abundance of their snazzy jewellery to oogle at.

Held in their Covent Garden store on Monmouth Street, there was a lively crowd from seven onwards mixing those who had turned up for the party, with the people spilling out from nearby pubs and bars. The Severed Limb were playing on and off with my favourite member playing something which when I asked, was told (in an its-matter-of-fact-way), that it was the wash board.

So…the dulcet tones of the washboard, the bass, and the accordion accompanied the Can Do dancers from Pineapple Studios. With their amazing ruffled, flared skirts and Tatty Devine jewellery the party was literally jumping by 8 o’clock. Western themed jewellery matched the music with fringed necklaces, brooches, horseshoe earrings and cowboy boot charms.


Illustration by Joana Faria

I have always enjoyed the quirkiness of Tatty Devine jewellery and their new pieces do not let the brand down. The moustache and pipe rings are great, as are the famous name tag necklaces and the pom pom earrings Amelia spotted when she popped down later. Rifling through my goodie bag, I was delighted to find a pipe ring included – definite style win.

We’ve always been fans of Tatty Devine and I was pleased to see that they are still going strong with their collaborations. At the moment, Rob Ryan jewellery (who collaborated with us for our second issue) is available from their online store as well as in Covent Garden. Other designers they are working with include Mrs Jones and Gilbert & George.




Illustration by Joana Faria

Nearing the end of fashion week, this site everyone begins to look forward to a little light relief and a break from running from venue to venue – maybe some music, recipe a bit of dancing and a drink or two? The Tatty Devine party ticked all the boxes and added an abundance of their snazzy jewellery to oogle at.

Held in their Covent Garden store on Monmouth Street, there was a lively crowd from seven onwards mixing those who had turned up for the party, with the people spilling out from nearby pubs and bars. The Severed Limb were playing on and off with my favourite member playing something which when I asked, was told (in an its-matter-of-fact-way), that it was the wash board.

So…the dulcet tones of the washboard, the bass, and the accordion accompanied the Can Do dancers from Pineapple Studios. With their amazing ruffled, flared skirts and Tatty Devine jewellery, the party was literally jumping by 8 o’clock. Western themed jewellery matched the music with fringed necklaces, brooches, horseshoe earrings and cowboy boot charms.


Illustration by Joana Faria

I have always enjoyed the quirkiness of Tatty Devine jewellery and their new pieces do not let the brand down. The moustache and pipe rings are great, as are the famous name tag necklaces and the pom pom earrings Amelia spotted when she popped down later. Rifling through my goodie bag, I was delighted to find a pipe ring included – definite style win.

We’ve always been fans of Tatty Devine and I was pleased to see that they are still going strong with their collaborations. At the moment, Rob Ryan jewellery (who collaborated with us for our second issue) is available from their online store as well as in Covent Garden. Other designers they are working with include Mrs Jones and Gilbert & George.




Illustration by Andrea Peterson

As part of Designers Remix, shop designer Charlotte Eskildsen, discount who is creative director of the enterprise published their signature collection last week. After winning the prestigious Danish Design Guldknappen award she has become a force to be reckoned with in international fashion since starting the line in 2002. Her S/S 2011 collection ‘Liquid Sky’ is inspired by cloud formations.

Draped fabrics. Origami folds. A flash orange dress. Scraped back hair tied in tight knots. The show, diagnosis held in the Portico rooms was one of my favourites of the week. Like many others, it stuck strongly to a muted colour range, beginning with pieces in greys, creams and blacks. Small details like the delicate lace insets and just-seen underskirts pulled the collection together extremely well.

Charlotte’s skill lies in how well she collects the fabric together and makes it hang. Ruffles on the shoulders of her cream dresses are restrained and kept from looking fussy, the great bright orange dress (which I desperately want) is understated in all other ways bar the colour and the waterfall collars on the jackets carried the theme of softness through even on heavier fabrics.


Illustration by Andrea Peterson

The clothes ranged from smart black dresses, to sand toned wafty jackets and ruffled party frocks in various shades of cream. This is a collection that is just good. I can’t put my finger on an exact feature or piece that puts it into a higher category for me and I think that’s why I like it.

More than just a wearable summer collection, it mars together a floaty casual look with added details of specialness without being over the top. If I wanted to sound very fashiony I would call it perfect ‘understated chic’, but hopefully I’ve described it better than that!


Illustration by Katie Harnett

This post is being written nine days after Kinder Aggugini’s Africa inspired show. There was a lot of this lazy naming of inspiration being banded around the press releases this season – it sappears the majority of designers forget that Africa is not simply Africa but a complex continent subdivided via colonial rule and consisting of multiple languages and cultures. But for the purposes of Fashion Africa it has been relegated to Tiger skins and “super fantastic” Safari outfits. For a supposidly fashion forward industry; fashion is (un)surprisingly chained to particular ideas of wealth and escapism.

Illustration by Gemma Randall

It was not ‘Africa’ which inspired Kinder but a European idea of Africa, information pills an idea which often fills the pages of Vogue’s distasteful summer fashion shoots of caucasian models in ‘Colonial Explorer’ inspired outfits striding the Safari. In a twist for a Spring Summer collection inspired by Africa, price the catwalk featured Linen Jackets with trousers to match alongside simple shift dresses. The most exciting thing that appeared on the catwalk were the cardboard hats made by the fantastic Stephen Jones.

Fashion survives and feeds on escapist desires, Dior encapsulated a sense of jubilance with his “New Look” after years of rationing. Whether you want to or not we buy into the idea that what we wear is a projection of our opinions. As a result an entire industry (the High Street,the Ateliers and the Fashion Press) has developed to transform ideas created on the catwalk into the trends currently seen dominating shop window displays. Suddenly have an urge to feel like a pre-Second World War pilot? Then why not buy the Burberry inspired aviator jacket?

Since Kinder’s show, London has finished, Milan began and ended and Paris is in the process of starting. The month of Spring Summer Fashion is drawing to a close. Trend spotters and bloggers waiting eagle eyed for a clue to what we will all be wearing next season, will have already produced trend forecasted. The main problem, lies not with the designers such has Kinder Aggugini who are transcribing their inspiration into garments, but with the increasing dislocation between clothes and the wearer. Fast Fashion means you can be one look tomorrow and another look tomorrow, the result at the moment is the constant plundering of the 70′s aesthetic. Perhaps, in these straightened times, the loss of ‘simpler’ times are being mourned?

Illustration by Katie Harnett

This post is being written nine days after Kinder Aggugini’s Africa inspired show. There was a lot of this lazy naming of inspiration being bandied around the press releases this season – it appears the majority of designers forget that Africa is not simply Africa but a complex continent subdivided via colonial rule and consisting of multiple languages and cultures. But for the purposes of Fashion Africa it has been relegated to Tiger skins and “super fantastic” Safari outfits. For a supposedly fashion forward industry; fashion is (un)surprisingly chained to particular ideas of wealth and escapism.

Illustration by Gemma Randall

It was not ‘Africa’ which inspired Kinder but a European idea of Africa, physician an idea which often fills the pages of Vogue’s distasteful summer fashion shoots of caucasian models in ‘Colonial Explorer’ inspired outfits striding the Safari. In a twist for a Spring Summer collection inspired by Africa, more about the catwalk featured Linen Jackets with trousers to match alongside simple shift dresses. The most exciting thing that appeared on the catwalk were the cardboard hats made by the fantastic Stephen Jones.

Fashion survives and feeds on escapist desires, Dior encapsulated a sense of jubilance with his “New Look” after years of rationing. Whether you want to or not we buy into the idea that what we wear is a projection of our opinions. As a result an entire industry (the High Street,the Ateliers and the Fashion Press) has developed to transform ideas created on the catwalk into the trends currently seen dominating shop window displays. Suddenly have an urge to feel like a pre-Second World War pilot? Then why not buy the Burberry inspired aviator jacket?

Since Kinder’s show, London has finished, Milan began and ended and Paris is in the process of starting. The month of Spring Summer Fashion is drawing to a close. Trend spotters and bloggers waiting eagle eyed for a clue to what we will all be wearing next season, will have already produced trend forecasted. The main problem, lies not with the designers such as Kinder Aggugini who are transcribing their inspiration into garments, but with the increasing dislocation between clothes and the wearer. Fast Fashion means you can be one look tomorrow and another look tomorrow, the result at the moment is the constant plundering of the 70′s aesthetic. Perhaps, in these straightened times, the loss of ‘simpler’ times are being mourned?

Illustration by Katie Harnett

This post is being written nine days after Kinder Aggugini’s ‘Africa’ inspired show. This season there was a lot of this lazy naming of inspiration being bandied around the press releases – it appears designers forget Africa is not simply ‘Africa’ but a complex continent subdivided via colonial rule and consisting of multiple languages and cultures. But for the purposes of Fashion Africa it has been relegated to Tiger skins and “super fantastic” Safari outfits. For a supposedly fashion forward industry; fashion is (un)surprisingly chained to particular ideas of wealth and escapism.

Illustration by Gemma Randall

It was not ‘Africa’ which inspired Kinder but a European idea of Africa, prescription an idea which often fills the pages of Vogue’s distasteful summer fashion shoots of caucasian models in ‘Colonial Explorer’ inspired outfits striding the Safari. In a twist for a Spring Summer collection inspired by Africa, try the catwalk featured Linen Jackets with trousers to match alongside simple shift dresses. The most exciting thing that appeared on the catwalk were the cardboard hats made by the fantastic Stephen Jones.

Fashion survives and feeds on escapist desires, pills Dior encapsulated a sense of jubilance with his “New Look” after years of rationing. Whether you want to or not we buy into the idea that what we wear is a projection of our opinions. As a result an entire industry (the High Street,the Ateliers and the Fashion Press) has developed to transform ideas created on the catwalk into the trends currently seen dominating shop window displays. Suddenly have an urge to feel like a pre-Second World War pilot? Then why not buy the Burberry inspired aviator jacket?

Since Kinder’s show, London has finished, Milan began and ended and Paris is in the process of starting. The month of Spring Summer Fashion is drawing to a close. Trend spotters and bloggers waiting eagle eyed for a clue to what we will all be wearing next season, will have already produced trend forecasted. The main problem, lies not with the designers such as Kinder Aggugini who are transcribing their inspiration into garments, but with the increasing dislocation between clothes and the wearer. Fast Fashion means you can be one look tomorrow and another look tomorrow, the result at the moment is the constant plundering of the 70′s aesthetic. Perhaps, in these straightened times, the loss of ‘simpler’ times are being mourned?


Illustration by Joana Faria

On Tuesday night Amelia, approved myself and Zandra Rhodes met at the Freemason’s Hall to attend the FAD Junior Fashion Awards. Well, advice Zandra was there, adiposity across the catwalk, she didn’t technically ARRIVE with us. We’d been invited by email: an email that was gushing in gratitude for the work we had done to support this charity. I am ashamed to admit that I didn’t have a clue what this lovely lady was talking about – there’s so much good stuff on here that I occasionally miss the odd article. But Fran from FAD was happy, and I was to attend!

The usual beginning ensued – I quiverred in the background having forgotten my ticket while Amelia dragged me by the arm, kicking and screaming, onto the front row. I have to say that I am finally starting to get used to all this and by the A/W 2012 shows I’ll be poised at the front of the queues, shoulders back, sunglasses on, marching to the front.

The Freemason’s was absolutely boiling as always (please sort some air conditioning out for next year, VFS!). In fact, somebody should have supplied fans in goodie bags. Imagine! You could show bin bags covered in sh*t and people would say nice things if you kept them cool.

Fashion Awareness Direct (FAD) are a charity who work with young people to give them the confidence to get into fashion. Where do I sign up?! One of last year’s students, Prash Muraleetharan, delivered the most inspirational speech that I was almost in tears, and the show hadn’t even started. Amelia and I scrambled to write down what he had said. All this before we’d seen a single badly made dressed or batiked skirt (as I imagined).


Illustration by Aniela Murphy

Amelia and I continually remarked throughout the show about how young these budding designers were. I can honestly say that there was very little difference between this show and those on the BFC catwalk (you know, the on-schedule one that is supposedly the creme-de-la-creme of current British fashion).

You can read Amelia’s full report here. I couldn’t make head nor tail of who was who – the looks appeared, the names changed so quickly, and the running order was in the wrong order. AND, to top it off, it was impossible to take pictures because a certain somebody kept telling me off for getting in the way. Tehe.

This year’s theme had been inspired by the Medieval and Renaissance Galleries at the V&A, which was evident on the catwalk, but not in a typically student way by any means. When the theme was announced, before the show, I thought ‘Oh hear we go – cue silly headgear and bucket top boots’. No such thing – the inspiration had been handled with such sophistication that it acted as a discrete point of reference rather than a fancy dress theme.

So to the winners. The winning collection was David Short’s medieval emerald number, crowning him the first boy ever to scoop the coveted prize.


Illustration by Aniela Murphy

My favourite was Andre Augusto’s body-con number with exaggerated sleeves and strap detail – an Alexander McQueen in the making.

Sarah Kilkenny’s simple a-line dress with rope detail scooped the Award for Research.

Karmen-Marie Parker burst into tears when Zandra Rhodes (my Zandra) presented her with the award for Commercial Innovation – her sports-luxe denim creation had real style.

A totally inspirational show, which reduced me to tears and left me reeling. In amongst all the ridiculous ludicrousness of fashion week, this was the perfect antidote.

Oh do pop over to Amelia’s review because she’s far more diligent than I am and has listed all the other fabulous youngsters and their creations – and has more gratuitous shots of MY Zandra for your delectation. Oh and here’s a video, in which you can probably see me blubbing somewhere on the left…

Photography by Amelia Gregory and Matt Bramford

Categories ,Aniela Murphy, ,FAD Junior Awards, ,Fashion Awareness Direct, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Joana Faria, ,Karmen-Marie Parker, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,M&S, ,Prash Muraleetharan, ,Sarah Kilkenny, ,University of East London, ,va, ,Vauxhall Fashion Scout, ,Zandra Rhodes

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2011: The FAD Junior Awards (again)


Illustration by Joana Faria

On Tuesday night Amelia, myself and Zandra Rhodes met at the Freemason’s Hall to attend the FAD Junior Fashion Awards. Well, Zandra was there, across the catwalk, she didn’t technically ARRIVE with us. We’d been invited by email: an email that was gushing in gratitude for the work we had done to support this charity. I am ashamed to admit that I didn’t have a clue what this lovely lady was talking about – there’s so much good stuff on here that I occasionally miss the odd article. But Fran from FAD was happy, and I was to attend!

The usual beginning ensued – I quiverred in the background having forgotten my ticket while Amelia dragged me by the arm, kicking and screaming, onto the front row. I have to say that I am finally starting to get used to all this and by the A/W 2012 shows I’ll be poised at the front of the queues, shoulders back, sunglasses on, marching to the front.

The Freemason’s was absolutely boiling as always (please sort some air conditioning out for next year, VFS!). In fact, somebody should have supplied fans in goodie bags. Imagine! You could show bin bags covered in sh*t and people would say nice things if you kept them cool.

Fashion Awareness Direct (FAD) are a charity who work with young people to give them the confidence to get into fashion. Where do I sign up?! One of last year’s students, Prash Muraleetharan, delivered the most inspirational speech that I was almost in tears, and the show hadn’t even started. Amelia and I scrambled to write down what he had said. All this before we’d seen a single badly made dressed or batiked skirt (as I imagined).


Illustration by Aniela Murphy

Amelia and I continually remarked throughout the show about how young these budding designers were. I can honestly say that there was very little difference between this show and those on the BFC catwalk (you know, the on-schedule one that is supposedly the creme-de-la-creme of current British fashion).

You can read Amelia’s full report here. I couldn’t make head nor tail of who was who – the looks appeared, the names changed so quickly, and the running order was in the wrong order. AND, to top it off, it was impossible to take pictures because a certain somebody kept telling me off for getting in the way. Tehe.

This year’s theme had been inspired by the Medieval and Renaissance Galleries at the V&A, which was evident on the catwalk, but not in a typically student way by any means. When the theme was announced, before the show, I thought ‘Oh hear we go – cue silly headgear and bucket top boots’. No such thing – the inspiration had been handled with such sophistication that it acted as a discrete point of reference rather than a fancy dress theme.

So to the winners. The winning collection was David Short’s medieval emerald number, crowning him the first boy ever to scoop the coveted prize.


Illustration by Aniela Murphy

My favourite was Andre Augusto’s body-con number with exaggerated sleeves and strap detail – an Alexander McQueen in the making.

Sarah Kilkenny’s simple a-line dress with rope detail scooped the Award for Research.

Karmen-Marie Parker burst into tears when Zandra Rhodes (my Zandra) presented her with the award for Commercial Innovation – her sports-luxe denim creation had real style.

A totally inspirational show, which reduced me to tears and left me reeling. In amongst all the ridiculous ludicrousness of fashion week, this was the perfect antidote.

Oh do pop over to Amelia’s review because she’s far more diligent than I am and has listed all the other fabulous youngsters and their creations – and has more gratuitous shots of MY Zandra for your delectation. Oh and here’s a video, in which you can probably see me blubbing somewhere on the left…

Photography by Amelia Gregory and Matt Bramford

Categories ,Aniela Murphy, ,FAD Junior Awards, ,Fashion Awareness Direct, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Joana Faria, ,Karmen-Marie Parker, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,M&S, ,Prash Muraleetharan, ,Sarah Kilkenny, ,University of East London, ,va, ,Vauxhall Fashion Scout, ,Zandra Rhodes

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Behind the Scenes: Elisa Palomino

Elisa Palomino - SS 12 LFW by Amber Cassidy

Elisa Palomino S/S 2012 by Amber Cassidy

If you’ve read my Elisa Palomino S/S 2012 preview interview with the designer, viagra sale you’ll know I’m already in love with her designs. The designer had invited me to pop backstage before the show to view her spring/summer collection up close and as I’d not experienced before, prostate the behind the scenes affairs of a fashion show, my curiosity was most definitely piqued!

Elisa Palomino SS12 LFW Backstage by Akeela Bhattay

Elisa Palomino SS12 LFW Backstage by Akeela Bhattay

Zooming past the infinite queue at Vauxhall Fashion Scout, I am escorted backstage by the lovely people of Blow PR, to the organised chaos of the catwalk performance in construction. I’m told Elisa is preoccupied right now, but if I return after the show, I may speak to her then. In the meantime, I decide to hover for a while, take in the scene and take some pictures.

Elisa Palomino SS12 LFW Backstage by Akeela Bhattay

Elisa Palomino SS 12 LFW by Joana Faria

Elisa Palomino S/S 2012 by Joana Faria

Elisa Palomino SS12 LFW Backstage by Akeela Bhattay

Elisa Palomino SS12 LFW Backstage by Akeela Bhattay

Elisa Palomino SS12 LFW Backstage by Akeela Bhattay

Elisa Palomino SS12 LFW Backstage by Akeela Bhattay

With about twenty odd statuesque and fat free women towering over me, I’m feeling a little like a munchkin, but they look as nervous as I’m feeling, so I smile in support and swoon over their exaggerated 1920s style make-up and exquisite head-pieces. One minute they’re having their make-up applied and the next they’ve changed into one of Elisa’s opulent garments; everything is moving dizzyingly fast and the anticipation is transparent.

Elisa Palomino SS12 LFW Backstage by Akeela Bhattay

Elisa Palomino SS12 LFW Backstage by Akeela Bhattay

I spy Elisa, attired in her signature pink and adorning a pretty floral head-piece – she flits from one model to another, making sure all is as it should be. I realise I may be getting in the way as the phrase “excuse me” is directed at me for the umpteenth time and so I withdraw from the orderly pandemonium and retreat to the beautiful amphitheatre to await the performance.

Elisa Palomino SS12 LFW by Hannah Hope

Elisa Palomino S/S 2012 by Hannah Hope

Read my review of the Elisa Palomino S/S 2012 catwalk show.

All photography by Akeela Bhattay

Categories ,1920s, ,1930s, ,A Fairy Dance, ,Akeela Bhattay, ,Amelia Gregory, ,Angel Amor, ,Appliqué, ,Article, ,backstage, ,behind the scenes, ,bird cage, ,BLOW online, ,Blow PR, ,Bobbin, ,catwalk show, ,Christian Dior, ,Diane Von Furstenberg, ,Elisa Palomino, ,embroidery, ,Emma Block, ,Flapper, ,gabby young, ,Gabby Young and Other Animals, ,Gilly Rochester, ,hair pieces, ,Hannah Hope, ,head dress, ,Hummingbirds, ,interview, ,Japanese art, ,Joana Faria, ,John Galliano, ,Lan Nguyen, ,Lillies, ,London Fashion Week, ,Madrid, ,Maria Papadimitriou, ,Pre-Raphaelites, ,qa, ,queues, ,review, ,Roaring Twenties, ,Roberto Cavalli, ,S/S 2012, ,Spiga 2, ,The Body Shop, ,Tony & Guy, ,Vauxhall Fashion Scout, ,Victorian Fairy Painting Movement, ,vintage, ,Yamato-e

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2011 Catwalk Review: Temperley London

Illustration by Gilly Rochester

I have always been a huge fan of Alice Temperley; in fact my whole family has, web with both my 19 year old sister and my mother owning pieces by Temperley London. This is testament to the timeless nature of the designs- its a label that seems above trends and fads, link always unmistakeably Temperley, unhealthy with monochrome patterns, flowing silhouettes and oodles of embellishment. Inspired by Venetian fans, this collection had a decidedly Spanish feel, with flared flamenco style skirts and splashes of red.The focus went back to the brand’s roots: eveningwear- with delicate tulle dresses covered with either embroidery or encrusted with crystals.

Illustration by Joana Faria

Illustration by Gemma Milly

The opulence and extravagance reminded me of Marchesa’s latest collection, and dare I say it, even some of the last McQueen pieces. Other dresses were covered in stars, harking back to Alice’s love of the circus evident in earlier collections. A collared dress with 50s style skirts brought a vintage feel to the collection, whilst stunning shoes from Charlotte Olympia kept the whole thing contemporary.

Illustration by Donya Todd

The obligatory chunky knit and even a feminine take on the tux with a ruffled shirt meant that there was actually a huge range within a collection that still managed to maintain one coherent aesthetic. Described as a ‘coming of age’ collection for Temperley, it really does prove Alice to be at the top of her game. There are no gimmicks here- just luxury, feminine, red-carpet worthy looks that your grandchildren will be whipping out as ‘vintage’ in years to come.

Photos by Katie Antoniou

Illustration by Joana Faria

Illustration by Gemma Milly

Illustration by Gilly Rochester

Categories ,Alice Temperley, ,British Museum, ,Donya Todd, ,Gemma Milly, ,Gilly Rochester, ,Joana Faria, ,LFW A/W 2011, ,temperley london

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2011 Menswear Day Catwalk Review: D.GNAK by KANG.D

Illustration by Romain Lambert-Louis

It’s good thing it’s starting to feel like spring outside, rx as listening to Lulu and the Lampshades in the dead of winter strikes me as being something akin to torture. This is music that makes me want to ride my bicycle along gravel roads, healing slurping down iced lollies and squinting as the sunshine pokes through my eyelashes.

There is a lot of sweetness to Lulu and the Lampshades – starting with the playfulness of the name itself, link down to the music which is a bucketful of sunshine. At least that was my first impression, before I listened to the new ‘Cold Water’ EP. The only thing I’d heard of the London-based foursome before was ‘Feet to the sky’, a cheery little number with an even cheerier video, but for a release with just four tracks, ‘Cold Water’ does an impressive job of delivering diversity.

Illustration by Matilde Sazio

My favourite thing about Lulu and the Lampshades is probably main singer Luisa Gerstein’s voice – a rich, chocolatey sound which makes you think of bigger songs and swoonier music productions. But the stripped back style of the Lulu songs do an excellent job of accompanying Luisa. The overall effect is something akin to listening to your favourite act playing at a musical, just a few feet away and it feels like they‘re playing just for you.

It certainly sounds like the Lulus having fun though, skipping along (or at least that’s what it sounds like) on the title track ’Cold Water’. Although the lyrics tell a more complex story: ’I hate to be wrapped in cotton although I think it’s better for me / Yes I see there’s trouble but it’s proven to me I’m better off this way’ … I’m not sure if the music and lyrics are mismatched, or if Luisa is simply the happiest when causing a bit of trouble?

Illustration by Mhairi-stella McEwan

Illustration by Sarah Matthews

The video to ‘Cups’, or ‘You’re gonna miss me’, has had over half a million YouTube hits, as Luisa and Heloise banging those plastic beakers into the kitchen table really needs to be seen. ‘Cups’ started out as a routine Louisa learnt at percussion class, combined with new verses and a chorus from a traditional folk song. The result is a lovely little ’all together now’ call-and-response song, but it’s that cup action that has us all going Whoa Lulu! Have a look:

‘I’ll keep my demons underground if it keeps you smiling’, Luisa sings as ‘Demons’ start. Although the flute and glockenspiel keeps things light, the darker undertones are definitely there now, both in terms of lyrics and tone. ‘Cause you’ve punctured me / I’ve ruptured at the seams and though its strange for me / I’ll do my best to keep the rest from falling out’ … But there is something fairytale-like about it too, like the stories about witches and evil creatures that we like because it gives us a chill down our backs.

‘Moccasin Mile’ mixes vocal harmonies, ukulele and some nifty drumstick action as the tempos change. ‘If you can’t be good then please be careful,’ Luisa sings … But then the flute comes in again at the chorus, as Lulu regulars Luisa, Heloise, Jemma and Dan were joined by flutist Isobel to add some extra ‘dance around the maypole’ feeling. And that’s it – four tracks are done and Lulu and the Lampshades have certainly managed to whet our appetites for a full-length album. As well as a dip in a lake that’s still a little too cold, before skipping on home with sunburnt cheeks.

Illustration by Matilde Sazio

Illustration by Sarah Matthews

‘Cold Water’ by Lulu and the Lampshades is out now on Moshi Moshi. Have a look at the website for the current gig schedule, or see the YouTube channel for more music videos.

Illustration by Oliver John Quinn

After hanging out with contributor Nick for lunch during Menswear Day, information pills I hot-footed it up to Vauxhall Fashion Scout to check out D.GNAK‘s latest offerings. It was the only menswear show I’d see at the Freemasons’ Hall and it was fairly quiet. I’d enjoyed his outing last season and was looking forward to seeing how his quirky Japanese aesthetic would translate for A/W.


Contributor Georgia with Paul Weller

I bumped into contributor Georgia Takacs there and we headed into the venue, more about sitting on opposite sides so not to get the same pictures. As we sat down, she started FREAKING OUT. ‘Is that Paul Weller? IS THAT PAUL WELLER?!’ she began yelling. It turns out it was, and he was nestled on the front row with his missus and two children. Georgia immediately went over to chat to him and I took a few pictures of them together, grinned nervously at him and thought to myself that his haircut has a lot to answer for.


Illustration by Joana Faria

On with the show. In a bold move from last season’s classic tailoring with contemporary twists, Kang D (the designer behind D.GNAK) had injected strong colours, interesting knits and enormous rucksacks.


All photography by Matt Bramford

The show opened with utilitarian tailoring that you might expect George Orwell’s Winston Smith to wear dark grey baggy trousers with an apron-like upper half was teamed with a luxurious floor-length cable knit cardigan. Next, a rich pea-coat with over-sized lapels and plaid-detail shoulders.

D.GNAK as a label is quickly establishing itself as an expert in materials and textures. Wools, corduroy, tweed and cotton were all on display, spiced up using colours like mustard and burgundy.


Illustration by Rob Wallace

There’s also an eye for the unfinished – that’ll be the Japanese ma influence then – with fraid hems that look a bit like a Savile Row tailor has had the day off – but teamed with polished blazers and expensive-looking coats, this works really well.

Every man is pretty much catered for here. There’s sartorial tailoring in the form of suits and Sherlock Holmes-esque coats for the sharpest dresser; wool blazers with contrasting buttons and vibrant trousers work well for casuals; corduroy onesies will have the more fashion-forward males racing to the shops.

Ace accessories were on offer – oversized patent leather rucksacks with suede details were worn on both shoulders, buckle straps revealed helpful features like an umbrella carrier. I like.

This was a much fresher collection than last time – the same level of craftsmanship was on offer, but it’s interesting to see D-GNAK explore different pieces, experiment with colours and toy with the traditions of sartorial menswear.

See more of Joana Faria’s illustrations in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration!

Categories ,A/W 2011, ,Catwalk review, ,D.GNAK, ,Dong Jun Kang, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,George Orwell, ,Joana Faria, ,KANG.D, ,London Fashion Week, ,ma, ,Menswear Day, ,Nineteen Eighty Four, ,Oliver John Quinn, ,Paul Weller, ,Rob Wallace, ,Savile Row, ,Sherlock Holmes, ,tailoring, ,Unfinished, ,Utilitarian, ,Vauxhall Fashion Scout, ,Winston Smith

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2011 Menswear Day Presentation Review: Mr Start

Cakes for Japan

Illustration by June Chanpoomidole

To those of you that have been to any of the Start boutiques in Shoreditch you’ll know they represent a relaxed luxury that more than compliments the clothes. This is most true for the mens formalwear boutique. I love it and could quiet happily spend hours in there. So when I saw that the Mr Start presentation was being held in One Aldwych I was very excited. Having graced the lobby bar with my presence on at least  one occasion to sip their very tasty cocktails, price I couldn’t think of a more suitable venue. Sadly we were shuffled downstairs to a tiny and ill-lit room. Pleased we’d arrived early to avoid the mounting queues, for sale myself and Matt surveyed the clothes.  


Illustration by Joana Faria

Thankfully the collection more than made up for the choice of venue, as did the dynamicism of Mr Start himself, and the lovely Brix Smith Start. Seeing people passionate about what they do never fails to lift my spirits. Despite living my life in jeans, I have a love of all things formal. I long for the day that dress down Fridays are a thing of the past; I’m just too lazy to do it myself. Very hypocritical, you might say. Suits, jackets and ties are almost always appropriate attire, however, they often take more consideration and thought than I am capable of bleary eyed at 7am on workday morning.  


All photography by Matt Bramford

This collection would inspire me to rise just that little bit earlier and make just a bit more effort. Mixing heritage fabrics such as Harris Tweeds with a modern cut, the collection worked really well. The colours chosen also lifted this collection from being too stayed; crushed grape and turquoise green statement jackets provided a subtle lift to everything. But we weren’t just treated to suits, elegantly tailored shirts in a variety of collar shapes were also a sight to behold. A clean colour palette of white, black and grey, the shirts complimented the suiting without overpowering it; my favourite being a smaller but starkly cutaway collar. I’d say understated luxury for those in the know was a common theme of the whole collection but the deep velvet suit and dinner jackets were far from understated.  


Illustration by Maria Papadimitriou

Another great piece was the double breasted cropped peacoat. We’ve seen these on every boy band and All Saints clone in the past few seasons, but there was still something fresh about this piece. Mr Start’s accessories were equally strong with many of the fashion pack gushing over the suede brogues and loafers. They have a definite place on my wishlist, but I fear no amount of scotchguarding will protect them from my clumsy ways.  

In store this collection will shine even brighter than it did during the presentation, and leaving the store dressed head to toe in Mr Start will be a feat of inordinate self control. It’s just a shame the lighting and crowding let things down a little. Here’s looking forward to next seasons presentation, and a quick/expensive trip to Shoreditch in the meantime.  

See more from June Chanpoomidole and Joana Faria in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration!

Categories ,A/W 2011, ,Brix Smith Start, ,Joana Faria, ,June Chanpoomidole, ,london, ,London Fashion Week, ,Maria Papadimitriou, ,menswear, ,Menswear Day, ,Mr Start, ,One Aldwych, ,Presentation, ,review, ,shoreditch, ,Start, ,Suits, ,tailoring

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2011 Menswear Day Presentation Review: Mr Start


Illustration by June Chanpoomidole

To those of you that have been to any of the Start boutiques in Shoreditch you’ll know they represent a relaxed luxury that more than compliments the clothes. This is most true for the mens formalwear boutique. I love it and could quiet happily spend hours in there. So when I saw that the Mr Start presentation was being held in One Aldwych I was very excited. Having graced the lobby bar with my presence on at least  one occasion to sip their very tasty cocktails, I couldn’t think of a more suitable venue. Sadly we were shuffled downstairs to a tiny and ill-lit room. Pleased we’d arrived early to avoid the mounting queues, myself and Matt surveyed the clothes.  


Illustration by Joana Faria

Thankfully the collection more than made up for the choice of venue, as did the dynamicism of Mr Start himself, and the lovely Brix Smith Start. Seeing people passionate about what they do never fails to lift my spirits. Despite living my life in jeans, I have a love of all things formal. I long for the day that dress down Fridays are a thing of the past; I’m just too lazy to do it myself. Very hypocritical, you might say. Suits, jackets and ties are almost always appropriate attire, however, they often take more consideration and thought than I am capable of bleary eyed at 7am on workday morning.  


All photography by Matt Bramford

This collection would inspire me to rise just that little bit earlier and make just a bit more effort. Mixing heritage fabrics such as Harris Tweeds with a modern cut, the collection worked really well. The colours chosen also lifted this collection from being too stayed; crushed grape and turquoise green statement jackets provided a subtle lift to everything. But we weren’t just treated to suits, elegantly tailored shirts in a variety of collar shapes were also a sight to behold. A clean colour palette of white, black and grey, the shirts complimented the suiting without overpowering it; my favourite being a smaller but starkly cutaway collar. I’d say understated luxury for those in the know was a common theme of the whole collection but the deep velvet suit and dinner jackets were far from understated.  


Illustration by Maria Papadimitriou

Another great piece was the double breasted cropped peacoat. We’ve seen these on every boy band and All Saints clone in the past few seasons, but there was still something fresh about this piece. Mr Start’s accessories were equally strong with many of the fashion pack gushing over the suede brogues and loafers. They have a definite place on my wishlist, but I fear no amount of scotchguarding will protect them from my clumsy ways.  

In store this collection will shine even brighter than it did during the presentation, and leaving the store dressed head to toe in Mr Start will be a feat of inordinate self control. It’s just a shame the lighting and crowding let things down a little. Here’s looking forward to next seasons presentation, and a quick/expensive trip to Shoreditch in the meantime.  

See more from June Chanpoomidole and Joana Faria in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration!

Categories ,A/W 2011, ,Brix Smith Start, ,Joana Faria, ,June Chanpoomidole, ,london, ,London Fashion Week, ,Maria Papadimitriou, ,menswear, ,Menswear Day, ,Mr Start, ,One Aldwych, ,Presentation, ,review, ,shoreditch, ,Start, ,Suits, ,tailoring

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