Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2011 On Schedule Womenswear Preview, Part Two: The Pioneers


Shambala 2010

The costumes have been returned to their dressing up boxes; the mud has dried out and been brushed from the boots; newly-learned dance workshop moves have become vague; reality has crept back into view… The Shambala Festival has packed itself away for another year – and, page my oh my, site what an incredible time it was.

Shambala is a 3-day voyage of discovery. Yes, stomach there’s a programme – and an impressive one at that – featuring acts and activities as diverse as chant-arousing Dizraeli & The Small Gods on the main Shambala stage, the jaw-dropping Cirque de Freq in the Kamikaze tent, min-beast safaris in the Permaculture garden and the Cock Drawing Club in the Random Workshop Tent. But the most magical Shambala experience is a haphazard one, in which the clocks stop and the concept of time is snubbed as punters follow their ears, noses and tapping toes into the most thrilling and unexpected of entertainments.

The Compass House of Lunacy
Noémie Ducimetière creeps out The Compass House of Lunacy

Wandering Word
Poet Rosie Carrick in the Wandering Word yurt

Bewitching bewilderment was the lifeblood of the Compass House of Lunacy, in which the ghosts of French songstresses (Noémie Ducimetière) and high-kicking, be-corseted madams ruled the stage. Just around the corner, the Wandering Word yurt beckoned dazed punters into its cosy folds to have their ears tickled by pirate poets and their imaginations led through eerie worlds summoned by storytelling eccentrics.

Shambala parade

Shambala parade_Picture Frames

Shambala Parade_Gorilla

After Friday’s inaugural explorations and familiarisations, on Saturday Shambala donned its gladrags and revelled in magnificent peculiarities and with newfound friends. For Saturday was the festival’s official fancy dress day (not that that prevented costumes from coming out to play all weekend…), and was topped by the spectacular Shambala parade.

Permaculture Garden

Shambala crazy golf

Didgeridoo
Shambala blows: Getting down with the didgeridoo

Peeping over the debauched brow of Saturday night, Shambala’s Sunday air was thick with drowsiness as the festival rubbed the night before from its eyes, picking up lost wellies, rogue headdress feathers and the first few threads of the real world. It was on Sunday that the Healing Area really came into its own, offering to knead the weariness from revellers’ muscles, revive their vocal chords in the Music & Voice workshops and fix them a jolly good old cup of chai to nestle between their crossed legs as they flanked the crackling camp fire.

Shambala dragon

Site and house

So, there’s a whole year until Shambala returns. Will it be the same? Of course not, and that’s exactly why we’ll love it. Expect the unexpected – and in the meantime keep the Shambala spirit of discovery alive by forgetting your watch every once in a while…


Shambala 2010

The costumes have been returned to their dressing up boxes; the mud has dried out and been brushed from the boots; newly-learned dance workshop moves have become vague; reality has crept back into view… The Shambala Festival has packed itself away for another year – and, medical my oh my, what an incredible time it was.

Shambala is a 3-day voyage of discovery. Yes, there’s a programme – and an impressive one at that – featuring acts and activities as diverse as chant-arousing Dizraeli & The Small Gods on the main Shambala stage, the jaw-dropping Cirque de Freq in the Kamikaze tent, min-beast safaris in the Permaculture garden and the Cock Drawing Club in the Random Workshop Tent. But the most magical Shambala experience is a haphazard one, in which the clocks stop and the concept of time is snubbed as punters follow their ears, noses and tapping toes into the most thrilling and unexpected of entertainments.

The Compass House of Lunacy
Noémie Ducimetière creeps out The Compass House of Lunacy

Wandering Word
Poet Rosie Carrick in the Wandering Word yurt

Bewitching bewilderment was the lifeblood of the Compass House of Lunacy, in which the ghosts of French songstresses (Noémie Ducimetière) and high-kicking, be-corseted madams ruled the stage. Just around the corner, the Wandering Word yurt beckoned dazed punters into its cosy folds to have their ears tickled by pirate poets and their imaginations led through eerie worlds summoned by storytelling eccentrics.

Shambala parade

Shambala parade_Picture Frames

Shambala Parade_Gorilla

After Friday’s inaugural explorations and familiarisations, on Saturday Shambala donned its gladrags and revelled in magnificent peculiarities and with newfound friends. For Saturday was the festival’s official fancy dress day (not that that prevented costumes from coming out to play all weekend…), and was topped by the spectacular Shambala parade.

Permaculture Garden

Shambala crazy golf

Didgeridoo
Shambala blows: Getting down with the didgeridoo

Peeping over the debauched brow of Saturday night, Shambala’s Sunday air was thick with drowsiness as the festival rubbed the night before from its eyes, picking up lost wellies, rogue headdress feathers and the first few threads of the real world. It was on Sunday that the Healing Area really came into its own, offering to knead the weariness from revellers’ muscles, revive their vocal chords in the Music & Voice workshops and fix them a jolly good old cup of chai to nestle between their crossed legs as they flanked the crackling camp fire.

Shambala dragon

Site and house

So, there’s a whole year until Shambala returns. Will it be the same? Of course not, and that’s exactly why we’ll love it. Expect the unexpected – and in the meantime keep the Shambala spirit of discovery alive by forgetting your watch every once in a while…


London Fashion Week, page photographed by Matt Bramford

As always at London Fashion Week there are the new and innovative designers we are told to watch……but let’s not forget the stalwarts that need no such introduction. They’ve shown at London Fashion Week for seasons (more than some would like to say) but always know how to please the audience, visit this so here’s our pick of the legends…

Betty Jackson

Betty Jackson A/W 2010, website illustrated by Gemma Randall

After seeing the show last year at LFW its clear that Betty Jackson, having nearly 30 years experience in the business, knows how to design for the everyday woman. Showcasing an array of tarnished gold pieces and full dirndl skirts; the materials seem to juxtapose each other as Jackson mixed heavy wool coats and corduroy accessories with the aforementioned “liquid tarnished gold” skirts and blouses. Let’s hope that her SS collection continues to play on the womanly trends that made her pieces flatter the female figure this Autumn Winter.

Margaret Howell

Margaret Howell A/W 2010, illustrated by Natsuki Otani

Another dab hand having been on the fashion scene for almost four decades this is a designer with experience dressing both the male and female form. Margaret Howell‘s SS11 collection is a step on from last year but still plays on the “beach stripes and loose fit” ideology of her summer look. Describing the Howell woman as someone who is independent and discerning it’ll be no surprise when Howell creates a contemporary collection that still plays on the quality she is renowned for.

PPQ

PPQ A/W 2010, illustrated by Paolo Caravello

Believe it or not Amy Molyneaux and Percy Parker (aka PPQ) were the inspiration behind us all wearing skinny jeans and the Amy Winehouse/Pete Doherty looks that spawned a decade of copycats. Better know by their fashion pseudonym and with an army of celebrity followers (Rihanna, Alexa Chung and Daisy Lowe amongst many) they’ve been in the business since 1992 and certainly know their stuff. Their A/W 2010 collection featured a cotillion of graphic print and there’s always a very nostalgic feel to their looks; something of the graphic cartoon mixed with Joan Collins in Dynasty. Maybe that’s just me though. Expect big things from their S/S 2011 look; its one for “Sophia Loren in a rush with Peter Sellers in tow.”

Jaeger London

Jaeger A/W 2010, illustrated by Stéphanie Thieullent

Such a grown up retailer like Jaeger that still knows how to impress the younger clientele as well as appealing to their heritage customers. This SS11 collection will be a nod to artistic movements; namely Modernism (confronting condition), Surrealism (juxtaposition of surprise elements) and Minimalism (simplicity in art). With these elements Stuart Stokdale, Design Director, has created “cohesive collection” fused from all of the above and inspired by the cream of London’s art gallery crop.

Pringle of Scotland

Pringle of Scotland A/W 2010, illustrated by Maria del Carmen Smith

More recently Pringle have been best known for their celebrity collaborations with, well everyone, from Tilda Swinton to David Beckham and even Madonna. Their traditional Scottish production is still a big selling part of the brand but long gone is the traditional twin set. Last year saw a quiet emergence of colour within the summer Resort collection upon a theme of minimalist chic. Let’s see what this summer has to bring.

Categories ,A/W 2010, ,Betty Jackson, ,british fashion council, ,David Beckham, ,fashion, ,Gemma Randall, ,Jaeger, ,London Fashion Week, ,Madonna, ,Margaret Howell, ,Maria del Carmen Smith, ,Natsuki Otani, ,Paolo Caravello, ,ppq, ,Pringle of Scotland, ,S/S 2011, ,Stéphanie Thieullent

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2011 Catwalk Review: Jaeger

Una Burke A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Una Burke A/W 2011 by Joy Chokchai
Una Burke A/W 2011 by Joy Chokchai.

I really don’t know what it is about fashion that attracts so many people with a dark sensibility. Is it because an obsession with the way we look can easily tip into self flagellation? Maybe for striving but somehow never attaining perfection? Punishment, tadalafil pain and even death are a major inspiration for all sorts of fashionable creativity… and ideas provoked by S&M were present in spades at this LFW, visit this site as always.

Úna Burke presented her leatherwear collection at Fashion Scout accompanied by a somewhat disturbing film that my more erudite boyfriend informed me was similar to the work of Bjork’s one time other half Matthew Barney.

It featured scenes of a semi clad model in a dungeon – opening her eyes in gory close up before grappling her way towards the light and a crowd of bemused onlookers.

In cabinets we were invited to admire the bondage inspired pieces up close, presented alongside grainy black and white photos, stills from the film. Her website cites her stated aim “to create leather objects which are both visually captivating and technically challenging.” Úna Burke inhabits that grey area between art and fashion – making wearable art. Using traditional techniques, there is undoubtedly a fine sense of craftsmanship to her work. All well and good for a bit of sex play, but this kind of presentation leaves me wondering – what exactly is the market for this? Can one make a living this way? Or must one diversify into slightly more commercial pieces to survive? Witness the Maria Francesca Pepe exhibition a few days later…

You can read Matthew Bramford’s complimentary review of the same presentation right here.
Una Burke A/W 2011 by Joy Chokchai
Una Burke A/W 2011 by Joy Chokchai.

I really don’t know what it is about fashion that attracts so many people with a dark sensibility. Is it because an obsession with the way we look can easily tip into self flagellation? Maybe for striving but somehow never attaining perfection? Punishment, purchase pain and even death are a major inspiration for all sorts of fashionable creativity… and ideas provoked by S&M were present in spades at this LFW, find as always.

Una Burke A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryUna Burke A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryUna Burke A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryUna Burke A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory

Úna Burke presented her leatherwear collection at Fashion Scout accompanied by a somewhat disturbing film that my more erudite boyfriend informed me was similar to the work of Bjork’s one time other half Matthew Barney. It featured scenes of a semi clad model in a dungeon – opening her eyes in gory close up before grappling her way towards the light and a crowd of bemused onlookers.

Una Burke A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryUna Burke A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryUna Burke A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryUna Burke A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryUna Burke A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Una Burke A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

In cabinets we were invited to admire the bondage inspired pieces up close, splayed out and presented alongside grainy black and white photos, stills from the film. Her website cites her stated aim “to create leather objects which are both visually captivating and technically challenging.” Úna Burke inhabits that grey area between art and fashion – making wearable art. Using traditional techniques, there is undoubtedly a fine sense of craftsmanship to her work. All well and good for a bit of sex play, but this kind of presentation leaves me wondering – what exactly is the market for this? Can one make a living this way? Or must one diversify into slightly more commercial pieces to survive? Witness the Maria Francesca Pepe exhibition a few days later…

You can read Matthew Bramford’s complimentary review of the same presentation right here.
Una Burke A/W 2011 by Joy Chokchai
Una Burke A/W 2011 by Joy Chokchai.

I really don’t know what it is about fashion that attracts so many people with a dark sensibility. Is it because an obsession with the way we look can easily tip into self flagellation? Maybe encouraged by the desire to strive for but never being able to attain perfection? Punishment, advice pain and even death are a major inspiration for all sorts of fashionable creativity… and ideas provoked by S&M were present in spades at this LFW, as always.

Una Burke A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryUna Burke A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryUna Burke A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryUna Burke A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory

Úna Burke presented her leatherwear collection at Fashion Scout accompanied by a somewhat disturbing film that my more erudite boyfriend informed me was similar to the work of Bjork’s one time other half Matthew Barney. It featured scenes of a semi clad model in a dungeon – opening her eyes in gory close up before grappling her way towards the light and a crowd of bemused onlookers.

Una Burke A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryUna Burke A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryUna Burke A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryUna Burke A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryUna Burke A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Una Burke A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

In cabinets we were invited to admire the bondage inspired pieces up close, splayed out and presented alongside grainy black and white photos, stills from the film. Her website cites her stated aim “to create leather objects which are both visually captivating and technically challenging.” Úna Burke inhabits that grey area between art and fashion – making wearable art. Using traditional techniques, there is undoubtedly a fine sense of craftsmanship to her work. All well and good for a bit of sex play, but this kind of presentation leaves me wondering – what exactly is the market for this? Can one make a living this way? Or must one diversify into slightly more commercial pieces to survive? Witness the Maria Francesca Pepe exhibition a few days later…

You can read Matthew Bramford’s complimentary review of the same presentation right here.
Una Burke A/W 2011 by Joy Chokchai
Una Burke A/W 2011 by Joy Chokchai.

I really don’t know what it is about fashion that attracts so many people with a dark sensibility. Is it because an obsession with the way we look can easily tip into self flagellation? Maybe encouraged by the desire to strive for but never being able to attain perfection? Punishment, sales pain and even death are a major inspiration for all sorts of fashionable creativity… and ideas provoked by S&M were present in spades at this LFW, sildenafil as always.

Una Burke A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryUna Burke A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryUna Burke A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryUna Burke A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory

Úna Burke presented her leatherwear collection at Fashion Scout accompanied by a somewhat disturbing film that my more erudite boyfriend informed me was similar to the work of Bjork’s one time other half Matthew Barney. It featured scenes of a semi clad model in a dungeon – opening her eyes in gory close up before grappling her way towards the light and a crowd of bemused onlookers.

Una Burke A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryUna Burke A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryUna Burke A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryUna Burke A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryUna Burke A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Una Burke A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

In cabinets we were invited to admire the bondage inspired pieces up close, splayed out and presented alongside grainy black and white photos, stills from the film. Her website cites her stated aim “to create leather objects which are both visually captivating and technically challenging.” Úna Burke inhabits that grey area between art and fashion – making wearable art. Using traditional techniques, there is undoubtedly a fine sense of craftsmanship to her work. All well and good for a bit of sex play, but this kind of presentation leaves me wondering – what exactly is the market for this? Can one make a living this way? Or must one diversify into slightly more commercial pieces to survive? Witness the Maria Francesca Pepe exhibition a few days later…

You can read Matthew Bramford’s complimentary review of the same presentation right here.
Jaeger A/W 2011 by Madi
Jaeger A/W 2011 by Madi.

Jaeger, find I’m afraid, viagra 60mg is one of those shows for which I lost the press release several weeks ago. That’s if there ever was one – but who needs a blurb anyway? Surely the clothes should be able to do the talking…

Jaeger A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Jaeger A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Jaeger A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Jaeger A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Jaeger A/W 2011 by Katherine Tromans
Jaeger A/W 2011 by Katherine Tromans.

Jaeger is a traditional brand that has managed to up the fashion style stakes with in house design team shake ups. The current creative director is Stuart Stockdale, malady who formerly worked for Pringle of Scotland amongst others. He’s been with Jaeger for several years now and after a prolonged period in the doldrums he has succeeded in reinvigorating the brand. What is it with British heritage fashion brands? They’re just so very good at reinventing themselves.

Jaeger A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Jaeger A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Jaeger A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Jaeger A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Jaeger A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Jaeger A/W 2011 by Joana FariaJaeger A/W 2011 by Joana Faria
Jaeger A/W 2011 by Joana Faria.

It was under the clean lights of the BFC tent that Jaeger hit the catwalk, itself all clean lines and considered tailoring. Sharp, beautifully crisp well fitting garments ploughed out to meet the photographers. The collection was a delicious mix of autumnal colours: blocks of cinnamon, caramel, fallen leaf orange, paprika, mustard and moss gathering around punctual navy blues and sensible chocolate brown. Capacious leather bags and handheld clutches were the accessory of choice but I couldn’t keep my eyes off the shoes, cleverly styled with stripy woollen socks. Present and correct was the colour du jour – sharp bursts of orange red. Or on dazzling silky blouses a lip-smacking deep fuchsia pink. Yum.

Jaeger A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Jaeger A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Jaeger A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Jaeger A/W 2011 by Zoe Georgiou
Jaeger A/W 2011 by Zoe Georgiou.

This is what I would wear if I were a different kind of person: one who always looks immaculately turned out, whatever the occasion. And of course one who has a very nice steady stream of income. Working women in a certain type of job would do well to look to Jaeger for fabulous style and quality that won’t go out of fashion in a hurry.

Jaeger A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Jaeger A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Jaeger A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Jaeger A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Jaeger A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.
Jaeger A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

As you can see, I got a bit hypnotised by the feet…

You can see more illustrations by Joana Faria and Katherine Tromans in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration.

Categories ,ACOFI, ,Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration, ,BFC, ,Heritage, ,Jaeger, ,Joana Faria, ,Katherine Tromans, ,Madi, ,Madi Illustrates, ,Pringle of Scotland, ,Somerset House, ,Stuart Stockdale, ,Zoe Georgiou

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