Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012: Catwalk Review: Holly Fulton

Holly Fulton S/S 2012 by Megan Thomas

Holly Fulton S/S 2012 by Megan Thomas

I was blown away by Holly’s debut in A/W 2009 – a collection of designs influenced by my favourite movement, generic art deco. Mix that with jewel colours, rx luxurious materials and contemporary shapes, and I don’t see what there isn’t to love. When my ticket arrived, I didn’t care that it was standing, I was in that queue at 1.30pm, ready and waiting. I checked Twitter before the show, and saw that Marie Davies, the Junior Fashion Editor at Drapers had tweeted details from the show notes as being ‘dressed for Vegas but holidaying in Margate’, and that she was expecting ‘fruit machines and neon lights’. I thought that Holly’s previous collections had already channelled a little bit of Vegas ‘glamour’, but what would come of the British seaside resort combination?

Holly Fulton S/S 2012 by Geiko Louve

Holly Fulton S/S 2012 by Geiko Louve

When I got into the BFC Tent, I was determined to ensure that I got a good spot to take photos of Holly’s creations. I found myself at the end of the catwalk, and deliberated on where to stand – floor, or step, floor or step. The lady next to me, also holding a camera, smiled at me, and made way for me to stand next to her. I asked her if she had spotted who was on the front row (Hilary Alexander flying the Fulton flag in one of her printed dresses). She told me that she hadn’t noticed anyone, and that Holly was one of the few shows she attended, and solely because of her ‘pretty special’ jewellery. Suddenly, this lady’s name came to me, Julia Hutton-Squire, the editor of Adorn London, a jewellery-dedicated website that I read religiously. She was welcoming and friendly, and it was a pleasure to meet and enjoy the show with her.

Holly Fulton S/S 2012 by Miranda Williams

Holly Fulton S/S 2012 – All photography by Miranda Williams

In the darkness, the Aeroplane remix of the Cassius song The Sound of Violence began to play, a favourite of mine, so a very good start. To match this upbeat tempo, Holly opened her show with a signature bright canary yellow look. A pair of wide cut trousers, detailed with a black deco print, and a short sleeve checkerboard pattern top, in the same colours. And straight off, some jewellery! As the model walked, a huge pair of sea shell hoop earrings swung from her ears. Holly’s press release had said the show would take some influences from the sea, shell grottoes actually… were sea themed accessories going to be it? Mermaid-models having finished dressing in their eclectic outfits, to load themselves up with the spoils of the sea bed? Fantastic!

Holly Fulton S/S 2012 by Miranda Williams

Holly’s Versace influences became clear over the next few looks – when I spotted a peek of zebra print in a clutch bag that a model wearing a retro style brown and orange printed playsuit carried with her. This animal print stood out, in the middle of the looks, and worked as the collection’s most Vegas-fabulous designs. The first was a zebra print bomber jacket, cropped enough to rise and show an enviable flat stomach, which was paired with a white mini skirt, printed with an art deco and zebra pattern. The second was a flowing, European-esque jumpsuit, teamed with those shell earrings again. In a later look, a zebra pattern strapless top was worn underneath a white patent leather mini skirt, which was embroidered with a beautiful red coral design. This strapless top, from my position, looked like silk, but I learned later that it was actually intarsia knit, and part of a collaboration with Caerlee Mills, a Scottish textile mill who produced a number of pieces for this collection. Looking back at the photos from the show, these pieces are now easy to spot, but it is only with close inspection that you can see they are knitted and not printed silk. I loved the combination of these woven materials with Holly’s usual printed silks.

Holly Fulton S/S 2012 by Emmi Ojala

Holly Fulton S/S 2012 by Emmi Ojala

The exotic vibe carried on, with Holly presenting some of her signature body-con mini dresses and a couple of sexy swimwear looks. Holly also cited the work of American photographer Slim Aarons as an influence, who notably took photos of the social elite. It is his 1960’s pool-scene photos that reverberate in this collection. I was previously familiar with Aaron’s work, as one of my favourite jewellery designers, Merle O’Grady, was influenced by the same set of photos for her S/S 2011 collection. The photos are supremely kitsch and stylish, and I would recommend that you go and check them out. The bandeau swimwear was great, a nice addition for the range – although the white and black deco print bikini was worn by the most gorgeous model, and it was actually her I couldn’t keep my eyes off, rather than the bikini!

Holly Fulton S/S 2012 by Miranda Williams

On either side of the swimwear, were some fantastic mini dresses that were adorned with pop colour fringing, macramé beads and sequins. The sea theme continued through with shell, coral and wave prints popping over the dresses in blue and pink hues. This was definitely a show that said ‘Welcome to Summer‘. All Holly needed to top these off was a fantastic pair of shades – and there were Cutler and Gross to step in with some pretty special acetate sunnies to complete the look.

Holly Fulton S/S 2012 by Joana Faria

Holly Fulton S/S 2012 by Joana Faria

Holly loves a contrast, and we spanned a decade to the 1970’s with some silk wide leg trousers and a grand flowing maxi dress in sea flora prints. These were stark black, mixed with electric turquoise and would work as a glam evening choice. The continued narrative of prints, the sea, animal or natural, really helped bring this collection together. The illustrations of the coral, the seahorses, and the waves were kitsch, playing back to Slim Aaron’s photography. These looks also made the best of the Louboutin mules in patent black. It really is Holly’s choice of accessories that make her stand out for me – this run saw glossy totes, angular bags, in monochrome checks, studded cuffs, and of course the necklaces, which have become part of the Holly Fulton signature as much as the mini dresses.

Holly Fulton S/S 2012 by Miranda Williams
The show closed with a short mini shift, that came down the catwalk as a delicious offering of influences all at once – tribal zebra, delicate sea shells, and clashing colours, orange, black and white, finished off with dreamy pink tones. Add the pink sea shell earrings and patent peep toe shoes, and it was signature Holly Fulton.

Some critics may say that this collection didn’t see Holly push any boundaries, and show us something new, but for me it was a confident show, and she is building an aesthetic that her brand will no doubt grow steadily and successfully upon. Let’s give dues to a designer who can make the unlikely combinations of sequin, fringing and body con work with seashells, zebra print and Vegas influences. For me it was fantastic Fulton.

Categories ,1960s, ,1970s, ,Aaron Slims, ,accessories, ,Adorn London, ,Art Deco, ,bodycon, ,Caerlee Mills, ,cassius, ,Cutler and Gross, ,Drapers, ,Emmi Ojala, ,fashion, ,Geiko Louve, ,Hilary Alexander, ,Holly Fulton, ,jewellery, ,Joana Faria, ,knit, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,Louboutin, ,Megan Thomas, ,Merle O’Grady, ,Merle O’Grady, ,print, ,rca, ,S/S 2012, ,scotland, ,Slim Aarons, ,Swimwear, ,twitter, ,Vegas, ,Versace, ,Womenswear

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Catwalk Review: Ann-Sofie Back | Atelje

Ann Sofie Back S/S 2012 London Fashion Week by Dee Andrews

Ann-Sofie Back | BACK S/S 2012 illustrated by Dee Andrews

It’s 7 pm on the first day of London Fashion Week and the rapid advent of my first catwalk show clash; do I see Ashley Isham or Ann-Sofie Back | Atelje? I’m not familiar with either, case though as I clearly requested these invites, I’m sure both must have appealed to me in some form or other. A quick look through past look books online and I’m still undecided. I spy the locations for each show and my mind is made up; Ann-Sofie Back | Atelje at the BFC tent it is. I refuse to walk all the way to Il Bottaccio (again) – one of this season’s London Fashion Week venues, located miles (well maybe just under two miles) away from the hosting venue, Somerset House. If nothing else, it’s a sensible choice and means little time spent queuing and the acquisition of a front row seat.

Ann-Sofie Back | Atelje S/S 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay

Ann-Sofie Back | Atelje S/S 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay

Ann-Sofie Back | Atelje S/S 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay

Ann-Sofie Back | Atelje S/S 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay

Michael of Anastasia and Duck comes and sits next to me and chats enthusiastically about Back’s previous London Fashion Week shows and the theatrical element to them; fear inducing ghosts and zombies I’m informed. Not many designers take advantage of the opportunity to stage a memorable avant-garde show, so I’m now super excited to experience this one.

Ann-Sofie Back S/S 2012 London Fashion Week by Geiko Louve

Ann-Sofie Back | BACK S/S 2012 illustrated by Karla Perez aka Geiko Louve

So soon after the show commences, I’m a tad disappointed with the non-drama of the show, though if I’d read the press-release before, instead of after the show, the seemingly non-theatrical element would have made complete sense. This is because Ann-Sofie Back’s Atelje collection is inspired by religion and traditional Lutheran values coined Jantelagen; a set of axioms that frown upon and discourage success, conspicuousness, pride and satisfaction and acuity amongst other things:

The law of Jante
1. Thou shalt not believe thou art something.
2. Thou shalt not believe thou art as good as we.
3. Thou shalt not believe thou art more wise than we.
4. Thou shalt not fancy thyself better than we.
5. Thou shalt not believe thou knowest more than we.
6. Thou shalt not believe thou art greater than we.
7. Thou shalt not believe thou amountest to anything.
8. Thou shalt not laugh at us.
9. Thou shalt not believe that anyone is concerned with thee.
10. Thou shalt not believe thou canst teach us anything.
From Aksel Sandemose’s 1933 novel En flygtning krydser sit spor (A Fugitive Crosses His Tracks)

Ann Sofie Back | Atelje S/S 2012 London Fashion Week by Dee Andrews

Ann-Sofie Back | Atelje S/S 2012 illustrated by Dee Andrews

With Sweden being one of the most secularized countries in the world, these rules akin to the ideals of communism, appear contradictory to the character of the Nordic country. But it appears that Jantelagen is very much embedded into Swedish culture, economics and politics and is taken rather seriously.

Ann-Sofie Back | Atelje S/S 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay

Ann-Sofie Back | Atelje S/S 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay

Ann-Sofie Back | Atelje S/S 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay

Ann-Sofie Back | Atelje S/S 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay

Ann-Sofie Back doesn’t do savory inspiration; her collections are always a creative battle against or a fight for awareness of some form of oppression/suppression or other and the spring-summer collection is no different; a rebellion against Jantelagen.

Ann Sofie Back | Atelje S/S 2012 London Fashion Week by Dee Andrews

Ann-Sofie Back | Atelje S/S 2012 illustrated by Dee Andrews

The garments appear almost two-dimensional in their simple paper like forms; crisp, clear and severe. The colours are neutral: white, sand, ink black and office blue maintaining the illusion of inconspicuousness. However, the acute stripes, the use of flattering soft and iridescent organza and careful features such as pin-tucks and precise folds and creases all offend the Jantelagen commandments by being defiant, boldly standing out and exuding confidence. I rarely wear mute colours, but the white apron dress and white skirt and stripy top ensemble would most definitely find a home in my wardrobe.

Ann-Sofie Back | Atelje S/S 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay

Ann-Sofie Back | BACK S/S 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay

Ann-Sofie Back | BACK S/S 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay

Ann-Sofie Back’s BACK collection certainly acquiesces far more to conventional inconspicuous and unostentatious fashion. Linen is the ruling fabric in the collection and is constructed into simple, loose shapes, but almost always accessoriesed with the signature motif, the skinny belt, inspired by – wait for it… Spaghetti! The knitwear is unpretentious and though I can’t touch the the fabrics and see how they feel, I have a feeling they would be a pleasure to wear.

Ann-Sofie Back | BACK S/S 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay

Ann-Sofie Back | BACK S/S 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay

Ann-Sofie Back | BACK S/S 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay

My favourites in the BACK line are; the spacious hot pink linen dress and the long blue pleated skirt, very wearable, very chic. The collections haven’t blown my mind though the ideas behind them have certainly provoked curiosity, but they do however have commercial value.

Play the video and watch the show.

All photography by Akeela Bhattay

Categories ,Akeela Bhattay, ,Ann-Sofie Back, ,Article, ,Atelje, ,BFC Tent, ,british fashion council, ,catwalk show, ,Dee Andrews, ,designer, ,fashion, ,Frugal, ,Functional, ,Geiko Louve, ,God, ,illustrations, ,Intellectual, ,Jantelagen, ,LFW S/S 2012, ,London Fashion Week, ,Neautral colours, ,Oppression, ,Rebel, ,religion, ,review, ,September, ,simple, ,Somerset House, ,SS12, ,Suppression, ,sweden, ,swedish designer, ,Swedish Fashion, ,theatre, ,Venue

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Catwalk Review: Ann-Sofie Back | Atelje

Ann Sofie Back S/S 2012 London Fashion Week by Dee Andrews

Ann-Sofie Back | BACK S/S 2012 illustrated by Dee Andrews

It’s 7 pm on the first day of London Fashion Week and the rapid advent of my first catwalk show clash; do I see Ashley Isham or Ann-Sofie Back | Atelje? I’m not familiar with either, though as I clearly requested these invites, I’m sure both must have appealed to me in some form or other. A quick look through past look books online and I’m still undecided. I spy the locations for each show and my mind is made up; Ann-Sofie Back | Atelje at the BFC tent it is. I refuse to walk all the way to Il Bottaccio (again) – one of this season’s London Fashion Week venues, located miles (well maybe just under two miles) away from the hosting venue, Somerset House. If nothing else, it’s a sensible choice and means little time spent queuing and the acquisition of a front row seat.

Ann-Sofie Back | Atelje S/S 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay

Ann-Sofie Back | Atelje S/S 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay

Ann-Sofie Back | Atelje S/S 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay

Ann-Sofie Back | Atelje S/S 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay

Michael of Anastasia and Duck comes and sits next to me and chats enthusiastically about Back’s previous London Fashion Week shows and the theatrical element to them; fear inducing ghosts and zombies I’m informed. Not many designers take advantage of the opportunity to stage a memorable avant-garde show, so I’m now super excited to experience this one.

Ann-Sofie Back S/S 2012 London Fashion Week by Geiko Louve

Ann-Sofie Back | BACK S/S 2012 illustrated by Karla Perez aka Geiko Louve

So soon after the show commences, I’m a tad disappointed with the non-drama of the show, though if I’d read the press-release before, instead of after the show, the seemingly non-theatrical element would have made complete sense. This is because Ann-Sofie Back’s Atelje collection is inspired by religion and traditional Lutheran values coined Jantelagen; a set of axioms that frown upon and discourage success, conspicuousness, pride and satisfaction and acuity amongst other things:

The law of Jante
1. Thou shalt not believe thou art something.
2. Thou shalt not believe thou art as good as we.
3. Thou shalt not believe thou art more wise than we.
4. Thou shalt not fancy thyself better than we.
5. Thou shalt not believe thou knowest more than we.
6. Thou shalt not believe thou art greater than we.
7. Thou shalt not believe thou amountest to anything.
8. Thou shalt not laugh at us.
9. Thou shalt not believe that anyone is concerned with thee.
10. Thou shalt not believe thou canst teach us anything.
From Aksel Sandemose’s 1933 novel En flygtning krydser sit spor (A Fugitive Crosses His Tracks)

Ann Sofie Back | Atelje S/S 2012 London Fashion Week by Dee Andrews

Ann-Sofie Back | Atelje S/S 2012 illustrated by Dee Andrews

With Sweden being one of the most secularized countries in the world, these rules akin to the ideals of communism, appear contradictory to the character of the Nordic country. But it appears that Jantelagen is very much embedded into Swedish culture, economics and politics and is taken rather seriously.

Ann-Sofie Back | Atelje S/S 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay

Ann-Sofie Back | Atelje S/S 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay

Ann-Sofie Back | Atelje S/S 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay

Ann-Sofie Back | Atelje S/S 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay

Ann-Sofie Back doesn’t do savory inspiration; her collections are always a creative battle against or a fight for awareness of some form of oppression/suppression or other and the spring-summer collection is no different; a rebellion against Jantelagen.

Ann Sofie Back | Atelje S/S 2012 London Fashion Week by Dee Andrews

Ann-Sofie Back | Atelje S/S 2012 illustrated by Dee Andrews

The garments appear almost two-dimensional in their simple paper like forms; crisp, clear and severe. The colours are neutral: white, sand, ink black and office blue maintaining the illusion of inconspicuousness. However, the acute stripes, the use of flattering soft and iridescent organza and careful features such as pin-tucks and precise folds and creases all offend the Jantelagen commandments by being defiant, boldly standing out and exuding confidence. I rarely wear mute colours, but the white apron dress and white skirt and stripy top ensemble would most definitely find a home in my wardrobe.

Ann-Sofie Back | Atelje S/S 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay

Ann-Sofie Back | BACK S/S 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay

Ann-Sofie Back | BACK S/S 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay

Ann-Sofie Back’s BACK collection certainly acquiesces far more to conventional inconspicuous and unostentatious fashion. Linen is the ruling fabric in the collection and is constructed into simple, loose shapes, but almost always accessoriesed with the signature motif, the skinny belt, inspired by – wait for it… Spaghetti! The knitwear is unpretentious and though I can’t touch the the fabrics and see how they feel, I have a feeling they would be a pleasure to wear.

Ann-Sofie Back | BACK S/S 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay

Ann-Sofie Back | BACK S/S 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay

Ann-Sofie Back | BACK S/S 2012 London Fashion Week by Akeela Bhattay

My favourites in the BACK line are; the spacious hot pink linen dress and the long blue pleated skirt, very wearable, very chic. The collections haven’t blown my mind though the ideas behind them have certainly provoked curiosity, but they do however have commercial value.

Play the video and watch the show.

All photography by Akeela Bhattay

Categories ,Akeela Bhattay, ,Ann-Sofie Back, ,Article, ,Atelje, ,BFC Tent, ,british fashion council, ,catwalk show, ,Dee Andrews, ,designer, ,fashion, ,Frugal, ,Functional, ,Geiko Louve, ,God, ,illustrations, ,Intellectual, ,Jantelagen, ,LFW S/S 2012, ,London Fashion Week, ,Neautral colours, ,Oppression, ,Rebel, ,religion, ,review, ,September, ,simple, ,Somerset House, ,SS12, ,Suppression, ,sweden, ,swedish designer, ,Swedish Fashion, ,theatre, ,Venue

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Catwalk Review: Bora Aksu

Bora Aksu S/S 2012 by Gareth A Hopkins
Bora Aksu S/S 2012 by Gareth A Hopkins.

Nicola Roberts was once more amongst the attendees for The Unknown, online which promised an entire narrative within the collection. Ever the romantic, tadalafil Bora Aksu discovered four old postcards in a Geneva antiques market. Initially attracted to the beautiful Edwardian imagery, it was to be the words written on the back that would inspire him the most. Written by a young lady named Rose, the postcards disclosed her love for Charles… and left Bora wondering what happened to this great romance of over one hundred years ago. And thus he embarked on The Unknown.

Bora Aksu S/S 2012 by Karla Pérez (Geiko Louve)Bora Aksu S/S 2012 by Karla Pérez (Geiko Louve)
Bora Aksu S/S 2012 by Karla Pérez aka Geiko Louve.

Bora Aksu SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Bora Aksu SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Bora Aksu SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Bora Aksu SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Bora Aksu SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Bora Aksu SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Bora Aksu SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Bora Aksu S/S 2012 by Gareth A Hopkins
Bora Aksu S/S 2012 by Gareth A Hopkins.

Lighting low, the show began with a group of models who emerged en masse at the head of the runway, each dressed head to toe in shades of cream and beige with their heads wrapped in flowery garlands. Before them the catwalk (with no riser this season) was strewn with autumnal petals. Short puff skirts paired with crisp sleeveless blouses gave way to columns of tulle and net, all with signature Bora Aksu detailing. The demure colouring left me with the impression of an Edwardian schoolgirl who had been caught in her undies, but amongst this were some very wearable separates that should sell well in the real world.

Bora Aksu S/S 2012 by Megan Thomas
Bora Aksu S/S 2012 by Megan Thomas.

With a splash of sea blue roped detailing the collection moved onto sophisticated blacks and navy blues. Sweeping dresses with ribbon seam details emphasised womanly curves and curved necklines riffed on the current mania for all things pan collared. Sheer fabrics gave a glimpse of nipple, a common theme of this fashion week.

Bora Aksu SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Bora Aksu SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Bora Aksu SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Bora Aksu SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Bora Aksu SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Bora Aksu SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Bora Aksu SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Bora Aksu SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Bora Aksu S/S 2012 by June Chanpoomidole
Bora Aksu S/S 2012 by June Chanpoomidole.

I prefer my Bora with a bit more colour and structure, but this was an elegant collection that showed off Bora Aksu‘s love of all things Edwardian. It was also an excellent showcase for his new venture into the realm of hosiery. In the goodie bags were a pair of very special Bora Aksu branded tights, the rolling fishnet emulating the curved seams of his clothes: a perfect way to own a piece of Bora for a fraction of the cost of a whole outfit. Over the next few days I spotted many a pair of Bora clad legs on the front row, so it looks like he’s onto a winner.

Categories ,Antique, ,Beige, ,BFC, ,Bora Aksu, ,Charles, ,Cream, ,Edwardian, ,Gareth A Hopkins, ,Geiko Louve, ,Geneva, ,Hosiery, ,June Chanpoomidole, ,June Sees, ,Karla Perez, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,Megan Thomas, ,Nicola Roberts, ,Nipples, ,Pan Collars, ,postcards, ,Romantic, ,Rose, ,S/S 2012, ,Sheer, ,Somerset House, ,The Unknown, ,tights

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012: Catwalk Review: Holly Fulton

Holly Fulton S/S 2012 by Megan Thomas

Holly Fulton S/S 2012 by Megan Thomas

I was blown away by Holly’s debut in A/W 2009 – a collection of designs influenced by my favourite movement, generic art deco. Mix that with jewel colours, rx luxurious materials and contemporary shapes, and I don’t see what there isn’t to love. When my ticket arrived, I didn’t care that it was standing, I was in that queue at 1.30pm, ready and waiting. I checked Twitter before the show, and saw that Marie Davies, the Junior Fashion Editor at Drapers had tweeted details from the show notes as being ‘dressed for Vegas but holidaying in Margate’, and that she was expecting ‘fruit machines and neon lights’. I thought that Holly’s previous collections had already channelled a little bit of Vegas ‘glamour’, but what would come of the British seaside resort combination?

Holly Fulton S/S 2012 by Geiko Louve

Holly Fulton S/S 2012 by Geiko Louve

When I got into the BFC Tent, I was determined to ensure that I got a good spot to take photos of Holly’s creations. I found myself at the end of the catwalk, and deliberated on where to stand – floor, or step, floor or step. The lady next to me, also holding a camera, smiled at me, and made way for me to stand next to her. I asked her if she had spotted who was on the front row (Hilary Alexander flying the Fulton flag in one of her printed dresses). She told me that she hadn’t noticed anyone, and that Holly was one of the few shows she attended, and solely because of her ‘pretty special’ jewellery. Suddenly, this lady’s name came to me, Julia Hutton-Squire, the editor of Adorn London, a jewellery-dedicated website that I read religiously. She was welcoming and friendly, and it was a pleasure to meet and enjoy the show with her.

Holly Fulton S/S 2012 by Miranda Williams

Holly Fulton S/S 2012 – All photography by Miranda Williams

In the darkness, the Aeroplane remix of the Cassius song The Sound of Violence began to play, a favourite of mine, so a very good start. To match this upbeat tempo, Holly opened her show with a signature bright canary yellow look. A pair of wide cut trousers, detailed with a black deco print, and a short sleeve checkerboard pattern top, in the same colours. And straight off, some jewellery! As the model walked, a huge pair of sea shell hoop earrings swung from her ears. Holly’s press release had said the show would take some influences from the sea, shell grottoes actually… were sea themed accessories going to be it? Mermaid-models having finished dressing in their eclectic outfits, to load themselves up with the spoils of the sea bed? Fantastic!

Holly Fulton S/S 2012 by Miranda Williams

Holly’s Versace influences became clear over the next few looks – when I spotted a peek of zebra print in a clutch bag that a model wearing a retro style brown and orange printed playsuit carried with her. This animal print stood out, in the middle of the looks, and worked as the collection’s most Vegas-fabulous designs. The first was a zebra print bomber jacket, cropped enough to rise and show an enviable flat stomach, which was paired with a white mini skirt, printed with an art deco and zebra pattern. The second was a flowing, European-esque jumpsuit, teamed with those shell earrings again. In a later look, a zebra pattern strapless top was worn underneath a white patent leather mini skirt, which was embroidered with a beautiful red coral design. This strapless top, from my position, looked like silk, but I learned later that it was actually intarsia knit, and part of a collaboration with Caerlee Mills, a Scottish textile mill who produced a number of pieces for this collection. Looking back at the photos from the show, these pieces are now easy to spot, but it is only with close inspection that you can see they are knitted and not printed silk. I loved the combination of these woven materials with Holly’s usual printed silks.

Holly Fulton S/S 2012 by Emmi Ojala

Holly Fulton S/S 2012 by Emmi Ojala

The exotic vibe carried on, with Holly presenting some of her signature body-con mini dresses and a couple of sexy swimwear looks. Holly also cited the work of American photographer Slim Aarons as an influence, who notably took photos of the social elite. It is his 1960’s pool-scene photos that reverberate in this collection. I was previously familiar with Aaron’s work, as one of my favourite jewellery designers, Merle O’Grady, was influenced by the same set of photos for her S/S 2011 collection. The photos are supremely kitsch and stylish, and I would recommend that you go and check them out. The bandeau swimwear was great, a nice addition for the range – although the white and black deco print bikini was worn by the most gorgeous model, and it was actually her I couldn’t keep my eyes off, rather than the bikini!

Holly Fulton S/S 2012 by Miranda Williams

On either side of the swimwear, were some fantastic mini dresses that were adorned with pop colour fringing, macramé beads and sequins. The sea theme continued through with shell, coral and wave prints popping over the dresses in blue and pink hues. This was definitely a show that said ‘Welcome to Summer‘. All Holly needed to top these off was a fantastic pair of shades – and there were Cutler and Gross to step in with some pretty special acetate sunnies to complete the look.

Holly Fulton S/S 2012 by Joana Faria

Holly Fulton S/S 2012 by Joana Faria

Holly loves a contrast, and we spanned a decade to the 1970’s with some silk wide leg trousers and a grand flowing maxi dress in sea flora prints. These were stark black, mixed with electric turquoise and would work as a glam evening choice. The continued narrative of prints, the sea, animal or natural, really helped bring this collection together. The illustrations of the coral, the seahorses, and the waves were kitsch, playing back to Slim Aaron’s photography. These looks also made the best of the Louboutin mules in patent black. It really is Holly’s choice of accessories that make her stand out for me – this run saw glossy totes, angular bags, in monochrome checks, studded cuffs, and of course the necklaces, which have become part of the Holly Fulton signature as much as the mini dresses.

Holly Fulton S/S 2012 by Miranda Williams
The show closed with a short mini shift, that came down the catwalk as a delicious offering of influences all at once – tribal zebra, delicate sea shells, and clashing colours, orange, black and white, finished off with dreamy pink tones. Add the pink sea shell earrings and patent peep toe shoes, and it was signature Holly Fulton.

Some critics may say that this collection didn’t see Holly push any boundaries, and show us something new, but for me it was a confident show, and she is building an aesthetic that her brand will no doubt grow steadily and successfully upon. Let’s give dues to a designer who can make the unlikely combinations of sequin, fringing and body con work with seashells, zebra print and Vegas influences. For me it was fantastic Fulton.

Categories ,1960s, ,1970s, ,Aaron Slims, ,accessories, ,Adorn London, ,Art Deco, ,bodycon, ,Caerlee Mills, ,cassius, ,Cutler and Gross, ,Drapers, ,Emmi Ojala, ,fashion, ,Geiko Louve, ,Hilary Alexander, ,Holly Fulton, ,jewellery, ,Joana Faria, ,knit, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,Louboutin, ,Megan Thomas, ,Merle O’Grady, ,Merle O’Grady, ,print, ,rca, ,S/S 2012, ,scotland, ,Slim Aarons, ,Swimwear, ,twitter, ,Vegas, ,Versace, ,Womenswear

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2011 Presentation Review: Maria Francesca Pepe (by Amelia)

Osman A/W 2011 by Ellie Sutton
Osman A/W 2011 by Ellie Sutton.

Osman. Not a name that I’m overly familiar with, healing stomach although we have frequently written about designer Osman Yousefzada. He’s trained the likes of the super talented Henrietta Ludgate and when he showed as part of Fashion in Motion at the V&A we were there to admire his work.

Osman. Photography by Tim Adey
Osman. Photography by Tim Adey.

Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011 by Holly Monger
Osman A/W 2011 by Holly Monger.

So it was that with enthusiasm I went to my first Osman show, pilule settling on the front row to much amusement as another contributor befriended the head buyer of Browns. Next along some buyers threw a hissy fit when asked to move in favour of Liberty, at which they threatened to leave the show and what’s worse, cancel their Osman orders. I do find these insights into the actual trade part of LFW most intriguing – buyers are massively important at the shows where large orders from key retailers really matter… namely the shows in the BFC tent. And it’s the Liberty and Browns of this world which are Gods, something which lesser shop buyers may discover the embarrassing way. Needless to say I kept my head down and stuck to admiring the ink splodge catwalk, protected the entire length by guards.

Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.
How much do I love this dress?!

Osman A/W 2011 by Ellie Sutton
Osman A/W 2011 by Ellie Sutton.

The Afghan designer is fabled for his clean, regal lines and this was much in evidence as the show opened with a stunning white and royal blue dress that mirrored the catwalk design, which in turn was inspired by a series of lightbox installations by the artist Catherine Yass. Satu Fox wrote in 2009 of Osman’s refusal to follow current trends and this still felt very true in a beautifully elegant show where pared down tailoring was absolutely the order of the day.

Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011 by Holly Monger
Osman A/W 2011 by Holly Monger.

Wide legged trousers, A-line maxi-dresses, a caped dress underscored with a splash of orange, beautiful marled grey boucle wool fabrics… and an intriguing gold apron outfit which opened at the back. I could imagine almost every outfit being worn and admired… there was no filler here. The show ended with a return to the royal blue splotch theme, this time across the breast area of a searing fuchsia maxi-dress. This was an extremely confident collection that explained to me precisely why Osman has the buyers salivating. Absolutely gorgeous. If only he hadn’t ruined it with that one piece of what I presume was fur… entirely unnecessary.

Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.
Fur? Or an interesting use of alpaca wool? We’re not sure, and nor is anyone else… I really do hope the latter.

Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.
Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

You can read Naomi Law’s equally admiring review here.
Osman A/W 2011 by Ellie Sutton
Osman A/W 2011 by Ellie Sutton.

Osman. Not a name that I’m overly familiar with, viagra 100mg although we have frequently written about designer Osman Yousefzada. He’s trained the likes of the super talented Henrietta Ludgate and when he showed as part of Fashion in Motion at the V&A we were there to admire his work.

Osman. Photography by Tim Adey
Osman. Photography by Tim Adey.

Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011 by Holly Monger
Osman A/W 2011 by Holly Monger.

So it was that with enthusiasm I went to my first Osman show, settling on the front row to much amusement as another contributor befriended the head buyer of Browns. Next along some buyers threw a hissy fit when asked to move in favour of Liberty, at which they threatened to leave the show and what’s worse, cancel their Osman orders. I do find these insights into the actual trade part of LFW most intriguing – buyers are massively important at the shows where large orders from key retailers really matter… namely the shows in the BFC tent. And it’s the Liberty and Browns of this world which are Gods, something which lesser shop buyers may discover the embarrassing way. Needless to say I kept my head down and stuck to admiring the ink splodge catwalk, protected the entire length by guards.

Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.
How much do I love this dress?!

Osman A/W 2011 by Ellie Sutton
Osman A/W 2011 by Ellie Sutton.

The Afghan designer is fabled for his clean, regal lines and this was much in evidence as the show opened with a stunning white and royal blue dress that mirrored the catwalk design, which in turn was inspired by a series of lightbox installations by the artist Catherine Yass. Satu Fox wrote in 2009 of Osman’s refusal to follow current trends and this still felt very true in a beautifully elegant show where pared down tailoring was absolutely the order of the day.

Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011 by Holly Monger
Osman A/W 2011 by Holly Monger.

Wide legged trousers, A-line maxi-dresses, a caped dress underscored with a splash of orange, beautiful marled grey boucle wool fabrics… and an intriguing gold apron outfit which opened at the back. I could imagine almost every outfit being worn and admired… there was no filler here. The show ended with a return to the royal blue splotch theme, this time across the breast area of a searing fuchsia maxi-dress. This was an extremely confident collection that explained to me precisely why Osman has the buyers salivating. Absolutely gorgeous. If only he hadn’t ruined it with that one piece of what I presume was fur… entirely unnecessary.

Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.
Fur? Or an interesting use of alpaca wool? We’re not sure, and nor is anyone else… I really do hope the latter.

Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.
Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

You can read Naomi Law’s equally admiring review here.
Osman A/W 2011 by Ellie Sutton
Osman A/W 2011 by Ellie Sutton.

Osman. Not a name that I’m overly familiar with, dosage although we have frequently written about designer Osman Yousefzada. He’s trained the likes of the super talented Henrietta Ludgate and when he showed as part of Fashion in Motion at the V&A we were there to admire his work.

Osman. Photography by Tim Adey
Osman. Photography by Tim Adey.

Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011 by Holly Monger
Osman A/W 2011 by Holly Monger.

So it was that with enthusiasm I went to my first Osman show, ask settling on the front row to much amusement as another contributor befriended the head buyer of Browns. Next along some buyers threw a hissy fit when asked to move in favour of Liberty, at which they threatened to leave the show and what’s worse, cancel their Osman orders. I do find these insights into the actual trade part of LFW most intriguing – buyers are massively important at the shows where large orders from key retailers really matter… namely the shows in the BFC tent. And it’s the Liberty and Browns of this world which are Gods, something which lesser shop buyers may discover the embarrassing way. Needless to say I kept my head down and stuck to admiring the ink splodge catwalk, protected the entire length by guards.

Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.
How much do I love this dress?!

Osman A/W 2011 by Ellie Sutton
Osman A/W 2011 by Ellie Sutton.

The Afghan designer is fabled for his clean, regal lines and this was much in evidence as the show opened with a stunning white and royal blue dress that mirrored the catwalk design, which in turn was inspired by a series of lightbox installations by the artist Catherine Yass. Satu Fox wrote in 2009 of Osman’s refusal to follow current trends and this still felt very true in a beautifully elegant show where pared down tailoring was absolutely the order of the day.

Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011 by Holly Monger
Osman A/W 2011 by Holly Monger.

Wide legged trousers, A-line maxi-dresses, a caped dress underscored with a splash of orange, beautiful marled grey boucle wool fabrics… and an intriguing gold apron outfit which opened at the back. I could imagine almost every outfit being worn and admired… there was no filler here. The show ended with a return to the royal blue splotch theme, this time across the breast area of a searing fuchsia maxi-dress. This was an extremely confident collection that explained to me precisely why Osman has the buyers salivating. Absolutely gorgeous. If only he hadn’t ruined it with that one piece of what I presume was fur… entirely unnecessary.

Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.
Fur? Or an interesting use of alpaca wool? We’re not sure, and nor is anyone else… I really do hope the latter.

Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.
Osman A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

You can read Naomi Law’s equally admiring review here.
Maria Francesca Pepe by Karla Pérez Manrique
Maria Francesca Pepe by Karla Pérez Manrique.

At the entrance there stood a horned model, visit web arms crossed and lycra-ed legs askance. Face masked. Model or mannequin? It wasn’t immediately obvious. In a season of slick presentations the one given by Maria Francesca Pepe – a true Amazonian beauty herself – really stood out for its professionalism. But it made me uncomfortable.

Maria Francesca Pepe, <a target=visit LFW A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.” title=”Maria Francesca Pepe, price LFW A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.” width=”480″ height=”615″ class=”aligncenter size-full wp-image-37268″ />Maria Francesca Pepe, LFW A/W 2011
Maria Francesca Pepe at LFW A/W 2011. Isn’t she pretty? Photography by Amelia Gregory.

Red lighting shifted, pulsating over models that looked younger than legal. Young and nervous. One was laid prostrate on a plinth across the entrance to the next room, two more further back, and then in the far room what I can only describe as a child sat perched in front of a series of mannequins, none of which I could see in the gloaming. This girl had the face of an imp, a feeling encouraged by her amazing resin and carbon steel curved and studded hat – a bastardised version of something a gnome might wear. Beneath her flowing robes I suddenly realised why she was so uncomfortable. The bum and back of her tights were also encrusted with spikes. Is this a good idea? Should I be calling out the NSPCC?

Maria Francesca Pepe, LFW A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Maria Francesca Pepe, LFW A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMaria Francesca Pepe by Karla Pérez Manrique
Maria Francesca Pepe by Karla Pérez Manrique.

But what of the jewellery and accessories on display? I must confess that it took me awhile to look in at the details, such was the overwhelming effect of towering horned creatures. I had a brief opportunity to ask Maria who she would most like to wear her showpiece headpieces, which are heavily encrusted with hexagonal Swarovski crystals in the style of Medieval helmets. The answer was of course Lady Gaga. But the real point of all this girly S&M drama? Why of course: it was to sell a diffusion line. MFP accessories are available online at ASOS.

Maria Francesca Pepe A-W 2011-ringsMaria Francesca Pepe, LFW A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Maria Francesca Pepe by Karla Pérez Manrique
Maria Francesca Pepe by Karla Pérez Manrique.

Each child model sported expertly manicured hands, dangling ‘amulets’ dripping from her tiny fingers. The Fortuna collection features everyday jewellery made in workhorse metals such as brass and accessorised with crystals and pearls. And always those ever present studs.

Maria Francesca Pepe is also available at Wolf & Badger. You can read Helen Martin’s review here.

Categories ,ASOS, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Geiko Louve, ,Helen Martin, ,Karla Pérez Manrique, ,Lady Gaga, ,Maria Francesca Pepe, ,medieval, ,MFP, ,Swarovski, ,Trace Publicity, ,Wolf & Badger

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2011 Presentation Review: Maria Francesca Pepe (by Amelia)

Maria Francesca Pepe by Karla Pérez Manrique
Maria Francesca Pepe by Karla Pérez Manrique.

At the entrance there stood a horned model, arms crossed and lycra-ed legs askance. Face masked. Model or mannequin? It wasn’t immediately obvious. In a season of slick presentations the one given by Maria Francesca Pepe – a true Amazonian beauty herself – really stood out for its professionalism. But it made me uncomfortable.

Maria Francesca Pepe, LFW A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Maria Francesca Pepe, LFW A/W 2011
Maria Francesca Pepe at LFW A/W 2011. Isn’t she pretty? Photography by Amelia Gregory.

Red lighting shifted, pulsating over models that looked younger than legal. Young and nervous. One was laid prostrate on a plinth across the entrance to the next room, two more further back, and then in the far room what I can only describe as a child sat perched in front of a series of mannequins, none of which I could see in the gloaming. This girl had the face of an imp, a feeling encouraged by her amazing resin and carbon steel curved and studded hat – a bastardised version of something a gnome might wear. Beneath her flowing robes I suddenly realised why she was so uncomfortable. The bum and back of her tights were also encrusted with spikes. Is this a good idea? Should I be calling out the NSPCC?

Maria Francesca Pepe, LFW A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Maria Francesca Pepe, LFW A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMaria Francesca Pepe by Karla Pérez Manrique
Maria Francesca Pepe by Karla Pérez Manrique.

But what of the jewellery and accessories on display? I must confess that it took me awhile to look in at the details, such was the overwhelming effect of towering horned creatures. I had a brief opportunity to ask Maria who she would most like to wear her showpiece headpieces, which are heavily encrusted with hexagonal Swarovski crystals in the style of Medieval helmets. The answer was of course Lady Gaga. But the real point of all this girly S&M drama? Why of course: it was to sell a diffusion line. MFP accessories are available online at ASOS.

Maria Francesca Pepe A-W 2011-ringsMaria Francesca Pepe, LFW A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.Maria Francesca Pepe by Karla Pérez Manrique
Maria Francesca Pepe by Karla Pérez Manrique.

Each child model sported expertly manicured hands, dangling ‘amulets’ dripping from her tiny fingers. The Fortuna collection features everyday jewellery made in workhorse metals such as brass and accessorised with crystals and pearls. And always those ever present studs.

Maria Francesca Pepe is also available at Wolf & Badger. You can read Helen Martin’s review here.

Categories ,ASOS, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Geiko Louve, ,Helen Martin, ,Karla Pérez Manrique, ,Lady Gaga, ,Maria Francesca Pepe, ,medieval, ,MFP, ,Swarovski, ,Trace Publicity, ,Wolf & Badger

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Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland S/S 2012 in Łódź: Gala Dyplomowa Show at Andels

Dominika Naziebly by Joanne Oatts
Dominika Naziebly A/W 2010 by Joanne Oatts.

On Thursday night Andels Hotel hosted the Gala Graduate show of the Academy of Fine Arts, otherwise known as the Gala Dyplomowa, featuring top graduate fashion talent. We were ushered to the top floor of the hotel where the warehouse has retained its original huge proportions, big enough for a catwalk and plenty of seating. An utterly fabulous venue, and very convenient too…

Here, in alphabetical order (cos that’s the way it rolls) are the designers that showed:

Adriana Grudzinska KC Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Adriana Grudzinska KC Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Adriana Grudzinska KC Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Adrianna Grudzinska showed Polacz Kropki (Slow Up) – swing dresses and pleated separates in shades of camel, mushroom and peach.

Aleksandra Kmieci Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012 photo by Amelia Gregory
Aleksandra Kmieci Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012 photo by Amelia Gregory
Aleksandra Kmiecik Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012 photo by Amelia Gregory
Aleksandra Kmiecik Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012 photo by Amelia Gregory
Aleksandra Kmiecik Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012 photo by Amelia Gregory
Kobieta Symetryczna featured sharp tailoring in white, black and beige with highlights in red slashes by Aleksandra Kmiecik, who also shows on the main schedule. I saw parts of this collection last season and you can read my review here.

Alicja Antoszczyk Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Alicja Antoszczyk Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Alicja Antoszczyk Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Alicja Antoszczyk Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Alicja Antoszczyk Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Alicja Antoszczyk Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Alicja Antoszczyk Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Gala graduate designer Alicja Antoszczyk showed as part of the Golden Thread Awards last season, so I instantly recognised her sleek rubberised garments, layered in sophisticated shades. The collection is called Zawsze Jest Jakie’s Ale: intriguing!

Dominika Naziebly Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Dominika Naziebly Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Dominika Naziebly Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Dominika Naziebly Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Dominika Naziebly Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Dominika Naziebly Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Dominika Naziebly Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Eco designer Dominika Naziebly also showed at the Golden Thread Awards: my favourite was wheeled out once again, a stunning red puffball dress. This season she also showed on the Off Out Of Schedule catwalk, review to come shortly.

Elzbieta Kapczynska KC Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Elzbieta Kapczynska KC Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Zip details and drop crotches were the order of the day at Elzbieta Kapczynska-KC, with a collection titled Zbroja Miejska.

Magdalena Zajaczkowska Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Magdalena Zajaczkowska Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Magdalena Zajaczkowska Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Magdalena Zajaczkowska Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Magdalena Zajaczkowska by Geiko Louve
Magdalena Zajaczkowska by Geiko Louve.

Magdalena Zajaczkowska‘s collection was called Sploty I Przeploty, meaning Pleats and Intertwines. She showed oversized and bulbous knitwear in slate and dark jewel colours.

Martyna Idzikowsk Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Martyna Idzikowsk Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Martyna Idzikowsk Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Martyna Idzikowsk Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Martyna Idzikowsk Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Martyna Idzikowsk Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Martyna Idzikowsk Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Martyna Idzikowska showed a reprise of her innovative collection shown at the Golden Thread Awards – incredible layers of white fabrics created egg-like silhouettes, emphasised with blood red underlayers.

Olga Mieloszyk Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Olga Mieloszyk Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Olga Mieloszyk Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Olga Mieloszyk Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Olga Mieloszyk Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Olga Mieloszyk Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Olga Mieloszyk Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Olga Mieloszyk Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Olga Mieloszyk Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Olga Mieloszyk by Novemto Komo
Olga Mieloszyk by Novemto Komo.

Not speaking a word of Polish, I can’t be entirely sure, but I think that Olga Mieloszyk won the main award. Her Oranzeria collection was amongst my favourites: beautiful and wearable womens and menswear with intricate frills, panelling and pleated details in shades of orange and browns.

Karolina Glaguta Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Karolina Glaguta Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Karolina Glaguta Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Karolina Glaguta Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Karolina Glaguta Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Karolina Glaguta Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Karolina Glaguta Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Karolina Glaguta Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Karolina Glaguta Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
All photography by Amelia Gregory.

The show ended with a beautiful selection of sculpted evening dresses in sweetie shades by Karolina Glegula, except I am not sure I wrote down her name correctly: I did my best by squinting at the screen behind the catwalk since there was no information in written form to take away.

Find out more about the Golden Thread Awards in my previous blog post: it was certainly a night to remember: two solid hours of catwalk show!

Categories ,A/W 2011, ,Academy of Fine Arts, ,Adrianna Grudzinska, ,Aleksandra Kmiecik, ,Alicja Antoszczyk, ,Andels, ,Coats, ,Dominika Naziebly, ,Eco fashion, ,Elzbieta Kapczynska, ,Evening Wear, ,Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland, ,Gala Dyplomowa, ,Gala Show, ,Geiko Louve, ,Golden Thread Awards, ,Joanne Oatts, ,Karolina Glegula, ,knitwear, ,Kobieta Symetryczna, ,Lodz, ,Magdalena Zajaczkowska, ,Martyna Idzikowska, ,Novemto Komo, ,Off Out Of Schedule, ,Olga Mieloszyk, ,Oranzeria, ,Pleats and Intertwines, ,Polacz Kropki (Slow Up), ,Sploty i Przeploty, ,Zawsze Jest Jakie’s Ale, ,Zbroja Miejska

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Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland S/S 2012 in Łódź: Teresa Kopias

Teresa Kopias S/S 2012 by Geiko Louve
Teresa Kopias S/S 2012 by Geiko Louve.

I arrived late for the Teresa Kopias show, which afforded me a great view of the models posing in front of a wind machine at the head of the catwalk, but sadly not of the buff men posed on stilts at the other end.

Teresa Kopias Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography Amelia Gregory
Teresa Kopias Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography Amelia Gregory
Teresa Kopias Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography Amelia Gregory
Teresa Kopias Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography Amelia Gregory
Teresa Kopias Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography Amelia Gregory
Teresa Kopias S/S 2012. All photography Amelia Gregory.

I have been told that Teresa Kopias is not what is considered a ‘proper’ designer in Poland, rather she is someone who has been around for ever, who started her career many years ago selling dresses on a market stall and now makes high end formal wear. Well, she may not be massively fashion forward, but I thought her beautifully made dresses were pretty fabulous for a special occasion, and I could easily see a few of them gracing the red carpet.

Teresa Kopias Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography Amelia Gregory
Teresa Kopias Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography Amelia Gregory
Teresa Kopias Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography Amelia Gregory
Teresa Kopias Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography Amelia Gregory
Teresa Kopias Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography Amelia Gregory
The show was split into two halves, with the first section given over to formal day wear: brightly coloured shantung silk dresses with oversized bow detailing. The lighting then became more dramatic as a series of blowsy chiffon dresses took centre stage. Teresa Kopias‘ S/S 2012 collection may not have been ground-breaking, but it was rather lovely, I thought.

Teresa Kopias Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography Amelia Gregory
Teresa Kopias Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography Amelia Gregory
Teresa Kopias Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography Amelia Gregory
Teresa Kopias Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography Amelia Gregory
Teresa Kopias Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography Amelia Gregory
Teresa Kopias S/S 2012. Doesn’t this last model have a touch of the Kate Moss about her?

Teresa Kopias Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography Amelia Gregory
Teresa Kopias Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography Amelia Gregory
Teresa Kopias S/S 2012. Note buff men on stilts!

Categories ,Chiffon, ,Evening Wear, ,Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland, ,Geiko Louve, ,Kate Moss, ,Lodz, ,Naked Men, ,Shantung Silk, ,Teresa Kopias

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Amelia’s Magazine | Free Range Graduate Shows 2012: Somerset College BA Fashion Design Review

Rocea Greenway by Adam Pryce
Rocea Greenway by Adam Pryce.

And so the graduate shows return for business once again… starting with a burst of catwalk displays at the Truman Brewery as part of the 12th Free Range exhibition… where for the first time I attended a student fashion show. This was thanks to an invite from student Jennifer Riley, and made possible by a fortunate confluence of circumstances: my partner was off work and able to watch Snarfle for an hour, and I live moments away just off Brick Lane… a handy spot to reside for many many reasons!

Nipa Yamjamnan Somerset college by Geiko Louve
Nipa Yamjamnan of Somerset College by Geiko Louve.

Somerset College is part of the Plymouth University: what a wonderful part of the world to study. Their 2012 graduates showed a polished series of collections which featured more than a few recurring themes: extravagant tailoring, dusky and murky shades, bondage inspired detailing and metres of sheer fabrics. Here are my favourite outfits from each student…

SOMERSET COLLEGE BA fashion 2012 -photo by amelia gregory
Nipa Yamjamnan opened with jewel coloured evening dresses slickly styled with twinkling wine glasses and jewelled arm cuffs.

SOMERSET COLLEGE BA fashion 2012 -photo by amelia gregory
SOMERSET COLLEGE BA fashion 2012 -photo by amelia gregory
SOMERSET COLLEGE BA fashion 2012 -photo by amelia gregory
Rocea Greenway Somersetcollege_by_Geiko Louve
Rocea Greenway by Geiko Louve.

One of the strongest collections was presented by Rocea Greenway, whose Tribal Goddesses wore frilled waterfall bodices and swooshing trains held up by shaped leather strips.

SOMERSET COLLEGE BA fashion 2012 -photo by amelia gregory
SOMERSET COLLEGE BA fashion 2012 -photo by amelia gregory
Georgina Beaton by Adam Pryce
Georgina Beaton by Adam Pryce.

There was beautiful laser cut detailing on the wedding dresses created by fashion textiles graduate Georgina Beaton.

SOMERSET COLLEGE BA fashion 2012 -photo by amelia gregory
SOMERSET COLLEGE BA fashion 2012 -photo by amelia gregory
SOMERSET COLLEGE BA fashion 2012 -photo by amelia gregory
SOMERSET COLLEGE BA fashion 2012 -photo by amelia gregory
Cables were the theme of the day in bold knitted dresses from Sunniva Nybo, who created svelte high belted dresses with folksy details inspired by Catalan styles. One of my favourite collections.

SOMERSET COLLEGE BA fashion 2012 -photo by amelia gregory
SOMERSET COLLEGE BA fashion 2012 -photo by amelia gregory
SOMERSET COLLEGE BA fashion 2012 -photo by amelia gregory
Holly Harmes presented caped and strapped coats created from varied textures – earthy tweeds, shiny satins and ribbed knit.

SOMERSET COLLEGE BA fashion 2012 -photo by amelia gregory
Emma Sothcott also paired popular bondage leather detailing with fluid and structured fabrics.

SOMERSET COLLEGE BA fashion 2012 -photo by amelia gregory
SOMERSET COLLEGE BA fashion 2012 -photo by amelia gregory
Tom Evans presented the only menswear collection – with some splendid illustrated t-shirts.

SOMERSET COLLEGE BA fashion 2012 -photo by amelia gregory
I like the use of an oversized pearl necklace worn over one of Lydia James‘ wedding dresses.

SOMERSET COLLEGE BA fashion 2012 -photo by amelia gregory
Nickie Bush contrasted draped plum and fuchsia fabrics with darker tones, and was also notable for utilising print.

SOMERSET COLLEGE BA fashion 2012 -photo by amelia gregory
SOMERSET COLLEGE BA fashion 2012 -photo by amelia gregory
SOMERSET COLLEGE BA fashion 2012 -photo by amelia gregory
Zeta Thorne showed an elegant series of slate grey and wine red bias cut ruffled evening dresses.

SOMERSET COLLEGE BA fashion 2012 -photo by amelia gregory
Donna Ralph used shades of turquoise and plenty of brown check for her casual jumpsuits and cropped trousers.

SOMERSET COLLEGE BA fashion 2012 -photo by amelia gregory
Katie Oliverio worked with contrasting panels.

SOMERSET COLLEGE BA fashion 2012 -photo by amelia gregory
Connie White combined sheers with yet more leather buckle detailing.

SOMERSET COLLEGE BA fashion 2012 -photo by amelia gregory
SOMERSET COLLEGE BA fashion 2012 -photo by amelia gregory
Intriguing sculptural pocket details and fiery prints by Lucy Symons.

SOMERSET COLLEGE BA fashion 2012 -photo by amelia gregory
SOMERSET COLLEGE BA fashion 2012 -photo by amelia gregory
SOMERSET COLLEGE BA fashion 2012 -photo by amelia gregory
Jade O’Hanlon used shades of khaki, sand and russet to create a sophisticated country inspired collection, given a contemporary feel with lace panelling

SOMERSET COLLEGE BA fashion 2012 -photo by amelia gregory
SOMERSET COLLEGE BA fashion 2012 -photo by amelia gregory
SOMERSET COLLEGE BA fashion 2012 -photo by amelia gregory
SOMERSET COLLEGE BA fashion 2012 -photo by amelia gregory
Lastly, Jennifer Riley showed a confident collection based on a simple egg like silhouette that was inspired by a trip to Milan. All outfits were created entirely from upholstery fabrics. Clever and wearable, she should go far!

Structurally Romantic by Jennifer Riley
Structurally Romantic by Jennifer Riley.

Find out more about Free Range Graduate Shows in my listing here. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,Adam Pryce, ,BA Hons, ,Bondage, ,Catalan, ,Connie White, ,Donna Ralph, ,Emma Sothcott, ,Geiko Louve, ,Georgina Beaton, ,Holly Harmes, ,Jade O’Hanlon, ,Jennifer Riley, ,Katie Oliverio, ,knitwear, ,Lucy Symons, ,Lydia James, ,Nickie Bush, ,Nipa Yamjamnan, ,Rocea Greenway, ,Snarfle Monkey, ,Somerset College, ,Sunniva Nybo, ,tailoring, ,Tom Evans, ,Zeta Thorne

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