Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2014: Fashion Illustrations from the Catwalk

Burberry A/W 2014 by Emma Farrarons

Burberry A/W 2014 by Emma Farrarons.

Since I was unable to attend many of my favourite designer’s shows this season, and indeed had no help in covering the shows (apart from this post, written by the fabulous Maria Papadimitriou) I thought it would be a nice idea to do an open callout for illustrators to depict their favourite outfit from any of the London Fashion Week shows. Here are the results, in no particular order: I am sure you will agree that they are fabulous. Long live fashion illustration!

Michael Van Der Ham A/W 2014 by Antonia Parker

Michael Van Der Ham A/W 2014 by Antonia Parker.

Erdem A/W 2014 by xplusyequals

Erdem A/W 2014 by xplusyequals.

Ashish A/W 2014 by Rebecca May Illustration

Ashish A/W 2014 by Rebecca May Illustration.

Eudon Choi A/W 2014 by Mark Goss

Eudon Choi A/W 2014 by Mark Goss

Eudon Choi A/W 2014 by Mark Goss.

KTZ A/W 2014 by xplusyequals

KTZ A/W 2014 by xplusyequals.

Emilio de la Morena A/W 2014 by Carol Kearns

Emilio de la Morena A/W 2014 by Carol Kearns.

Mary Katrantzou A/W 2014 by Maelle Rajoelisolo

Mary Katrantzou A/W 2014 by Maelle Rajoelisolo

Mary Katrantzou A/W 2014 by Maelle Rajoelisolo.

Daks A/W 2014 by Jenny Robins

Daks A/W 2014 by Jenny Robins.

Sibling A/W 2014 by Calamusyychan

Sibling A/W 2014 by Calamus Ying Ying Chan.

House Of Holland A/W 2014 by Antonia Parker

House Of Holland A/W 2014 by Antonia Parker.

Erdem A/W 2014 by Jane Young

Erdem A/W 2014 by Jane Young.

Burberry A/W 2014 by Mitika Suri

Burberry A/W 2014 by Mitika Suri.

Vivetta A/W 2014 by Briony Jose

Vivetta A/W 2014 by Briony Jose.

Tata Naka A/W 2014 by Isher Dhiman

Tata Naka A/W 2014 by Isher Dhiman.

David Koma A/W 2014 by Gaarte

David Koma A/W 2014 by Gaarte.

Categories ,Antonia Parker, ,Ashish, ,Briony Jose, ,Burberry, ,Calamus Ying Ying Chan, ,Carol Kearns, ,daks, ,Emilio de la Morena, ,Emma Farrarons, ,Erdem, ,Eudon Choi, ,Gaarte, ,House of Holland, ,Isher Dhiman, ,Jane Young, ,Jenny Robins, ,KTZ, ,Maelle Rajoelisolo, ,Maria Papadimitriou, ,Mark Goss, ,Mary Katrantzou, ,Michael van der Ham, ,Mitika Suri, ,Rebecca May Illustration, ,Sibling, ,Tata Naka, ,xplusyequals

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Amelia’s Magazine | Fyodor Golan: London Fashion Week A/W 2013 Catwalk Review

Fyodor Golan A/W 2013 by Jacqueline Valencia
Fyodor Golan A/W 2013 by Jacqueline Valencia.

This season design duo Fyodor Golan put on a circular catwalk show in a stately ballroom of The Savoy Hotel. It was a typically clever collection that combined unusual references and brilliant technical talent with a dose of their inimitable wit.

Fyodor Golan AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Fyodor Golan AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Fyodor Golan AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Fyodor Golan AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Fyodor Golan AW 2013. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Models wore dark lips and simple slicked back hair to showcase a series elegant leather two piece suits and gorgeous baroque dresses befitting the ornate venue, austere throat ties the only nod to jewellery. Gothic black shapes appeared like the imprint of strange creatures on the creamy silk opening dress, and across the peplum of a maxi skirt: paired with a sheer top to ensure a good photo opportunity. Many garments featured wings of fabric that fanned out in front of the chest like the frills found on exotic lizards. A sparkling black mini coat dress with big sleeves was cinched in with a wide waisted belt to give an alternative curvaceous silhouette.

Fyodor Golan AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Fyodor Golan AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Fyodor Golan AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Fyodor Golan A/W 2013 by Gaarte.
Fyodor Golan A/W 2013 by Gaarte.

It took until I viewed one of the illustrations I commissioned from photos to realise that Fyodor Golan had cleverly adapted the iconic Smiley face logo for their golden couture minidress, so subtle was the use, with eyes and mouth melding perfectly into a circular design that fell flatteringly around the hips. Smiley may not have been an obvious choice of brand for the designers to work with but as they explain in their press release ‘Music, like fashion, is an expressive form of creativity. It frees the mind and sets a tone.‘ The familiar icon also appeared embossed onto a big collared leather dress suit, and on giant neon badges that were gifted to front row attendees.

Fyodor Golan AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Fyodor Golan AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Fyodor Golan AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Fyodor Golan AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Fyodor Golan A/W 2013 by Isher Dhiman
Fyodor Golan A/W 2013 by Isher Dhiman.

As the show progressed the colours took a fiery turn, with a series of pleated and folded silk dresses in syrupy orange and bright red amongst my favourite looks. One knee length number featured wrist grazing sleeves and bare shoulders, pleats slit from collarbone to waist and up to the crotch; it was a perfect example of how demure and sexy work best when they exist side by side.

Fyodor Golan AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Fyodor Golan AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Fyodor Golan AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Fyodor Golan AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Interspersed with these was an unusual toffee coloured chequerboard dress with bulging sleeves and another frilled mini dress bearing a striking blue floral pattern that was echoed on a giant decorated plastic plate worn over the face – a cross between a collapsed wide brimmed hat and a gimp mask. It may have seemed an oddly out of place interlude to those unfamiliar with Fydor Golan‘s idiosyncratic catwalk shows, but remember this is the couple who sent out a woman entirely covered in green glitter a few seasons ago. And of course it made for the second great photo opportunity that all catwalk photographers live for (myself included).

Fyodor Golan AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Fyodor Golan AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
There were a couple of points where the collection seemed to take off on a wild tangent (a burnt orange short sleeve knit paired with a glossy skirt seemed somewhat out of place in such glamourous company) but overall this confirmed Fyodor Golan as a talent to watch.

Categories ,A/W 2013, ,Belle de Jour, ,catwalk show, ,Fyodor Golan, ,Gaarte, ,gothic, ,Isher Dhiman, ,Jacqueline Valencia, ,London Fashion Week, ,review, ,Savoy Hotel, ,Smiley, ,Trace Publicity

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Amelia’s Magazine | Heohwan Simulation: London Fashion Week A/W 2013 Catwalk Review

Heohwan Simulation A/W 2013 by Chloe Douglass
Heohwan Simulation A/W 2013 by Chloe Douglass.

We’ve been keeping a close eye on the Korean RCA graduate Hwan Heo since he won the Fashion Scout Merit Award a year ago, and for his third showing at Freemasons’ Hall he built on the beautiful structured minimalism for which his label Heohwan Simulation is known.

Heohwan Simulation AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Heohwan Simulation AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Heohwan Simulation AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Heohwan Simulation AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Heohwan Simulation A/W 2013 by Isher Dhiman
Heohwan Simulation A/W 2013 by Isher Dhiman.

The show opened with a stunning oversized skirt and jacket combination in a beautiful grey fabric, it’s boxy panels layered like petals on a giant metallic flower. This was teamed with a long petrol blue shirt, the simplest of swept back ponytails and panel fronted hi-heeled sandals, creating a look that was pure Heohwan Simulation; simple, brilliantly executed and utterly unique. With the following looks he explored this new layering technique in an A-line skirt and dress, and a wide collared coat. Hwan Heo‘s obsession with the design potential of zips is never far away and this season they were subtlety integrated into all his garments, part functional and part decorative.

Heohwan Simulation AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Heohwan Simulation AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Heohwan Simulation AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Heohwan Simulation AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Heohwan Simulation AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Heohwan Simulation A/W 2013 by Sarah Underwood
Heohwan Simulation A/W 2013 by Sarah Underwood.

The middle part of the collection was dominated by more casual looks, with his round shouldered tops given the sweatshirt treatment, and the addition of abstract rectangular panels in shiny white and blue fabric, which ran top to bottom or slanting across the chest. A painterly collage print containing zingy splashes of turquoise and yellow was splashed across trousers, shirt and blouson jacket. After the relaxed layering of sportswear influenced designs Hwan Heo returned to more tailored shapes with a gorgeous parade of leather panelled outfits. The finale featured three outstanding outfits in a grey horizontal ikat design. How I would love a double breasted coat with winged neck, or a high necked Heohwan Simulation cape…

Heohwan Simulation A/W 2013 by Isher Dhiman
Heohwan Simulation A/W 2013 by Isher Dhiman.

Heohwan Simulation AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Heohwan Simulation AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Heohwan Simulation AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Heohwan Simulation AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Heohwan Simulation AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Heohwan Simulation AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Heohwan Simulation AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Heohwan Simulation AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Heohwan Simulation A/W 2013. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,Chloe Douglass, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Heohwan Simulation, ,Hwan Heo, ,Isher Dhiman, ,Korean, ,Merit Award Winner, ,rca, ,Sarah Underwood

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Amelia’s Magazine | Holly Fulton: London Fashion Week A/W 2013 Catwalk Review

Holly Fulton - lfw a/w 2013 - amelias magazine - Isher Dhiman
Holly Fulton A/W 2013 by Isher Dhiman

The line of freezing cold fashionistas standing outside Me London early on Saturday morning clutched Holly Fulton tickets bearing a giant red cartoon heart, like an I Love NY heart. I was almost surprised not to see an I Love HF shirt in the collection this year as Holly Fulton has embraced high kitsch in a big way, albeit without losing any of her signature sophistication and art deco-esque patterns. The place was so packed I barely managed to see a snatch of side view, so was unable to get any good photos. My catwalk sketches and illustrations will have to do for this article, but do seek out the photographic proof of this collection’s brilliance.

holly fulton - lfw - aw13 - jenny robins - amelias magazine
Holly Fulton A/W 2013 by Jenny Robins.

In September it was roses and pin-ups, this season it’s hearts, tigers, polar bears, calligraphy swirls, shiny feathers and lipsticks. Lots of lipsticks. The A/W 2013 collection celebrated a fierce, fun femininity and it made a big impact that was backed up with a sea of detail. I loved it.

1 Holly Fulton by Isher Dhiman
Holly Fulton A/W 2013 by Isher Dhiman

Holly Fulton sees A/W 2013 mostly in black, white and red, with strong geometric shapes offset by more fluid touches – gauzy sleeves and a giant puffy white skirt featuring a pixelated black and white tiger (tigers seem to be everywhere this season). Even the room was drenched in red light, whilst details such as heart shaped earrings and hearts on the back of jackets gave the collection a distinctly Valentine’s vibe. The models emerged from a giant red circle that reminded me of a Japanese flag, and walked in black shoes down a red catwalk. Guess what colour their lipstick was?

holly fulton 2 - lfw - aw13 - jenny robins - amelias magazine
Holly Fulton A/W 2013 by Jenny Robins.

There were yards of graphic repeating prints that included cultural icons such as cassette tapes, safety pins and ring pull can tops. These throw-away commodities were paired with sumptuous fabrics and clean tailoring to create an intriguing mix. I can’t wait to see how this designer continues to develop.

Categories ,A/W 2013, ,black, ,calligraphy, ,fashion, ,geometric, ,heart, ,Holly Fulton, ,I love NY, ,Isher Dhiman, ,kitsch, ,lfw, ,Lipstick, ,london, ,London Fashion Week, ,me london, ,polar bear, ,Red, ,Tiger

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Amelia’s Magazine | Carlotta Actis Barone: London Fashion Week S/S 2013 Catwalk Review

Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2013 by gaarte
Carlotta Actis Barone S/S 2013 by Gaarte.

Carlotta Actis Barone always makes great use of the catwalk to showcase her zany aesthetic, but last season I felt that the concept had begun to overshadow the garments.

Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2013 September 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2013 September 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2013 September 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2013 September 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Thankfully this season the charismatic designer took a more lighthearted approach – no seal clubbing or nazi references here: instead she sent out a vibrant collection styled with over the top sculpted wigs of frothy orange curls. These were a reference to her source material – the famous opera The Magic Flute, (and the title of this show) – but they also lent a cartoonish air to the proceedings.

Carlotta-Actis-Barone-by-Isabelle-Mattern-iszaa
Carlotta Actis Barone S/S 2013 by Isabelle Mattern.

As if to truly banish all memory of more macabre collections this was described in the show notes as ‘a celebration of happiness, protection, sisterhood and love.’ Aw. It opened with a bevy of ballet dancers twirling in catsuits and boned pill shaped tutus to Mozart.

Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2013 September 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2013 September 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2013 September 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone S/S 2013 by Antonia Parker
Carlotta Actis Barone S/S 2013 by Antonia Parker.

Each season Carlotta Actis Barone chooses lettering which is imprinted on transparent netting and used in bodystockings: this season it was sheet music that was transcribed into a curvy typographic print design. This was the best I have seen it work, as a neat foil to the bold colour palette of the over garments that included zinging tangerine, deep purple, blinding yellow, plum and lime green. A large swirly print was used in panelling on tight high waisted trousers and intersected by binding in lines that emphasised womanly curves. These ‘ribs’ were inspired by cages carried by Papageno in the opera, this time symbolic of freedom. The idea reached its apogee in a stunning strapless boned gown which flared at the hem to create a unique and dramatic silhouette.

Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2013 September 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2013 September 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone S/S 2013. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Flouncy feathers accessorised up-does where wigs failed to do the job; opaque tights (not so summery!) and shoes with spike heels echoed the bold tropical palette. Points accentuated shoulders and sharpened ripples of fabric at waists on tailored two pieces, which were worn with draw-waisted jackets made from plasticised fabrics.

Carlotta Actis Barone SS 2013 September 2012-0080
Carlotta Actis Barone by Claire Kearns
Carlotta Actis Barone S/S 2013 by Claire Kearns.

The show closed with a swirling orange satin frock, perfect for sweeping down a grand staircase. And of course another appearance from the ballet dancers, who leapt down the catwalk with Carlotta in tow for a deep formation curtsey in front of Snarfle, who was wearing the gold coin found in our goodie bags as a necklace.

snarfle at fashion week
Jasper at Carlotta
Snarfle was joined on the front row by his friend Jasper.

Categories ,Antonia Parker, ,Carlotta Actis Barone, ,Claire Kearns, ,Fashion Scout, ,Gaarte, ,Isabelle Mattern, ,lfw, ,Mozart, ,Papageno, ,S/S 2013, ,The Magic Flute

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Amelia’s Magazine | Charlie May: S/S 2014 Preview Interview

Charlie May S/S 2014 by Rebecca May Higgins
Charlie May S/S 2014 by Rebecca May Higgins.

Last season I was most impressed with the new collection from up and coming designer Charlie May: sadly this time around I missed her show at St Martins Lane Hotel. Here the talented young designer talks about her love of minimalism, working with British mills to create bespoke materials, and teaming up with Hudson shoes.

Charlie May S/S 2014 by Claire Kearns
Charlie May S/S 2014 by Claire Kearns.

Where does your love for sleek minimalist designs come from – can you trace it back to any early influences or inspirations?
That’s a tough one – I think coming from a farm where it’s always busy and messy and you have to dress for the mud, you natural want to create the opposite. I’m always inspired by the feeling I get from being in the countryside, there’s a calmness that I like to translate into my collections.
 
Charlie May S:S 2014
Charlie May S:S 2014
The Charlie May girl wears a lot of white and pale colours – any tips for keeping the look fresh and clean?
Every season I plan to use black and I always manage to phase it out! I think it’s got something to do with a clearer cleaner vision and the same goes with personal style. I always feel like I’m dressed better when I’m wearing lighter colours. At the moment I love the look of black shoes with a white look, I think that looks fresh and not overdone.
 
Charlie May S/S 2014 by Slowly The Eggs
Charlie May S/S 2014 by Slowly The Eggs.

I understand you worked closely with mills to create a range of exclusive fabrics this season, what was that process like?
It was really fun and quite eye opening. I’m used to working with exclusively natural materials, so weaving polyester and silk together created something quite unique to me. I think it was a natural step for me to push for more creative fabrics and something that’s not readily available, I’m looking forward to doing it again for AW14.


Charlie May S:S 2014
Charlie May S:S 2014
You used some stunning pearlescent and metallic print fabrics for S/S 2014 – where did you source these from? 
Thank you, it started with working with the mills on the pink metallic woven fabric, and when I saw the butter soft blush foil leather I knew it would be the perfect accompaniment. The collection was meant to be a bit tongue in cheek with references to my youth and the spice girls – so it goes without saying that pink leather was meant to be there! 


Charlie May Dress by Claire Kearns
Charlie May S/S 2014 by Claire Kearns.

How did you get involved with Hudson shoes and what was the process of producing a limited edition shoe? where can fans buy a pair?
I met Hudson through my blog, Girl a la Mode. We quickly got talking about collaborating on a shoe for my SS14! I love their classic, elegant brogues and boots and knew they’d be the perfect choice. They will be a limited edition, available to buy through my site (www.Charlie-May.co.uk) from January. 
 
Charlie May S:S 2014
Charlie May S:S 2014
What are your aspirations for the coming year?
I hope to keep growing as I am and developing the collections and brand image, I’m excited to develop knitwear for AW14 too. 

Categories ,Charlie May, ,Claire Kearns, ,Girl a la Mode, ,hudson, ,interview, ,London Fashion Week, ,Rebecca May Higgins, ,S/S 2014, ,Slowly the Eggs, ,St Martins Lane Hotel

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Amelia’s Magazine | Dans La Vie: London Fashion Week S/S 2013 Catwalk Review

Dans La Vie S/S 2013 by Jenny Robins
Dans La Vie S/S 2013 by Jenny Robins.

And so for London Fashion Week S/S 2013, which I am covering in a reduced capacity this season due to Snarfle demands: he will intermittently be joining me at the shows and no doubt vocalising his opinions. Our first show of Friday was Dans La Vie by Rira Sugawara at Fashion Scout, and I was pleased to find that Snarfle was perky and very interested in his first front row experience, particularly the flashing lights of the photographers at the end of the catwalk.

Dans La Vie S/S 2013 by Gareth A Hopkins
Dans La Vie S/S 2013 by Gareth A Hopkins.

Dans La Vie SS 2013 September 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Dans La Vie SS 2013 September 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Dans La Vie SS 2013 September 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Dans La Vie SS 2013 September 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Dans La Vie S/S 2013 by Jenny Robins
Dans La Vie S/S 2013 by Jenny Robins
Dans La Vie S/S 2013 by Jenny Robins.

For her Moving Print Bodies collection the Japanese designer used her signature plasticised printed fabrics to create a range of dramatic silhouettes in unusual colour combinations of mossy greens, pastel blues, mustard, blood red and teal. Gingham and python happily co-existed with gigantic bows and pictorial prints inspired by traditional Japanese gods. Waists were a big feature, cinched in with wide belts and exaggerated with tulip skirts and widened shoulders. The theme went somewhat haywire with the appearance of printed mesh catsuits that had panels across crotch and thighs in the style of Pam Hogg.

Dans La Vie SS 2013 September 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Dans La Vie SS 2013 September 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Dans La Vie SS 2013 September 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Dans La Vie S/S 2013. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Fantastical make up was inspired by the patterns of the fabric…. blackened eyes topped with chequerboard foreheads or square blocks smeared across cheek and chins. For the finale Sugawara sent out my favourite look: a searing azure blue swing skirted dress with bodice frills spiked over the face in great fans like the frilled neck of a lizard.

Dans La Vie SS 2013 September 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Dans La Vie S/S 2013 by Deborah Moon
Dans La Vie S/S 2013 by Deborah Moon.

Dans La Vie has a very strong signature look but this season if felt a bit as if Sugawara was trying to shoehorn in as many of the prevailing trends as possible. The result? Individual pieces worked well but the collection as a whole came across as a bit of a style mish mash. Still, Snarfle gave it the thumbs up, so who am I to judge? Watch the catwalk show here:

Categories ,Dans La Vie, ,Deborah Moon, ,Fashion Scout, ,Gareth A Hopkins, ,London Fashion Week, ,Moving Print Bodies, ,Pam Hogg, ,Rira Sugawara, ,S/S 2013, ,Snarfle

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Amelia’s Magazine | Bernard Chandran A/W 09

After a tiring day of show-hopping, malady hospital the fashion set descended on the Science Museumfor the Bernard Chandran A/W 09 show. Chandran, generic web of Malaysian orgin, has wowed the fashion set with his angular, futuristic pieces for a couple of seasons now. Estelle is a keen follower, she wore not one but two of his creations at the Grammy’s last year, shunning a host of established powerhouse designers.

With that acolade in mind, it was nice to see what all the fuss was about. Chandran has a vision – he isn’t a one trick pony, but a sustainable and creative mind with a devil-may-care attitude and an adventurous yet playful nature. The constraints of the female form are thrown out of the window with his wild cuts and angular shapes, enhancing the female silhouette.

bernard-chandran-1.jpg

bernard-chandran-2.jpg

The lights dimmed, and the banging started. A little too loud for my delicate ears, but a thudding baseline heightened the drama and excitement and made pulses race. One by one, sculpted silhouettes bounded down the runway to the electro-funk beat, fusing the eccentricity of Yohji Yamamoto, with the space age vision of Jacqueline Pearce’s Servalan in Blake’s 7 of the late 1970′s.

These shapes included shift dresses with angular sleeves; simple coats with oversized square lapels; capes with voluminous sleeves and high necklines, and tailored dresses with highly exaggerated hollow sleeves and necks. PVC was married with cotton and silk to create yet more contrasts, and bright reds and oranges give us hope that this Winter won’t be so bad after all.

bernard-chandran-3.jpg

bernard-chandran-4.jpg

Chandran is a genius of construction – clear from dresses made up of panel after panel intricately fused together to make solid, grown-up garments. It’s easy to see why he’s has already received the equivalent of a knighthood in Malaysia for his outstanding contribution to Asian fashion, and is well ahead in the stakes after only a handful of seasons.

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Amelia’s Magazine | An Interview with Jewellery Designer Kate Sibley, talking about her ‘Future Jewellery’ Collection

Kate Sibley Jewellery by Laura Griffin
Kate Sibley Jewellery by Laura Griffin

When I first looked at images of Kate Sibley’s stone ‘paper’ Future Jewellery I was reminded of a gorgeous book I fell in love with a few years ago called ‘The Paper Jewelry Collection: Easy to wear and ready to make pop out artwear’. It features beautiful patterns printed on variously shaped paper which you can remove from the book and fold in different ways to create eye catching jewellery pieces. I still have this book and, like Kate Sibley’s jewellery, find it hugely inspiring. Both push boundaries in terms of what form jewellery pieces can have and what materials they are made of – the latter being especially crucial at the moment in terms of sustainability. The limited edition pieces by Kate Sibley are transitory and deliberately have a short lifespan, agreeing with the fast fashion trend. Yet the jewellery, made from non-toxic stone ‘paper’, can be infinitely recycled or safely composted at the end of its life, leaving no negative imprint on the environment. Here Kate Sibley shares with us a little about the context, inspirations and processes behind her origami-like jewellery collection.

Kate Sibley Jewellery Necklaces group

You started out as a graphic designer, how did you become interested in jewellery design specifically and decide to do an MA at Central Saint Martins?
My undergraduate degree was in eco design and design studies at Goldsmiths College where my final piece was in fact a jewellery collection. The graphics route was purely by chance and a result of the experience I gained on work placements while still at university. It became a logical career path upon graduation as it gave me the opportunity to make money as a practicing designer. After several years of full time employment I took the step to become a freelance graphic designer which enabled me to focus more on other creative interests including my jewellery. I then applied to continue my studies at Central St Martins as it would provide me with a network of mentors and place me in a stimulating environment to further develop my ideas.

Kate Sibley Necklace
Kate Sibley Necklace
How does your graphic design background influence your jewellery collections?
My decision to work with paper for my latest collection was born out of my desire to question the fast fashion industry and explore sustainable materials and systems. After a year of intensive materials research the logical path took me to the stone paper I use today. Having a deep knowledge of graphics and print enabled me to really explore a unique approach to my jewellery where I had very few restrictions. I could explore, colour, tone, pattern and form in a way that you can’t with traditional jewellery making processes. It also had its problems as it makes it incredibly hard to make decisions when your options are endless so you need to be confident in your ideas and follow them through with conviction.

Kate Sibley Jewellery by Isher Dhiman
Kate Sibley Jewellery by Isher Dhiman

Could you tell us a bit more about the ‘Cradle to Cradle’ theory and closed loop systems and the influence they’ve had on your work?
The term Cradle to Cradle refers to a designed system where commercial productivity and sustainability can co-exist and benefit one another. This is achieved by ensuring that products and materials are designed to fit onto a biological and/or a technical system – closed loop. A biological system refers to materials that can harmlessly decompose and return to the earth providing nourishment rather than toxic landfill, whereas a technical system is one based on materials being reprocessed repeatedly without degradation or any loss in quality. Cradle to Cradle has influenced my work greatly. What I like is that it provides a rational and practical solution to a sustainable future whilst celebrating abundance and creativity. Rather than the consumer being half-heartedly encouraged to change their consumer behavior, the ball is firmly in the court of designers and manufacturers to design better products. It is a challenge, but designers like myself thrive on creative challenges.
My current collection is designed with materials that fit within both a biological and a technical cycle.

Kate Sibley Pin
Where do you source the paper from which your current collection is made?
I source the paper from a supplier in Europe as it is not available in the UK.

v
Kate Sibley Jewellery by Polly Stopforth

Where did you learn to fold so beautifully and by what process do you apply the eye catching patterns and colours on the pieces?
Strangely I’ve always had a fascination with folding paper. I think it’s something to do with pushing a material to its limits and really exploring it’s potential. The techniques and folds I’ve used to produce this collection have all been developed by myself as a way to overcome design issues and to form the shapes and structures I wanted. The colour and patterns are screen printed by myself.

Kate Sibley Necklace
You are the co-director of the design studio Sibley Grove with your husband Jeremy Grove. How do the other design disciplines the studio is involved in impact your jewellery work? Is working with diverse worlds helping your creative juices?
Running the design studio alongside developing my jewellery collections is hard work, but I enjoy it as I thrive on being busy and productive. We work across several disciplines, interior design, architecture, graphics and product, and I find all of these areas inspire my jewellery because they expose me to materials and processes I might not otherwise come across. The jewellery also positively influences the rest of the work our studio does, because it is a platform to be more experimental and try new things, but on a smaller scale.

Kate Sibley Future Jewellery Necklace by Shy Illustrations
Kate Sibley Future Jewellery Necklace by Shy Illustrations

In terms of fashion and jewellery design what are your inspirations?
My inspirations for this collection have mainly come from the art deco architecture of downtown Manhattan, where I am particularly attracted to the repeat patterns that are made with tiling, patterns cast into building facades and the forms made by railings and ironwork. In general though, my inspirations can come from anywhere, from the detailing on a train seat, to the beauty of an insects wing.

Kate Sibley Earrings
Kate Sibley Earrings
Kate Sibley Earrings
For your near future collections do you plan to explore more folding techniques and continue the use of ‘paper’ or can you reveal some more sustainable materials you have in mind using?
This collection of earrings will evolve into other shapes and colours, which will be released each fashion season, but all future pieces will fit into the universal earring clasp. I am interested in exploring other ways of printing on and texturing the surface of the paper material, and feel there is great potential to explore this further. I intend for the collection to grow and to release necklaces, bangles and brooches in the future. I am always researching new and interesting materials and have a growing collection which I will certainly experiment with in the future.

Kate Sibley Jewellery by Katie Allen
Kate Sibley Jewellery by Katie Allen

How could one become the owner of one of your beautiful pieces?
At the moment I am accepting commissions to produce bespoke pieces of any scale. This specific collection will be launched for sale in the new year and you will be able to buy pieces through a number of galleries and shops. You can contact us through our website www.sibleygrove.com, or at studio@sibleygrove.com to be added to our mailing list for further updates, or to talk about commissioning possibilities.

Categories ,Central Saint Martins, ,colour, ,Cradle to Cradle, ,Designer’s Block, ,Earrings, ,Eco-Design, ,fashion, ,Fast Fashion, ,Folding, ,geometric, ,Gold Leaf, ,goldsmiths, ,Graphic Design, ,Isher Dhiman, ,jewellery, ,Jewellery Collection, ,Kate Sibley, ,Katie Allen, ,Laura Griffin, ,Maria Papadimitriou, ,Necklaces, ,origami, ,paper, ,pattern, ,Polly Stopforth, ,Printing, ,screenprinting, ,Shy Illustrations, ,Sibley Grove, ,Stone Paper, ,Sustainable Fashion, ,Sustainable Materilas

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Amelia’s Magazine | An interview with Kelly Moore, designer of Kelly Moore SLR Camera Handbags

kelly moore SLR camera handbag
I always head down to London Fashion Week with my SLR in a scraggy looking shoulder bag: partly because I want it to be inconspicuous, and partly because I don’t want to lug my ‘real’ camera bag around the shows. No more! A few weeks ago photographer and designer Kelly Moore sent me one of her stylish SLR camera handbags (above) to try out, and I can’t wait to hit A/W 2013 with it on my back.

kelly moore camera handbags portrait
Kelly Moore is a photographer who decided to create a bag range when she realised that there was a yawning great gap in the market. “We carry very expensive gear, we don’t want to say ‘Come steal me!’” she explains in this video interview. Photographers and bloggers in the USA have understandably gone crazy for the Kelly Moore range: from the capacious Libby bag to the more petite Posey there is something to please every kind of photographer, with even a style for men.


Here’s a video of Kelly Moore describing the design and functions of the Chapel bag that I shall be road-testing very soon. I absolutely love that she also explains how it can be used as a nappy changing bag as well: I plan to make full use of it’s multi function. You can view handy videos describing all of the camera handbags right here. I asked Kelly Moore a few questions:

I love your bag designs! What were you looking at as inspiration when you first started to design bags? I presume it was other designer handbags as well as the usual camera bags!
My original inspiration was the sheer fact that the product I wanted didn’t exist! As a photographer, I wanted to carry my gear with me, both on professional shoots as well as in my everyday life, and my only option was black and boring! From there, my inspiration came first from the function the bag had to serve, and then I designed a beautiful, stylish bag to fit that function. Of course, I look to my favorite handbag lines for inspiration, but it also comes from clothing, magazines, photography and nature. Inspiration is everywhere!

Kelly Moore Chapel Camera Handbag by Veronica Rowlands
Kelly Moore Chapel Camera Handbag by Veronica Rowlands.

Your bags are made from very high quality man-made leather rather than real leather, what was the decision behind this?
I wanted our bags to be accessible to the everyday woman. As much as I love genuine leather, the price point would be double (or more) what our bags cost now, and I didn’t want to enter the marketplace being unattainable to the majority of people. Also, our manmade materials are low maintenance and water resistant. This is a definite plus when you are carrying around expensive gear!


This atmospheric video was shot by film maker Joshua Smith, using glass shards held over the lens to give a vintage feel.

My Chapel bag contains a removable cushioned interior – what prompted this design detail?
This is a new feature that we’ve added in the last 6 months, and I couldn’t be more excited about it. There are several benefits to the removable basket. It makes our bags even more adaptable to someone who may not want to use it as a camera bag (although, I’ve found that even when I’m not carrying gear, I love the organization that the basket gives!) You can remove the basket and the interior of the bag has no velcro. It also makes it easier to load your gear or whatever you’d like to carry, and then insert it into the bag. The basket now allows you to have space on either side to store magazines, Ipad and other large objects.  

Kelly Moore Camera Handbag 2 Sues
Kelly Moore 2 Sues Camera Handbag.

Where are the bags made, and how did you set about going into product production when you began your career in an entirely different area?
Our bags are designed here in the United States, manufactured in China, and our fulfillment warehouse is located here in the states as well. When I began the process of having these bags made, I was quite literally clueless. I was very fortunate to have come in contact with amazing people who where very familiar with this process to guide me along the way. Of course, when you begin something new like this, it’s always scary, and there are many learning curves along the way. I’ve made a lot of mistakes (very expensive ones!), but those mistakes have shaped who we are as a company today, and I’m thankful for the lessons learned through this whole process. We are always evolving to be a better company, from our customer service to the quality of our bags, and this is something you can learn only by experience.

Kelly Moore Riva Camera Handbag by Ap Bestari
Kelly Moore Riva Camera Handbag by Ap Bestari.

Your bags are named for your family: how do you juggle being a mother, a photographer and an entrepreneur? Any tips?
Very carefully!! I used to be a workaholic, but I can now happily say I’m in remission :) My family time and personal time are extremely important to me, so my priority begins there, and I make everything else work around that. If you do the opposite and make your family fit into your work life, your personal life always suffers. I think the secret that I’ve learned is that I have to trust other people to help me get things done. I can’t do it all myself, so I don’t even try! I’ve have a fabulous team of employes that make my life manageable. From customer service and product fulfillment to web design and managing bag production, I trust my team, and let them do what they are good at. Learning to delegate to others who are good at what they do has been the key to my life NOT being chaotic!

Kelly Moore B-Hobo Camera Handbag
Kelly Moore B-Hobo Camera Handbag.

Have you been surprised by the reaction to your designs since you launched in 2009? What has been the highlight of creating Kelly Moore bags so far?
It’s hard to say if I’ve been surprised or not. Of course, when you begin any new venture, your hope is that people will love your product and it will succeed, but I knew there was no assurance of this. I think I can say that I’ve been overjoyed at the reception we have gotten in both the photography world and beyond. I’m thankful everyday for the success we are seeing around the globe, and I try to never take it for granted. As with anything, we are not promised tomorrow, so I enjoy every day, and hope and pray that we can continue to bring new and exciting products that our customers will love and that will keep them coming back!

Kelly Moore Camera Handbags by Isher Dhiman
Kelly Moore Camera Handbags by Isher Dhiman.

What next for Kelly Moore
Who knows!! At this time, we are in the process of opening our Kelly Moore Bag offices and retail space here in my home town. We have run this business from our home for the past 3 years, so it’s very exciting to be moving into a beautiful new space. Of course, we have several new bags in the making, but that’s top secret, so I can’t tell you about that! 

UK based customers can buy a Kelly More Camera Handbag here. Can’t wait to try mine out, thankyou Kelly!

Categories ,Ap Bestari, ,Camera Bags, ,Camera Handbags, ,camerahandbags.co.uk, ,Chapel, ,China, ,Isher Dhiman, ,Joshua Smith, ,Kelly Moore, ,leather, ,Libby, ,London Fashion Week, ,Man-made Leather, ,Posey, ,SLR, ,United States, ,Veronica Rowlands

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