Amelia’s Magazine | KTZ: London Fashion Week S/S 2013 Catwalk Review


KTZ S/S 2013 by Krister Selin

After the Felder Felder show I trekked from Somerset House to Goldsmith’s Hall over by St Paul’s to catch PPQ. As is standard, the PPQ show was massively oversubscribed and with the queue already blocking off streets I didn’t even bother to be turned away with my standing ticket. There was no way I was going to risk missing the mighty KTZ.


KTZ S/S 2013 by Gabriel Ayala

So I legged it to Somerset House like some sort of deranged fashion yo-yo and got seated for the action. Lida from The First to Know who handles KTZ‘s PR looked impeccable in one of their A/W 2012 creations with oversized gold religious emblems. As I waited for the show to start I fantasised about what we might see this season. From 1980s Memphis design to religion, via Africa, it’s been an ever exciting journey with Kokon to Zai and I couldn’t wait to see what they’d crafted this season.


All photography by Matt Bramford

When the pounding music started and the first model appeared I knew instantly that I wasn’t going to be disappointed. Slightly androgynous with a slicked back hair-do and loose pony tail that swished as she marched, the model wore a cropped lace shirt and intricate capri pants with cutaway details, accessorised with oversized pearl earrings and clutch bag. KTZ is one of those rare shows where the audience whoop and cheer at every look.


KTZ S/S 2013 by Krister Selin

The KTZ aesthetic came shortly afterwards, with a model sporting a baseball cap in an intriguing lace full-sleeve dress and a face mask akin to something worn by a very, very fashionable surgeon.

The aesthetic structure of each garment had been inspired by the intricate delicacies of Art Nouveau patterns, in particular William Morris; classic cuts transformed by the whiplash motifs of the era and the fluid, organic lines that differentiate Art Nouveau from other movements. These were expertly applied to the fronts of corseted frocks and the hemlines of short, circular skirts.

The colour black featured heavily as is pretty standard at a KTZ show – translucent tops with thick, black Art Nouveau-inspired embellishments and thigh-high boots in patent leather, teamed the KTZ with huge gold logo accessories, such as an epic bracelet that enveloped the full length of a model’s arm.

Now I would normally say that if you’re a fan of cutesy florals on feminine dresses, steer well clear of KTZ. While that’s still strictly true of this fantasy label, we were then treated to some feminine shapes with sculpted upper halves and playful bulbous skirts. It allowed me to think that this might almost be wearable by people other than Rihanna and Will.i.am.


KTZ S/S 2013 by Gabriel Ayala

Welcomed bursts of colour began to fill the catwalk: a peach tone not seen since 1980s bridesmaids dresses that worked effortlessly with this monochrome-heavy collection, and an effervescent green number for good measure seemed a bit of an odd choice, but if KTZ ever become predictable I’ll stop bloody going.

The detail, craftsmanship and translation of a theme was simply awe-inspiring and rendered me breathless in under 12 minutes – a sensation I sadly haven’t experienced in a while.

Long may KTZ reign!

Categories ,1980s, ,Art Nouveau, ,Bridesmaids, ,Gabriel Ayala, ,Harajuku girls, ,Kokon To Zai, ,Krister Selin, ,KTZ, ,lace, ,London Fashion Week, ,Matt Bramford, ,Peach, ,Pearlescent, ,S/S 2013, ,Somerset House, ,SS13, ,William Morris, ,Womenswear

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Amelia’s Magazine | Lace – Grandma’s Curtains or Fabulous Fashion?

large_Caitlin_Rose

Illustrations by Emma Black

In a genre steeped in tradition, seek Caitlin Rose springs forth like a breath of fresh air. Stripped down to the sweetest bare essentials, her voice rings clear and true, especially when she sings (at times wistfully, often defiantly) about heartbreak and failed relationships. Case in point: Learning To Ride, the opening track of her new album Own Side Now paints a painfully raw snapshot of a first love; “When I was young I used to ride the wild ones, they were lots of fun but they almost took my life. Now all I need is a simple steed, to take me where I need without putting up a fight.”

But while she is a very much a modern girl; smart, opinionated and droll, she is never mocking of her beloved Country music. “I hate a lot of words” she declares in a short video bio of her; eyes shaded by Ray Bans as she stands in front of her place of work, Bobby’s Dairy Dip. She runs through the words in question…. I hate the word “Indie”, and I hate the word ‘Contemporary’…. I hate a lot of words, but ‘Country’s’ a word that I actually really like”.

The popularity of her debut album, “Own Side Now” has meant that a few one off dates have morphed into a full European tour and she draws her summer of English festival appearances to a close with a performance at The End Of The Road Festival on September 11th.

What can we expect from your new album, Own Side Now? Am I right in thinking that it is going to be less acoustic than your debut EP?
It’s a full band record. There’s a pretty stripped down cut of Sinful Wishing Well though.

How did you make your first start into the Nashville music scene? Can you remember your first gig?
My first show was at a pool party and I was 16. I was too nervous to finish any of the songs.
For a time after that I opened shows for my then-boyfriend’s angry suburban punk band. We broke up and he got all the friends so I had to make new ones. Luckily I met some cool people and a few thought I was a decent songwriter. I used to play a dive called the Springwater and whatever anyone else would throw at me. I wasn’t 21 so I took what I could get.

Country music has passed so much of Britian by, it’s almost criminal. If you were to hand pick a record collection for someone who knew nothing about country music, what records would you put in?
How big? I’d suggest a Merle Haggard Greatest Hits album, some Loretta Lynn, John Prine’s first two albums. Marty Robbin’s Gunfighter Ballads. “Our Mother the Mountain” by Townes Van Zandt.
Guy Clark’s “Old No 1″. As much George Jones as possible. Gram Parsons “GP”. Any of Dolly’s old records. Some essential Patsy Cline. “Hank Williams sings Kaw-Liga and other Funny Songs” is a good one too. Some Carter Family. The Louvin Brother’s “Satan is Real” and throw in a couple of Linda Ronstadt’s early records for appropriate country rock measure. Early Tanya Tucker is good too.
I could go on, but that’s already a lot. Country music’s all about the song. If you see a record and you think you might like it, buy it (especially if it’s cheap) and figure out your favorite song. That’s the funnest part.

Can you tell us 5 things that we don’t know about Caitlin Rose?
I sleep on cowboy sheets.

I collect talismans and other people’s I.D.’s.

I’m no good with numbers.

I’m a terrible cook.

I’ve had 5 cavities.

Your songs are already known for being pretty straight talking; are you as straight talking in your day to day life?
Not as much as I would like to be.

If Amelia’s Magazine were to come visit you in Nashville (if you would have us!), what would we get up to?
I’d show you the Country Music Hall of Fame, Webb Pierce’s guitar shaped swimming pool and Dino’s Bar & Grill on Gallatin Road. I’ve also been hearing a lot about amateur wrestling matches held at a hotel downtown, that sound pretty intriguing.

You have already had some pretty major accomplishments in your career; what have been some of the highlights so far for you?
Bonnaroo and the review in German Rolling Stone were both exciting.

I loved the YouTube video of you by Seth Graves; do you still work at Bobbys Dairy Dip? It would be so cool if you do, but I’m thinking that with your music career going stratospheric it’s left little time for anything else.
No, but I miss it a lot, especially the sweet potato fries.

What would you like to have achieved by the time you are 30? (professionally, and personally)?
A few really good albums, a solid band and the cover of the Rolling Stone.
Also, to be completely free of anything resembling a zit or a pimple for the rest of my life. Kids are cool too.

Am I the first person to tell you that your songs give me goose bumps? (I write this in a non-creepy way, I promise you!)
If you’re worried about sounding creepy then I’m worried about sounding arrogant by saying that you’re not the first.


Illustrations by Emma Block

In a genre steeped in tradition, information pills Caitlin Rose springs forth like a breath of fresh air. Stripped down to the sweetest bare essentials, pills her voice rings clear and true, viagra 60mg especially when she sings (at times wistfully, often defiantly) about heartbreak and failed relationships. Case in point: Learning To Ride, the opening track of her new album Own Side Now paints a painfully raw snapshot of a first love; “When I was young I used to ride the wild ones, they were lots of fun but they almost took my life. Now all I need is a simple steed, to take me where I need without putting up a fight.”

But while she is a very much a modern girl; smart, opinionated and droll, she is never mocking of her beloved Country music. “I hate a lot of words” she declares in a short video bio of her; eyes shaded by Ray Bans as she stands in front of her place of work, Bobby’s Dairy Dip. She runs through the words in question…. I hate the word “Indie”, and I hate the word ‘Contemporary’…. I hate a lot of words, but ‘Country’s’ a word that I actually really like”.

The popularity of her debut album, “Own Side Now” has meant that a few one off dates have morphed into a full European tour and she draws her summer of English festival appearances to a close with a performance at The End Of The Road Festival on September 11th.

What can we expect from your new album, Own Side Now? Am I right in thinking that it is going to be less acoustic than your debut EP?
It’s a full band record. There’s a pretty stripped down cut of Sinful Wishing Well though.

How did you make your first start into the Nashville music scene? Can you remember your first gig?
My first show was at a pool party and I was 16. I was too nervous to finish any of the songs.
For a time after that I opened shows for my then-boyfriend’s angry suburban punk band. We broke up and he got all the friends so I had to make new ones. Luckily I met some cool people and a few thought I was a decent songwriter. I used to play a dive called the Springwater and whatever anyone else would throw at me. I wasn’t 21 so I took what I could get.

Country music has passed so much of Britian by, it’s almost criminal. If you were to hand pick a record collection for someone who knew nothing about country music, what records would you put in?
How big? I’d suggest a Merle Haggard Greatest Hits album, some Loretta Lynn, John Prine’s first two albums. Marty Robbin’s Gunfighter Ballads. “Our Mother the Mountain” by Townes Van Zandt.
Guy Clark’s “Old No 1″. As much George Jones as possible. Gram Parsons “GP”. Any of Dolly’s old records. Some essential Patsy Cline. “Hank Williams sings Kaw-Liga and other Funny Songs” is a good one too. Some Carter Family. The Louvin Brother’s “Satan is Real” and throw in a couple of Linda Ronstadt’s early records for appropriate country rock measure. Early Tanya Tucker is good too.
I could go on, but that’s already a lot. Country music’s all about the song. If you see a record and you think you might like it, buy it (especially if it’s cheap) and figure out your favorite song. That’s the funnest part.

Can you tell us 5 things that we don’t know about Caitlin Rose?
I sleep on cowboy sheets.

I collect talismans and other people’s I.D.’s.

I’m no good with numbers.

I’m a terrible cook.

I’ve had 5 cavities.

Your songs are already known for being pretty straight talking; are you as straight talking in your day to day life?
Not as much as I would like to be.

If Amelia’s Magazine were to come visit you in Nashville (if you would have us!), what would we get up to?
I’d show you the Country Music Hall of Fame, Webb Pierce’s guitar shaped swimming pool and Dino’s Bar & Grill on Gallatin Road. I’ve also been hearing a lot about amateur wrestling matches held at a hotel downtown, that sound pretty intriguing.

You have already had some pretty major accomplishments in your career; what have been some of the highlights so far for you?
Bonnaroo and the review in German Rolling Stone were both exciting.

I loved the YouTube video of you by Seth Graves; do you still work at Bobbys Dairy Dip? It would be so cool if you do, but I’m thinking that with your music career going stratospheric it’s left little time for anything else.
No, but I miss it a lot, especially the sweet potato fries.

What would you like to have achieved by the time you are 30? (professionally, and personally)?
A few really good albums, a solid band and the cover of the Rolling Stone.
Also, to be completely free of anything resembling a zit or a pimple for the rest of my life. Kids are cool too.

Am I the first person to tell you that your songs give me goose bumps? (I write this in a non-creepy way, I promise you!)
If you’re worried about sounding creepy then I’m worried about sounding arrogant by saying that you’re not the first.


Illustrations by Emma Block

In a genre steeped in tradition, thumb Caitlin Rose springs forth like a breath of fresh air. Stripped down to the sweetest bare essentials, see her voice rings clear and true, viagra especially when she sings (at times wistfully, often defiantly) about heartbreak and failed relationships. Case in point: Learning To Ride, the opening track of her new album Own Side Now paints a painfully raw snapshot of a first love; “When I was young I used to ride the wild ones, they were lots of fun but they almost took my life. Now all I need is a simple steed, to take me where I need without putting up a fight.”

But while she is a very much a modern girl; smart, opinionated and droll, she is never mocking of her beloved Country music. “I hate a lot of words” she declares in a short video bio of her; eyes shaded by Ray Bans as she stands in front of her place of work, Bobby’s Dairy Dip. She runs through the words in question…. I hate the word “Indie”, and I hate the word ‘Contemporary’…. I hate a lot of words, but ‘Country’s’ a word that I actually really like”.

The popularity of her debut album, Own Side Now has meant that a few one off dates have morphed into a full European tour and she draws her summer of English festival appearances to a close with a performance at The End Of The Road Festival on September 11th.

What can we expect from your new album, Own Side Now? Am I right in thinking that it is going to be less acoustic than your debut EP?
It’s a full band record. There’s a pretty stripped down cut of Sinful Wishing Well though.

How did you make your first start into the Nashville music scene? Can you remember your first gig?
My first show was at a pool party and I was 16. I was too nervous to finish any of the songs.
For a time after that I opened shows for my then-boyfriend’s angry suburban punk band. We broke up and he got all the friends so I had to make new ones. Luckily I met some cool people and a few thought I was a decent songwriter. I used to play a dive called the Springwater and whatever anyone else would throw at me. I wasn’t 21 so I took what I could get.

Country music has passed so much of Britian by, it’s almost criminal. If you were to hand pick a record collection for someone who knew nothing about country music, what records would you put in?
How big? I’d suggest a Merle Haggard Greatest Hits album, some Loretta Lynn, John Prine’s first two albums. Marty Robbin’s Gunfighter Ballads. “Our Mother the Mountain” by Townes Van Zandt.
Guy Clark’s “Old No 1″. As much George Jones as possible. Gram Parsons “GP”. Any of Dolly’s old records. Some essential Patsy Cline. “Hank Williams sings Kaw-Liga and other Funny Songs” is a good one too. Some Carter Family. The Louvin Brother’s “Satan is Real” and throw in a couple of Linda Ronstadt’s early records for appropriate country rock measure. Early Tanya Tucker is good too.
I could go on, but that’s already a lot. Country music’s all about the song. If you see a record and you think you might like it, buy it (especially if it’s cheap) and figure out your favorite song. That’s the funnest part.

Can you tell us 5 things that we don’t know about Caitlin Rose?
I sleep on cowboy sheets.

I collect talismans and other people’s I.D.’s.

I’m no good with numbers.

I’m a terrible cook.

I’ve had 5 cavities.

Your songs are already known for being pretty straight talking; are you as straight talking in your day to day life?
Not as much as I would like to be.

If Amelia’s Magazine were to come visit you in Nashville (if you would have us!), what would we get up to?
I’d show you the Country Music Hall of Fame, Webb Pierce’s guitar shaped swimming pool and Dino’s Bar & Grill on Gallatin Road. I’ve also been hearing a lot about amateur wrestling matches held at a hotel downtown, that sound pretty intriguing.

You have already had some pretty major accomplishments in your career; what have been some of the highlights so far for you?
Bonnaroo and the review in German Rolling Stone were both exciting.

I loved the YouTube video of you by Seth Graves; do you still work at Bobbys Dairy Dip? It would be so cool if you do, but I’m thinking that with your music career going stratospheric it’s left little time for anything else.
No, but I miss it a lot, especially the sweet potato fries.

What would you like to have achieved by the time you are 30? (professionally, and personally)?
A few really good albums, a solid band and the cover of the Rolling Stone.
Also, to be completely free of anything resembling a zit or a pimple for the rest of my life. Kids are cool too.

Am I the first person to tell you that your songs give me goose bumps? (I write this in a non-creepy way, I promise you!)
If you’re worried about sounding creepy then I’m worried about sounding arrogant by saying that you’re not the first.


Illustrations by Emma Block

In a genre steeped in tradition, viagra approved Caitlin Rose springs forth like a breath of fresh air. Stripped down to the sweetest bare essentials, her voice rings clear and true, especially when she sings (at times wistfully, often defiantly) about heartbreak and failed relationships. Case in point: Learning To Ride, the opening track of her new album Own Side Now paints a painfully raw snapshot of a first love; “When I was young I used to ride the wild ones, they were lots of fun but they almost took my life. Now all I need is a simple steed, to take me where I need without putting up a fight.”

But while she is a very much a modern girl; smart, opinionated and droll, she is never mocking of her beloved Country music. “I hate a lot of words” she declares in a short video bio of her; eyes shaded by Ray Bans as she stands in front of her place of work, Bobby’s Dairy Dip. She runs through the words in question…. I hate the word “Indie”, and I hate the word ‘Contemporary’…. I hate a lot of words, but ‘Country’s’ a word that I actually really like”.

The popularity of her debut album, Own Side Now has meant that a few one off dates have morphed into a full European tour and she draws her summer of English festival appearances to a close with a performance at The End Of The Road Festival on September 11th.

What can we expect from your new album, Own Side Now? Am I right in thinking that it is going to be less acoustic than your debut EP?
It’s a full band record. There’s a pretty stripped down cut of Sinful Wishing Well though.

How did you make your first start into the Nashville music scene? Can you remember your first gig?
My first show was at a pool party and I was 16. I was too nervous to finish any of the songs.
For a time after that I opened shows for my then-boyfriend’s angry suburban punk band. We broke up and he got all the friends so I had to make new ones. Luckily I met some cool people and a few thought I was a decent songwriter. I used to play a dive called the Springwater and whatever anyone else would throw at me. I wasn’t 21 so I took what I could get.

Country music has passed so much of Britian by, it’s almost criminal. If you were to hand pick a record collection for someone who knew nothing about country music, what records would you put in?
How big? I’d suggest a Merle Haggard Greatest Hits album, some Loretta Lynn, John Prine’s first two albums. Marty Robbin’s Gunfighter Ballads. “Our Mother the Mountain” by Townes Van Zandt.
Guy Clark’s “Old No 1″. As much George Jones as possible. Gram Parsons “GP”. Any of Dolly’s old records. Some essential Patsy Cline. “Hank Williams sings Kaw-Liga and other Funny Songs” is a good one too. Some Carter Family. The Louvin Brother’s “Satan is Real” and throw in a couple of Linda Ronstadt‘s early records for appropriate country rock measure. Early Tanya Tucker is good too.
I could go on, but that’s already a lot. Country music’s all about the song. If you see a record and you think you might like it, buy it (especially if it’s cheap) and figure out your favorite song. That’s the funnest part.

Can you tell us 5 things that we don’t know about Caitlin Rose?
I sleep on cowboy sheets.

I collect talismans and other people’s I.D.’s.

I’m no good with numbers.

I’m a terrible cook.

I’ve had 5 cavities.

Your songs are already known for being pretty straight talking; are you as straight talking in your day to day life?
Not as much as I would like to be.

If Amelia’s Magazine were to come visit you in Nashville ( if you would have us! ), what would we get up to?
I’d show you the Country Music Hall of Fame, Webb Pierce’s guitar shaped swimming pool and Dino’s Bar & Grill on Gallatin Road. I’ve also been hearing a lot about amateur wrestling matches held at a hotel downtown, that sound pretty intriguing.

You have already had some pretty major accomplishments in your career; what have been some of the highlights so far for you?
Bonnaroo and the review in German Rolling Stone were both exciting.

I loved the YouTube video of you by Seth Graves; do you still work at Bobbys Dairy Dip? It would be so cool if you do, but I’m thinking that with your music career going stratospheric it’s left little time for anything else.
No, but I miss it a lot, especially the sweet potato fries.

What would you like to have achieved by the time you are 30? (professionally, and personally)?
A few really good albums, a solid band and the cover of the Rolling Stone.
Also, to be completely free of anything resembling a zit or a pimple for the rest of my life. Kids are cool too.

Am I the first person to tell you that your songs give me goose bumps? (I write this in a non-creepy way, I promise you!)
If you’re worried about sounding creepy then I’m worried about sounding arrogant by saying that you’re not the first.


Illustrations by Emma Block

In a genre steeped in tradition, doctor Caitlin Rose springs forth like a breath of fresh air. Stripped down to the sweetest bare essentials, sildenafil her voice rings clear and true, especially when she sings (at times wistfully, often defiantly) about heartbreak and failed relationships. Case in point: Learning To Ride, the opening track of her new album Own Side Now paints a painfully raw snapshot of a first love; “When I was young I used to ride the wild ones, they were lots of fun but they almost took my life. Now all I need is a simple steed, to take me where I need without putting up a fight.”

But while she is a very much a modern girl; smart, opinionated and droll, she is never mocking of her beloved Country music. “I hate a lot of words” she declares in a short video bio of her; eyes shaded by Ray Bans as she stands in front of her place of work, Bobby’s Dairy Dip. She runs through the words in question…. I hate the word “Indie”, and I hate the word ‘Contemporary’…. but ‘Country’s’ a word that I actually really like”.

The popularity of her debut album, Own Side Now has meant that a few one off dates have morphed into a full European tour and she draws her summer of English festival appearances to a close with a performance at The End Of The Road Festival on September 11th. Recently we emailed Caitlin a bunch of questions, to find out a little bit more about the twenty-three year old girl who is already drawing comparisons to Patsy Cline.

What can we expect from your new album, Own Side Now? Am I right in thinking that it is going to be less acoustic than your debut EP?
It’s a full band record. There’s a pretty stripped down cut of Sinful Wishing Well though.

How did you make your first start into the Nashville music scene? Can you remember your first gig?
My first show was at a pool party and I was 16. I was too nervous to finish any of the songs.
For a time after that I opened shows for my then-boyfriend’s angry suburban punk band. We broke up and he got all the friends so I had to make new ones. Luckily I met some cool people and a few thought I was a decent songwriter. I used to play a dive called the Springwater and whatever anyone else would throw at me. I wasn’t 21 so I took what I could get.

Country music has passed so much of Britian by, it’s almost criminal. If you were to hand pick a record collection for someone who knew nothing about country music, what records would you put in?
How big? I’d suggest a Merle Haggard Greatest Hits album, some Loretta Lynn, John Prine’s first two albums. Marty Robbin’s Gunfighter Ballads. “Our Mother the Mountain” by Townes Van Zandt.
Guy Clark’s “Old No 1″. As much George Jones as possible. Gram Parsons “GP”. Any of Dolly’s old records. Some essential Patsy Cline. “Hank Williams sings Kaw-Liga and other Funny Songs” is a good one too. Some Carter Family. The Louvin Brother’s “Satan is Real” and throw in a couple of Linda Ronstadt‘s early records for appropriate country rock measure. Early Tanya Tucker is good too.
I could go on, but that’s already a lot. Country music’s all about the song. If you see a record and you think you might like it, buy it (especially if it’s cheap) and figure out your favorite song. That’s the funnest part.

Can you tell us 5 things that we don’t know about Caitlin Rose?
I sleep on cowboy sheets.

I collect talismans and other people’s I.D.’s.

I’m no good with numbers.

I’m a terrible cook.

I’ve had 5 cavities.

Your songs are already known for being pretty straight talking; are you as straight talking in your day to day life?
Not as much as I would like to be.

If Amelia’s Magazine were to come visit you in Nashville ( if you would have us! ), what would we get up to?
I’d show you the Country Music Hall of Fame, Webb Pierce’s guitar shaped swimming pool and Dino’s Bar & Grill on Gallatin Road. I’ve also been hearing a lot about amateur wrestling matches held at a hotel downtown, that sound pretty intriguing.

You have already had some pretty major accomplishments in your career; what have been some of the highlights so far for you?
Bonnaroo and the review in German Rolling Stone were both exciting.

I loved the YouTube video of you by Seth Graves; do you still work at Bobbys Dairy Dip? It would be so cool if you do, but I’m thinking that with your music career going stratospheric it’s left little time for anything else.
No, but I miss it a lot, especially the sweet potato fries.

What would you like to have achieved by the time you are 30? (professionally, and personally)?
A few really good albums, a solid band and the cover of the Rolling Stone.
Also, to be completely free of anything resembling a zit or a pimple for the rest of my life. Kids are cool too.

Am I the first person to tell you that your songs give me goose bumps? (I write this in a non-creepy way, I promise you!)
If you’re worried about sounding creepy then I’m worried about sounding arrogant by saying that you’re not the first.


Minna S/S 2010, here illustrated by Yelena Bryksenkova

Ever uttered the words “I’d love to make my own clothes” but then never actually got round to it? Well you wouldn’t be alone, ampoule myself included. I have the basic skills and desire to want to make my own clothes but find it so easy not to do when you succumb to the call of vintage and second hand shops. The impulse and excitement of rummaging makes you forget your previous desire to be your own individual stylist. But moving into the world of creator actually has massive satisfaction and many bragging benefits.  

There have been so many beautiful trends this summer to inspire us but the one that stood out the most to anyone who is thinking of making their own clothing is lace.

Lace is everywhere, on the catwalks, on the high street, and even on our net curtains! Grannies worldwide will have a stash of vintage lace table cloths and curtains prime for the picking to create beautiful one off designs (Which your friends will never be able to copy), and will please your eco-conscience. 


Illustration by Naomi Law

The high street is a great start for inspiration for design, but there are also some amazing individual finds on the internet too. Check out eco-designer Minna Hepburn; her ‘Minna Classics’ collection is a treasure trove of gorgeous lace designs, feminine and playful, and all manufactured in the UK to help support local businesses. If you’re thinking of starting small, Minna offers inspiration not only in clothing but jewellery too, her ‘Kristiina‘ necklace is entirely hand made and created using recycled fabrics including lace and decorated with buttons and beads, something we could all aspire to do. 

When your creativity has peaked and your fingers are itching with excitement for what your about make, head over to www.instructables.com. this website has pretty much anything you could hope to make on it. Blog updates allow you to fill your days by becoming a crafty expert – not only with lace, you can expand your skills to run on for seasons with the amount of ideas and tutorials.

If your still needing that shopping fix, though – as so many of us do, head down to your local second hand book shop where your most likely to find some great new and old pattern books, where you can cut out the patterns and follow the instructions in detail. 


Illustration by Faye West

Whatever you decide to make enjoy the pleasure of creating your own one off, hand made pieces of clothing. It’s time to start paying visits to your friends and families, wardrobes, cupboards, lofts, and basements, for the treasures you never knew you had. Just remember though, – wait until your grannies have finished with their lace net curtains before you start cutting holes in them and fashioning them into on-trend emsembles!  


Lace detail (and one above) by Yelena Bryksenkova

Look out for an interview with Minna soon… but for now, check out our previous chat with her here.

Categories ,Curtains, ,Do It Yourself, ,fashion, ,Faye West, ,Grannies, ,handmade, ,lace, ,make and do, ,Minna, ,Naomi Law, ,Net, ,Stephanie Ellis, ,Yelena Brykensova

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2010 Catwalk Review: Pam Hogg and Nick Cave, Peaches Geldof, Mika

Pedal-powered cinema: doesn’t require a spanner in the works

Oxford, approved for the most part, viagra is an academic, see civilised city, but last night it was very much in store for some monkey business. Yes, GAFI (The Great Apes Film Initiative), SOS (Sumatran Orangutan Society) and the Ape Alliance were in town at Oxford Brookes University holding a screening of a primate-driven conservation film, powered, not by dirty old carbon, but by pedal energy.

We’ve covered the subject of pedal-powered cinema in the earth section recently, of course, but this event partnered the unusual film viewing experience with an interesting initiative – namely, using it to help raise awareness of and finance for pedal-powered cinema opportunities in the remotest parts of the world. GAFI, under the wind of its c-founder and filmmaker Madelaine Westwood, has committed itself to showing conservation films to the public in remote areas that highlight the damage they and their society are doing to their own environment.

Madelaine, present at last night’s event, said that GAFI took up pedal-powered cinema as a resource after children in Cameroon had to walk 20 miles to a GAFI screening, only for a priest who had agreed his church could be used as the venue for the screening called it off, leaving the children to walk all the way back home without even having seen the documentary. A pedal-powered cinema kit, made up merely of a bicycle, a car battery, a DVD player and several different cables and coming in at a top price of just £2,000, was the answer. Thanks to this technology, GAFI can now screen films anywhere; on the side of a building’s wall or even a blanket.

Clever piece of kit: all you need is a bicycle, car battery, DVD player and lots of cables

Admittedly, last night’s screening may not have raised much towards this project – admission price was only £3 – but it was certainly well attended by an audience of up to 50 people, and not all of them obvious students either. And, in my opinion, the major feature shown, ‘Losing Tomorrow’ (directed by Patrick Rouxel), was certainly a success. Unlike the disappointment that was ‘Ice Bears Of The Beaufort’ I sat through at the Artivist Film Festival last weekend, this documentary successfully highlighted the problems – complex as they are – that blight both Sumatra’s primates, most of them orangutans, and the people who are involved in the logging industry that is depriving the monkeys of their habitat and the island of its rainforest.

Over the course of the last century, 50 percent of Sumatra’s rainforest has been cleared for logging, so dominant is the industry there – indeed, it’s estimated that just each day an area of rainforest the size of Manhattan is wiped out. However, suddenly to curtail the logging would rob a large number of people their livelihood – impoverished as they are – while, on the flip side, if the logging continues the country’s rainforest will be entirely wiped out and the logging employees without an industry to employ them anyway. It’s a fine Catch-22 with no easy answers. All the same, the audience was informed there is something they can do – contact their local MP or MEP to put pressure on the British government and the European parliament not to allow the import of timber furniture and wood pulp-produced paper that comes out of Sumatra – 75 percent of which is illegal anyway, so widespread is the logging industry there. The British government has so far made no move in this direction, but the European parliament has been looking into it, so there is some optimism, at least.

And we’re off! The cyclist pedals and the audience watches on

But what, specifically, of the pedal-powered cinema experience? Well, I must say, on a personal level, it’s rather an invigorating thing to be part of – or at least watch. On this occasion, as something of a gimmick, British cyclist and 2012 Olympic hopeful David Smith took to the pedals and, to give him his due, kept up an impressive tempo for about 45 minutes, before – a bit pooped – he handed over the reigns to another volunteer. There is certainly something agreeable about watching something worthy and well-crafted, while you’re aware the power that’s generating it is carbon free and directly man-produced – either that, or it’s just proof of the old maxim that it’s always enjoyable to watch someone working while you’re lazing about doing nothing. Either way, the pedal-powered cinema kit worked perfectly well and was a great advert for GAFI’s aspirations.

‘Losing Tomorrow’ was followed by the short documentary ‘Dear Mr President’. Filmed by Madeline Westwood herself, it showed reactions of Sumatran locals while watching the first documentary and then featured one or two of the viewers addressing, direct to camera, the Sumatran president at the time, asking him to do something about the primate/ logging problems in the country. ‘Dear Mr President’, we were subsequently informed, was indeed shown to the president, but just how much that act has achieved, of course, remains to be seen.

And how much can be done, in general, about Sumatra’s rainforest debacle remains to be seen too – but, as mentioned, we can all do something. For those interested, the MSc 10th anniversary conference on primate conservation will also be held at Oxford Brookes University on the April 23 and 24 – it’s open to everyone; the public as well as students and academics.
Pedal-powered cinema: doesn’t require a spanner in the works

Oxford, thumb for the most part, is an academic, civilised city, but last night it was very much in store for some monkey business. Yes, GAFI (The Great Apes Film Initiative), SOS (Sumatran Orangutan Society) and the Ape Alliance were in town at Oxford Brookes University holding a screening of a primate-driven conservation film, powered, not by dirty old carbon, but by pedal energy.

We’ve covered the subject of pedal-powered cinema in the earth section recently, of course, but this event partnered the unusual film viewing experience with an interesting initiative – namely, using it to help raise awareness of and finance for pedal-powered cinema opportunities in the remotest parts of the world. GAFI, under the wind of its c-founder and filmmaker Madelaine Westwood, has committed itself to showing conservation films to the public in remote areas that highlight the damage they and their society are doing to their own environment.

Madelaine, present at last night’s event, said that GAFI took up pedal-powered cinema as a resource after children in Cameroon had to walk 20 miles to a GAFI screening, only for a priest who had agreed his church could be used as the venue for the screening called it off, leaving the children to walk all the way back home without even having seen the documentary. A pedal-powered cinema kit, made up merely of a bicycle, a car battery, a DVD player and several different cables and coming in at a top price of just £2,000, was the answer. Thanks to this technology, GAFI can now screen films anywhere; on the side of a building’s wall or even a blanket.

Clever piece of kit: all you need is a bicycle, car battery, DVD player and lots of cables

Admittedly, last night’s screening may not have raised much towards this project – admission price was only £3 – but it was certainly well attended by an audience of up to 50 people, and not all of them obvious students either. And, in my opinion, the major feature shown, ‘Losing Tomorrow’ (directed by Patrick Rouxel), was certainly a success. Unlike the disappointment that was ‘Ice Bears Of The Beaufort’ I sat through at the Artivist Film Festival last weekend, this documentary successfully highlighted the problems – complex as they are – that blight both Sumatra’s primates, most of them orangutans, and the people who are involved in the logging industry that is depriving the monkeys of their habitat and the island of its rainforest.

Over the course of the last century, 50 percent of Sumatra’s rainforest has been cleared for logging, so dominant is the industry there – indeed, it’s estimated that just each day an area of rainforest the size of Manhattan is wiped out. However, suddenly to curtail the logging would rob a large number of people their livelihood – impoverished as they are – while, on the flip side, if the logging continues the country’s rainforest will be entirely wiped out and the logging employees without an industry to employ them anyway. It’s a fine Catch-22 with no easy answers. All the same, the audience was informed there is something they can do – contact their local MP or MEP to put pressure on the British government and the European parliament not to allow the import of timber furniture and wood pulp-produced paper that comes out of Sumatra – 75 percent of which is illegal anyway, so widespread is the logging industry there. The British government has so far made no move in this direction, but the European parliament has been looking into it, so there is some optimism, at least.

And we’re off! The cyclist pedals and the audience watches on

But what, specifically, of the pedal-powered cinema experience? Well, I must say, on a personal level, it’s rather an invigorating thing to be part of – or at least watch. On this occasion, as something of a gimmick, British cyclist and 2012 Olympic hopeful David Smith took to the pedals and, to give him his due, kept up an impressive tempo for about 45 minutes, before – a bit pooped – he handed over the reigns to another volunteer. There is certainly something agreeable about watching something worthy and well-crafted, while you’re aware the power that’s generating it is carbon free and directly man-produced – either that, or it’s just proof of the old maxim that it’s always enjoyable to watch someone working while you’re lazing about doing nothing. Either way, the pedal-powered cinema kit worked perfectly well and was a great advert for GAFI’s aspirations.

‘Losing Tomorrow’ was followed by the short documentary ‘Dear Mr President’. Filmed by Madeline Westwood herself, it showed reactions of Sumatran locals while watching the first documentary and then featured one or two of the viewers addressing, direct to camera, the Sumatran president at the time, asking him to do something about the primate/ logging problems in the country. ‘Dear Mr President’, we were subsequently informed, was indeed shown to the president, but just how much that act has achieved, of course, remains to be seen.

And how much can be done, in general, about Sumatra’s rainforest debacle remains to be seen too – but, as mentioned, we can all do something. For those interested, the MSc 10th anniversary conference on primate conservation will also be held at Oxford Brookes University on the April 23 and 24 – it’s open to everyone; the public as well as students and academics.
Pam-Hogg-A/W 2010 by Etiene  Del Monte
Pam Hogg by Etiene Del Monte.

Pam Hogg can pull in an all star rocker crowd and she knows it. I wondered if this begat the complex star sticker system on our invites, drugs which involved double gold stars for rock royalty (or just quite crap celebs), salve single gold stars (presumably for those not destined to make the next day’s paper but still quite important) and any number of other coloured stars for lesser mortals. The mere presence of a star was in itself no assurance of speedy entry, so it was lucky that I and a few of my contributors were already in Victoria House, drinking cups of tea on funny shaped chairs next to an abandoned display.

Amelia Gregory, Sally Mumby-Croft, Satu Fox
Yup, looking happy there girls. That’s me with contributors Satu Fox and Sally Mumby-Croft. Who don’t like posing clearly.

Jodie Marsh at Pam Hogg.
Jodie Marsh at Pam Hogg. This is what you look like if you make an effort, for a bit of contrast like…

This meant that we got to the front of the queue where we were able to get a perfect view of all the celebs as they came prancing in. Jodie Harsh looked every bit as wonderful in the flesh as she does in photos, but much less false (she puts natural born women to shame) and was more than happy to pose for me. Then came Tim Noble and Sue Webster, scowling as usual… Nick Cave swept through like a gothic prince, then came Pearl Lowe (dreadful biography, don’t do it) the execrable Jaime Winstone, Peaches Geldof (shoot me now) and apparently Mika in drag, though I didn’t see him at the time (bonus of leaving your write up awhile and being able to trawl the internet)

Jaimie Winstone at Pam Hogg
Jaime Winstone in the front row. She kept hoiking up her dress.

Peaches Geldof at Pam Hogg
Peaches Geldof in the limelight. Again. With a man who looked like the mascot for KFC. Great look.

We were also unceremoniously shoved aside by lots of arch looking people who I am sure were very rock ‘n’ roll but I have absolutely no idea who they actually were. Behind the barrage of hapless PRs – “Don’t worry, you’ll all be able to come in soon” – we could see people sloshing back free booze from a makeshift bar. How convenient that it should run out by the time us plebs were hastily shepherded in, just moments before the show started. Named Valley of the Shadow of Darkness, our noncommittal grey invites all had a tribute to Alexander McQueen at the bottom of the invitation, reading Lee RIP 1969-2010. Were they good friends? Or was she just showing fashionable solidarity?

Siouxie Soux at Pam Hogg by Amelia Gregory
Siouxie Soux at Pam Hogg. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Cult 80s singer Siouxie Sioux opened the show, looking extremely dramatic in barely there lace topped with a netting puffball. Unfortunately I don’t think the look did her many favours – she looked so severe that not only did I have no idea who she was, but I actually thought she was a middle-aged man in drag. Woops. She is 52 years old at the time of writing but she looks a helluva lot better in recent pictures found on google, so yes, Siouxie, I know you and Pammie have been bessie mates for, like, forever, but next time you might want to but your foot down before stepping out in something so unflattering. Here in an incongruous shot of the pair of them with Dame Shirley Bassey: surely not a bessie too?

Pam Hogg. Sophie Willing, photography by Amelia Gregory
Pam Hogg. photography by Amelia Gregory
Pam Hogg. Alice Dellal. photography by Amelia Gregory
Pam Hogg. photography by Amelia Gregory
Pam Hogg. photography by Amelia Gregory
Pam Hogg. Ben Grimes. photography by Amelia Gregory
Pam Hogg. photography by Amelia Gregory
Pam Hogg. photography by Amelia Gregory
Pam Hogg. photography by Amelia Gregory
Pam Hogg. photography by Amelia Gregory
Sophie Willing at Pam Hogg

Of course it’s well known that no one does glitzy catsuits and sexed-up bodycon quite like Pam Hogg, and so it was that we were treated to starry model after starry model attired in all manner of skin tight mesh pants suits, mini-dresses, many more netting hair bombs, and lots of bum-bouncing tulle with a bit of well placed ribbon or fluff. Panels of rubberised fabric, lace and shiny lame gave a futuristic feel which was emphasised in the bold black eyebrows, and splashes of silver, gold and bright red punctuated the otherwise steely palette of black, dark grey and white. One of the most striking red outfits was modelled by Alice Dellal, she of the asymmetric (currently) blonde hair and sulky pout, and has since been modelled by no less than Lady Gaga (on the short trip from the O2 Arena to her hotel, if reports are to be believed), though I’m not sure she really pulled it off with those ripped fishnets. I think Pam Hogg is worn most successfully when all around is sleek.

Pam-Hogg-A/W 2010-sophie willing & jethro cave, by Etiene Del Monte
Sophie Willing & Jethro Cave, by Etiene Del Monte.

When the lone male model stopped for a mannered snog with one of the girls halfway down the runway to whoops and cheers, I knew they must be well known. A google search further revealed the real reason for Nick Cave’s attendance: the beautiful skinny boy was none other than his son Jethro Cave, and he was kissing Sophie Willing, a fellow Ozzie model and also his girlfriend. Together they appear in a tacky bondage inspired photoshoot called Boys Will Be Toys. Tasteful. Apparently daddy was very proud. Also in attendance was model du jour, Ben Grimes. That’s a girl in case you were wondering.

Pam-Hogg-A/W 2010-Etiene Del Monte
Sophie Willing plays the sexy angel, by Etiene Del Monte.

Sophie Willing and Jethro Cave at Pam Hogg

Siouxie Soux and Pam Hogg
Siouxie Soux and Pam Hogg.

At the end Pam came right down along the catwalk in a hug with Siouxie Soux towering over her – she looked very much like a cartoon character in skintight shiny black, sporting fake bright yellow hair. She has always catered well to rock royalty but I can suddenly see why she might appeal to Lady Gaga’s pop sensibility as well. But I’m left with the pressing question: who dyed their hair that vicious shade of Ed the Duck yellow first?

Categories ,80s, ,Alice Dellal, ,Ben Grimes, ,celebrities, ,Etiene Del Monte, ,Fluff, ,Free Bar, ,Jaime Winstone, ,Jethro Cave, ,lace, ,Lady Gaga, ,Lame, ,London Fashion Week, ,Mika, ,Net, ,Nick Cave, ,Pam Hogg, ,Peaches Geldof, ,pop, ,Rock ‘n’ Roll, ,Siouxie Soux, ,Sophie Willing, ,Tim Noble and Sue Webster, ,Tulle, ,Victoria House

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Amelia’s Magazine | Huishan Zhang: London Fashion Week A/W 2013 Catwalk Review

Huishan Zhang A/W 2013 by Dom & Ink
Huishan Zhang A/W 2013 by Dom & Ink.

New twitter mini film app Vine was embraced by the more social media savvy end of the fashion crowd at London Fashion Week: the six second looping films proving perfect to give an immediate moving idea of the shows that a static picture sometimes struggles to put across. Bright catwalk lights tend to wash out un-metered image creation, so I found Vine worked best at the more inventive presentations that I attended. One such show was that put on by Central Saint Martins graduate Huishan Zhang, a Chinese born designer who has interned within the hallowed atelier of the Dior couturiers. Take a peek below:

Huishan Zhang A/W 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Huishan Zhang A/W 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Huishan Zhang A/W 2013 by Gemma Cotterell
Huishan Zhang A/W 2013 by Gemma Cotterell.

Huishan Zhang A/W 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Huishan Zhang A/W 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Huishan-Zang-AW-2013-Illustration-by-Shy-Illustrations
Huishan Zhang A/W 2013 by Shy Illustrations.

Huishan Zhang A/W 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Huishan Zhang A/W 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Huishan Zhang A/W 2013 by Sylwia Szyszka
Huishan Zhang A/W 2013 by Sylwia Szyszka.

Huishan Zhang A/W 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Huishan Zhang A/W 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Huishan Zhang A/W 2013 by Dom & Ink
Huishan Zhang A/W 2013 by Dom & Ink.

For A/W 2013 Huishan Zhang melded Eastern and Western influences in a supremely subtle and modern way: Mondrian-esque stripes and colour blocks were merged with delicate overlays of lace and glitter panels to create 60s inspired A-line shift dresses. These shapes echoed the Chinese Mao suit that was worn by everyone in 60s China, but the sparkling addition of Swarovski sponsored panels of crystals made them dinner party desirable for now. High waist tapered trousers felt modern paired with swing back crop jackets, whilst contrasting lace appliqués and peek-a-boo pleats provided additional interest. This was a wonderfully clever collection; definitely one of my new designers to watch.

Huishan Zhang A/W 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Huishan Zhang A/W 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Huishan Zhang A/W 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Huishan Zhang A/W 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Huishan Zhang A/W 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Huishan Zhang A/W 2013 by Sylwia Szyszka
Huishan Zhang A/W 2013 by Sylwia Szyszka.

Huishan Zhang A/W 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Huishan Zhang A/W 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Huishan Zhang A/W 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Huishan Zhang A/W 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Huishan Zhang A/W 2013 photo by Amelia Gregory
Huishan Zhang A/W 2013. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Huishan Zhang A/W 2013 by Sylwia Szyszka
Huishan Zhang A/W 2013 by Sylwia Szyszka.

Categories ,60s, ,Central Saint Martins, ,Chinese, ,Dior, ,Dom & Ink, ,Gemma Cotterell, ,Huishan Zhang, ,lace, ,London Fashion Week, ,Mao suit, ,Mondrian, ,Shy Illustrations, ,Swarovski, ,Sylwia Szyszka, ,Vine

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Amelia’s Magazine | Inbar Spector: London Fashion Week A/W 2012 Catwalk Review

Inbar Spector AW 2012 by Mitika Chohan

Inbar Spector AW 2012 by Mitika Chohan

I first came across an Inbar Spector dress on a ‘wall’ created by Gabby Young and Katie Antoniou’s Gabberdashery for Supermarket Sarah. It was a voluminous, twisted, tulle dress in a gorgeous light ocean blue which instantly made an impression on me. Since then I have followed Inbar Spector’s work via her strong presence on Facebook, which has enabled me to have peaks into her studio, see pieces in progress, and get a glimpse of her sweet personality. I also had the pleasure of seeing one of her creations in real life worn by Gabby Young – a fan of Spector’s designs – during Gabby Young and Other Animals’ Koko gig last October.

Inbar Spector AW12 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Inbar Spector AW12 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

So I was quite excited to see Inbar Spector‘s A/W 2012 collection at Fashion Scout’s venue, Freemasons’ Hall. I was certain that I was going to have my dose of the extraordinary, which I very much craved after a couple of less than thrilling London Fashion Week experiences the night before. I was not disappointed: I felt a smile forming the moment the show began. The models, beautifully styled by Hope Von Joel, walked slowly towards the photographers’ pit accompanied by a great soundtrack mixed by Todd Hart.

Inbar Spector AW12 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Inbar Spector AW 2012 by Love Amelia

Inbar Spector AW 2012 by Love Amelia

Inbar Spector AW12 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Inbar Spector AW12 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

There was a lot of continuity from S/S 2012. Inbar Spector displayed again her amazing skills in constructing, twisting and knotting generous amounts of silks in soft pastels on metallic faux leather laser cut bodysuits and dresses. The slightly 80s disco metallic bodysuits seemed to me to match perfectly with Todd Hart’s mix, which featured heavily electric keyboard sounds from that decade.

Inbar Spector AW12 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Inbar Spector AW 2012 by Rosa and Carlotta Crepax Illustrated Moodboard

Inbar Spector AW 2012 by Rosa and Carlotta Crepax Illustrated Moodboard

Inbar Spector AW12 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

This 80s aura helped us escape for a few moments back to a time when we were younger – and maybe richer. The theme to Inbar Spector’s show was indeed Escapism. She quotes ‘fairytales, manga, dreams and circus clowns’ as some of her inspirations for this season. She also makes a connection between the perforated faux leather elements in her clothes – which allow a lot of skin to show through so that one does not know where the real body starts and ends – and people being ‘ruffled’, like some of her clothes, by having plastic surgery and so escaping from the reality of their bodies.

Inbar Spector AW12 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Inbar Spector AW12 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Inbar Spector AW12 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Inbar Spector AW 2012 Lara Jensen headpiece by Love Amelia

Inbar Spector AW 2012 Lara Jensen headpiece by Love Amelia

Inbar Spector AW12 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Inbar Spector AW12 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Escaping or changing one’s identity or hiding behind something were relevant themes to another star in the show: the elaborately jewelled headpieces by Lara Jensen which fell in front of the models’ faces like masks. They certainly reminded me of lavishly adorned princesses and maidens from tales of exotic places, but I could not help thinking they also had an element of S&M to them, which again created a link to escapism. I think I was aided in this thought by the constant recurrence in the soundtrack mix of the song ‘Obsession’ by the band Army of Lovers.

Inbar Spector AW12 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Inbar Spector AW12 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Inbar Spector AW 2012 by Novemto Komo

Inbar Spector AW 2012 by Novemto Komo

Inbar Spector AW12 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Inbar Spector AW12 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Inbar Spector AW 2012 by Reed Rainer

Inbar Spector AW 2012 by Reed Rainer

Again similarly to what she has done in previous shows, Inbar Spector presented her collection building an impressive crescendo by starting with less theatrical pieces, gradually sending out more and more voluminous garments, finishing off with two numbers which were so heart stopping and exciting the audience could not help but clap, cheer and whistle in keen approval. When in the end a tiny, adorable Inbar walked down the catwalk holding hands with the model who was wearing her gigantic closing number, she was drowned by it in physical terms, but her potential and creativity seemed just as gigantic – and then some.

Inbar Spector AW12 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Inbar Spector AW12 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Inbar Spector AW12 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Inbar Spector AW12 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

All photography by Maria Papadimitriou

Categories ,80s, ,Army of Colours, ,Bodysuit, ,Bride, ,Circus, ,Constructivism, ,Crinolines, ,disco, ,Escapism, ,Exotic, ,fairytales, ,Faux Leather, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Gabberdashery, ,gabby young, ,Gabby Young and Other Animals, ,Headpiece, ,Hope Von Joel, ,Illustrated Moodboard, ,Inbar Spector, ,jewellery, ,Katie Antoniou, ,Kerry Jones, ,lace, ,Lara Jensen, ,Laser Cutting, ,London Fashion Week, ,Love Amelia, ,Manga, ,Maria Papadimitriou, ,Masks, ,Metalic, ,Mitika Chohan, ,Novemto Komo, ,Obsession, ,Pastel Colours, ,pastels, ,Perforated, ,Plastic Surgery, ,Reed Rainer, ,Rosa and Carlotta Crepax, ,Ruffles, ,S&M, ,Sadomasochism, ,Silks, ,Supermarket Sarah, ,Todd Hart, ,Vauxhall Fashion Scout

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Amelia’s Magazine | Charlie May: London Fashion Week A/W 2013 Catwalk Review

Charlie May A/W 2013 by Chloe Douglass
Charlie May A/W 2013 by Chloe Douglass.

There was plenty of buzz surrounding Charlie May‘s second catwalk show thanks to her status as a blogging fashion designer, so I wasn’t surprised to see many familiar faces so early on a Sunday morning outside the Ice Tank. Charlie is a designer of the minimalist ilk and she had chosen an apt venue to showcase her new collection: a photography studio with a white infinity curve against which the models paused for photographs.

Charlie May AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Charlie May AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Charlie May AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Charlie May AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Charlie May AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Charlie May AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Charlie May AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Charlie May A/W 2013 by Jane Young
Charlie May A/W 2013 by Jane Young.

The collection, which had been inspired by ice, rock and fire, began in crisp white: sheer polo necks worn beneath wide lapelled tailored wool coats, with pencil skirts and sheer black tights. A roll neck knit was worn under an ostrich skin biker jacket and there was a distinct 80s vibe to the oversized blazers. Red lips worked beautifully with a simple silk shift dress and an A-line maxi dress accessorised with a simple black clutch bag by Danielle Foster. Moving swiftly through a few black, wine and gunmetal grey garments we arrived at my favourite looks, a cherry red dress and skinny leg suit. Charlie May successfully mixed textures and tones to bring subtle interest to her minimalist aesthetic, and I’ll be intrigued to see what she comes up with next.

Charlie May AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Charlie May AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Charlie May AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Charlie May AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Charlie May AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Charlie May AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Charlie May AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Charlie May A/W 2013. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Charlie May AW13 by Isher Dhiman
Charlie May A/W 2013 by Isher Dhiman.

Categories ,A/W 2013, ,Charlie May, ,Chloe Douglass, ,Danielle Foster, ,Girl a la Mode, ,Ice Tank, ,Isher Dhiman, ,Jane Young, ,London Fashion Week, ,review

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Amelia’s Magazine | Belle Sauvage: London Fashion Week A/W 2013 Catwalk Preview Interview

Belle Sauvage A/W 2013 by Laura Hickman
Belle Sauvage A/W 2013 by Laura Hickman.

The Belle Sauvage label was launched in 2008 by design duo Virginia Ferreira and Chris Neuman, who are based between London and Luxemboug. Combining avant-garde silhouettes with intricate digital prints, their signature look is sleek, sophisticated and feminine. I caught up with the designers in advance of their London Fashion Week catwalk show next week.

Belle Sauvage A/W 2013 by Harry Williams
Belle Sauvage A/W 2013 by Harry Williams.

You’re known for your amazing digital prints: what training do you have?
Virginia studied Fashion Design (Diploma course) at the London College of Fashion and Chris has an B.A in Media Design and an M.A in Arts (Filmmaking).

How did you both meet and decide to work together, and what is the process behind the creation of each collection?
We met in Argentina and them moved to London to finish our studies. The initial idea was to combine both of our talents and interests. Apart form the designing, Chris goes on drawing the artwork for all of our labels and both designers now create four collections a year. Next to our two labels we also provide design concepts and artwork through our third line Vicious East mainly sold in Japan and China. 

Belle Sauvage A/W 2013 by Karina Järv
Belle Sauvage A/W 2013 by Karina Järv.

As we work on so many collections a year the design process is quite organised. We always start on the main line Belle Sauvage. It has the least compromises regarding design as it is high end Ready To Wear and targets fashion forward thinking individuals. We then adapt the design to the diffusion lines, keeping the markets, audience and budgets in mind.

How do you work between London and Luxembourg?
We do all our professional work in London. This goes from sales meetings to sampling. As we manufacture in Spain and Portugal apart from the U.K we have to move around quite a bit and find it great to have a relaxing home in Luxembourg to calm down form time to time.

 Belle Sauvage A/W 2013 by Sara Gelfgren
Belle Sauvage A/W 2013 by Sara Gelfgren.

What made you decide to present your collection in London?
We started the brand in 2008 in London and were grounded in the new upcoming designers. We had our first press agency in London and that is really where everything started. London Fashion Week is really not that important in terms of sales but it is a good place to present your new collection. London is really about the crowd. We love the fashion people in the city, and are happy to be part of it.

For A/W 2013 you have drawn inspiration from the gothic to the baroque to the renaissance, including motifs of tigers and dragons: where did you look for imagery and ideas?
You can find both motifs in Asian philosophy. They are opposite symbols and we liked the idea behind it as we love both creatures. As we have baroque influences in the line, we see it as the Asian counterpart of our western world.

Belle Sauvage A/W 2013 by Laura Hickman
Belle Sauvage A/W 2013 by Laura Hickman.
 
Trims are an important part of your designs: how do they fit in with your more tailored and sleek fitting aesthetic and how do you recommend that customers wear/style your designs?
Fur and trims have a decorative element, which is very persistent in baroque aesthetics. The A/W 2013 line has a very wearable approach. We truly believe that the current lines in fashion look for a minimal approach and actually work with the body shapes instead of imposing too much volume or construction. We use fake fur apart from sheep.
 
It’s been awhile since I went to a Belle Sauvage catwalk show: what can we expect from the new season?
You saw our A/W 2010 collection. The collection is of course different but the spirit and attitude is the same. We have a very clear image on the Belle Sauvage woman. The style changes but the attitude stays consistent.

Belle Sauvage A/W 2013 by Marianna Madriz
Belle Sauvage A/W 2013 by Marianna Madriz.

Belle Sauvage can be bought online at Shop Belle Sauvage. The brand takes to the catwalk on Friday 15th February 2013 at Freemasons’ Hall. Watch out for our review of the show!

Belle Sauvage AW 2013 preview
Belle Sauvage A/W 2013 preview image.

Categories ,A/W 2013, ,Argentina, ,Belle Sauvage, ,Chris Neuman, ,Fashion Design, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Harry Williams, ,interview, ,Karina Jarv, ,Laura Hickman, ,London College of Fashion, ,London Fashion Week, ,Luxembourg, ,Marianna Madriz, ,preview, ,Sara Gelfgren, ,Vicious East, ,Virginia Ferreira

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Amelia’s Magazine | An Interview with Designer Joseph Turvey – Part 2


Joseph Turvey S/S 2013 by Gemma Cotterell

Joe’s MA collection: vibrant orange and magenta lace with transparent panels and translucent trenches was a massive hit. Fake Tokyo completely sold out and they’re backing him again this season, amongst many others. I sense that Joe is pretty busy minded. He’s conquering Asia step-by-step. He opened Shanghai Fashion Week with said MA collection, an experience he’ll never forget. ‘The catwalk was MASSIVE!’ he tells me, ‘it was like a Madonna tour!’

Joseph Turvey MA collection

We take a look through the current Spring/Summer collection – a range of dazzling neon hues married with white t-shirts and his synonymous illustrative portraits. Joe demonstrates the heat-sensitive technique he’s pioneered for spring/summer, so the model’s face becomes clear when worn. I ask if the faces we’re now so familiar with are based on anyone in particular. ‘Not really,’ he says, ‘I merge a few faces together. A bit like Frankenstein’, he laughs. Joe tells me that people always ask the story behind his personal interpretations and influences on his collections. ‘People always look for hidden meanings,’ he says. ‘Maybe I should be more like Taylor Swift and feature exes.’

What else is in the pipeline? ‘I really like collaborations,’ he says, ‘I like the juxtaposition of things.’ Joe’s currently collaborating with Hush Puppies, pioneer of the men’s comfort shoe but currently undergoing a massive relaunch under the creative direction of Jack Hemingway. He’s excited to work with established brands and put his stamp on menswear staples.

I ask how S/S 2014 is going. ‘I’ve nearly finished!’ he says, excitedly. I ask what we might expect. ‘It’s very colourful,’ he tells me, careful not to reveal too much. ‘There’s a central figure, again, and it’s very illustrative.’ He’s obsessed with the aesthetics of fabrics and innovative textures and his ethos is to always move things forward: lace, vinyl-peaked caps, laser-cut florals; the contrast of gloss spots on a black bomber. Joe works closely with acclaimed London textile company Insley & Nash in his constant endeavours to advance fashion techniques.


Joseph Turvey S/S 2013 by Karina Järv

I take a few photographs of both collections as we chat about everything else. What other brands does he admire? Baartmans and Siegel (who are ‘amazing’) and close pal Domingo Rodriguez are high on his list, as is Christopher Kane, who manages to make clothes ‘sellable but with his stamp on it.’

What advice would Joe give to current graduates looking to follow in his footsteps? ‘The best thing I did was the MA,’ he declares. With Savile Row tutoring and free reign on his future, Joe developed his unique approach we’ve become so quickly familiar with. ‘I’d say – don’t rush in to anything. I spent a lot of money doing it, but it really helped me focus. It’s about developing your skills. Make it exactly what you want it to be.’

Categories ,Asia, ,beyonce, ,Fake Tokyo, ,fashion, ,Gemma Cotterell, ,interview, ,Joseph Turvey, ,Karina Jarv, ,lace, ,ma, ,Matt Bramford, ,menswear, ,Shanghai Fashion Week, ,SS13

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Amelia’s Magazine | Beautiful Soul: meet Nicola Woods, ethical fashion designer extraordinaire

ZarinaLiew_BeautifulSoul_FW10
Beautiful Soul A/W 2010 by Zarina Liew.

You started out as an insurance broker so you’ve have had an unconventional career so far. Why and how did you become a fashion designer?
As a young girl, approved treatment I wanted to be a fashion designer, shop but life has its twists and turns and I found myself caught up in the rat race for eleven years. I lacked passion for my work but I didn’t know how I would cope without my luxuries and the next pay rise. Then I had the opportunity to backpack around the world for six months with my best friend and for the first time in my adult life I realised that I could live on a budget. I started to see life in a different light, with endless opportunities. Whilst in Tokyo, something happened to me: I was surrounded by the most amazing boutiques and I was like a child in a sweet shop. Mesmerised. Excited. Totally inspired. I realised that I needed to make radical changes to my lifestyle in order to make my dreams a reality and I haven’t looked back since. I graduated from the London College of Fashion with a BA(Hons) in Fashion, Design and Technology in 2008. During my final year, I was involved in a project based around ‘saving the earth’. I was hooked. Fashion with a TRUE meaning, for me, is the only way, and my ethos helps me to focus and push forward.

Beautiful Soul A/W 2010 by Zarina Liew
Beautiful Soul by Zarina Liew

Why did you decide to specialise in creating adjustable garments?
I set out to create timeless designs that will be favoured pieces in the wardrobe for a lifetime and multi-functionality renders a garment timeless, as it can be worn to suit different moods and seasons. A woman’s curves change regularly and it’s frustrating when a zip or button will not close. I therefore avoid using conventional fastening in my designs and instead explore alternative methods. I love to experiment and delve below the surface of fashion, discovering new ways to incorporate responsibility through use of distinctive materials and design innovation.

What does your zero waste policy mean in practicality?
I am extremely fond of fabric and I hate to see it go to waste! I upcycle vintage kimonos to create new garments that hold a greater value; when I dismantle a kimono I am left with very limited panels of fabric, only 38cm wide. It’s important that I work with these restrictions and nurture an understanding of the fabric availability. Any leftover fabric will be placed aside and then revisited the following season, where I set myself the challenge of designing a new piece based on the leftovers. I have just designed Beautiful Soul’s third collection, S/S 2011’s Believe, and the leftover fabrics have been transformed into a range of unique corsets and shoulders pads in our menswear jackets. Material remnants feature as fastenings and embellishments, adhering to the policy of zero waste whereby every last thread of fabric is used in the creative process….


Beautiful Soul SS:11 Believe was created with Zarina Liew after she made contact with Nicola Woods to complete her submission to be in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration. Music was provided by Amelia’s Magazine favourite Gabby Young and Other Animals.

Read the rest of this interview and see more illustrations of Beautiful Soul’s clothing in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration, alongside interviews with 44 other ethical fashion designers and 30 fabulous fashion illustrators. You can buy the book here.

Categories ,Beautiful Soul, ,Eco fashion, ,Ethical designer, ,Gabby Young and Other Animals, ,Kimono, ,London College of Fashion, ,Nicola Woods, ,tokyo, ,Zarina Liew

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