Amelia’s Magazine | Royal College of Art: Fashion Design Graduate Show 2011 review. Menswear.

RCA Graduate Show 2011 Calum Harvey by Sam Parr
Calum Harvey by Sam Parr.

Fine tailoring appears to be an RCA speciality, find and several students had collaborated with high end Italian brand Brioni to produce a series of gorgeous tailored coats in shades of fawn, here dust, greyhound and sharp reds.

RCA graduate fashion 2011-Brioni photography by Amelia Gregory
RCA Brioni collaboration. Coat by Alexander Lamb. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

RCA graduate fashion 2011-Brioni by Peter Bailey photography by Amelia Gregory
Brioni coat by Peter Bailey.

RCA graduate fashion 2011-Brioni by Rebecca Neary photography by Amelia Gregory
Brioni coat by Rebecca Neary.

RCA graduate fashion 2011-Brioni by Zac Marshall photography by Amelia Gregory
Brioni coat by Zac Marshall.

RCA graduate fashion 2011-Brioni by Benedicte Holmboe photography by Amelia Gregory
Brioni coat by Benedicte Holmboe.

RCA graduate fashion 2011-Brioni Zac Marshall photography by Amelia Gregory
Brioni coat by Alex Mullins.

Over-sized round shoulders and trench coat styling was the order of the day, all worn with dark shades. Loved it all. Especially the ones above.

RCA graduate fashion 2011-Aleksandra Domanevskaya photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Aleksandra Domanevskaya photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Aleksandra Domanevskaya photography by Amelia Gregory
Aleksandra Domanevskaya opted for a colourful collection based around stripey woven shantung silk in peach and caramel shades, also worn with moody sunglasses.

RCA graduate fashion 2011-Sol Ahn photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Sol Ahn photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Sol Ahn photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Sol Ahn photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Sol Ahn photography by Amelia Gregory
Sol Ahn created a sports casual collection, with inspiration taken from baseball jackets, faded denim, school boy shorts and traditional duffel coats. I liked the way that big waist rope ties became integral features of the look.
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RCA graduate fashion 2011-Calum Harvey photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Calum Harvey photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Calum Harvey photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Calum Harvey photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Calum Harvey photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Calum Harvey photography by Amelia Gregory
Calum Harvey‘s collection was a clear standout amongst a sea of great talent. Riffing on traditional shapes and fabrics he showed high belted tweed suits and long boxy coats in peachy shades, accessorised with wide shaggy collars and jaunty hats. I particularly liked the wide trousered grey tweed suit. Very stylish indeed. Check out Calum Harvey’s website here.

RCA graduate fashion 2011-Josefine Jarzombek photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Josefine Jarzombek photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Josefine Jarzombek photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Josefine Jarzombek photography by Amelia Gregory
I wasn’t so keen on Josefine Jarzombek‘s collection, mainly because she did the fur sponsorship thing, but also because those orange leather gloves with the maroon silk shirt were a wee bit scary.

RCA graduate fashion 2011-Bennet Loveday photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Bennet Loveday photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Bennet Loveday photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Bennet Loveday photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Bennet Loveday photography by Amelia Gregory
Bennet Loveday produced some wonderful print effects on the inside of long cardigan and kagoul-like lightweight coats. Loved the slouchy shapes and tie-waist detailing (again).

RCA graduate fashion 2011-Samuel Membery photo amelia gregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Samuel Membery photo amelia gregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Samuel Membery photo amelia gregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Samuel MemberyRCA graduate fashion 2011-Samuel Membery
Samuel Membery‘s collection combined tailoring with casual wear with varied success. I liked the marled grey knitwear. Catch him on his blog and website.

RCA graduate fashion 2011-Emily Jane Murray photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Emily Jane Murray photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Emily Jane Murray photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Emily Jane Murray photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Emily Jane Murray photography by Amelia Gregory
Emily-Jane Murrays obsession with sandy coloured suede or suede type materials paid off in a very dapper collection. She has a website here.

RCA graduate fashion 2011-Yejon Park photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Yejon Park photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Yejon Park photography by Amelia Gregory
Yejon Park launched his collection with an amazing tailored and zippered striped jacket, which was followed by some deconstructed tailoring and a fun bi-coloured jumpsuit.

RCA graduate fashion 2011-Stefan Orschel-Read photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Stefan Orschel-Read photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Stefan Orschel-Read photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Stefan Orschel-Read photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Stefan Orschel-Read photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Stefan Orschel-Read photography by Amelia Gregory
Stefan Orschel-Read has already been on my radar for some time as he is represented by Felicities PR and he’s also an old pro when it comes to catwalk shows. He showed an immaculately cut collection of sharp suits with intriguing detailing such as knitted shoulder cutouts and unusual collars. I loved the grey marl shorts suit.

Fah Chakshuvej by Sandra Contreras
Fah Chakshuvej by Sandra Contreras.

RCA graduate fashion 2011-Fah Chakshuvej photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Fah Chakshuvej photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Fah Chakshuvej photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Fah Chakshuvej photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Fah Chakshuvej photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Fah Chakshuvej photography by Amelia GregoryRCA graduate fashion 2011-Fah Chakshuvej photography by Amelia Gregory
Fah Chakshuvej closed the menswear selection with a regal looking collection that included metallics, heavy embossing and laser cut detailing. High collars and horns completed the look. His website is FahChak.com and he has a twitter feed too.

Don’t forget to check out some excellent menswear knitwear design here too.

Categories ,2011, ,Aleksandra Domanevskaya, ,Alex Mullins, ,Alexander Lamb, ,Benedicte Holmboe, ,Bennet Loveday, ,Brioni, ,Calum Harvey, ,Coats, ,Embossing, ,Emily-Jane Murray, ,Fah Chak, ,Fah Chakshuvej, ,Felicities PR, ,Fur, ,Graduate Fashion Show, ,Italian, ,Josefine Jarzombek, ,menswear, ,metallics, ,Peter Bailey, ,rca, ,Rebecca Neary, ,Royal College of Art, ,Sam Parr, ,Samuel Membery, ,Sandra Contreras, ,Sol Ahn, ,Stefan Orschel-Read, ,tailoring, ,traditional, ,Tweed, ,Yejon Park, ,Zac Marshall

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Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland S/S 2012 in Łódź: Gala Dyplomowa Show at Andels

Dominika Naziebly by Joanne Oatts
Dominika Naziebly A/W 2010 by Joanne Oatts.

On Thursday night Andels Hotel hosted the Gala Graduate show of the Academy of Fine Arts, otherwise known as the Gala Dyplomowa, featuring top graduate fashion talent. We were ushered to the top floor of the hotel where the warehouse has retained its original huge proportions, big enough for a catwalk and plenty of seating. An utterly fabulous venue, and very convenient too…

Here, in alphabetical order (cos that’s the way it rolls) are the designers that showed:

Adriana Grudzinska KC Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Adriana Grudzinska KC Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Adriana Grudzinska KC Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Adrianna Grudzinska showed Polacz Kropki (Slow Up) – swing dresses and pleated separates in shades of camel, mushroom and peach.

Aleksandra Kmieci Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012 photo by Amelia Gregory
Aleksandra Kmieci Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012 photo by Amelia Gregory
Aleksandra Kmiecik Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012 photo by Amelia Gregory
Aleksandra Kmiecik Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012 photo by Amelia Gregory
Aleksandra Kmiecik Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012 photo by Amelia Gregory
Kobieta Symetryczna featured sharp tailoring in white, black and beige with highlights in red slashes by Aleksandra Kmiecik, who also shows on the main schedule. I saw parts of this collection last season and you can read my review here.

Alicja Antoszczyk Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Alicja Antoszczyk Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Alicja Antoszczyk Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Alicja Antoszczyk Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Alicja Antoszczyk Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Alicja Antoszczyk Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Alicja Antoszczyk Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Gala graduate designer Alicja Antoszczyk showed as part of the Golden Thread Awards last season, so I instantly recognised her sleek rubberised garments, layered in sophisticated shades. The collection is called Zawsze Jest Jakie’s Ale: intriguing!

Dominika Naziebly Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Dominika Naziebly Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Dominika Naziebly Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Dominika Naziebly Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Dominika Naziebly Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Dominika Naziebly Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Dominika Naziebly Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Eco designer Dominika Naziebly also showed at the Golden Thread Awards: my favourite was wheeled out once again, a stunning red puffball dress. This season she also showed on the Off Out Of Schedule catwalk, review to come shortly.

Elzbieta Kapczynska KC Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Elzbieta Kapczynska KC Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Zip details and drop crotches were the order of the day at Elzbieta Kapczynska-KC, with a collection titled Zbroja Miejska.

Magdalena Zajaczkowska Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Magdalena Zajaczkowska Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Magdalena Zajaczkowska Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Magdalena Zajaczkowska Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Magdalena Zajaczkowska by Geiko Louve
Magdalena Zajaczkowska by Geiko Louve.

Magdalena Zajaczkowska‘s collection was called Sploty I Przeploty, meaning Pleats and Intertwines. She showed oversized and bulbous knitwear in slate and dark jewel colours.

Martyna Idzikowsk Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Martyna Idzikowsk Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Martyna Idzikowsk Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Martyna Idzikowsk Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Martyna Idzikowsk Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Martyna Idzikowsk Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Martyna Idzikowsk Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Martyna Idzikowska showed a reprise of her innovative collection shown at the Golden Thread Awards – incredible layers of white fabrics created egg-like silhouettes, emphasised with blood red underlayers.

Olga Mieloszyk Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Olga Mieloszyk Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Olga Mieloszyk Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Olga Mieloszyk Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Olga Mieloszyk Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Olga Mieloszyk Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Olga Mieloszyk Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Olga Mieloszyk Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Olga Mieloszyk Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Olga Mieloszyk by Novemto Komo
Olga Mieloszyk by Novemto Komo.

Not speaking a word of Polish, I can’t be entirely sure, but I think that Olga Mieloszyk won the main award. Her Oranzeria collection was amongst my favourites: beautiful and wearable womens and menswear with intricate frills, panelling and pleated details in shades of orange and browns.

Karolina Glaguta Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Karolina Glaguta Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Karolina Glaguta Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Karolina Glaguta Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Karolina Glaguta Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Karolina Glaguta Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Karolina Glaguta Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Karolina Glaguta Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Karolina Glaguta Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
All photography by Amelia Gregory.

The show ended with a beautiful selection of sculpted evening dresses in sweetie shades by Karolina Glegula, except I am not sure I wrote down her name correctly: I did my best by squinting at the screen behind the catwalk since there was no information in written form to take away.

Find out more about the Golden Thread Awards in my previous blog post: it was certainly a night to remember: two solid hours of catwalk show!

Categories ,A/W 2011, ,Academy of Fine Arts, ,Adrianna Grudzinska, ,Aleksandra Kmiecik, ,Alicja Antoszczyk, ,Andels, ,Coats, ,Dominika Naziebly, ,Eco fashion, ,Elzbieta Kapczynska, ,Evening Wear, ,Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland, ,Gala Dyplomowa, ,Gala Show, ,Geiko Louve, ,Golden Thread Awards, ,Joanne Oatts, ,Karolina Glegula, ,knitwear, ,Kobieta Symetryczna, ,Lodz, ,Magdalena Zajaczkowska, ,Martyna Idzikowska, ,Novemto Komo, ,Off Out Of Schedule, ,Olga Mieloszyk, ,Oranzeria, ,Pleats and Intertwines, ,Polacz Kropki (Slow Up), ,Sploty i Przeploty, ,Zawsze Jest Jakie’s Ale, ,Zbroja Miejska

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Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland A/W 2011 in Łódź: Zuo Corp

Zuo Corp by Rebecca Elves
Zuo Corp by Rebecca Elves.

Zuo Corp by Dagmara Rosa and Bartek Michalec opened with yet more pealing bells as the same 12 models on rotation were sent out in grey wimples and tightly tied headscarves. Poland supplies the international fashion circuit with many a gorgeous creature, illness but they weren’t around for Fashion Week Poland. Someone needs to go fetch them back!

Zuo Corp by Rebecca Elves
Zuo Corp by Rebecca Elves.

Double breasted coat dresses were impressively well cut and for once the fabrics worked with the tailoring (perhaps because fabric sourcing from Italy and Germany is an integral part of the Zuo Corp brand). Note to other Polish fashion designers: see how much a bit of attention to quality changes things! There were sharp elbows, low waists, silk tailoring, intarsia knit details and sheer tights worn with high black secretary heels and chunky nugget rings. The avante garde soundtrack was a mash up of drum rolls and random bits taken from adverts. I liked the styling of the head scarfs tied on the back of the heads, and the cream silk designs with a peachy pointy finger print were very clever and wearable whilst still being quirky.

Zuo Corp ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryZuo Corp ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia Gregory

Then, all of a sudden, an excitable sprite started dancing down the stage, conducting in her wake – with the national flag – a full brass band. Sometimes something completely throws me at a fashion show, and this was most definitely one of those occasions. I had spotted one of the musicians polishing his tuba backstage so I had an inkling that something was afoot but this turn of events still took me and the rest of the audience by complete surprise because it was so totally random in the context of the show. But it was certainly one way to woo the crowd: inject a bit of unexpected humour why not?

Zuo Corp ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryZuo Corp ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryZuo Corp ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryZuo Corp ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryZuo Corp ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryZuo Corp ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryZuo Corp ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryZuo Corp ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryZuo Corp ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryZuo Corp ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryZuo Corp ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryZuo Corp ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia GregoryZuo Corp ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia Gregory
Zuo Corp A/W 2011. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,Bartek Michalec, ,bells, ,Brass Band, ,Coats, ,Dagmara Rosa, ,Designers’ Avenue, ,Expo, ,Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland, ,Fashion Week Poland, ,Germany, ,Headscarves, ,Intarsia, ,Italy, ,Lodz, ,National Flag, ,print, ,Rebecca Elves, ,Wimples, ,Zuo Corp

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Amelia’s Magazine | Beautiful Soul: meet Nicola Woods, ethical fashion designer extraordinaire

ZarinaLiew_BeautifulSoul_FW10
Beautiful Soul A/W 2010 by Zarina Liew.

You started out as an insurance broker so you’ve have had an unconventional career so far. Why and how did you become a fashion designer?
As a young girl, approved treatment I wanted to be a fashion designer, shop but life has its twists and turns and I found myself caught up in the rat race for eleven years. I lacked passion for my work but I didn’t know how I would cope without my luxuries and the next pay rise. Then I had the opportunity to backpack around the world for six months with my best friend and for the first time in my adult life I realised that I could live on a budget. I started to see life in a different light, with endless opportunities. Whilst in Tokyo, something happened to me: I was surrounded by the most amazing boutiques and I was like a child in a sweet shop. Mesmerised. Excited. Totally inspired. I realised that I needed to make radical changes to my lifestyle in order to make my dreams a reality and I haven’t looked back since. I graduated from the London College of Fashion with a BA(Hons) in Fashion, Design and Technology in 2008. During my final year, I was involved in a project based around ‘saving the earth’. I was hooked. Fashion with a TRUE meaning, for me, is the only way, and my ethos helps me to focus and push forward.

Beautiful Soul A/W 2010 by Zarina Liew
Beautiful Soul by Zarina Liew

Why did you decide to specialise in creating adjustable garments?
I set out to create timeless designs that will be favoured pieces in the wardrobe for a lifetime and multi-functionality renders a garment timeless, as it can be worn to suit different moods and seasons. A woman’s curves change regularly and it’s frustrating when a zip or button will not close. I therefore avoid using conventional fastening in my designs and instead explore alternative methods. I love to experiment and delve below the surface of fashion, discovering new ways to incorporate responsibility through use of distinctive materials and design innovation.

What does your zero waste policy mean in practicality?
I am extremely fond of fabric and I hate to see it go to waste! I upcycle vintage kimonos to create new garments that hold a greater value; when I dismantle a kimono I am left with very limited panels of fabric, only 38cm wide. It’s important that I work with these restrictions and nurture an understanding of the fabric availability. Any leftover fabric will be placed aside and then revisited the following season, where I set myself the challenge of designing a new piece based on the leftovers. I have just designed Beautiful Soul’s third collection, S/S 2011’s Believe, and the leftover fabrics have been transformed into a range of unique corsets and shoulders pads in our menswear jackets. Material remnants feature as fastenings and embellishments, adhering to the policy of zero waste whereby every last thread of fabric is used in the creative process….


Beautiful Soul SS:11 Believe was created with Zarina Liew after she made contact with Nicola Woods to complete her submission to be in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration. Music was provided by Amelia’s Magazine favourite Gabby Young and Other Animals.

Read the rest of this interview and see more illustrations of Beautiful Soul’s clothing in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration, alongside interviews with 44 other ethical fashion designers and 30 fabulous fashion illustrators. You can buy the book here.

Categories ,Beautiful Soul, ,Eco fashion, ,Ethical designer, ,Gabby Young and Other Animals, ,Kimono, ,London College of Fashion, ,Nicola Woods, ,tokyo, ,Zarina Liew

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