Off Out Of Schedule – AmeliasMagazine

Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland S/S 2012 in Łódź: Gala Dyplomowa Show at Andels

Dominika Naziebly by Joanne Oatts
Dominika Naziebly A/W 2010 by Joanne Oatts.

On Thursday night Andels Hotel hosted the Gala Graduate show of the Academy of Fine Arts, otherwise known as the Gala Dyplomowa, featuring top graduate fashion talent. We were ushered to the top floor of the hotel where the warehouse has retained its original huge proportions, big enough for a catwalk and plenty of seating. An utterly fabulous venue, and very convenient too…

Here, in alphabetical order (cos that’s the way it rolls) are the designers that showed:

Adriana Grudzinska KC Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory

Adrianna Grudzinska showed Polacz Kropki (Slow Up) – swing dresses and pleated separates in shades of camel, mushroom and peach.

Aleksandra Kmieci Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012 photo by Amelia Gregory

Aleksandra Kmiecik Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012 photo by Amelia Gregory

Kobieta Symetryczna featured sharp tailoring in white, black and beige with highlights in red slashes by Aleksandra Kmiecik, who also shows on the main schedule. I saw parts of this collection last season and you can read my review here.

Alicja Antoszczyk Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory

Gala graduate designer Alicja Antoszczyk showed as part of the Golden Thread Awards last season, so I instantly recognised her sleek rubberised garments, layered in sophisticated shades. The collection is called Zawsze Jest Jakie’s Ale: intriguing!

Dominika Naziebly Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory

Eco designer Dominika Naziebly also showed at the Golden Thread Awards: my favourite was wheeled out once again, a stunning red puffball dress. This season she also showed on the Off Out Of Schedule catwalk, review to come shortly.

Elzbieta Kapczynska KC Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory

Zip details and drop crotches were the order of the day at Elzbieta Kapczynska-KC, with a collection titled Zbroja Miejska.

Magdalena Zajaczkowska Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory

Magdalena Zajaczkowska by Geiko Louve.

Magdalena Zajaczkowska‘s collection was called Sploty I Przeploty, meaning Pleats and Intertwines. She showed oversized and bulbous knitwear in slate and dark jewel colours.

Martyna Idzikowsk Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory

Martyna Idzikowska showed a reprise of her innovative collection shown at the Golden Thread Awards – incredible layers of white fabrics created egg-like silhouettes, emphasised with blood red underlayers.

Olga Mieloszyk Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory

Olga Mieloszyk by Novemto Komo.

Not speaking a word of Polish, I can’t be entirely sure, but I think that Olga Mieloszyk won the main award. Her Oranzeria collection was amongst my favourites: beautiful and wearable womens and menswear with intricate frills, panelling and pleated details in shades of orange and browns.

Karolina Glaguta Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory

All photography by Amelia Gregory.

The show ended with a beautiful selection of sculpted evening dresses in sweetie shades by Karolina Glegula, except I am not sure I wrote down her name correctly: I did my best by squinting at the screen behind the catwalk since there was no information in written form to take away.

Find out more about the Golden Thread Awards in my previous blog post: it was certainly a night to remember: two solid hours of catwalk show!

Written by Amelia Gregory on Wednesday November 2nd, 2011 1:00 pm

Categories ,A/W 2011, ,Academy of Fine Arts, ,Adrianna Grudzinska, ,Aleksandra Kmiecik, ,Alicja Antoszczyk, ,Andels, ,Coats, ,Dominika Naziebly, ,Eco fashion, ,Elzbieta Kapczynska, ,Evening Wear, ,Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland, ,Gala Dyplomowa, ,Gala Show, ,Geiko Louve, ,Golden Thread Awards, ,Joanne Oatts, ,Karolina Glegula, ,knitwear, ,Kobieta Symetryczna, ,Lodz, ,Magdalena Zajaczkowska, ,Martyna Idzikowska, ,Novemto Komo, ,Off Out Of Schedule, ,Olga Mieloszyk, ,Oranzeria, ,Pleats and Intertwines, ,Polacz Kropki (Slow Up), ,Sploty i Przeploty, ,Zawsze Jest Jakie’s Ale, ,Zbroja Miejska

Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland Off Out Of Schedule S/S 2012 in Łódź: Dominika Naziebly

Dominika Naziebly by Rebecca Higgins.

Having won the Golden Thread Awards earlier this year, Dominika Naziebly stepped up to the mark with another beautiful ethically produced collection that used eco fabrics such as bamboo, organic cotton and recycled materials.

Dominika Naziebly Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Dominika Naziebly backstage before the show. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

For Cold Summer Dominika Naziebly looked at the ‘quiet combinations of forms and colours‘ to create an elegant collection centred on shades of mushroom and cream. Longer dresses were shredded to give texture, and over-sized eyelets were applied to the sheerest of tops and bottom bearing skintight shorts. The romantic garments had a decidedly modern edge, accessorised with imitation wood clutches and totes. You can see Dominika Naziebly’s previous A/W 2011 collection paraded in the Gala Dyplomowa Show.

Dominika Naziebly Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory

Written by Amelia Gregory on Tuesday November 8th, 2011 5:46 pm

Categories ,Dominika Naziebly, ,Eco fashion, ,Eyelets, ,Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland, ,Golden Thread Awards, ,Lodz, ,Off Out Of Schedule, ,Organic Cotton, ,Rebecca Higgins, ,recycled, ,S/S 2012, ,sustainable

Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland Off Out Of Schedule S/S 2012 in Łódź: Jarosław Ewert

Jaroslaw Ewert S/S 2012 by Joanne Oatts.

I raced to my first Off Out Of Schedule show at Fashion Week Poland as soon as I had got off the plane and dropped my suitcase at Andels. With dark eyes, paint splatters and tailored detailing in relaxed grey fabrics, Jarosław Ewert showed a typically Polish aesthetic for men and women alike, with eyelets and asymmetrical cuts providing extra interest for both. The last outfit came with a spike hemmed waistcoat in royal blue, a colour which the designer himself clearly favours.

Jaroslaw Ewert Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography Amelia Gregory

Jaroslaw Ewert S/S 2012. All photography Amelia Gregory.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Tuesday November 1st, 2011 1:52 pm

Categories ,Andel’s Hotel, ,Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland, ,Jarosław Ewert, ,Joanne Oatts, ,Lodz, ,Off Out Of Schedule

Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland Off Out Of Schedule S/S 2012 in Łódź: Karolina Gerlich

Karolina Gerlich Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography Amelia Gregory
Fashion_Week_Polan Karolina_Gelich_by_novemto_komo
Karolina Gerlich S/S 2012 by Novemto Komo.

Karolina Gerlich was last to show at the Off Out Of Schedule shows on Thursday, with a confident collection based on the idea of a fantasy island where a perfect mix of cultures exists: hence references to kimonos in relaxed dresses with tie waists worn over blouson pants. Leggings and prints came with a camouflage/animal vibe, worn with sharp red heels. Asymmetric cuts brought together fabrics in a wonderful colour palette of coral, jade, cream and navy blue. I’d say this paradise owes a lot to the 80s – no bad thing in my book. Karolina Gerlich‘s logo is her favourite creature, a cute line drawn owl.

Karolina Gerlich Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography Amelia Gregory

Karolina Gerlich S/S 2012. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Tuesday November 1st, 2011 2:46 pm

Categories ,80s, ,Animal Print, ,Assymetrical, ,Exotic, ,Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland, ,Karolina Gerlich, ,Kimonos, ,Leggings, ,Lodz, ,Novemto Komo, ,Off Out Of Schedule, ,owls, ,Patterned, ,Red Heels

Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland Off Out Of Schedule S/S 2012 in Łódź: Lukasz Stachowicz

Lukasz Stachowicz SS 2012 by Joanne Oatts
Lukasz Stachowicz S/S 2012 by Joanne Oatts.

Kraków based Lukasz Stachowicz showed a real winner of a collection: presented in an intriguing manner that culminated in a staged tableau. Titled Robinson, he took inspiration from a subsistence lifestyle that was accessorised with real fish, their bloody guts dripping down the catwalk. Crayfish were strung in decorative manner around necks, knitwear featured giant bees and fly fishing hooks stood in as scarf pins. Book-ending the models was a lad with a burning torch, who lit a mock fire in the centre which the models gathered around. Garments were rendered in shades of cream and beige, with rope details on shoulders and waist. I particularly liked a delicate fish print that appeared on swing skirts, shorts and shirts. The headwraps worn by girls were an echo of that worn by the musician, who played enigmatic notes to accompany Robinson on a flattened circular tin drum.

Lukasz Stachowicz by Lesley T Spencer.

In researching Lukasz Stachowicz I have realised that I didn’t see his show last season but I had been most impressed by the clothes he presented on his stand at Fashion Week Poland. How fitting then that I should delight so much in his next collection too.

Lukasz Stachowicz Fashion Week Poland SS 2012 photography by Amelia Gregory

Lukasz Stachowicz S/S 2012. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Video by Systeme D.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Thursday November 3rd, 2011 8:05 pm

Categories ,Cracow, ,Crayfish, ,Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland, ,Fire, ,Fish Hooks, ,Joanne Oatts, ,Krakow, ,Lesley T Spencer, ,Lodz, ,Lukasz Stachowicz, ,Off Out Of Schedule, ,Robinson, ,S/S 2012, ,Systeme D, ,Systeme_D

Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland Off Out Of Schedule S/S 2012 in Łódź: Magdalena Kubalanca

Magdalena Kubalanca Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia gregory
Magdalena Kubalanca S/S 2012. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Magdalena Kubalanca‘s show featured some fabulous Geisha inspired make up with winged eyebrows as an accessory to the collection. Hair was tied in either one or two topknots (loved the Minnie Mouse effect) and Japanese dolls swung low on cords around the neck. For S/S 2012 Magdalena Kubalanca has created a strong series of outfits: a combination of structured coats and loosely draped jersey dresses with strategic holes to show a bit of tempting flesh on the waist and arms: all in a palette of pale grey blue, glossy brown, deep navy and red.

Magdalena Kubalanca Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia gregory

Written by Amelia Gregory on Thursday November 3rd, 2011 11:07 am

Categories ,Cut Out, ,Draped, ,Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland, ,Geisha, ,japanese, ,Lodz, ,Magdalena Kubalanca, ,Off Out Of Schedule, ,structured

Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland Off Out Of Schedule S/S 2012 in Łódź: Maldoror

Maldoror S/S 2012 by Melissa Angelik.

Maldoror is an off schedule favourite who cuts a dashing figure with wiry red hair in a ponytail. Shrouded in medieval-esque garments, he’s a great advert for his own clothing range. This season Maldoror drew from ideas of the Virgin Mary in medieval literature and the simplicity of clothing worn by religious fanatics such as hermits and flagellants. The resulting look is best described as medieval gothic, with huge shrouded hoods, drawstring waists, boxy loose shapes and rope ties much in evidence. Shiny polyester, lurex thread and sweaters knitted from old VHS tapes provided glistening texture in an otherwise totally black collection. Read my review of the A/W 2011 Maldoror collection here.

Maldoror Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory

Maldoror S/S 2012. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Tuesday November 8th, 2011 6:46 pm

Categories ,black, ,Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland, ,knitwear, ,Lodz, ,Lurex, ,Maldoror, ,medieval, ,Melissa Angelik, ,menswear, ,Off Out Of Schedule, ,Shrouds, ,VHS tapes, ,Virgin Mary

Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland Off Out Of Schedule S/S 2012 in Łódź: Marcin Podsiadło

Marcin Podsiadlo Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Marcin Podsiadlo S/S 2012. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

An already popular apocalyptic theme was tackled by Marcin Podsiadło, who pumped lots of cough inducing dry ice onto the catwalk to create an appropriate atmosphere for a collection based on destruction and in particular the conflicts of the Middle East. Hoods and face coverings obscured features still further and prints on t-shirts featured broiling explosions, fire balls searing the sky. The collection was accessorised with chunky perspex armlets and necklaces by Luca Romanyi. Marcin Podsiadło is based in London, having studied at the University for the Creative Arts in the UK: read my review of his previous show here.

Marcin Podsiadlo Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory

Written by Amelia Gregory on Tuesday November 8th, 2011 6:16 pm

Categories ,apocalypse, ,Destruction, ,Dry Ice, ,Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland, ,Lodz, ,Luca Romanyi, ,Marcin Podsiadło, ,Off Out Of Schedule, ,University for the Creative Arts, ,war

Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland Off Out Of Schedule S/S 2012 in Łódź: Martyna Czerwinska

Martyna Czerwinska by Cruz
Martyna Czerwinska S/S 2012 by Cruz.

Martyna Czerwinska was first to show on the Off Out Of Schedule catwalk on Friday morning bright and early. Her show was set to an old-school silhouette dance and featured plenty of elegant dresses that would be fit for an afternoon tea dance. Long dresses with inset patchwork fishtail trains were off set by the shortest of shorts, in velvet and patchwork. Men wore dashing patterned shirts with skinny ties and curious pink mountain brooches, but the stand out outfit for men was a dashing mustard zig-zag suit worn with a casual t-shirt underneath.

Martyna Czerwinska by Sarah Jayne Draws
Martyna Czerwinska S/S 2012 by SarahJayneDraws aka Sarah Jayne Morris.

Martyna Czerwinska Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory

Martyna Czerwinska S/S 2012. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Wednesday November 2nd, 2011 2:17 pm

Categories ,Cruz, ,dance, ,Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland, ,Lodz, ,Martyna Czerwinska, ,menswear, ,Off Out Of Schedule, ,Patchwork, ,Sarah Jayne Morris

Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland Off Out Of Schedule S/S 2012 in Łódź: Paulina Plizga

Paulina Plizga S/S 2012 by Cruz.

For her S/S 2012 collection Paulina Plizga was inspired by dance, so leading the Flesh & Bone collection down the catwalk was contemporary dancer Kaya Kolodziejczyk, who threw a series of crazy shapes in front of the unsuspecting crowd. The next models walked at a stately pace, some fast, some two by two or in hand – the back lighting emphasised their tousled hair and their blackened eye sockets gave the classical ballet aesthetic a dark, distressed edge. Paulina Plizga showed us a predominantly white collection with intermissions of grey, ochre and black in a range of textures, from holey knits and ancient lace to patchworked fabrics and reappropriated sheers.

Paulina Plizga SS 2012 by Geiko Louve
Paulina Plizga S/S 2012 by Geiko Louve.

When I spoke with Paulina Plizga after the show she described how all of her outfits are constructed from scraps which she forages from the couture houses in Paris (where she lives) and these are mixed with antique laces that she finds in markets. For relaxation she likes nothing better than to go to the cinema, and so recent viewings of Black Swan, The Red Shoes and Pina Bausch films helped form ideas for S/S 2012, along with the Greek story of Pygmalion, wherein a statue comes to life. This was a welcome second chance for me to view Paulina Plizga’s clever design aesthetics; read my review of Paulina Plizga‘s previous A/W 2011 collection here.

Paulina Plizga Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory

Paulina Plizga S/S 2012. All photography by Amelia Gregory.