Off Out Of Schedule – AmeliasMagazine

Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland S/S 2012 in Łódź: Gala Dyplomowa Show at Andels

Dominika Naziebly by Joanne Oatts
Dominika Naziebly A/W 2010 by Joanne Oatts.

On Thursday night Andels Hotel hosted the Gala Graduate show of the Academy of Fine Arts, otherwise known as the Gala Dyplomowa, featuring top graduate fashion talent. We were ushered to the top floor of the hotel where the warehouse has retained its original huge proportions, big enough for a catwalk and plenty of seating. An utterly fabulous venue, and very convenient too…

Here, in alphabetical order (cos that’s the way it rolls) are the designers that showed:

Adriana Grudzinska KC Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory

Adrianna Grudzinska showed Polacz Kropki (Slow Up) – swing dresses and pleated separates in shades of camel, mushroom and peach.

Aleksandra Kmieci Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012 photo by Amelia Gregory

Aleksandra Kmiecik Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012 photo by Amelia Gregory

Kobieta Symetryczna featured sharp tailoring in white, black and beige with highlights in red slashes by Aleksandra Kmiecik, who also shows on the main schedule. I saw parts of this collection last season and you can read my review here.

Alicja Antoszczyk Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory

Gala graduate designer Alicja Antoszczyk showed as part of the Golden Thread Awards last season, so I instantly recognised her sleek rubberised garments, layered in sophisticated shades. The collection is called Zawsze Jest Jakie’s Ale: intriguing!

Dominika Naziebly Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory

Eco designer Dominika Naziebly also showed at the Golden Thread Awards: my favourite was wheeled out once again, a stunning red puffball dress. This season she also showed on the Off Out Of Schedule catwalk, review to come shortly.

Elzbieta Kapczynska KC Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory

Zip details and drop crotches were the order of the day at Elzbieta Kapczynska-KC, with a collection titled Zbroja Miejska.

Magdalena Zajaczkowska Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory

Magdalena Zajaczkowska by Geiko Louve.

Magdalena Zajaczkowska‘s collection was called Sploty I Przeploty, meaning Pleats and Intertwines. She showed oversized and bulbous knitwear in slate and dark jewel colours.

Martyna Idzikowsk Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory

Martyna Idzikowska showed a reprise of her innovative collection shown at the Golden Thread Awards – incredible layers of white fabrics created egg-like silhouettes, emphasised with blood red underlayers.

Olga Mieloszyk Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory

Olga Mieloszyk by Novemto Komo.

Not speaking a word of Polish, I can’t be entirely sure, but I think that Olga Mieloszyk won the main award. Her Oranzeria collection was amongst my favourites: beautiful and wearable womens and menswear with intricate frills, panelling and pleated details in shades of orange and browns.

Karolina Glaguta Gala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory

All photography by Amelia Gregory.

The show ended with a beautiful selection of sculpted evening dresses in sweetie shades by Karolina Glegula, except I am not sure I wrote down her name correctly: I did my best by squinting at the screen behind the catwalk since there was no information in written form to take away.

Find out more about the Golden Thread Awards in my previous blog post: it was certainly a night to remember: two solid hours of catwalk show!

Written by Amelia Gregory on Wednesday November 2nd, 2011 1:00 pm

Categories ,A/W 2011, ,Academy of Fine Arts, ,Adrianna Grudzinska, ,Aleksandra Kmiecik, ,Alicja Antoszczyk, ,Andels, ,Coats, ,Dominika Naziebly, ,Eco fashion, ,Elzbieta Kapczynska, ,Evening Wear, ,Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland, ,Gala Dyplomowa, ,Gala Show, ,Geiko Louve, ,Golden Thread Awards, ,Joanne Oatts, ,Karolina Glegula, ,knitwear, ,Kobieta Symetryczna, ,Lodz, ,Magdalena Zajaczkowska, ,Martyna Idzikowska, ,Novemto Komo, ,Off Out Of Schedule, ,Olga Mieloszyk, ,Oranzeria, ,Pleats and Intertwines, ,Polacz Kropki (Slow Up), ,Sploty i Przeploty, ,Zawsze Jest Jakie’s Ale, ,Zbroja Miejska

Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland Off Out Of Schedule S/S 2012 in Łódź: Martyna Czerwinska

Martyna Czerwinska by Cruz
Martyna Czerwinska S/S 2012 by Cruz.

Martyna Czerwinska was first to show on the Off Out Of Schedule catwalk on Friday morning bright and early. Her show was set to an old-school silhouette dance and featured plenty of elegant dresses that would be fit for an afternoon tea dance. Long dresses with inset patchwork fishtail trains were off set by the shortest of shorts, in velvet and patchwork. Men wore dashing patterned shirts with skinny ties and curious pink mountain brooches, but the stand out outfit for men was a dashing mustard zig-zag suit worn with a casual t-shirt underneath.

Martyna Czerwinska by Sarah Jayne Draws
Martyna Czerwinska S/S 2012 by SarahJayneDraws aka Sarah Jayne Morris.

Martyna Czerwinska Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory

Martyna Czerwinska S/S 2012. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Wednesday November 2nd, 2011 2:17 pm

Categories ,Cruz, ,dance, ,Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland, ,Lodz, ,Martyna Czerwinska, ,menswear, ,Off Out Of Schedule, ,Patchwork, ,Sarah Jayne Morris

Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland Off Out Of Schedule S/S 2012 in Łódź: Paulina Plizga

Paulina Plizga S/S 2012 by Cruz.

For her S/S 2012 collection Paulina Plizga was inspired by dance, so leading the Flesh & Bone collection down the catwalk was contemporary dancer Kaya Kolodziejczyk, who threw a series of crazy shapes in front of the unsuspecting crowd. The next models walked at a stately pace, some fast, some two by two or in hand – the back lighting emphasised their tousled hair and their blackened eye sockets gave the classical ballet aesthetic a dark, distressed edge. Paulina Plizga showed us a predominantly white collection with intermissions of grey, ochre and black in a range of textures, from holey knits and ancient lace to patchworked fabrics and reappropriated sheers.

Paulina Plizga SS 2012 by Geiko Louve
Paulina Plizga S/S 2012 by Geiko Louve.

When I spoke with Paulina Plizga after the show she described how all of her outfits are constructed from scraps which she forages from the couture houses in Paris (where she lives) and these are mixed with antique laces that she finds in markets. For relaxation she likes nothing better than to go to the cinema, and so recent viewings of Black Swan, The Red Shoes and Pina Bausch films helped form ideas for S/S 2012, along with the Greek story of Pygmalion, wherein a statue comes to life. This was a welcome second chance for me to view Paulina Plizga’s clever design aesthetics; read my review of Paulina Plizga‘s previous A/W 2011 collection here.

Paulina Plizga Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory

Paulina Plizga S/S 2012. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Friday November 4th, 2011 10:21 pm

Categories ,ballet, ,Black Swan, ,couture, ,Cruz, ,dance, ,Eco fashion, ,Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland, ,Flesh & Bone, ,Geiko Louve, ,Kaya Kolodziejczyk, ,knitwear, ,Lodz, ,Off Out Of Schedule, ,paris, ,Patchwork, ,Paulina Plizga, ,Pina Bausch, ,Pygmalion, ,recycled, ,Red Shoes, ,Sheer, ,The Red Shoes, ,Upcycled

Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland Off Out Of Schedule S/S 2012 in Łódź: Sylwia Rochala

Sylwia Rochala S/S 2012 by Rebecca Higgins.

It was an early Sunday morning start for Sylwia Rochala, who showed a small collection that encompassed the trend for double length skirts, created with gauzy layers of fabric. Sharp tailoring was combined with floaty chiffon and sheer panels with cutaway details were used with a bold monochrome splash fabric. The X-Ray collection was inspired by ‘the idea of the human body being a duality of thin, transparent skin and the heavy organism that lies beneath it.‘ Ponytailed models sported heavy silver lips and red heels were a nice touch. Red shoes are always good!

Sylwia Rochala Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory

Sylwia Rochala S/S 2012. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Wednesday November 9th, 2011 4:28 pm

Categories ,Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland, ,Lodz, ,Off Out Of Schedule, ,Rebecca Higgins, ,Red Shoes, ,S/S 2012, ,Sheer, ,X-ray

Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland Off Out Of Schedule A/W 2011 in Łódź: Konrad Parol

Konrad-Parol-by-Victoria-Haynes
Konrad Parol A/W 2011 by Victoria Haynes.

Konrad Parol had a slot upstairs in the beautiful old power plant hall, side effects with colourful vaulted windows more suited to a church than an industrial plant. This was an edgy Parisian/Belgium look that featured lots of black – it clearly has commercial potential. In the UK Konrad Parol is in fact stocked by Not Just a Label. To the sounds of an industrial gothic medieval soundtrack boys emerged two at a time with slicked back hair and pale skin. There was some clever touches – orange highlights and flashes of tartan underlining on a girl’s cape and on the back of a boy’s jacket, symptoms DMs with bristle tops. The laced top for a boy was a bit questionable but there were some interesting corsetry features on a mini cape for girls. A crusader-esque face covering capelet ended the show on a surreal note.

Konrad Parol Off Out ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia Gregory
Konrad Parol A/W 2011. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Monday May 23rd, 2011 10:13 pm

Categories ,Bielnik and Elektrownia, ,black, ,corsetry, ,DMs, ,Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland, ,Fashion Week Poland, ,gothic, ,Industrial, ,Konrad Parol, ,Lodz, ,medieval, ,Not Just a Label, ,Off Out Of Schedule, ,Parisian, ,Podsiadło Ksiezy Mlyn, ,Tartan, ,Victoria Haynes

Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland Off Out Of Schedule A/W 2011 in Łódź: Maldoror

Maldoror Off Out ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011 by Fawn Carr
Maldoror A/W 2011 by Fawn Carr.

The hissing sighs of Diamandas Galas provided the musical backdrop to this edgy show from Maldoror by Grzegorz Matl?g, pills which featured street cast models who I had seen around already in the audience at Fashion Week Poland – a refreshing change from the same old faces on every catwalk. Black outfits opened the show, high necked and lacy for both men and women, culminating in a butt revealing suit made entirely of net. Grzegorz Matl?g works with recycled materials, his aim being to challenge the wearer “to create their own look without the cultural restraints and defects of consumerism.” High ideals indeed, and ones which I of course heartily applaud.

Maldoror by Rebecca Strickson.

Things really started hotting up for me with the introduction of bright devilish red. I particularly loved the short-legged man’s red silk shantung suit paired with shiny red loafers and tied loosely at the waist, followed by a round shouldered coat for women and two interesting sequinned patchwork pieces.

Maldoror Off Out ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia Gregory

Maldoror had constructed some stunning garments for this show but as was true of many other Polish collections successful ideas were not developed to their full potential with The Accuser – which was a shame because I love what he is doing. The show ended to the sound of clanging bells, again. A sound which was done to death at Fashion Week Poland, but which was just about justified in this case. Maldoror is available in the UK at Not Just a Label.

Maldoror Off Out ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia Gregory
Maldoror A/W 2011. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Monday May 30th, 2011 9:53 pm

Categories ,bells, ,black, ,Diamandas Galas, ,Eco fashion, ,Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland, ,Fashion Week Poland, ,Fawn Carr, ,Grzegorz Matląg, ,Lodz, ,Maldoror, ,Not Just a Label, ,Off Out Of Schedule, ,Palgue Mass, ,Rebecca Strickson, ,recycled, ,Red, ,The Accuser, ,Upcycled

Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland Off Out Of Schedule A/W 2011 in Łódź: Marcin Podsiadło

Marcin-Podsiadlo-by-Victoria-Haynes
Marcin Podsiad?o by Victoria Haynes.

One feature of the Off Out Of Schedule shows at Fashion Week Poland was that no one checked tickets on the door and there was no one to usher in guests, what is ed meaning that seating was a free for all. I was a little late getting to this show as I’d been upstairs to check out the fashion photography exhibition (more on that later as I discovered some very good stuff) so I had to stand in a poor position, a bit exasperating when you’ve come all the way from London and it turns out that a good position is critical to capture the collection adequately. Marcin Podsiad?o showed black fabric geometric headpieces that completely dominated the all black outfits, meaning that in fact I couldn’t really tell you much about them. Far more successful, as styling goes, were the black blocked lips.

Marcin Podsiadlo Off Out ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011 photography by Amelia Gregory

I am sure there were some lovely and very wearable shapes in this show, but in general I always struggle with all black collections, especially when they are shown in such low lighting levels that it’s nearly impossible to make out any detail. I was most interested to discover that Marcin Podsiad?o studied at the University of the Creative Arts and I think he’s actually based in the UK. I wonder if he was roaming the corridors when I taught there?

Marcin Podsiadlo Off Out ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011 photography by Amelia Gregory
Marcin Podsiad?o A/W 2011. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Monday May 30th, 2011 1:36 pm

Categories ,black, ,geometric, ,headpieces, ,Marcin Podsiadło, ,Not Just a Label, ,Off Out Of Schedule, ,UCA, ,University of the Creative Arts, ,Victoria Haynes

Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland Off Out Of Schedule A/W 2011 in Łódź: Paulina Plizga

Paulina Plizga by Hannah Simpson.

The last of Saturday’s Off Out Of Schedule featured the work of Paulina Plizga from Silesia, viagra 100mg a graduate of the School of Fine Arts in Krakow.

Paulina Plizga by Hannah Simpson.

Blue smoke, chiming bells and booming bass beats set the atmosphere, but for some inexplicable reason the designer had decided it would be a good idea to dress each model at the head of the catwalk – thereby demonstrating the versatility of her recycled zippered creations, and ensuring that the show took a tediously long time. A garment was carefully removed from one model’s legs and reconvened as a cape on another. Maybe it had seemed like a good and innovative idea in rehearsals but in reality there was barely any light in the smokey gloom and it was a struggle to see what was going on… which made it even more tedious. The looped soundtrack didn’t help matters either.

Paulina Plizga ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011 photography by Amelia Gregory
Paulina Plizga A/W 2011. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Despite this I really liked Paulina Plizga‘s collection, which made effective use of upcycled fabrics to create a patchwork collection with ethics at its heart. It was also a rare example of intelligent and interesting styling: models were accessorised with cobwebbed face masks and bin bags on their feet, tangled threads dangling in chaotic patterns. It had real potential to wow.

Paulina Plizga ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011 photography by Amelia Gregory

Tighter! Faster! Please! Paulina Plizga is stocked in Paris, Tokyo and New York.

Paulina Plizga ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011 photography by Amelia Gregory
Paulina Plizga A/W 2011. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Monday May 23rd, 2011 10:47 pm

Categories ,Bielnik and Elektrownia, ,Eco fashion, ,Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland, ,Fashion Week Poland, ,gothic, ,Hannah Simpson, ,Krakow, ,new york, ,Off Out Of Schedule, ,paris, ,Patchwork, ,Paulina Plizga, ,Podsiadło Ksiezy Mlyn, ,recycled, ,School of Fine Arts, ,Silesia, ,tokyo, ,Upcycled, ,Zips

Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland Off Out Of Schedule A/W 2011 in Łódź: Wiola Wołczyńska

Wiola Wolczynska Lodz Fashion Week AW 2011 by Michalis Christodoulou
Wiola Wolczynska A/W 2011 by Michalis Christodoulou.

Wiola Wo?czy?ska kicked off the Off Out of Schedule on Saturday morning with a collection that was a taste of things to come… overly long and massively in need of a serious edit. There was nice styling with side swept hair and calf length socks, more about but it went on… forever… and most of the looks were incredibly similar.

Wiola Wolczynska ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photo by Amelia Gregory
Wiola Wo?czy?ska A/W 2011. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Then one model fell over due to ill-fitting shoes – which was again a precedent for other shows. But oh my was the setting amazing – all the Off Out Of Schedule shows took place in Bielnik and Elektrownia at Podsiad?o Ksiezy Mlyn – a ramshackle old textiles factory that is typical of the fantastic industrial architectural style of ?ód?. It really was a venue like no other I have seen. More photos of that to come…

Wiola Wolczynska ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photo by Amelia Gregory

Whilst I liked the draping, web subtle colouring and asymmetric shapes this show was overly commercial for an Off Schedule event and some of the fabrics appeared to be of poor quality – a big no no on the catwalk. It’s a shame because there really was the kernel of something special here, and if it was more finely refined I could see it appealing to more sophisticated fashion palettes in a jiffy. It’s perhaps no surprise to learn that Wiola Wo?czy?ska is a stylist as well as fashion designer, and has participated in a workshop with Central Saint Martins. She also won a heap of awards at last year’s Golden Thread.

Wiola Wolczynska ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photo by Amelia Gregory
Wiola Wo?czy?ska at ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011.

This is just a small selection of the enormous collection. My advice to Wiola Wo?czy?ska? Edit edit edit… and have a bit more fun. Go on! It’s your chance to wow…

Written by Amelia Gregory on Monday May 23rd, 2011 9:40 pm

Categories ,architecture, ,asymmetric, ,Bielnik and Elektrownia, ,Central Saint Martins, ,draping, ,Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland, ,Fashion Week Poland, ,Grey, ,Industrial, ,jersey, ,Lodz, ,Michalis Christodoulou, ,Off Out Of Schedule, ,Podsiadło Ksiezy Mlyn, ,poland, ,textiles, ,The Golden Thread, ,Wiola Wołczyńska

Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland Off Out Of Schedule S/S 2012 in Łódź: Dominika Naziebly

Dominika Naziebly by Rebecca Higgins.

Having won the Golden Thread Awards earlier this year, Dominika Naziebly stepped up to the mark with another beautiful ethically produced collection that used eco fabrics such as bamboo, organic cotton and recycled materials.

Dominika Naziebly Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Dominika Naziebly backstage before the show. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

For Cold Summer Dominika Naziebly looked at the ‘quiet combinations of forms and colours‘ to create an elegant collection centred on shades of mushroom and cream. Longer dresses were shredded to give texture, and over-sized eyelets were applied to the sheerest of tops and bottom bearing skintight shorts. The romantic garments had a decidedly modern edge, accessorised with imitation wood clutches and totes. You can see Dominika Naziebly’s previous A/W 2011 collection paraded in the Gala Dyplomowa Show.

Dominika Naziebly Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory