Amelia’s Magazine | Sheena Matheiken’s The Uniform Project

Glastonbury-June-2009-Climate Camp
Can it really be a year since the last Glastonbury? In 2009, viagra sale more about for the first time, Climate Camp was given it’s very own space in the Dragon Field just above the Craft Field as you wend your way down to Shangri La. This year we’re back to once again educate and entertain festival goers at our beautiful site only a few minutes walk from the Old Railway Line.

Glastonbury-June-2009-Climate Camp workshop
Glastonbury-June-2009-Climate Camp paddling pool
Glastonbury-June-2009-First Aid Kit
Workshops, at play, and First Aid Kit playing at the Climate Camp Tripod Stage in 2009.

In 2010 Climate Camp is targeting the Royal Bank of Scotland, which has been bailed out with £50 billion of public money that is now being used to finance the extraction of fossil fuels across the world, with no regard for climate change or the destruction of communities that it causes. We will be camping near the RBS global headquarters in Edinburgh, Scotland, between 19th-25th August, but in the meantime to find out more about why we decided to focus on RBS this year come along and take a look at our exhibition at Glastonbury, then pick up a copy of our Never Mind The Bankers newspaper to peruse over a cup of tea or share with friends. We will be running DIY screenprinting workshops where you can learn how to screenprint your clothing with an anti RBS slogan. Simply bring your own or print onto one of our tshirts or bags. A great activity for kids! There will also be a chance to take part in Tripod Training: Tripods are used to blockade and secure a space on a direct action protest; come find out how to put them up and climb them safely. Good fun, and no previous experience or skills required.

Glastonbury-June-2009-tripod training
Glastonbury-June-2009-tripod training
Tripod Training.

Then of course there is our fabulous music, poetry and comedy line up, put together by yours truly. Read on to find out who will be gracing our Tripod Stage…. Pyramid Stage eat your heart out, this is where the real talent is.

Green-Kite-Midnight
Green Kite Midnight.

When I wrote up about the Climate Camp presence at Glastonbury in 2009 in my blog I talked about my hope that my band Green Kite Midnight would be able to play as the Climate Camp house band in 2010, so I’m very excited to report that we will be doing daily gigs this year. Five years ago I co-founded the barndance troupe Cutashine out of a desire to make traditional collective dancing more fun: after all, what’s better than a dance where you get to meet other people and really work up a sweat?

YouTube Preview Image

With Cutashine I played at gigs all over Glastonbury for several years, then left to start Green Kite Midnight through my contacts in Climate Camp; a band that supports and plays at direct action protests. Our first gig was at the Climate Camp in Bishopsgate during the G20 in April last year, we played to 800 people at the Blackheath Climate Camp in August 2009, and more recently we went on a 10 day solidarity bike ride together to play gigs to support the struggle against the Shell gas pipeline at Rossport in Ireland. With myself as emcee (I’m a gobby shite, so turn your mind away from those boring barn dances you might have attended as a child) we can teach anyone how to barn dance, so please come and join us.

And now for the rest of our fabulous line-up:

anna log
Anna Log
My Luminaries
My Luminaries, photography by James Dean White.

On Thursday we kick off four days of renewably powered music with a fabulous folky female. Anna Log – singer with pop folk band We Aeronauts – will be doing a solo set accompanied by her trusty uke. After our first ceilidh Glastonbury Emerging Talent winners My Luminaries round the evening off with a special semi-acoustic set of their epic indie rock.

Kirsty Almeida
Kirsty Almeida
Danny and the Champions of the World
Danny and the Champions of the World

On Friday Kirsty Almeida opens for us with her bass heavy soulful Bayou blues, then we’re pleased to welcome the epic musical dreamscapes of Newislands, described as Pink Floyd meets Depeche Mode. After that it’s time for some other Climate Camp regulars, Danny Chivers, Claire Fauset and Merrick, to grace the stage with their “triple-headed tag team political poetry extravaganza”. They’re all friends of mine that I’ve seen perform before so I highly recommend their set, which will be repeated on Sunday afternoon. As a closer we have the country-tinged big band folk of Danny and the Champions of the World.

kyla la grange
Kyla la Grange
Patch William
Patch William
Dry the River
Dry the River

To kick the day off on Saturday we welcome an exclusive Glastonbury appearance from a talented newcomer with a stunning voice; Kyla La Grange creates soaring melodies and is nearing completion of her debut album. Then comes Patch William – the dreamy lovechild of Nick Drake and Jimi Hendrix, who are followed by the scuzzy rock sound of York boys The Federals, described as a cross between the White Stripes and The Beatles. Then, time for a very special guest. Following my interview with Robin Ince a few weeks he very kindly promised to come by and do us a *special secret set* which will be a must see for all comedy fans at the festival. Tell all your friends! And come on by for a very intimate set from this well known comedian. Dry the River end the day with their beautiful melodic folk, singing songs of religion, history and community to rival those of Fleet Foxes and Mumford & Sons.

Pete the Temp
Pete the Temp
Pete Lawrie
Pete Lawrie
Get Cape. Wear Cape. Fly.
Get Cape. Wear Cape. Fly.

On Sunday we’ve got another packed day to end the festival. Pete the Temp returns to wow us with his comedic eco-political music and spoken word, then we look forward to hearing the bittersweet gospel blues of latecomer Pete Lawrie, who confirmed just as our flyer had gone to print. I am particularly pleased to welcome Get Cape. Wear Cape. Fly. the official moniker of singer songwriter Sam Duckworth. He will be showcasing music from his new album due for release later this year, and I’ve got a soft spot for him because he appeared in the print version of Amelia’s Magazine. Robinson will play a gypsy cajun folk set before we round off the festival with our GRAND RAFFLE. If you see our outreach team out and about please give generously to support Climate Camp and come along to our grand prize giving, which will be hosted by the inimitable Danny Chivers.

Glastonbury-June-2009-Grand Raffle presented by Danny Chivers
The Grand Raffle presented by Danny Chivers in 2009.

Don’t forget to follow myself and Climate Camp on twitter to find out how the festival is going; we can always live in hope that 3G reception will be better than it was last year! But most of all, don’t forget to come and visit us… and bring your friends along with you. I will of course write up a full report on my return. For a reminder of what to expect read my blog from last year here.

For a map and full timing information for all bands and workshops see this listings page.


Illustration by Maryanne Oliver

School’s almost out for summer. Soon blazers and ties will be ditched, adiposity with delight, cost for butterfly-bright bathers; and mortar boards tossed in glee at graduations everywhere. Uniforms may seem the antithesis of lazy, check hazy holidays and fantastic futures, but in cyberspace there’s one – albeit self-imposed – uniform showing us there’s a wealth of creativity to be found in the economical and ethical capsule wardrobe.  Will the Uniform Project please stand up!

May 1st 2010 saw the Uniform Project graduate with flying colours. An “exercise in sustainability”, in 2009, one Sheena Matheiken had pledged to wear one Little Black Dress, everyday for one year, for the Akanksha Foundation – a not-for-profit organisation educating kids in Indian slums.  Sheena and designer friend Eliza Starbuck, created a LBD which could be worn front, back, undone, for every season and all occasions. And for anyone wondering, “When did she wash the blighter?” she had seven all the same; adapting and accessorising with trinkets and treasures found on eBay, Etsy, or donated by ethical designers, like London’s own, Goodone – oh, and Sheena’s mother! 

Throughout its daily blog posts, the UP showed us how to put individual style into sustainable dress. From Day 1, “Albeit the rain and the swine”, in “classic black form”, through homage to Michael Jackson chic on Day 57, an Indian Independence Day sari ensemble, even an ‘evil sea sprite’ costume on Halloween – “Sprite seaweed and ocean foliage made entirely from UP accessory donors’ packaging material” – the UP proved there was more creativity to be had in one LBD than the whole Haus of Gaga. Well almost. 

In fact the LBD became the perfect backdrop for designers to display their wares.  Day 191 saw Sheena sporting a cape by Raffaele Ascione, “handcrafted from a satin overthrow blanket his grandmother used to own.” A Central Saint Martins student keen to raise funds to support his MA, Ascione’s designs have been donned by Lady Gaga herself, and in donating pieces to the UP he’s gained a web-wide audience eager to lap up his ethical ingenuity.  


Illustration by Maryanne Oliver

With some 5,500 Twitter followers and even more Facebook fans the UP has created an on-line social network to be reckoned with. At a recent New York symposium, Sheena said some of the UP’s ideas, like LBD Fridays, where supporters, worldwide, wore their own LBD ‘uniforms’ in aid of the project, had come directly from the UP community. Philanthropy, she said, should be ‘fun’, “… it’s about engaging on an intimate level and creating awareness in a way that allows people to really be a part of the change you are instigating.” 

At the ‘end of term’ party the UP celebrated kitting out over 260 Indian children for school.  And in the true spirit of sustainable style its Head Girl, Sheena, graduated in a “ reclaimed, recycled, renovated and refashioned” LBD; signalling the future’s not just bright for the kids it has helped into education, but also for the UP itself. 

When Chanel declared the LBD  “the new uniform of modern women”, back in the 1920s, its simplicity symbolised freedom. Freedom from status anxiety and constrictive fashion – another uniform of sorts, only one we didn’t always knowingly sign up to. Perhaps because the perfect LBD is glorified as style’s holy grail the simplicity of its message is often lost amongst all-consuming fast fashion fads. But it’s this very simplicity which has made the UP so successful.  Thus the Uniform Project has proved to be a much needed less-on to us all, to “Aspire. Achieve. Be the change.” (Akanksha Foundation motto).  

Categories ,1920s, ,Akanksha Foundation, ,Central Saint Martins, ,chanel, ,ebay, ,Eliza Starbuck, ,etsy, ,Facebook, ,goodone, ,Hallowe’en, ,Helen Davis, ,India, ,Lady Gaga, ,LBD, ,Little Black Dress, ,london, ,Maryanne Oliver, ,Michael Jackson, ,new york, ,Philanthropy, ,Raffaele Ascione, ,Sheena Mathelken, ,sustainability, ,Sustainable Style, ,The Uniform Project, ,twitter

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Amelia’s Magazine | Graduate Fashion Week 2011 Gala Awards Show: Menswear

Andy_Bumpus_Carl_James_Illingworth
Carl James Illingworth by Andy Bumpus.

In some ways the menswear at the Graduate Fashion Week Gala Awards was more fun than the womenswear… particularly with the addition of a whacky white haired older male model who clearly thought the show was all about him. His over the top posing was certainly entertaining to photograph.

Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Carl James Illingworth 2011-photo Amelia GregoryGraduate Fashion Week Gala show Carl James Illingworth 2011-photo Amelia GregoryGraduate Fashion Week Gala show Carl James Illingworth 2011-photo Amelia Gregory
Carl James Illingworth of Northumbria University showed a great collection in black and grey with metallic highlights – studs, cure a crown and plenty of sequins giving a sparkly royal feel. Follow Carl James Illingworth on twitter.

Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Felix Wolodymyr ChablukSmith 2011--photo Amelia GregoryGraduate Fashion Week Gala show Felix Wolodymyr ChablukSmith 2011--photo Amelia GregoryGraduate Fashion Week Gala show Felix Wolodymyr ChablukSmith 2011--photo Amelia Gregory
Felix Wolodymyr Chabluk Smith from Edinburgh College of Art showed a very confident tailored collection. It was definitely the most obviously commercial collection: he won the menswear award.

Andy_Bumpus_Genevieve_Davroy
Genevieve Davroy by Andy Bumpus.

Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Genevieve Davroy 2011-Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Genevieve Davroy 2011-Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Genevieve Davroy 2011-Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Genevieve Davroy 2011-Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Genevieve Davroy 2011-
Genevieve Davroy of Kingston University showed brightly coloured felted shorts and interesting textured knitwear. I liked the combination of primary colours with muted grey.

Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Rose Dent 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Rose Dent 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Rose Dent 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Rose Dent 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Rose Dent 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Rose Dent 2011
From University of Manchester Rose Dent took inspiration from sportswear style – sending her models out with mesh bags of balls and big DENT branding brandished across chests and backs. There was lots of clashing coloured print on shirts and on tracksuits. Follow Rose Dent on twitter.

Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Wang Li Xuang 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Wang Li Xuang 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Wang Li Xuang 2011
Lastly Wang Li Xuang of Istituto Marangoni Milan went back to a more sombre colourway with oversized knitted capes and cowls – lovely stuff but the devil to photograph on such a dark catwalk.

It’s great to see some of those fashion designers above are on twitter, prescription but just one last word to graduating designers everywhere, both those who made it to the Gala Awards and those who didn’t or who are pursuing another creative avenue: make sure you use twitter to promote yourself! It’s such a valuable networking tool, and you’re wasting its potential if you just use it to gossip with friends. Leave that to your personal facebook profile – the whole world can see you on twitter, and you should be using it to present a professional image. Talk about your achievements, link to your website and make the most of its powerful ranking in search engines.

If you’d like to know more about how to make the best of social networking I’ll be teaching on the Fashion Bootcamp from the Centre for Fashion Enterprise on 9th-10th July. Find out more here and here.

Categories ,Andy Bumpus, ,Carl James Illingworth, ,Centre for Fashion Enterprise, ,Earls Court, ,Edinburgh College of Art, ,Facebook, ,Fashion Bootcamp, ,Felix Wolodymyr Chabluk Smith, ,Gala Awards, ,Genevieve Davroy, ,GFW, ,Graduate Fashion Week, ,Istituto Marangoni Milan, ,Kingston University, ,knitwear, ,Manchester School of Art, ,menswear, ,Northumbria University, ,Rose Dent, ,twitter, ,University of Manchester, ,Wang Li Xuang

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Amelia’s Magazine | Graduate Fashion Week Interview: Birmingham’s Joseph Turvey

Thumbnail Glastonbury

Illustration by Natasha T

There is no denying Glastonbury 2010 was a really special one. So if, sickness like me, thumb you are still feeling a touch of the post-festival blues read on and let us reminisce about some of the musical moments that made this years festival truly great.
 
In the weeks before the 40th Glastonbury there was an anticipation that everyone down on Worthy Farm would be pulling out all the stops. And sure enough, treatment ecstatic festival-goers arrived to a spruced up site; a beautiful patchwork sign spelling Glastonbury surveyed the beauty of the colossal site from its perch on the hill near The Park; a giant wicker man stood proudly in the middle of the stone circle; and a ravetastic new henge made from glowing cubes provided a place for guys and gals of Glastonbury to come and worship in the dance fields. I’m sure there was much much more but all this added to a general impression that Glasto 2010 was going to be bigger, brighter and better than ever before.

Then, of course, something really magical happened, something that no one could have predicted. The sun shined for the entire festival – and boy did it shine! Umbrellas found a novel new purpose in life protecting their owners not from rain but the unrelenting heat of the sun, and wellies remained slumped in dark corners of tents or abandoned by the very optimistic in cars.
 
As with the extra effort put into everything else, the line up was incredible — too good! Everyday my heart was broken a little as I realised that two, three or four of the bands I would have liked to have seen were on at the same time. The line-up was an eclectic music fan’s (such as myself’s) dream. Neatly summed up, of course, in the festival’s headline acts; Gorillaz, Muse and Stevie Wonder — three acts big enough to hold their own on the famous Pyramid Stage but definitely diverse in their musical stylings. I’m going to end on Stevie but first to another of his namesakes.


Illustration by Gareth Hopkins

Seasick Steve took to The Pyramid in what felt like one billion degree heat in the middle of the day on Saturday. The cider in my hand was hotter than the sun and doing nothing to quench my thirst but Seasick Steve was all the refreshment that the large crowd who had turned up to see him needed. He’s been on the summer festival circuit for a while now but his stripped-down act, wailing three string guitar, and songs about life on the streets in the USA were still as thrilling as ever. ‘Burning Up’ managed to sum up quite succinctly the general atmosphere among the sea of sweating fans but we all stayed with him despite the heat for his tremendous trademark finale of the ever-accelerating bluesy number ‘Dog House Boogie.’

 Then, later that day, Laura Marling’s gig provided one of the most memorable moments of festival. After a blissful and beautiful Saturday afternoon Marling emerged just as the bright ball-like orange sun dipped behind the trees. She said very little but the hush over The Park as everyone stopped to listen to her was such that my friend aimed a “Shhh” at a low flying helicopter above us. Her set was a combination of the now veritable folk standards from the old album such as ‘Ghosts’, ‘My Manic and I’ and the countrified ‘Alas I Cannot Swim’ and pretty ditties from new album I Speak Because I Can. She began ‘Blackberry Stone’ to whoops of delight from the crowd and by the end of the delicate guitar-based ballad from her latest work Laura had herself a few new fans and a boy at the front had himself a new fiancé. “I don’t know if you saw, but someone just proposed and got a good answer,” Marling told the mesmerised crowd.


Illustration by Donna McKenzie

 Mumford & Sons caused me a fair bit of heartache, an ill-timed arrival meant that I could barely get near the tent. Recently the Mumford boys have pretty much exploded — planting their banjo-touting and harmony-singing selves firmly at the forefront of the British antifolk scene. Their gig at the John Peel Stage was a monument to how popular they have become. The audience and, really endearingly, the band were completely overwhelmed. As their set saw some of the biggest sing- a-longs of the festival it was all the boys could do to steal glances at each other with looks of utter disbelief. The intimacy of their songs and acoustic nature was not lost among the huge crowd though — proving once and for all that these are folkies who really know how to rock. In fact many were left wondering why the boys had been billed for the John Peel and not The Other or West Holts Stages, they definitely proved they can draw a big enough crowd.


Illustration by Luke Waller

 Dizzee Rascal, a bit of a festival staple these days, was perhaps one of the only acts who could have drawn me away from the Mumfords. Ever the entertainer he bust out his best hits including ‘Bonkers’, ‘Holiday’, new one ‘Dirty Disco’ and a version of ‘Smells Like Teen Spirit’ — all unbeatable at geeing up a cider-fuelled rabble for a night of raging away in the dance fields, Shangri-La, their own tent, or whatever it might be. And, of course, his set wouldn’t have been complete without an appearance from Florence for ‘You Got the Dirty Love’ (her own gig on The Other Stage another massive festival highlight for many). After also appearing with The xx, Florence actually sung ‘You Got the Love’ three times this Glastonbury. In fact if you watched Florence at her gig and all her guest appearances and then went to see Candi Staton croon her way through her original version, you could have gotten a whole four renditions — I’m not sure that’s ever happened before at Glasto and surely that’s more than enough love for anybody?


Illustration by Abi Daker

 But it was Stevie Wonder who stole the show for many, proving that 50 odd years in the business only makes you more of a superstar not a washed-up one. Ripping a keytar to shreds, Wonder promised a night of celebrating Michael Jackson’s life as well as 40 years of Glastonbury. Now, I would never have bought a ticket to see Stevie Wonder play but clearly this was going to be a once in a lifetime experience and anyway, his music holds some pretty serious sway in our house (my Mum requested songs by Stevie to be played out on hospital radio after the births of me and my sister!) But even my friend, who couldn’t claim to be a Stevie Wonder fan — “I don’t know any of the songs, sing one to me!” — soon realised that basically everybody knows Stevie Wonder’s music. His songs are all around us and like some kind of musical oxygen have been seeping into our brains via osmosis since the dawn of time! Stevie unashamedly rattled through the biggest hits of his half century-long career, saving ‘Superstition’ until near the end of his set, unleashing a rapturous response among arguably the biggest crowd of the festival.
 
Then the ultimate finale to what has since been reported as the best Glastonbury ever, Stevie’s legendary soul interpretation of Happy Birthday. Glasto founder Michael Eavis was dragged out on stage and serenaded by the superstar — providing the ultimate warm fuzzy feeling in the stomachs of everyone who witnessed it. Even if Eavis’ singing was less than easy on the ears.
 


Illustration by Natasha Thompson

There is no denying Glastonbury 2010 was a really special one. So if, prescription like me, diagnosis you are still feeling a touch of the post-festival blues read on and let us reminisce about some of the musical moments that made this years festival truly great.
 
In the weeks before the 40th Glastonbury there was an anticipation that everyone down on Worthy Farm would be pulling out all the stops. And sure enough, ecstatic festival-goers arrived to a spruced up site; a beautiful patchwork sign spelling Glastonbury surveyed the beauty of the colossal site from its perch on the hill near The Park; a giant wicker man stood proudly in the middle of the stone circle; and a ravetastic new henge made from glowing cubes provided a place for guys and gals of Glastonbury to come and worship in the dance fields. I’m sure there was much much more but all this added to a general impression that Glasto 2010 was going to be bigger, brighter and better than ever before.

Then, of course, something really magical happened, something that no one could have predicted. The sun shined for the entire festival – and boy did it shine! Umbrellas found a novel new purpose in life protecting their owners not from rain but the unrelenting heat of the sun, and wellies remained slumped in dark corners of tents or abandoned by the very optimistic in cars.
 
As with the extra effort put into everything else, the line up was incredible — too good! Everyday my heart was broken a little as I realised that two, three or four of the bands I would have liked to have seen were on at the same time. The line-up was an eclectic music fan’s (such as myself’s) dream. Neatly summed up, of course, in the festival’s headline acts; Gorillaz, Muse and Stevie Wonder — three acts big enough to hold their own on the famous Pyramid Stage but definitely diverse in their musical stylings. I’m going to end on Stevie but first to another of his namesakes.


Illustration by Gareth Hopkins

Seasick Steve took to The Pyramid in what felt like one billion degree heat in the middle of the day on Saturday. The cider in my hand was hotter than the sun and doing nothing to quench my thirst but Seasick Steve was all the refreshment that the large crowd who had turned up to see him needed. He’s been on the summer festival circuit for a while now but his stripped-down act, wailing three string guitar, and songs about life on the streets in the USA were still as thrilling as ever. ‘Burning Up’ managed to sum up quite succinctly the general atmosphere among the sea of sweating fans but we all stayed with him despite the heat for his tremendous trademark finale of the ever-accelerating bluesy number ‘Dog House Boogie.’

 Then, later that day, Laura Marling’s gig provided one of the most memorable moments of festival. After a blissful and beautiful Saturday afternoon Marling emerged just as the bright ball-like orange sun dipped behind the trees. She said very little but the hush over The Park as everyone stopped to listen to her was such that my friend aimed a “Shhh” at a low flying helicopter above us. Her set was a combination of the now veritable folk standards from the old album such as ‘Ghosts’, ‘My Manic and I’ and the countrified ‘Alas I Cannot Swim’ and pretty ditties from new album I Speak Because I Can. She began ‘Blackberry Stone’ to whoops of delight from the crowd and by the end of the delicate guitar-based ballad from her latest work Laura had herself a few new fans and a boy at the front had himself a new fiancé. “I don’t know if you saw, but someone just proposed and got a good answer,” Marling told the mesmerised crowd.


Illustration by Donna McKenzie

 Mumford & Sons caused me a fair bit of heartache, an ill-timed arrival meant that I could barely get near the tent. Recently the Mumford boys have pretty much exploded — planting their banjo-touting and harmony-singing selves firmly at the forefront of the British antifolk scene. Their gig at the John Peel Stage was a monument to how popular they have become. The audience and, really endearingly, the band were completely overwhelmed. As their set saw some of the biggest sing- a-longs of the festival it was all the boys could do to steal glances at each other with looks of utter disbelief. The intimacy of their songs and acoustic nature was not lost among the huge crowd though — proving once and for all that these are folkies who really know how to rock. In fact many were left wondering why the boys had been billed for the John Peel and not The Other or West Holts Stages, they definitely proved they can draw a big enough crowd.


Illustration by Luke Waller

 Dizzee Rascal, a bit of a festival staple these days, was perhaps one of the only acts who could have drawn me away from the Mumfords. Ever the entertainer he bust out his best hits including ‘Bonkers’, ‘Holiday’, new one ‘Dirty Disco’ and a version of ‘Smells Like Teen Spirit’ — all unbeatable at geeing up a cider-fuelled rabble for a night of raging away in the dance fields, Shangri-La, their own tent, or whatever it might be. And, of course, his set wouldn’t have been complete without an appearance from Florence for ‘You Got the Dirty Love’ (her own gig on The Other Stage another massive festival highlight for many). After also appearing with The xx, Florence actually sung ‘You Got the Love’ three times this Glastonbury. In fact if you watched Florence at her gig and all her guest appearances and then went to see Candi Staton croon her way through her original version, you could have gotten a whole four renditions — I’m not sure that’s ever happened before at Glasto and surely that’s more than enough love for anybody?


Illustration by Abi Daker

 But it was Stevie Wonder who stole the show for many, proving that 50 odd years in the business only makes you more of a superstar not a washed-up one. Ripping a keytar to shreds, Wonder promised a night of celebrating Michael Jackson’s life as well as 40 years of Glastonbury. Now, I would never have bought a ticket to see Stevie Wonder play but clearly this was going to be a once in a lifetime experience and anyway, his music holds some pretty serious sway in our house (my Mum requested songs by Stevie to be played out on hospital radio after the births of me and my sister!) But even my friend, who couldn’t claim to be a Stevie Wonder fan — “I don’t know any of the songs, sing one to me!” — soon realised that basically everybody knows Stevie Wonder’s music. His songs are all around us and like some kind of musical oxygen have been seeping into our brains via osmosis since the dawn of time! Stevie unashamedly rattled through the biggest hits of his half century-long career, saving ‘Superstition’ until near the end of his set, unleashing a rapturous response among arguably the biggest crowd of the festival.
 
Then the ultimate finale to what has since been reported as the best Glastonbury ever, Stevie’s legendary soul interpretation of Happy Birthday. Glasto founder Michael Eavis was dragged out on stage and serenaded by the superstar — providing the ultimate warm fuzzy feeling in the stomachs of everyone who witnessed it. Even if Eavis’ singing was less than easy on the ears.
 


Illustration by Natasha Thompson

There is no denying Glastonbury 2010 was a really special one. So if, remedy like me, visit this site you are still feeling a touch of the post-festival blues read on and let us reminisce about some of the musical moments that made this years festival truly great.
 
In the weeks before the 40th Glastonbury there was an anticipation that everyone down on Worthy Farm would be pulling out all the stops. And sure enough, ecstatic festival-goers arrived to a spruced up site; a beautiful patchwork sign spelling Glastonbury surveyed the beauty of the colossal site from its perch on the hill near The Park; a giant wicker man stood proudly in the middle of the stone circle; and a ravetastic new henge made from glowing cubes provided a place for guys and gals of Glastonbury to come and worship in the dance fields. I’m sure there was much much more but all this added to a general impression that Glasto 2010 was going to be bigger, brighter and better than ever before.

Then, of course, something really magical happened, something that no one could have predicted. The sun shined for the entire festival – and boy did it shine! Umbrellas found a novel new purpose in life protecting their owners not from rain but the unrelenting heat of the sun, and wellies remained slumped in dark corners of tents or abandoned by the very optimistic in cars.
 
As with the extra effort put into everything else, the line up was incredible — too good! Everyday my heart was broken a little as I realised that two, three or four of the bands I would have liked to have seen were on at the same time. The line-up was an eclectic music fan’s (such as myself’s) dream. Neatly summed up, of course, in the festival’s headline acts; Gorillaz, Muse and Stevie Wonder — three acts big enough to hold their own on the famous Pyramid Stage but definitely diverse in their musical stylings. I’m going to end on Stevie but first to another of his namesakes.


Illustration by Gareth Hopkins

Seasick Steve took to The Pyramid in what felt like one billion degree heat in the middle of the day on Saturday. The cider in my hand was hotter than the sun and doing nothing to quench my thirst but Seasick Steve was all the refreshment that the large crowd who had turned up to see him needed. He’s been on the summer festival circuit for a while now but his stripped-down act, wailing three string guitar, and songs about life on the streets in the USA were still as thrilling as ever. ‘Burning Up’ managed to sum up quite succinctly the general atmosphere among the sea of sweating fans but we all stayed with him despite the heat for his tremendous trademark finale of the ever-accelerating bluesy number ‘Dog House Boogie.’

 Then, later that day, Laura Marling’s gig provided one of the most memorable moments of festival. After a blissful and beautiful Saturday afternoon Marling emerged just as the bright ball-like orange sun dipped behind the trees. She said very little but the hush over The Park as everyone stopped to listen to her was such that my friend aimed a “Shhh” at a low flying helicopter above us. Her set was a combination of the now veritable folk standards from the old album such as ‘Ghosts’, ‘My Manic and I’ and the countrified ‘Alas I Cannot Swim’ and pretty ditties from new album I Speak Because I Can. She began ‘Blackberry Stone’ to whoops of delight from the crowd and by the end of the delicate guitar-based ballad from her latest work Laura had herself a few new fans and a boy at the front had himself a new fiancé. “I don’t know if you saw, but someone just proposed and got a good answer,” Marling told the mesmerised crowd.


Illustration by Donna McKenzie

 Mumford & Sons caused me a fair bit of heartache, an ill-timed arrival meant that I could barely get near the tent. Recently the Mumford boys have pretty much exploded — planting their banjo-touting and harmony-singing selves firmly at the forefront of the British antifolk scene. Their gig at the John Peel Stage was a monument to how popular they have become. The audience and, really endearingly, the band were completely overwhelmed. As their set saw some of the biggest sing- a-longs of the festival it was all the boys could do to steal glances at each other with looks of utter disbelief. The intimacy of their songs and acoustic nature was not lost among the huge crowd though — proving once and for all that these are folkies who really know how to rock. In fact many were left wondering why the boys had been billed for the John Peel and not The Other or West Holts Stages, they definitely proved they can draw a big enough crowd.


Illustration by Luke Waller

 Dizzee Rascal, a bit of a festival staple these days, was perhaps one of the only acts who could have drawn me away from the Mumfords. Ever the entertainer he bust out his best hits including ‘Bonkers’, ‘Holiday’, new one ‘Dirty Disco’ and a version of ‘Smells Like Teen Spirit’ — all unbeatable at geeing up a cider-fuelled rabble for a night of raging away in the dance fields, Shangri-La, their own tent, or whatever it might be. And, of course, his set wouldn’t have been complete without an appearance from Florence for ‘You Got the Dirty Love’ (her own gig on The Other Stage another massive festival highlight for many). After also appearing with The xx, Florence actually sung ‘You Got the Love’ three times this Glastonbury. In fact if you watched Florence at her gig and all her guest appearances and then went to see Candi Staton croon her way through her original version, you could have gotten a whole four renditions — I’m not sure that’s ever happened before at Glasto and surely that’s more than enough love for anybody?


Illustration by Abi Daker

 But it was Stevie Wonder who stole the show for many, proving that 50 odd years in the business only makes you more of a superstar not a washed-up one. Ripping a keytar to shreds, Wonder promised a night of celebrating Michael Jackson’s life as well as 40 years of Glastonbury. Now, I would never have bought a ticket to see Stevie Wonder play but clearly this was going to be a once in a lifetime experience and anyway, his music holds some pretty serious sway in our house (my Mum requested songs by Stevie to be played out on hospital radio after the births of me and my sister!) But even my friend, who couldn’t claim to be a Stevie Wonder fan — “I don’t know any of the songs, sing one to me!” — soon realised that basically everybody knows Stevie Wonder’s music. His songs are all around us and like some kind of musical oxygen have been seeping into our brains via osmosis since the dawn of time! Stevie unashamedly rattled through the biggest hits of his half century-long career, saving ‘Superstition’ until near the end of his set, unleashing a rapturous response among arguably the biggest crowd of the festival.
 
Then the ultimate finale to what has since been reported as the best Glastonbury ever, Stevie’s legendary soul interpretation of Happy Birthday. Glasto founder Michael Eavis was dragged out on stage and serenaded by the superstar — providing the ultimate warm fuzzy feeling in the stomachs of everyone who witnessed it. Even if Eavis’ singing was less than easy on the ears.
 

Joseph Turvey created a storm at Graduate Fashion Week last month with his spooky mask-wearing leather-clad models, see compared to serial killers by our very own Jonno. I decided to let Joseph explain what they were all about, and have a chat with him about the rest of his collection – which, forgetting the masks for a second, is bloody good…

What was the process for being selected for the Graduate Fashion Week show? Did everybody from your university take part?
There were over 65 students from my university with only 12 places at GFW. The competition was fierce from the start. There were three different stages of the selection process with students being told they would not continue on to the next stage…a bit like the X Factor, haha!

What aspects of the collections did tutors focus on when making their selections for the final 12?
They looked at the concept behind each collection and how they would work on the runway, as well as the final finish and construction of the garments.

What do you get out of showing at GFW?
It’s an AMAZING feeling seeing your work go down the runway. After working so hard all year long it is the cherry on the cake! Plus if you are lucky you gain media attention and job opportunities. 

Had you shown your work anywhere before?
Never on this scale. It was my first experience of a professional catwalk show.

What drives you to work in fashion?
Fashion is everything and everywhere. Once you start you just can’t stop. It enables me to be creatively free. 

Did you take part in any internships during your course?
I have done some internships last summer, and i intend to take a year out and hopefully work a year in the industry, so i can gain a real understanding of what it takes to be a fashion designer.


What has inspired this collection?
The inspiration for this collection was Margaret Rutherford, the original Miss Marple, mixed with a world of fetishes and eroticism.

What is it about Margeret Rutherford and Miss Marple that inspired you?
I love how Margaret Rutherford managed to be completely tailored and stylish when playing Miss Marple. She didn’t dress in the stereotypical view of a women her age. She wore Classic Chanel-style tailoring, party dresses, sailors uniforms; a woman who had the perfect outfit for any occasion. I loved tackling aspects of her wardrobe and fusing them with studs, leather and rubber.

Your models wore some pretty eery masks. What was the concept behind these?
I love the masks…i have had rather a lot of attention over them. They are printed with Margaret Rutherford’s face… I like to think of them as my army of Miss Marples. The concept continues the idea of fetishes and identity. 

What techniques have you used and why?
There was alot of quilted tweed in my collection – i felt this gave the silhouette a ‘boxy’ feel, which compliments the tight rubber garments perfectly. 

You’ve been compared to Dior and Walter van Beirendonck – who else do you admire in the industry?
I think Mark Fast is amazing, his work is absolutely stunning. i love Katie Eary menswear and Jean-Charles de Castelbajac is a genius.

What kind of woman wears Joseph Turvey?
Strong, powerful, sexy and unafraid women.

What’s good about Birmingham?
From a university prospective it enabled me to develop my own design style, I was never told my ideas were too ‘out there’. I was guided into creating a collection that was concept driven and showed exactly who I am as a designer. Birmingham itself has a good student vibe…it is continually evolving into a more diverse city.

What do you have planned for the coming months? Did you manage to meet industry figures at GFW?
I am moving to London in September where i am working with stylist Nova Dando, and hopefully will be working with other designers. I then plan to do an MA in fashion the following September. 

How did working with Nova Dando come around?
My friend worked with her last summer, I used to go around in the evenings to help out with the Rainbow collection. It was an awesome time. I cant wait to go back.

What do you do when you aren’t thinking about or designing fashion?
I dont think there ever can be a time when I’m not thinking about fashion. I love reading, watching movies, being a typical tourist in London and drawing.

Do you use social networks?
i have a blog www.flashespast.blogspot.com and i am complete Facebook junkie.
 
What advice would you give to the students of GFW 2011, or fashion students in general?
1. Have a strong, concept-driven collection.
2. Be yourself.
3. Enjoy every minute of it.

Categories ,Birmingham University, ,catwalk, ,chanel, ,Dior, ,Facebook, ,fashion, ,GFW 2011, ,Graduate Fashion Week, ,Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, ,Joseph Turvey, ,Katie Eary, ,london, ,Margaret Rutherford, ,Mark Fast, ,Matt Bramford, ,Miss Marple, ,Nova Dando, ,Rainbow collection, ,Sailor uniforms, ,Sexy, ,The X Factor, ,Walter van Beirendonck

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Amelia’s Magazine | Introducing the Closet Swap community from Channel 4: Don’t Shop – Swap!

Closet Swap by Pia Bramley
Closet Swap by Pia Bramley.

Introducing Closet Swap, a new online fashion community site from Channel 4 Education. As part of a wider debate about sustainable and ethical fashion, Closet Swap allows users to share and customise clothes with their friends via Facebook. What I particularly like is the associated iPhone Closet Swap Fashion Finder app which helps users to locate local vintage and charity shops, perfect for a second hand magpie like myself. It’s no surprise that the girls at Tatty Devine support the idea, given that their new book How to Make Jewellery is based on the concept that ‘one girl’s trash is another girl’s treasure‘. Ethical designer Ada Zanditon has also given it the thumbs up, and so do I. Get involved! Here’s the link to the Closet Swap Facebook page.

Channel 4 Closet wap - Amelias Magazine - Janneke de Jong
Channel 4 Closet Swap by Janneke de Jong.

Illustrator Janneke de Jong also runs a very inspiring website called Small Scale Samaritan, where she gives away (beautifully illustrated) clothing that she doesn’t want. It was covered recently in the Guardian too and she is looking for more people to get involved so get in touch with her if you fancy it, either to give away your own clothing or help illustrate donations from others.

Mother's Pearls by Richard Parson
Mother’s Pearls by Richard Parson.

Vintage Clothing Swap by Viktorija Semjonova
Vintage Clothing Swap by Viktorija Semjonova.

Vintage Bag Illustration by Harriet Alice Fox
Vintage Broach Illustration by Harriet Alice Fox
Vintage Shoe Illustration by Harriet Alice Fox
Vintage Finds by Harriet Alice Fox.

Vintage hat by Fay Newman
Vintage perfume bottles by Fay Newman
Vintage hat and perfume bottles by Fay Newman.

Categories ,Ada Zanditon, ,book, ,Channel 4 Education, ,Closet Swap, ,ethical, ,Facebook, ,Fashion Finder, ,Fay Newman, ,Harriet Alice Fox, ,How to Make Jewellery, ,iphone app, ,Janneke de Jong, ,Pia Bramley, ,Richard Parson, ,Small Scale Samaritan, ,sustainable, ,Tatty Devine, ,Viktorija Semjonova

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Amelia’s Magazine | Central Saint Martins: Ba Fashion Graduate Show 2011 review. Menswear.

Ziv Gill Kazenstein by_Alison Day
Ziv Gill Kazenstein by Alison Day.

Menswear is usually not as fun to talk about as womenswear, viagra order but despite the huge reliance on a similar sandy colour theme there were some very strong collections at Central Saint Martins:

Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Kristy Longman photography by Amelia Gregory Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Kristy Longman photography by Amelia Gregory Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Kristy Longman photography by Amelia Gregory Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Kristy Longman photography by Amelia Gregory Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Kristy Longman photography by Amelia Gregory
Kirsty Longman opted for a pastel and camouflage collection that incorporated long shapes and interesting textures.

Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Suzannah Gardner photography by Amelia Gregory Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Suzannah Gardner photography by Amelia Gregory Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Suzannah Gardner photography by Amelia Gregory Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Suzannah Gardner photography by Amelia Gregory Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Suzannah Gardner photography by Amelia Gregory
Suzannah Gardner went for pale shades of grey and camel in a very strong collection that took inspiration from school boy style, the Scouts and the Brownies. Think toggles and shirted shapes… with the occasional pleated mini skirt.

Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Ziv Gill Kazenstein photography by Amelia Gregory Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Ziv Gill Kazenstein photography by Amelia Gregory Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Ziv Gill Kazenstein photography by Amelia Gregory Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Ziv Gill Kazenstein photography by Amelia Gregory
Ziv Gill Kazenstein showed an explosion of print and oversized shapes. A drop hemline gorilla shirt was the most normal outfit in a fun collection of baggy feathered suits. The kind of menswear we like to draw! (see above)

Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Daisy Lowe Josh Bullen photography by Amelia Gregory Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Daisy Lowe Josh Bullen photography by Amelia Gregory Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Daisy Lowe Josh Bullen photography by Amelia Gregory Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Daisy Lowe Josh Bullen photography by Amelia Gregory
Josh Bullen must have friends in high places. His fairly ordinary sports inspired collection was given an injection of excitement by the appearance of Daisy Lowe in skimpy shorts. Well, if you’ve got the contacts why not milk ‘em?

Daisy Lowe for Josh Bullen at Central Saint Martins by Fi Blog
Daisy Lowe for Josh Bullen at Central Saint Martins by Fi Blog.

Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Kopi Akasaka photography by Amelia Gregory Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Kopi Akasaka photography by Amelia Gregory Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Kopi Akasaka photography by Amelia Gregory Central Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Kopi Akasaka photography by Amelia Gregory Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Kopi Akasaka photography by Amelia Gregory Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Kopi Akasaka photography by Amelia Gregory Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Kopi Akasaka photography by Amelia Gregory
Kopi Akasaka went for a literal approach with his very costumey collection, featuring three-legged twins, breast plates and a bearskin hat. Most successful was a wide pinstriped pants suit worn by a dashing ginger model.

Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Noriyuki Doi photography by Amelia Gregory Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Noriyuki Doi photography by Amelia Gregory Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Noriyuki Doi photography by Amelia Gregory Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Noriyuki Doi photography by Amelia Gregory Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Noriyuki Doi photography by Amelia Gregory Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Noriyuki Doi photography by Amelia Gregory
Noriyuki Doi had a fun take on the omnipresent butterscotch colourway. Red, white and blue print detailing gave the collection a summery lift. He’d also created an inventive see through bib and skirt to be worn over a normal suit if the look should so take your fancy.

And of course the menswear from Ivan Nuria Nunes won a prize in the L’Oreal awards.

Categories ,Alison Day, ,Central Saint Martins, ,daisy lowe, ,Josh Bullen, ,Kirsty Longman, ,Kopi Akasaka, ,menswear, ,Noriyuki Doi, ,print, ,Suzannah Gardner, ,Ziv Gill Kazenstein

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Amelia’s Magazine | Corinne Day 1965 – 2010


ADZ, capsule drug illustrated by Jess Stokes

Whilst eco-couture has always been ahead of the times in terms of sustainability, click it’s often been left behind in the style stakes, unable to compete with mainstream, high fashion. Gradually though, a new breed of designer has emerged who is equally concerned with creating a cutting edge aesthetic as they are utilising sustainable and organic materials.

At the forefront of this movement is Ada Zanditon, whose designs experiment with shape and texture in a way that is unsurprising once you learn that she originally interned with Alexander McQueen and Gareth Pugh. After establishing her own eco-luxury womenswear line in March 2008, Ada has gone on to raise awareness of everything from eco fashion to politics through the likes of the Think Act Vote campaign. Ada took the time to answer a few questions for us about the inspiration behind her new range ADZ, and the future of eco fashion. ? 


ADZ S/S 2011

You’ve really established yourself as a pioneer of eco-fashion, giving the movement a younger, sexier image than it had in the past. How did you go about this?  
I think that I had two very strong passions that I was determined to make work together – fashion and sustainability. I enjoy the innovative aspect that comes into every part of the process, my main how-to part of it I think comes from a basic viewpoint that anything is possible. It’s equally possible to make a beautiful fashionable dress from an ecological material as it is from one that is not. It’s equally possible to create fashion that considers its full life span and even decay as it is to create something that does not. It’s a question of awareness, choice and aesthetics. 

Tell us about your new collection, ADZ?  
ADZ by Ada Zanditon is the bridging line to my main collection, it’s contemporary, resort urban wear that combines strikingly unique prints with casual yet sophisticated pieces that are focussed around bold geometric detailing in fluid soft fabrics such as tencel, silk jersey and chiffon. The SS 2011 debut collection of ADZ is titled Nebulayan. My inspiration came from creating illustrations of satellite images of the Himalayas mountain range which I then layered with Hubble telescope imagery of deep space nebulae. We now have achieved the technology to see the Earth from space and also to see deep into outer space. I like the idea of contrasting these perspectives with each other. 


ADZ, illustrated by Aniela Murphy

How do you cope with the volume of work and your nerves in the build up to London Fashion Week? Any trade secrets?
I am always aware that I am so fortunate to be in the position to be running my own label, I don’t really want to complain. Everyday always has its challenges, but I try to see that as opportunity. I think gratitude is vastly underrated these days…. don’t you? 

Absolutely! Amelia’s magazine have always been a big fan of your illustrations, any plans to design your own prints based on your work?
Actually, all my prints are based on my illustration work and photography and as well as that I use watercolour then layer all these elements together. ? 


ADZ, illustrated by Natsuki Otani

Musician Viktoria Modesta is your muse; how did you end up working together? You’ll be contributing to her showcase next month; what will that involve?
Soon after we first met we found we had a good creative rapport. I think Viktoria has incredible elegance and style with a real sense of grace. As for the showcase – I don’t want to give to much away but it will be a great evening. 

How do you think the public can be convinced of the importance of sustainability? Do you think there is more designers, magazine editors and celebrities could be doing to highlight its significance?
I only think the planet can truly convince people of the importance of sustainability. I’m sure most people living on the coast of Bangladesh are highly convinced that we need to live in a more sustainable way as they are effected daily by climate change. However, I think that people can encourage and inspire, and have a really good try at convincing. What worries me, though, is that catastrophic events only really shake people into action. I think everyone in every walk of life can do more, no matter what you do.

To see the entire ADZ S/S 2011 collection, visit Ada’s website.
To read more about Think Act Vote, see our interview with Amisha Ghadiali here.

Corrine Day pictured in 1996

The fashion world is in mourning over the loss of another of its brightest stars. Corinne Day, decease the fashion photographer known for shooting Kate Moss at the beginning of her career, information pills has died aged 45.

Her documentary-style photography shook up the fashion world in the nineties, mind at a time when the industry was looking for an antidote to the gloss and glamour of the eighties.  

Born in Ickenham, west London, Day she was raised by her grandmother (her mother, she said, ran a brothel, and her father was not in the picture), and after failing school, worked as a courier. A chance meeting with a photographer led to a short-lived modeling career – Corinne knew she was no cover girl – but through it she met her lifetime partner Mark Szaszy, who taught her how to use a camera.  

It was behind the lens that Corinne shone, and whilst modeling in Milan, she started snapping ‘what she knew’ – her friends – teenage models, hanging around cramped, dingy flats, dressed in charity shop finds.  

This was before the age of street style or fashion bloggers, where anyone with a camera and a passport could jet set around the world, snapping chic from the sidewalks. Her subversive shots caught the eye of Phil Bicker, then art director of The Face, who commissioned a shoot that was to become the stuff of fashion legend.  

The story of Corinne and Kate is well-documented. Day saw promise in a polaroid of the wannabe model, just 16. The ‘3rd Summer of Love’ in July 1990, saw Kate frolicking on a beach in Camber Sands, dressed in a mismatch of high-end designer and cheap market finds. The shoot caused a sensation. The two became firm friends, sharing a flat for three years – this closeness was something Corinne shared with many of her subjects, enabling her to capture them at their most natural.  

Shoots for Vogue followed – (Day was the first to shoot Kate for one of her countless Vogue covers) with Corinne teaming up the stylist Melanie Ward to create the now infamous ‘waif’ look. Her ‘Underexposed’ sequence saw Kate Moss languishing in a bedsit festooned with fairy lights, skinny in saggy tights, creating outrage in the national press for encouraging anorexia and heroin use.  

But nothing could stop Day’s rise to stardom. Her stark, fearlessly honest photographs welcomed in a new mood suited to a country recovering from a recession.  
After a decade of supermodels with their Amazonian bodies and diva demands, Day’s idea of perfection was imperfection. She hated retouching photographs, and favoured quirky models with only traces of makeup, exposed to natural light. Her shots of street kids in second-hand clothes summed up the anti-glamour aesthetic of Generation X. It was an answer to Seattle’s grunge movement – but uniquely British, and effortlessly cool.   

Influenced by the work of documentary artists like Nan Goldin, she sought to capture people’s “most intimate moments”, when “we’re not having such a good time”. This extended to her own life, when she was diagnosed with a brain tumour in 1996, and asked her partner to photograph her battling with the illness. The result was published as ‘Diary’ in 2001.  

After recovering from her first bout of illness, Corinne continued to shoot for fashion magazines, as well as documenting her own friends and family. Her work was commissioned by the National Portrait Gallery, exhibited everywhere from the V&A to the Saatchi, and even the subject of a BBC Four documentary.  

Corinne will always be known as the girl who kick-started heroin chic, but her legacy will be something greater. Writing in The Telegraph, stylist Belinda White commented how, growing up as a working class girl, she “had no business” looking at Vogue and “couldn’t relate” to the stories on the magazine pages. The Kate Moss shoot made her “stop in her tracks” and realize that for the first time, normal girls ‘like her’ could be a part of this world.  

Corinne Day’s photographs democratized fashion, and made it ‘real’ and relevant to a girl on the street. Only under her guise could Kate Moss, a short, flat-chested girl from Croydon, rise up the echelons of the fashion world.  

All images © Corinne Day

Categories ,3rd Summer of Love, ,Amazonian, ,Britain, ,Camber Sands, ,corinne day, ,Croydon, ,fashion, ,Generation X, ,grunge, ,Ickenham, ,Kate Moss, ,london, ,Mark Szaszy, ,Melanie Ward, ,Milan, ,Nan Goldin, ,national portrait gallery, ,Obituary, ,Phil Bicker, ,photography, ,Saatchi Gallery, ,seattle, ,The Face, ,Underexposed, ,va, ,vogue

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Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland S/S 2012 in Łódź: An Introduction

Fashion Week Poland people SS 2012-international press photography Amelia Gregory
Fashion Week Poland S/S 2012. International press on the front row, all photography by Amelia Gregory.

Last week I returned to Łódź in Poland for my second dose of Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland. This time around I knew more about what to expect and already had some designers in mind to watch. I was also determined to see as many off schedule shows as possible, because as is often the case this is where the most exciting new talent resides.

Fashion Week Poland 2011 andels hotel exterior
Fashion Week Poland 2011 andels hotel exterior
Fashion Week Poland 2011 andels hotel hall
Once again I stayed at the Andels Hotel, a fabulous establishment created from one of the many old factories that typify the landscape of Łódź. Andels has neon rimmed curved cut outs between floors and high ceilinged bedrooms that belie it’s industrial origins, and the breakfast is yummy. What more could you want?

Łódź Fashion Week AW 2011-Andels room
Lodz Fashion Week AW 2011-Andels bedroom
Fashion Week Poland 2011 andels hotel interior
Fashion Week Poland 2011 andels hotel interior-Andels swimming pool
Unfortunately I had no time to sample their spectacular overhanging rooftop swimming pool because I had a hectic four days of shows, with up to 12 shows to see each day. To make things even more exciting I offered to take over the official Fashion Week Poland twitter feed @fashionweek_pl for the duration of my visit. Twitter really hasn’t taken off in Poland yet, but I was determined to show them how important it is to reach an international fashion audience. So for four days, not only was I taking photos and editing between shows, I was also twittering as much as I could given a sometimes shaky internet connection (better wi-fi than London Fashion Week though I might add). Interestingly Facebook is huge news for business, with many designers using it as their sole means of communication on the web.

Fashion Week Poland people SS 2012 Amelia Gregory and Marlena Woolford
Pregnant ladies on the front row: myself with Fashion Trends Analyst Marlena Woolford.

Fashion Week Poland people SS 2012-Joanna Malgorzata Kralkowska
Eating Polish pancakes at Manekin with my lovely guide Joanna Dyrdowska and Fashion Week Poland organiser Małgorzata Kralkowska.

Having been to Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland twice I now have a much stronger idea of what I would determine to be uniquely Polish in fashion – they excel at a curious mix of grungey draping, downbeat mumsy colours and 80s brashness. Polish style at it’s best revels in odd colour combinations and contrasting fabrics and it’s refreshing to see a strong strain of environmental awareness manifested in both materials and design inspiration (I sadly missed the Re-Act eco fashion show on Wednesday night). Grey jersey draping is such a common theme across collections that when used unimaginatively it quickly becomes very tiring, but when done well it adds to that essential Polish feel, as typified by the likes of Monika Ptaszek. Her S/S 2012 menswear collection was one of my favourites, and showcased the very best of what is essential Polish style.

Monika Ptaszek Fashion Week Poland SS 2012
Monika Ptaszek Fashion Week Poland SS 2012
Monika Ptaszek Fashion Week Poland SS 2012
Monika Ptaszek S/S 2012.

Aside from a very Polish strain to many collections there were noticeably more international trends running through the shows this season, as compared with last. Sheer fabrics reigned supreme, (exposed bums and boobs, hello) as did ikat and digital prints, plus the mini maxi combo that leaves models struggling to align fabric in the best position for cameras as they stride down the catwalk.

Joanna Klimas Fashion Week Poland SS 2012
Sheer at Joanna Klimas S/S 2012.

Poitr Drzal Fashion Week Poland SS 2012
Bottoms on show at Poitr Drzal S/S 2012.

Blessus Fashion Week Poland SS 2012
Ikat meets maximini at Blessus S/S 2012.

In my upcoming blogs I’ll give a flavour of how this emerging fashion centre is evolving and I will of course concentrate on the most exciting Polish designers to watch out for. There are plenty of Polish designers who have studied and are now working to considerable acclaim in London, and there’s no reason why home trained talent should not make a bigger mark on the international scene in the years to come too.

Categories ,@fashionweek_pl, ,Andel’s Hotel, ,Blessus, ,Facebook, ,fashion, ,Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland, ,Ikat, ,Inspiration Trends Analysis, ,Joanna Dyrdowska, ,Joanna Klimas, ,Lodz, ,London Fashion Week, ,Manekin, ,Marlena Woolford, ,Maximini, ,Małgorzata Kralkowska, ,menswear, ,MiniMaxi, ,Monika Ptaszek, ,Pancakes, ,Poitr Drzal, ,poland, ,S/S 2012, ,Sheer, ,twitter

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Amelia’s Magazine | 8 Tips for Making a Successful Impression at Alternative Fashion Week

Alternative Fashion Week Day 5 2010
All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Alternative Fashion Week is a wonderful thing, visit this site truly, no rx but as I have written about it over the past week the one thing that has struck me time and time again is the lack of information surrounding the event and its participants. As I tried to research the designers it has, at times, felt a bit like I have adopted the mantle of a detective. I am truly flabbergasted at the lack of facts available to any interested parties wanting to chase up a fashion designer.

Quite often within the arts there seems to be huge support to launch a creative endeavour, and then zero ongoing relationship, including making it as easy as possible for someone to contact a designer or artist. The sheet that I received listing the designers showing at Alternative Fashion Week was almost impossible to read. Not only did it bear no relevance to who showed on what day (understandable – I am sure things changed around at the last minute) but the designers weren’t even listed in alphabetical order. I mean c’mon folks, I know money must be tight, but this was an unforgivable error. I tried to be as accurate as possible in my reviews but it took so long to cross check the names that a lazier journalist would simply have given up, thus denying the designers promotion.

Alternative Fashion Week Day 5 2010 Immani da silva
This is not fashion by the way, this is glamour modelling.

I imagine sponsorship money was quickly prioritised for other things: a (naff) band, a proper stage, marquees etc. But in my opinion the part that was neglected is one of the most important, and that is providing the selected designers with the knowledge and networks to ensure that their catwalk show wasn’t a one-off shot at recognition. This should come in the form of advice not only of how to maximise impressions on the day, but also before the show, and well beyond. Alternative Fashion Week doesn’t even have it’s own website, but a grotty html page on the Alternative Arts website. It’s pretty pathetic, truth be told. Alternative Fashion Week should at least have it’s own blog: hardly a costly thing to set up. It should be on twitter, and it should have a website presence of its own with profiles of every designer involved, with links to their own websites.

And this is where I get really irked: almost none of the designers involved had a website, or any kind of web presence. Believe me, I spent enough time googling all of them to know what is out there. There’s really no excuse for this – the first thing anyone does if they want to find out about something – anything – these days, is to google it. It takes moments to set up a blog, twitter feed, LinkedIn profile or Facebook fan page, and it’s such an easy way to let people know what you do and how they can find you. Neither did many of the designers have a business card on them ready to hand out. And there’s more…

Alternative Fashion Week Day 5

In the absence of any visible web support from the people behind Alternative Fashion Week, here then is my DIY guide to fashion designers who want to make an impression, based on my observations backstage at the 2010 shows in Spitalfields Market. I don’t by any means offer this as a conclusive list, but something that will hopefully be helpful for anyone taking part in a similar event in the future. And this applies to any catwalk show anywhere in the world, or at a push, to almost any creative event (apart from the model bit obviously):

8 Tips for Making a Successful Impression at Alternative Fashion Week:

Beforehand:
1. I know you’re busy, we all are. But if you are going to do a massive promotional event, make sure that you take a tiny bit of time to set up some kind of web presence beforehand. It takes MOMENTS to set up your profile on a social network. You should really have a professional presence on your own website or blog, Facebook, LinkedIn and Twitter, but if you’re too busy to get your head around all of them I would absolutely implore you to set up a twitter feed with a good url that reflects your professional name. It literally takes no time at all. Start twittering about everything that is happening in the run up to your catwalk show – all the hard work, who you are speaking to, where you source your materials from, all of that kind of thing – a few weeks before hand. And set up a blog to post photos of your work. This is also really simple, and you can link it to your twitter every time you post something.

Alternative Fashion Week day 3 2010 Am Statik
Models for Am Statik.

2. Send out a promotional email to anyone you think might be interested. Amy Day of Am Statik sent me an email a week or so before Alternative Fashion Week which I skim read. I’d never heard of her before but she included some nice photos, which not only reminded me to attend all of the shows, but meant that I remembered her name when she presented her clothes on the catwalk. She was also there handing out business cards and being photographed with her models at the end. And she has a website, a Facebook page and a twitter feed. Take note: this is how it should be done.

On the Day:
3. Make sure you have got business cards in your hands at all times (or in a pocket, or in a bag over your shoulders) These should have a contact email and any web presence printed on them. Plus an image of your collection wouldn’t hurt either so that people will remember which one it is. Business cards are extremely easy and cheap to print these days. Try Moo.com. If someone looks interested, for god’s sake don’t wait for them to ask, just give them a business card. Even an interested person will find it really hard to remember your name when they’re watching so many shows. And ask them for their business card, or their name (and remember it). If your hands are full find a willing friend to help you out – maybe they can go around handing out promotional postcards to the audience whilst you are running around backstage liking a whirling dervish?

4. Models: I would highly recommend that you find your own models. Quite a lot of people at Alternative Fashion Week were sharing models which meant they didn’t have time to stop and pose after the catwalk. Yes, it can seem daunting to find your own, but it is possible, and they don’t have to be perfect. Either cajole friends into doing it, or go chat up some cute people on the street (otherwise known as street-casting, a great way to talk to attractive people!) If you have to hand your models over to another designer straight away then they won’t be able to hang around backstage and in the audience, showing off your designs and generally being available for lots of lovely photographs.

5. Make sure your models know that the camera is their friend on the big day – your friend/mum/sister may normally hate posing for photographs but it is their job to make your clothes look fabulous – so tell them to pose like their life depends on it, or artfully continue what they’re doing (photographers like natural documentary style reportage too) whenever they see a camera pointing in their direction, even when they have left the catwalk. Being shy is no good, so if at all possible pick your most exhibitionist cohorts to model. You want as many fabulous photos of your designs to be taken as is humanly possible because you never know where those pictures are going to end up. They could just make the front page. Which is not to be sniffed at, even if it is just the front page of East End Life.

Alternative Fashion Week Elif Muzaffer
Elif Muzaffer makes sure she is in the photo with her models. I would not always recommend this – make sure the photographers are also able to get shots of the models alone.

Afterwards:
6. If anyone showed interest in your collection then you should follow them up in the first few days after the show. Do not rest on your laurels! This is your chance, so grab it. If they gave you their card send them a friendly email to say it was nice to meet them, and if they didn’t go and google them – if they are professional they will have a website presence (as you should do) – and then get in touch. Elif Muzaffer was very proactive in contacting me after I gave her my business card; not only did she email me that very night, but she promptly set up a blog when I asked how I could link to her. She did it there and then, complete with pictures from the catwalk, so that I could link to it from my online review. It’s never too late to get on top of your web presence.

7. Update your social media as soon as possible – get on twitter and start raving about how great your catwalk show was. Post pictures of your collection on your blog. Get into the habit of googling your name and that of your professional fashion brand to see who is talking about you. It’s what every professional does! Use Google Alerts for this – a very handy service that tracks who is talking about you so you don’t even need to. Then twitter about all this lovely press you are getting, so people can see how well you are doing. It’s all about creating that elusive “buzz” if you want to have a stella career in fashion.

8. Don’t ever just expect to sit back and relax. The work never stops in this industry – you’ve got to be constantly promoting yourself, and if you’re serious about becoming a fashion designer this aspect of your chosen career will never let up. Your exposure on the catwalk at Alternative Fashion Week is merely the start. As with every creative industry, it doesn’t matter how talented you are, if you don’t promote yourself then you will never be as successful as you could be. Unless you were born with famous parents of course. Peaches Geldof, Lily Allen, ahem.

Good Luck! and if you’ve got any other tips, I’d love to hear them in the comments below.

Categories ,Alternative Fashion Week, ,Am Statik, ,Amy Day, ,Blogging, ,Buzz, ,East End Life, ,Elif Muzaffer, ,Facebook, ,Google Alerts, ,lily allen, ,LinkedIn, ,Modelling, ,Peaches Geldof, ,photography, ,spitalfields, ,Tips, ,twitter

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Amelia’s Magazine | 8 Tips for Making a Successful Impression at Alternative Fashion Week

Alternative Fashion Week Day 5 2010
All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Alternative Fashion Week is a wonderful thing, visit this site truly, no rx but as I have written about it over the past week the one thing that has struck me time and time again is the lack of information surrounding the event and its participants. As I tried to research the designers it has, at times, felt a bit like I have adopted the mantle of a detective. I am truly flabbergasted at the lack of facts available to any interested parties wanting to chase up a fashion designer.

Quite often within the arts there seems to be huge support to launch a creative endeavour, and then zero ongoing relationship, including making it as easy as possible for someone to contact a designer or artist. The sheet that I received listing the designers showing at Alternative Fashion Week was almost impossible to read. Not only did it bear no relevance to who showed on what day (understandable – I am sure things changed around at the last minute) but the designers weren’t even listed in alphabetical order. I mean c’mon folks, I know money must be tight, but this was an unforgivable error. I tried to be as accurate as possible in my reviews but it took so long to cross check the names that a lazier journalist would simply have given up, thus denying the designers promotion.

Alternative Fashion Week Day 5 2010 Immani da silva
This is not fashion by the way, this is glamour modelling.

I imagine sponsorship money was quickly prioritised for other things: a (naff) band, a proper stage, marquees etc. But in my opinion the part that was neglected is one of the most important, and that is providing the selected designers with the knowledge and networks to ensure that their catwalk show wasn’t a one-off shot at recognition. This should come in the form of advice not only of how to maximise impressions on the day, but also before the show, and well beyond. Alternative Fashion Week doesn’t even have it’s own website, but a grotty html page on the Alternative Arts website. It’s pretty pathetic, truth be told. Alternative Fashion Week should at least have it’s own blog: hardly a costly thing to set up. It should be on twitter, and it should have a website presence of its own with profiles of every designer involved, with links to their own websites.

And this is where I get really irked: almost none of the designers involved had a website, or any kind of web presence. Believe me, I spent enough time googling all of them to know what is out there. There’s really no excuse for this – the first thing anyone does if they want to find out about something – anything – these days, is to google it. It takes moments to set up a blog, twitter feed, LinkedIn profile or Facebook fan page, and it’s such an easy way to let people know what you do and how they can find you. Neither did many of the designers have a business card on them ready to hand out. And there’s more…

Alternative Fashion Week Day 5

In the absence of any visible web support from the people behind Alternative Fashion Week, here then is my DIY guide to fashion designers who want to make an impression, based on my observations backstage at the 2010 shows in Spitalfields Market. I don’t by any means offer this as a conclusive list, but something that will hopefully be helpful for anyone taking part in a similar event in the future. And this applies to any catwalk show anywhere in the world, or at a push, to almost any creative event (apart from the model bit obviously):

8 Tips for Making a Successful Impression at Alternative Fashion Week:

Beforehand:
1. I know you’re busy, we all are. But if you are going to do a massive promotional event, make sure that you take a tiny bit of time to set up some kind of web presence beforehand. It takes MOMENTS to set up your profile on a social network. You should really have a professional presence on your own website or blog, Facebook, LinkedIn and Twitter, but if you’re too busy to get your head around all of them I would absolutely implore you to set up a twitter feed with a good url that reflects your professional name. It literally takes no time at all. Start twittering about everything that is happening in the run up to your catwalk show – all the hard work, who you are speaking to, where you source your materials from, all of that kind of thing – a few weeks before hand. And set up a blog to post photos of your work. This is also really simple, and you can link it to your twitter every time you post something.

Alternative Fashion Week day 3 2010 Am Statik
Models for Am Statik.

2. Send out a promotional email to anyone you think might be interested. Amy Day of Am Statik sent me an email a week or so before Alternative Fashion Week which I skim read. I’d never heard of her before but she included some nice photos, which not only reminded me to attend all of the shows, but meant that I remembered her name when she presented her clothes on the catwalk. She was also there handing out business cards and being photographed with her models at the end. And she has a website, a Facebook page and a twitter feed. Take note: this is how it should be done.

On the Day:
3. Make sure you have got business cards in your hands at all times (or in a pocket, or in a bag over your shoulders) These should have a contact email and any web presence printed on them. Plus an image of your collection wouldn’t hurt either so that people will remember which one it is. Business cards are extremely easy and cheap to print these days. Try Moo.com. If someone looks interested, for god’s sake don’t wait for them to ask, just give them a business card. Even an interested person will find it really hard to remember your name when they’re watching so many shows. And ask them for their business card, or their name (and remember it). If your hands are full find a willing friend to help you out – maybe they can go around handing out promotional postcards to the audience whilst you are running around backstage liking a whirling dervish?

4. Models: I would highly recommend that you find your own models. Quite a lot of people at Alternative Fashion Week were sharing models which meant they didn’t have time to stop and pose after the catwalk. Yes, it can seem daunting to find your own, but it is possible, and they don’t have to be perfect. Either cajole friends into doing it, or go chat up some cute people on the street (otherwise known as street-casting, a great way to talk to attractive people!) If you have to hand your models over to another designer straight away then they won’t be able to hang around backstage and in the audience, showing off your designs and generally being available for lots of lovely photographs.

5. Make sure your models know that the camera is their friend on the big day – your friend/mum/sister may normally hate posing for photographs but it is their job to make your clothes look fabulous – so tell them to pose like their life depends on it, or artfully continue what they’re doing (photographers like natural documentary style reportage too) whenever they see a camera pointing in their direction, even when they have left the catwalk. Being shy is no good, so if at all possible pick your most exhibitionist cohorts to model. You want as many fabulous photos of your designs to be taken as is humanly possible because you never know where those pictures are going to end up. They could just make the front page. Which is not to be sniffed at, even if it is just the front page of East End Life.

Alternative Fashion Week Elif Muzaffer
Elif Muzaffer makes sure she is in the photo with her models. I would not always recommend this – make sure the photographers are also able to get shots of the models alone.

Afterwards:
6. If anyone showed interest in your collection then you should follow them up in the first few days after the show. Do not rest on your laurels! This is your chance, so grab it. If they gave you their card send them a friendly email to say it was nice to meet them, and if they didn’t go and google them – if they are professional they will have a website presence (as you should do) – and then get in touch. Elif Muzaffer was very proactive in contacting me after I gave her my business card; not only did she email me that very night, but she promptly set up a blog when I asked how I could link to her. She did it there and then, complete with pictures from the catwalk, so that I could link to it from my online review. It’s never too late to get on top of your web presence.

7. Update your social media as soon as possible – get on twitter and start raving about how great your catwalk show was. Post pictures of your collection on your blog. Get into the habit of googling your name and that of your professional fashion brand to see who is talking about you. It’s what every professional does! Use Google Alerts for this – a very handy service that tracks who is talking about you so you don’t even need to. Then twitter about all this lovely press you are getting, so people can see how well you are doing. It’s all about creating that elusive “buzz” if you want to have a stella career in fashion.

8. Don’t ever just expect to sit back and relax. The work never stops in this industry – you’ve got to be constantly promoting yourself, and if you’re serious about becoming a fashion designer this aspect of your chosen career will never let up. Your exposure on the catwalk at Alternative Fashion Week is merely the start. As with every creative industry, it doesn’t matter how talented you are, if you don’t promote yourself then you will never be as successful as you could be. Unless you were born with famous parents of course. Peaches Geldof, Lily Allen, ahem.

Good Luck! and if you’ve got any other tips, I’d love to hear them in the comments below.

Categories ,Alternative Fashion Week, ,Am Statik, ,Amy Day, ,Blogging, ,Buzz, ,East End Life, ,Elif Muzaffer, ,Facebook, ,Google Alerts, ,lily allen, ,LinkedIn, ,Modelling, ,Peaches Geldof, ,photography, ,spitalfields, ,Tips, ,twitter

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Amelia’s Magazine | Beautiful Soul: meet Nicola Woods, ethical fashion designer extraordinaire

ZarinaLiew_BeautifulSoul_FW10
Beautiful Soul A/W 2010 by Zarina Liew.

You started out as an insurance broker so you’ve have had an unconventional career so far. Why and how did you become a fashion designer?
As a young girl, approved treatment I wanted to be a fashion designer, shop but life has its twists and turns and I found myself caught up in the rat race for eleven years. I lacked passion for my work but I didn’t know how I would cope without my luxuries and the next pay rise. Then I had the opportunity to backpack around the world for six months with my best friend and for the first time in my adult life I realised that I could live on a budget. I started to see life in a different light, with endless opportunities. Whilst in Tokyo, something happened to me: I was surrounded by the most amazing boutiques and I was like a child in a sweet shop. Mesmerised. Excited. Totally inspired. I realised that I needed to make radical changes to my lifestyle in order to make my dreams a reality and I haven’t looked back since. I graduated from the London College of Fashion with a BA(Hons) in Fashion, Design and Technology in 2008. During my final year, I was involved in a project based around ‘saving the earth’. I was hooked. Fashion with a TRUE meaning, for me, is the only way, and my ethos helps me to focus and push forward.

Beautiful Soul A/W 2010 by Zarina Liew
Beautiful Soul by Zarina Liew

Why did you decide to specialise in creating adjustable garments?
I set out to create timeless designs that will be favoured pieces in the wardrobe for a lifetime and multi-functionality renders a garment timeless, as it can be worn to suit different moods and seasons. A woman’s curves change regularly and it’s frustrating when a zip or button will not close. I therefore avoid using conventional fastening in my designs and instead explore alternative methods. I love to experiment and delve below the surface of fashion, discovering new ways to incorporate responsibility through use of distinctive materials and design innovation.

What does your zero waste policy mean in practicality?
I am extremely fond of fabric and I hate to see it go to waste! I upcycle vintage kimonos to create new garments that hold a greater value; when I dismantle a kimono I am left with very limited panels of fabric, only 38cm wide. It’s important that I work with these restrictions and nurture an understanding of the fabric availability. Any leftover fabric will be placed aside and then revisited the following season, where I set myself the challenge of designing a new piece based on the leftovers. I have just designed Beautiful Soul’s third collection, S/S 2011’s Believe, and the leftover fabrics have been transformed into a range of unique corsets and shoulders pads in our menswear jackets. Material remnants feature as fastenings and embellishments, adhering to the policy of zero waste whereby every last thread of fabric is used in the creative process….


Beautiful Soul SS:11 Believe was created with Zarina Liew after she made contact with Nicola Woods to complete her submission to be in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration. Music was provided by Amelia’s Magazine favourite Gabby Young and Other Animals.

Read the rest of this interview and see more illustrations of Beautiful Soul’s clothing in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration, alongside interviews with 44 other ethical fashion designers and 30 fabulous fashion illustrators. You can buy the book here.

Categories ,Beautiful Soul, ,Eco fashion, ,Ethical designer, ,Gabby Young and Other Animals, ,Kimono, ,London College of Fashion, ,Nicola Woods, ,tokyo, ,Zarina Liew

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