BFC – Page 4 – AmeliasMagazine

Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2011 Catwalk Review: Jaeger

Una Burke A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory

Una Burke A/W 2011 by Joy Chokchai.

I really don’t know what it is about fashion that attracts so many people with a dark sensibility. Is it because an obsession with the way we look can easily tip into self flagellation? Maybe for striving but somehow never attaining perfection? Punishment, tadalafil pain and even death are a major inspiration for all sorts of fashionable creativity… and ideas provoked by S&M were present in spades at this LFW, visit this site as always.

It featured scenes of a semi clad model in a dungeon – opening her eyes in gory close up before grappling her way towards the light and a crowd of bemused onlookers.

In cabinets we were invited to admire the bondage inspired pieces up close, presented alongside grainy black and white photos, stills from the film. Her website cites her stated aim “to create leather objects which are both visually captivating and technically challenging.” Úna Burke inhabits that grey area between art and fashion – making wearable art. Using traditional techniques, there is undoubtedly a fine sense of craftsmanship to her work. All well and good for a bit of sex play, but this kind of presentation leaves me wondering – what exactly is the market for this? Can one make a living this way? Or must one diversify into slightly more commercial pieces to survive? Witness the Maria Francesca Pepe exhibition a few days later…

You can read Matthew Bramford’s complimentary review of the same presentation right here.

Una Burke A/W 2011 by Joy Chokchai.

I really don’t know what it is about fashion that attracts so many people with a dark sensibility. Is it because an obsession with the way we look can easily tip into self flagellation? Maybe for striving but somehow never attaining perfection? Punishment, purchase pain and even death are a major inspiration for all sorts of fashionable creativity… and ideas provoked by S&M were present in spades at this LFW, find as always.

Una Burke A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory

Úna Burke presented her leatherwear collection at Fashion Scout accompanied by a somewhat disturbing film that my more erudite boyfriend informed me was similar to the work of Bjork’s one time other half Matthew Barney. It featured scenes of a semi clad model in a dungeon – opening her eyes in gory close up before grappling her way towards the light and a crowd of bemused onlookers.

Una Burke A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

In cabinets we were invited to admire the bondage inspired pieces up close, splayed out and presented alongside grainy black and white photos, stills from the film. Her website cites her stated aim “to create leather objects which are both visually captivating and technically challenging.” Úna Burke inhabits that grey area between art and fashion – making wearable art. Using traditional techniques, there is undoubtedly a fine sense of craftsmanship to her work. All well and good for a bit of sex play, but this kind of presentation leaves me wondering – what exactly is the market for this? Can one make a living this way? Or must one diversify into slightly more commercial pieces to survive? Witness the Maria Francesca Pepe exhibition a few days later…

You can read Matthew Bramford’s complimentary review of the same presentation right here.

Una Burke A/W 2011 by Joy Chokchai.

I really don’t know what it is about fashion that attracts so many people with a dark sensibility. Is it because an obsession with the way we look can easily tip into self flagellation? Maybe encouraged by the desire to strive for but never being able to attain perfection? Punishment, advice pain and even death are a major inspiration for all sorts of fashionable creativity… and ideas provoked by S&M were present in spades at this LFW, as always.

Una Burke A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory

Una Burke A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

You can read Matthew Bramford’s complimentary review of the same presentation right here.

Una Burke A/W 2011 by Joy Chokchai.

I really don’t know what it is about fashion that attracts so many people with a dark sensibility. Is it because an obsession with the way we look can easily tip into self flagellation? Maybe encouraged by the desire to strive for but never being able to attain perfection? Punishment, sales pain and even death are a major inspiration for all sorts of fashionable creativity… and ideas provoked by S&M were present in spades at this LFW, sildenafil as always.

Una Burke A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory

Una Burke A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

You can read Matthew Bramford’s complimentary review of the same presentation right here.

Jaeger A/W 2011 by Madi.

Jaeger, find I’m afraid, viagra 60mg is one of those shows for which I lost the press release several weeks ago. That’s if there ever was one – but who needs a blurb anyway? Surely the clothes should be able to do the talking…

Jaeger A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.
Jaeger A/W 2011 by Katherine Tromans.

Jaeger is a traditional brand that has managed to up the fashion style stakes with in house design team shake ups. The current creative director is Stuart Stockdale, malady who formerly worked for Pringle of Scotland amongst others. He’s been with Jaeger for several years now and after a prolonged period in the doldrums he has succeeded in reinvigorating the brand. What is it with British heritage fashion brands? They’re just so very good at reinventing themselves.

Jaeger A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.
Jaeger A/W 2011 by Joana Faria.

It was under the clean lights of the BFC tent that Jaeger hit the catwalk, itself all clean lines and considered tailoring. Sharp, beautifully crisp well fitting garments ploughed out to meet the photographers. The collection was a delicious mix of autumnal colours: blocks of cinnamon, caramel, fallen leaf orange, paprika, mustard and moss gathering around punctual navy blues and sensible chocolate brown. Capacious leather bags and handheld clutches were the accessory of choice but I couldn’t keep my eyes off the shoes, cleverly styled with stripy woollen socks. Present and correct was the colour du jour – sharp bursts of orange red. Or on dazzling silky blouses a lip-smacking deep fuchsia pink. Yum.

Jaeger A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.
Jaeger A/W 2011 by Zoe Georgiou.

This is what I would wear if I were a different kind of person: one who always looks immaculately turned out, whatever the occasion. And of course one who has a very nice steady stream of income. Working women in a certain type of job would do well to look to Jaeger for fabulous style and quality that won’t go out of fashion in a hurry.

Jaeger A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

As you can see, I got a bit hypnotised by the feet…

You can see more illustrations by Joana Faria and Katherine Tromans in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Tuesday March 8th, 2011 1:46 pm

Categories ,ACOFI, ,Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration, ,BFC, ,Heritage, ,Jaeger, ,Joana Faria, ,Katherine Tromans, ,Madi, ,Madi Illustrates, ,Pringle of Scotland, ,Somerset House, ,Stuart Stockdale, ,Zoe Georgiou

Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2011 Catwalk Review: Jasper Conran sketched by Jenny

mamuthones artwork

Having extensively researched the subject (well, purchase googled it) I’ve been able to establish that Mamuthones are pre-Christian masquerades dating back 2,000 years from Sardinia. As a musical project, Italy’s Mamuthones are no less mysterious, seeming as they do to tap into the same strand of unnerving mysticism as this ancient ritual. One thing is for sure though – any album that gives a credit in the sleeve notes for “screams and whispers” is worth a spin. Can things get any weirder? Of course they can! Further inspection of the sleeve notes reveals that one of the seven tracks, MJ74 was recorded in 1974. But wait, this is a debut album! What the bejesus is going on?

As it turns out, Mamuthones is the solo project of Alessio Gastaldello, founder of Italian psych pop mavericks Jennifer Gentle. Here he teams up with former bandmate Marco Fasolo on guitar and… 62 year old drummer Maurizio Boldrin, which is where MJ74 comes in. Boldrin actually recorded this track of monk-style chanting and cymbal chimes back in the 70s, and it’s testimony to the sheer otherwordly nature of Mamuthones’ vision that this happily sits side by side with a bunch of tracks recorded last Spring.

The Mamuthones by Ankolie
Illustration by Ankolie

So what exactly is Mamuthones’ vision? Well, be afraid, be very afraid – it takes all of the psych and none of the pop of Jennifer Gentle to create a truly foreboding mixture, where Boldrin’s pounding tribal drumbeats collide with monumental keyboard drones and, of course, whispers and screams. Tracks like Ota Benga recall the weirder end of the Syd Barrett-era Pink Floyd cannon, while A New Start could be from an (admittedly brilliantly produced) transcendental meditation CD.

So you could say something for everyone then? Well yes, if everyone has just woken up from an acid trip in rural Sardinia. But seriously, if you like your music weird and wonderful (and with a bit of ritualistic chanting – let’s face it, who doesn’t?) then you’ll love this. If you like your music safe and cosy, then watch out – you’re about to be terrified.

Mamuthones is out now on Boring Machines.

mamuthones artwork

Having extensively researched the subject (well, cost googled it) I’ve been able to establish that Mamuthones are pre-Christian masquerades dating back 2,000 years from Sardinia. As a musical project, Italy’s Mamuthones are no less mysterious, seeming as they do to tap into the same strand of unnerving mysticism as this ancient ritual. One thing is for sure though – any album that gives a credit in the sleeve notes for “screams and whispers” is worth a spin. Can things get any weirder? Of course they can! Further inspection of the sleeve notes reveals that one of the seven tracks, MJ74 was recorded in 1974. But wait, this is a debut album! What the bejesus is going on?

The Mamuthones by Ankolie
Illustration by Ankolie

Mamuthones is out now on Boring Machines.

jasper conran by jenny robins
All illustrations by Jenny Robins.

The man behind me in the queue to get into the Jasper Conran show was talking about buying a house in London Fields. Well bully for him as I had a seated ticket and skipped right past him when we got inside the BFC tent.

The queue for Jasper Conran A/W 2011 by Jenny Robins.

I hadn’t been in my seat long when by some pre-understood signal everyone moved forward into empty seats at the front. Had I been paying attention I might have been able to see the shoes when the show started, unhealthy but as I was halfway up the side of the runway my sketching time for each outfit was super limited. I wasn’t sure I liked my drawings at the time, for sale but when I came to edit them I realised I kind of love them so now you get to see them.

jasper conran 2 - lfw aw11 - jenny robins
Jasper Conran A/W 2011 by Jenny Robins.

The designs were I suppose ace in all the expected ways – clean lines, sexy perfect little joined panels, lovely wide necklines and sixties inspired shift dresses all in rich dark tones combined with a lot of clean white. There were some fairly ridiculous oversized plant pot hats going on which I wasn’t sure about. The final outfit had a crowd-ooohing stand up feather collar atop a long straight silhouette – classic.

Jasper Conran A/W 2011 by Jenny Robins.

Stars of the show for me were the fitted panelled jumpsuits with chunky round buckled belts – very Mrs. Peel. I thought they looked like felt but they may have been suede. Don’t quote me on it.

Jasper Conran A/W 2011 by Jenny Robins.

You can see lots more work by Jenny Robins in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration and you can read Nick Bain’s review of Jasper Conran here

Written by Jenny Robins on Thursday March 17th, 2011 11:18 pm

Categories ,60s, ,ACOFI, ,Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration, ,BFC, ,Jasper Conran, ,Jenny Robins, ,lfw, ,Mrs. Peel, ,Somerset House

Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2011 Catwalk Review: Jasper Conran

Illustration by Natasha Thompson

Autumn Winter 2010’s ‘DeCon’ is the second collection Masha Ma has shown at Vauxhall Fashion Scout, order her MA collection was bought by B Store and she has since gone from strength to strength, winning the Mouse Ji Best International Innovation Award at the 2009 CCDC China Contemporary Design Contest.

Illustration by Avril Kelly

Building on her predominantly white and silver ‘Icebreaker’ collection for Spring Summer 2011, Masha Ma used a subtle palette for Autumn Winter, injected with flashes of colour. Patent scarlet thigh high boots and contrast edged exposed zips complemented heavy yet tactile cashmere in a palette of dove grey, eggshell, scarlet, taupe and powder beige.

Illustrations by Maria del Carmen Smith

High-waisted pencil skirts, hourglass silhouettes, bright red lips and victory rolls added a touch of Mad Men, whilst sculpted waterfall folds, leather panelling and Swarovski elements kept the look contemporary and luxurious.

Masha Ma played with the subtle deconstruction and accentuation of the female form, pairing subtly flamboyant cascading shapes with fluid skin-tight elements. The union of contrasting textures and a striking palette created a captivating range of looks that left the audience wanting more.

Illustrations by Maria Papadimitriou

Flashes of scarlet were seen again in the form of cropped high gloss mitts; collars were all high; neatly rolled or delicately starched and geometric.
Figure-hugging skirts were zipped halfway to reveal a flash of pillarbox red; zipped boot sleeves revealed skyscraper spike heels. Hair was slicked back into soft buns and coiffed into twists over the ear.

Illustration by Natasha Thompson

All in all this was a refreshing and original collection, I’m sure I’m not the only one eagerly awaiting Masha Ma’s offering for Spring Summer 2012!

All photography by Naomi Law

You can see more of Natasha Thompson’s illustrations in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration.

Illustration by Natasha Thompson

Autumn Winter 2010’s ‘DeCon’ is the second collection Masha Ma has shown at Vauxhall Fashion Scout, salve her MA collection was bought by bStore and she has since gone from strength to strength, winning the Mouse Ji Best International Innovation Award at the 2009 CCDC China Contemporary Design Contest.

Illustration by Avril Kelly

Illustrations by Maria del Carmen Smith

Illustrations by Maria Papadimitriou

Illustration by Natasha Thompson

All in all this was a refreshing and original collection, I’m sure I’m not the only one eagerly awaiting Masha Ma’s offering for Spring Summer 2012!

All photography by Naomi Law

You can see more of Natasha Thompson’s illustrations in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration.

Illustration by Natasha Thompson

Autumn Winter 2011’s ‘DeCon’ is the second collection Masha Ma has shown at Vauxhall Fashion Scout; her MA collection was bought by bStore and she has since gone from strength to strength, salve winning the Mouse Ji Best International Innovation Award at the 2009 CCDC China Contemporary Design Contest.

Illustration by Avril Kelly

Building on her predominantly white and silver ‘Icebreaker’ collection for Spring Summer 2011, decease Masha Ma used a subtle palette for Autumn Winter, injected with flashes of colour. Patent scarlet thigh high boots and contrast edged exposed zips complemented heavy yet tactile cashmere in a palette of dove grey, eggshell, scarlet, taupe and powder beige.

Illustrations by Maria del Carmen Smith

Illustrations by Maria Papadimitriou

Illustration by Natasha Thompson

All in all this was a refreshing and original collection, I’m sure I’m not the only one eagerly awaiting Masha Ma’s offering for Spring Summer 2012!

All photography by Naomi Law

You can see more of Natasha Thompson’s illustrations in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration.

Jasper Conran A/W 2011 by Emmi Ojala.

I’ll be honest writing this review has been a massive challenge. Shortly after enjoying the sublime craftsmanship, physician skills and undeniable beauty of Jasper’s show I ran to the On|Off venue and managed to get in to Charlie Le Mindu’s extravaganza. Had I written up Jasper before the manic sprint to Charlie I could have waxed lyrical on every piece. I remember being enthralled and excited by the collection. I even went backstage and saw the clothes up close. But the cold hard fact is that these two designers and as such shows, pills inhabit two very different worlds. After being left reeling and inspired by Charlie Le Mindu, it has been hard to do justice to Jasper Conran. For it was a stunning show.

Jasper Conran A/W 2011 by Kerri-Ann Hulme.

Last year Carnaby Street celebrated its fiftieth anniversary, rejoicing in a time when London was the centre of the trendiest youth movement at the time. Something tells me this has subconsciously filtered into the minds of several designers. The swinging sixties are back and the models at Jasper Conran definitely reflected this. A mix of Bardots, Shrimptons, and gamine girls filled the runway.

At first glance this collection was perhaps a little too literal in its inspiration. Barbarella meets fembot catsuits were there a plenty. However on closer inspection the craftsmanship that went into each piece was of an inordinately high order. Succeeding in simplicity and clean lines is no mean feat. This was no shock and awe show, allowing instead both the playful and sophisticated nature of the girls to shine through. So from a designers perspective seeing the precision binding and, the open seams held together with just the odd bartack here and there was beautiful.

Jasper Conran A/W 2011 by Kerri-Ann Hulme.

The muted chocolate, copper and aubergine tones balanced out the otherwise monochrome palette, and prevented the collection tipping over into a mere regurgitation of times gone by. Suede was laser cut to give a crocodile effect. Leather was cut into small squares that bounced playfully with model as she walked. The silhouette may have been familiar but the working of the fabric and the surface decoration was right up to date. In particular one minidress matt white sequins were mixed with opalescent ones to create an otherworldly reptilian skin. The final pieces consisted of light flowing chiffon dresses that continued the sixties feel and the playful element of the collection.

It’s been said that when a woman with cheap perfume walks past that’s all you smell, but when woman wearing a beautiful fragrance walks by you smell a beautiful woman. If the same can be said about clothes all you’ll see from this show are beautiful women.

Written by Nick Bain on Sunday March 6th, 2011 6:45 pm

Categories ,Barbarella, ,BFC, ,Brigitte Bardot, ,Carnaby Street, ,Charlie le Mindu, ,Emmi Ojala, ,Jasper Conran, ,Jean Shrimpton, ,Kerri-Ann Hulme, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,Somerset House

Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2011 Catwalk Review: Mark Fast

Masha Ma A/W 2011 by Liam McMa

Masha Ma A/W 2011 by Natsuki Otani.

Masha Ma is undoubtedly one of my very favourite designers right now so it was with utmost dismay that I encountered a major logistical error early on Sunday morning. Which required me to hot foot it back to my house in order to pick up press releases for Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration in time for the opening of Ecoluxe. In the end I managed to scoot my way into the back of the Freemasons Hall just in time to see most of the show, sick although I had to make do with the sight of my contributors happily ensconced in the front row as I craned for a view from the back. Oh the ignominy.

Masha Ma A/W 2011 DeCon. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Masha Ma A/W 2011 by Liam McMahon.

Hers is a self-described “architectural” way of designing, web cutting swathes of fabric to hang in flattering folds. Following her all white S/S Icebreaker debut, buy information pills for DeCon Masha Ma explored elegant tailoring in pale duck egg blue, dusky rose, flinty grey and ice mint.

Masha Ma A/W 2011. Photography by Tim Adey.

Crepe, satin and organza curled into delicate scrolls on collars and hips; woollen waterfalls cascaded down the front of coats. All accessorised with the most amazing come-fuck-me pillar box red boots – over the thigh, shiny and skin tight.

Masha Ma A/W 2011 DeCon. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

Eyes peeped out from below side swept fringes: sexy secretaries in tight pencil skirts. High collars were a theme, either tightly rolled polo necks or carefully pleated to bring a touch of Renaissance drama to otherwise thoroughly modern outfits.

Masha Ma A/W 2011. Photography by Tim Adey.

The show finished on a couple of beautiful black outfits, which were given that all important lift thanks to red lipstick and gloss red fingerless gloves that complemented those amazing boots. Just glorious.

Masha Ma A/W 2011 DeCon. Photography by Amelia Gregory
That’s Naomi and Tim over there that is, taking much better photos than me. I couldn’t even see the boots. Jealous, moi? Not muchly…

Click here to read a review by the much better placed Naomi Law. You can see more of Natsuki Otani’s work in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration.

Mark Fast A/W 2011 by Liam McMahon.

I cannot tell a lie, dosage having tried in vain for several seasons to get tickets, symptoms I was super excited to finally be in attendance at a Mark Fast show. Knitwear was my first love: I spent much of teens knitting 80s tastic jumpers and despite opting to specialise in printed textile design at university I eventually started a knitwear label at the same time as Amelia’s Magazine. Unfortunately it became apparent that the magazine was going to dominate my time and energy, so now my big bags of ethically dyed rare breed wool sit languishing in my parents attic.

Mark Fast A/W 2011 by Michaela Meadow.

Knitwear has been overlooked by high fashion for a long time, but in recent years there have been encouraging signs of its resurgence – with designers such as Mark Fast, Cooperative Designs and Alice Palmer leading the way. Mark has become well known for sexy figure hugging pieces with dramatic details that he creates using specialised techniques.

Mark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Loving the fairy light look!

Mark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Mark Fast A/W 2011 by Liam McMahon.

This season he worked predominantly in merino wool in oatmeal, beige, shades of orange and black to create ribbed and ridged bodycon numbers fit for the most glamourous cocktail party. He also worked in leather with Canadian retailer Danier to create complementary pieces that included sexy corseted tops, wide legged trousers and buttersoft crop jackets, worn with sheer fabric and swishing straps. High necks followed a familiar trend for A/W 2011, as did the use of deep orange. One particular standout piece was a massive round shouldered ridged cardigan that called to mind a similar piece by fellow design innovator Georgia Hardinge.

Mark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

Dresses and coats with plush shoulder bolsters worked especially well, as did the plump trim on a mini dress worn with a giant fluffy hat and platforms. Also of note was a swirling maxi skirted number with covered arms that only left the shoulders sexily bare. Boots were knee high and louche; accessories included big bangles and spiky neckpieces.

Mark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

The show ended on a showpiece backless leather hooded coat, trailing a huge train behind like a sweeping Hollywood baddie. Once more Mark Fast chose normal sized women to model his collection with the use of several “plus size” models. These lush beauties only served to emphasise the extreme skinniness of the few extremely bony girls included in the show. And the joy of it? These dresses arguably worked way better on the models of more normal size.

Mark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

This is one happy bunny to have at last seen a Mark Fast show.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Sunday March 13th, 2011 4:53 pm

Categories ,80s, ,Alice Palmer, ,BFC, ,canada, ,Cooperative Designs, ,Danier, ,Georgia Hardinge, ,knitwear, ,lfw, ,Liam McMahon, ,London Fashion Week, ,Mark Fast, ,Merino, ,Michaela Meadow, ,plus size, ,Somerset House, ,wool

Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2011 Catwalk Review: Osman (by Naomi)

Illustration by Jenny Robins

I remember blogging about Eun Jeong eons ago, order enticed by her pretty minimalism with a crisp all-white palette one season. For me, sickness she most certainly stood out amongst even the top hot-ticketers of London Fashion Week and I had an inkling she wouldn’t be a one-seasoner. I was therefore thrilled and curious upon bagging an invitation to one of her two fashion shows in Covent Garden during fashion week.??

I sat next to a lovely blogger named Hannah Newton of London Town’s a go go in another clever catwalk invention of a loop around the room, with audience-members sitting on rows inside and outside of the square. We both shamelessly ruffled through our large goody bags with tiny goodies – cosmetics and a little heart-shaped purse by Kipling. And we didn’t bother with ‘acting the part of a fashionista’ all nonchalant and ‘oh! I get free overpriced make-up on a daily basis, sweetheart. It’s no biggie.’ We’re students and we were blooming happy with our freebies.??

We just knew that the intimate set-up would result in bagging some great up-close shots of the clothes and getting a good look at the detail and fabric. Then, after a long wait sitting by the runway (as is always the way with fashion shows), 1930s music was suddenly bouncing off the walls and the models took to the oddly-shaped catwalk.

It looked to me as if the collection had been inspired by Britain in war-time. Every model wore bronzed make-up with bronzed skin all over their body and the clothes themselves were British in many respects – pleats and wool and ruffles with lady-like cuts all over the joint. There were elegant camel-coloured coats and full-skirts that began at the waist and dropped to the floor in pressed pleats.

Bows and lace were everywhere. They both seem to be a common theme this season. Delicate bows were placed on skinny leather waist-belts and thick white lace acted as beautiful underskirts.

It wasn’t all classic tea-party tailoring, however. There were a fair few twists and turns along the way. Pleated skirts bore asymmetric ruffles and tails down one side and a certain set of dresses definitely seemed to stand-out amongst the thick fabrics and classic lady-wear – bright yellow numbers that screamed out an utterly architectural print, resembling the San Francisco Bridge.

Jeong’s seemingly favourite design ethos of white white white reappeared this season with a fair few outfits almost entirely in creams and white that flowed down in thick luscious fabric – a pure and almost evangelical look that passed off beautifully.

I now know why I was taken with Eun Jeong right from her Fashion Fringe debut. Her clothes are beautiful, classic, unique and, most of all, wearable. I could, for example, most definitely see an strong office woman walking into work every day and turning heads in Eun Jeong’s statement-take on both the classical and the quintessentially British. I loved it.

Illustration by Jenny Robins

I remember blogging about Eun Jeong eons ago, find enticed by her pretty minimalism with a crisp all-white palette one season. For me, she most certainly stood out amongst even the top hot-ticketers of London Fashion Week and I had an inkling she wouldn’t be a one-seasoner. I was therefore thrilled and curious upon bagging an invitation to one of her two fashion shows in Covent Garden during fashion week.??

All photography by Georgia Takacs

Illustration by Kerri-Ann Hulme

Illustration by Madi Illustrates

Bows and lace were everywhere. They both seem to be a common theme this season. Delicate bows were placed on skinny leather waist-belts and thick white lace acted as beautiful underskirts.

See more of Jenny Robins’ illustrations in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration!

Illustration by Jenny Robins

I remember blogging about Eun Jeong eons ago, sildenafil enticed by her pretty minimalism with a crisp all-white palette one season. For me, cost she most certainly stood out amongst even the top hot-ticketers of London Fashion Week and I had an inkling she wouldn’t be a one-seasoner. I was therefore thrilled and curious upon bagging an invitation to one of her two fashion shows in Covent Garden during fashion week.??

All photography by Georgia Takacs

I sat next to a lovely blogger named Hannah Newton of London Town’s a go go in another clever catwalk invention of a loop around the room, more about with audience-members sitting on rows inside and outside of the square. We both shamelessly ruffled through our large goody bags with tiny goodies – cosmetics and a little heart-shaped purse by Kipling. And we didn’t bother with ‘acting the part of a fashionista’ all nonchalant and ‘oh! I get free overpriced make-up on a daily basis, sweetheart. It’s no biggie.’ We’re students and we were blooming happy with our freebies.??

Illustration by Kerri-Ann Hulme

Illustration by Madi Illustrates

Bows and lace were everywhere. They both seem to be a common theme this season. Delicate bows were placed on skinny leather waist-belts and thick white lace acted as beautiful underskirts.

See more of Jenny Robins’ illustrations in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration!

Illustration by Antonia Parker

Over at Osman, clinic sleek silhouettes glided gracefully down the beautiful blue ink-blotched catwalk on models sporting blunt Cleopatra bobs with eyelash-skimming fringes.

Illustrations by Alexandra Rolfe

Osman Yousefzada showed a sophisticated palette featuring lot of ivory and charcoal in sharp yet flowing shapes. Colour flooded in, and taking the form of feature linings and leather trims in rust, store scarlet, pale aqua, neon pink and lime. The show opened with a beautiful ivory dress, featuring a v-shaped accent to the bodice in bright cobalt, echoing the beauiful inky stripe printed on the catwalk itself.

Illustrations by Donya Todd

The chic and sharply flared wide leg trousers were particularly prominent, billowing around the models’ legs as they sashayed their way towards the photographers’ pit. I was sitting way back in the sixth row but semi-successfully found a gap in the rows of heads to capture some of the looks. Key pieces seemed to keep on coming; dresses with contrast-lined capelets, black leather with hot pink horizontal stripes, a Morticia-length charcoal wool dress, a leather-fronted blouse with bright orange floor-length tied tails to the back, the list goes on.

Illustration by Madi Illustrates

Illustrations by Kerri-Ann Hulme

Photography by Naomi Law

There was a hint of the 1960s with a-line shapes and geometric capped sleeves, but pattern or ornamentation was minimal, save for one striking orange chiffon dress with chocolate brown embroidery. The collection managed to make crayon brights into something more sophisticated – the careful balance of colour and monotone combined with expert tailoring in subtly varyied textures was sharp, modern and crisp.

Illustrations by Rachel Lewis

There were two show-stopping floor-length black dresses with dramatic fluffy sleeves so huge I assumed they must be fake fur (hence asking two of our illustrators to work from these designs). I was disgusted to discover later that Osman has made the vile decision to use real fur in his collections. It’s nasty enough that anyone would choose to use animal fur in the first place, but even harder to understand when they’re going to end up dyeing it a completely unnatural colour anyway. Unfortunately this took the shine off the collection, none of this next season thank you!

Illustration by Antonia Parker

See more of Antonia Parker’s illustrations in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration!

Written by Naomi Law on Wednesday March 9th, 2011 1:37 pm

Categories ,1960s, ,A/W 2011, ,Alexandra Rolfe, ,Antonia Parker, ,BFC, ,Brights, ,Catwalk review, ,Chic, ,Cleopatra, ,Cobalt, ,Donya Todd, ,fashion, ,Fur, ,Hot Pink, ,Kerri-Ann Hulme, ,London Fashion Week, ,Naomi Law, ,Osman Yousefzada, ,Rachel Lewis, ,Somerset House, ,Womenswear

Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2011 Menswear Day Catwalk Review: Cassette Playa

A La Disposition A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory

A La Disposition A/W 2011 by Zarina Liew.

Biggest surprise of London Fashion Week? À La Disposition, search about which I knew nothing prior to their show at Fashion Scout. It’s really nice to go to a show and feel like you’ve discovered something exciting – it’s one of the reasons I enjoy LFW so much, and and especially going to the smaller shows. After all, discovering new talent is something I’ve always loved doing in Amelia’s Magazine.

A La Disposition A/W 2011 by Zoe Georgiou of Soul Water.

An American husband and wife team, Lynda Cohen Kinne and Daniel Kinne of À La Disposition describe themselves as the fusion of form and function and for The Utopian Aviary collection they looked at the social structures, mimicry and mating displays of birds. This translated into an incredibly modern silhouette based on structures of times past: tight capes, over-developed coat tails that looked like wings and gigantic neck ruffles reminiscent of the medieval era. This was a super confident collection which showcased some superb pattern cutting skills.

A La Disposition A/W 2011 by Emma Lucy Watson.

The Utopian Aviary opened with a stunning faux fur concoction: skirt layered more like the wings of a beetle than a bird, cape bunched around the shoulders in striped tones of greys. Black, deep green, jades and autumnal reds dominated the ensuing outfits, created in luxe fabrics: silk, taffeta and chiffon.

A La Disposition A/W 2011 by Zoe Georgiou of Soul Water.

A digitalised moire print featured on dress and blouse. Red buttons provided a contrasting punch to forest green velvet and waists were high and thighs puffed out, topped with exaggerated wing-collared pinstripe shirts and accessorised with fake wool leggings. Shoulder details called to mind the layered shapes of petals on a cross fronted jacket. A shot of deepest honey yellow was a searing burst of winter sunshine.

A La Disposition A/W 2011 by Zarina Liew.

Models had teased up-dos that emulated the chaotic structure of birds’ nests, red alienesque contacts and eyes deeply rimmed with black. The overall effect was nigh on futuristic.

A La Disposition A/W 2011 by Sophie Pickup.

Gigantic breast ruffles appeared on coats and looped down the chest in marled knitwear, extending outwards and upwards until, peacock like, a model appeared bearing a stunning ruffled contraption which rose like cantilevered architecture from the back of her neck in a delicious deep copper metallic silk. Behind, the ruffles cascaded like an echo down the back of her skirt. What a revelation!

A La Disposition A/W 2011 by Sam Parr.

Also of mention was the bulging goodie bags on the front row which contained two bottles of the new À La Disposition perfume {{intangible}}. These are composed of the same base ingredients, but with alternating top notes so that they can either be worn alone or together. Created by boutique perfume maker Carvansons I’ve yet to be convinced of their wonder, but the press release is indeed as *intangible* as it was for the The Utopian Aviary show.

A La Disposition A/W 2011 by Sam Parr.

I always write my first draft about a show before I read the accompanying press release because I don’t want it to influence my initial perceptions – like good artwork I feel that a collection should stand alone without any kind of explanation. Which leads me to my final word for À La Disposition: keep it simple. There’s no need for overwrought descriptions, especially when the quality of showmanship itself does the talking.

A La Disposition A/W 2011 by Zarina Liew.

Biggest surprise of London Fashion Week? À La Disposition, visit web about which I knew nothing prior to their show at Fashion Scout. It’s really nice to go to a show and feel like you’ve discovered something exciting – it’s one of the reasons I enjoy LFW so much, medicine and especially going to the smaller shows. After all, discovering new talent is something I’ve always loved doing in Amelia’s Magazine.

A La Disposition A/W 2011 by Zoe Georgiou of Soul Water.

A La Disposition A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

A La Disposition A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory
A La Disposition A/W 2011 by Emma Lucy Watson.

A La Disposition A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory
A La Disposition A/W 2011 by Zoe Georgiou of Soul Water.

A La Disposition A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory
A La Disposition A/W 2011 by Zarina Liew.

Models had teased up-dos that emulated the chaotic structure of birds’ nests, red alienesque contacts and eyes deeply rimmed with black. The overall effect was nigh on futuristic.

A La Disposition A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory
A La Disposition A/W 2011 by Sophie Pickup.

A La Disposition A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory
A La Disposition A/W 2011 by Sam Parr.

A La Disposition A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory

A La Disposition A/W 2011 by Sam Parr.

Biggest surprise of London Fashion Week? À La Disposition, viagra 60mg about which I knew nothing prior to their show at Fashion Scout. It’s really nice to go to a show and feel like you’ve discovered something exciting – it’s one of the reasons I enjoy LFW so much, treatment and especially going to the smaller shows. After all, cialis 40mg discovering new talent is something I’ve always loved doing in Amelia’s Magazine.

A La Disposition A/W 2011 by Zoe Georgiou of Soul Water.

A La Disposition A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

A La Disposition A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory
A La Disposition A/W 2011 by Emma Lucy Watson.

A La Disposition A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory
A La Disposition A/W 2011 by Zoe Georgiou of Soul Water.

A La Disposition A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory
A La Disposition A/W 2011 by Zarina Liew.

Models had teased up-dos that emulated the chaotic structure of birds’ nests, red alienesque contacts and eyes deeply rimmed with black. The overall effect was nigh on futuristic.

A La Disposition A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory
A La Disposition A/W 2011 by Sophie Pickup.

A La Disposition A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory
A La Disposition A/W 2011 by Sam Parr.

A La Disposition A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory

A La Disposition A/W 2011 by Sam Parr.

You can see more work by Zarina Liew in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration.

Illustration by Gabriel Ayala

I’ve always approached Cassette Playa with caution. She’s responsible for making Shoreditch look like a live Pump up The Jam video and has a lot to answer for when it comes to one of my good friends’ questionable fashion choices.

All photography by Matt Bramford

And then what happened? Well, thumb I can’t tell you, more about but I at least didn’t here anything for a while; I’m sure Carrie Mundane didn’t disappear, you probably had to look a bit harder than I was (i.e, not at all). Then, when the schedules were released at the beginning of the year, there was Cassette Playa on Menswear Day. I have to admit I got a little excited – last season’s KTZ show was one of the highlights and really mixed up Menswear Day in a sea of classic tailoring and less-than-experimental clobber for blokes, and I expected Cassette Playa would do the same.

Illustration by Krister Selin

Unsurprisingly the show was packed with all sorts of fashion-forward dressers, including one flamboyant gent sporting a Katie Eary PVC rabbit mask. At regular intervals he removed it to deeply inhale because he clearly couldn’t breathe behind it. Well, I ask you.

As the glamorous polythene sheet was removed from the catwalk and the lights began to dim, a rather flustered PR boy shoved me along the front row shouting ‘We’ve got to seat Charlie! We’ve GOT TO SEAT CHARLIE!’ As I pondered the different Charlies that could warrant such a reaction, Charlie Porter from Fantastic Man took a seat at the side of me and I wondered if that was all really necessary.

Illustration by Gemma Milly

I don’t know what’s changed since nu-rave had its day, but I bloody loved this show. A marriage of rude boys, rockers and thugs, this comeback collection had a bit of everything. This definitely wasn’t a collection for the sartorial dresser; not a single (or doubled-breasted) blazer in sight.

Leather and denim jackets were jazzed up with all sorts of various emblems representing various subcultures: rocker flames and hip-hop graffiti, for example. Cable-knit hooded sweaters in grey (worn on the most tattooed man I’ve ever seen, save on the pages of Pick Me Up Magazine) were embellished with embroidered graphic logos and teamed with baby pink shorts, and one of my favourite pieces was an oversized grey jersey t-shirt with an enormous leather motif in pink.

Padded jackets famed on East End market stalls were emblazoned with the Cassette Playa logo came in varied, vibrant colours and were worn with oversized rucksacks and trousers with acid graphic prints that bordered on hallucinogenic.

Illustration by Antonia Parker

A bit of womenswear showed up to – more references to music subcultures on body-conscious short dresses with sleeves. These were modelled by a curvaceous chick who swaggered up and down to the sounds of metal music, and it was bloody marvellous to see a model with sex appeal rather than the dead-behind-the-eyes waif I’d grown accustomed to this season.

Illustration by Gareth A Hopkins

The lights dimmed, and the second half of the show brought out models sprayed head-to-toe in gold to celebrate the 50th anniversary of Ken (of Barbie fame) – the ‘ultimate boyfriend’. CP X Ken is a capsule collection which features mostly black garments with Cassette Playa’s unique mix of prints and embellishments – silk rose-printed shirts, baseball jackets with patches, that sort of thing. I have to admit, when a model is gold and has enormous breasts (I’m talking about a menswear show, here) the clothes can go unnoticed.

So, consider me now a fan of Cassette Playa. Soz, Carrie, that I ever doubted you. Welcome back!

See more of Gareth A Hopkins, Gemma Milly, Antonia Parker and Krister Selin’s illustrations in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration!

Written by Matt Bramford on Tuesday March 15th, 2011 12:29 pm

Categories ,A/W 2011, ,Antonia Parker, ,AW11, ,Barbie, ,BFC, ,Carrie Mundane, ,Cassette Playa, ,catwalk, ,East End, ,Fantastic Man, ,Gabriel Alaya, ,Gareth A Hopkins, ,Gemma Milly, ,Gold, ,Ken, ,Krister Selin, ,London Fashion Week, ,menswear, ,metal, ,Nu-rave, ,Pick Me Up Magazine, ,Pump Up The Jam, ,review, ,shoreditch

Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2011 Menswear Day Catwalk Review: Christopher Shannon

KTZ A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.
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KTZ A/W 2011 by Andrea Peterson, order aka Artist Andrea.

I wasn’t going to go into Somerset House on Wednesday, I really wasn’t. But the lure of a new Kokon To Zai collection was just too much. And boy was I glad that I did head into town for what turned out to be one of my very favourites shows of the week.

KTZ A/W 2011 by LJG Art and Illustration.

On entering an extremely packed BFC tent (menswear seemed much busier this season) I was left wondering where to sit when Lida Hujic grabbed me and led me to a prime spot near the catwalk entrance, right next to Prince Cassius, Leroy of Diary of a Clothes Horse and, rem…. the Bosnian ambassador. There’s nothing like a bit of diversity on the front row!

KTZ A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

KTZ A/W 2011 by Kayleigh Bluck.

Building on their monochromatic S/S season KTZ served up a primary coloured delight…. a little bit 80s, a little bit Memphis and a whole lot of fun. Calder-like 80s graphic sculptures rose in whorls out of heads. Huge ball bangles created bold wrist protuberances.

KTZ A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

KTZ A/W 2011 by Maria Papadimitriou.

Earrings, necklaces, brooches and sunglasses were striped, gold, abstracted statements. And for the men? Primary coloured balaclavas with bobbles: part bank robber, part cold small child.

KTZ A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

KTZ groupies by Andrea Peterson, aka Artist Andrea.

But, onto the main course. This was a massive collection that took in easy to wear striped jersey tops and Dynasty meets Mondrian statement dresses with amazing marbled, flounce waists and layered tailoring. For men there were patent leather jackets, striped trousers and zig zag braces. The shoes are most definitely worth a mention – striped and block-heeled for women, platformed and buckled for the men – they were a wonderful complement to the clothing.

KTZ A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.
KTZ A/W 2011 by Antonia-Parker-
KTZ A/W 2011 by Antonia Parker.

But then I started to worry, just a little bit, that a dampener was about to be put on my enthusiasm. These days it really is so hard to tell what is real fur and what is not, and without the aid of a press release I presumed the former. Luckily I was put right straight away through the power of twitter when KTZ informed me that only fake fur was used to create the fabulous oversized pompom scarf and killer colour hooded duffle coat.

KTZ A/W 2011 by Kellie Black.

I think I’m in love… I actually left this show beaming from ear to ear, and I can’t often say that. Major kudos must surely be given to Anna Trevelyan for styling this show, she who also styled the Alex Noble installation, and Charlie Le Mindu’s show. This lady has got some seriously diverse and wonderful ideas going on. You can follow her adventures on twitter here.

Kokon to Zai by Dan Stafford.

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KTZ A/W 2011 by Andrea Peterson, aka Artist Andrea.

KTZ A/W 2011 by LJG Art and Illustration.

KTZ A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

KTZ A/W 2011 by Kayleigh Bluck.

KTZ A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

KTZ A/W 2011 by Maria Papadimitriou.

Earrings, necklaces, brooches and sunglasses were striped, gold, abstracted statements. And for the men? Primary coloured balaclavas with bobbles: part bank robber, part cold small child.

KTZ A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

KTZ groupies by Andrea Peterson, aka Artist Andrea.

KTZ A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.
KTZ A/W 2011 by Antonia-Parker-
KTZ A/W 2011 by Antonia Parker.

KTZ A/W 2011 by Kellie Black.

KTZ A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

Kokon to Zai by Dan Stafford.

KTZ A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

You can see more work by Andrea Peterson, Antonia Parker and Kellie Black in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration.
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KTZ A/W 2011 by Andrea Peterson, aka Artist Andrea.

KTZ A/W 2011 by LJG Art and Illustration.

KTZ A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

KTZ A/W 2011 by Kayleigh Bluck.

KTZ A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

KTZ A/W 2011 by Maria Papadimitriou.

Earrings, necklaces, brooches and sunglasses were striped, gold, abstracted statements. And for the men? Primary coloured balaclavas with bobbles: part bank robber, part cold small child.

KTZ A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

KTZ groupies by Andrea Peterson, aka Artist Andrea.

KTZ A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.
KTZ A/W 2011 by Antonia-Parker-
KTZ A/W 2011 by Antonia Parker.

KTZ A/W 2011 by Kellie Black.

KTZ A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

Kokon to Zai by Dan Stafford.

KTZ A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

You can see more work by Andrea Peterson, Antonia Parker and Kellie Black in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration.
pills aka Artist Andrea” title=”KTZ A/W 2011 by Andrea Peterson, aka Artist Andrea” width=”480″ height=”595″ class=”aligncenter size-full wp-image-37005″ />
KTZ A/W 2011 by Andrea Peterson, aka Artist Andrea.

KTZ A/W 2011 by LJG Art and Illustration.

KTZ A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

KTZ A/W 2011 by Kayleigh Bluck.

KTZ A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

KTZ A/W 2011 by Maria Papadimitriou.

Earrings, necklaces, brooches and sunglasses were striped, gold, abstracted statements. And for the men? Primary coloured balaclavas with bobbles: part bank robber, part cold small child.

KTZ A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

KTZ groupies by Andrea Peterson, aka Artist Andrea.

KTZ A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.
KTZ A/W 2011 by Antonia-Parker-
KTZ A/W 2011 by Antonia Parker.

KTZ A/W 2011 by Kellie Black.

KTZ A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

Kokon to Zai by Dan Stafford.

KTZ A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

You can see more work by Andrea Peterson, Antonia Parker and Kellie Black in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration.
discount aka Artist Andrea” title=”KTZ A/W 2011 by Andrea Peterson, remedy aka Artist Andrea” width=”480″ height=”595″ class=”aligncenter size-full wp-image-37005″ />
KTZ A/W 2011 by Andrea Peterson, site aka Artist Andrea.

KTZ A/W 2011 by LJG Art and Illustration.

On entering an extremely packed BFC tent (menswear seemed much busier this season) I was left wondering where to sit when Lida Hujic grabbed me and led me to a prime spot near the catwalk entrance, right next to Prince Cassius, Leroy of Diary of a Clothes Horse and, erm…. the Bosnian ambassador. There’s nothing like a bit of diversity on the front row!

KTZ A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

KTZ A/W 2011 by Kayleigh Bluck.

KTZ A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

KTZ A/W 2011 by Maria Papadimitriou.

Earrings, necklaces, brooches and sunglasses were striped, gold, abstracted statements. And for the men? Primary coloured balaclavas with bobbles: part bank robber, part cold small child.

KTZ A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

KTZ groupies by Andrea Peterson, aka Artist Andrea.

KTZ A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.
KTZ A/W 2011 by Antonia-Parker-
KTZ A/W 2011 by Antonia Parker.

KTZ A/W 2011 by Kellie Black.

KTZ A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

Kokon to Zai by Dan Stafford.

KTZ A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

You can see more work by Andrea Peterson, Antonia Parker and Kellie Black in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration.
hospital aka Artist Andrea” title=”KTZ A/W 2011 by Andrea Peterson, pilule aka Artist Andrea” width=”480″ height=”595″ class=”aligncenter size-full wp-image-37005″ />
KTZ A/W 2011 by Andrea Peterson, order aka Artist Andrea.

KTZ A/W 2011 by LJG Art and Illustration.

On entering an extremely packed BFC tent (menswear seemed much busier this season) I was left wondering where to sit when Lida Hujic grabbed me and led me to a prime spot near the catwalk entrance, right next to Prince Cassius, Leroy of Diary of a Clothes Horse and, erm…. the Bosnian ambassador. There’s nothing like a bit of diversity on the front row!

KTZ A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

KTZ A/W 2011 by Kayleigh Bluck.

KTZ A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

KTZ A/W 2011 by Maria Papadimitriou.

Earrings, necklaces, brooches and sunglasses were striped, gold, abstracted statements. And for the men? Primary coloured balaclavas with bobbles: part bank robber, part cold small child.

KTZ A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

KTZ groupies by Andrea Peterson, aka Artist Andrea.

KTZ A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.
KTZ A/W 2011 by Antonia-Parker-
KTZ A/W 2011 by Antonia Parker.

KTZ A/W 2011 by Kellie Black.

KTZ A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

Kokon to Zai by Dan Stafford.

KTZ A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

You can see more work by Andrea Peterson, Antonia Parker and Kellie Black in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration.
medications aka Artist Andrea” title=”KTZ A/W 2011 by Andrea Peterson, buy information pills aka Artist Andrea” width=”480″ height=”595″ class=”aligncenter size-full wp-image-37005″ />
KTZ A/W 2011 by Andrea Peterson, aka Artist Andrea.

KTZ A/W 2011 by LJG Art and Illustration.

On entering an extremely packed BFC tent (menswear seemed much busier this season) I was left wondering where to sit when Lida Hujic grabbed me and led me to a prime spot near the catwalk entrance, right next to Prince Cassius, Leroy of Diary of a Clothes Horse and, erm…. the Bosnian ambassador. There’s nothing like a bit of diversity on the front row!

KTZ A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

KTZ A/W 2011 by Kayleigh Bluck.

KTZ A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

KTZ A/W 2011 by Maria Papadimitriou.

Earrings, necklaces, brooches and sunglasses were striped, gold, abstracted statements. And for the men? Primary coloured balaclavas with bobbles: part bank robber, part cold small child.

KTZ A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

KTZ groupies by Andrea Peterson, aka Artist Andrea.

KTZ A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.
KTZ A/W 2011 by Antonia-Parker-
KTZ A/W 2011 by Antonia Parker.

KTZ A/W 2011 by Kellie Black.

KTZ A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

I think I’m in love… I actually left this show beaming from ear to ear, and I can’t often say that. Major kudos must surely be given to Anna Trevelyan for the styling; she also styled the Alex Noble installation, and Charlie Le Mindu’s show. This lady has got some seriously diverse and wonderful ideas going on. You can follow her adventures on twitter here.

KTZ A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.
Kokon to Zai by Dan Stafford.

KTZ A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

You can see more work by Andrea Peterson, Antonia Parker and Kellie Black in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration.
look aka Artist Andrea” title=”KTZ A/W 2011 by Andrea Peterson, hospital aka Artist Andrea” width=”480″ height=”595″ class=”aligncenter size-full wp-image-37005″ />
KTZ A/W 2011 by Andrea Peterson, aka Artist Andrea.

KTZ A/W 2011 by LJG Art and Illustration.

On entering an extremely packed BFC tent (menswear seemed much busier this season) I was left wondering where to sit when Lida Hujic grabbed me and led me to a prime spot near the catwalk entrance, right next to Prince Cassius, Leroy of Diary of a Clothes Horse and, erm…. the Bosnian ambassador. There’s nothing like a bit of diversity on the front row!

KTZ A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

KTZ A/W 2011 by Kayleigh Bluck.

KTZ A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

KTZ A/W 2011 by Maria Papadimitriou.

Earrings, necklaces, brooches and sunglasses were striped, gold, abstracted statements. And for the men? Primary coloured balaclavas with bobbles: part bank robber, part cold small child.

KTZ A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

KTZ groupies by Andrea Peterson, aka Artist Andrea.

KTZ A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.
KTZ A/W 2011 by Antonia-Parker-
KTZ A/W 2011 by Antonia Parker.

KTZ A/W 2011 by Kellie Black.

KTZ A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

KTZ A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.
Kokon to Zai by Dan Stafford.

KTZ A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

You can see more work by Andrea Peterson, Antonia Parker and Kellie Black in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration.
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KTZ A/W 2011 by Andrea Peterson, symptoms aka Artist Andrea.

KTZ A/W 2011 by LJG Art and Illustration.

On entering an extremely packed BFC tent (menswear seemed much busier this season) I was left wondering where to sit when Lida Hujic grabbed me and led me to a prime spot near the catwalk entrance, right next to Prince Cassius, Leroy of Diary of a Clothes Horse and, erm…. the Bosnian ambassador. There’s nothing like a bit of diversity on the front row!

KTZ A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

KTZ A/W 2011 by Kayleigh Bluck.

KTZ A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

KTZ A/W 2011 by Maria Papadimitriou.

Earrings, necklaces, brooches and sunglasses were striped, gold, abstracted statements. And for the men? Primary coloured balaclavas with bobbles: part bank robber, part cold small child.

KTZ A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

KTZ groupies by Andrea Peterson, aka Artist Andrea.

KTZ A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.
KTZ A/W 2011 by Antonia-Parker-
KTZ A/W 2011 by Antonia Parker.

But then I started to worry, just a little bit, that a dampener was about to be put on my enthusiasm. These days it really is so hard to tell what is real fur and what is not, and without the aid of a press release I presumed the former. Luckily I was put right straight away after the show through the power of twitter when KTZ informed me that only fake fur was used to create the fabulous oversized pompom scarf and killer colour hooded duffle coat.

KTZ A/W 2011 by Kellie Black.

KTZ A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

KTZ A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.
Kokon to Zai by Dan Stafford.

KTZ A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

You can see more work by Andrea Peterson, Antonia Parker and Kellie Black in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration.

Illustration by Krister Selin

Christopher Shannon burst back on to the catwalk on Menswear Day at London Fashion Week in typical chav-luxe fashion. Menswear day was a bit hot and cold this season – some of the shows were extremely busy, healing but when I arrived at Christopher Shannon’s there didn’t seem to be that many attendees, so I plonked myself on the front row and fiddled with my iPhone in a bid to look belonging and important. I even adjusted my crumbling posture (which is hella difficult after the cruel strains of back-to-back slumping at shows).

Illustration by Michelle Urvall Nyrén

The show soon filled up, mind, and I was squashed along the frankly miserable BFC benches. Shannon’s infamous taste in music with which I wholeheartedly side (Rihanna’s What’s My Name and Te Amo being this season’s choice tunes) began the show, and out popped the street-cast models we’re familiar with. Some of them look terrified, some achingly nonchalant, but all are suited to Shannon’s unique take on menswear.

All photography by Matt Bramford

A mix of jersey sweatshirts, scarves and oversized rucksacks started the show – each with a Shannon twist. Shirts were cut through the middle to mix up the patterns – this time with a more ‘worldly’ influence. His obsession with sportswear derives from the fact that wherever you go, ‘there’s always sportswear’ – too true – and Shannon has drawn upon the variations of sportswear in different cultures for this ‘Hold Yer Head Up’ collection.

Illustration by Oscar Rubio

Bolder prints – abstract forms that have a more biological feel (influenced by his affection for David Attenborough!) make up the body of designs. Later came shirts separated down the middle in varying ways – sometimes texture, sometimes colour. Some shirts had woven-blanket details with different kitsch embellishments – a surprising move but a welcome one nonetheless.

Shannon’s clean nylons were spiced up with some frou-frou details this season – I wouldn’t be seen dead in any of this (mostly because my friends would snort, point and laugh) but I think the aesthetic of it is just fabulous. The lights, imposing over the catwalk, bounced in between each ruffle to give a shiny, futuristic look. A colour palette of navy blue, black, grey came with splashes of colour from the woven elements and bits of baby pink to remind us that this is still sportswear. Flat caps and flashy vibrant trainers complimented each outfit.

Illustration by Maria Papadimitriou

Much preferred the Eastpak collaboration rucksacks this time – again, the woven blanket details showed up and looked ace.

But, in spite of all this, I’ll forever remember Christopher Shannon’s A/W 2011 outing for those incredible Frank Sidebottom-esque hair-dos and embellished eyebrows. Why, you might ask? Because this is FASHION, darling.

See more of Krister Selin and Michelle Urval Nyrén’s illustrations in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration!

Written by Matt Bramford on Thursday March 10th, 2011 1:45 pm

Categories ,A/W 2011, ,BFC, ,chavs, ,Christopher Shannon, ,Eastpak, ,Ethnic, ,Eyebrows, ,Flat caps, ,Frank Sidebottom, ,Krister Selin, ,London Fashion Week, ,Luxe, ,Maria Papadimitriou, ,Menswear Day, ,Michelle Urvall Nyrén, ,Oscar Rubio, ,Rihanna, ,Rucksacks, ,Somerset House, ,sportswear, ,Te Amo, ,What’s My Name?

Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2011 Menswear Day Catwalk Review: KTZ (by Matt)

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Gabby Young at Selfridges, physician illustrated by Sam Parr

The ‘Supermarket Sarah’ pop-up shop opened last month in Selfridges stationery department, viagra 60mg I attended Friday’s opening night to check it out. Press, pharmacy designers and shoppers celebrated the opening with Campari cocktails whilst enjoying an energetic acoustic set from Gabby Young.

Back in December 2009 I visited Poke Design Studios at The Biscuit Factory for Supermarket Sarah’s Christmas Extravaganza, on behalf of Amelia’s. A year on and Sarah has had wide press coverage, and has celebrity followers such as; Lily Allen, Lindsay Lohan, Tinie Tempah and La Roux. ‘Supermarket’ Sarah Bagner seems, however, unphased by all the attention and continues to do what she does best; sourcing an eclectic mix of quirky vintage finds and indie crafts, and displaying her discoveries in an inspiring and creative way. Starting out in her home in Portobello, Sarah would beautifully arrange her own walls with items to buy and serve customers tea and cakes. The launch of her website expanded her work outside of her living room and has allowed her to exhibit in a variety of locations. Using the website, customers can browse through the items displayed on real walls as part of styled stories.

Illustration by Madi Illustrates

The retro-inspired Selfridges store layout holds shelves of vintage china trinkets, playful plastic jewellery and quirky gifts and accessories, all organized into the walls four sections; Super Stuff, New Designers, Vintage and Gallery where Sarah presents a designer she admires. Currently the Gallery space presents the work of Eley Kishimoto. The collection of printed accessories include; iPhone covers, textiles, limited edition screen printed books, and even a skateboard.

Sarah’s hand-picked selection of designers are given the opportunity to have items displayed in the Supermarket-style ‘gallery’. Carefully thought out curation and styling mean each piece compliments each other, contributing to the personal nature of the ‘Supermarket Sarah’ shopping experience. It was great to see the interactivity at play between customer and product; this interactivity is also achieved on the Supermarket Sarah online platform.

Illustration by Danni Bradford

My favourite pieces included; cross stitch badges from Ma Magasin, Mell Elliot’s Lady Gaga paper doll and Strawberry Creme Nouveau‘s rubber moulded biscuit brooches. John Booth’s eccentric bag charms, Nick White fake tattoos, Katy Leigh‘s painted egg cups, and YCN‘s ‘Light up your mood’ light switch stickers, all also deserve a mention. And other great designers involved include Tatty Devine, Patternity, Donna Wilson, Lynn Hatzius, Swedish Blonde Design and Rina Donnersmarck.

Bringing a sense of Portobello Market to London’s central shopping location. ‘Supermarket Sarah’ at Selfridges gives tourists a sense of what the London vintage and craft scene is all about. Congratulations to all involved!

Gabby Young at Selfridges, approved illustrated by Sam Parr

The ‘Supermarket Sarah’ pop-up shop opened last month in Selfridges stationery department, information pills I attended Friday’s opening night to check it out. Press, designers and shoppers celebrated the opening with Campari cocktails whilst enjoying an energetic acoustic set from Gabby Young.

Illustration by Madi Illustrates

Illustration by Danni Bradford

All photographs by Ester Kneen

Illustration by Jo Cheung

So after a rollercoaster six days, clinic Menswear Day and London Fashion Week drew to a close with hip-store Kokon To Zai’s label, KTZ, and what would be my final show of this season. I absolutely loved what they did last season, and I couldn’t wait to see what they’d come up with next.

All photography by Matt Bramford

A heavily policed front row meant me and illustrator Gareth took seats on the second, but I managed to get on the end so that my pictures would make it look like I was Frowing all along. I was bloody exhausted and feeling very sorry for myself, and I couldn’t help but wish that they’d just get on with it and stop papping people wearing pig masks. My legs wobbled and I struggled to keep my eyes open, but when the music started and the first look appeared, I quickly forgot my woes.

Illustration by June Chanpoomidole

Illustration by Thomas Leadbetter

Memphis-inspired fashion? I thought I’d died and gone to heaven. A pumpin’ soundtrack blasted from the PA system as gorgeous models (more women than men, but who cares?) sashayed up and down the length of the BFC tent. Stripes were a plenty on figure-hugging dresses with sweetheart necklines that feature extra flaps in that Pop Art/Memphis splatter pattern. Vibrant primary colours made black dresses playful: such a sophisticated, considered collection expertly styled by wonder-styilst Anna Trevelyan.

A whole load of other influences filtered into this power collection – the womenswear referenced power dressing from the 1980s (think Dynasty) and Mondrian’s prints; the menswear also digging up the eighties with (faux!) fur lapels and broad shoulders.

Illustration by Abby Wright

I have to admit, I did prefer the womenswear – it was far more wearable for fashion-forward ladies and it oozed sex appeal with dresses cut above the knee and details in all the right places to emphasise the curves. The menswear featured striped balaclavas topped with pom-poms, acrylic brooches which referenced the womenswear, over-sized imposing puffa jackets and graphic-print trousers. But it’ll be the womenswear that cements Kokontozai’s place as one of London’s hottest design duos.

Illustration by Lesley Barnes

Huge orb-like creations were worn on wrists, picking out patterns from lapels. And, oh, the cuts! Dynamic pieces of fabric were layered onto classic tailored pieces to give them a seriously sexy aesthetic. This was a collection that was playful but sophisticated at the same – a really difficult challenge to pull off.

Illustration by Valerie Pezeron

I loved EVERYTHING about it. I can’t put it into words, so just have a look at the pictures. Oh, and read Amelia’s more comprehensive and articulate review here!

You can see more from Jo Cheung, June Chanpoomidole, Abby Wright and Lesley Barnes in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration!

Written by Matt Bramford on Tuesday March 15th, 2011 5:29 pm

Categories ,Abby Wright, ,ACOFI, ,Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration, ,Anna Trevelyan, ,BFC, ,Dynasty, ,Faux Fur, ,Jo Cheung, ,June Chanpoomidole, ,Kokon To Zai, ,KTZ, ,Lesley Barnes, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,Memphis, ,menswear, ,Mondrian, ,Pop Art, ,Primary, ,Somerset House, ,Thomas Leadbetter, ,Valerie Pezeron

Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2011 Catwalk Review: Simon Ekrelius

Simon Ekrelius S/S 2011, illustrated by Antonia Parker

After a terrible morning trying to fix my sodding bike, giving up, taking it to Evans Cycles, regretting that because the employee was an arse and then persuading him to eventually fix it, I cycled precariously to Victoria House with one brake and the other attached with Blu-Tack to catch Simon Ekrelius‘ show. I didn’t know anything of Ekrelius until today but whenever I mentioned his name people would practically fall at my feet (perhaps wishing they were falling at his).

Well, it turns out the hype my small circle of friends had built was deserved. I decided to stand with the macho photographers in the pit this time to experiment with a different angle for images. If only I had known the following three facts.

1. Photographers are nasty
2. I was standing in the front of the world’s loudest speaker
3. Simon Ekrelius had chosen shot gun noises to launch his show.

Imagine my surprise when the crowd were shushed, the lights fell low, and the BANG BANG BANG started up behind me. Jesus Christ. My entire self moved three feet across the room, at which point the whole of the photographer’s pit descended into cackles of laughter. And who can blame them? I was as red as a peach.

Illustration by Antonia Parker

As the first model strutted down the catwalk, I desperately tried to pull myself together, which didn’t take too long as the attention was quickly diverted to what the models had on offer. These girls were not shy. They had clearly been directed to march to the front in the normal fashion, but then as they made their way back, to walk in a zig-zag pattern and stop periodically to pose. And pose they did, rather fabulously. It was HILARIOUS, particularly when we got to the nudity part of the show and front rowers were subjected to bare arses in their face…

I should probably say something about the fashion by now. Well, it was grand. Pretty much everything was translucent or transparent in some way, hence the abundance of gratuitous arse and tit. There were some fabulous monochrome numbers inspired by graphic art, which were split directly down the middle or by the use of geometric shapes – this worked best on all-in-one catsuit numbers, which were teamed with huge brimmed hats that had the front row bloggers throwing their cameras in the air in unison.

Illustration by Antonia Parker

The use of such shiny materials with oodles of aesthetic appeal made a sometimes basic collection of cropped separates and halter-neck playsuits into a more futuristic one. Exaggarated shoulders and high waistlines were delivered with masculine tailoring, creating a dominative silhouette. Accessorised with blue-rinse hair piled on top of heads, huge sunglasses and coral lips, the styling was superb.

The show continued with more dramatic silhouettes, lots more monochrome (which worked SO well, I have to say) and then it got a little sillier with these transparent numbers I was speaking of. I mean, they were actually amazing in terms of conception and craftsmanship, but nobody’s going to leave the house like that, are they? That would be arrestable, surely? I bet they’d look great with a modest vest or something underneath. I’d imagine. But all that flesh was a little too much for me (thank god I hadn’t taken my allocated seat on the front row, or I might have ended up with an arse in my face like so many onlookers.)

All in all, though, a fab outing for Mr Ekrelius. Less tit next time, please. Right, next up, Charlie le Mindu and those vaginas. Good heavens.

All photography by Matt Bramford

Written by Matt Bramford on Sunday September 19th, 2010 7:54 pm

Categories ,Antonia Parker, ,Arse, ,BFC, ,catwalk, ,London Fashion Week, ,onoff, ,Plastics, ,review, ,S/S 2011, ,show, ,Simon Ekrelius, ,Tit, ,Transparent, ,Womenswear

Amelia’s Magazine | Kinder Aggugini: London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Catwalk Review

Kinder Aggugini S/S 2013 by Emma Reynolds

After salivating and sweating at the Sister by Sibling salon show, I headed to the main tent to catch Kinder Aggugini‘s S/S 2013 offering. I was only given a standing ticket, but I don’t mind at this venue. It’s much better than being on the 24th row, stuck behind some berk fashioning ridiculous millinery, so I patiently waited in the standing queue with the rest of the commoners. It suddenly became ridiculous. The overbearing security ‘guard’ on the door operated in a way more suited to a Tiger Tiger in Croydon – shouting at anybody that dare ask him if they were in the right queue. When one girl who had clearly had enough of his bullish manner told him to ‘go and have a w*nk‘ it took all my strength to stifle giggles.

Kinder Aggugini S/S 2013 by Maya Beus

Inside, I was utterly gobsmacked. The venue was, at most, a quarter full. Why on Earth had we been subjected to such a palaver outside? It was like Olympics seatinggate all over again. I perched on the end of the second row only to be moved to the front as the show was about to start. It’s pretty depressing when this happens, considering the physical and financial strain put on new designers only to half fill a venue. And, I was about to discover, it was to be an unmissable show.

All photography by Matt Bramford

Anyway, I quickly got over my blues as the show started, featuring perhaps the best soundtrack I’ve ever heard at fashion week. It began with that song by Gwen Stefani that samples the Sound of Music, launching the first model out, only to be followed by the likes of Destiny’s Child, Rihanna and the Pussycat Dolls. If I’d had a drink I would have been unable to stop myself from leaping on to the catwalk.

Kinder Aggugini S/S 2013 by Emma Reynolds

The first model appeared in a blue gingham shirt, worn underneath a playful Liberty-print-esque pair of dungarees. It was this twee narrative that would continue for most of the show, and I loved it.

A mix of sexier dresses cut above the knee and floral pinafores followed. Gingham merged with a striking map print, while a one-colour Rococo-inspired print featured on sweaters, loose dresses and an oversized cropped-sleeved overcoat.

Oversized paper-bag waists then made an appearance on skirts and trousers with more and more entertaining prints creating a strong and coherent theme throughout. A cropped-sleeve red blazer with large white buttons, feminine dresses and floral playsuits ensure this S/S 2013 outing will appeal to women with very different styles.

Kinder Aggugini S/S 2013 by Maya Beus

The finale featured a rather eccentric octopus dress – a black velvet and peach sheer mix – which I very much enjoyed but it didn’t seem to fit in anywhere. But, who cares? Certainly not me.

All photography by Matt Bramford

Written by Matt Bramford on Tuesday September 25th, 2012 10:04 am

Categories ,BFC, ,Destiny’s Child, ,Emma Reynolds, ,florals, ,Gingham, ,Gwen Stefani, ,kinder aggugini, ,liberty, ,London Fashion Week, ,Matt Bramford, ,Maya Beus, ,Octopus, ,print, ,Pussycat Dolls, ,Rihanna, ,Rococco, ,S/S 2013, ,Somerset House, ,SS13, ,Womenswear

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