Amelia’s Magazine | Tatty Devine and Rob Ryan collaborate again!

Easter is just around the corner, click and as well as a delightfully lo-oo-ong weekend, it also means plenty of chocolate egg eating and some egg hunting (despite being in my twenties, I still pursue the tradition each year, clues and everything). For those of you who want to find a healthier way of celebrating it, and fancy throwing a gift someone’s way, I have hunted high and low and found the latest offering from Tatty Devine to be the perfect solution. 

The nest necklace and brooches are a result of yet another successful collaboration between kooky jewellers Tatty Devine, and London based artist Rob Ryan. These two heavyweights have collaborated not only on ranges in the past, but also on Amelia’s Magazine Issue 02. Ryan, a papercutting and screen printing artist who regularly lends his creative talents to creating bespoke and commissioned pieces, has made two nest pieces just in time for Easter. Featuring two nutty brown birds, a natural woodcut nest and a pale pink veneer egg reading Our Adventure is About to Begin the two pieces are different as well as being completely wearable (a quality I like in Tatty pieces). 

It is easy to see how the intricate nature of his work is perfect for designing quirky pieces of jewellery; priced at £105 for the brooch and £135 for the necklace, they are only producing 25 of each so get in there quick. Brick Lane based Tatty Devine are celebrating 10 years of trading, and what better way that to revisit such a successful partnership. The shop uses their window display to showcase collaborations, so next time you’re in the East End pay them a visit…while you’re at it, go and visit Ryan’s shop.


 
Happy Hunting!

Categories ,Brick Lane, ,Brooches, ,East End, ,Easter, ,jewellery, ,Necklaces, ,rob ryan, ,Tatty Devine

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week Menswear Day A/W 2011 Presentation Review: SIBLING

Fair+True and Reluxe by Andrea Kearney

The EcoLuxe exhibition was held at the ultra chic One Aldwych Hotel, viagra healing just across the road from Somerset House. Fresh from Esthetica, viagra I wondered if the designers holed up over at One Aldwych would be able to compete with the level of talent I’d witnessed over at Somerset House, but my questions were quickly forgotten as I descended the staircase at the hotel and saw what waited for me.

Inevitably, there were a few brands and designers showcasing work that didn’t really float my boat, but I also saw some beautifully crafted clothes that really excited me. Here are just a few of my favourites.

I was excited to see that Fashion Conscience, my favourite ethical online retailer, had a stand. I quickly got chatting to their PR rep about how to encourage more mainstream use of ethical design principals and how to close the gap between the high end ethical and the affordable everyday ethical. Fashion Conscience, in my humble opinion, are beginning to fill this gap, but there is still some way to go. The Fashion Conscience stall was showcasing the work of two of my favourite labels, ReLuxe and Fair+True:

Reluxe oozes cool. The designs are fresh, colourful, relaxed and crucially AFFORDABLE. They use recycled fabrics which means many garments are completely unique, or in limited supply due to the limitations of the fabric. I have fallen in love with this slightly bonkers neon striped skirt and am just waiting for pay day to purchase it (don’t beat me to it!) Brands like Reluxe and Fair+True (below) make me excited and hopeful that ethical businesses CAN make it in to the middle market mainstream, can be affordable and can have mass appeal. YES.

Knitted Skirt by Reluxe. Photo via Fashion Conscience.

Fair+True are a brand new Fairtrade company that also make lovely, brightly coloured sporty brights that I would love to wear. All pieces are fairly made in the UK or Africa or created from sustainable and organic fabrics. LOVE.

Fair + True by Fritha Strickland

I hadn’t ever heard of Lowie and I’m most disappointed by this because I utterly loved their stuff. The AW 2011 pieces were gorgeous, brightly coloured, hand knitted accessories and clothing. I adored their Turkish socks, ear muffs, cloche hats and cardigans. Their Spring 2011 collection was also beautiful with some really interesting shapes and details.


Turkish socks by Lowie. Illustration by Faye West

I liked the moody colours, tailoring and detailing of HEMYCA‘s clothes. Their focus is on fine tailoring, with an emphasis on the waist, which I always love. Ethically, HEMYCA has an ‘Organic Tailoring’ range and manufactures all their garments in London, promoting local businesses and cutting down on carbon dioxide emissions.

Hemyca Dress. Photo via Not Just A Label.

I was also introduced to Sanyukta Shrestha’s wedding accessories and dresses. It wasn’t until I saw models wearing the dresses online after the event that I truly appreciated their beauty. In fact I had a mouth a-gape, heart a-flutter moment when I saw this floor length, pleated dress with low cut back. It’s made from 100% organic silk and organic fair traded cotton sateen. If I could get married again (to the same man, I hasten to add!) it would be in this dress. Oh my. Head. Over. Heels.

Sanyukta Shrestha Wedding Dress by Fritha Strickland

I expected to be impressed by the show rooms, but I didn’t expect to be blown away. I left both the Esthetica and Eco Luxe exhibits with my brain whirring, my bag stuffed full of promo material, a camera full of more images than I knew what to do with and having talked at a million miles an hour to so many interesting and inspiring people. Eco Luxe has doubled in size since last year in what I assume  is a reflection of the increasing acceptance and awareness of ethical design. I hope that as ethical design and shopping with conscience become more mainstream,  that one day ethical clothing designers wont be sectioned off in their own separate rooms, but showcasing alongside all the other designers; proving that fashion with a conscience is the norm, not the exception. One day indeed.

Fair+True and Reluxe by Andrea Kearney

The EcoLuxe exhibition was held at the ultra chic One Aldwych Hotel, illness just across the road from Somerset House. Fresh from Esthetica, sales I wondered if the designers holed up over at One Aldwych would be able to compete with the level of talent I’d witnessed over at Somerset House, website but my questions were quickly forgotten as I descended the staircase at the hotel and saw what waited for me.

Inevitably, there were a few brands and designers showcasing work that didn’t really float my boat, but I also saw some beautifully crafted clothes that really excited me. Here are just a few of my favourites.

I was excited to see that Fashion Conscience, my favourite ethical online retailer, had a stand. I quickly got chatting to their PR rep about how to encourage more mainstream use of ethical design principals and how to close the gap between the high end ethical and the affordable everyday ethical. Fashion Conscience, in my humble opinion, are beginning to fill this gap, but there is still some way to go. The Fashion Conscience stall was showcasing the work of two of my favourite labels, ReLuxe and Fair+True:

Reluxe oozes cool. The designs are fresh, colourful, relaxed and crucially AFFORDABLE. They use recycled fabrics which means many garments are completely unique, or in limited supply due to the limitations of the fabric. I have fallen in love with this slightly bonkers neon striped skirt and am just waiting for pay day to purchase it (don’t beat me to it!) Brands like Reluxe and Fair+True (below) make me excited and hopeful that ethical businesses CAN make it in to the middle market mainstream, can be affordable and can have mass appeal. YES.

Knitted Skirt by Reluxe. Photo via Fashion Conscience.

Fair+True are a brand new Fairtrade company that also make lovely, brightly coloured sporty brights that I would love to wear. All pieces are fairly made in the UK or Africa or created from sustainable and organic fabrics. LOVE.

Fair + True by Fritha Strickland

I hadn’t ever heard of Lowie and I’m most disappointed by this because I utterly loved their stuff. The AW 2011 pieces were gorgeous, brightly coloured, hand knitted accessories and clothing. I adored their Turkish socks, ear muffs, cloche hats and cardigans. Their Spring 2011 collection was also beautiful with some really interesting shapes and details.


Turkish socks by Lowie. Illustration by Faye West

I liked the moody colours, tailoring and detailing of HEMYCA‘s clothes. Their focus is on fine tailoring, with an emphasis on the waist, which I always love. Ethically, HEMYCA has an ‘Organic Tailoring’ range and manufactures all their garments in London, promoting local businesses and cutting down on carbon dioxide emissions.

Hemyca Dress. Photo via Not Just A Label.

I was also introduced to Sanyukta Shrestha’s wedding accessories and dresses. It wasn’t until I saw models wearing the dresses online after the event that I truly appreciated their beauty. In fact I had a mouth a-gape, heart a-flutter moment when I saw this floor length, pleated dress with low cut back. It’s made from 100% organic silk and organic fair traded cotton sateen. If I could get married again (to the same man, I hasten to add!) it would be in this dress. Oh my. Head. Over. Heels.

Sanyukta Shrestha Wedding Dress by Fritha Strickland

I expected to be impressed by the show rooms, but I didn’t expect to be blown away. I left both the Esthetica and Eco Luxe exhibits with my brain whirring, my bag stuffed full of promo material, a camera full of more images than I knew what to do with and having talked at a million miles an hour to so many interesting and inspiring people. Eco Luxe has doubled in size since last year in what I assume  is a reflection of the increasing acceptance and awareness of ethical design. I hope that as ethical design and shopping with conscience become more mainstream,  that one day ethical clothing designers wont be sectioned off in their own separate rooms, but showcasing alongside all the other designers; proving that fashion with a conscience is the norm, not the exception. One day indeed.

Illustration by Rachel Liddington

After a very early start Frowing at JW Anderson on menswear day, approved it was time to head to the Sibling presentation – one of my most anticipated shows during fashion week. Taking place in the Portico Rooms again, by the time myself, illustrator Gareth and contributor Nick got there the room was already heaving. It was a similar set up to last time – mannequins formed a circle around the room with a film showing on loop in the centre.

It was fab. This season’s collection is absolutely inspired. Whimsically titled ‘Darn The Boozer,’ A/W 2011 takes us on a pub-crawl of the East End, stopping off at my favourite drinkeries. From the Golden Heart to the George & Dragon, the collection is a whistle-stop tour around local boozers, with different pieces for different places. The Golden Heart describes itself as ‘a real British pub’ and that pretty much sums up this collection – the best of British boozer motifs embroidered onto sweaters in Sibling’s staple style.


Illustration by Abi Daker

The Golden Heart gets the Sibling treatment to kick things off, with embroidered hearts in a tattoo motif as well as emblems knitted into sweaters with spider-web elbows. The Red Lion gets a look in on the way, in the form of a crew neck sweater with an enormous embroidered lion design, featuring different textures and tones of red. The Bricklayer’s Arms is represented through an insignia zip jacket with pockets. My favourite boozer – The George & Dragon – is our last stop. A Fair Isle knit features typical geometric patterns, spiced up with Saint George on horseback woven into the mix.

George, the knight, further inspires my favourite piece in the collection – a bright red knitted sweater with added shoulder details and tan leather buckles, and I’m already working out how I’ll be able to buy it when it hits the shops. This quirky detail is also used on grey scarf which looks a bit like a neck brace, in the best possible sense.

Accessories this season include Kiss Panda knitted masks – completely unwearable but another fab artist collaboration following on from last season’s marriage with Tim Noble and Sue Webster. They’re the conception of Pure Evil, and a jumper also features this playful design – far more wearable and definitely one for the wish list.

The film, by Willem Jaspert & Stephen Langmanis, showed chavvy boys having a pint and a fag outside The George & Dragon itself. I’m not sure these ruffians are Sibling’s target audience, but the aesthetic really worked.

Other bits and pieces include lust-worthy ‘love’ and ‘hate’ gloves. Really should start saving…

Look out for illustrator Gareth’s take on this and more coming soon!

All photography by Matt Bramford

Categories ,A/W 2011, ,Darn The Boozer, ,East End, ,embroidery, ,Kiss, ,knitwear, ,Leonard Street, ,London Fashion Week, ,menswear, ,Pandas, ,Portico Rooms, ,Pubs, ,Pure Evil, ,Sibling, ,Somerset House, ,The Bricklayer’s Arms, ,The George & Dragon, ,The Golden Heart, ,The Red Lion

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2011 Menswear Day Catwalk Review: Cassette Playa

A La Disposition A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory
A La Disposition A/W 2011 by Zarina Liew
A La Disposition A/W 2011 by Zarina Liew.

Biggest surprise of London Fashion Week? À La Disposition, search about which I knew nothing prior to their show at Fashion Scout. It’s really nice to go to a show and feel like you’ve discovered something exciting – it’s one of the reasons I enjoy LFW so much, and and especially going to the smaller shows. After all, discovering new talent is something I’ve always loved doing in Amelia’s Magazine.

A La Disposition A/W 2011 by Zoe Georgiou of Soul Water
A La Disposition A/W 2011 by Zoe Georgiou of Soul Water.

An American husband and wife team, Lynda Cohen Kinne and Daniel Kinne of À La Disposition describe themselves as the fusion of form and function and for The Utopian Aviary collection they looked at the social structures, mimicry and mating displays of birds. This translated into an incredibly modern silhouette based on structures of times past: tight capes, over-developed coat tails that looked like wings and gigantic neck ruffles reminiscent of the medieval era. This was a super confident collection which showcased some superb pattern cutting skills.

A La Disposition A/W 2011 by Emma Lucy Watson
A La Disposition A/W 2011 by Emma Lucy Watson.

The Utopian Aviary opened with a stunning faux fur concoction: skirt layered more like the wings of a beetle than a bird, cape bunched around the shoulders in striped tones of greys. Black, deep green, jades and autumnal reds dominated the ensuing outfits, created in luxe fabrics: silk, taffeta and chiffon.

A La Disposition A/W 2011 by Zoe Georgiou of Soul WaterA La Disposition A/W 2011 by Zoe Georgiou of Soul Water
A La Disposition A/W 2011 by Zoe Georgiou of Soul Water.

A digitalised moire print featured on dress and blouse. Red buttons provided a contrasting punch to forest green velvet and waists were high and thighs puffed out, topped with exaggerated wing-collared pinstripe shirts and accessorised with fake wool leggings. Shoulder details called to mind the layered shapes of petals on a cross fronted jacket. A shot of deepest honey yellow was a searing burst of winter sunshine.

A La Disposition A/W 2011 by Zarina LiewA La Disposition A/W 2011 by Zarina Liew
A La Disposition A/W 2011 by Zarina Liew.

Models had teased up-dos that emulated the chaotic structure of birds’ nests, red alienesque contacts and eyes deeply rimmed with black. The overall effect was nigh on futuristic.

A La Disposition A/W 2011 by Sophie Pickup
A La Disposition A/W 2011 by Sophie Pickup.

Gigantic breast ruffles appeared on coats and looped down the chest in marled knitwear, extending outwards and upwards until, peacock like, a model appeared bearing a stunning ruffled contraption which rose like cantilevered architecture from the back of her neck in a delicious deep copper metallic silk. Behind, the ruffles cascaded like an echo down the back of her skirt. What a revelation!

A La Disposition A/W 2011 by Sam ParrA La Disposition A/W 2011 by Sam Parr
A La Disposition A/W 2011 by Sam Parr.

Also of mention was the bulging goodie bags on the front row which contained two bottles of the new À La Disposition perfume {{intangible}}. These are composed of the same base ingredients, but with alternating top notes so that they can either be worn alone or together. Created by boutique perfume maker Carvansons I’ve yet to be convinced of their wonder, but the press release is indeed as *intangible* as it was for the The Utopian Aviary show.

A La Disposition A/W 2011 by Sam Parr
A La Disposition A/W 2011 by Sam Parr.

I always write my first draft about a show before I read the accompanying press release because I don’t want it to influence my initial perceptions – like good artwork I feel that a collection should stand alone without any kind of explanation. Which leads me to my final word for À La Disposition: keep it simple. There’s no need for overwrought descriptions, especially when the quality of showmanship itself does the talking.
A La Disposition A/W 2011 by Zarina Liew
A La Disposition A/W 2011 by Zarina Liew.

Biggest surprise of London Fashion Week? À La Disposition, visit web about which I knew nothing prior to their show at Fashion Scout. It’s really nice to go to a show and feel like you’ve discovered something exciting – it’s one of the reasons I enjoy LFW so much, medicine and especially going to the smaller shows. After all, discovering new talent is something I’ve always loved doing in Amelia’s Magazine.

A La Disposition A/W 2011 by Zoe Georgiou of Soul Water
A La Disposition A/W 2011 by Zoe Georgiou of Soul Water.

A La Disposition A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryA La Disposition A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryA La Disposition A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryA La Disposition A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory
A La Disposition A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

An American husband and wife team, Lynda Cohen Kinne and Daniel Kinne of À La Disposition describe themselves as the fusion of form and function and for The Utopian Aviary collection they looked at the social structures, mimicry and mating displays of birds. This translated into an incredibly modern silhouette based on structures of times past: tight capes, over-developed coat tails that looked like wings and gigantic neck ruffles reminiscent of the medieval era. This was a super confident collection which showcased some superb pattern cutting skills.

A La Disposition A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryA La Disposition A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryA La Disposition A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryA La Disposition A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryA La Disposition A/W 2011 by Emma Lucy Watson
A La Disposition A/W 2011 by Emma Lucy Watson.

The Utopian Aviary opened with a stunning faux fur concoction: skirt layered more like the wings of a beetle than a bird, cape bunched around the shoulders in striped tones of greys. Black, deep green, jades and autumnal reds dominated the ensuing outfits, created in luxe fabrics: silk, taffeta and chiffon.

A La Disposition A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryA La Disposition A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryA La Disposition A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryA La Disposition A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryA La Disposition A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryA La Disposition A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryA La Disposition A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryA La Disposition A/W 2011 by Zoe Georgiou of Soul WaterA La Disposition A/W 2011 by Zoe Georgiou of Soul Water
A La Disposition A/W 2011 by Zoe Georgiou of Soul Water.

A digitalised moire print featured on dress and blouse. Red buttons provided a contrasting punch to forest green velvet and waists were high and thighs puffed out, topped with exaggerated wing-collared pinstripe shirts and accessorised with fake wool leggings. Shoulder details called to mind the layered shapes of petals on a cross fronted jacket. A shot of deepest honey yellow was a searing burst of winter sunshine.

A La Disposition A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryA La Disposition A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryA La Disposition A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryA La Disposition A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryA La Disposition A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryA La Disposition A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryA La Disposition A/W 2011 by Zarina LiewA La Disposition A/W 2011 by Zarina Liew
A La Disposition A/W 2011 by Zarina Liew.

Models had teased up-dos that emulated the chaotic structure of birds’ nests, red alienesque contacts and eyes deeply rimmed with black. The overall effect was nigh on futuristic.

A La Disposition A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryA La Disposition A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryA La Disposition A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryA La Disposition A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryA La Disposition A/W 2011 by Sophie Pickup
A La Disposition A/W 2011 by Sophie Pickup.

Gigantic breast ruffles appeared on coats and looped down the chest in marled knitwear, extending outwards and upwards until, peacock like, a model appeared bearing a stunning ruffled contraption which rose like cantilevered architecture from the back of her neck in a delicious deep copper metallic silk. Behind, the ruffles cascaded like an echo down the back of her skirt. What a revelation!

A La Disposition A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryA La Disposition A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryA La Disposition A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryA La Disposition A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryA La Disposition A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryA La Disposition A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryA La Disposition A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryA La Disposition A/W 2011 by Sam ParrA La Disposition A/W 2011 by Sam Parr
A La Disposition A/W 2011 by Sam Parr.

Also of mention was the bulging goodie bags on the front row which contained two bottles of the new À La Disposition perfume {{intangible}}. These are composed of the same base ingredients, but with alternating top notes so that they can either be worn alone or together. Created by boutique perfume maker Carvansons I’ve yet to be convinced of their wonder, but the press release is indeed as *intangible* as it was for the The Utopian Aviary show.

A La Disposition A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory
A La Disposition A/W 2011 by Sam Parr
A La Disposition A/W 2011 by Sam Parr.

I always write my first draft about a show before I read the accompanying press release because I don’t want it to influence my initial perceptions – like good artwork I feel that a collection should stand alone without any kind of explanation. Which leads me to my final word for À La Disposition: keep it simple. There’s no need for overwrought descriptions, especially when the quality of showmanship itself does the talking.
A La Disposition A/W 2011 by Zarina Liew
A La Disposition A/W 2011 by Zarina Liew.

Biggest surprise of London Fashion Week? À La Disposition, viagra 60mg about which I knew nothing prior to their show at Fashion Scout. It’s really nice to go to a show and feel like you’ve discovered something exciting – it’s one of the reasons I enjoy LFW so much, treatment and especially going to the smaller shows. After all, cialis 40mg discovering new talent is something I’ve always loved doing in Amelia’s Magazine.

A La Disposition A/W 2011 by Zoe Georgiou of Soul Water
A La Disposition A/W 2011 by Zoe Georgiou of Soul Water.

A La Disposition A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryA La Disposition A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryA La Disposition A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryA La Disposition A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory
A La Disposition A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

An American husband and wife team, Lynda Cohen Kinne and Daniel Kinne of À La Disposition describe themselves as the fusion of form and function and for The Utopian Aviary collection they looked at the social structures, mimicry and mating displays of birds. This translated into an incredibly modern silhouette based on structures of times past: tight capes, over-developed coat tails that looked like wings and gigantic neck ruffles reminiscent of the medieval era. This was a super confident collection which showcased some superb pattern cutting skills.

A La Disposition A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryA La Disposition A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryA La Disposition A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryA La Disposition A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryA La Disposition A/W 2011 by Emma Lucy Watson
A La Disposition A/W 2011 by Emma Lucy Watson.

The Utopian Aviary opened with a stunning faux fur concoction: skirt layered more like the wings of a beetle than a bird, cape bunched around the shoulders in striped tones of greys. Black, deep green, jades and autumnal reds dominated the ensuing outfits, created in luxe fabrics: silk, taffeta and chiffon.

A La Disposition A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryA La Disposition A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryA La Disposition A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryA La Disposition A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryA La Disposition A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryA La Disposition A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryA La Disposition A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryA La Disposition A/W 2011 by Zoe Georgiou of Soul WaterA La Disposition A/W 2011 by Zoe Georgiou of Soul Water
A La Disposition A/W 2011 by Zoe Georgiou of Soul Water.

A digitalised moire print featured on dress and blouse. Red buttons provided a contrasting punch to forest green velvet and waists were high and thighs puffed out, topped with exaggerated wing-collared pinstripe shirts and accessorised with fake wool leggings. Shoulder details called to mind the layered shapes of petals on a cross fronted jacket. A shot of deepest honey yellow was a searing burst of winter sunshine.

A La Disposition A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryA La Disposition A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryA La Disposition A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryA La Disposition A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryA La Disposition A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryA La Disposition A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryA La Disposition A/W 2011 by Zarina LiewA La Disposition A/W 2011 by Zarina Liew
A La Disposition A/W 2011 by Zarina Liew.

Models had teased up-dos that emulated the chaotic structure of birds’ nests, red alienesque contacts and eyes deeply rimmed with black. The overall effect was nigh on futuristic.

A La Disposition A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryA La Disposition A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryA La Disposition A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryA La Disposition A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryA La Disposition A/W 2011 by Sophie Pickup
A La Disposition A/W 2011 by Sophie Pickup.

Gigantic breast ruffles appeared on coats and looped down the chest in marled knitwear, extending outwards and upwards until, peacock like, a model appeared bearing a stunning ruffled contraption which rose like cantilevered architecture from the back of her neck in a delicious deep copper metallic silk. Behind, the ruffles cascaded like an echo down the back of her skirt. What a revelation!

A La Disposition A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryA La Disposition A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryA La Disposition A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryA La Disposition A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryA La Disposition A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryA La Disposition A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryA La Disposition A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryA La Disposition A/W 2011 by Sam ParrA La Disposition A/W 2011 by Sam Parr
A La Disposition A/W 2011 by Sam Parr.

Also of mention was the bulging goodie bags on the front row which contained two bottles of the new À La Disposition perfume {{intangible}}. These are composed of the same base ingredients, but with alternating top notes so that they can either be worn alone or together. Created by boutique perfume maker Carvansons I’ve yet to be convinced of their wonder, but the press release is indeed as *intangible* as it was for the The Utopian Aviary show.

A La Disposition A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory
A La Disposition A/W 2011 by Sam Parr
A La Disposition A/W 2011 by Sam Parr.

I always write my first draft about a show before I read the accompanying press release because I don’t want it to influence my initial perceptions – like good artwork I feel that a collection should stand alone without any kind of explanation. Which leads me to my final word for À La Disposition: keep it simple. There’s no need for overwrought descriptions, especially when the quality of showmanship itself does the talking.

You can see more work by Zarina Liew in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration.

Illustration by Gabriel Ayala

I’ve always approached Cassette Playa with caution. She’s responsible for making Shoreditch look like a live Pump up The Jam video and has a lot to answer for when it comes to one of my good friends’ questionable fashion choices.


All photography by Matt Bramford

And then what happened? Well, thumb I can’t tell you, more about but I at least didn’t here anything for a while; I’m sure Carrie Mundane didn’t disappear, you probably had to look a bit harder than I was (i.e, not at all). Then, when the schedules were released at the beginning of the year, there was Cassette Playa on Menswear Day. I have to admit I got a little excited – last season’s KTZ show was one of the highlights and really mixed up Menswear Day in a sea of classic tailoring and less-than-experimental clobber for blokes, and I expected Cassette Playa would do the same.


Illustration by Krister Selin

Unsurprisingly the show was packed with all sorts of fashion-forward dressers, including one flamboyant gent sporting a Katie Eary PVC rabbit mask. At regular intervals he removed it to deeply inhale because he clearly couldn’t breathe behind it. Well, I ask you.

As the glamorous polythene sheet was removed from the catwalk and the lights began to dim, a rather flustered PR boy shoved me along the front row shouting ‘We’ve got to seat Charlie! We’ve GOT TO SEAT CHARLIE!’ As I pondered the different Charlies that could warrant such a reaction, Charlie Porter from Fantastic Man took a seat at the side of me and I wondered if that was all really necessary.


Illustration by Gemma Milly

I don’t know what’s changed since nu-rave had its day, but I bloody loved this show. A marriage of rude boys, rockers and thugs, this comeback collection had a bit of everything. This definitely wasn’t a collection for the sartorial dresser; not a single (or doubled-breasted) blazer in sight.

Leather and denim jackets were jazzed up with all sorts of various emblems representing various subcultures: rocker flames and hip-hop graffiti, for example. Cable-knit hooded sweaters in grey (worn on the most tattooed man I’ve ever seen, save on the pages of Pick Me Up Magazine) were embellished with embroidered graphic logos and teamed with baby pink shorts, and one of my favourite pieces was an oversized grey jersey t-shirt with an enormous leather motif in pink.

Padded jackets famed on East End market stalls were emblazoned with the Cassette Playa logo came in varied, vibrant colours and were worn with oversized rucksacks and trousers with acid graphic prints that bordered on hallucinogenic.


Illustration by Antonia Parker

A bit of womenswear showed up to – more references to music subcultures on body-conscious short dresses with sleeves. These were modelled by a curvaceous chick who swaggered up and down to the sounds of metal music, and it was bloody marvellous to see a model with sex appeal rather than the dead-behind-the-eyes waif I’d grown accustomed to this season.


Illustration by Gareth A Hopkins

The lights dimmed, and the second half of the show brought out models sprayed head-to-toe in gold to celebrate the 50th anniversary of Ken (of Barbie fame) – the ‘ultimate boyfriend’. CP X Ken is a capsule collection which features mostly black garments with Cassette Playa’s unique mix of prints and embellishments – silk rose-printed shirts, baseball jackets with patches, that sort of thing. I have to admit, when a model is gold and has enormous breasts (I’m talking about a menswear show, here) the clothes can go unnoticed.

So, consider me now a fan of Cassette Playa. Soz, Carrie, that I ever doubted you. Welcome back!

See more of Gareth A Hopkins, Gemma Milly, Antonia Parker and Krister Selin’s illustrations in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration!

Categories ,A/W 2011, ,Antonia Parker, ,AW11, ,Barbie, ,BFC, ,Carrie Mundane, ,Cassette Playa, ,catwalk, ,East End, ,Fantastic Man, ,Gabriel Alaya, ,Gareth A Hopkins, ,Gemma Milly, ,Gold, ,Ken, ,Krister Selin, ,London Fashion Week, ,menswear, ,metal, ,Nu-rave, ,Pick Me Up Magazine, ,Pump Up The Jam, ,review, ,shoreditch

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Amelia’s Magazine | Happy Birthday Dr. Martens

Happy Birthday to you
Happy Birthday to you
Happy Biiiiiirthday Dr. Martens
Happy Birthday to you!

Today iconic footwear brand Dr. Martens celebrates its 50th birthday! From humble beginnings in Germany to global fashion brand, rx Dr. Martens’ history is an illustrious one.

Originally developed as a replacement for World War II footwear which was deemed uncomfortable and restrictive, this the Dr. Martens boot was developed by its loving creator, cialis 40mg Klaus Märtens, in to what we know and love today. A pioneer of recycled materials, long before today’s eco-friendly brands, Märtens used discarded rubber from Luftwaffe airfields to produce the boots.

Like David Hasselhoff, Dr. Martens boots were originally a hit with German housewives, and it was only in 1960 when the footwear brand was launched internationally that they became a fashion statement.

There’s no other such iconic footwear that so instantly represents so many subcultures; skinheads, punks, emos and grungers all claim them as their emblem, and now the East End gliterrati are pumping them back into fashion – albeit in this season’s colours.

Most recently the brand ventured into designer collaborations, with Raf Simons notoriously treading dangerously by changing the Dr. Marten’s staple yellow stitching to red. The result, however, teamed with patent leather, was a real winner.

To celebrate their birthday Dr. Marten’s flagship store in Covent Garden is selling it’s most famous 1460 boot (so called because it was first produced 50 years ago, on 1st of April 1960) for only £14.60. Yeah, that’s right. So head down there today and buy yourself a piece of history.

Categories ,1460, ,Agyness Deyn, ,Boots, ,Dr. Martens, ,East End, ,Grungers, ,Happy Birthday, ,Punks, ,Raf Simons, ,shoes, ,Skinheads

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Amelia’s Magazine | A review of the Tarradiddle Exhibition


Illustration by Gemma Milly of Zara Gorman’s Millinery.

Over the last few years the RCA’s MA Fashion course has quietly been producing a series of designers who have reinvented their particular disciplines – from menswear designers James Long and Katie Eary to womenswear’s Michael van der Ham, page Erdem and Holly Fulton (whose influence could already be seen on the Bournemouth catwalk). All of whom (except Erdem ) subsequently showed at London Fashion Week via Lulu Kennedy’s Fashion East.

The RCA MA course actually consists of several different courses from Millinery (a course of one) in which Zara Gorman showed her exquisitely shaped hats…

Illustration by Katie Harvey

to Womenswear and Menswear knit, troche accessories, nurse shoes and of course Womenswear and Menswear. The press release listed the words of inspiration that described the various elements of design the graduates of 2010 presented. It was slightly disconcerting to see the world ‘Chav’ being used as an inspiration, a word created by the press to demean those that wore Burberry Check head to toe (Pre Christopher Bailey Hello Danielle Westbrook) it’s connotations appear to be similar to Noveau Rich – those with money and no taste.

A look celebrated and parodied by Ab Fab’s Eddie and her love for trends and ‘hot’ designers, It’s impossible to not know she’s wearing a ‘designer’. Astrid Andersen plays with fashion’s ability to celebrate and pastiche it’s own brand at the same time on the same item (think LV’s monogrammed bags or Moschino Jeans). Her menswear is certainly not forgettable with its construction of the base elements of sportswear. Nor was Courtney McWilliams’s take on casual wear in which the t-shirts and jackets proudly beared that particularly English symbol: the pit-bull.

Illustration by Joseph Keirs

This was an incredible exhibition of the craft, research and invention that is currently occurring within the Fashion Department of the RCA.

Menswear designer Trine Jensen presented breathtaking sweaters embroided with charms (as in bracelet) to hoops.

Victoria Stone’s cut up shirts… Illustration By Marnie Hollande

Sam McCoach’s tubular womenswear knit Illustration by Lesley Barnes

Poppy Cartwright’s white PVC collection produced fantastic shapes, her combination of high shine against the matt fabric embellished through the subtle addition of white embroidery.

All illustrations by Naomi Law

Frances Convey’s colour and shapes

Illustration by Katie Harvey

Yuri Yuferev cages presented dramatic feminine shapes harden through the materials positioning around the body.

Illustration by Lesley Barnes

The monochrome creped collection by Cecile Bahnsen came complete with 1990′s inspired sportswear jackets. Elements of grunge reappeared through the designers choice of length – often the dresses hang tightly around the ankle. Flashes of Amber from clueless appear with the presentation of the Fez hat. It’s that time already. The revival of the 1990′s.

Illustration by Marnie Hollande

Bahnsen’s graphic monochrome was interspersed with cut out pieces was softened through the pastel pink colouring.

This is but a small selection from the class of 2010, the more this reviewer revisits the look book accompanying the show the more previously unnoticed details emerge from these young designers collections.

Illustration by Gemma Milly of Zara Gorman’s Millinery.

Over the last few years the RCA’s MA Fashion course has quietly been producing a series of designers who have reinvented their particular disciplines – from menswear designers James Long and Katie Eary to womenswear’s Michael van der Ham, this Erdem and Holly Fulton (whose influence could already be seen on the Bournemouth catwalk). All of whom (except Erdem ) subsequently showed at London Fashion Week via Lulu Kennedy’s Fashion East.

The RCA MA course actually consists of several different courses from Millinery (a course of one) in which Zara Gorman showed her exquisitely shaped hats constructed from a combination of leather, purchase wood and plastic.

Illustration by Katey Harvey

to knitwear, accessories, shoes and of course Womenswear and Menswear. The press release listed the words of inspiration that described the various elements of design the graduates of 2010 presented. It was slightly disconcerting to see the world ‘Chav’ being used as an inspiration, a word created by the press to demean those that wore Burberry Check head to toe (Pre Christopher Bailey Hello Danielle Westbrook) it’s connotations appear to be similar to Noveau Rich – those with money and no taste.

A look celebrated and parodied by Ab Fab’s Eddie and her love for trends and ‘hot’ designers, It’s impossible to not know she’s wearing a ‘designer’. Astrid Andersen plays with fashion’s ability to celebrate and pastiche it’s own brand at the same time on the same item (think LV’s monogrammed bags or Moschino Jeans). Her menswear is certainly not forgettable with its construction of the base elements of sportswear. Nor was Courtney McWilliams’s take on casual wear in which the t-shirts and jackets proudly beared that particularly English symbol: the pit-bull.

Illustration by Joseph Keirs

This was an incredible exhibition of the craft, research and invention that is currently occurring within the Fashion Department of the RCA.

Menswear designer Trine Jensen presented breathtaking sweaters embroided with charms (as in bracelet) to hoops.

Victoria Stone’s cut up chiffon shirts in conjunction with her oversized suits presented a more masculine take on womenswear, a look for those inspired by Woody Allen’s Annie Hall Illustration By Marnie Hollande

Sam McCoach’s tubular womenswear knit sashed down the catwalk. Illustration by Lesley Barnes

The ankle grazing dresses set off by the rounded shapes of the graphic coats. The collection was muted accessoried with tubular jewellery and flat shoes.

Poppy Cartwright’s white PVC collection produced fantastic shapes, her combination of high shine against the matt fabric embellished through the subtle addition of white embroidery.

All illustrations by Naomi Law

Frances Convey’s colour and shapes

Illustration by Katie Harvey

Yuri Yuferev cages presented dramatic feminine shapes harden through the materials positioning around the body.

Illustration by Lesley Barnes

The monochrome creped collection by Cecile Bahnsen came complete with 1990′s inspired sportswear jackets. Elements of grunge reappeared through the designers choice of length – often the dresses hang tightly around the ankle. Flashes of Amber from clueless appear with the presentation of the Fez hat. It’s that time already. The revival of the 1990′s.

Illustration by Marnie Hollande

Bahnsen’s graphic monochrome was interspersed with cut out pieces was softened through the pastel pink colouring.

This is but a small selection from the class of 2010, an almost impossible decision to make, as the more this reviewer revisited the show’s look book, previously unnoticed details consistently emerge from these young designers collections.

Illustration by Gemma Milly of Zara Gorman’s Millinery.

Over the last few years the RCA’s MA Fashion course has quietly been producing a series of designers who have reinvented their particular disciplines – from menswear designers James Long and Katie Eary to womenswear’s Michael van der Ham, page Erdem and Holly Fulton (whose influence could already be seen on the Bournemouth catwalk). All of whom (except Erdem ) subsequently showed at London Fashion Week via Lulu Kennedy’s Fashion East.

The RCA MA course actually consists of several different courses from Millinery (a course of one) in which Zara Gorman showed her exquisitely shaped hats constructed from a combination of leather, approved wood and plastic.

Illustration by Katey Harvey

to knitwear, accessories, shoes and of course Womenswear and Menswear. The press release listed the words of inspiration that described the various elements of design the graduates of 2010 presented. It was slightly disconcerting to see the world ‘Chav’ being used as an inspiration, a word created by the press to demean those that wore Burberry Check head to toe (Pre Christopher Bailey Hello Danielle Westbrook) it’s connotations appear to be similar to Noveau Rich – those with money and no taste.

A look celebrated and parodied by Ab Fab’s Eddie and her love for trends and ‘hot’ designers, It’s impossible to not know she’s wearing a ‘designer’. Astrid Andersen plays with fashion’s ability to celebrate and pastiche it’s own brand at the same time on the same item (think LV’s monogrammed bags or Moschino Jeans). Her menswear is certainly not forgettable with its construction of the base elements of sportswear. Nor was Courtney McWilliams’s take on casual wear in which the t-shirts and jackets proudly beared that particularly English symbol: the pit-bull.

Illustration by Joseph Keirs

This was an incredible exhibition of the craft, research and invention that is currently occurring within the Fashion Department of the RCA.

Menswear designer Trine Jensen presented breathtaking sweaters embroided with charms (as in bracelet) to hoops.

Victoria Stone’s cut up chiffon shirts in conjunction with her oversized suits presented a more masculine take on womenswear, a look for those inspired by Woody Allen’s Annie Hall Illustration By Marnie Hollande

Sam McCoach’s tubular womenswear knit sashed down the catwalk. Illustration by Lesley Barnes

The ankle grazing dresses set off by the rounded shapes of the graphic coats. The collection was muted accessoried with tubular jewellery and flat shoes.

Poppy Cartwright’s white PVC collection produced fantastic shapes, her combination of high shine against the matt fabric embellished through the subtle addition of white embroidery.

All illustrations by Naomi Law

Frances Convey’s colour and shapes were a moment of joy, continuing the rounded shoulder shape of the jacket currently popular.

Illustration by Katie Harvey

The monochrome creped collection by Cecile Bahnsen came complete with 1990′s inspired sportswear jackets. Elements of grunge reappeared through the designers choice of length – often the dresses hang tightly around the ankle. Flashes of Amber from clueless appear with the presentation of the Fez hat. It’s that time already. The revival of the 1990′s.

Illustration by Marnie Hollande

Bahnsen’s graphic monochrome was interspersed with cut out pieces was softened through the pastel pink colouring.

Yuri Yufere presented dramatic feminine shapes harden through the materials cage like positioning around the body, the collection also included softer pieces of block patterned dresses complete with see through jacket.

Illustration by Lesley Barnes

This is but a small selection from the class of 2010, an almost impossible decision to make, as the more this reviewer revisited the show’s look book, previously unnoticed details consistently emerge from these young designers collections.

Illustration by Gemma Milly of Zara Gorman’s Millinery.

Over the last few years the RCA’s MA Fashion course has quietly been producing a series of designers who have reinvented their particular disciplines – from menswear designers James Long and Katie Eary to womenswear’s Michael van der Ham, clinic Erdem and Holly Fulton (whose influence could already be seen on the Bournemouth catwalk). All of whom (except Erdem ) subsequently showed at London Fashion Week via Lulu Kennedy’s Fashion East.

The RCA MA course actually consists of several different courses from Millinery (a course of one) in which Zara Gorman showed her exquisitely shaped hats constructed from a combination of leather, wood and plastic.

Illustration by Katey Harvey

to knitwear, accessories, shoes and of course Womenswear and Menswear. The press release listed the words of inspiration that described the various elements of design the graduates of 2010 presented. It was slightly disconcerting to see the world ‘Chav’ being used as an inspiration, a word created by the press to demean those that wore Burberry Check head to toe (Pre Christopher Bailey Hello Danielle Westbrook) it’s connotations appear to be similar to Noveau Rich – those with money and no taste.

A look celebrated and parodied by Ab Fab’s Eddie and her love for trends and ‘hot’ designers, It’s impossible to not know she’s wearing a ‘designer’. Astrid Andersen plays with fashion’s ability to celebrate and pastiche it’s own brand at the same time on the same item (think LV’s monogrammed bags or Moschino Jeans). Her menswear is certainly not forgettable with its construction of the base elements of sportswear. Nor was Courtney McWilliams’s take on casual wear in which the t-shirts and jackets proudly beared that particularly English symbol: the pit-bull.

Illustration by Joseph Keirs

This was an incredible exhibition of the craft, research and invention that is currently occurring within the Fashion Department of the RCA.

Menswear designer Trine Jensen presented breathtaking sweaters embroided with charms (as in bracelet) to hoops.

Victoria Stone’s cut up chiffon shirts in conjunction with her oversized suits presented a more masculine take on womenswear, a look for those inspired by Woody Allen’s Annie Hall Illustration By Marnie Hollande

Sam McCoach’s tubular womenswear knit sashed down the catwalk. Illustration by Lesley Barnes

The ankle grazing dresses set off by the rounded shapes of the graphic coats. The collection was muted accessoried with tubular jewellery and flat shoes.

Poppy Cartwright’s white PVC collection produced fantastic shapes, her combination of high shine against the matt fabric embellished through the subtle addition of white embroidery.

All illustrations by Naomi Law

Frances Convey’s colour and shapes were a moment of joy, continuing the rounded shoulder shape of the jacket currently popular.

Illustration by Katie Harvey

The monochrome creped collection by Cecile Bahnsen came complete with 1990′s inspired sportswear jackets. Elements of grunge reappeared through the designers choice of length – often the dresses hang tightly around the ankle. Flashes of Amber from clueless appear with the presentation of the Fez hat. It’s that time already. The revival of the 1990′s.

Illustration by Marnie Hollande

Bahnsen’s graphic monochrome was interspersed with cut out pieces was softened through the pastel pink colouring.

Yuri Yufere presented dramatic feminine shapes harden through the materials cage like positioning around the body, the collection also included softer pieces of block patterned dresses complete with see through jacket.

Illustration by Lesley Barnes

This is but a small selection from the class of 2010, an almost impossible decision to make, as the more this reviewer revisited the show’s look book, previously unnoticed details consistently emerge from these young designers collections.
Lauren-Mortimer-Kids-With-Guns
Kids With Guns by Lauren Mortimer.

Last week saw the opening of Tarradiddle, viagra order an exhibition showcasing the combined talents of nine artists of the recently founded all-female collective ‘Martha’, each exploring an experimental mode of story-telling through their work. The private view took place on 7th June 2010 opposite the Hackney City Farm in London’s East End, and saw the pop-up gallery space full to bursting with people over two floors who came for an eclectic mix of art (and the amazing hand made biscuits!). There was a real collective feel to the show as the works themselves sat in harmony alongside one another, a variety of mediums from paintings, illustration, through video and sculpture.

Sorcha-O'brien-open-closed
Open Closed by Sorcha O’brien.

I got a real sense of a dark, almost menacing undercurrent throughout this exhibition with a subtext to each piece that I’m keen to discover. What I found infectious was the way this tone is transformed into an uplifting experience right through the artwork on show.

Lauren-Mortimer-Swing-Cannon
Swing Cannon by Lauren Mortimer.

Upstairs had work ranging from the beautifully playful, yet disturbing illustrations of Lauren Mortimer depicting children in typical childhood scenarios with a sinister twist, her subject’s childhood naivety contrasting brilliantly with the haunting, ethereal subjects of Linda Hemmersbach’s paintings. Zosienka Gibb’s work continued in a similar character driven vain with a series of portraits depicting characters from ‘The Master and the Margarita’, the novel by Mikhail Bulgakov, her images smattered with traces of symbolism and influenced by an African, British and Eastern European childhood.

Linda-Hemmersbach
Art by Linda Hemmersbach.
Zosia-Gibbs
Work from Zosia Gibbs.

I found Marina Rees’ work captivating, adding variety and depth to the show through a combination of sculpture and images made using a host of unusual natural materials, that examine the human relationship with animals.

Marina-Rees-polar-mask
Polar Mask by Marina Rees.

The lower level was dedicated entirely to moving image, and was split between the work of Jade Mortimer and Sarah Blaszczok. Jade’s work dominated the centre of the room with set pieces accompanying a sumptuously shot film depicting two character’s mysteriously ominous encounter, based around some unique pistol shaped decanters marketed in the 1960’s by Avon. Sarah’s film was similarly intriguing with it’s wordless narrative showing events unfold as the characters carry out mundane and repeated acts, the result was in equal parts both sinister and ridiculous.

Jade-Mortimer-New-World
Jade-Mortimer-New-World-still
New World by Jade Mortimer.

The show’s biggest appeal lay in the sense of an unspoken story being told throughout the exhibition, and an incentive to pay close attention to all the work that was on show. My own desire to explore what I saw here stemmed not only from a visceral reaction to the art itself, but to make my own sense of the ambiguity within each piece. It was an exhibition cohesive in themes and ideas, and was undoubtedly a rewarding overall show. The word Tarradiddle means a concocted story or fib, and it’s definitely one I whole heartedly recommend trying to debunk.

Tarradiddle-exhibition

Categories ,Arts Collective, ,East End, ,exhibition, ,graduate, ,Hackney City Farm, ,Jade Mortimer, ,Lauren Mortimer, ,Linda Hemmersbach, ,Marina Rees, ,Martha, ,Mikhail Bulgakov, ,Sarah Blaszczok, ,Tarradiddle, ,Zosia Gibbs, ,Zosienka Gibbs

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