Amelia’s Magazine | Mimi Tran AW15: London Fashion Week Catwalk Review

Mimi Tran AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 54
San Francisco based fashion designer Mimi Tran launched her brand just a few years ago after a former career in Silicon Valley, and chose the Fashion Scout catwalk for the first time this season to showcase a collection which oozed red carpet glamour: think sheer column dresses with wasp waists covered in extravagant embellishments in a palette of black, white, gold, red and royal blue. The Vietnamese born designer shares a curious resemblance (and name) with a very successful US based poker player who has made over a million dollars to date… are they in fact one and the same? Did she use her poker money to reinvent herself and realise a childhood dream of being a fashion designer? Or maybe the similarity is merely a coincidence. I would love to know…

Mimi Tran AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 11
Mimi Tran AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 32
Mimi Tran AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 14
Mimi Tran AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 41
Mimi Tran AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 28
All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Mimi Tran AW 15/16 from FASHION SCOUT on Vimeo.

Categories ,A/W 2015, ,AW15, ,Catwalk review, ,Fashion Scout, ,london, ,London Fashion Week, ,Mimi Tran, ,paris, ,Poker Player, ,review, ,San Francisco, ,Show report, ,Vietnamese

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Amelia’s Magazine | Phannatiq: London Fashion Week S/S 2015 Presentation Review

Phannatiq SS 2015 -photo by Amelia gregory

Phannatiq showcased their new street wear collection with a tribe of dancing girls and Parkour boys on the pavement outside the ME Hotel London. The brand is the brainchild of designer Anna Skodbo, who was brought up in sustainable living communities, thus inspiring her desire to make ethical clothing. Phannatiq features signature fractured prints in urban greys splashed across silky organic bamboo fabrics.

Phannatiq SS 2015 -photo by Amelia gregory
Photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,Anna Skodbo, ,ethical, ,Felicities PR, ,London Fashion Week, ,ME Hotel London, ,Parkour, ,Phannatiq, ,Presentation, ,sustainable

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Presentation Review: Tata Naka

Taka Nata S/S 2012 by Alison Day
Taka Nata S/S 2012 by Alison Day.

Turning up to the Tata Naka presentation I had very little idea of what to expect but I had been most intrigued by their invitation, a dance card with mini pencil attached as if to list dances. I have always loved Tata Naka; their combination of colourful painted print designs and loose fitting but cleverly cut shapes is right up my street.

Tata Naka SS 2012 LFW review -photo by Amelia Gregory
Tata Naka SS 2012 LFW review -photo by Amelia Gregory
Tata Naka S/S 2012 by Yelena Bryksenkova
Tata Naka S/S 2012 by Yelena Bryksenkova.

The presentation was held in the Portico Rooms and as I walked in I felt as though I’d chanced upon a private studio session. Huge lights, photographer, stylist. It took me right back to the days when I spent a lot of time loitering around on fashion shoots for magazines such as The Face and I-D. And, it turns out that this was the entire intention. By combining their time in Somerset House with the creation of look book images, Tata Naka had very cleverly made the most of their time and money as well as opening up the creative process for all to see. Absolutely genius.

Tata Naka SS 2012 LFW review -photo by Amelia Gregory
Tata Naka SS 2012 LFW review -photo by Amelia Gregory
Tata Naka S/S 2012 by Yelena Bryksenkova
Tata Naka S/S 2012 by Yelena Bryksenkova.

The shoot had been going for some hours when I arrived, and the team were onto the last look of the day – seven girls clad in fabulously colourful drop waist, oversized and kaftan shaped tropical dresses. For S/S 2012 Tata Naka were inspired by 1950s east coast chic, combined with flowery resort glamour… and these last garments screamed Aloha.

Taka Naka S/S 2012 by Clare Twomey
Taka Naka S/S 2012 by Clare Twomey.

The models stood in formation on chairs against a black background with rose petals scattered across the floor, in an approximation of a famous Pina Bausch dance sequence. The much loved choreographer’s work had inspired the whole shoot, hence the dance card invitations.

Tata Naka Fashion Illustration By Vicky Newman
Tata Naka S/S 2012 by Vicky Newman.

Attendees were served fresh lemonade in Tata Naka themed bottles decorated with carnations as we circulated around the shoot. We were able to take our own photos and see the others on a computer screen as the team scrutinised the latest official shots.

Tata Naka SS 2012 LFW review -photo by Amelia Gregory
Tata Naka S/S 2012. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Twin sisters Tamara and Natasha Surguladze graduated from Central Saint Martins in 2000, and their label, Tata Naka, celebrated it’s tenth anniversary recently. The brand, which encompasses diffusion lines Stolen Memories and Tata Naka Shrunk for children, is celebrated worldwide yet curiously they have no stockists in the UK. It seems utterly bizarre to me that these talented designers are not more widely feted in the country where they trained and have chosen to make their home. Let’s hope that changes soon.

Categories ,Alison Day, ,Aloha, ,Central Saint Martins, ,Choreographer, ,Clare Twomey, ,dance, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,Look Book, ,Pina Bausch, ,Portico Rooms, ,Presentation, ,S/S 2012, ,Shoot, ,Somerset House, ,Stolen Memories, ,Tamara and Natasha Surguladze, ,Tata Naka, ,Tata Naka Shrunk, ,Twins, ,Vicky Newman, ,Yelena Bryksenkova

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Amelia’s Magazine | Miriam Lehle of Prose Studio: New S/S 2012 Season Presentation Preview and Interview

Prose SS 2012 by Marta Spendowska
Prose SS 2012 by Marta Spendowska.

I was very surprised and pleased to encounter German designer Miriam Lehle of Prose Studio at the stands during London Fashion Week in September. You may remember that I was most entranced by her rose covered A/W 2011 collection (read my interview here) but I was equally stunned by her skeleton influenced collection for S/S 2012.

Prose S/S 2012 Skeleton Lace Top by Farzeen Jabbar
Prose S/S 2012 Skeleton Lace Top by Farzeen Jabbar.

It was lovely to see you at LFW – what was behind your choice to present the new collection in the UK and was it a success?
First of all: I love London. It feels like a second home. But it’s also the home of innovative, internationally renowned young labels. Nowhere else is given so much support to young designers. We had great feedback, met a lot of interesting people and got lots of good press. We will be definitely back next season. It won’t work out without consistency. 

Prose SS 2012 loose_leather_jacket_front
Prose SS 2012 print_dress_print_catsuit_2
Prose SS 2012 skeleton_dress_tight_strapless_front
Prose SS 2012 skeleton_lace_cape_loose_blouse
I love your use of different models in the look book – what inspired this choice and where did you find the models?
I wanted the new collection to be presented by people that have their own special something and are all beautiful because of their individuality. The cast of models is a potpourri: friends, neighbours and additionally we did a street casting. 

Prose S/S 2012 by SarahJayneDraws aka Sarah Jayne Morris
Prose S/S 2012 by SarahJayneDraws aka Sarah Jayne Morris.

The lace pattern has the effect of looking almost like bones and the whole collection has a tribal feel – was this intentional and are you happy with this interpretation?
Many pieces have names such as Skeleton Dress or X-ray shirt. The idea has been to adapt the lace to the body so that the natural shape and construction of the body is emphazised. 

Prose SS 2012 skeleton_lace_top_front
Prose SS 2012 skeleton_lace_top_tight_-baggy_pants_front
Prose SS 2012 skeleton_shirt_dress_front
What inspired the colour palette, which is very neutral apart from a coral pink?
I wanted to focus on the way of using the lace and the combination of heavy and light materials, playing with transparency. I was not interested in using colour this season. 

Prose SS 12 by Farzeen Jabbar
Prose S/S 2012 Skeleton Lace Top by Farzeen Jabbar.

Who do you hope will wear Prose S/S 2012?
The collection movie is the answer to that question. I’m not designing for a type. People can mix and match and adjust the clothes to their individual needs and sytle. 

YouTube Preview Image
YouTube Preview Image

Where can we buy this in the UK?
The collection will be avaialble in New York, Paris and Italy. And online at Miosato.

Prose SS12 by Estelle Morris
Prose S/S 2012 by Estelle Morris.

Will we see you next season, and do you have anything special planned that you can share with us?
Definitely a beautiful new collection and hopefully presented on the catwalk! We are busy on working out the plans for next season. 

Prose SS 2012 x-ray_dress_front
Prose SS 2012 x-ray_top_print_trousers

Categories ,Estelle Morris, ,Farzeen Jabbar, ,German, ,London Fashion Week, ,Marta Spendowska, ,Miriam Lehle, ,Prose Studio, ,S/S 2012, ,Sarah Jayne Morris, ,SarahJayneDraws, ,Skeleton Dress, ,X-ray

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Amelia’s Magazine | Post-London Fashion Week Interview: Minna

Masters of Reality return with their latest mind altered offering to master their, treat cialis 40mg well, reality.

Masters of Reality’s sixth and latest record Pine/Cross Dover is a welcome return of the classic American desert kings who have many rock and roll fingers in many Palm Desert pies. Although released in 2009, the record is making waves over in the UK now. Presented as two halves, the question is Pine/Cross Dover, their first record in five years, any good?

As a pretty big Queens of the Stone Age fan, I was keen to dip my toe into the pool of rock and branch away from my Tension Head (a track which has incidentally been on my top five records for the last decade), let my ears broaden their taste and listen to fellow desert rockers Masters of Reality, which although I was quite familiar with them I hadn’t fully appreciated. Main member and founder Chris Goss has produced many QOTSA records, and so it’s a clear lineage many make associating the two bands together. To my bountiful joy I was pleased with what I heard in the shape of Pine/Cross Dover, kicking off with King Richard TLH, epitomizing from the outset the classic chugga chugga desert rock sound in a nutshell. This song makes me want to get up to get down, swing my limbs around the room and air drum to the max. Which, after doing so left me injured, but on a futuristic trip through nostalgia at the cusp of the desert rocking it’s best.

Aside from the belting opener, stand out tracks include the blissful Always, pounding with its repetitive drum beats and guitar riffs commonly associated to bands in the Palm Desert scene. The instrumental Johnny’s Dream, broadens the sound and style of Masters of Reality to something more then what many have said to be within the realms of stoner rock. Johnny’s Dream is pure end credit music and an awakening to the bands’ previous explorations. Further tracks to download include Absinthe Jim and Me, and the juggernaut Up In It, with Dave Catching playing guest guitar on the former – a fellow member of the desert rock scene and collaborator to many Josh Homme projects, including touring with Eagles of Death Metal last year. Masters of Reality, who add a dash of dark riff house blues to complete their newest record, are for anyone who has overplayed their Queens of the Stone Age records (which does happen) and are after a darker and deeper foray into the light of desert rock at it’s best. Due to tour the UK supporting The Cult in early 2011, if you’re into psychedelic, desert rock and dirty riffs, this is a band you don’t want to miss.

Masters of reality Pine

Masters of Reality return with their latest mind altered offering to master their, price well, dosage reality. Their sixth and latest record Pine/Cross Dover is a welcome return of the classic American desert kings who have many rock and roll fingers in many Palm Desert pies. Although released in 2009, buy the record is making waves over in the UK now. Presented as two halves, the question is Pine/Cross Dover, their first record in five years, any good?

As a pretty big Queens of the Stone Age fan, I was keen to dip my toe into the pool of rock and branch away from my Tension Head (a track which has incidentally been on my top five records for the last decade), let my ears broaden their taste and listen to fellow desert rockers Masters of Reality, which although I was quite familiar with them I hadn’t fully appreciated. Main member and founder Chris Goss has produced many QOTSA records, and so it’s a clear lineage many make associating the two bands together. To my bountiful joy I was pleased with what I heard in the shape of Pine/Cross Dover, kicking off with King Richard TLH, epitomizing from the outset the classic chugga chugga desert rock sound in a nutshell. This song makes me want to get up to get down, swing my limbs around the room and air drum to the max. Which, after doing so left me injured, but on a futuristic trip through nostalgia at the cusp of the desert rocking it’s best.

Chris Goss
Chris Goss – something of a character!

Aside from the belting opener, stand out tracks include the blissful Always, pounding with its repetitive drum beats and guitar riffs commonly associated to bands in the Palm Desert scene. The instrumental Johnny’s Dream, broadens the sound and style of Masters of Reality to something more then what many have said to be within the realms of stoner rock. Johnny’s Dream is pure end credit music and an awakening to the bands’ previous explorations. Further tracks to download include Absinthe Jim and Me, and the juggernaut Up In It, with Dave Catching playing guest guitar on the former – a fellow member of the desert rock scene and collaborator to many Josh Homme projects, including touring with Eagles of Death Metal last year. Masters of Reality, who add a dash of dark riff house blues to complete their newest record, are for anyone who has overplayed their Queens of the Stone Age records (which does happen) and are after a darker and deeper foray into the light of desert rock at it’s best. Due to tour the UK supporting The Cult in early 2011, if you’re into psychedelic, desert rock and dirty riffs, this is a band you don’t want to miss.

Masters of reality Pine

Masters of Reality return with their latest mind altered offering to master their, approved well, approved reality. Their sixth and latest record Pine/Cross Dover is a welcome return of the classic American desert kings who have many rock and roll fingers in many Palm Desert pies. Although released in 2009, the record is making waves over in the UK now. Presented as two halves, the question is Pine/Cross Dover, their first record in five years, any good?

As a pretty big Queens of the Stone Age fan, I was keen to dip my toe into the pool of rock and branch away from my Tension Head (a track which has incidentally been on my top five records for the last decade), let my ears broaden their taste and listen to fellow desert rockers Masters of Reality, which although I was quite familiar with them I hadn’t fully appreciated. Main member and founder Chris Goss has produced many QOTSA records, and so it’s a clear lineage many make associating the two bands together. To my bountiful joy I was pleased with what I heard in the shape of Pine/Cross Dover, kicking off with King Richard TLH, epitomizing from the outset the classic chugga chugga desert rock sound in a nutshell. This song makes me want to get up to get down, swing my limbs around the room and air drum to the max. Which, after doing so left me injured, but on a futuristic trip through nostalgia at the cusp of the desert rocking it’s best.

Chris Goss
Chris Goss – something of a character!

Aside from the belting opener, stand out tracks include the blissful Always, pounding with its repetitive drum beats and guitar riffs commonly associated to bands in the Palm Desert scene. The instrumental Johnny’s Dream, broadens the sound and style of Masters of Reality to something more then what many have said to be within the realms of stoner rock. Johnny’s Dream is pure end credit music and an awakening to the bands’ previous explorations. Further tracks to download include Absinthe Jim and Me, and the juggernaut Up In It, with Dave Catching playing guest guitar on the former – a fellow member of the desert rock scene and collaborator to many Josh Homme projects, including touring with Eagles of Death Metal last year. Masters of Reality, who add a dash of dark riff house blues to complete their newest record, are for anyone who has overplayed their Queens of the Stone Age records (which does happen) and are after a darker and deeper foray into the light of desert rock at it’s best. Due to tour the UK supporting The Cult in early 2011, if you’re into psychedelic, desert rock and dirty riffs, this is a band you don’t want to miss.


Illustration by Faye West

Recently in the midst of London Fashion Week (S/S 2011 already I hear you say?!) I had the chance to interview a designer who’s no stranger to the bi-annual tradition, buy nor Amelia’s Magazine. Her last interview with us took place before Fashion Week in February when the Minna brand was early in its second year and we have since seen her A/W 2010 collection provide a culmination of gothic lace and textured velvet loved by many.

But this year Minna was back to show at Estethica again, view so it was time to catch up with her whilst eyeing up her S/S 2011 look.


Minna at Estethica. All photography by Jemma Crow

So you’re back for another season within Esthetica, illness how do you think this collection is different to your others and what are you hoping to offer to the customer?
Well this season we are going back to what we do best; hand finished and truly-vintage looking pieces. We wanted each piece to look like it was a ‘one of a kind.’ This is something we achieve by tea dying vintage lace and leaving the hemlines slightly frayed. The end result is a collection of beautiful feminine pieces that are designed to suit every shape and size. I’m very excited about this collection as we’ve put into good use everything that we’ve learnt about the customer and what she wants for the past two years.


Illustration by Antonia Parker

Sounds exciting. So what has been you real drive and inspiration behind the SS11 collection?
Well I love summer so designing this collection is always the easiest for me and is always lots of fun; the only problem is that I had too many ideas to put into work. I suppose the inspiration me and my team worked from was based around the ‘Alice in Wonderland’ movie of which my daughter is a huge fan (and Minna herself could watch all day long), both other inspirations came from laid back summer afternoons in the South of France where I spend a lot of time with my family. I think it’s the slow pace of life there and the beautiful architecture to see that puts me into a creative mood.

The A/W 2010 looks on the website are beautiful and very gothic. The Claudia dress especially is amazing and very inspirational. Who do you see as your customer and where do you imagine her wearing the pieces? Is it something that you bear in mind when you create the look?
In the winter I am always craving darker pieces so that’s what I love to create for my customer. I also a big fan of creating pieces that are functional and think dresses are the perfect mix of functionality and fashion; that’s the reason there were no tops in my A/W 2010 collection. I think I directed [the collection] towards a more mature audience and I think it’s apparent that as I get older so does my design style. But it’s about not being too serious; I think its important to pay attention to the little details and the collar on the Claudia dress (very Peter Pan-esque) adds just the right amount of playfulness.

Too right that they’re not too serious (and who in fashion should be?!). I have a bit of a crush on that piece right now to kick start my autumn winter look. And from a (recently) London girl what do you think of the style in our capital? How does it compare with the Finnish style you experienced at home?
What I love about the Brits is that they’re not afraid of breaking the rules; and I’m a big believer that the rules are there to be broken. People over here aren’t just following the trends, they have their own individual style that they translate into so many different looks in their outfits. I think you’re lucky to have the British High Street here as it’s the best in the world; its cheap and accessible but it also makes it very hard for smaller brands to compete with the Primark and Topshop’s of the world.
Finland is completely different and it’s a very expensive and tricky market to break into but if you can crack it then Finnish customers are amongst the most loyal I know. In fact you can probably count on one hand the number of brands in the market. Weather is also a big issue out there though and the Finnish need like their pieces to be simple and serviceable whilst still following the trends. They have to be functional and people have to have a functional winter wardrobe to get through the seasons.
Saying this I am surprised every time I visit Finland again as there’s a new generation of fearless fashionista’s emerging who but their pieces over the internet and aren’t afraid to experiment with fashion. After all, Fashion should be fun and that’s what I try to create with my pieces and what I hope the customer gets from them too.

Thank you so much, Minna. Sounds like a great philosophy to have when looking at a collection and SS11 sounds like it will be a great year for you. I’m looking forward to it already! And put me on the list for a Claudia dress too, as you say everyone needs a functional winter wardrobe. Thanks and congratulations for London Fashion Week.

Categories ,Antonia Parker, ,estethica, ,ethical, ,Faye West, ,finland, ,interview, ,lace, ,London Fashion Week, ,Minna, ,S/S 2011, ,vintage

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Presentation Review: Teatum Jones


Teatum Jones S/S 2012 by Faye West

On Friday afternoon I took myself up the Strand to the RSA‘s grand London venue, viagra 60mg a little past the Savoy. It’s a bloody nightmare trying to get up the Strand these days. You’re either barging tourists out of the way with your London Fashion Week tote bag or stopping to give them directions. I hate that Londoners have such a mean reputation when it comes to tourists so I always smile and say ‘yes, the Ly-SEE-um is just that way, m’love’ and save my expletives until they’re out of earshot.


Teatum Jones S/S 2012 by Emma Block

I was heading for a presentation by Catherine Teatum and Rob Jones – collectively Teatum Jones, who promise ‘effortless chic‘ and ‘contemporary elegance.‘ Well, they certainly served up heaps of this on Friday. I first heard about them six months ago when they were listed on the BFC’s emerging talent roster, so it was exciting to finally get the chance to check out their wares in person.

It’s so easy to get a presentation wrong. This miserable age of austerity that we’re currently living in has forced many designers to abandon the catwalk in favour of a static set-up, but you never really know what you’re going to get. Sometimes it’s a film screening, sometimes one model stooped and forlorn in a corner while people ‘yah, yah‘ around him or her. This was a good presentation, thankfully; an amazing one, in fact. I knew it was going to be good when a gentleman who wouldn’t look out of place on a runway thrust me a vodka martini. At last: a big ol’ drink.

The RSA‘s venue is quite something. Its Georgian interior couldn’t have been a better match for this stunning collection of exquisite clothes. The room where the presentation was held had huge ceilings, enormous fireplaces and period features; the pastel colours of the walls appearing as if they had been painted especially for the occasion. A mock sort of sitting room-like set had been constructed in the centre, and people filed around this voyeuristic set-up in practical silence. A soundtrack of the Flamingos’ I Only Have Eyes For You (the second time I’d heard that song that day – TREND ALERT) and Patsy Cline’s Three Cigarettes in an Ashtray almost made me weep – saved from tears only by the feeling of excitement that this design duo had got it so right.

Illustrator/contributor extraordinaire Emma Block and her live fashion illustrations

I should probably stop banging on about the bloody room and talk about the clothes, right? Well, they were equally flawless. A handful of models, positioned on a central island, moved slowly around various pieces of furniture in flowing frocks with huge trains. Each frock featured discreet digital prints in gorgeous muted pastel colours, and the models were styled with a hint of 1920s/30s glamour – full red lips, tight curls. They didn’t smile much (that would have ruined it) but as they playfully crept around the set, an imposing chandelier hanging above, it actually looked like they were enjoying themselves. Result!


Teatum Jones S/S 2012 by Faye West

These dresses were expertly cut and the craftsmanship was faultless – that’s another good thing about a presentation, it sorts the men from the boys (I mean, it exposes poorly made garments). Layers of fabric had been fused together in a slightly oddball fashion but this provided a perfect marriage of classic and contemporary. In their own words, there’s ‘structure and fluidity‘. I couldn’t have put it better myself, which is why I copied it.

A row of static mannequins along the window edge displayed the rest of the collection – more dreamy yet subtle colours mixed with vivid yellows. These pieces showed Teatum Jones‘ commercial flair, but the winners were the show pieces, best viewed with a martini through a fake window.


All photography by Matt Bramford

Categories ,1920s, ,1930s, ,Catherine Teatum, ,Emma Block, ,fashion, ,Faye West, ,London Fashion Week, ,Martinis, ,Matt Bramford, ,pastels, ,Patsy Cline, ,Presentation, ,review, ,Rob Jones, ,rsa, ,S/S 2012, ,Savoy, ,Strand, ,Teatum Jones, ,The Flamingos, ,Trace PR, ,Trace Publicity, ,Womenswear

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Amelia’s Magazine | New S/S 2013 Season Interview: Martina Spetlova

Martina Spetlova S/S 2013 by Sharon Farrow
Martina Spetlova S/S 2013 by Sharon Farrow.

Innovative fashion designer Martina Spetlova introduces her new S/S 2013 collection and explains why you should help fund the movie to showcase her upcoming season on Kickstarter.

Marina Spetlova 'The Print & The Jacket' by Dom&Ink
Marina Spetlova ‘The Print & The Jacket‘ by Dom&Ink.

You are a textile innovator – what is it about different textures that you find so appealing?
Texture is like print for me, juxtaposing diferent textures together gives my designs the power I like to achieve in my collections. I tend to experiment with contrasting colours and opposing textures. I am always trying to find ways to treat standard fabrics to give them different structural properties – for instance by bonding, pleating and weaving satin through leathers – which helps me create a point of difference. That is how I can make my designs stand out but I also have lots of fun creating new collections. I am minimalist in shapes but maximalist in texture.

MartinaSpetlova_SS13_Look11
MartinaSpetlova_SS13_2
Your colour palette is also always very distinctive – what inspired this current season’s colour range?
My selection of colours is always little bit random. I usually start with 3 or 4 colours I like and are available and add more of them while working on my fabric samples.

Where did the graphic patterns come from?
From a photograph of my mum in the 70s.

Martina Spetlova by Alexandria Coe
Martina Spetlova by Alexandria Coe.

How do you source your fabrics?
This season I mainly worked with leather. My supplier in London has certain sustainable policies: I am concern about environment and I try to be as eco friendly as possible with my label.

Who creates your pieces?
All the knitwear is created in my studio in London, which does all samples and production at the moment. We work on domestic knitting machines.

MartinaSpetlova_SS13_Look4
MartinaSpetlova_SS13_1
What was the inspiration for the abstractions in your S/S 2013 film?
I wanted to create a land of Martina Spetlova. Shooting the collection froma microscopic view, showing the collection as a diverse landscape of bold colour and glistening mountains of fabric. It captures the detailed focus of this collection.

Martina Spetlova by Ashley Fauguel
Martina Spetlova by Ashley Fauguel.

Looking forward, what can we expect from the new collection?
The new collection is entirely leather and knitwear and features lots of textures and colours again… My simple twisted yarn knitted dresses and neckpieces accompany every look of 15 silhouettes and are a great compliment to raw edged, un-lined leather jackets, tops, skirts, shorts and trousers. Collars are created by patch-working fish skin leathers and off-cuts of sheep skin and no piece in the collection is flat. Amongst the techniques used are the playful exploration of accordion pleats on leather, cuts punched through soft leathers to create grids on the surface and my satin tape hand-woven technique from last season combined with graphic pattern (seen also on knits). I’m using softly twisted stretchy yarns for knitted neckpieces and dresses in black, light grey and graphic patterns. A/W 2013 uses soft colours of pale blue, moth green, mustard orange, white and black together with acid yellow and orange. I use a high quality of craftsmanship, making pieces by hand in the studio.

MartinaSpetlova_SS13_Look13
Martina Spetlova SS13 by Isher Dhiman
Martina Spetlova S/S 2013 by Isher Dhiman.

You are currently seeking funding on Kickstarter – what will these funds go towards and what can contributors expect in return?
I have set up Kickstarter to help me fund my film presentation in Somerset House during London Fashion Week, which will pay for the space to showcase my film in the Portico Rooms. Everyone who sponsors this event will be invited to Somerset House, and pieces from my collections will be gifted to generous backers. Of course there will also be a BIG THANK YOU to everyone who supports me!

There are six days left to help Martina Spetlova raise £1000 for her film presentation at the LFW – help out on Kickstarter here.

Categories ,Alexandria Coe, ,Ashley Fauguel, ,Dom & Ink, ,Dom&Ink, ,Dominic Evans, ,ethical, ,film, ,Isher Dhiman, ,Kickstarter, ,leather, ,London Fashion Week, ,Martina Spetlova, ,Portico Rooms, ,S/S 2013, ,Sharon Farrow, ,Somerset House, ,textiles

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Amelia’s Magazine | PPQ: London Fashion Week A/W 2013 Catwalk Review

PPQ A/W 2013 by Jodan Webster
PPQ A/W 2013 by Jordan Wester

We waited – for what felt like hours – in the notoriously inevitable ‘PP-Queue’, but as the gorgeous PPQ party girls of all decades strutted down the runway at the BFC Courtyard Showspace I forgave all.

PPQ AW 2013 by Amelia Gregory
PPQ AW 2013 by Amelia Gregory

Design duo Percy Parker and Amy Molyneaux kept true to PPQ’s signature youthful vibe for A/W 2013, but perked things up with luxe tailoring. The colour palette was delightfully eye scorching with vibrant bursts of neon pink, banana yellow and lime green. References to various eras were made throughout the show; 60s fitted pea coats, loud 70s style graffiti print on off-the-shoulder dresses, 80s stretch velvet bodycons and 90s cut out features were all liberally featured. The models were uniform in huge tousled beehives, held delicately together with a chunky black ribbon.

PPQ AW 2013 by Amelia Gregory
PPQ AW 2013 by Amelia Gregory

Although the show was refreshing, some of the combinations were rather too garish for my liking: the neon duchess silk dresses paired with black organza felt too much like American-Prom disaster. Nonetheless, construction and tailoring were immaculate throughout.

PPQ AW 2013 by Amelia Gregory

Accessories were en-pointe in this collection; a variety of colourful heels, dramatic wide brim suede hats and luscious boxy weekender bags – personal dibs on the black one. I couldn’t have asked for a more titillating way to end the first day of London Fashion Week.

PPQ by Chloe Douglass
PPQ A/W 2013 by Chloe Douglass

PPQ AW 2013 by Amelia Gregory
PPQ AW 2013 by Amelia Gregory
PPQ AW 2013 by Amelia Gregory
PPQ AW 2013 by Amelia Gregory
All photography by Amelia Gregory

Categories ,1960, ,1970, ,1980, ,1990, ,60s, ,70s, ,80s, ,90s, ,Amy Molyneaux, ,BFC Courtyard Showspace, ,bodycon, ,catwalk, ,Chloe Douglass, ,Colour Blocking, ,Jordan Wester, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,party, ,Percy Parker, ,ppq, ,Prom, ,runway, ,Somerset House, ,tailoring

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Presentation Review: Teatum Jones


Teatum Jones S/S 2012 by Faye West

On Friday afternoon I took myself up the Strand to the RSA‘s grand London venue, viagra 60mg a little past the Savoy. It’s a bloody nightmare trying to get up the Strand these days. You’re either barging tourists out of the way with your London Fashion Week tote bag or stopping to give them directions. I hate that Londoners have such a mean reputation when it comes to tourists so I always smile and say ‘yes, the Ly-SEE-um is just that way, m’love’ and save my expletives until they’re out of earshot.


Teatum Jones S/S 2012 by Emma Block

I was heading for a presentation by Catherine Teatum and Rob Jones – collectively Teatum Jones, who promise ‘effortless chic‘ and ‘contemporary elegance.‘ Well, they certainly served up heaps of this on Friday. I first heard about them six months ago when they were listed on the BFC’s emerging talent roster, so it was exciting to finally get the chance to check out their wares in person.

It’s so easy to get a presentation wrong. This miserable age of austerity that we’re currently living in has forced many designers to abandon the catwalk in favour of a static set-up, but you never really know what you’re going to get. Sometimes it’s a film screening, sometimes one model stooped and forlorn in a corner while people ‘yah, yah‘ around him or her. This was a good presentation, thankfully; an amazing one, in fact. I knew it was going to be good when a gentleman who wouldn’t look out of place on a runway thrust me a vodka martini. At last: a big ol’ drink.

The RSA‘s venue is quite something. Its Georgian interior couldn’t have been a better match for this stunning collection of exquisite clothes. The room where the presentation was held had huge ceilings, enormous fireplaces and period features; the pastel colours of the walls appearing as if they had been painted especially for the occasion. A mock sort of sitting room-like set had been constructed in the centre, and people filed around this voyeuristic set-up in practical silence. A soundtrack of the Flamingos’ I Only Have Eyes For You (the second time I’d heard that song that day – TREND ALERT) and Patsy Cline’s Three Cigarettes in an Ashtray almost made me weep – saved from tears only by the feeling of excitement that this design duo had got it so right.

Illustrator/contributor extraordinaire Emma Block and her live fashion illustrations

I should probably stop banging on about the bloody room and talk about the clothes, right? Well, they were equally flawless. A handful of models, positioned on a central island, moved slowly around various pieces of furniture in flowing frocks with huge trains. Each frock featured discreet digital prints in gorgeous muted pastel colours, and the models were styled with a hint of 1920s/30s glamour – full red lips, tight curls. They didn’t smile much (that would have ruined it) but as they playfully crept around the set, an imposing chandelier hanging above, it actually looked like they were enjoying themselves. Result!


Teatum Jones S/S 2012 by Faye West

These dresses were expertly cut and the craftsmanship was faultless – that’s another good thing about a presentation, it sorts the men from the boys (I mean, it exposes poorly made garments). Layers of fabric had been fused together in a slightly oddball fashion but this provided a perfect marriage of classic and contemporary. In their own words, there’s ‘structure and fluidity‘. I couldn’t have put it better myself, which is why I copied it.

A row of static mannequins along the window edge displayed the rest of the collection – more dreamy yet subtle colours mixed with vivid yellows. These pieces showed Teatum Jones‘ commercial flair, but the winners were the show pieces, best viewed with a martini through a fake window.


All photography by Matt Bramford

Categories ,1920s, ,1930s, ,Catherine Teatum, ,Emma Block, ,fashion, ,Faye West, ,London Fashion Week, ,Martinis, ,Matt Bramford, ,pastels, ,Patsy Cline, ,Presentation, ,review, ,Rob Jones, ,rsa, ,S/S 2012, ,Savoy, ,Strand, ,Teatum Jones, ,The Flamingos, ,Trace PR, ,Trace Publicity, ,Womenswear

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Amelia’s Magazine | Nova Chiu: London Fashion Week A/W 2012 Ones to Watch Preview

Nova Chiu S/S 2012 by Dana Bocai

Nova Chiu S/S 2012 by Dana Bocai

Nova Chiu’s creations look like they’ve leapt straight off the pages of ancient fairytales. Strong, architecturally inspired silhouettes burst with colour, texture, beads and print. Her LCF graduate collection was a case of Art reflecting reality, as Nova drew inspiration from her birthplace, the Yunnan province of China, also known as the ‘mystical, earthly paradise’ that is Shangri-La. The aptly named Shangri-Ladida collection mixed traditional Chinese and contemporary dressmaking methods, winning the prestigious Collection of The Year award and creating a buzz of interest around what the designer will do next.

Nova Chiu by Cassandra Mayers

All photography courtesy of Nova Chiu

Chiu will be starting as a brand-new designer this London Fashion Week, but that doesn’t mean she’s new to fashion. Nova has worked for big-name designers such as Anna Sui, Richard Nicoll, and Matthew Williamson, who are all known for their use of colour, texture and shape.

Nova Chiu by Abi Hall

Nova Chiu by Abi Hall

For her graduate collection, Nova Chui drew inspiration from China for more reasons than it being her birthplace. Feeling that although China produces most of the clothes sold around the world, not much is known about traditional and contemporary Chinese fashion. Nova decided she wanted to unveil unknown Chinese culture through her work, mixing traditional and contemporary techniques together in a collection fit for a modern-day princess.

Nova Chiu by Dark Lens

Nova Chiu by Dark Lens

Nova’s background in Surface Textiles is evident in her choice of modern and traditional prints, embellishments, and fabrics. I love her use of different textiles and creativity with red and yellow faux fur, which she embroidered into or pressed prints onto. Not many people could whip up a traditional Chinese ‘ink and wash’ painting method and place it on cotton and nylon to such a fresh effect. Jade and wooden beads poke through faux fur and run along edges as decoration. Sequins and different types of bells were also embedded in the fabric, meaning a girl wearing Nova Chiu will most definitely be seen and heard.

Nova Chiu by Dana Bocai

Nova Chiu by Dana Bocai

The beauty of a graduate collection, and Nova’s in particular, is that burst of energy from the pages of a student sketchbook into a catwalk collection. With her sketchbook lovingly displayed on her website, visitors get a sneak peak at the work that went into her attention-grabbing graduate collection. The illustrator in me loves the detailed, feminine and surreal drawings Nova creates. This designer spends a lot of time illustrating.

Nova Chiu by Jo Ley

Nova Chiu by Jo Ley

Nova Chiu by Cassandra Mayers

This London Fashion Week, I truly cannot wait to see what Nova has in store. Will it be a development of the graduate collection or a complete change? I think we can predict more fascinating displays of her expertise and playfulness with surface textiles. I know I want to see more of her beaded and embellished faux fur; seeing shimmering stones poking out from candy-coloured fur reminds me of some type of fairytale animal. Whatever colour, inspiration, shape or customer she chooses to create for, I’m sure this London Fashion Week will be heaven on earth for Nova Chiu.

Nova Chiu by Jo Ley

Nova Chiu by Jo Ley

Nova Chiu will be debuting her A/W 2012 collection this London Fashion Week on Friday the 17th of February at the Vauxhall Fashion Scout Ones to Watch show

Categories ,A/W 2010, ,Abi Hall, ,Alia Gargum, ,Anna Sui, ,China, ,colour, ,Dana Bocai, ,Fashion Illustration, ,Faux Fur, ,Jo Ley, ,london, ,London College of Fashion, ,London Fashion Week, ,Matthew Williamson, ,Nova Chiu, ,Ones To Watch, ,Richard Nicholl, ,Shangri-Ladida, ,surface design, ,Vauxhall Fashion Scout, ,Womenswear

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