Amelia’s Magazine | Lu Flux introduces Sea and Be Seen A/W 2011 and A-Lu-Ha S/S 2012 collections

Lu-Flux-SS-2012-by-Antonia-Parker
Lu Flux S/S 2012 by Antonia Parker.

This year Lu Flux decided to show in the main exhibition area of London Fashion Week, away from Estethica for the first time. I was delighted to see that her stand was the usual riot of colour, a return to the mix and match patchwork aesthetic from which she strayed a tiny bit last season. Under the desk was a giant cookie, created by Millie’s Cookies as a winning design for their Cookie Couture Collection. It was inspired by her new S/S 2012 A-Lu-Ha collection, with bold swirls based on the design of a Tiki mask. It’s been awhile since I checked in with ACOFI featured eco designer Lu Flux, so it’s definitely time to catch up on the past two seasons.

Lu Flux AW 2011 sea and be seen
Lu Flux AW 2011 sea and be seen
Lu Flux AW 2011 sea and be seen
Lu Flux A/W 2011 by Estelle Morris
Lu Flux A/W 2011 by Estelle Morris.

For your A/W 2011 collection you worked with Shetland wool producers Jamieson & Smith – how did this come about and did you learn anything interesting about wool production on your recent trip to the Shetland isles?
I have always appreciated and supported British manufacturers and the use of local produce; I believe that Jamieson & Smith represent the essence of this very well. I am also drawn to the Shetland Islands and was very intrigued to understand the natural and careful processing of the wool, which uses the crofters’ traditional and precious methods from start to finish. 

Lu Flux AW 2011 sea and be seen
Lu Flux AW 2011 sea and be seen
Lu Flux AW 2011 sea and be seen
Lu Flux A/W 2011 by SarahJayneDraws
Lu Flux A/W 2011 by Sarah Jayne Morris.   

The collection was inspired by creatures of the deep sea – how did this translate into the full collection, which features some opulent velvets and beautiful bold prints?
The collection takes moments from the deep dark depths of the sea and exaggerates their textures and forms, the embroidery for example references the bioluminescent creatures and the fabric was manipulatated to resemble giant clams and anemones.    

Lu Flux AW 2011 sea and be seen
Lu Flux AW 2011 sea and be seen
Lu Flux AW 2011 sea and be seen
Lu Flux Sea & Be Seen Autumn Winter 2011 by Sam Parr
Lu Flux Sea & Be Seen A/W 2011 by Sam Parr.

Sea & Be Seen is in the shops now – where can fans of Lu Flux find a piece in the UK?
You can find the new collection in Labour of Love in Islington, London, 69b Broadway Market, East London and Wolf & Badger in West London.


Your videos are always truly wonderful – what were your storyboard ideas for A/W 2011? It has a very decadent esoteric and otherworldly feel.
The A/W 2011 Sea & Be Seen video portrays a group of pleasure seekers tired of each other’s company and so to entice a change of mood the hostess offers a mysterious and magical gift. The gift unleashes the dreamy aquatic motifs of the collection which whirl around the velvet-draped den, sending spirits rocketing. Neil O’Driscoll (the director that I work with) wanted to introduce more animation following on from the S/S 2011 film and so we used the illustrations from the prints (drawn by Dan Arnold) and brought them to life.  

Lu Flux SS 2012 A-Lu-Ha
Lu Flux SS 2012 A-Lu-Ha
Lu Flux SS 2012 A-Lu-Ha
Lu Flux S/S 2012 by Amber Grayson
Lu Flux S/S 2012 by Amber Grayson.


You have given the S/S 2012 A-Lu-Ha video a retro feel thanks to the soundtrack and camera work, was this a deliberate attempt to get away from a too heavily Hawaiian feel, and what inspired it? Food also features heavily – what dictated your choice of food?
There was quite a prominent sense of the 60’s in the Hawaiian imagery and research that I looked at during the initial stages of the collection, so the soundtrack for Barbarella seemed quite complimentary. British car boot sales and village fetes combined with an English tea party were the influences for the elements of food in the video, which is why we used things like blancmange, jelly, tea, hundreds and thousands, and even a Victoria sponge cake covered in sand. Blancmange is quite simply disgusting if you haven’t tried it by the way!

Lu Flux SS 2012 A-Lu-Ha
Lu Flux SS 2012 A-Lu-Ha
Lu Flux S/S 2012 by Antonia Parker
Lu Flux S/S 2012 by Antonia Parker.

This season sees a return to your colourful patchwork best… what is it that you love most about creating fashion and which processes can you not live without?
I love that I am able to create fashion every day and I like to think about my garments being found in all four corners of the world, seen by a worldwide audience. I would say patchworking is my inherent process, as it is my signature technique and I include it in all of my collections.    

Lu Flux SS 2012 A-Lu-Ha
Lu Flux SS 2012 A-Lu-Ha
Lu Flux Tiki face by Amber Grayson
Lu Flux Tiki face by Amber Grayson.

What do you think it is in your DNA that makes you so attracted to colourful whimsy? Can you directly relate it back to anything you grew up with or fell in love with as a child?
Ha! I must have been born on a patchwork rug! Well I have learnt a lot from my mum in terms of the methods I use. My first making memory I have is of myself, my mum and my cousin making ragdolls together -mine had long black plaited wool hair in bunches but we never got around to creating the facial features. I still have her, but I have never put a face on her.    

Lu Flux SS 2012 by Megan Turner-Jones
Lu Flux S/S 2012 by Megan Turner-Jones.

Do you ever take notice of wider fashion trends, or indeed other trends in life and do these ever effect the way you design?
I don’t really take any notice of the trends going on around me; I just design and build in my own world.

Lu Flux S/S 2012 by Estelle Morris
Lu Flux S/S 2012 by Estelle Morris.

What started on you the path of design for the current collection – eg tiki masks and aloha style – A-Lu-Ha!
It was a day in the depths of winter and I was listening to Hawaii Hour on Angel radio (an Isle of Wight radio station with the tag line Music for the Mature Listener) and it played brilliant non-stop vintage Hawaii songs. I think that was the seed of inspiration which led me to this collection. 

Lu Flux S/S 2012 by Lesley T Spencer
Lu Flux S/S 2012 by Lesley T Spencer.

I really love the way your champion other designers on your own blog. For example you have friends all over the world such as Judi of Vanguard Works and Studio Tipi – where do you meet these people and will you collaborate with any of them?
Well Judi actually found me; she has a couple of my dresses. I love discovering new artists and illustrators, it opens more doors and by collaborating with them it adds other dynamic elements to my work.    

Lu Flux S/S 2012 by Estelle Morris
Lu Flux S/S 2012 by Estelle Morris.

How do you find out about Lu Flux fans such as the Japanese blogger Chiaki, and who would your ideal Lu Flux wearer be?
I found out about Chiaki through my Japanese agents who are constantly updating me on the goings on in Japanese fashion and press. I like it when people wear outfits which match their character, like Brie Larson for example. She is an American actress who stars in a show called The United States of Tara and she wore my Boo Boo Bear dress. After meeting her I thought they went hand in hand.

You can read more about Lu Flux in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration.

Categories ,69b Broadway Market, ,A-Lu-Ha, ,A/W 2011, ,ACOFI, ,Amber Grayson, ,Antonia Parker, ,Barbarella, ,Boo Boo Bear, ,Brie Larson, ,Chiaki, ,crofting, ,Dan Arnold, ,Eco fashion, ,Estelle Morris, ,Hawaii Hour, ,Hawaiian, ,isle of wight, ,Jamieson & Smith, ,japanese, ,Labour of Love, ,Lesley T Spencer, ,London Fashion Week, ,Lu Flux, ,Megan Turner-Jones, ,Millie’s Cookies, ,S/S 2012, ,Sam Parr, ,Sarah Jayne Morris, ,Sea & Be Seen, ,Shetland Islands, ,Shetland Wool, ,Studio Tipi, ,Tiki, ,United States of Tara, ,Vanguard Works, ,Wolf & Badger

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Amelia’s Magazine | Miriam Lehle of Prose Studio: New S/S 2012 Season Presentation Preview and Interview

Prose SS 2012 by Marta Spendowska
Prose SS 2012 by Marta Spendowska.

I was very surprised and pleased to encounter German designer Miriam Lehle of Prose Studio at the stands during London Fashion Week in September. You may remember that I was most entranced by her rose covered A/W 2011 collection (read my interview here) but I was equally stunned by her skeleton influenced collection for S/S 2012.

Prose S/S 2012 Skeleton Lace Top by Farzeen Jabbar
Prose S/S 2012 Skeleton Lace Top by Farzeen Jabbar.

It was lovely to see you at LFW – what was behind your choice to present the new collection in the UK and was it a success?
First of all: I love London. It feels like a second home. But it’s also the home of innovative, internationally renowned young labels. Nowhere else is given so much support to young designers. We had great feedback, met a lot of interesting people and got lots of good press. We will be definitely back next season. It won’t work out without consistency. 

Prose SS 2012 loose_leather_jacket_front
Prose SS 2012 print_dress_print_catsuit_2
Prose SS 2012 skeleton_dress_tight_strapless_front
Prose SS 2012 skeleton_lace_cape_loose_blouse
I love your use of different models in the look book – what inspired this choice and where did you find the models?
I wanted the new collection to be presented by people that have their own special something and are all beautiful because of their individuality. The cast of models is a potpourri: friends, neighbours and additionally we did a street casting. 

Prose S/S 2012 by SarahJayneDraws aka Sarah Jayne Morris
Prose S/S 2012 by SarahJayneDraws aka Sarah Jayne Morris.

The lace pattern has the effect of looking almost like bones and the whole collection has a tribal feel – was this intentional and are you happy with this interpretation?
Many pieces have names such as Skeleton Dress or X-ray shirt. The idea has been to adapt the lace to the body so that the natural shape and construction of the body is emphazised. 

Prose SS 2012 skeleton_lace_top_front
Prose SS 2012 skeleton_lace_top_tight_-baggy_pants_front
Prose SS 2012 skeleton_shirt_dress_front
What inspired the colour palette, which is very neutral apart from a coral pink?
I wanted to focus on the way of using the lace and the combination of heavy and light materials, playing with transparency. I was not interested in using colour this season. 

Prose SS 12 by Farzeen Jabbar
Prose S/S 2012 Skeleton Lace Top by Farzeen Jabbar.

Who do you hope will wear Prose S/S 2012?
The collection movie is the answer to that question. I’m not designing for a type. People can mix and match and adjust the clothes to their individual needs and sytle. 

YouTube Preview Image
YouTube Preview Image

Where can we buy this in the UK?
The collection will be avaialble in New York, Paris and Italy. And online at Miosato.

Prose SS12 by Estelle Morris
Prose S/S 2012 by Estelle Morris.

Will we see you next season, and do you have anything special planned that you can share with us?
Definitely a beautiful new collection and hopefully presented on the catwalk! We are busy on working out the plans for next season. 

Prose SS 2012 x-ray_dress_front
Prose SS 2012 x-ray_top_print_trousers

Categories ,Estelle Morris, ,Farzeen Jabbar, ,German, ,London Fashion Week, ,Marta Spendowska, ,Miriam Lehle, ,Prose Studio, ,S/S 2012, ,Sarah Jayne Morris, ,SarahJayneDraws, ,Skeleton Dress, ,X-ray

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Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion Capital Profile Fashion Event 2011 Review

Kelly Love by Cruz Illustration
Kelly Love by Cruz.

Online fashion portal Fashion Capital has been showcasing their very own catwalk show since 2001. Now in their 10th season, the online trend forecasters have successfully established themselves as the link between Graduate Fashion Week and London Fashion Week. Held at the extravagant Grand Soane Hall at One Marylebone, the press release promised the best of emerging talent from London and beyond, not to mention a little nugget of comedy in the form of Lauren Goodger’s debut collection; the 25-year-old reality TV star mildly famous for her part in The Only Way Is Essex.
 
Kelly Love
Kelly Love
Kelly Love. All photography by Sarah Deane.
 
Holding their own throughout the show was a number of up-and-coming designers, offering wearable, high street tailored designs for S/S 2012. If I’m honest, some of the looks on show wouldn’t have looked too out of place in a Jane Norman-esque store, but the static trade show was successful in delivering a promising variety of new names from here in the UK and around the world.

Jezabel Jones
Jezabel Jones
Jezabel Jones by Estelle Morris
Jezabel Jones by Estelle Morris.
 
ANAR
ANAR
ANAR by Estelle Morris
ANAR by Estelle Morris.

Catching my sceptical eye at the show was London-based Jezabel Jones who showcased minimalist shapes in a straight forward colour palette of black and grey complete with sheer detailing and striking gold chokers. Eurasian-born designer ANAR also delivered a selection of wearable looks with a retro-modernist collection that featured ’20s style skull caps alongside modern body-con dresses and luxe fabrics.
 
Tobi Hannah
Tobi Hannah
Tobi Hannah by Rachel James
Tobi Hannah by Rachel James.

Rachel Antonio
Rachel Antonio by Cruz
Rachel Antonio by Cruz.

Other highlights included sweetly designed summertime shorts and maxi dresses by Australian-based designer Kelly Love. Undoubtedly a little too sickly-sweet for some, the collection featured soft wearing fabrics complete with delicate rose prints in blush and fuchsia pink. Wedding dress designer Tobi Hannah offered an electric range to satisfy all tastes, from elaborate ruffle hem minis to exotic printed dresses in sheer fabrics, whilst Rachel Antonio offered elegant evening wear – notable her extravagant multi-layered maxi dress in red.

Vjera Vilicnik
Vjera Vilicnik
Vjera Vilicnik by Rachel James
Vjera Vilicnik by Rachel James.

Putting on probably the most covetable show of the evening was British designer Vjera Vilicnik, presenting masterfully hand-crafted dresses in white and black complete with ’40s-inspired shapes and opulent bursts of sapphire green.
 
Christina Dami
Christina Dami.

Christopher Waler
Christopher Waler.
 
For those of you interested in what the show’s supposed selling point had to offer, here’s a small snippet of Lauren Goodger‘s debut collection Lauren’s Way. Burning my eyes with flamenco pink dresses and tiered peplum detailing, I’ll spare you from too much trauma with just a couple of images from the pink-infused collection…
 
Lauren's Way
Lauren's Way

Categories ,ANAR, ,Christina Dami, ,Christopher Waler, ,Cruz, ,Estelle Morris, ,fashion, ,Fashion Capital, ,graduate, ,Graduate Fashion Week, ,Grand Soane Hall, ,Jezabel Jones, ,Kelly Love, ,Lauren Goodger, ,Lauren’s Way, ,London Fashion Week, ,One Marylebone, ,Profile, ,Rachel Antonio, ,Rachel James, ,review, ,S/S 2012, ,The Only Way is Essex, ,Tobi Hannah, ,TOWIE, ,Vjera Vilicnik

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Amelia’s Magazine | An interview with Accessory Designer Hope Von Joel from Eye of the World Designs

Eye of the World by Milly Jackson
Eye of the World S/S 2012 collection by Milly Jackson.

Hope Von Joel is a multi-talented knitwear designer, more about stylist, see fashion editor and accessories designer. But just how does she do it all? Read on to find out more about Eye of the World Designs.

Hope, you studied knitwear at Central Saint Martins and have also worked with the likes of Alexander McQueen, Gareth Pugh and Charlie le Mindu. As a stylist you’ve been a fashion editor for Super Super and now at Fiasco Magazine. What prompted the move into accessories design and was it a steep learning curve?
During my time at Central Saint Martins I worked at the houses of McQueen and Pugh on knitwear and design. These where both invaluable experiences and have definitely shaped by view of fashion to this date. It was a pleasure to see how the Design teams worked on the process behind such imaginative and wonderful collections. Styling wise yes I have previously worked with Charlie Le Mindu on his catwalk collection and Look Book; his creative flair is addictive and he is definitely a very capable and imaginative designer and business man! Styling for me is a great pleasure, I have worked on all sorts of projects from editorials for Elle Girl, Vogue, Oyster etc, to various fashion shows and big creative advertising campaigns – it’s a job with many different dimensions. I am always thrilled to work with clothing and accessories which break boundaries and challenge perceptions of the female form.  

Eye of the World Designs
Eye of the World Designs created for Brooke Roberts A/W 2012.

WIth this in mind the move over to accessories designing was quite easy. Having studied the concept of design at Central Saint Martins and seeing what is on offer from the bigger design houses I felt there was definitely a place in the market for sustainable, beautifully designed and hand finished pieces that are also made in the UK. What is nice about this sort of design is the fact that people can follow it from the design to the finished piece. Much of our raw materials are recycled or reclaimed and this gives the buyer a personal experience. I had the opportunity to work with Brooke Roberts because I was styling her collections, and it has been a great platform to launch the designs and see them worn with knitwear, which is another one of my passions.

Eye of the World Designs
Eye of the World accessories created for Brooke Roberts A/W 2012.

How do you juggle your different jobs? 
It’s about time management and everything has its place. The way I work is very creative but things overlap and that’s the joy of London and the creative scene. I am with an agent in London for my styling: Clicks and Contacts. They are a great creative push in that area and the rest I am learning along the way. 

Eye of the World Designs
Eye of the World accessories created for Brooke Roberts A/W 2012.

What’s in a name? How did you come up with Eye of the World designs?
Eye of the World Designs was thought up by my business partner Liam Motyer when we where travelling in South America. It became one of our favourite sayings and can apply to anything and everything. Our love of the organic form of wood seemed to offer a great view point on the world. I like the way it influences everything, very much like fashion; and so our use of wood has stuck.

Eye of the World S/S 2012 belts by Estelle Morris
Eye of the World S/S 2012 belts by Estelle Morris.

What inspires you when you start creating a collection and how do you ensure your ideas are translated into successful accessories. What parameters do you need to consider?
Colour colour colour colour… and wood. We take influences from anything and everything, from organic forms to marbles and glass… really anything that touches us. The colours of wood play a great influence, so if something doesn’t go with wood it’s not for us! This season we have been loving Orchids, Marbles and Wood. We always consider the season, who our customer is and what she is going to wear our accessories for. It’s like playing dress up with your favourite doll, creating a scene, place and style for each particular season.

Eye of the World Designs
Eye of the World accessories created for Brooke Roberts A/W 2012.

Most of your designs use wood – why is this and where do you source your wood from?
All our wood is sustainable, reclaimed or recycled and sourced locally to SE London. The reason we love wood is because Liam is a master craftsmen and his creativity and flair is in his manipulation of wood. We design and hand make every piece together in Peckham, with much love.

Eye of the World Designs S/S 2012
Eye of the World Designs S/S 2012.

Your pieces are notable for being extremely bold. How do you think they are best worn?
With a smile and a confidence that belongs to the wearer. I think that you should wear your clothes and accessories instead of letting them wear you.

Eye of the World Designs
Eye of the World accessories created for Brooke Roberts A/W 2012.

Your collection is styled with knitwear by Brooke Roberts – how does this collaboration work, and does it make you miss the world of knitwear? Any chance of a return?  
We worked with Brooke Roberts on two collaborations this season and last season. Last season I also styled her collections as I have done for some time. Her knitwear is luxurious and beautifully finished and her organic forms lend themselves to wooden accessories beautifully. I would love to return to knitwear and sometime soon I know I will! It’s a love and once you have the bug and the creative knowledge it’s like riding a bike.

Eye of the World Designs Converse
You recently created a special piece for the Converse Bag range. Can you tell me a little bit more about this project and what inspired your design?
Working with Converse was ace, we where asked to design a bag that reflected our love for Back to School. For us school was about movies, skating and moving forwards with speed. So we referenced the movie Back to the Future and created a real treat – a wooden and red flocked bag that combines music and design. Our signature is wood and so it seemed a perfect combination. The wood was all reclaimed and matched the original bags colour and the flocking is a technique that we are perfecting at the moment. We are also flocking wooden hats for editorials, so watch this space. We had a ball making the Converse bag and look forward to more projects in the future.

Eye of the World Designs Converse bag
What’s next for Eye of the World?
Well the world is our oyster. We hope to make more bespoke accessories because we love making extravagant pieces, which we have done for a few mega editorials that will be out in some big publications shortly. We are also now working on an A/W 2012 collection that will sparkle you all away. Eye of the World Designs continues to collaborate with all sorts of people. Our master craftsman Liam is creating some pieces with furniture makers Hendzel and Hunt for Designersblock and also for Selfridges. Lastly but most excitingly Eye of the World Designs for Brooke Roberts are now available to buy at Browns Focus and bespoke pieces are available directly from us.

You can follow Hope Von Joel‘s exploits on her blog, and don’t forget to take a peek at the Eye Of The World website too.

Categories ,accessories, ,Alexander Mc Queen, ,Back to School, ,Brooke Roberts, ,Browns Focus, ,Central Saint Martins, ,Charlie le Mindu, ,Clicks and Contacts, ,Converse Bag, ,Designersblock, ,Elle Girl, ,Estelle Morris, ,Eye of the World, ,Fashion Editor, ,Fiasco Magazine, ,Gareth Pugh, ,interview, ,knitwear, ,Liam Motyer, ,Marbles, ,Milly Jackson, ,Orchids, ,Oyster, ,Peckham, ,Reclaimed, ,recycled, ,S/S 2012, ,Selfridges, ,stylist, ,Super Super, ,sustainable, ,vogue, ,wood, ,Woodcraft

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Amelia’s Magazine | An interview with fashion designer Ramil Makinano


Ramil Makinano‘s Graduate Collection illustrated by Milly Jackson

I first saw the weird and wonderful work of Ramil Makinano at the Toni&Guy Hair Show during London Fashion Week last month. The show, which I very much enjoyed, was all about hair as you can imagine; the clothes were selected to compliment the hairstyles and were pretty basic. That is, except for the final pieces. Vibrant colours and odd shapes flooded the runway, and as a result of my review, Ramil got in touch to introduce himself. I couldn’t wait to find out more about this unique designer.

I met Ramil on a chilly Monday evening at Bar Music Hall in Shoreditch. It had been hard to pin him down, and I was about to find out why. Born and raised in the Philippines, Ramil moved to London fifteen years ago on a nursing scholarship with the NHS, despite being thoroughly passionate about fashion from an early age. ‘It was a good way to move away,’ Ramil told me as we took a seat with our beers. ‘I was interviewed in Manilla, and was one of the first few people to be brought over by the NHS.’ Ramil’s passion for nursing and inevitable need to fund his collections still see him working at St Thomas’ Hospital at weekends.


Ramil Makinano‘s Graduate Collection illustrated by Maria del Carmen Smith

After 8 years working as a nurse after qualifying in London, Ramil decided to return to his desire to become a fashion designer and had naturally heard of the world’s most famous fashion school – Central Saint Martins. By this time Ramil had obtained British citizenship and secured a place on the foundation course, professing to the degree specialising in print.

It was whilst studying at Saint Martins on a sandwich course that Ramil undertook placements with some of fashion’s greatest talent, experiences that he remembers very fondly. Internships at Matthew Williamson, Elisa Palomino and Diane Von Furstenberg allowed Ramil to fully explore his penchant for print. As I rub my hands together hoping for some juice on these fashion figures, I’m only slightly disappointed when Ramil has nothing but great things to say about the designers. He tells me a story about Von Furstenberg calling all the interns to the rooftop apartment of her 14th Street studios for lunch. ‘We were just sitting there, having lunch, on the roof, with Diane Von Furstenberg. It was INCREDIBLE!’ he exclaims. He attributes his successes whilst studying to course lecturer Natalie Gibson. ‘I owe her so much,’ he tells me, ‘she’s an incredible woman.’


Ramil Makinano‘s Graduate Collection illustrated by Estelle Morris

We move on to talk about Ramil’s breathtaking final collection that I saw at the Toni&Guyshow and that he presented during the CSM presentations in the summer. He digs out his portfolio and comes across a little nervous when talking me through it. ‘I feel like it’s a job interview!’ says Ramil. I feel like Diane Von Furstenberg for a mere moment, and I’m not complaining. Ramil’s inspiration for his collection came from two disparate sources – Medieval armour and Margaret Thatcher. Well, not that disparate when you consider satirical cartoons of the Iron Lady in Medieval garb, I suppose.


Pages from Ramil Makinano’s sketchbooks

His obsession with colour, texture and the aesthetic properties of materials is all over this collection. It’s fascinating to see where a designer started with their research and where they finished; where the collection has come from. Ramil leafs through page after page of design inspiration; vibrant patterns, sketches of Thatcher, photocopies of Medieval source material, grabs from movies like 2001: A Space Odyssey and Star Wars. His journey began at the Tower of London, and it is the armoury he saw there, with its bold silhouettes and sense of purpose that inspired Ramil so much. Throw in a powerful woman like Thatcher and you’ve got a seriously ambitious collection on your hands. ‘I didn’t want it to be serious, though,’ Ramil informs me. ‘I wanted to keep it playful; to be fun.’ Even the hardest-nosed critics would have trouble not finding any fun in this set of outfits.

Shapes in the collection are visibly inspired by the curves and sculpture of armoury, constructed from neoprene using techniques Ramil created himself. These are presented in a variety of bold colours, and the ensembles feature playful, almost childlike, prints of rockets and spaceships. It wasn’t a easy task by any means. ‘I had to make at least 8 toilles per garment,’ Ramil explains. ‘I am always seeking perfection.’ We discuss the surge in digital printing. ‘I do like digital prints, but I prefer traditional methods. I spent hours in the studio matching colours, testing colours – I like the interaction between fabrics and dyes that you don’t get with digital methods. I spent my whole student life in the print room, but I have no regrets. It’s not glamorous either, it’s dirty work!’


Ramil Makinano‘s Graduate Collection illustrated by Milly Jackson

So who does he admire? ‘Matthew [Williamson] and Diane [Von Furstenberg] especially – people who are successful in fashion but have their feet firmly on the ground.’ He also likes labels that continue to employ traditional methods – only Eley Kishimoto and Zandra Rhodes, he believes. What else does he get up to? It’s a pretty packed week, researching Monday to Friday and nursing at the weekends. ‘I love London galleries!’ he tells me, ‘because there’s so much to see. The Design Museum, the V&A, the National Gallery – they are all so wonderful.’ He try to persuade me to get a National Trust membership, one of his favoured possessions.


Pages from Ramil Makinano’s sketchbooks

He tells me he’s a ‘child of the MTV era’ and finds much inspiration in the graphics of music videos. It was an MTV show, House of Style, and Style with Elsa Klensch, that are amongst his earliest fashion memories. He tells me ‘I used to fight with my brother all the time because Elsa Klensch‘s show was on at the same time as American Basketball!’

So what’s next for Ramil? He’s currently researching his next collection – A/W 2012 – which promises to be ‘something completely different.’ It will most likely be print-based, but that’s all Ramil can tell me at this stage. One thing he is certain on is that he’s staying put here in London, and currently applying to various fashion bodies in the hope of a debut solo show during fashion week next September. I look forward to seeing his name on the schedule.

Photographs courtesy of Ramil Makinano

Categories ,2001 A Space Odyssey, ,A/W 2012, ,American Basketball, ,Armour, ,Armoury, ,Bar Music Hall, ,catwalk, ,Central Saint Martins, ,CSM, ,Design Museum, ,Diane Von Furstenberg, ,Eley Kishimoto, ,Elisa Palomino, ,Elsa Klensch, ,Estelle Morris, ,fashion, ,House of Style, ,interview, ,Iron Lady, ,London Fashion Week, ,margaret thatcher, ,Maria del Carmen Smith, ,Matt Bramford, ,Matthew Williamson, ,medieval, ,Milly Jackson, ,MTV, ,Natalie Gibson, ,National gallery, ,National Trust, ,NHS, ,print, ,Ramil Makinano, ,shoreditch, ,Star Wars, ,textiles, ,Toni&Guy, ,Tower of London, ,va, ,Womenswear, ,Zandra Rhodes

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Amelia’s Magazine | Lush Christmas Gifts: 2011 Product Review

lush-christmas-products-by-katrina-conquista
Lush Christmas products by Katrina Conquista.

Lush prides itself on in-house inventions such as the solid shampoo bar and the shower jelly – and Lush inventors like to have particular fun at Christmas. They provide products that make great gift baskets for women or even stocking stuffers. Here’s a round up of the most exciting new products coming out of Lush land in time for a bit of festive bath time fun:

LUSH Cosmetics by Barb Royal
LUSH Chilli Tingle lip tint by Barb Royal. Inspired by a trip to Mexico, this lip balm is guaranteed to give you hot lips in cold weather.

Lip Scrub by Estelle Morris
Lip Scrub by Estelle Morris. Perfect for potential under-the-mistletoe snogging action.

Lush Golden Wonder
The Golden Wonder bath ballistic bears no relation to the well known crisp brand but instead looks like a miniature golden gift, and it’s even better in the water – as the bomb dissolves it sends out a shower of golden stars and the water turns blue. All this is accompanied by the sweet scents of sweet orange, cognac and lime. Bring on the party season!

LUSH-Christmas---Amelia's-Magazine---Janneke-de-Jong
LUSH Christmas by Janneke de Jong.

Northern Lights soap Lush
The Northern Lights soap is reminiscent of the phenomenon in the sky, infused with the scents of a Nordic forest and shimmering in transparent stripes.

Star Wand by Estelle Morris
Magic Wand by Estelle Morris. Lay back, relax, and dabble your wand in the bath to produce the perfect amount of bubbles.

Lush buche de noel
The Buche de Noel is a ‘cleansing roll’ that looks suspiciously like a giant slab of sushi, fitting then that it includes a nourishing sheet of Nori seaweed as it’s wrap.

LUSH Bath by Barb Royal
LUSH Cinders Bath Bomb by Barb Royal. This Christmassy mix features popping candy for extra crackle when it hits the water.

Jilted elf
The Jilted Elf shower jelly was inspired by a cocktail recipe from New York. It’s a zesty blend of grapefruit, vodka and ginger that should provide an uplifting start to the day.

glogg_lush
I’ve always been partial to a bit of traditional Glogg, the traditional mulled drink of Scandinavian countries. Put the familiar ingredients of orange, lemon, red wine, brandy, cinnamon and clove together and you’ve got another very special shower gel.

Lil Lush Pud by Estelle Morris copy
Lil Lush Pud by Estelle Morris. Another festive bath bomb with a big personality – scented with marzipan, lemon peel powder, clove powder, aloe vera extract and rose.

YouTube Preview Image
I’ve always admired the ethos of Lush, putting planetary care at the top of the agenda – both in terms of the way they create products (ingredients are always carefully sourced and solids are favoured because they use less preservatives and packaging) and also for the support they give grassroots environmental activists. In fact, I even did a talk to introduce Lush employees to Climate Rush a few years ago (you might be able to spot me in the video above). Why not give a bit of Lush this Christmas? It’s the perfect way to indulge someone whilst adding a bit back too.

LUSH Fresh Handmade Cosmetics by Barb Royal
LUSH Fresh Handmade Cosmetics by Barb Royal.

Lush Candy Cane
Lush Candy Cane soap.

Lush gingerbread_house
Lush Gingerbread House. It looks good enough to eat but this one is for the water only. With essence of ginger, blackcurrant and lemon.

Categories ,Barb Royal, ,Bath Ballistics, ,Buche de Noel, ,Candy Cane, ,Chilli Tingle, ,Christmas, ,Cinders Bath Bomb, ,Cleansing Roll, ,Climate Rush, ,Estelle Morris, ,Gingerbread House, ,Glogg, ,Golden Wonder, ,Janneke de Jong, ,Jilted Elf, ,Katrina Conquista, ,Lil Lush Pud, ,Lip Scrub, ,lush, ,Magic Wand, ,Northern Lights, ,review, ,Shower Jelly, ,Soap

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Amelia’s Magazine | Lush Christmas Gifts: 2011 Product Review

lush-christmas-products-by-katrina-conquista
Lush Christmas products by Katrina Conquista.

Lush prides itself on in-house inventions such as the solid shampoo bar and the shower jelly – and Lush inventors like to have particular fun at Christmas. They provide products that make great gift baskets for women or even stocking stuffers. Here’s a round up of the most exciting new products coming out of Lush land in time for a bit of festive bath time fun:

LUSH Cosmetics by Barb Royal
LUSH Chilli Tingle lip tint by Barb Royal. Inspired by a trip to Mexico, this lip balm is guaranteed to give you hot lips in cold weather.

Lip Scrub by Estelle Morris
Lip Scrub by Estelle Morris. Perfect for potential under-the-mistletoe snogging action.

Lush Golden Wonder
The Golden Wonder bath ballistic bears no relation to the well known crisp brand but instead looks like a miniature golden gift, and it’s even better in the water – as the bomb dissolves it sends out a shower of golden stars and the water turns blue. All this is accompanied by the sweet scents of sweet orange, cognac and lime. Bring on the party season!

LUSH-Christmas---Amelia's-Magazine---Janneke-de-Jong
LUSH Christmas by Janneke de Jong.

Northern Lights soap Lush
The Northern Lights soap is reminiscent of the phenomenon in the sky, infused with the scents of a Nordic forest and shimmering in transparent stripes.

Star Wand by Estelle Morris
Magic Wand by Estelle Morris. Lay back, relax, and dabble your wand in the bath to produce the perfect amount of bubbles.

Lush buche de noel
The Buche de Noel is a ‘cleansing roll’ that looks suspiciously like a giant slab of sushi, fitting then that it includes a nourishing sheet of Nori seaweed as it’s wrap.

LUSH Bath by Barb Royal
LUSH Cinders Bath Bomb by Barb Royal. This Christmassy mix features popping candy for extra crackle when it hits the water.

Jilted elf
The Jilted Elf shower jelly was inspired by a cocktail recipe from New York. It’s a zesty blend of grapefruit, vodka and ginger that should provide an uplifting start to the day.

glogg_lush
I’ve always been partial to a bit of traditional Glogg, the traditional mulled drink of Scandinavian countries. Put the familiar ingredients of orange, lemon, red wine, brandy, cinnamon and clove together and you’ve got another very special shower gel.

Lil Lush Pud by Estelle Morris copy
Lil Lush Pud by Estelle Morris. Another festive bath bomb with a big personality – scented with marzipan, lemon peel powder, clove powder, aloe vera extract and rose.

YouTube Preview Image
I’ve always admired the ethos of Lush, putting planetary care at the top of the agenda – both in terms of the way they create products (ingredients are always carefully sourced and solids are favoured because they use less preservatives and packaging) and also for the support they give grassroots environmental activists. In fact, I even did a talk to introduce Lush employees to Climate Rush a few years ago (you might be able to spot me in the video above). Why not give a bit of Lush this Christmas? It’s the perfect way to indulge someone whilst adding a bit back too.

LUSH Fresh Handmade Cosmetics by Barb Royal
LUSH Fresh Handmade Cosmetics by Barb Royal.

Lush Candy Cane
Lush Candy Cane soap.

Lush gingerbread_house
Lush Gingerbread House. It looks good enough to eat but this one is for the water only. With essence of ginger, blackcurrant and lemon.

Categories ,Barb Royal, ,Bath Ballistics, ,Buche de Noel, ,Candy Cane, ,Chilli Tingle, ,Christmas, ,Cinders Bath Bomb, ,Cleansing Roll, ,Climate Rush, ,Estelle Morris, ,Gingerbread House, ,Glogg, ,Golden Wonder, ,Janneke de Jong, ,Jilted Elf, ,Katrina Conquista, ,Lil Lush Pud, ,Lip Scrub, ,lush, ,Magic Wand, ,Northern Lights, ,review, ,Shower Jelly, ,Soap

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Amelia’s Magazine | Halloween 2011: a Ghoulish Celebration of the Dead in Illustration

Halloween by Karolina Burdon
Halloween by Karolina Burdon.

And so Halloween rolls around again! I’ve loved Halloween since I was a pre-teen, when I hosted annual parties for my schoolmates where I always dressed as a witch. We had apple bobbing and ‘guess the body part’ style games. (peeled grapes, cold spaghetti, jelly mashed up, etc…) Ever since then I have taken many an opportunity to dress up as a ghoul or a monster – especially during ‘night games’ hosted on Forest School Camps for children. I don’t know why, but I really relish spooking people out in the dark.

Halloween by Emmeline Pidgen
Halloween by Emmeline Pidgen.

More recently a few Amelia’s Magazine parties have conveniently coincided with this time of year – my second issue was memorably launched in the ancient disco room behind the George Tavern on Commercial Road, now boarded up. And a few years ago I went out on the town with a group of my interns – all of us sporting fake blood and fangs.

All Hallows Eve by Devin McGrath
All Hallows Eve by Devin McGrath.

I’ve just come back from Poland where the Americanised version of Halloween has yet to make a serious dent on traditions. All Saints’ Day on 1st November is a national holiday and families take the time to remember much loved relatives by placing flowers and candles on their graves. It’s a tradition I think we could do more of in the UK since we no longer seem to have much space to honour those we have lost. Instead Halloween (which has come from a combination of remembering our dead and a celebration of autumn) is merely a garish commercial opportunity. When I was little I had to make all of my own Halloween outfits and decorations, but in the past ten years I have noticed a huge increase in the amount of Halloween tat (and branded food) for sale come late October.

Halloween by Ada Jusic
Halloween by Ada Jusic.

Don’t get me wrong though, I still love Halloween even if I no longer have time to properly enjoy it myself. And I am going to make damned sure my child has the opportunity to dress up, play games and scare themselves and others senseless too. In the meantime, feast your eyes on these ghoulish illustrations.

Halloween Pumpkin by Jacqueline Valencia
Halloween Pumpkin by Jacqueline Valencia.

Sugar Skull by Jacqueline Valencia
Sugar Skull by Jacqueline Valencia.

Bacall SugarSkull Halloween by SarahJayneDraws
Brooks SugarSkull Halloween SarahJayneDraws
garbo by Sarah Jayne morris
Halloween Sugar Skulls by Sarah Jayne Draws aka Sarah Jayne Morris.

Halloween by Estelle Morris
Halloween by Estelle Morris.

.

Categories ,Ada Jusic, ,All Saints’ Day, ,Devin McGrath, ,Emmeline Pidgen, ,Estelle Morris, ,Forest School Camps, ,Ghouls, ,Hallowe’en, ,illustration, ,Jacqueline Valencia, ,Karolina Burdon, ,October, ,poland, ,Pumpkins, ,Sarah Jayne Morris, ,SarahJayneDraws, ,Sugar Skull, ,Witches

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Amelia’s Magazine | An Interview with Photographer Vikram Kushwah

Looking through Vikram Kushwah‘s dream-like work, it’s clear to see that the New Delhi-born photographer is a real fantasist at heart. Growing up in a boarding school with the enchanting Himalayas as the backdrop, Vikram’s childhood and love for all things magical has clearly influenced his work today.

Vikram Kushwah Photography
All photography by Vikram Kushwah

Vikram moved to London just three years ago and his career is already proving successful. With three critically acclaimed exhibitions under his belt, not to mention an international artist award and interest from the likes Vogue Italia, big things are predicted for Vikram Kushwah. I caught up with the ambitious photographer to find out a little bit more about his work and the inspiration behind his current book project Memoirs of a Lost Time, a collaboration with writer, Trisha Sakhlecha.

Vikram Kushwah by Estelle Morris
Vikram Kushwah Illustration by Estelle Morris

What first inspired you to start taking pictures?

The fact that photography is a direct representation of reality, yet it almost never fails to lie. It does so by allowing you to stage a setting, something that reality doesn’t allow you to do. It just exists and takes shape on its own. There’s this tension that I’ve always associated with photography and reality. You think of something and a picture is like a memento you keep, to remind you of your thoughts.

Vikram Kushwah Photography

You grew up in a boarding school in the Himalayas. How does your background inspire your work today?

It was a very big school and I had a lot of free time to explore and to read children’s storybooks. I took the stories as real happenings since there was nobody there to tell me otherwise. I was also close to nature and a bit of a dreamer; I was bound to be growing up in a place like that. Every Sunday I would watch tadpoles in a pond for hours, waiting for ‘papa frog’ to turn up and make a big splash.

Students were given a lot of freedom to discover themselves in this way. I saw magic and sorcery as real life, holding a very strong bond with wildlife and the natural world. When I studied the mystery filled art of Surrealism and the romantics’ pastoral, it took me right back to my childhood. Each of these elements play a strong part in my work today; some conscious and some sub-conscious.

Vikram Kushwah Photography

How much of your Indian heritage can be found in your work?

None. My formative years, from when I was two up until sixteen, were spent in a boarding school. Although it was in India it was a typically English school, maybe because it was founded by an English lady during the British rule during 1937. Though I come from a very traditional Indian family, my roots actually took shape at school where I spent two-thirds of every year since I was thirteen.

Vikram Kushwah Photography

What encouraged you to move to London?

It has to be the rich art and cultural heritage of Britain. The exposure, the opportunities to progress, innovate and transform, the resources to learn, the vast open country. All of this creates, within me, a mental space from where I can continue to grow as a photographer and artist.

Vikram Kushwah Photography

Do you think living in London has inspired your work in any way?

There’s so much for this ‘mental space’ to soak up here. The English countryside takes me back to my school days, back to my storybooks about pastoral landscapes and wooden cottages surrounded by forests and meadows, peasants and farmers. I keep looking for a tumbling Alice, ghoulish wolves and evil stepmothers; I sometimes do find them.

Vikram Kushwah Photography

Earlier this year you shot the photography for Hairspray: The musical. What was it like working with team behind the production?

It was a totally new experience. I enjoyed the rehearsals as much as I enjoyed photographing the play. I was left on my own and given complete freedom, and I really enjoyed the space on the balcony where I shot from. The atmosphere was exceptional and one could really see the hard work being put in by the very young actors and crew. By the end of it I knew all the lines by heart!

Vikram Kushwah Photography

Your work tends to combine both elements of fine art and fashion editorial; is there one medium you most enjoy?

There’s a definite crossover no matter how much I want to pull them apart. I have these peculiar ideas and strange stories in my head, which inform my pictures, and they never escape the thought of fashion. Not just in terms of clothing, but also in the sense of time and place. For example, there was this one picture that I only wanted shot with a certain type of Peter Pan collar. Afterwards I knew the picture wouldn’t have worked without it.

There are lots of elements in my photos that act as pieces of information about my work. Fashion is essentially one of them. The information is subject to interpretation and that’s when the mind starts to wander and stories begin to take shape.

Vikram Kushwah Photography

What is the story behind Ofelea?

The Ofelea series is a portrait of my imagination and memories, often twisted by the dark underlying layers of the storybooks I read as a child. The series of pictures is a juxtaposition of the Freudian concept The Uncanny; the constantly recurring mysterious environments in the Surrealist art movement and reconstructions of my distant childhood imagination.

There is an interesting story behind the name ‘Ofelea’. To begin with, my Ofelea had nothing to do with Shakespeare’s Hamlet. Ophelia is in fact the protagonist of one of my favourite films, Pan’s Labyrinth; this is what originally drew me to the name. During the research stage of my project, I studied both romantic and surrealist art. Here I came across the famous painting Ophelia by English painter John Everett Millais, a co-founder of the Pre-Raphaelite Brotherhood. I learnt that Millais‘ drowning of Ophilea was a depiction of Shakespeare’s very own character, thus bringing all three Ophelias (very co-incidentally) into the equation.

Vikram Kushwah Photography

What was the inspiration behind your new book Memoirs of a Lost Time?

This book project was actually Trisha’s idea. She knows my work really well and we both draw inspiration from similar aspects – escapism, daydreams and so on. We all know what clothes designers make, what song musicians write, but we wanted to know more about the formative days of such creative individuals: the elements of childhood that ultimately inspire their work today. So we set about capturing the memories of their bygone days in our own dream-like style. They themselves feature in the photographs, though nothing too defined. We’ve left the images open-ended – just like dreams and fading memory – yet there’s a strong flavour to each story.

Each chapter takes you into the personal and never seen before world of our subjects, presenting photographs, a short story and an insightful interview. Each section weaves in and out of reality where you begin to drift into a realm of imaginative possibilities, yet always remaining attached to the facts that were. It’s a representation of not only what was, but also a very whimsical take on what could have been.

Vikram Kushwah Photography

What was it like working with Trisha Sakhlecha?

In a way it’s like working with myself. We share a common paradigm in terms of aesthetics. We’re the best of friends too, which always helps. We can rubbish each others’ ideas without hesitation and more importantly the process of storytelling and taking pictures doesn’t feel like work to us; it feels like we’re in a trance. We definitely compliment each other well: she’s the more organised one, whereas I can lift heavy things. It’s a balance.

What can we expect to see next from you?

Memoirs of Lost Time; it’s only half complete. There are some real surprises yet to come in the forthcoming chapters. We’re hoping to release the book mid-2012.
Oh and Vogue Italia are also interested! They’re publishing one of my photographs in their January 2012 issue, featuring London-based fashion designer Elizabeth Lau.

Exciting times lie ahead!

Vikram Kushwah Vogue Italia

Categories ,art, ,books, ,elizabeth lau, ,Estelle Morris, ,Freudian, ,Hairspray: The Musical, ,Hamlet, ,Himalayas, ,India, ,John Everett Millais, ,london, ,Memoirs of a lost Time, ,Ophelia, ,Pan’s Labyrinth, ,photography, ,Sarah Deane, ,Shakespeare, ,Surrealist Art, ,Trisha Sakhlecha, ,Vikram Kushwah, ,Vogue Italia

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Amelia’s Magazine | An interview with First Aid Kit about working with Mike Mogis on second album The Lion’s Roar

First Aid Kit by Michael Julings
First Aid Kit by Michael Julings.

The new album The Lion’s Roar from the wondrous Swedish band First Aid Kit is coming out later this month. In advance of my review, let’s catch up with the talented duo. Life has become much more busy in the past few years!

First Aid Kit Emmylou press shot
You’ve done 5 tours across America in the past 2 years, what has been the highlight?
All five tours have been highlights in their own ways. The first tour was especially exciting because everything was new and it felt like an adventure. We realized how big this country is, traveling through endless landscapes of of deserts, fields and forests. We sort of felt like we were on that epic american road-trip we’ve always dreamt of. Last September we went on tour with Bright Eyes, a dream come true for us. We got to spend two weeks with our favorite band. We went to Disney World, we went swimming in the ocean and sightseeing in D.C. We had plenty of free time and the weather was amazing. It was the perfect tour. Bright Eyes treated us so well, too. Every night was a party. Every night we played songs together. Mike Mogis played pedal steel on our song Emmylou, we sang Lua with Conor and two nights our dad even played the guitar solo in their song “One for you, one for me”! We couldn’t have imagined our own dad playing with Bright Eyes someday. We were very proud.

First-aid-kit-the-lions-roar-packshot
Your new album The Lion’s Roar is out soon and was recorded in Omaha, Nebraska with producer Mike Mogis – how did that come about, how long were you there for and how easy was it to slot into working with a big American producer?
When I (Klara) was twelve years old I heard Bright Eyes for the first time. I loved the simplicity and honesty in their songs. Their music was a revelation for me. It opened up the door for us to folk and country music. I got a guitar pretty quickly after that. Inspired by Bright Eyes I started writing songs. We met Mike for the first time when we played in Austin, TX in october. Conor Oberst came to our show, and introduced us to Mike. He saw us the next day at the Austin City Limits festival and after we had played he wrote us saying; ‘I’d love to make a record with you.’ We couldn’t believe it.

First Aid Kit by Rosemary Cunningham
First Aid Kit by Rosemary Cunningham.

In May we went to Omaha, Nebraska to record the album. We stayed for a month, spending the first two weeks doing mostly live takes and then the rest of the two mixing the record. Working with a big American producer could be scary depending on who you work with, but Mike might be one of the most humble persons we have ever met. We understood each other from the get-go and we were on the same page musically. He knew what kind of record we wanted to make. Mike made sure that our vocals and lyrics always were the focal point. We worked together to find arrangements that would enhance the emotions we wanted to evoke, and not to just take up space. It was a fun and surprisingly easy process. 

First Aid Kit on log
What has been the most memorable place that you have visited on tour (worldwide) and why?
We were in Tokyo just a couple of weeks ago and that was memorable to say the least. The culture is so vastly different. We felt a bit alienated and different (mostly just very tall), but it was an interesting feeling we’re not used to. The Japanese were incredibly polite. When we stepped into our label’s office everybody there came to meet us and bowed in-front of us. It made you feel respected and made us treat everyone with the same respect. We did 22 interviews in two days so we were quite busy, but they took care of us well. We would love to go back to Japan and play shows there someday soon.

First Aid Kit by Sam Parr
First Aid Kit by Sam Parr.

Have you managed to retain contact with your friends back home in Sweden or do you feel your lives have diverged drastically? How much do you rely on a close sisterly relationship?
Luckily we have friends who understand why we have to be away so much and who are supportive of what we do. Of course it’s hard sometimes, not being able to be there for the people you love, but that’s a sacrifice we have to make. Having your sister around you is quite special. It always makes us feel like we’re home, having each other around. Our dad does the sound our shows, so he comes with us too. That keeps us from becoming too homesick. At the end of the day we get to do what we love the most, which is playing music, so we can’t really complain.

First_aid_kit_by_Geiko_Louve
First Aid Kit by Geiko Louve.

Do you remember the first time you sang in harmony, when was it? It must be incredible to have such a strong connection with someone you grew up with.
It was probably on one of our first demos, Johanna just tried out some harmonies and it sounded great. We have evolved a lot from back then though. We’re getting better and better at harmonizing everyday. Singing with your sister is awesome. Our voices are so similar it’s almost like singing with yourself. It’s easy. We’re so in tune with how we phrase and time words, so it always feels very natural. Singing with a non-relative is more of a challenge. You have to adjust to their way of singing and ‘get’ their voice. It’s not the same thing.

First Aid Kit forest
You recorded the cover single Universal Soldier with Jack White in Nashville and you have just toured with Lykke Li. How did these come about and who else would you like to work with?
We have no idea of how these cool cats heard of us, we’re just very lucky that they did. Lykke Li had asked us a couple of times to play and last november we finally got to play together. It was amazing to see her powerful performance on stage every night.

First Aid Kit_Emmylou_PS
When we were on our second tour in the US, playing in Nashville Jack White called to say he wanted us to come into his studio and record two songs with him. Totally unexpected. We spent a couple of hours there the next day. It was the first time we ever recorded in a real studio with a full band. We love what we recorded, especially the traditional blues song It Hurts Me Too. Jack White brought out something new in us we didn’t know we had. It definitely has a Jack White sound but it’s still very much us. It inspired us to have a full band on the new record. We’d love to do something more with Jack White someday, it was really inspiring working with him and we both share a love for old Americana. We would also love to collaborate with Laura Marling or Dylan Leblanc, two amazing songwriters and singers in our age who are making similar music.

First Aid Kit by Wiji Lacsamana
First Aid Kit by Wiji Lacsamana.

Your voices and musical knowledge have been widening, who or what has been the greatest influence in the past two years and do you have your sights set on any other genres and styles?
The past two years, while writing for this new record there are two people that specifically come to mind when talking about inspiration – Townes Van Zandt and Joni Mitchell. Townes Van Zandt has a way of writing songs that seem timeless. His songs are often tall tales, mystical but at the same time serene and simple. His phrasing is really specific and it gives the lyrics another dimension. Writing for the record, these were all things that influenced us, both things we were aware of and things we’ve heard, listening back to the record, now.

First Aid Kit_portrait
We got a little Joni obsessed when working on this record. Her lyrics are often like private diary entries, if everybody wrote amazingly poetic and clever diary entires, that is. There is something so honest, it almost hurts to listen to her music sometimes. For The Lion’s Roar, we knew we wanted to write songs that had a more personal touch. We wrote more about our own experiences and things we were going through. A lot of people write that our lyrics are ‘too mature‘ for our age, which is so absurd to us. We just write what we feel, we’ve never had any intention to sound older or more mature, we’re just ourselves in our music. We’re actually not very mature at all, haha.

You have said that you prefer to sing sad songs: why do you think this is?
It’s not really a preference, it just that we happen to write songs when we’re sad. Songwriting for us is a form of therapy, of catharsis. It’s a way of turning the negative thoughts in our head into something positive and creative. When we’re feeling like shit we listen to melancholy music, because knowing that someone else has felt the same way or even worse makes us feel less alone in these emotions. It’s strangely comforting. Hopefully our music could have a similar kind of effect for our listeners. Like a plaster for the soul.

YouTube Preview ImageEmmylou

What was the story behind the video for the new single Emmylou? It has a glorious outback feel that goes with the country twang.
Thank you! The song Emmylou is a homage to our favourite country acts – Emmylou Harris, Gram Parsons, Johnny Cash and June Carter. It seemed perfect to go to Joshua Tree because we knew it was Gram Parsons‘ favourite place in the world. When we got there we understood why. We’ve also always been intrigued by the desert and had always wanted to make something in that kind of landscape, so now we got the chance. We worked with an amazing director called Maximilla Lukacs. We wanted it to have a 70′s psychedelic dreamy feel to it. She and her team totally got our vision. 

YouTube Preview ImageThe Lion’s Roar

Where can people see you live in the UK over 2012? Any particular dates or festivals that you are looking forward to?
We’ll be playing a few club shows in February. We can’t wait to play the new songs! We’ll also play the End of The Road Festival this year, which we’re totally psyched about. We love that festival. We played there 2009 and it had an incredible folk-oriented line-up. We saw Alela Diane, Blitzen Trapper, Tallest Man On Earth and FleetFoxes. In other words, our favourite bands. Good times! 

First Aid Kit by Estelle Morris
First Aid Kit by Estelle Morris.

Lastly, since we last met I have discovered that your dad used to play in a band with my mum’s Swedish first cousin, Matts Alsberg. It’s a small world, do you remember him?
Oh my god! That’s so weird, haha. It’s a tiny world, indeed. Of course we remember him, our dad’s band was a big part of our childhood. They were called Lolita Pop and were quite successful in Sweden during the 80′s. Their music was not like ours at all. It was punk and new wave inspired by Velvet Underground, Patti Smith and Television. Our dad was a guitarist and songwriter in the band. He quit the band just when we were born. Their music and tales from their tours were always around us growing up. I think we looked up to our father a lot and the fact that he had been a professional musician inspired us to take a similar path. Now dad’s working with us full time and it’s great having someone with so much previous experience on the road with us. He probably never thought he’d be touring all over the world with his daughters.

The Lion’s Roar is released on 23rd January on Wichita. *You can read my full album review here.*

Categories ,Alela Diane, ,Austin City Limits, ,Blitzen Trapper, ,Bright Eyes, ,Conor Oberst, ,Dylan LeBlanc, ,Emmylou Harris, ,End Of The Road Festival, ,Estelle Morris, ,First Aid Kit, ,fleetfoxes, ,Geiko Louve, ,Gram Parsons, ,It Hurts Me Too, ,Jack White, ,Johnny Cash, ,Joni Mitchell, ,Joshua Tree, ,June Carter, ,Laura Marling, ,Lolita Pop, ,Lykke Li, ,Matts Alsberg, ,Maximilla Lukacs, ,Michael Julings, ,Mike Mogis, ,Nebraska, ,Omaha, ,Rosemary Cunningham, ,Sam Parr, ,Tallest Man On Earth, ,Townes van Zandt, ,Wichita, ,Wiji Lacsamana

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