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Amelia’s Magazine | Rejina Pyo AW15: London Fashion Week Catwalk Review

Rejina Pyo AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 5
Rejina Pyo chose an off schedule venue with intense wood panelling, the sense of intrigue heightened with rocks strewn about the darkened room. The same organic shapes were echoed in glittery foil prints on a selection of beautifully tailored jackets, 60s inspired skirt suits and drainpipe trousers. Cute day dresses were woven with strips of golden fabric, gold went all over in a stunning velvety denim cut suit, and dramatic sheers brought a touch of evening glamour for the more daring.

Rejina Pyo AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 6

All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Thursday February 26th, 2015 11:15 pm

Categories ,A/W 2015, ,AW15, ,catwalk, ,London Fashion Week, ,Rejina Pyo, ,review, ,Show report

Amelia’s Magazine | MOSCHINO: London Collections: Men S/S 2015 Catwalk Review

Moschino S/S 2015 by Krister Selin

Moschino was the hottest ticket during London Collections: Men, and the 300-strong queue outside Lindley Hall was testament to that. Inside, the wall had been branded with a huge Moschino decal; cameras whirled above our heads on enormous tripods. The noise was deafening. Everybody seemed a bit sexier and they all had Moschino french fries iPhone cases.

My naivety, and inability to attend fashion weeks other than London-based ones, meant that I felt like I had been transported to a Versace show in Milan in the 1990s. My absolute favourite kind of fashion is trashy Italian fashion – the style of unashamed glamour that the Italians do so well, introduced in the 1980s and infamous in the 1990s. It brought us supermodels, leather chaps on the runway and more ghetto gold than you can shake a stick at. So when I found out that Moschino were to show at London Collections: Men, in our great city for the first time, I knew I’d bend over backwards to get in. Luckily I didn’t have to do that.

Moschino S/S 2015 by Krister Selin

Nobody seemed to be getting in from outside, and as I stood next to a woman dressed head-to-toe in that ridiculous, brilliant McDonald’s inspired ensemble, I envisaged a mass scrum and hours of waiting. I was surprised the show began a mere 20 minutes late. What happened after this is a bit of a blur, the atmosphere was so electric that I think I may have blacked out from excitement at one point.

All photography by Matt Bramford

Dishy models that must have been shipped in from Italy, or perhaps paradise, strode out to the sounds of a 1990s playlist. The first section turned soft drinks and pop culture into suits, t-shirts and swimwear. Then came brightly coloured tops, sweatshirts and bikinis emblazoned with enormous Moschino type.

Chanel 2.55 knock offs with gold Moschino letters replacing the interlocking C’s eveloped one model (above), one of my favourite looks from this show.

Next, on the World Cup bandwagon and a 1990s tip, models wore prints that were happy hardcore smiley faces featuring international flags. More 90s ephemera came in the form of oversized sweatshirts, nylon bomber jackets and black mesh pieces, with a yellow tailcoat tuxedo thrown in for good measure, naturally.

Then came a sort of homage to a range of luxury fashion houses – a mock Louis Vuitton monogram print appeared on jackets and trousers, the LVs replaced with serif Ms. A ‘Fauxchino‘ motif, added to my wishlist, looked so trashy that it could have been bought from a seaside market.

Want to dress like an Hermès carrier bag? Well now you can with Moschino‘s bright orange denim jacket and jeans with black Moschino logo strips. If Hermès isn’t your bag, perhaps a Versace-esque black and gold suit will suffice?

Rhinestone dollar signs and logo sweaters completed this collection:

I love the shocking, shameless abuse of other designer brands to glorious end. That’s a somewhat difficult sentence to type amidst outrageous alleged cases of high street copycats and even fashion powerhouses ripping off London designers, but Jeremy Scott and the label pull off the plagiarism with such panache that nobody seems to bat an eyelid. This blatant disregard for intellectual property has been at the heart of the brand since Franco Moschino launched his eponymous label in 1983. And, if this collection is anything to go by, Scott is without doubt the best person to take the Moschino crown. I’m praying he brings his army of merry men and women back next year.

Written by Matt Bramford on Friday June 27th, 2014 11:18 am

Categories ,1990s, ,catwalk, ,fashion, ,Gucci, ,Hermés, ,Italian, ,Jeremy Scott, ,LCM, ,LCMSS2015, ,Lindley Hall, ,London Collections Men, ,Louis Vuitton, ,menswear, ,Monogram, ,Moschino, ,pop culture, ,review, ,SS15, ,Swimwear, ,Versace, ,Womenswear

Amelia’s Magazine | Myrza de Muynck: London Fashion Week A/W 2012 Catwalk Review

Myrza de Muynck A/W 2012 by Faye West.

Myrza de Muynck is a Dutch designer showing for the first time as part of Fashion Scout’s Ones to Watch. She graduated from Central Saint Martins this year and her focus is on combining luxury embellishments with a youthful sports inspired silhouette – using lots of handpainted prints, embroidery and an 80s-esque pastel palette.

Ones to Watch Myrza de Muynck AW 2012 photo by Amelia Gregory

Myrza de Muynck A/W 2012 by Faye West.

Stomping down the catwalk, ponytails swinging, girls wore minty tracksuit combos, scallop edged puff collared cardigans and loosely knitted leggings. Lightweight cream zippered jackets and skinny shorts might not be everyone’s winter taste, but when paired with bursts of pillar box red or black I can see how they would work for a certain brave kind of woman.

Ones to Watch Myrza de Muynck AW 2012 photo by Amelia Gregory

Myrza de Muynck AW 2012 by Rebecca Strickson
Myrza de Muynck A/W 2012 by Rebecca Strickson.

<a target="_blank" href="http://www.vimeo.com/36982582" rel="noopener">http://www.vimeo.com/36982582</a>

Written by Amelia Gregory on Wednesday February 22nd, 2012 3:25 pm

Categories ,A/W 2012, ,catwalk, ,Central Saint Martins, ,embroidery, ,Fashion Scout, ,Faye West, ,lfw, ,Luxe, ,Myrza de Muynck, ,Ones To Watch, ,pastels, ,Rebecca Strickson, ,review, ,sportswear

Amelia’s Magazine | Northumbria University: Graduate Fashion Week 2012 Catwalk Review Part 1

Graduate collection by Emily Edge

It will be ten whole years in September since I started university at Northumbria University in Newcastle. Gulp. However old I may feel, I’m still incredibly attached to Northumbria and I’d never, ever say anything negative about their talent – not that there is ever anything negative to say (and I’m not just saying that, know what I’m saying). Yet again they didn’t fail to dazzle with their wondrous collections. I chatted with Chris Hodge, senior lecturer at Northumbria, who told me I was in for a surprise and that more than half of the collections this year represented menswear. When I asked why, he said there’d been a shift in interest towards menswear; maybe that it was a more career-viable option, and that teaching had focussed on cut, texture and material.

I took my seat and as I reviewed the show notes an over-enthusiastic student came jogging by me, tripping over my camera case and going arse-over-tit right in front of the photographer’s pit. It was both hysterical and extremely worrying – it was an ambulance-chasing CLAIMS4U-style nightmare and I buried my head into the handouts hoping that the girl was okay. She was.

Anyway, as I plot my asylum elsewhere, here’s a rundown of Northumbria’s best talent:

Emily Edge

Graduate collection by Emily Edge

Emily opened the show with her astonishing menswear collection and Chris’ comments immediately made sense. Rich yellow jackets were teamed with digital print tailored shirts, which also appeared on a blazer and trousers. With emphasis on the aesthetic properties of materials and sharp cuts, I wondered how anybody was going to match such a strong start. I’ve since learned that Emily’s been shortlisted for the Gala show (this evening) and I wouldn’t be surprised if she doesn’t scoop the award for menswear.

All photography by Matt Bramford

Oliver Moores

Oliver Moores followed with more exemplary tailoring. Exaggerated lengths, contrasting colours and luxurious materials made for a well produced collection.

Felicity Bradshaw

Felcity placed her emphasis on the silhouette, showing body conscious, sexy numbers alongside more shapely pieces. A cropped top with a light under it seemed a little out of place but provided interest, nonetheless.

Charlotte Sowerby

Charlotte’s collection drew inspiration from the angst-ridden youth sub-cultures of the past and, diversely, scrap yards. Creeping metal patterns were found at the base of shirts, and a rust-coloured coat stood out amongst her strong tailoring.

Rebecca Byers

Graduate collection by Rebecca Byers

Rebecca’s architectural collection of chunky knits and golden conceptual pieces was a delight. I have endured so many ‘fashion’ shows where the quality of the craftsmanship and the uniqueness of the designs don’t even come close to this.

Zoe Eastham

Graduate collection illustrated by Zoe Eastham

Zoe presented a sophisticated menswear collection, taking inspiration from aviation and, interestingly, folds created by origami. Cue aviator leathers, rich knitted sweaters and a light grey shirt with triangular darts running down the front that I’d rather like to get my hands on.

Kellie Fountain

Graduate collection by Kellie Fountain

Kellie also used aspects of aviation as inspiration, but with a whimsical, playful approach applied to womenswear. Bright, vintage-esque colours worked wonders on playful skirts and structured coats. Perspex aeroplanes added even more fun to this stand-out collection.

Chloe Horsfield

I adored Chloe’s take on 1990s hip-hop culture and her use of big and bold prints. Patchworks formed from pre-worn garments and vibrant knits had me clinging to my seat to avoid jumping onto the catwalk and stealing the lot.

Amelia Smith

Graduate collection by Amelia Smith

Amelia sought inspiration from the architecture in Moscow’s Red Square. Shapely frocks were decorated with intricate monochrome patterns and gold embellishments that mirrored each piece’s silhouette.

Written by Matt Bramford on Wednesday June 13th, 2012 9:12 am

Categories ,Amelia Smith, ,catwalk, ,Charlotte Sowerby, ,Chloe Horsfield, ,Chris Hodge, ,Earls Court Two, ,Emily Edge, ,fashion, ,Felicity Bradshaw, ,Graduate Fashion Week 2012, ,Kellie Fountain, ,knitwear, ,Matt Bramford, ,menswear, ,Newcastle, ,Northumbria University, ,Oliver Moors, ,Rebecca Byers, ,review, ,Sunday, ,textiles, ,Womenswear, ,Zoe Eastham

Amelia’s Magazine | Northumbria University: Graduate Fashion Week 2012 Catwalk Review Part 1

Graduate collection by Emily Edge

Anyway, as I plot my asylum elsewhere, here’s a rundown of Northumbria’s best talent:

Emily Edge

Graduate collection by Emily Edge

All photography by Matt Bramford

Oliver Moores

Oliver Moores followed with more exemplary tailoring. Exaggerated lengths, contrasting colours and luxurious materials made for a well produced collection.

Felicity Bradshaw

Charlotte Sowerby

Rebecca Byers

Graduate collection by Rebecca Byers

Zoe Eastham

Graduate collection illustrated by Zoe Eastham

Kellie Fountain

Graduate collection by Kellie Fountain

Chloe Horsfield

Amelia Smith

Graduate collection by Amelia Smith

Written by Matt Bramford on Wednesday June 13th, 2012 9:12 am

Amelia’s Magazine | Northumbria University: Graduate Fashion Week 2012 Catwalk Review Part 2

Gary Wilson by Janneke de Jong

Here’s our second round-up of Northumbria’s incredible fashion line-up this year. It just kept on coming…

Kathryn Iddon

All photography by Matt Bramford

Kathryn’s Urbane Modification collection was influenced by street cults of the 1960s and 1970s. Indefinitely wearable, it featured tapered trousers, luxurious wool coats and modern shirts with a vintage flavour.

Martin Percival

Martin, like a number of designers during Menswear Day in February, celebrated Captain Scott and was inspired by his adventurous endeavours. Heavy outerwear, made for survival, featured chunky knits. There were some suspect materials here – referring to the notes suggests fabrics were locally sourced – but that better not be real fur.

Katie Tomlinson

Graduate collection by Katie Tomlinson

I was already on Katie’s side when I glanced through the gorgeous graduate brochure before the show and noticed an ‘I heart Yorkshire’ motif, a statement I agree with wholeheartedly. Katie combined her Yorkshire roots with the works of sculptors Henry Moore and Barbara Hepworth – the result being architectural pieces with dramatic silhouettes and contrasting organic shapes, made from rich wools and cashmere. A mix of heritage colours and vivid brights also had me grinning.

Hannah Harrison

Graduate collection by Hannah Harrison

Hannah’s collection sends style blogger Susie Blogger on an imaginary journey around South-East Asia. To the sounds of Santogold’s Creator, this was a vibrant, exciting collection from start to finish and injected a riotous burst of colour and contrasting materials. Screen printing, foil, flock, procion dyes, digital prints, laser cutting – you name it, Hannah had thrown it at her designs: in the best possible way, of course.

Hannah Harrison by Janneke de Jong

Kamille Davis

I loved loved loved Kamille’s quirky menswear inspired by Scottish fisherman. This was smart tailoring in rich browns and blues with yellow accents – a modern version of the fisherman’s jacket being one of my favourites.

Jennifer Decarteret

Jennifer effortlessly combined smart tailoring with sportswear, transforming the grey marl tracksuit bottom (a staple of the chav) into hipper, wearable trousers. Dereliction of buildings influenced segments of distorted print that appeared on shirts and drawstring bottoms.

Katie Briggs

Katie’s collection carried gorgeous pastel colours and a cute 1970s vibe. Playful but serious, wearable but exciting – this was an extremely polished collection with fun jackets, bell-bottomed trousers and figure-hugging playsuits.

Ying Xu
Ying’s was the final menswear collection sought influence from codes of dress by royalty in both Great Britain and China. A pleated shirt dress, knits like armour and quilted jackets featured in rich colours and aesthetically appealing materials that contrasted.

Gary Wilson

Gary closed the show in futuristic style. Fembot-like models wearing bobbed wigs that covered the eyes slowly graced the catwalk in a slightly terrifying manner. Leather dresses clung to their bodies and featured high-contrast patent leather and gold zips. It was a wonderful ending to a glorious show.

Written by Matt Bramford on Wednesday June 13th, 2012 12:55 pm

Categories ,2012, ,catwalk, ,Earls Court, ,fashion, ,Gary Wilson, ,Graduate Fashion Week, ,Hannah Harrison, ,Janneke de Jong, ,Jennifer Decarteret, ,Kamille Davis, ,Kathryn Iddon, ,Katie Briggs, ,Katie Tomlinson, ,knitwear, ,Martin Percival, ,Matt Bramford, ,menswear, ,Northumbria University, ,review, ,Womenswear, ,Ying Xu

Amelia’s Magazine | Nova Chiu: London Fashion Week A/W 2013 Catwalk Review

Nova Chiu AW2013 by Gaarte
Nova Chiu A/W 2013 by Gaarte

The ethereal eruption of colour and texture at Nova Chiu was a perfect way to end a tiring first day at London Fashion Week.

Nova Chiu AW 2013 by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory

All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Following last season’s showcase of a light and predominantly print-based collection, the house of Nova Chiu brought the label back to it’s roots of heavy embroidery and embellishments for A/W 2013.

Nova Chiu AW 2013 by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory

Nova Chiu by Laura Hickman
Nova Chiu A/W 2013 by Laura Hickman

An immensely exciting colour palette was on display – a mix of piercing neons and rich earthy tones, much like ‘The Electronic Super Highway’ by Korean-American artist Nam June Paik, an evident inspiration to the collection. Eclectic blends of material were also used – coloured leather, suede and horsehair blocks with embroideries and beaded trims, giving a three dimensional depth to the clothes.

Nova Chiu AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory

Nova Chiu AW by Amelia Gregory

Nova Chiu by Shy Illustrations
Nova Chiu A/W 2013 by Shy Illustrations

The garments coming down the runway were beautiful and meticulously crafted, but I found myself distracted by how bright the set lights were; unfortunately this made all the models skin look patchy with caked on foundation. Lighting aside, design duo Nova Chiu and Jeff Archer impressed with a dynamic collection that featured designs true to the label’s initial aesthetics and that are wearable enough to sell.

Written by Alex Kessler on Saturday February 23rd, 2013 12:08 am

Categories ,A/W 2013, ,catwalk, ,collection, ,colour, ,fashion, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Gaarte, ,garments, ,illustration, ,Jeff Archer, ,Laura Hickman, ,london, ,London Fashion Week, ,Nam June Paik, ,Neon, ,Nova Chiu, ,runway, ,Shy Illustrations, ,Texture, ,The Electronic Super Highway

Amelia’s Magazine | Oliver Spencer: London Collections: Men S/S 2015 Catwalk Review

Oliver Spencer S/S 2015 by Fiongal Greenlaw

It seemed like every man in London had been squashed into the Old Sorting Office for the Oliver Spencer show last Monday. It was bloody packed. My standing ticket didn’t offer me any privileges, as per, so I did my best to position myself behind the shortest person I could find in the hope of seeing anything at all. The lights dimmed and out marched a drumming band who, with huge grins on their faces, energetically played a samba beat for the models to walk to.

All photography by Matt Bramford

Oliver Spencer S/S 2015 by Kate Sloan

Oliver Spencer‘s mantra is if it ain’t broke don’t fix it and this was another season of summery basics, smart tailoring and enticing prints. Cropped jackets were worn with longer t-shirts, featuring graphic designs. Rolled-up trouser legs revealed bare ankles.

Fitted blazers replicated the floral patterns of matching shirts, teamed with contrasting shorts and cravats. Boxy overcoats and suede jackets in ochre gave a 1970s feel; luxe blues and greens provided a modern counterbalance.

Oliver Spencer S/S 2015 by Fiongal Greenlaw

Oliver Spencer S/S 2015 by Kate Sloan

Soft linen jackets and shirts provided a welcome break from the more rigid tailored pieces and I longed to be wearing a loose, floaty Oliver Spencer tunic than the thick t-shirt and jacket that I’d opted for. Checked blazers in vibrant orange, nautical stripes and light knitwear came next, accessorised with retro shades, loafers and large luggage. Whilst not the most outlandish collection, it provided a vast range of wearable separates that would be difficult to get wrong in any combination.

For the finale, the drummers switched to a more uptempo tune as a busty carnival dancer led out the models; the final line-up featured a bevy of samba beauties. It was prime timing as World Cup fever sweeps the nation, but it felt a little forced; as the dancers rolled and twirled and cavorted with the crowd, the models looked a little stiff in comparison and I was left wondering if this was really the best gimmick. I’m hoping my rhinestone-encrusted bikini and feather head dress that I ordered shortly afterwards arrives in time for the World Cup final, though.

Written by Matt Bramford on Tuesday June 24th, 2014 9:08 am

Categories ,Carnival, ,catwalk, ,fashion, ,Fiongal Greenlaw, ,Kate Sloan, ,LCMSS2015, ,london, ,London Collections Men, ,Matt Bramford, ,menswear, ,Oliver Spencer, ,review, ,Rio, ,SS15

Amelia’s Magazine | Ong-Oaj Pairam: London Fashion Week S/S 2014 Catwalk Review

Ong-Oaj_Pairam_by_Novemto_komo
Ong-Oaj Pairam by Novemto Komo.

Having already done a preview interview with Brighton University graduate Ong-Oaj Pairam I was pretty excited to see more of his collection, which was inspired by Drew Barrymore in ET. But whilst the moon shaped invite may have promised great things in terms of reference the final outcome was not what I expected, by a long shot. Original inspiration be damned, this was a sweet collection of party dresses with a slight 80s vibe. Models wore their hair loosely curled and brushed to one side, shirt dresses were pulled in tight with skinny belts, and delicate lace butterflies bounced around on waists and hemlines. I particularly liked matching embroidery and print that appeared in spikes of red and blue across a twosie shorts suit and on both shirt and pencil dresses. Drew Barrymore may well have grown up to to be this well dressed, but this was not how I remember her back in the day.

Ong-Oaj Pairam SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Ong-Oaj Pairam S/S 2014. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

<a target="_blank" href="http://www.vimeo.com/74458346" rel="noopener">http://www.vimeo.com/74458346</a>

Written by Amelia Gregory on Saturday September 21st, 2013 11:14 am

Categories ,80s, ,Brighton University, ,catwalk, ,Drew Barrymore, ,ET, ,London Fashion Week, ,Novemto Komo, ,Ong-Oaj Pairam, ,review, ,S/S 2014

Amelia’s Magazine | Osman: London Fashion Week S/S 2013 Catwalk Review

Osman S/S 2013 by Krister Selin

And so it was to Osman to ‘close’ my fashion week, as it were. It was getting late on the Tuesday and, frankly, I couldn’t be arsed to trek to Somerset House. I had a heap of work to do and the thought of going all that way to watch models walk in front of me twice for five minutes was almost too much to bear. In the end, I decided to go, obviously; I’m so glad I did.

Osman S/S 2013 by Antonia Parker

I had a rubbish seat but enjoyed watching people skid on Kuoni-sponsored A3 Osman lookbooks as I waited for the show to start. The catwalk had been adorned with a huge black rope, crossing above the bit where the models come out and trailing up both sides of the catwalk. Osman‘s got a bit of a reputation for putting on a good show and I liked the drama that this backdrop was already creating. There was a lot of fuss on the catwalk before proceedings began – Corinne Bailey Rae was one of many guests that had photographers in a flash bulb frenzy. But it was Osman‘s unique and vibrant colour palette and fashion-forward sense of shape that would really get the crowd going.

All photography by Matt Bramford

Incredible hues of pink and blue appeared before us. Osman Yousefzada always has a crafted ability to whet our appetites for the next summer while the current one is slipping away from us. Strong and dynamic shape was this season’s key theme – angular cuts were aplenty. Kimono shapes with a modern twist were teamed with high-waisted shorts, followed by tailored coats that curved to reveal more short shorts.

Osman S/S 2013 by Krister Selin

The collection progressed with embroidered love heart patterns. The same bold silhouettes were decorated with this beautiful design, having a slightly religious effect on certain dramatic overcoats. Brightly coloured hearts brought black garments to life while complimenting the blue and pink numbers.

More drama came later with Osman‘s unique forms: scooping necklines, wide sleeves, geometric patterns on tops, thick strips of fabric wrapped around models’ shoulders like shawls, sexily revealing only the collarbone.

Osman S/S 2013 by Antonia Parker

Less rigid looks followed with flowing skirts and fabric casually slung around models’ necks, but never without a hint of structure – tapered and cropped trousers defining many looks.

A few all black numbers heightened the drama towards the end – I particularly liked an all-in-one cape worn like a hood over skin-tight shiny trousers and a racy dress cut all the way up to the hip with bondage-like corsetry.

My favourite look was the penultimate outfit consisting of a white upper half with fabric draped all the way to the floor, following the model as she swaggered. It had all the qualities of Osman exuberance – femininity, drama and masses of sex appeal. I bet Osman fans new and old can’t bloody wait to get this stuff on come next year.

Written by Matt Bramford on Wednesday September 26th, 2012 10:16 am

Categories ,Antonia Parker, ,BFC, ,Blue, ,Bondage, ,catwalk, ,colour, ,Corinne Bailey Rae, ,embroidery, ,hearts, ,Krister Selin, ,Kuoni, ,London Fashion Week, ,Matt Bramford, ,Osman Yousefzada, ,pink, ,review, ,S/S 2013, ,Somerset House, ,SS13, ,Tuesday, ,Womenswear

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