Amelia’s Magazine | Oliver Spencer: London Collections: Men S/S 2015 Catwalk Review

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Oliver Spencer S/S 2015 by Fiongal Greenlaw

It seemed like every man in London had been squashed into the Old Sorting Office for the Oliver Spencer show last Monday. It was bloody packed. My standing ticket didn’t offer me any privileges, as per, so I did my best to position myself behind the shortest person I could find in the hope of seeing anything at all. The lights dimmed and out marched a drumming band who, with huge grins on their faces, energetically played a samba beat for the models to walk to.

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All photography by Matt Bramford

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Oliver Spencer S/S 2015 by Kate Sloan

Oliver Spencer‘s mantra is if it ain’t broke don’t fix it and this was another season of summery basics, smart tailoring and enticing prints. Cropped jackets were worn with longer t-shirts, featuring graphic designs. Rolled-up trouser legs revealed bare ankles.

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Fitted blazers replicated the floral patterns of matching shirts, teamed with contrasting shorts and cravats. Boxy overcoats and suede jackets in ochre gave a 1970s feel; luxe blues and greens provided a modern counterbalance.

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Oliver Spencer S/S 2015 by Fiongal Greenlaw

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Oliver Spencer S/S 2015 by Kate Sloan

Soft linen jackets and shirts provided a welcome break from the more rigid tailored pieces and I longed to be wearing a loose, floaty Oliver Spencer tunic than the thick t-shirt and jacket that I’d opted for. Checked blazers in vibrant orange, nautical stripes and light knitwear came next, accessorised with retro shades, loafers and large luggage. Whilst not the most outlandish collection, it provided a vast range of wearable separates that would be difficult to get wrong in any combination.

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For the finale, the drummers switched to a more uptempo tune as a busty carnival dancer led out the models; the final line-up featured a bevy of samba beauties. It was prime timing as World Cup fever sweeps the nation, but it felt a little forced; as the dancers rolled and twirled and cavorted with the crowd, the models looked a little stiff in comparison and I was left wondering if this was really the best gimmick. I’m hoping my rhinestone-encrusted bikini and feather head dress that I ordered shortly afterwards arrives in time for the World Cup final, though.

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Categories ,Carnival, ,catwalk, ,fashion, ,Fiongal Greenlaw, ,Kate Sloan, ,LCMSS2015, ,london, ,London Collections Men, ,Matt Bramford, ,menswear, ,Oliver Spencer, ,review, ,Rio, ,SS15

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Amelia’s Magazine | KTZ: London Collections: Men S/S 2015 Catwalk Review

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KTZ S/S 2015 by Krister Selin

It was at 9am when I rolled up at the Old Sorting Office for my first show of this season: KTZ. After a few too many Tequila-based cocktails at the Agi & Sam party the night before, I wasn’t in the best of states, but I was pleased (for myself, not for KTZ) to find that the venue wasn’t heaving. A raised standing area occupied one corner of the space and I was pleased that the organisers of London Collections: Men had finally given some thought to this issue.

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KTZ S/S 2015 by Fiongal Greenlaw

Kenny Larkin‘s Drama remix of La Fleur’s Nightflow began pumping through the sound system, reawakening the remains of the previous night’s alcohol binge. I quickly found myself in the mood for what was about to be KTZ‘s best outing yet.

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All photography by Matt Bramford

Inspiration this season came from Greek Hekatontarchs perfectly married with, as always, elements of street wear and hip hop culture. Pieces seemed infinitely more wearable this time, too – when you remove the sculpted torsos and headline-grabbing headwear. The opening section stayed true with the brand’s monochrome philosophy, starring oversized tops, pleated skirts, translucent shirts revealing bare torsos and basketball shorts. All of the above featured KTZ‘s staple ambiguous patterns; I noticed lightning bolts and elements of Greek architecture hidden amongst these ostentatious designs.

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The latter section introduced a vibrant orange to the rest of the looks. Enveloping jackets, baseball caps, bombers with multiple pockets and tassels and towelling shorts were all highlights as the tangerine warriors drew cheers from the cavalry of KTZ fans inside.

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The final pieces involved plastic weaves and tessellating plastic shapes: modern day armour for the modern day fashion fan. It was an incredible mix of historical references and contemporary styling and set a very high precedent for the next couple of days.

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Categories ,catwalk, ,fashion, ,Fiongal Greenlaw, ,Greece, ,Krister Selin, ,KTZ, ,LCM, ,LCMSS2015, ,London Collections Men, ,Matt Bramford, ,menswear, ,Old Sorting Office, ,review, ,SS15, ,Tequila

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