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Amelia’s Magazine | MOSCHINO: London Collections: Men S/S 2015 Catwalk Review

Moschino S/S 2015 by Krister Selin

Moschino was the hottest ticket during London Collections: Men, and the 300-strong queue outside Lindley Hall was testament to that. Inside, the wall had been branded with a huge Moschino decal; cameras whirled above our heads on enormous tripods. The noise was deafening. Everybody seemed a bit sexier and they all had Moschino french fries iPhone cases.

My naivety, and inability to attend fashion weeks other than London-based ones, meant that I felt like I had been transported to a Versace show in Milan in the 1990s. My absolute favourite kind of fashion is trashy Italian fashion – the style of unashamed glamour that the Italians do so well, introduced in the 1980s and infamous in the 1990s. It brought us supermodels, leather chaps on the runway and more ghetto gold than you can shake a stick at. So when I found out that Moschino were to show at London Collections: Men, in our great city for the first time, I knew I’d bend over backwards to get in. Luckily I didn’t have to do that.

Moschino S/S 2015 by Krister Selin

Nobody seemed to be getting in from outside, and as I stood next to a woman dressed head-to-toe in that ridiculous, brilliant McDonald’s inspired ensemble, I envisaged a mass scrum and hours of waiting. I was surprised the show began a mere 20 minutes late. What happened after this is a bit of a blur, the atmosphere was so electric that I think I may have blacked out from excitement at one point.

All photography by Matt Bramford

Dishy models that must have been shipped in from Italy, or perhaps paradise, strode out to the sounds of a 1990s playlist. The first section turned soft drinks and pop culture into suits, t-shirts and swimwear. Then came brightly coloured tops, sweatshirts and bikinis emblazoned with enormous Moschino type.

Chanel 2.55 knock offs with gold Moschino letters replacing the interlocking C’s eveloped one model (above), one of my favourite looks from this show.

Next, on the World Cup bandwagon and a 1990s tip, models wore prints that were happy hardcore smiley faces featuring international flags. More 90s ephemera came in the form of oversized sweatshirts, nylon bomber jackets and black mesh pieces, with a yellow tailcoat tuxedo thrown in for good measure, naturally.

Then came a sort of homage to a range of luxury fashion houses – a mock Louis Vuitton monogram print appeared on jackets and trousers, the LVs replaced with serif Ms. A ‘Fauxchino‘ motif, added to my wishlist, looked so trashy that it could have been bought from a seaside market.

Want to dress like an Hermès carrier bag? Well now you can with Moschino‘s bright orange denim jacket and jeans with black Moschino logo strips. If Hermès isn’t your bag, perhaps a Versace-esque black and gold suit will suffice?

Rhinestone dollar signs and logo sweaters completed this collection:

I love the shocking, shameless abuse of other designer brands to glorious end. That’s a somewhat difficult sentence to type amidst outrageous alleged cases of high street copycats and even fashion powerhouses ripping off London designers, but Jeremy Scott and the label pull off the plagiarism with such panache that nobody seems to bat an eyelid. This blatant disregard for intellectual property has been at the heart of the brand since Franco Moschino launched his eponymous label in 1983. And, if this collection is anything to go by, Scott is without doubt the best person to take the Moschino crown. I’m praying he brings his army of merry men and women back next year.

Written by Matt Bramford on Friday June 27th, 2014 11:18 am

Categories ,1990s, ,catwalk, ,fashion, ,Gucci, ,Hermés, ,Italian, ,Jeremy Scott, ,LCM, ,LCMSS2015, ,Lindley Hall, ,London Collections Men, ,Louis Vuitton, ,menswear, ,Monogram, ,Moschino, ,pop culture, ,review, ,SS15, ,Swimwear, ,Versace, ,Womenswear

Amelia’s Magazine | Myrza de Muynck: London Fashion Week A/W 2012 Catwalk Review

Myrza de Muynck A/W 2012 by Faye West.

Myrza de Muynck is a Dutch designer showing for the first time as part of Fashion Scout’s Ones to Watch. She graduated from Central Saint Martins this year and her focus is on combining luxury embellishments with a youthful sports inspired silhouette – using lots of handpainted prints, embroidery and an 80s-esque pastel palette.

Ones to Watch Myrza de Muynck AW 2012 photo by Amelia Gregory

Myrza de Muynck A/W 2012 by Faye West.

Stomping down the catwalk, ponytails swinging, girls wore minty tracksuit combos, scallop edged puff collared cardigans and loosely knitted leggings. Lightweight cream zippered jackets and skinny shorts might not be everyone’s winter taste, but when paired with bursts of pillar box red or black I can see how they would work for a certain brave kind of woman.

Ones to Watch Myrza de Muynck AW 2012 photo by Amelia Gregory

Myrza de Muynck AW 2012 by Rebecca Strickson
Myrza de Muynck A/W 2012 by Rebecca Strickson.

<a target="_blank" href="http://www.vimeo.com/36982582" rel="noopener">http://www.vimeo.com/36982582</a>

Written by Amelia Gregory on Wednesday February 22nd, 2012 3:25 pm

Categories ,A/W 2012, ,catwalk, ,Central Saint Martins, ,embroidery, ,Fashion Scout, ,Faye West, ,lfw, ,Luxe, ,Myrza de Muynck, ,Ones To Watch, ,pastels, ,Rebecca Strickson, ,review, ,sportswear

Amelia’s Magazine | Northumbria University: Graduate Fashion Week 2012 Catwalk Review Part 1

Graduate collection by Emily Edge

It will be ten whole years in September since I started university at Northumbria University in Newcastle. Gulp. However old I may feel, I’m still incredibly attached to Northumbria and I’d never, ever say anything negative about their talent – not that there is ever anything negative to say (and I’m not just saying that, know what I’m saying). Yet again they didn’t fail to dazzle with their wondrous collections. I chatted with Chris Hodge, senior lecturer at Northumbria, who told me I was in for a surprise and that more than half of the collections this year represented menswear. When I asked why, he said there’d been a shift in interest towards menswear; maybe that it was a more career-viable option, and that teaching had focussed on cut, texture and material.

I took my seat and as I reviewed the show notes an over-enthusiastic student came jogging by me, tripping over my camera case and going arse-over-tit right in front of the photographer’s pit. It was both hysterical and extremely worrying – it was an ambulance-chasing CLAIMS4U-style nightmare and I buried my head into the handouts hoping that the girl was okay. She was.

Anyway, as I plot my asylum elsewhere, here’s a rundown of Northumbria’s best talent:

Emily Edge

Graduate collection by Emily Edge

Emily opened the show with her astonishing menswear collection and Chris’ comments immediately made sense. Rich yellow jackets were teamed with digital print tailored shirts, which also appeared on a blazer and trousers. With emphasis on the aesthetic properties of materials and sharp cuts, I wondered how anybody was going to match such a strong start. I’ve since learned that Emily’s been shortlisted for the Gala show (this evening) and I wouldn’t be surprised if she doesn’t scoop the award for menswear.

All photography by Matt Bramford

Oliver Moores

Oliver Moores followed with more exemplary tailoring. Exaggerated lengths, contrasting colours and luxurious materials made for a well produced collection.

Felicity Bradshaw

Felcity placed her emphasis on the silhouette, showing body conscious, sexy numbers alongside more shapely pieces. A cropped top with a light under it seemed a little out of place but provided interest, nonetheless.

Charlotte Sowerby

Charlotte’s collection drew inspiration from the angst-ridden youth sub-cultures of the past and, diversely, scrap yards. Creeping metal patterns were found at the base of shirts, and a rust-coloured coat stood out amongst her strong tailoring.

Rebecca Byers

Graduate collection by Rebecca Byers

Rebecca’s architectural collection of chunky knits and golden conceptual pieces was a delight. I have endured so many ‘fashion’ shows where the quality of the craftsmanship and the uniqueness of the designs don’t even come close to this.

Zoe Eastham

Graduate collection illustrated by Zoe Eastham

Zoe presented a sophisticated menswear collection, taking inspiration from aviation and, interestingly, folds created by origami. Cue aviator leathers, rich knitted sweaters and a light grey shirt with triangular darts running down the front that I’d rather like to get my hands on.

Kellie Fountain

Graduate collection by Kellie Fountain

Kellie also used aspects of aviation as inspiration, but with a whimsical, playful approach applied to womenswear. Bright, vintage-esque colours worked wonders on playful skirts and structured coats. Perspex aeroplanes added even more fun to this stand-out collection.

Chloe Horsfield

I adored Chloe’s take on 1990s hip-hop culture and her use of big and bold prints. Patchworks formed from pre-worn garments and vibrant knits had me clinging to my seat to avoid jumping onto the catwalk and stealing the lot.

Amelia Smith

Graduate collection by Amelia Smith

Amelia sought inspiration from the architecture in Moscow’s Red Square. Shapely frocks were decorated with intricate monochrome patterns and gold embellishments that mirrored each piece’s silhouette.

Written by Matt Bramford on Wednesday June 13th, 2012 9:12 am

Categories ,Amelia Smith, ,catwalk, ,Charlotte Sowerby, ,Chloe Horsfield, ,Chris Hodge, ,Earls Court Two, ,Emily Edge, ,fashion, ,Felicity Bradshaw, ,Graduate Fashion Week 2012, ,Kellie Fountain, ,knitwear, ,Matt Bramford, ,menswear, ,Newcastle, ,Northumbria University, ,Oliver Moors, ,Rebecca Byers, ,review, ,Sunday, ,textiles, ,Womenswear, ,Zoe Eastham

Amelia’s Magazine | Northumbria University: Graduate Fashion Week 2012 Catwalk Review Part 1

Graduate collection by Emily Edge

Anyway, as I plot my asylum elsewhere, here’s a rundown of Northumbria’s best talent:

Emily Edge

Graduate collection by Emily Edge

All photography by Matt Bramford

Oliver Moores

Oliver Moores followed with more exemplary tailoring. Exaggerated lengths, contrasting colours and luxurious materials made for a well produced collection.

Felicity Bradshaw

Charlotte Sowerby

Rebecca Byers

Graduate collection by Rebecca Byers

Zoe Eastham

Graduate collection illustrated by Zoe Eastham

Kellie Fountain

Graduate collection by Kellie Fountain

Chloe Horsfield

Amelia Smith

Graduate collection by Amelia Smith

Written by Matt Bramford on Wednesday June 13th, 2012 9:12 am

Amelia’s Magazine | Northumbria University: Graduate Fashion Week 2012 Catwalk Review Part 2

Gary Wilson by Janneke de Jong

Here’s our second round-up of Northumbria’s incredible fashion line-up this year. It just kept on coming…

Kathryn Iddon

All photography by Matt Bramford

Kathryn’s Urbane Modification collection was influenced by street cults of the 1960s and 1970s. Indefinitely wearable, it featured tapered trousers, luxurious wool coats and modern shirts with a vintage flavour.

Martin Percival

Martin, like a number of designers during Menswear Day in February, celebrated Captain Scott and was inspired by his adventurous endeavours. Heavy outerwear, made for survival, featured chunky knits. There were some suspect materials here – referring to the notes suggests fabrics were locally sourced – but that better not be real fur.

Katie Tomlinson

Graduate collection by Katie Tomlinson

I was already on Katie’s side when I glanced through the gorgeous graduate brochure before the show and noticed an ‘I heart Yorkshire’ motif, a statement I agree with wholeheartedly. Katie combined her Yorkshire roots with the works of sculptors Henry Moore and Barbara Hepworth – the result being architectural pieces with dramatic silhouettes and contrasting organic shapes, made from rich wools and cashmere. A mix of heritage colours and vivid brights also had me grinning.

Hannah Harrison

Graduate collection by Hannah Harrison

Hannah’s collection sends style blogger Susie Blogger on an imaginary journey around South-East Asia. To the sounds of Santogold’s Creator, this was a vibrant, exciting collection from start to finish and injected a riotous burst of colour and contrasting materials. Screen printing, foil, flock, procion dyes, digital prints, laser cutting – you name it, Hannah had thrown it at her designs: in the best possible way, of course.

Hannah Harrison by Janneke de Jong

Kamille Davis

I loved loved loved Kamille’s quirky menswear inspired by Scottish fisherman. This was smart tailoring in rich browns and blues with yellow accents – a modern version of the fisherman’s jacket being one of my favourites.

Jennifer Decarteret

Jennifer effortlessly combined smart tailoring with sportswear, transforming the grey marl tracksuit bottom (a staple of the chav) into hipper, wearable trousers. Dereliction of buildings influenced segments of distorted print that appeared on shirts and drawstring bottoms.

Katie Briggs

Katie’s collection carried gorgeous pastel colours and a cute 1970s vibe. Playful but serious, wearable but exciting – this was an extremely polished collection with fun jackets, bell-bottomed trousers and figure-hugging playsuits.

Ying Xu
Ying’s was the final menswear collection sought influence from codes of dress by royalty in both Great Britain and China. A pleated shirt dress, knits like armour and quilted jackets featured in rich colours and aesthetically appealing materials that contrasted.

Gary Wilson

Gary closed the show in futuristic style. Fembot-like models wearing bobbed wigs that covered the eyes slowly graced the catwalk in a slightly terrifying manner. Leather dresses clung to their bodies and featured high-contrast patent leather and gold zips. It was a wonderful ending to a glorious show.

Written by Matt Bramford on Wednesday June 13th, 2012 12:55 pm

Categories ,2012, ,catwalk, ,Earls Court, ,fashion, ,Gary Wilson, ,Graduate Fashion Week, ,Hannah Harrison, ,Janneke de Jong, ,Jennifer Decarteret, ,Kamille Davis, ,Kathryn Iddon, ,Katie Briggs, ,Katie Tomlinson, ,knitwear, ,Martin Percival, ,Matt Bramford, ,menswear, ,Northumbria University, ,review, ,Womenswear, ,Ying Xu

Amelia’s Magazine | Nova Chiu: London Fashion Week A/W 2013 Catwalk Review

Nova Chiu AW2013 by Gaarte
Nova Chiu A/W 2013 by Gaarte

The ethereal eruption of colour and texture at Nova Chiu was a perfect way to end a tiring first day at London Fashion Week.

Nova Chiu AW 2013 by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory

All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Following last season’s showcase of a light and predominantly print-based collection, the house of Nova Chiu brought the label back to it’s roots of heavy embroidery and embellishments for A/W 2013.

Nova Chiu AW 2013 by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory

Nova Chiu by Laura Hickman
Nova Chiu A/W 2013 by Laura Hickman

An immensely exciting colour palette was on display – a mix of piercing neons and rich earthy tones, much like ‘The Electronic Super Highway’ by Korean-American artist Nam June Paik, an evident inspiration to the collection. Eclectic blends of material were also used – coloured leather, suede and horsehair blocks with embroideries and beaded trims, giving a three dimensional depth to the clothes.

Nova Chiu AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory

Nova Chiu AW by Amelia Gregory

Nova Chiu by Shy Illustrations
Nova Chiu A/W 2013 by Shy Illustrations

The garments coming down the runway were beautiful and meticulously crafted, but I found myself distracted by how bright the set lights were; unfortunately this made all the models skin look patchy with caked on foundation. Lighting aside, design duo Nova Chiu and Jeff Archer impressed with a dynamic collection that featured designs true to the label’s initial aesthetics and that are wearable enough to sell.

Written by Alex Kessler on Saturday February 23rd, 2013 12:08 am

Categories ,A/W 2013, ,catwalk, ,collection, ,colour, ,fashion, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Gaarte, ,garments, ,illustration, ,Jeff Archer, ,Laura Hickman, ,london, ,London Fashion Week, ,Nam June Paik, ,Neon, ,Nova Chiu, ,runway, ,Shy Illustrations, ,Texture, ,The Electronic Super Highway

Amelia’s Magazine | Oliver Spencer: London Collections: Men S/S 2015 Catwalk Review

Oliver Spencer S/S 2015 by Fiongal Greenlaw

It seemed like every man in London had been squashed into the Old Sorting Office for the Oliver Spencer show last Monday. It was bloody packed. My standing ticket didn’t offer me any privileges, as per, so I did my best to position myself behind the shortest person I could find in the hope of seeing anything at all. The lights dimmed and out marched a drumming band who, with huge grins on their faces, energetically played a samba beat for the models to walk to.

All photography by Matt Bramford

Oliver Spencer S/S 2015 by Kate Sloan

Oliver Spencer‘s mantra is if it ain’t broke don’t fix it and this was another season of summery basics, smart tailoring and enticing prints. Cropped jackets were worn with longer t-shirts, featuring graphic designs. Rolled-up trouser legs revealed bare ankles.

Fitted blazers replicated the floral patterns of matching shirts, teamed with contrasting shorts and cravats. Boxy overcoats and suede jackets in ochre gave a 1970s feel; luxe blues and greens provided a modern counterbalance.

Oliver Spencer S/S 2015 by Fiongal Greenlaw

Oliver Spencer S/S 2015 by Kate Sloan

Soft linen jackets and shirts provided a welcome break from the more rigid tailored pieces and I longed to be wearing a loose, floaty Oliver Spencer tunic than the thick t-shirt and jacket that I’d opted for. Checked blazers in vibrant orange, nautical stripes and light knitwear came next, accessorised with retro shades, loafers and large luggage. Whilst not the most outlandish collection, it provided a vast range of wearable separates that would be difficult to get wrong in any combination.

For the finale, the drummers switched to a more uptempo tune as a busty carnival dancer led out the models; the final line-up featured a bevy of samba beauties. It was prime timing as World Cup fever sweeps the nation, but it felt a little forced; as the dancers rolled and twirled and cavorted with the crowd, the models looked a little stiff in comparison and I was left wondering if this was really the best gimmick. I’m hoping my rhinestone-encrusted bikini and feather head dress that I ordered shortly afterwards arrives in time for the World Cup final, though.

Written by Matt Bramford on Tuesday June 24th, 2014 9:08 am

Categories ,Carnival, ,catwalk, ,fashion, ,Fiongal Greenlaw, ,Kate Sloan, ,LCMSS2015, ,london, ,London Collections Men, ,Matt Bramford, ,menswear, ,Oliver Spencer, ,review, ,Rio, ,SS15

Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Catwalk Review: Mary Katrantzou

Mary Katrantzou S/S 2012 by Joana Faria

I don’t usually do much during fashion week on Mondays and Tuesdays. That’s because I have a day job. But when Amelia offered me tickets to Michael Van Der Ham during Monday lunchtime and Mary Katrantzou on Tuesday morning, I couldn’t resist. It would be a push – a swift Boris from Southwark with moments to spare, but I thought hell, I’ll give it a go.

Mary Katrantzou S/S 2012 by Lesley Barnes

By the time I arrived at Waterloo on Tuesday morning, a queue of standing ticket owners had already formed. Christ, these queues don’t half drag you down. I stood puffing on a cigarette as photographers run down the line to take pictures, interns offer The Daily and other free stuff while a whole host of people in enormous heels leg it inside. ‘Why am I bothering?!’ I thought to myself. Well, it only took the first look to appear at the start of Katrantzou’s show to make me realise.

All photography by Matt Bramford

I didn’t have a hope in hell of getting my hand on a press release, lest a seat or one of Mary’s covetable, seasonal goodie bags, this time in black with a gorgeous fuchsia print (from what I could see). So I looked around the cavernous old Eurostar station for clues as to what Katrantzou might deliver this season. I didn’t have to look far. The entire runway had been transformed with a vast bank of erect carnations, framed from the back by a huge metal structure; a stark juxtaposition of natural and industrial which was to prevail as Katrantzou’s inspiration for this stunning collection.

Mary Katrantzou S/S 2012 by Karolina Burdon

I took a spot next to the photographer’s pit, manoeuvring behind anybody that looked remotely short – some mean feat at fashion week. The show started pretty soon after I finally entered the venue, which was literal music to my ears. It’s so easy to see why Mary Katrantzou has built up such an enormous following. What a breathtaking collection! I vaguely remember a quote in an interview that Katrantzou gave saying that she was worried if she pushed it any further, nobody would wear her clothes. Well there was no shortage of fans here today.

I’m so pleased I caught this show, despite my horrendous view: Katrantzou’s fascination with artificial against organic had been magically infused into this bright and bold collection. Digital prints featuring abstract elements of tin cans, microphones and car parts were the mainstay on mid-length dresses with translucent trains floating from the back. Saturated colours of all kinds – burnt organ, plum, greens, yellows, hot pink and cyan were aplenty, as if they had been painted onto the garments as the models wore them. You would be forgiven for thinking that it was all a bit of a mismatch, but discreet changes in cut and colour and the dramatic setting brought the collection together wonderfully.

Mary Katrantzou S/S 2012 by Joana Faria

Mary’s inimitable cocktail dresses this time seemed a little softer; dresses that began from one shoulder nipped in at the waist before blossoming out again to create an ideal silhouette. Katrantzou also showed sharp tailoring with blazers and trousers that were married together with the same vivid colours and abstract prints. But it will be the dynamic cutting of dresses and the breathtaking finale – a bias cut creation made entirely from brightly colour metals – that we’ll remember this collection for.

Mary Katrantzou S/S 2012 by Lesley Barnes

At the risk of sounding like an absolute berk, it was a real fashion moment. And I never say that. I left reeling. I’m sure the BFC are bending over backwards to keep Mary on our London Fashion Week schedule, but I fear it won’t be long before, like our other exceptional talent, she flies the nest to meet the demands of the global fashion market. For now, though, I feel privileged to have witnessed such an phenomenal display of world class fashion.

All photography by Matt Bramford

See the show here:

Written by Matt Bramford on Sunday September 25th, 2011 2:12 pm

Categories ,BFC, ,catwalk, ,Christian Louboutin, ,Digital Prints, ,Eurostar Terminal, ,fashion, ,Joana Faria, ,Karolina Burdon, ,Lesley Barnes, ,London Fashion Week, ,Machine, ,Man made, ,Mary Katrantzou, ,Matt Bramford, ,metallics, ,nature, ,organic, ,review, ,S/S 2012, ,SS12, ,tailoring, ,Topshop Space, ,Waterloo

Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Menswear Day Catwalk Review: Christopher Shannon

Christopher Shannon S/S 2012 by Michelle Urvall Nyrén

I’d received two standing tickets for Christopher Shannon‘s S/S 2012 show; the first show I would see on glorious menswear day. I only have two legs and while I know I’ve put on a few pounds, cure I thought two a little excessive. I also forgot to print either of them out, discount so I joined the queue for people with no tickets; the chancers’ queue, pilule you might call it. Mere moments before the show started we were allowed in, to find the BFC venue about 75% full. Pfft.

Christopher Shannon S/S 2012, illustrated by Naomi Law

I didn’t have much chance to do anything before the show started. I’m not sure what I’d do exactly, but it is nice to do a bit of people watching. There was no time for that this morning as no sooner had I got my camera out of my bag than the lights had fallen and the music started – this season a jazzed-up blend of indie tunes including the Happy Mondays. A sort of cardboard jungle had been constructed at the beginning of the catwalk, from which appeared Shannon’s first model. It seems his sports-luxe aesthetic is here to stay (and quite rightly so). A nylon knee-length coat with a crisp white shirt and black polka dot shorts soon had us all imagining what was to follow.

All photography by Matt Bramford

Next came more nylon jackets and windbreakers with shirt collars and hoods that juxtaposed sporty nylon with softer cottons in geometric shapes. A palette of slate, black and pastel blue seemed a little more A/W than S/S, but as the collection progressed bright tassels on the hems of tops and vibrant Madras patterns that split shirts in half provided a welcome burst of colour. Hasidic-inspired hairstyles complimented these influenced looks.

Christopher Shannon S/S 2012 by Sam Parr

There was an enviable mix of formal wear and casual wear – grey marl joggers looked ace teamed with a navy shirt that had bright coloured panels towards the lower half. Sharp tailored shorts were given a slight dressing down by the aforementioned Madras tops.

Slick hair-dos, now becoming a Shannon trademark, made a glorious return. I wish I could do that with my barnet. Some models wore a selection of combs as headpieces, which was a little silly on reflection, but in the moment you can’t help being drawn into Shannon‘s mysterious but oh-so-stylish world.

Christopher Shannon S/S 2012 by Michelle Urvall Nyrén

I’m pleased to report that there’s still an element of chav to Christopher Shannon‘s collections, although this one did feel like his most grown-up to date, whilst still retaining his inimitable blend of sportswear and tribal influences. And long may it continue.

Watch the video here:

Written by Matt Bramford on Monday September 26th, 2011 11:30 am

Categories ,1990s, ,BFC, ,catwalk, ,chavs, ,Christopher Shannon, ,Combs, ,Happy Mondays, ,Hasidic, ,London Fashion Week, ,Madras, ,menswear, ,MenswearSS12, ,Nylon, ,Polka dots, ,review, ,S/S 2012, ,Shorts, ,Somerset House, ,sportswear, ,tailoring, ,Tassels

Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week Fashion Scout Ones To Watch S/S 2015 Catwalk Review

Youjia Jin SS2015 by Dom&Ink.

This season Fashion Scout‘s Ones to Watch featured two designers that I spotted some time ago, and two that were new to me. Somewhat impressively, three are also alumni of the London College of Fashion.

Youjia Jin SS 2015 photography by Amelia Gregory

Youjia Jin SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory

All photography by Amelia Gregory.

First up Youjia Jin introduced an elegant and sophisticated predominantly monochrome collection that was sent down the catwalk to a backdrop of tribal beats. Draped pleats, belts, flared waists and cable knit were used to spice up an elegant selection of suiting worn with flat two tone shoes. The use of see through voile and steel grey dip dyeing brought further interest to a collection that was very commercially aware.

MIN WU SS2015 by Dom&Ink.

Min Wu SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory

Next up Min Wu did not disappoint. In fact I think this was definitely my favourite collection of the lot; somehow combining an avante grade use of fabrics and silhouette to create a very wearable and fun collection. Billowy tops were worn with suiting striped shorts, billowing chiffon bounced from hips and trompe l’oeil plastic provided additional interest. As always Min Wu accompanied the collection with marvellous accessories: curlicued headbands, colourful oversize beads and bright buttons.

Keisho Nishiyama_OnesToWatch_by_gaarte .jpg
Keisho Nishiyama by Gaarte.

Keiko Nishiyama SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory

Smoke City’s classic 90s track Underwater Love accompanied the second collection from Keiko Nishiyama. In her preview interview the Japanese designer explained how she was inspired by aquariums and collections of objects. Fluid fabrics were layered with more structured garments, printed tights adding to the busy effect. This collection was as highly patterned as her first; featuring shells, coral and fishes aplenty, but I wild have liked to see a bit more variety in her print designs.

Cassandra verity green_OnesToWatch_by_gaarte
Cassandra Verity Green by Gaarte.

Cassandra Verity Green SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory

Finally, Cassandra Verity went for a clubby feel with body con t-shirt dresses, cut out leggings and a variety of acid knitted textures. Brightly coloured wigs and fluff on collars, stoles and low heeled shoes added to the party atmosphere, with rigid plastic backpacks and clutch bags adding a very 90s air to the catwalk. Patterning was circular and optical in nature. Certainly not a collection for the faint hearted!