London Fashion Week

Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Menswear Catwalk Review: Asger Juel Larsen Vs t.lipop

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t.lipop LFW SS12 menswear by Faye West

t.lipop S/S 2012 by Faye West

Asger Juel Larsen versus t.lipop – not the first time to appear together – showed at Vauxhall Fashion Scout on the last day of London Fashion Week and gave me my most interesting queueing experience during this season. Upon arriving there was a multitude of cool young things waiting to go in – to my delight a lot of them were boys wearing big chunky jewellery! – while a little later the marvellously coiffured Prince Cassius joined the queue behind me, nurse quickly to be noticed and taken inside by the Blow PR girls. While I felt a little saddened that my co-queueing with Prince Cassius was so brief, approved I overheard a girl saying ‘oh, there is Kate Moss!’, which quickly distracted me from my loss. Immediately the whole queue, as if choreographed, leaned to the right to take a peak and of course a few cameras pointed towards her and husband Jamie Hince.

Asger Juel Larsen LFW SS12 menswear by Gemma Sheldrake
Asger Juel Larsen SS12 by Gemma Sheldrake

Asger Juel Larsen LFW SS12 menswear by Matt Bramford

Asger Juel Larsen LFW SS12 menswear by Matt Bramford

After being seated in the packed space inside, Asger Juel Larsen‘s models started coming out fast and aggressively. I really enjoyed elements such as the slightly twisted animal prints or the spiked prosthetic beards – reminding me of Bearded Dragons under threat – both of which impressively spelt out ‘wildness’. One of those spiked beards worn by a girl as well as a glorious chain mail army style headpiece with bull horns added the notion of the ‘beast’ to the collection. I am all for a little bit of bearded ladies and mythological creatures such as the Minotaur!

Asger Juel Larsen LFW SS12 menswear by Gareth A Hopkins
Asger Juel Larsen S/S 2012 by Gareth A Hopkins

Asger Juel Larsen LFW SS12 menswear by Matt Bramford

Asger Juel Larsen LFW SS12 menswear by Matt Bramford

Asger Juel Larsen LFW SS12 menswear by Maria Papadimitriou aka Slowly The Eggs
Asger Juel Larsen S/S 2012 by Maria Papadimitriou aka Slowly The Eggs

I thought the themes of wilderness, fighting and survival suggested by the symbolism described above were brilliantly complimented by a number of woolly hats with different metal letters stitched onto them spelling out the phrase ‘we live’. Further allusions to survival through sexual expression were added by a round stitched logo at the back of a jacket reading ‘happiness is a warm pussy’ and the brothel creepers some models wore – shoes originally worn by ex-soldiers visiting nightspots in London.

Asger Juel Larsen LFW SS12 menswear by Matt Bramford

Asger Juel Larsen LFW SS12 menswear by Claire Kearns

Asger Juel Larsen S/S 2012 by Claire Kearns

Asger Juel Larsen LFW SS12 menswear by Matt Bramford

Asger Juel Larsen LFW SS12 menswear by The Pern

Asger Juel Larsen S/S 2012 by The Pern

Asger Juel Larsen LFW SS12 menswear by Jess Sharville

Asger Juel Larsen LFW SS12 menswear by Jess Sharville

Asger Juel Larsen S/S 2012 by Jessica Sharville

Asger Juel Larsen LFW SS12 menswear by Matt Bramford

Asger Juel Larsen LFW SS12 menswear by Matt Bramford

Asger Juel Larsen LFW SS12 menswear portrait by Maria Papadimitriou

The contrast between Asger Juel Larsen and the designer that followed, t.lipop, was seemingly like war and peace. t.lipop favoured a palette of pale blues, camel, white and stone, with a splash of bright orange. It was an array of generally relaxed and flowing pieces that calmed us a little after what came earlier. We saw tailored smart jackets and trousers, minimal tops and long untucked shirts that were far less aggressive, even with feminine touches such as fringed adornments and embroidery.

t.lipop LFW SS12 menswear by Celine Eliott
t.lipop S/S 2012 by Celine Eliott

t.lipop LFW SS12 menswear by Matt Bramford

t.lipop LFW SS12 menswear by Matt Bramford

t.lipop LFW SS12 menswear by Vasare Nar
t.lipop S/S 2012 by Vasare Nar

Looking closer, however, I thought there were similarities in the underlying themes of the two collections. T.lipop’s gentlemanly clothes reminded me of movies starring wealthy imperialists in warm exotic countries – suggesting aggression and war – while the long hair and full beards on the models evoked images of castaways striving for survival. Some of the monochrome outfits with their collarless round necklines looked similar to uniforms seen in hospitals’ operating theatres or emergency units, whilst wide brimmed hats alluded perhaps to field workers, both adding to the – admittedly subtle this time – undertones of struggle and self-preservation.

t.lipop LFW SS12 menswear by Celine Elliott
t.lipop S/S 2012 by Celine Elliott

t.lipop LFW SS12 menswear by Matt Bramford

t.lipop LFW SS12 menswear by Matt Bramford

t.lipop LFW SS12 menswear by Matt Bramford

t.lipop LFW SS12 menswear by Matt Bramford

t.lipop portrait LFW SS12 menswear by Maria Papadimitriou

With so many interesting references and inspirations in both collections, when Prince Cassius tweeted me to say he really enjoyed the show I could only tweet back in agreement!

All photography by Matt Bramford.
Photo portraits of designers by Maria Papadimitriou.

Written by Maria Papadimitriou on Friday September 30th, 2011 3:54 pm

Categories ,Aggressive, ,Army, ,Asger Juel Larsen, ,Bearded Dragons, ,Bearded Ladies, ,Blow PR, ,Brothel Creepers, ,Castaways, ,Celine Elliott, ,Chain Mail, ,Claire Kearns, ,designer, ,embroidery, ,fashion, ,Faye West, ,Fighting, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Fringing, ,Gareth A Hopkins, ,Gemma Sheldrake, ,hats, ,Headpiece, ,Jackets, ,Jamie Hince, ,Jessica Sharville, ,jewellery, ,Kate Moss, ,london, ,London Fashion Week, ,Long hair, ,Maria Papadimitriou, ,menswear, ,minimalist, ,Minotaur, ,Mythological Creatures, ,Prince Cassius, ,Prosthetic Beards, ,Slowly the Eggs, ,Suits, ,Survivalist, ,t.lipop, ,tailored, ,The Pern, ,Tweeting, ,Uniforms, ,Vasare Nar, ,Vauxhall Fashion Scout, ,Wilderness

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2011: Somerset House Day 1 as a Blogger

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The best things about fashion week are, in order of importance:

1. The shows. Of course, otherwise we wouldn’t be here. I mean, the good ones. Sometimes you want to explain to a designer that just because something can be designed, it doesn’t mean it should be. George Mallory said he wanted to climb Mount Everest “because it’s there” and look what happened to him. I’m pleased to report I’ve liked everything I’ve seen so far though.
2. Free pastries.
3. Looking at people’s crazy crazy outfits. Gorgeous girls are ten a penny at fashion week, so what everyone really wants to see is cone-shaped hairdos, dresses that are basically just a bra sellotaped to climbing apparatus and interesting hats.

The press room is also pretty great. It has benches and foliage:

Cool laptops I’ve seen around Somerset House.

Superior snacks I have seen and eaten:

I did also try to take sneaky pictures of the good-looking men who were providing help in the registration room but I bottled it when one of them looked at me, so I’m afraid you’ll just have to use your imagination.

Written by Satu Fox on Saturday September 18th, 2010 10:09 am

Categories ,LFW SS11, ,London Fashion Week, ,Somerset House

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Amelia’s Magazine | Ong-Oaj Pairam: London Fashion Week S/S 2014 Preview Interview

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ONG-OAJ PAIRAM by Gaarte
ONG-OAJ PAIRAM S/S 2014 preview by Gaarte.

Thai born designer Ong-Oaj Pairam takes to the catwalk this season as part of Fashion Scout at the Freemasons’ Hall. Having trained with the likes of Proenza Schouler and Roland Mouret, he combines precise tailoring with an eye for decorative detail. I caught up with Ong-Oaj for an exclusive preview of the new collection.

Ong-Oaj Pairam Autumn:Winter 2013
Ong-Oaj Pairam A/W 2013.

You studied at Brighton University (so did I!) What is the best thing about the course these days?
I found the course really tough, and found I had a hard time just keeping my head down. The beauty of studying in Brighton is the ability to escape from it all when you need to switch off. You are surrounded by the beautiful countryside and the sea. The aftercare I have got from my tutors has been really valuable and they have been really supportive of me launching my own brand. The friends I made at uni are friends for life: many are taking the day of work for me and chipping in backstage to help with the show.

What three words best describe your style?
Confident, elegant, fun.
 
Ong-Oaj Pairam Autumn:Winter 2013
Ong-Oaj Pairam A/W 2013.

What did you learn from working at Proenza Schouler and Roland Mouret?
Proenza Schouler was only a small company when I started with them so I had to adapt very quickly to various roles. I would be pattern cutting, managing a runway show and running sales all in the same week. I was very lucky that Jack and Lazaro exposed me to everything. New York is also great place for people watching, and because I saw people making really brave yet sophisticated choices in what to wear it helped me develop my own style. Roland Mouret helped me refine my pattern cutting skills: he is a master at the body conscious dress. I learnt that simpler design is often harder to achieve yet just as impactful.
 
Ong-Oaj Pairam Spring Summer '14 Preview Collection by Rose Crees
Ong-Oaj Pairam S/S 2014 Preview by Rose Crees.

How have you translated the idea of Drew Barrymore’s character in ET into a fashion collection? It sounds most intriguing. 
Haha, inspiration comes in the most extraordinary forms. Gertie (Drew Barrymore’s character) inspired me in many ways. Initially I emulated her childish curiosity in the creative process, exaggerating what is exciting and removing all the usual rules. She’s one tough cookie, despite her age, and I admired her strength. Without giving too much away, there are lots of cues to her character in the collection, including fabric choices, patterns, colour and perspectives. (Although there’s no gingham cowgirl uniforms or cut out bed sheet in this collection… yet…)
 
Ong-Oaj Pairam A/W 2013 by Zoe Gotts
Ong-Oaj Pairam S/S 2014 preview by Zoe Gotts.

Why is it so important to you to print on British textiles, and where do you get this done?
We have so many skilled factories and teams in Britain and there is so much talent, yet it’s very easy to get work done overseas to save on cost. You miss out on a wealth of local talent, craft and inspiration if you save a few pennies by getting work done abroad. All the textiles in this collection were sourced and printed in Britain, and all my embroidery and my shoes have been manufactured here. It’s nice building a relationship with the companies and you learn so much more from the people. 
 
Ong-Oaj Pairam Autumn:Winter 2013
Ong-Oaj Pairam A/W 2013.

Embroidery was all done by Jenny King and her team, her studio is a five minute walk from my studio and she has a huge portfolio of spectacular embroidered pieces. My shoes were manufactured by Thomas Murphy, who is an incredible designer and has a small workshop in London. The textiles come from various factories, unfortunately they are mainly in Yorkshire so a bit too far for me to bribe them with cup-cakes. Printing is done through the Silk Bureau.
 
Ong-Oaj Pairam A/W 2013
Ong-Oaj Pairam A/W 2013.

How has your Thai heritage affected your approach to design? 
My Thai background has mainly affected my approach to business and my work ethic. My parents grew a successful (food) industry from nothing and inspired me to work very hard and achieve my dreams. Always start with the end in mind and keep focussed. They are also good at making sure I keep my business head on.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Thursday September 12th, 2013 10:34 am

Categories ,A/W 2013, ,Brighton University, ,Drew Barrymore, ,ET, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Gaarte, ,Gabriel Ayala, ,Gertie, ,interview, ,Jenny King, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,Ong-Oaj Pairam, ,Pop PR, ,preview, ,Proenza Schouler, ,Roland Mouret, ,Rose Crees, ,S/S 2014, ,Silk Bureau, ,Thai, ,Thomas Murphy, ,Zoe Gotts

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Amelia’s Magazine | Pre-London Fashion Week S/S 2011 Interview: Charlie le Mindu

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Charlie le Mindu A/W 2010, purchase illustrated by Naomi Law

Cheeky Charlie le Mindu already had quite the reputation when he burst onto the scene in dramatic fashion a couple of years ago. As celebrity hairdresser to the stars, he’d already produced a client list that included the likes of Florence Welsh, Uffie, Lady Gaga and Peaches. His first collection showed the makings of a designer with impact, with dramatic silhouettes, contrasting materials and eery influences. But it was his star performance in the Blow Presents… show for S/S 2009 that really grabbed the media’s attention. His collection, made from human hair and luxe materials, caused a stir in that way that radical fashion does and rendering row after row of fashionista breathless.


Charlie le Mindu, S/S 2010

But what would he do next? Surely you can’t keep on making bonkers frocks from hair, can you? Well, it turns out you can, and last season Charlie had us bouncing up and down with glee with his sexed-up religion-inspired collection – a more refined and sophisticated one that still managed to convey Charlie’s unique vision.

Church bells chimed and haunting cackles played, while androgynous models appeared one after the other sporting racy all-in-one lace numbers and crucifixes atop their heads or cocoon-like headpieces (see the video here).

I managed to catch up with Charlie for a (brief) chat to delve a bit more into the psyche of this weird and wonderful designer. I have to warn you, though – he doesn’t give much away. But in three days it’s time for collection number four – one fashion week’s attendees wait for with immense anticipation.


Charlie le Mindu S/S 2010, illustrated by Steph Parr

Hi Charlie! You’re quickly rising up the fashion ranks, what’s been the highlight of your journey so far?
I think the highlight for the moment is to have met new friends like Anna Trevelayn, who is totally on the same wavelength as me in terms of ideas.

What was the inspiration behind your eery A/W 2010 collection?
It was based on religion and I wanted to show that all religion could be very sexy and dirty at the same time.

What is it about hair that fascinates you so much?
I can do anything I want to do with it. It’s a perfect match of fabrics for me, and it’s the texture I’ve worked with since I was 13!

Of all your celebrity hair clients, who have been the best (or worst) to work with?!
The best one was Carolina Bambina from Kap Bambino and Peaches, because they are my best mates.


Charlie le Mindu, A/W 2010

A number of stylish celebrities have been seen wearing your work, from Gaga to Drew Barrymore. Who else would you like to dress?
I’d love to dress Cher, so much. She is the queen of plastic surgery! She is never gonna die, so I could work with her forever!

How are you preparing for this coming fashion week? Are you excited? Nervous?
I’m very excited – I think it’s going to be my dirtiest show so far!!!

You’re part of the latest breed of London fashion designers who push the boundaries in that unique, raw way. How do you think London fashion compares to the other bigger cities?
I don’t think I push the boundaries, because if I did push it, people wouldn’t come to see my show! I just try to make things fun. And sexy. London fashion is fun, but it’s going to be more fun again in a few years time I think.

Do you find juggling haute coiffure and haute couture a challenge? Which do you prefer?
It’s the same for me, they work together.

What’s next for Charlie Le Mindu?
Maybe opening a shop…!

Written by Matt Bramford on Tuesday September 14th, 2010 2:29 pm

Categories ,A/W 2010, ,A/W 2011, ,Anna Trevelayn, ,Blow PR, ,Carolina Bambina, ,Charlie le Mindu, ,Cher, ,Crucifix, ,Drew Barrymore, ,Florence Welsh, ,Hair, ,interview, ,Kap Bambino, ,Lady Gaga, ,London Fashion Week, ,Naomi Law, ,Peaches, ,Plastic Surgery, ,preview, ,religion, ,S/S 2009, ,SEX, ,Steph Parr, ,Uffie

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Menswear Day Catwalk Review: James Small

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James Small S/S 2012 by Milly Jackson

I arrived at the James Small show pretty early – such is the bonkers London Fashion Week schedule that some shows overlap and then you’re left with huge gaps in your day. I joined the small but perfectly formed queue and waited for a pal to arrive. The show was delayed, prescription I was informed, because of the knock-on effect of late-runners throughout the day. The queue eventually began moving a mere 20 minutes late, and just as we were about to be let in, we were halted by an impossibly gorgeous PR girl. Her colleague came over and whispered ‘Kate’s imminent, we should hold the queue‘. Now, I don’t know if it was the pint I’d just enjoyed or the onset stir-crazy sensation I was experiencing after 6 days of shows, but I started sweating profusely. It couldn’t be, could it? ‘Calm down, Matt’ I internally repeated. It can’t be. She wouldn’t. It might be a code word. It might be Kate Adie.


Kate Moss by Antonia Parker

Eventually, after much discussion, it was decided that we should be allowed in because this mysterious Kate hadn’t yet arrived. We were escorted individually up the grand staircase of the Freemasons Hall, this Vauxhall Fashion Scout venue, and assigned seats on the front row. Seating was heavily policed, and I enjoyed the personal escort, but it was taking bloody ages and another show downstairs was set to take place pretty soon afterwards. Jaime Winstone, looking incredible with a silver grandma up-do and vertiginous heels, entered the room and was seated with little fuss. Now I love Jaime Winstone, but if ‘Kate’ was a codename for Jaime Winstone, I was about to go berserk.


Kate Moss by Claire Kearns


Kate Moss by Gilly Rochester

The personal escort service soon turned into a scrum; somebody had clearly realised that it just wasn’t practical. I let out a huge sigh as I said to my friend ‘Well, Kate clearly isn’t coming.’ ‘What?’ my friend replied, ‘she’s over there!’ I turned to my left to study the front row. Somehow I had missed the arrival of Meg Matthews, Sadie Frost, Annabelle Neilson, James Brown, Jamie Hince and… Kate Moss. Kate FREAKIN’ Moss!


All photography by Matt Bramford

There was little fuss as I struggled to fight the urge to jump out of my seat, leap across the catwalk, gather Kate up in my arms and force her to take my hand in marriage. It all happened so quickly, and of course, now Kate had arrived, the show must go on.


James Small S/S 2012 by Gabriel Ayala

It was tricky to concentrate on the show knowing that My Kate was mere feet away, but being the consummate professional that I am, I took up my camera and started to study the clothes, being carefully to take a picture of Kate in between each look. The fashion on offer was actually great, and I don’t know why I was thinking that it might not be. The secondary venue at Fashion Scout is actually much nicer – a dark wood arch divides the old stone room, dark wood lines the floor and majestic chandeliers hover above the revellers. Models appear almost out of nowhere. You do lose sight of the models as they bound through the arch, unfortunately, but this ensured enough time to snap Kate excessively.


James Small S/S 2012 by Sam Parr

Hysteria mounted thanks to the special guests: Kate and her entourage whooped and cheered every look and wolf-whistled translucent shirts, which sent roars of laughter through the room. Last season’s sharp tailoring continued this time around, but had been given a more casual feel for the discerning gentleman who manages to looking devastatingly cool without any real effort during the summer months.


James Small S/S 2012 by Milly Jackson

Small’s mainstay silk shirts had been jazzed up with the aforementioned translucency, and romantic florals with an air of Liberty were the most aesthetically appealing pieces in the collection, particularly a shirt/shorts combination with identical print. I’m not sure I’d get away with it, but the model did with aplomb.

Small‘s sharp tailoring was dressed down with white ankle-high sports socks and Vans in varying colours – when I read this on the press release I wasn’t so sure about it, but seeing it in the flesh allowed it to make sense. Rich colours: plum and royal blue, and luxe materials: silk and velvet, made this collection Small‘s most sophisticated yet. Retaining an edge above his competitors with leopard print and camouflage short shorts, it’s Small’s sharp cuts and sophisticated tailoring that really set him above the rest. That and his stellar front row, of course.

Written by Matt Bramford on Wednesday September 28th, 2011 12:41 pm

Categories ,Annabelle Neilson, ,Antonia Parker, ,catwalk, ,Claire Kearns, ,combat, ,fashion, ,Floral prints, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Front Row, ,Gabriel Ayala, ,Gilly Rochester, ,illustration, ,James Brown, ,James Small, ,Jamie Hince, ,Kate Moss, ,Leopard Print, ,liberty, ,London Fashion Week, ,Meg Matthews, ,menswear, ,MenswearSS12, ,Milly Jackson, ,review, ,S/S 2012, ,Sadie Frost, ,Sam Parr, ,Silks, ,tailoring, ,The Kills, ,Translucent, ,Vans, ,Vauxhall Fashion Scout

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Amelia’s Magazine | Lu Flux introduces Sea and Be Seen A/W 2011 and A-Lu-Ha S/S 2012 collections

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Lu-Flux-SS-2012-by-Antonia-Parker
Lu Flux S/S 2012 by Antonia Parker.

This year Lu Flux decided to show in the main exhibition area of London Fashion Week, away from Estethica for the first time. I was delighted to see that her stand was the usual riot of colour, a return to the mix and match patchwork aesthetic from which she strayed a tiny bit last season. Under the desk was a giant cookie, created by Millie’s Cookies as a winning design for their Cookie Couture Collection. It was inspired by her new S/S 2012 A-Lu-Ha collection, with bold swirls based on the design of a Tiki mask. It’s been awhile since I checked in with ACOFI featured eco designer Lu Flux, so it’s definitely time to catch up on the past two seasons.

Lu Flux AW 2011 sea and be seen
Lu Flux AW 2011 sea and be seen
Lu Flux AW 2011 sea and be seen
Lu Flux A/W 2011 by Estelle Morris
Lu Flux A/W 2011 by Estelle Morris.

For your A/W 2011 collection you worked with Shetland wool producers Jamieson & Smith – how did this come about and did you learn anything interesting about wool production on your recent trip to the Shetland isles?
I have always appreciated and supported British manufacturers and the use of local produce; I believe that Jamieson & Smith represent the essence of this very well. I am also drawn to the Shetland Islands and was very intrigued to understand the natural and careful processing of the wool, which uses the crofters’ traditional and precious methods from start to finish. 

Lu Flux AW 2011 sea and be seen
Lu Flux AW 2011 sea and be seen
Lu Flux AW 2011 sea and be seen
Lu Flux A/W 2011 by SarahJayneDraws
Lu Flux A/W 2011 by Sarah Jayne Morris.   

The collection was inspired by creatures of the deep sea – how did this translate into the full collection, which features some opulent velvets and beautiful bold prints?
The collection takes moments from the deep dark depths of the sea and exaggerates their textures and forms, the embroidery for example references the bioluminescent creatures and the fabric was manipulatated to resemble giant clams and anemones.    

Lu Flux AW 2011 sea and be seen
Lu Flux AW 2011 sea and be seen
Lu Flux AW 2011 sea and be seen
Lu Flux Sea & Be Seen Autumn Winter 2011 by Sam Parr
Lu Flux Sea & Be Seen A/W 2011 by Sam Parr.

Sea & Be Seen is in the shops now – where can fans of Lu Flux find a piece in the UK?
You can find the new collection in Labour of Love in Islington, London, 69b Broadway Market, East London and Wolf & Badger in West London.


Your videos are always truly wonderful – what were your storyboard ideas for A/W 2011? It has a very decadent esoteric and otherworldly feel.
The A/W 2011 Sea & Be Seen video portrays a group of pleasure seekers tired of each other’s company and so to entice a change of mood the hostess offers a mysterious and magical gift. The gift unleashes the dreamy aquatic motifs of the collection which whirl around the velvet-draped den, sending spirits rocketing. Neil O’Driscoll (the director that I work with) wanted to introduce more animation following on from the S/S 2011 film and so we used the illustrations from the prints (drawn by Dan Arnold) and brought them to life.  

Lu Flux SS 2012 A-Lu-Ha
Lu Flux SS 2012 A-Lu-Ha
Lu Flux SS 2012 A-Lu-Ha
Lu Flux S/S 2012 by Amber Grayson
Lu Flux S/S 2012 by Amber Grayson.


You have given the S/S 2012 A-Lu-Ha video a retro feel thanks to the soundtrack and camera work, was this a deliberate attempt to get away from a too heavily Hawaiian feel, and what inspired it? Food also features heavily – what dictated your choice of food?
There was quite a prominent sense of the 60’s in the Hawaiian imagery and research that I looked at during the initial stages of the collection, so the soundtrack for Barbarella seemed quite complimentary. British car boot sales and village fetes combined with an English tea party were the influences for the elements of food in the video, which is why we used things like blancmange, jelly, tea, hundreds and thousands, and even a Victoria sponge cake covered in sand. Blancmange is quite simply disgusting if you haven’t tried it by the way!

Lu Flux SS 2012 A-Lu-Ha
Lu Flux SS 2012 A-Lu-Ha
Lu Flux S/S 2012 by Antonia Parker
Lu Flux S/S 2012 by Antonia Parker.

This season sees a return to your colourful patchwork best… what is it that you love most about creating fashion and which processes can you not live without?
I love that I am able to create fashion every day and I like to think about my garments being found in all four corners of the world, seen by a worldwide audience. I would say patchworking is my inherent process, as it is my signature technique and I include it in all of my collections.    

Lu Flux SS 2012 A-Lu-Ha
Lu Flux SS 2012 A-Lu-Ha
Lu Flux Tiki face by Amber Grayson
Lu Flux Tiki face by Amber Grayson.

What do you think it is in your DNA that makes you so attracted to colourful whimsy? Can you directly relate it back to anything you grew up with or fell in love with as a child?
Ha! I must have been born on a patchwork rug! Well I have learnt a lot from my mum in terms of the methods I use. My first making memory I have is of myself, my mum and my cousin making ragdolls together -mine had long black plaited wool hair in bunches but we never got around to creating the facial features. I still have her, but I have never put a face on her.    

Lu Flux SS 2012 by Megan Turner-Jones
Lu Flux S/S 2012 by Megan Turner-Jones.

Do you ever take notice of wider fashion trends, or indeed other trends in life and do these ever effect the way you design?
I don’t really take any notice of the trends going on around me; I just design and build in my own world.

Lu Flux S/S 2012 by Estelle Morris
Lu Flux S/S 2012 by Estelle Morris.

What started on you the path of design for the current collection – eg tiki masks and aloha style – A-Lu-Ha!
It was a day in the depths of winter and I was listening to Hawaii Hour on Angel radio (an Isle of Wight radio station with the tag line Music for the Mature Listener) and it played brilliant non-stop vintage Hawaii songs. I think that was the seed of inspiration which led me to this collection. 

Lu Flux S/S 2012 by Lesley T Spencer
Lu Flux S/S 2012 by Lesley T Spencer.

I really love the way your champion other designers on your own blog. For example you have friends all over the world such as Judi of Vanguard Works and Studio Tipi – where do you meet these people and will you collaborate with any of them?
Well Judi actually found me; she has a couple of my dresses. I love discovering new artists and illustrators, it opens more doors and by collaborating with them it adds other dynamic elements to my work.    

Lu Flux S/S 2012 by Estelle Morris
Lu Flux S/S 2012 by Estelle Morris.

How do you find out about Lu Flux fans such as the Japanese blogger Chiaki, and who would your ideal Lu Flux wearer be?
I found out about Chiaki through my Japanese agents who are constantly updating me on the goings on in Japanese fashion and press. I like it when people wear outfits which match their character, like Brie Larson for example. She is an American actress who stars in a show called The United States of Tara and she wore my Boo Boo Bear dress. After meeting her I thought they went hand in hand.

You can read more about Lu Flux in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Tuesday October 25th, 2011 4:59 pm

Categories ,69b Broadway Market, ,A-Lu-Ha, ,A/W 2011, ,ACOFI, ,Amber Grayson, ,Antonia Parker, ,Barbarella, ,Boo Boo Bear, ,Brie Larson, ,Chiaki, ,crofting, ,Dan Arnold, ,Eco fashion, ,Estelle Morris, ,Hawaii Hour, ,Hawaiian, ,isle of wight, ,Jamieson & Smith, ,japanese, ,Labour of Love, ,Lesley T Spencer, ,London Fashion Week, ,Lu Flux, ,Megan Turner-Jones, ,Millie’s Cookies, ,S/S 2012, ,Sam Parr, ,Sarah Jayne Morris, ,Sea & Be Seen, ,Shetland Islands, ,Shetland Wool, ,Studio Tipi, ,Tiki, ,United States of Tara, ,Vanguard Works, ,Wolf & Badger

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Amelia’s Magazine | Orla Kiely: London Fashion Week A/W 2013 Presentation Review

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Orla Kiely A/W 2013 by Laura Hickman

Ireland’s Orla Kiely has firmly established her eponymous London label over the seasons with 1960s silhouettes, playful prints and rich fabrics. While the look book each season is never going to shock or win any awards for pushing the boundaries of fashion, style fans head to Orla for staple vintage pieces that are playful and pretty. But to judge Orla against the likes of Azzedine Alaïa or Hussein Chalayan would be missing the point. Always a nod to decades past, previous presentations have included film screenings directed by Gia Coppola and Mercedes Helnwein.


All photography by Matt Bramford

This season’s presentation took place in the intriguing Elms Lesters Painting Rooms, a gallery off Denmark Street that often hosts fashion press days; its labyrinth of rooms lend themselves well to presentations of this nature. A long arm of the upper floor had been transformed into a retro working-girl’s space that could have been lifted straight from a scene from Mad Men or working-class hero flick Made in Dagenham.


Orla Kiely A/W 2013 by Dom&Ink

Numerous models appeared at the entrance to the elongated space wearing this season’s take on Orla’s signature looks, as an unobtrusive soundtrack made up mostly of the clatter of a typewriter played. Beehive barnets piled high atop models’ heads. Orla’s girls were superbly cast, more as actresses than runway models: loading typewriters, filing paperwork, nattering quietly and changing ‘shifts’ regularly to allow other models to enter the showcase.


Orla Kiely A/W 2013 by Laura Hickman

Attention to detail was key, with design perverts like me eyeing up mid-century Scandinavian furniture, Smiths‘ clocks and old graphic signage as much as the outfits themselves.

Statement features this season include high-waisted dresses with girly a-line hems, flocked coats with swirling patterns, pleated and pointed collars, embroidered squirrels and a-line overcoats using Orla Kiely‘s signature shape.


Orla Kiely A/W 2013 by Dom&Ink

This kind of thoughtful, preciously executed presentation is the way forward. With never-ending developments in technology and record numbers at catwalk shows, presentations allow you to fully gage the nuances of collections and document them effectively, rather than the scramble to photograph, tweet, Facebook, Vine, MySpace, tumblr, Foursquare and Grindr your way through a catwalk show.


Orla Kiely A/W 2013 by Laura Hickman

Another infinitely wearable collection that will satisfy the label’s fans en masse.

Written by Matt Bramford on Tuesday February 19th, 2013 3:46 pm

Categories ,1950s, ,1960s, ,A/W 2013, ,A/W’13, ,beehive, ,Dom&Ink, ,Elms Lesters Painting Rooms, ,ireland, ,Laura Hickman, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,Mad Men, ,Made in Dagenham, ,Matt Bramford, ,Orla Kiely, ,Presentation, ,review, ,Smiths clocks, ,vintage

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Amelia’s Magazine | Pre-London Fashion Week S/S 2011 Interview: Charlie le Mindu

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Charlie le Mindu A/W 2010, purchase illustrated by Naomi Law

Cheeky Charlie le Mindu already had quite the reputation when he burst onto the scene in dramatic fashion a couple of years ago. As celebrity hairdresser to the stars, he’d already produced a client list that included the likes of Florence Welsh, Uffie, Lady Gaga and Peaches. His first collection showed the makings of a designer with impact, with dramatic silhouettes, contrasting materials and eery influences. But it was his star performance in the Blow Presents… show for S/S 2009 that really grabbed the media’s attention. His collection, made from human hair and luxe materials, caused a stir in that way that radical fashion does and rendering row after row of fashionista breathless.


Charlie le Mindu, S/S 2010

But what would he do next? Surely you can’t keep on making bonkers frocks from hair, can you? Well, it turns out you can, and last season Charlie had us bouncing up and down with glee with his sexed-up religion-inspired collection – a more refined and sophisticated one that still managed to convey Charlie’s unique vision.

Church bells chimed and haunting cackles played, while androgynous models appeared one after the other sporting racy all-in-one lace numbers and crucifixes atop their heads or cocoon-like headpieces (see the video here).

I managed to catch up with Charlie for a (brief) chat to delve a bit more into the psyche of this weird and wonderful designer. I have to warn you, though – he doesn’t give much away. But in three days it’s time for collection number four – one fashion week’s attendees wait for with immense anticipation.


Charlie le Mindu S/S 2010, illustrated by Steph Parr

Hi Charlie! You’re quickly rising up the fashion ranks, what’s been the highlight of your journey so far?
I think the highlight for the moment is to have met new friends like Anna Trevelayn, who is totally on the same wavelength as me in terms of ideas.

What was the inspiration behind your eery A/W 2010 collection?
It was based on religion and I wanted to show that all religion could be very sexy and dirty at the same time.

What is it about hair that fascinates you so much?
I can do anything I want to do with it. It’s a perfect match of fabrics for me, and it’s the texture I’ve worked with since I was 13!

Of all your celebrity hair clients, who have been the best (or worst) to work with?!
The best one was Carolina Bambina from Kap Bambino and Peaches, because they are my best mates.


Charlie le Mindu, A/W 2010

A number of stylish celebrities have been seen wearing your work, from Gaga to Drew Barrymore. Who else would you like to dress?
I’d love to dress Cher, so much. She is the queen of plastic surgery! She is never gonna die, so I could work with her forever!

How are you preparing for this coming fashion week? Are you excited? Nervous?
I’m very excited – I think it’s going to be my dirtiest show so far!!!

You’re part of the latest breed of London fashion designers who push the boundaries in that unique, raw way. How do you think London fashion compares to the other bigger cities?
I don’t think I push the boundaries, because if I did push it, people wouldn’t come to see my show! I just try to make things fun. And sexy. London fashion is fun, but it’s going to be more fun again in a few years time I think.

Do you find juggling haute coiffure and haute couture a challenge? Which do you prefer?
It’s the same for me, they work together.

What’s next for Charlie Le Mindu?
Maybe opening a shop…!

Written by Matt Bramford on Tuesday September 14th, 2010 2:29 pm

Categories ,A/W 2010, ,A/W 2011, ,Anna Trevelayn, ,Blow PR, ,Carolina Bambina, ,Charlie le Mindu, ,Cher, ,Crucifix, ,Drew Barrymore, ,Florence Welsh, ,Hair, ,interview, ,Kap Bambino, ,Lady Gaga, ,London Fashion Week, ,Naomi Law, ,Peaches, ,Plastic Surgery, ,preview, ,religion, ,S/S 2009, ,SEX, ,Steph Parr, ,Uffie

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Menswear Day Catwalk Review: Ones to Watch KYE

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KYE S/S 2012 by Katie Allen
KYE S/S 2012 by Katie Allen.

Ones to Watch menswear finished with the most outrageous designer: KYE. Live and Let Live featured plenty of glitzy gold decoration in the form of glittery DMs, viagra dosage foiled prints of skeleton uzis and even a life size crystal encrusted gun bag strapped across a bare chest. Inspired by the images of conflicts and violence that saturate our news networks, dosage this was not a collection for the feint hearted.

LFW_SS12_OnestoWatchMen_KYE_MattBramford
Photography by Matt Bramford.

Ones to Watch men KYE SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men KYE SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men KYE SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men KYE SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men KYE SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men KYE SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men KYE SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men KYE SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men KYE SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
KYE SS 2012 by Barb Royal
KYE S/S 2012 by Barb Royal.

Woven tasselled scarves worn in multiple around wrists and ankles, ed on heads and around faces were a nod towards Palestinian fashion – even appearing in a full matching shirts and shorts suit with neon guns emblazoned in embroidery on the back.

Ones to Watch men KYE SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men KYE SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men KYE SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men KYE SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men KYE SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men KYE SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
KYE S/S 2012 by Barb Royal.
KYE S/S 2012 by Barb Royal.

Having grown up in a separated country Korean born designer Kathleen Hanhee Kye pokes fun at excessive militarism, but this was always going to be difficult ground to tread – I am sure that as many people will find this collection distasteful as find it entertaining. Still, whoever said fashion could not cause us to pause and think, or even antagonise? One thing is certain, Live and Let Live was a fun and different way to round up S/S 2012 menswear Ones to Watch.

LFW_SS12_OnestoWatchMen_KYE_MattBramford
LFW_SS12_OnestoWatchMen_KYE_MattBramford
LFW_SS12_OnestoWatchMen_KYE_MattBramford
LFW_SS12_OnestoWatchMen_KYE_MattBramford
LFW_SS12_OnestoWatchMen_KYE_MattBramford
LFW_SS12_OnestoWatchMen_KYE_MattBramford
LFW_SS12_OnestoWatchMen_KYE_MattBramford
LFW_SS12_OnestoWatchMen_KYE_MattBramford
Photography by Matt Bramford.

Kathleen Hanhee Kye holds a BA and MA in menswear from Central Saint Martins. She hopes to branch out into womenswear next season: I’m intrigued to see what this will look like.

Ones to Watch men KYE SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Photography by Amelia Gregory.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Tuesday October 4th, 2011 6:31 pm

Categories ,Barb Royal, ,Central Saint Martins, ,Fashion Scout, ,Glitzy, ,Gold, ,Kathleen Hanhee Kye, ,Katie Allen, ,Korean, ,KYE, ,KYE Fashion, ,lfw, ,Live and Let Live, ,London Fashion Week, ,Matt Bramford, ,menswear, ,Militarism, ,Ones To Watch, ,Palestine

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Amelia’s Magazine | Lug Von Siga: London Fashion Week A/W 2013 Catwalk Review

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Luc Von Siga by Louise Smith
Lug Von Siga LFW A/W 2013 by Louise Smith

At first I stand, then I kneel, and by the time the show starts, I’m sitting on the floor. Hardly the most elegant of positions, but comfortable and as an added bonus; clean-view camera shots can be achieved through this little-known ‘crouching tiger’ catwalk-reporting technique.

Luc von Siga by Louise Smith
Lug Von Siga LFW A/W 2013 by Louise Smith

I’m hooked from the moment the orchestral song starts playing at Lug Von Siga‘s A/W 2013 LFW show in Freemasons’ Hall. The music reminds me of listening to the Peter and the Wolf audiotape as a kid. Unnervingly, what drew me in comes back to haunt me and within minutes it sounds more like the distinctive shower-dagger scene from Alfred Hitchcock’s Psycho. I suppose they do say you’d have to be crazy to be a designer…

Lug Von Siga AW 2013
Lug Von Siga AW 2013
All photography by Amelia Gregory

The clothes have a story-time feel to them; modernized fairytale-wear updated for the current era with a lashing of chic and well-cut to add some sophistication. What would a 2013 Little Red Riding Hood wear under her cape? What would a modern day Cap ‘o’ Rushes put on for work? There’s definitely an Upper East Side fairytale Queen among these outfits. A chain-mail like use of silver on one piece feels very knight in shining armour too; female of course.

Lug Von Siga AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Lug Von Siga AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Lug Von Siga AW 2013

Turkish designer Lug Von Siga offers this stylish collection on the opening day of LFW A/W 2013. An outfit is even complete with shards of mirror, seemingly confirming my suspicions that the collection is nodding to Snow White, although I soon discover they are actually inspired by Ottoman Empire superstitions. This ancient influence expresses itself through a futuristic look and there’s a hint of 1940s in the block shapes. Elegance is maintained throughout with long gloves and trilby hats. The colours are surprising, with magenta and gold popping up unexpectedly. A shiny jacket with a tinge of astronaut reminds me of Midas and his golden touch as well as hinting at 80s influences. The cherry on top of all this is some rich plum pieces. Combined with the unnerving soundtrack, this magenta makes me think of a certain Cluedo professor and gives the collection an air of mystery. “It was Lug Von Siga’s collection in Freemasons’ Hall with the monochrome that did it for me,” I think to myself.

Lug Von Siga by Rosemary Kirton
Lug Von Siga A/W 2013 by Rosemary Kirton

Lasalle Academy graduate Lug Von Siga has come up with a solid collection; high detatchable collars and androgynous styling define the look. Wool is contrasted against loose fitted jackets and faux-fur is brought into the mix. The pieces are notably well-tailored and there’s a large number of sleeveless garments.

Lug Von Siga AW 2013
Lug Von Siga AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Lug Von Siga AW 2013

I notice a boy in the audience has an almost identical hat to one of the models. I brush the dust-bunnies from my skirt as I move to get a better view. I’m sitting next to the press photographers. All hunched up together, sitting, standing, crouching; an android with two dozen eyes. What would Charlie Brooker say if he saw them, eh?! I imagine he would roll his eyes deliberately. There’s nothing as annoying as the snapping of the pappa’ during a show. The cameras are so loud they actually create an additional soundtrack, like some sort of rogue percussion instrument. I’m desperate to turn my camera on them and start taking pictures, it feels as though there’s something to document just in the press section. I decide this would be an act of defiance of epic proportions and refrain from listening to the itch of my camera. I look at the audience around me and there are cameras everywhere. iPhones, Nikons, even iPads are held up towards the models.

I put my own SLR down guiltily.

Written by Jessica Cook on Thursday February 21st, 2013 11:50 am

Categories ,A/W 2013, ,Fairytale, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Jessica Cook, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,Louise Smith, ,Lug Von Siga, ,monochrome, ,Orchestral, ,Rosemary Kirton

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