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Amelia’s Magazine | Oliver Spencer: London Fashion Week A/W 2012 Menswear Catwalk Review

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Oliver Spencer A/W 2012 by Gabriel Ayala

I hadn’t spent much time this London Fashion Week at the main show space at Somerset House – the big tent they plonk in the centre of that beautiful courtyard. I’d forgotten what a celebfest it was. As I queued, clutching my printed ticket to my breast, I stood amongst the melee of fashionistas waving their tickets in the air as celebrities were ushered inside, except for the gentlemanly Rick Edwards who politely told the PR girl batting her eyelids that he would queue like everybody else. Swoon.


Oliver Spencer A/W 2012 by Krister Selin

Inside, a frenzy of photographers took pictures of front-rowers and I couldn’t tell who anybody was, apart from remarking to Gareth that I thought I saw a glimpse of Alex Reid. We LOL’d as the show started.

Oliver Spencer is a bit of a maestro when it comes to exquisite tailoring. I’ve been a fan for a while but this was the first show I’d seen. Myself and Gareth had secured goodish seats at the beginning of the catwalk, and despite my reservations, we had a pretty good view of the action.


Oliver Spencer A/W 2012 by Gabriel Ayala

Spencer had taken his inspiration this season from 1970s art-house and the iconic persona of a young Lucien Freud. A wide spectrum of models appeared in the show, from tattooed hipsters to mature gents, each with their own cool kudos.

The show began with said tattooed hipster, who wore a deep red and grey luxury varsity-style jacket with contrast sleeves – a sartorial version of the current trend. Quintessential, English, well-tailored, an effortless fit – buzz words associated with the Oliver Spencer brand.

Next came more cropped wool coats in blues and greys, teamed with tapered trousers and capped-toe oxford shoes. I’m a huge fan of Spencer’s knitwear and this collection came up with the goods. Chunky rollnecks and big scarves worn over the shoulders had a hip retro feel without being fancy dress.

More jackets appeared, and one in particular – a sort of contemporary Fair Isle pattern in navy and white cut above the hip had me swooning more than I did at Rick Edwards‘ courteous approach to queuing. The tattooed hipster modelled it, and I wouldn’t be surprised if there were a few miffed models backstage because he seemed to have been selected to wear the most achingly cool outfits.

A selection of olive and brown jackets came towards the end with a more athletic look about them, worn with looser-fitting trousers. A plaid jacket, buttoned at the top only, was worn over a vibrant red shirt. Some jackets came with cross-over lapels in contrasting colours, worn with camel-coloured trousers. More varsity-style jackets appeared: it seems we’ll all be wearing contrast sleeves come September.


All photography by Matt Bramford

You’ll see from my previous menswear day posts that there are many designers pushing the boundaries of menswear with much whackier collections, but Spencer’s hip appeal with a strong British essence was a welcome break and one that will have sartorial gents begging for more.

Written by Matt Bramford on Thursday March 1st, 2012 8:01 pm

Categories ,1970s, ,A/W 2012, ,Alex Reid, ,Athletic, ,AW12, ,british, ,English, ,Fair Isle, ,Gabriel Ayala, ,knitwear, ,Krister Selin, ,London Fashion Week, ,Lucien Freud, ,Matt Bramford, ,menswear, ,Oliver Spencer, ,Rick Edwards, ,Rollnecks, ,Somerset House, ,tailoring, ,Tattoos, ,turban

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2011 Catwalk Review : Issa

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ISSA catwalk collection S/S 2011

With Illustrations by Natasha Thompson

Hold on to your hats kids, abortion the turban is back! Or it is if Issa has her way.

According to the Brazilian-born designer S/S 11 is also going to be an Indian Summer, discount as she (like the Daks show I saw on Saturday) sent a collection of exotic, richly coloured jersey and silk looks down the catwalk, complete with gem-encrusted accessories and shoes, and jewel-toned turbans wound around the models’ heads.

Apparently ‘India’s evolving cultural influences and imperious architecture’ inspired the collection – but let’s not get too bogged down in the detail. What we saw was a complete summer wardrobe of whimsical day dresses, punchy prints and glammed up evening wear.

There’s nothing challenging here – Issa makes super flattering beachwear and glam, fail-safe party frocks for the Kings Road set – and is known for her dresses that can take you “from the beach to the office and then onto the red carpet”. After five days of non-stop shows, the fash pack were in need of light relief – and Issa’s bright and breezy show seemed to be a welcome antidote to more directional collections. The photographers were certainly grateful – they let out a collective whoop of “Last show of fashion week – wooooooooooarghh!” before it-girl Poppy Delevigne had even taken her seat.

ISSA catwalk collection S/S 2011

Some of the show was a Brazilian take on Bollywood glitz, injected with a shot of sixties glamour. What can only be described as a ‘sexy sari’ appeared in several guises – one shoulder, midriff baring bandeau tops paired with palazzo pants or swishy skirts in Pucci-esque prints. Teamed with antique jewellery from Lucy in Disguise (hence Lily Allen and baby bump on the front row) and strappy bejewelled sandals, these outfits were made for posing poolside with a martini.

The rest was rather a mixed bag – a couple of airy white sundresses here, some eye-popping lace dresses there. The signature party frocks – long with Grecian style draping, or short, cinched in and flirty – were out in full force. But sometimes I just wasn’t getting into that Indian groove.

Luckily, hair and makeup spiced up the show. Apparently the brief was “Veruschka starting out on a road trip in Rajasthan but ending at Burning Man” with “hallucinogenics…definitely involved”. So, naturally, we had turbans aplenty, hair piled high and wild, kohl rimmed eyes.

To be a true Issa girl you evidently need:

a) A slamming body – a lot of the looks are clingy and cut to show off a gym-honed physique, or a tan gained Greek island hopping.
b) A jet-set lifestyle that warrants a wardrobe of slinky party dresses, and a one-shoulder, draped swimsuit.

Looking around at my neighbours, I can see the shiny Eurocrats and glossed up It-girls in the crowd donning Issa’s creations this summer. But what if you aren’t a regular on the pages of Tatler?

Well, being pale, pasty and poor, I am probably NOT an Issa girl – but the clothes still made for a rather fabulous end to fashion week.

Written by Lauren Smith on Friday September 24th, 2010 4:46 pm

Categories ,Bollywood, ,brazil, ,fashion, ,illustration, ,Issa, ,jersey, ,Jewels, ,lily allen, ,london, ,London Fashion Week, ,review, ,S/S 2011, ,Somerset House, ,turban, ,Womenswear

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2011 Catwalk Review : Issa

by

ISSA catwalk collection S/S 2011

With Illustrations by Natasha Thompson

Hold on to your hats kids, abortion the turban is back! Or it is if Issa has her way.

According to the Brazilian-born designer S/S 11 is also going to be an Indian Summer, discount as she (like the Daks show I saw on Saturday) sent a collection of exotic, richly coloured jersey and silk looks down the catwalk, complete with gem-encrusted accessories and shoes, and jewel-toned turbans wound around the models’ heads.

Apparently ‘India’s evolving cultural influences and imperious architecture’ inspired the collection – but let’s not get too bogged down in the detail. What we saw was a complete summer wardrobe of whimsical day dresses, punchy prints and glammed up evening wear.

There’s nothing challenging here – Issa makes super flattering beachwear and glam, fail-safe party frocks for the Kings Road set – and is known for her dresses that can take you “from the beach to the office and then onto the red carpet”. After five days of non-stop shows, the fash pack were in need of light relief – and Issa’s bright and breezy show seemed to be a welcome antidote to more directional collections. The photographers were certainly grateful – they let out a collective whoop of “Last show of fashion week – wooooooooooarghh!” before it-girl Poppy Delevigne had even taken her seat.

ISSA catwalk collection S/S 2011

Some of the show was a Brazilian take on Bollywood glitz, injected with a shot of sixties glamour. What can only be described as a ‘sexy sari’ appeared in several guises – one shoulder, midriff baring bandeau tops paired with palazzo pants or swishy skirts in Pucci-esque prints. Teamed with antique jewellery from Lucy in Disguise (hence Lily Allen and baby bump on the front row) and strappy bejewelled sandals, these outfits were made for posing poolside with a martini.

The rest was rather a mixed bag – a couple of airy white sundresses here, some eye-popping lace dresses there. The signature party frocks – long with Grecian style draping, or short, cinched in and flirty – were out in full force. But sometimes I just wasn’t getting into that Indian groove.

Luckily, hair and makeup spiced up the show. Apparently the brief was “Veruschka starting out on a road trip in Rajasthan but ending at Burning Man” with “hallucinogenics…definitely involved”. So, naturally, we had turbans aplenty, hair piled high and wild, kohl rimmed eyes.

To be a true Issa girl you evidently need:

a) A slamming body – a lot of the looks are clingy and cut to show off a gym-honed physique, or a tan gained Greek island hopping.
b) A jet-set lifestyle that warrants a wardrobe of slinky party dresses, and a one-shoulder, draped swimsuit.

Looking around at my neighbours, I can see the shiny Eurocrats and glossed up It-girls in the crowd donning Issa’s creations this summer. But what if you aren’t a regular on the pages of Tatler?

Well, being pale, pasty and poor, I am probably NOT an Issa girl – but the clothes still made for a rather fabulous end to fashion week.

Written by Lauren Smith on Friday September 24th, 2010 4:46 pm

Categories ,Bollywood, ,brazil, ,fashion, ,illustration, ,Issa, ,jersey, ,Jewels, ,lily allen, ,london, ,London Fashion Week, ,review, ,S/S 2011, ,Somerset House, ,turban, ,Womenswear

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