Amelia’s Magazine | Minnan Hui AW15: London Fashion Week Backstage Photos and Catwalk Video

Minnan Hui AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory
At Minnan Hui the girls perused their mobile phones as they waited to dress for the final walk through. Hair was brushed into messy mini French plaits behind cute coloured braids, and they wore amazing geisha style metallic platforms with socks and further braids at their ankles. Pandora’s Box was inspired by the Greek myth, so the collection was focused on decorative packaging, with extravagant silhouettes and bold use of ribbon details and bright prints.

Minnan Hui AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory
Minnan Hui AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory
Minnan Hui AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory
Minnan Hui AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory
Minnan Hui shoes
Minnan Hui AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory
Minnan Hui AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory
Minnan Hui AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory
All photography by Amelia Gregory.

I wasn’t able to stay for the catwalk show but was thankful for a backstage peek at this fun clothing. Watch the video below to see the full collection in action.

Minnan Hui AW 15/16 from FASHION SCOUT on Vimeo.

Categories ,AW15, ,backstage, ,Fashion Scout, ,Minnan Hui, ,Pandora’s Box

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Amelia’s Magazine | Renli Su: Fashion Scout Ones to Watch, London Fashion Week S/S 2014 Catwalk Review

Renli Su S/S 2014 by Claire Kearns
Renli Su S/S 2014 by Claire Kearns.

Coming up last but by no means least, Chinese designer Renli Su took a very different approach to fashion as one of Ones to Watch. With high aims to create ‘garments that retain physical traces of their past in order to form an intrinsic bond with the wearer‘ her new season collection examined the connection between the lives of working class women in the Victorian era, and the clothes they wore. This translated into a series of earthy toned garments that had more than a touch of the peasant in their boxy shapes, bunched hems, and trailing ribbon ties. The collection was made from a selection of entirely organic fibres, with purposefully loosened hems and distressed seams designed to age appealingly when worn with love over many years. Bonnet inspired headwear, detachable hoods and light weight leg warmers were hand crafted in crochet and knit. This was a sweet collection with some appealing ideas and a big heart at the centre of it all.

Ones to Watch Renli Su SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Renli Su SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Renli Su SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Renli Su SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Renli Su SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Renli Su SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Renli Su SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Renli Su SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Renli Su SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Renli Su SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Renli Su SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Renli Su SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Renli Su with her fellow Ones to Watch. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,Chinese, ,Claire Kearns, ,Ecofashion, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Ones To Watch, ,organic, ,Renli Su

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Amelia’s Magazine | Myrza de Muynck: London Fashion Week A/W 2012 Catwalk Review

Myrza de Muynck A/W 2012 by Faye West
Myrza de Muynck A/W 2012 by Faye West.

Myrza de Muynck is a Dutch designer showing for the first time as part of Fashion Scout’s Ones to Watch. She graduated from Central Saint Martins this year and her focus is on combining luxury embellishments with a youthful sports inspired silhouette – using lots of handpainted prints, embroidery and an 80s-esque pastel palette.

Ones to Watch Myrza de Muynck AW 2012  photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Myrza de Muynck AW 2012  photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Myrza de Muynck AW 2012  photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Myrza de Muynck AW 2012  photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Myrza de Muynck AW 2012  photo by Amelia Gregory
Myrza de Muynck A/W 2012 by Faye West
Myrza de Muynck A/W 2012 by Faye West.

Stomping down the catwalk, ponytails swinging, girls wore minty tracksuit combos, scallop edged puff collared cardigans and loosely knitted leggings. Lightweight cream zippered jackets and skinny shorts might not be everyone’s winter taste, but when paired with bursts of pillar box red or black I can see how they would work for a certain brave kind of woman.

Ones to Watch Myrza de Muynck AW 2012  photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Myrza de Muynck AW 2012  photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Myrza de Muynck AW 2012  photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Myrza de Muynck AW 2012  photo by Amelia Gregory
Myrza de Muynck AW 2012 by Rebecca Strickson
Myrza de Muynck A/W 2012 by Rebecca Strickson.

Categories ,A/W 2012, ,catwalk, ,Central Saint Martins, ,embroidery, ,Fashion Scout, ,Faye West, ,lfw, ,Luxe, ,Myrza de Muynck, ,Ones To Watch, ,pastels, ,Rebecca Strickson, ,review, ,sportswear

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Amelia’s Magazine | Napsugar Von Bittera: London Fashion Week A/W 2014 Presentation Review

Napsugar Von Bittera By Sangita Kumari

Napsugar Von Bittera by Sangita Kumari.

Hungarian designer Napsugar Von Bittera put together a pop art inspired presentation at Fashion Scout, with models posing around and against set pieces which included a gargantuan packet of popcorn and a giant lollipop. Models wore louche up-dos, red lips and cut out heels with red socks peeping through. Laser cut leather in deep blue, black and white was crafted into highly wearable dresses, jackets and swing skirts with zip detailing.

Napsugar AW 2014-blue jacket photography by Amelia Gregory

Napsugar AW 2014-black dress photography by Amelia Gregory

All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,A/W 2014, ,Fashion Scout, ,Hungarian, ,Napsugar von Bittera, ,Sangita Kumari

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Amelia’s Magazine | Nian by Nihan Buruk: London Fashion Week S/S 2014 Catwalk Review

Nian S/S 2014 by  Gaarte
Nian S/S 2014 by Gaarte.

Nian was one of a slew of Turkish designers at Fashion Scout this season, showcasing a commercial collection that featured both womens and menswear, the latter casually modelled by some burly specimens with impressive tattoos. For womenswear the collection mixed a sportswear vibe with tailored offerings in the form of sweet chiffon sleeveless shirts and pencil skirts, sweeping silk dresses worn on top of swimwear and a particularly cute silk shorts suit – all rendered in a palette of cream, slate grey, lime and dusky blue. Patterns of barbed wire and crossed bird wings featured throughout, both prints created by designer Nihan Buruk as a response to the political turmoil of recent times. This was a concise offering that should do well if the right buyers find it.

Nian S/S 2014 by  Gaarte
Nian S/S 2014 by Gaarte.

Nian SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Nian SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Nian SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Nian SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Nian SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Nian SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Nian SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Nian SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Nian SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Nian S/S 2014. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,Fashion Scout, ,Gaarte, ,Nian, ,Nihan Buruk, ,review, ,S/S 2014

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Menswear Day Catwalk Review: Ones to Watch Baartmans and Siegel

Baartmans and Siegel SS 2012 by Barb Royal
Baartmans and Siegel S/S 2012 by Barb Royal.

Baartmans and Siegel are already making waves in menswear land: the upcoming brand is stocked by Harrods. A look at their S/S 2012 collection reveals why. It is an easy going range of summery suits, remedy accessories and separates in perfect boy tones: lots of pewter, store stone, price dusty blue and dashes of orange and caramel. Of particular note were the chunky leather satchels, snood silk scarves and cosy striped handknit cotton cardigans and jumpers, all worn with comfy brogues by classic shoemakers Grenson.

LFW_SS12_OnestoWatchMen_BaartmansSiegel_MattBramford
LFW_SS12_OnestoWatchMen_BaartmansSiegel_MattBramford
LFW_SS12_OnestoWatchMen_BaartmansSiegel_MattBramford
LFW_SS12_OnestoWatchMen_BaartmansSiegel_MattBramford
LFW_SS12_OnestoWatchMen_BaartmansSiegel_MattBramford
LFW_SS12_OnestoWatchMen_BaartmansSiegel_MattBramford
All photography by Matt Bramford.

Baartmans Siegel LFW by Katie Allen
Baartmans Siegel S/S 2012 by Katie Allen.

Wouter Baartman and Amber Siegel are a Dutch/English design partnership who met whilst designing at Viktor & Rolf and became united over their love of beautiful craftsmanship and imaginative design.

Ones to Watch men Baartmans and Siegel SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men Baartmans and Siegel SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men Baartmans and Siegel SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men Baartmans and Siegel SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men Baartmans and Siegel SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men Baartmans and Siegel SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men Baartmans and Siegel SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men Baartmans and Siegel SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men Baartmans and Siegel SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Baartmans and Siegel (SS-2012) by Barb Royal
Baartmans and Siegel S/S 2012 by Barb Royal.

The Dust Drifters collection was inspired by the colours of an arid landscape, perfect for the modern traveller and Baartmans and Siegel‘s use of quality fabrics such as Irish linen and silk crepe contributes to the air of luxury. They describe themselves as ‘modern traditionalists’ and it’s easy to see how this ethos has been translated into clothing. Beautiful.

Ones to Watch men Baartmans and Siegel SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,Amber Siegel, ,Barb Royal, ,Dust Drifters, ,dutch, ,English, ,Fashion Scout, ,Grenson, ,Handknit, ,Harrods, ,Katie Allen, ,lfw, ,Luxury, ,Matt Bramford, ,menswear, ,Ones To Watch, ,S/S 2012, ,Silk Crepe, ,Wouter Baartman

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Amelia’s Magazine | Nova Chiu: London Fashion Week A/W 2012 Catwalk Review

Nova Chiu A/W 2012 by Ellen Li
Nova Chiu A/W 2012 by Ellen Li.

The much anticipated Nova Chiu collection took the finale spot with Ones to Watch this season. We were of course very excited to see the progress of this label, which was much lauded at the LCF graduate shows last summer, and which we covered in a preview just last week. This time around Nova Chiu comprises of the design duo of Nova Chiu and designer Jeff Archer, whom she met whilst interning with Anna Sui in New York.

Nova Chiu A/W 2012 by Claire Jones
Nova Chiu A/W 2012 by Claire Jones.

Ones to Watch Nova Chiu AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Nova Chiu AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Nova Chiu AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory Ones to Watch Nova Chiu AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Nova Chiu AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Nova Chiu AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones_to_Watch_Nova_Chiu_by_Barb_Royal
Nova Chiu A/W 2012 by Barb Royal.

This was an expectedly colourful collection of clashing fabrics and colours that drew on tribal and peasant influences and cheerfully married them with the modern – witness brightly patterned leggings, dangling tassel earrings, intense strips of embroidery, triangular pleated waist peplums, furry all in one suits and zany oversized earmuffs. It certainly proved that Nova Chiu have a signature style to watch, and cemented their place as a fashion label much beloved of illustrators. We can’t wait to see what next season brings.

Nova Chiu A/W 2012 by Claire Jones
Nova Chiu A/W 2012 by Claire Jones.

Ones to Watch Nova Chiu AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Nova Chiu AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Nova Chiu AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Nova Chiu AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Nova Chiu AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
NOVA CHIU AW 2012 by Nicola Ellen
Nova Chiu A/W 2012 by Nicola Ellen.

Ones to Watch Nova Chiu AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Nova Chiu AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Nova Chiu AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Nova Chiu AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Nova Chiu AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Nova_Chiu_by_Barb_Royal
Nova Chiu A/W 2012 by Barb Royal.

Don’t forget to read our preview blog post about Nova Chiu.

Categories ,A/W 2012, ,Anna Sui, ,Barb Royal, ,Claire Jones, ,Ellen Li, ,Fashion Scout, ,Jeff Archer, ,lfw, ,new york, ,Nicola Ellen, ,Nova Chiu, ,Ones To Watch

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Menswear Day Catwalk Review: Ones to Watch KYE

KYE S/S 2012 by Katie Allen
KYE S/S 2012 by Katie Allen.

Ones to Watch menswear finished with the most outrageous designer: KYE. Live and Let Live featured plenty of glitzy gold decoration in the form of glittery DMs, viagra dosage foiled prints of skeleton uzis and even a life size crystal encrusted gun bag strapped across a bare chest. Inspired by the images of conflicts and violence that saturate our news networks, dosage this was not a collection for the feint hearted.

LFW_SS12_OnestoWatchMen_KYE_MattBramford
Photography by Matt Bramford.

Ones to Watch men KYE SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men KYE SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men KYE SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men KYE SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men KYE SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men KYE SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men KYE SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men KYE SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men KYE SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
KYE SS 2012 by Barb Royal
KYE S/S 2012 by Barb Royal.

Woven tasselled scarves worn in multiple around wrists and ankles, ed on heads and around faces were a nod towards Palestinian fashion – even appearing in a full matching shirts and shorts suit with neon guns emblazoned in embroidery on the back.

Ones to Watch men KYE SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men KYE SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men KYE SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men KYE SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men KYE SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men KYE SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
KYE S/S 2012 by Barb Royal.
KYE S/S 2012 by Barb Royal.

Having grown up in a separated country Korean born designer Kathleen Hanhee Kye pokes fun at excessive militarism, but this was always going to be difficult ground to tread – I am sure that as many people will find this collection distasteful as find it entertaining. Still, whoever said fashion could not cause us to pause and think, or even antagonise? One thing is certain, Live and Let Live was a fun and different way to round up S/S 2012 menswear Ones to Watch.

LFW_SS12_OnestoWatchMen_KYE_MattBramford
LFW_SS12_OnestoWatchMen_KYE_MattBramford
LFW_SS12_OnestoWatchMen_KYE_MattBramford
LFW_SS12_OnestoWatchMen_KYE_MattBramford
LFW_SS12_OnestoWatchMen_KYE_MattBramford
LFW_SS12_OnestoWatchMen_KYE_MattBramford
LFW_SS12_OnestoWatchMen_KYE_MattBramford
LFW_SS12_OnestoWatchMen_KYE_MattBramford
Photography by Matt Bramford.

Kathleen Hanhee Kye holds a BA and MA in menswear from Central Saint Martins. She hopes to branch out into womenswear next season: I’m intrigued to see what this will look like.

Ones to Watch men KYE SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,Barb Royal, ,Central Saint Martins, ,Fashion Scout, ,Glitzy, ,Gold, ,Kathleen Hanhee Kye, ,Katie Allen, ,Korean, ,KYE, ,KYE Fashion, ,lfw, ,Live and Let Live, ,London Fashion Week, ,Matt Bramford, ,menswear, ,Militarism, ,Ones To Watch, ,Palestine

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Amelia’s Magazine | Nova Chiu: London Fashion Week A/W 2013 Catwalk Review

Nova Chiu AW2013 by Gaarte
Nova Chiu A/W 2013 by Gaarte

The ethereal eruption of colour and texture at Nova Chiu was a perfect way to end a tiring first day at London Fashion Week.

Nova Chiu AW 2013 by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu AW 2013 by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Following last season’s showcase of a light and predominantly print-based collection, the house of Nova Chiu brought the label back to it’s roots of heavy embroidery and embellishments for A/W 2013.

Nova Chiu AW 2013 by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu by Laura Hickman
Nova Chiu A/W 2013 by Laura Hickman

An immensely exciting colour palette was on display – a mix of piercing neons and rich earthy tones, much like The Electronic Super Highway’ by Korean-American artist Nam June Paik, an evident inspiration to the collection. Eclectic blends of material were also used – coloured leather, suede and horsehair blocks with embroideries and beaded trims, giving a three dimensional depth to the clothes.

Nova Chiu AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu AW by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu AW by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu by Shy Illustrations
Nova Chiu A/W 2013 by Shy Illustrations

The garments coming down the runway were beautiful and meticulously crafted, but I found myself distracted by how bright the set lights were; unfortunately this made all the models skin look patchy with caked on foundation. Lighting aside, design duo Nova Chiu and Jeff Archer impressed with a dynamic collection that featured designs true to the label’s initial aesthetics and that are wearable enough to sell.

Categories ,A/W 2013, ,catwalk, ,collection, ,colour, ,fashion, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Gaarte, ,garments, ,illustration, ,Jeff Archer, ,Laura Hickman, ,london, ,London Fashion Week, ,Nam June Paik, ,Neon, ,Nova Chiu, ,runway, ,Shy Illustrations, ,Texture, ,The Electronic Super Highway

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Menswear Day Catwalk Review: Ones to Watch Posthuman Wardrobe

Posthuman Wardrobe S/S 2012 by HoBoJoBo
Posthuman Wardrobe S/S 2012 by HoBoJoBo.

Driven by a desire to offer clothing that is rich with intellectual analysis as well as aesthetics, sale Posthuman Wardrobe delivered a thoroughly summery collection for Ones to Watch menswear at Fashion Scout. Designer Nimesha Gadhia is a pharmaceutical scientist turned Saville Row trained tailor and within this collection he looked at aspects of the interaction between people and furniture when lounging or sitting, malady incorporating upholstery fabrics.

Ones to Watch men Posthuman Wardrobe SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men Posthuman Wardrobe SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men Posthuman Wardrobe SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men Posthuman Wardrobe SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Posthuman Wardrobe S/S 2012 Dennis Brix
Posthuman Wardrobe S/S 2012 Dennis Brix.

For All Systems Gone there was a mixture of tailored and casual separates in a range of dust and pastel blues, cream, stone and grey with slashes of blood red as highlights. A loosely tailored trenchcoat was worn with rolled up sleeves and double breasted buttoning. Hooding was incorporated into jackets with sporty striped detailing but also featured as snood like accessories. A long coat came with an interesting ruched back, a bit like a waterfall. There was also plenty of men with bare chests – perhaps not a look to emulate but always a rather nice additional feature.

LFW_SS12_OnestoWatchMen_PostHumanWardrobe_MattBramford
LFW_SS12_OnestoWatchMen_PostHumanWardrobe_MattBramford
LFW_SS12_OnestoWatchMen_PostHumanWardrobe_MattBramford
LFW_SS12_OnestoWatchMen_PostHumanWardrobe_MattBramford
LFW_SS12_OnestoWatchMen_PostHumanWardrobe_MattBramford
LFW_SS12_OnestoWatchMen_PostHumanWardrobe_MattBramford
LFW_SS12_OnestoWatchMen_PostHumanWardrobe_MattBramford
LFW_SS12_OnestoWatchMen_PostHumanWardrobe_MattBramford
All photography by Matt Bramford.

Posthuman Wardrobe S/S 2012 by Gareth A Hopkins
Posthuman Wardrobe S/S 2012 by Gareth A Hopkins
Posthuman Wardrobe S/S 2012 by Gareth A Hopkins.

Ones to Watch men Posthuman Wardrobe SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men Posthuman Wardrobe SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men Posthuman Wardrobe SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men Posthuman Wardrobe SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men Posthuman Wardrobe SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,All Systems Gone, ,Dennis Brix, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Gareth A Hopkins, ,HoBoJoBo, ,Intellectual, ,London Fashion Week, ,Matt Bramford, ,menswear, ,Nimesha Gadhia, ,Ones To Watch, ,Posthuman Wardrobe. LFW, ,review, ,S/S 2012, ,Saville Row, ,Scientist, ,Sitting, ,Upholstery

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