Amelia’s Magazine | Min Wu: Ones to Watch S/S 2015 London Fashion Week Preview

Min Wu by Karolina Burdon
Min Wu A/W 2014 by Karolina Burdon.

I’ve been keeping an eye on Chinese born London College of Fashion alumni Min Wu for some seasons now, ever since I picked out her work at the 2013 LCF MA graduate show, held at the illustrious Royal Opera House. She’s already done a few presentations with Fashion Scout but this season she will be on the catwalk as one of Fashion Scout’s Ones to Watch. I caught up with her for a quick sneak preview of what to expect this season.

Min Wu AW 2014
Min Wu A/W 2014.

What or who are the biggest influences on your approach to fashion?
My approach has developed with my life experience, alongside the article that I have read or the exhibitions that I have been. I like to keep moving forward.

Where do you get inspiration for your subtle colour combinations from?
I get inspired by photographs and paintings, then use drawings to translate my ideas into my own language. I try many different combinations until I find the best one.


Min Wu S/S 2015 preview
Min Wu S/S 2015 preview
Min Wu S/S 2015 preview.

What can we expect from your new season collection?
I used some light jelly fabric which kind of looks yummy.


You are adept with merging the high tech with the traditional, have you ever encountered any issues with this approach?
Issues aways appears when you try to do something interesting, but up until now I have handled it well. Both high tech and traditional techniques come at a high cost, but I have been trying very hard to work this out.


You’ve been presenting at LFW for a few seasons now, what have you learnt over that period?
Definitely, it is such a precious experience to work with a team members, and I am constantly learning about how to catch the attention of press and also make buyers and customers happy. I am still learning.

Categories ,Chinese, ,Fashion Scout, ,Karolina Burdon, ,London College of Fashion, ,Min Wu, ,Ones To Watch, ,Royal Opera House

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Amelia’s Magazine | Patrick Li: Fashion Scout Ones to Watch A/W 2013 Catwalk Review

Patrick Li A/W 2013 by Sylwia Szyszka
Patrick Li A/W 2013 by Sylwia Szyszka.

We profiled Patrick Li as one of our favourite Ones to Watch before London Fashion Week, and now it’s time to catch up with his catwalk show.

ones to watch patrick li AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
ones to watch patrick li AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
ones to watch patrick li AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
ones to watch patrick li AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Patrick Li A/W 2013 by Sylwia Szyszka
Patrick Li A/W 2013 by Sylwia Szyszka.

I had an inkling of what to expect from Ones to Watch stylist Rebekah Roy, who was wearing a collar fashioned out of the glittery material that Patrick Li used through out his gorgeous tailored collection. Models strode out to bassy beats in sleek ponytails and simple heels, some with a covered ankle feature all the better to show off plentiful asymmetric hemlines.

ones to watch patrick li AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
ones to watch patrick li AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
ones to watch patrick li AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
ones to watch patrick li AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Patrick Li A/W 2013 by youdesignme
Patrick Li A/W 2013 by youdesignme.

A series of predominantly black minidresses were given the layered treatment, with glitter peeking out from beneath sharp diagonal hems, at waists or on the seams that draped across the body. Crushed velvet made an outing in dusky mink and tapered crop trousers were worn with simple white shirts. Box-shouldered coats came in crop, mid and long versions, all eminently wearable. This was a thoroughly modern collection with great sales potential, and I look forward to watching what the talented Patrick Li does next.

ones to watch patrick li AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
ones to watch patrick li AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
ones to watch patrick li AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
ones to watch patrick li AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Susie Lau of Style Bubble checks out Ones to Watch. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,A/W 2013, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Ones To Watch, ,Patrick Li, ,Rebekah Roy, ,review, ,Style Bubble, ,Susie Lau, ,Sylwia Szyszka, ,youdesignme

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Amelia’s Magazine | Ming Pin Tien: London Fashion Week S/S 2013 Catwalk Review

Ming Pin Tien SS13 by Kristina Vasiljeva
Ming Pin Tien S/S 2013 by Kristina Vasiljeva.

This season’s hotly anticipated Ones to Watch show opened with the clothes of Ming Pin Tien, a graduate of the London College of Fashion. The Taiwanese designer put on a great show, with a diverse collection that featured graphic prints, sharp tailoring and conceptual textures.

Ones to Watch Ming SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Ming SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Ming SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Ming SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Ming SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
First out a were range of layered pieces with a sort of tyre track design up the back: a placement print (they’re hot right now) that traversed all the garments being worn. His next print was artfully jagged in black, russet and maroon on a cream ground, then a starburst pattern erupted with stylish intent across a collar.

Ones to Watch Ming SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Ming SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Ming SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Ming SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Ming S/S 2013. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Colours that don’t normally match were thrown together: khaki green, lime, aquamarine, skin and russet. Gathered crop tops with back flaps and cropped trousers left no hiding place for the midriff. Flaps are big this season: that and swing shapes and double breasted styling, all of which were present and correct in this on trend collection. His final garment was a stunning overcoat which appeared to be constructed from leather strips fastened together with hoops and rivets. There were lots of ideas going on here without it seeming overly messy and complex: I can’t wait to see how this designer develops.

Ming Pin Tien S/S 2013 by Antonia Parker.
Ming Pin Tien S/S 2013 by Antonia Parker.

Categories ,Antonia Parker, ,Fashion Scout, ,Kristina Vasiljeva, ,lfw, ,London College of Fashion, ,Ming Pin Tien, ,Ones To Watch, ,S/S 2013, ,Taiwanese

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Amelia’s Magazine | Prose Studio: London Fashion Week A/W 2012 Catwalk Review

Prose A/W 2012 by Joe Waldron
Prose A/W 2012 by Joe Waldron.

As regular readers will know we’ve been fans of Prose Studio for awhile, so it was very exciting to see them showing once more at London Fashion Week this season – a decision based on the opportunity to show alongside some of the most exciting upcoming designers in fashion, a place that suits Prose well. Designer Miriam Lehle is based in Germany but after an appearance with On/Off in 2009 she returned to the UK last season to show at the main stands in Somerset House. For A/W 2012 she took to the catwalk once more with Fashion Scout.

Prose Studio AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Prose Studio AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Prose Studio AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Prose Studio AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Prose A/W 2012 by Natalie Lines
Prose A/W 2012 by Natalie Lines.

Each season Miriam Lehle explores a new and very different theme, but a core love of baggy, boxy shapes and unorthodox textures remains essential to each collection. This time around she focused on squared-off shapes in muted tones of midnight, ochre and chestnut, which were adorned with different types of contrasting layered fringing – a look which worked especially well on a round shouldered caplet that was worn with sumptuous harem-style burnt orange velvet trousers.

Prose Studio AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Prose Studio AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Prose Studio AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Prose Studio AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Prose A/W 2012 by Claire Jones
Prose A/W 2012 by Claire Jones.

The collection was teamed with sensible lace up shoes, slicked back wet-look hair, strong brows and red lips. A dash of mustard yellow brought a light lift and the exposed back on an asymmetric dress lent a sexy edge to an otherwise slightly androgynous collection.

Prose Studio AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Prose Studio AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Prose Studio AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Prose A/W 2012 by Sara Pateraki
Prose A/W 2012 by Sara Pateraki.

Tasselled fringing came in stiffened patent leather, which also appeared as a patchwork material for skirts and trousers. This was juxtaposed against yarn based fringing which created a softer, almost fluffy, silhouette in vertical and horizontal stripes.

Prose Studio AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Prose Studio AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Prose Studio AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Prose Studio A/W 2012 by Barb Royal
Prose Studio A/W 2012 by Barb Royal.

A favourite garment was a marbled red silk dress which featured the boxy relaxed shape that Prose is known for – and interesting peaked ruffles on the shoulders that echoed the high gathered waist.

Prose Studio AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Prose Studio AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Prose Studio AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Prose Studio AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Prose Studio A/W 2012 by Barb Royal
Prose Studio A/W 2012 by Barb Royal
Prose Studio A/W 2012 by Barb Royal.

The A/W 2012 collection from Prose was confident and polished: without a doubt Miriam Lehle will have converted a whole new army of fans.

Prose Studio AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Prose Studio AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Prose Studio AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Prose Studio AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Prose Studio AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Prose Studio AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Prose A/W 2012 by Kristina Grundberg
Prose A/W 2012 by Kristina Grundberg.

Categories ,A/W 2012, ,Barb Royal, ,catwalk, ,Claire Jones, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Joe Waldron, ,Kristina Grundberg, ,lfw, ,Miriam Lehle, ,Natalie Lines, ,Prose Studio, ,review, ,Sara Pateraki

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Amelia’s Magazine | Minnan Hui AW15: London Fashion Week Backstage Photos and Catwalk Video

Minnan Hui AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory
At Minnan Hui the girls perused their mobile phones as they waited to dress for the final walk through. Hair was brushed into messy mini French plaits behind cute coloured braids, and they wore amazing geisha style metallic platforms with socks and further braids at their ankles. Pandora’s Box was inspired by the Greek myth, so the collection was focused on decorative packaging, with extravagant silhouettes and bold use of ribbon details and bright prints.

Minnan Hui AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory
Minnan Hui AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory
Minnan Hui AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory
Minnan Hui AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory
Minnan Hui shoes
Minnan Hui AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory
Minnan Hui AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory
Minnan Hui AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory
All photography by Amelia Gregory.

I wasn’t able to stay for the catwalk show but was thankful for a backstage peek at this fun clothing. Watch the video below to see the full collection in action.

Minnan Hui AW 15/16 from FASHION SCOUT on Vimeo.

Categories ,AW15, ,backstage, ,Fashion Scout, ,Minnan Hui, ,Pandora’s Box

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Amelia’s Magazine | Renli Su: Fashion Scout Ones to Watch, London Fashion Week S/S 2014 Catwalk Review

Renli Su S/S 2014 by Claire Kearns
Renli Su S/S 2014 by Claire Kearns.

Coming up last but by no means least, Chinese designer Renli Su took a very different approach to fashion as one of Ones to Watch. With high aims to create ‘garments that retain physical traces of their past in order to form an intrinsic bond with the wearer‘ her new season collection examined the connection between the lives of working class women in the Victorian era, and the clothes they wore. This translated into a series of earthy toned garments that had more than a touch of the peasant in their boxy shapes, bunched hems, and trailing ribbon ties. The collection was made from a selection of entirely organic fibres, with purposefully loosened hems and distressed seams designed to age appealingly when worn with love over many years. Bonnet inspired headwear, detachable hoods and light weight leg warmers were hand crafted in crochet and knit. This was a sweet collection with some appealing ideas and a big heart at the centre of it all.

Ones to Watch Renli Su SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Renli Su SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Renli Su SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Renli Su SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Renli Su SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Renli Su SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Renli Su SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Renli Su SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Renli Su SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Renli Su SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Renli Su SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Renli Su SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Renli Su with her fellow Ones to Watch. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,Chinese, ,Claire Kearns, ,Ecofashion, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Ones To Watch, ,organic, ,Renli Su

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Amelia’s Magazine | Myrza de Muynck: London Fashion Week A/W 2012 Catwalk Review

Myrza de Muynck A/W 2012 by Faye West
Myrza de Muynck A/W 2012 by Faye West.

Myrza de Muynck is a Dutch designer showing for the first time as part of Fashion Scout’s Ones to Watch. She graduated from Central Saint Martins this year and her focus is on combining luxury embellishments with a youthful sports inspired silhouette – using lots of handpainted prints, embroidery and an 80s-esque pastel palette.

Ones to Watch Myrza de Muynck AW 2012  photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Myrza de Muynck AW 2012  photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Myrza de Muynck AW 2012  photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Myrza de Muynck AW 2012  photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Myrza de Muynck AW 2012  photo by Amelia Gregory
Myrza de Muynck A/W 2012 by Faye West
Myrza de Muynck A/W 2012 by Faye West.

Stomping down the catwalk, ponytails swinging, girls wore minty tracksuit combos, scallop edged puff collared cardigans and loosely knitted leggings. Lightweight cream zippered jackets and skinny shorts might not be everyone’s winter taste, but when paired with bursts of pillar box red or black I can see how they would work for a certain brave kind of woman.

Ones to Watch Myrza de Muynck AW 2012  photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Myrza de Muynck AW 2012  photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Myrza de Muynck AW 2012  photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch Myrza de Muynck AW 2012  photo by Amelia Gregory
Myrza de Muynck AW 2012 by Rebecca Strickson
Myrza de Muynck A/W 2012 by Rebecca Strickson.

Categories ,A/W 2012, ,catwalk, ,Central Saint Martins, ,embroidery, ,Fashion Scout, ,Faye West, ,lfw, ,Luxe, ,Myrza de Muynck, ,Ones To Watch, ,pastels, ,Rebecca Strickson, ,review, ,sportswear

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Amelia’s Magazine | Napsugar Von Bittera: London Fashion Week A/W 2014 Presentation Review

Napsugar Von Bittera By Sangita Kumari

Napsugar Von Bittera by Sangita Kumari.

Hungarian designer Napsugar Von Bittera put together a pop art inspired presentation at Fashion Scout, with models posing around and against set pieces which included a gargantuan packet of popcorn and a giant lollipop. Models wore louche up-dos, red lips and cut out heels with red socks peeping through. Laser cut leather in deep blue, black and white was crafted into highly wearable dresses, jackets and swing skirts with zip detailing.

Napsugar AW 2014-blue jacket photography by Amelia Gregory

Napsugar AW 2014-black dress photography by Amelia Gregory

All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,A/W 2014, ,Fashion Scout, ,Hungarian, ,Napsugar von Bittera, ,Sangita Kumari

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Amelia’s Magazine | Nian by Nihan Buruk: London Fashion Week S/S 2014 Catwalk Review

Nian S/S 2014 by  Gaarte
Nian S/S 2014 by Gaarte.

Nian was one of a slew of Turkish designers at Fashion Scout this season, showcasing a commercial collection that featured both womens and menswear, the latter casually modelled by some burly specimens with impressive tattoos. For womenswear the collection mixed a sportswear vibe with tailored offerings in the form of sweet chiffon sleeveless shirts and pencil skirts, sweeping silk dresses worn on top of swimwear and a particularly cute silk shorts suit – all rendered in a palette of cream, slate grey, lime and dusky blue. Patterns of barbed wire and crossed bird wings featured throughout, both prints created by designer Nihan Buruk as a response to the political turmoil of recent times. This was a concise offering that should do well if the right buyers find it.

Nian S/S 2014 by  Gaarte
Nian S/S 2014 by Gaarte.

Nian SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Nian SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Nian SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Nian SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Nian SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Nian SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Nian SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Nian SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Nian SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Nian S/S 2014. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,Fashion Scout, ,Gaarte, ,Nian, ,Nihan Buruk, ,review, ,S/S 2014

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Menswear Day Catwalk Review: Ones to Watch Baartmans and Siegel

Baartmans and Siegel SS 2012 by Barb Royal
Baartmans and Siegel S/S 2012 by Barb Royal.

Baartmans and Siegel are already making waves in menswear land: the upcoming brand is stocked by Harrods. A look at their S/S 2012 collection reveals why. It is an easy going range of summery suits, remedy accessories and separates in perfect boy tones: lots of pewter, store stone, price dusty blue and dashes of orange and caramel. Of particular note were the chunky leather satchels, snood silk scarves and cosy striped handknit cotton cardigans and jumpers, all worn with comfy brogues by classic shoemakers Grenson.

LFW_SS12_OnestoWatchMen_BaartmansSiegel_MattBramford
LFW_SS12_OnestoWatchMen_BaartmansSiegel_MattBramford
LFW_SS12_OnestoWatchMen_BaartmansSiegel_MattBramford
LFW_SS12_OnestoWatchMen_BaartmansSiegel_MattBramford
LFW_SS12_OnestoWatchMen_BaartmansSiegel_MattBramford
LFW_SS12_OnestoWatchMen_BaartmansSiegel_MattBramford
All photography by Matt Bramford.

Baartmans Siegel LFW by Katie Allen
Baartmans Siegel S/S 2012 by Katie Allen.

Wouter Baartman and Amber Siegel are a Dutch/English design partnership who met whilst designing at Viktor & Rolf and became united over their love of beautiful craftsmanship and imaginative design.

Ones to Watch men Baartmans and Siegel SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men Baartmans and Siegel SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men Baartmans and Siegel SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men Baartmans and Siegel SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men Baartmans and Siegel SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men Baartmans and Siegel SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men Baartmans and Siegel SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men Baartmans and Siegel SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ones to Watch men Baartmans and Siegel SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Baartmans and Siegel (SS-2012) by Barb Royal
Baartmans and Siegel S/S 2012 by Barb Royal.

The Dust Drifters collection was inspired by the colours of an arid landscape, perfect for the modern traveller and Baartmans and Siegel‘s use of quality fabrics such as Irish linen and silk crepe contributes to the air of luxury. They describe themselves as ‘modern traditionalists’ and it’s easy to see how this ethos has been translated into clothing. Beautiful.

Ones to Watch men Baartmans and Siegel SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,Amber Siegel, ,Barb Royal, ,Dust Drifters, ,dutch, ,English, ,Fashion Scout, ,Grenson, ,Handknit, ,Harrods, ,Katie Allen, ,lfw, ,Luxury, ,Matt Bramford, ,menswear, ,Ones To Watch, ,S/S 2012, ,Silk Crepe, ,Wouter Baartman

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