Amelia’s Magazine | Graduate Fashion Week 2010: Nottingham Trent


Danielle Reed, viagra buy illustrated by Gabriel Ayala

The Central Lancashire show was an upbeat, patriotic affair. Models strutted down the catwalk to a stonking soundtrack provided by students from the performing arts department, and we waved collections along with the cute Union Jack flags left on each seat.  

The clothes were a lot of fun too – with the standout students playing around with conventional British icons – from Beefeaters and Big Ben to British school uniforms.  

Kirsty Stringfellow created interesting textures with her whimsical collection of knitted designs. Column dresses in thick, appliquéd floral cream ruched across the models’ chests like a curtain, and were adorned with sparkly crochet, printed lace and gold netting. Whilst some of the curtain-esque dresses seemed a little heavy, Stringfellow is clearly gifted at manipulating different textures – the fine-knit cream designs with intricate layers of ruffles were sheer romance.  


Kirsty Stringfellow, illustrated by Zarina Liew

On the other end of the scale, Danielle Reed and Rachel Wolstenhome both had fun with a tough, urban take on sportswear. Reed paired white bobby socks with black Dr. Martens, black grommet-laced waistcoats with slouchy joggers and manipulated aertex fabric into loose jumpsuits. The effect was a strong collection of grunge-inspired sportswear, with PVC fabrics and a monochrome palette adding a gothic edge.  


Danielle Reed, illustrated by Gabriel Ayala

Wolstenhome created the sole male collection on show, and her futuristic sportswear borrowed shapes and fabrics from a manner of sportswear, a mash up of scuba-esque one-pieces, foam hoods, and deconstructed jersey sweat pants, with cut-out holes and harem-style drapes and folds.  

Rachel Wolstenholme, illustrated by Aniela Murphy

A special mention should also go to Sunny Kular for her attempt to spice up school uniforms with Indian elements. We loved seeing that boring grey fabric we remember from our school days twisted into sari shapes, ties and blazers in Ikat prints and jackets emblazoned with a ‘Ganesh’ school badge.  


Sunny Kalar, illustrated by Donna McKenzie

But UCLAN’s strongest suits are clearly printed textiles, forming the basis of two of the most eye-catching collections.  

Jessica Thompson’s surreal collection of printed designs was full of quirky, cartoonish imagery, manipulated onto a spectrum of designs, from fitted shift dresses to sporty anoraks. Everything demanded attention, from the Beefeater printed slip that made the model into a marching drummer, to the dreamy shifts emblazoned with chimps and birds.

Some images were distorted into unrecognisable shapes and quirky patterns, forcing a closer look.  The final piece was a red, floor length printed mac, that looked like it was printed with moon craters – the coolest cover up for a rainy day.  


Jessica Thompson, illustrated by Gemma Milly

Saving the best till last – Sara Wadsworth’s amazing printed collection chimed with the patriotic mood. The whole collection was crafted in chiffon, printed with British icons – the Union Jack, Big Ben the London Eye and what looked like parts of Trafalgar Square, all blown up, re-sized, and patterned across wisps of fabric.


Sara Wadsworth, illustrated by Abi Daker

Wadsworth let the prints do the talking, choosing almost sheer chiffon in muted shades of grey, white and occasional splashes of olives and teal. Bright yellow bras peeked out from beneath the designs, ranging from floor length kaftans to a Vivienne Westwood-esque draped dress, and a sweet smock top and short combo. Who would have thought our most touristy landmarks could be re-imagined into such wearable designs?

Images courtesy of catwalking.com

Danielle Reed, pills illustrated by Gabriel Ayala

The Central Lancashire show was an upbeat, cialis 40mg patriotic affair. Models strutted down the catwalk to a stonking soundtrack provided by students from the performing arts department, and we waved collections along with the cute Union Jack flags left on each seat.  

The clothes were a lot of fun too – with the standout students playing around with conventional British icons – from Beefeaters and Big Ben to British school uniforms.  

Kirsty Stringfellow created interesting textures with her whimsical collection of knitted designs. Column dresses in thick, appliquéd floral cream ruched across the models’ chests like a curtain, and were adorned with sparkly crochet, printed lace and gold netting. Whilst some of the curtain-esque dresses seemed a little heavy, Stringfellow is clearly gifted at manipulating different textures – the fine-knit cream designs with intricate layers of ruffles were sheer romance.  


Kirsty Stringfellow, illustrated by Zarina Liew

On the other end of the scale, Danielle Reed and Rachel Wolstenhome both had fun with a tough, urban take on sportswear. Reed paired white bobby socks with black Dr. Martens, black grommet-laced waistcoats with slouchy joggers and manipulated aertex fabric into loose jumpsuits. The effect was a strong collection of grunge-inspired sportswear, with PVC fabrics and a monochrome palette adding a gothic edge.  


Danielle Reed, illustrated by Gabriel Ayala

Wolstenhome created the sole male collection on show, and her futuristic sportswear borrowed shapes and fabrics from a manner of sportswear, a mash up of scuba-esque one-pieces, foam hoods, and deconstructed jersey sweat pants, with cut-out holes and harem-style drapes and folds.  

Rachel Wolstenholme, illustrated by Aniela Murphy

A special mention should also go to Sunny Kular for her attempt to spice up school uniforms with Indian elements. We loved seeing that boring grey fabric we remember from our school days twisted into sari shapes, ties and blazers in Ikat prints and jackets emblazoned with a ‘Ganesh’ school badge.  


Sunny Kalar, illustrated by Donna McKenzie

But UCLAN’s strongest suits are clearly printed textiles, forming the basis of two of the most eye-catching collections.  

Jessica Thompson’s surreal collection of printed designs was full of quirky, cartoonish imagery, manipulated onto a spectrum of designs, from fitted shift dresses to sporty anoraks. Everything demanded attention, from the Beefeater printed slip that made the model into a marching drummer, to the dreamy shifts emblazoned with chimps and birds.

Some images were distorted into unrecognisable shapes and quirky patterns, forcing a closer look.  The final piece was a red, floor length printed mac, that looked like it was printed with moon craters – the coolest cover up for a rainy day.  


Jessica Thompson, illustrated by Gemma Milly

Saving the best till last – Sara Wadsworth’s amazing printed collection chimed with the patriotic mood. The whole collection was crafted in chiffon, printed with British icons – the Union Jack, Big Ben the London Eye and what looked like parts of Trafalgar Square, all blown up, re-sized, and patterned across wisps of fabric.


Sara Wadsworth, illustrated by Abi Daker

Wadsworth let the prints do the talking, choosing almost sheer chiffon in muted shades of grey, white and occasional splashes of olives and teal. Bright yellow bras peeked out from beneath the designs, ranging from floor length kaftans to a Vivienne Westwood-esque draped dress, and a sweet smock top and short combo. Who would have thought our most touristy landmarks could be re-imagined into such wearable designs?

Images courtesy of catwalking.com

Shinsuke Mitsuoka

The world of fashion is notoriously fickle and grabbing the attentions of a fashion crowd for any extended period of time seems tricky. Catwalk shows do their best with an array of light shows and thumping soundtracks which could sometimes do with a warning.

Nottingham Trent have prepared it all for their outing at Graduate Fashion Week with glossy door staff, viagra 100mg designer goody bags and even a rather trendy loitering DJ (wearing a somewhat dubious puffa jacket). They’re raring to go, diagnosis but there’s just one cog in the works; a serious lack of bums on seats. Well, there is of course the age old excuse of being fashionably late, but even the pinched smiles of women ferrying around have started to crumble.

All becomes clear as a dull thudding bass infiltrates the theatre and the sound barrier takes a bashing as the trill of hundreds of screaming girls hit the roof. Apparently Tinie Tempah is a big deal (and from the glimpse I got, genuinely teeny Tinie). He’s had all of one song, which luckily for Nottingham Trent, he dispatches quickly, and soon a bustle of activity swells at the theatre doors. If Tinie didn’t make them ‘Pass Out’ (see what I did there? Here all week folks…) then the efforts of Nottingham Trent’s 2010 graduates will surely do their best to stun the senses. 


Live front row illustration by Lauren Macaulay

Nottingham Trent has a clear passion for encouraging students to experiment with unique techniques and textures in knitwear, producing a modern and varied aesthetic across the course. Their catwalk show oscillates between detailed, intricate knitwear and sleek takes on womenswear with bursts of energy injected at intervals by the likes of Emma Dick, showcasing sharp, graphic prints of televisions and arrows just at home in a museum of Pop Art as the runway. Integrated hoods give the look a futuristic feel but there’s a touch of the retro about her two-tone body con jumpsuit with a classic 1960s palette contrast between red and black.

Nottingham Trent keeps the volume turned up with Claire Hartley’s cutaway knitted one pieces, exposing flashes of green, yellow and red for a futuristic sci-fi look. Hartley’s dedication to forward thinking stretches beyond the aesthetics as she hopes to generate a new innovative, zero waste policy in manufacturing to ensure the sustainability and evolution of the clothes. 

By now Tinie’s long forgotten as each model stalks down the catwalk to puffa DJ’s painfully hip soundtrack. Nikki Lowe dazzles with gold lamé suits complete with built-in gloves worthy of an evil Jackie Collins penned character, but flashlight necklaces add a distinctive disco feel caught somewhere between the 1970s and the 1990s.

Miranda Boucher’s collection is a dark and luxurious celebration of femininity with plush midnight blue coats and velveteen details just obscuring the model’s modesty.  

Emma Philpot’s knitwear seems to grow from the models bodies, twisting and turning upon itself and forming knots and twists likes a chunky chainmail, while Tiffany Williams continues the fairytale edge with her menswear collection in dark, brooding colours and heavy volume that weigh on the shoulders as a hulking, masculine presence. Backs reveal shimmers of gold thread intertwined, adding a lighter side to the depth of her work. 
Jenna Harvey’s dresses change at every turn as each layer of tiny fabric is double printed and loosely set so as it moves a new picture is revealed. At times it feels like 3D glasses are needed just to keep up with the transformation before your eyes.

Meanwhile, Phoebe Thirlwall’s beautiful knitwear dresses, inspired by the intricacies of the skin, show a level of workmanship that is breathtaking under the lights of the catwalk. Each ribbed layer clings to the models with hundreds of different levels working together. Her hard work has clearly not gone unnoticed as her work was also photographed by renowned artist Rankin, a stunning portrait duly displayed in grand terms at Earl’s Court.


 
Izabela Targosz’s equestrian turn on tailoring injects some more colour into Nottingham Trent’s show, with jackets made with horsehair pockets and backs adding a silky but quirky feel. Riding hats are the natural yet perfect accessory to a collection that shows an equal strength in its attention to detail for an upheaval of the British tailored look. 

Shinsuke Matsuoka’s work is saved for the final spot and with the breathtaking effect of the garments, it’s easy to see why. Bondage style zips snake across panels of black hi-shine material; the sound of the clothes are a foreboding presence in themselves, but as six outfits stand together the models are transformed into an unnervingly attractive chain gang from the future. I’m not sure if it was this effect or not, but my camera also spluttered its final breaths at this point, perhaps overwhelmed by the power of Matsuoka’s collection.

In any case, it proved a spectacular way to end things and is not something I can imagine being trumped by Tinie any day soon.

Images courtesy of catwalking.com

Categories ,1960s, ,3D, ,Bondage, ,Claire Hartley, ,dj, ,Earls Court, ,Emma Dick, ,Emma Philpot, ,Graduate Fashion Week, ,Izabela Tagosz, ,Jackie Collins, ,Jenna Harvey, ,knitwear, ,london, ,menswear, ,Miranda Boucher, ,Nikki Lowe, ,Nottingham Trent University, ,Phoebe Thirlwall, ,Pop Art, ,Rankin, ,Sci-Fi, ,Shinsuke Matsuoka, ,Tiffany Williams, ,Tinie Temper, ,vogue, ,Womenswear

Similar Posts:






Amelia’s Magazine | Graduate Fashion Week 2011 Gala Awards Show: Menswear

Andy_Bumpus_Carl_James_Illingworth
Carl James Illingworth by Andy Bumpus.

In some ways the menswear at the Graduate Fashion Week Gala Awards was more fun than the womenswear… particularly with the addition of a whacky white haired older male model who clearly thought the show was all about him. His over the top posing was certainly entertaining to photograph.

Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Carl James Illingworth 2011-photo Amelia GregoryGraduate Fashion Week Gala show Carl James Illingworth 2011-photo Amelia GregoryGraduate Fashion Week Gala show Carl James Illingworth 2011-photo Amelia Gregory
Carl James Illingworth of Northumbria University showed a great collection in black and grey with metallic highlights – studs, cure a crown and plenty of sequins giving a sparkly royal feel. Follow Carl James Illingworth on twitter.

Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Felix Wolodymyr ChablukSmith 2011--photo Amelia GregoryGraduate Fashion Week Gala show Felix Wolodymyr ChablukSmith 2011--photo Amelia GregoryGraduate Fashion Week Gala show Felix Wolodymyr ChablukSmith 2011--photo Amelia Gregory
Felix Wolodymyr Chabluk Smith from Edinburgh College of Art showed a very confident tailored collection. It was definitely the most obviously commercial collection: he won the menswear award.

Andy_Bumpus_Genevieve_Davroy
Genevieve Davroy by Andy Bumpus.

Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Genevieve Davroy 2011-Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Genevieve Davroy 2011-Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Genevieve Davroy 2011-Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Genevieve Davroy 2011-Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Genevieve Davroy 2011-
Genevieve Davroy of Kingston University showed brightly coloured felted shorts and interesting textured knitwear. I liked the combination of primary colours with muted grey.

Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Rose Dent 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Rose Dent 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Rose Dent 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Rose Dent 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Rose Dent 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Rose Dent 2011
From University of Manchester Rose Dent took inspiration from sportswear style – sending her models out with mesh bags of balls and big DENT branding brandished across chests and backs. There was lots of clashing coloured print on shirts and on tracksuits. Follow Rose Dent on twitter.

Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Wang Li Xuang 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Wang Li Xuang 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Wang Li Xuang 2011
Lastly Wang Li Xuang of Istituto Marangoni Milan went back to a more sombre colourway with oversized knitted capes and cowls – lovely stuff but the devil to photograph on such a dark catwalk.

It’s great to see some of those fashion designers above are on twitter, prescription but just one last word to graduating designers everywhere, both those who made it to the Gala Awards and those who didn’t or who are pursuing another creative avenue: make sure you use twitter to promote yourself! It’s such a valuable networking tool, and you’re wasting its potential if you just use it to gossip with friends. Leave that to your personal facebook profile – the whole world can see you on twitter, and you should be using it to present a professional image. Talk about your achievements, link to your website and make the most of its powerful ranking in search engines.

If you’d like to know more about how to make the best of social networking I’ll be teaching on the Fashion Bootcamp from the Centre for Fashion Enterprise on 9th-10th July. Find out more here and here.

Categories ,Andy Bumpus, ,Carl James Illingworth, ,Centre for Fashion Enterprise, ,Earls Court, ,Edinburgh College of Art, ,Facebook, ,Fashion Bootcamp, ,Felix Wolodymyr Chabluk Smith, ,Gala Awards, ,Genevieve Davroy, ,GFW, ,Graduate Fashion Week, ,Istituto Marangoni Milan, ,Kingston University, ,knitwear, ,Manchester School of Art, ,menswear, ,Northumbria University, ,Rose Dent, ,twitter, ,University of Manchester, ,Wang Li Xuang

Similar Posts:






Amelia’s Magazine | Graduate Fashion Week 2011 Gala Awards Show: Womenswear Knitwear and Tailoring

GFW Charlotte Waters by Claire Kearns
Charlotte Waters by Claire Kearns.

Now for the real meat of the Graduate Fashion Week Gala Awards show… the womenswear on show. Here are those designers who concentrated on tailoring, more about textures and knitwear.

Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Charlotte Waters 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Charlotte Waters 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Charlotte Waters 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Charlotte Waters 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Charlotte Waters 2011
Charlotte Waters of Salford showed a dark and moody collection with plenty of texture and knit. Intelligent Evolution was inspired by obsolete technology such as cassettes. Grunge with a modern twist – loved the over sized fibrous shoes.

Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Cindy M Warsono 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Cindy M Warsono 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Cindy M Warsono 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Cindy M Warsono 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Cindy M Warsono 2011
Cindy M Warsono by Hayley Warnham
Cindy M Warsono by Hayley Warnham.

I wasn’t massively keen on La Salle College of the Arts Singapore graduate Cindy M Warsono‘s collection of bulky cream hoodies and tight trousers.

Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Jaskiran Hare 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Jaskiran Hare 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Jaskiran Hare 2011
Jaskiran Hare of Kingston University showed a monochrome collection based on traditional tailoring turned inside out and back to front.

Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Jungo Kuroiwa 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Jungo Kuroiwa 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Jungo Kuroiwa 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Jungo Kuroiwa 2011
Jungo Kuroiwa of UCA Epsom favoured a very black approach as well: layered tailoring and lace all mixed up together to create interest.

GFW-Rory-Longdon_by_AlisonDay
Rory Longdon by Alison Day.

Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Rory Longdon 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Rory Longdon 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Rory Longdon 2011
Rory Longdon went for subdued black and silver in his knitwear collection – but even a colour lover like me could admire these beautifully constructed garments – up close they were just amazing. Not for nothing did he win the overall Gala Award. He goes on to study an MA in Fashion Womenswear at the RCA this September.

Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Lyudmila Lane 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Lyudmila Lane 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Lyudmila Lane 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Lyudmila Lane 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Lyudmila Lane 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Lyudmila Lane 2011
Lyudmila Lane of UCA Rochester stuck to lighter greys and orange in pleated shapes for Endless Sequence, medications inspired by the sculptures of Peter Jansen. The garments didn’t always work – I was much more interested in her intriguing shoes.

Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Rachel Cogley 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Rachel Cogley 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Rachel Cogley 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Rachel Cogley 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Rachel Cogley 2011
Rachel Cogley from University of Birmingham must surely have been inspired by Charlie Le Mindu – her fun collection borrowed heavily from his avante garde design aesthetic. Nonetheless I enjoyed her crazy big shouldered plaited hair coats and the poodle bag which matched both wig and coat.

naomi-law-gfw-gala-ume-sacraine
naomi-law-gfw-gala-ume-sacraine
Ume Sacraine by Naomi Law.

Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Ume Sacraine 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Ume Sacraine 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Ume Sacraine 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Ume Sacraine 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Ume Sacraine 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Ume Sacraine 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Ume Sacraine 2011
It was back to black for Ume Sacraine of De Montford University… who started with a panelled mini dress before moving on to a whole range of intriguing fringed, embossed and gnarled textures in a sombre palette.

Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Won Jee Chung 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Won Jee Chung 2011
Finally, Won Jee Chung showed more monochrome, this time intarsia knit and a strangely unflattering bulky hooded top with sheer palazzo pants.

Categories ,Alison Day, ,black, ,Charlie le Mindu, ,Charlotte Waters, ,Cindy M Warsono, ,Claire Kearns, ,De Montford University, ,Endless Sequence, ,GFW, ,Graduate Fashion Week, ,Grey, ,Hayley Warnham, ,Intelligent Evolution, ,Jaskiran Hare, ,Jungo Kuroiwa, ,Kingston University, ,knitwear, ,La Salle College of the Arts, ,Lyudmila Lane, ,monochrome, ,Naomi Law, ,Peter Jansen, ,Rachel Cogley, ,Rory Longdon, ,Singapore, ,tailoring, ,Textures, ,UCA Epsom, ,UCA Rochester, ,Ume Sacraine, ,University of Birmingham, ,Womenswear, ,Won Jee Chung

Similar Posts:






Amelia’s Magazine | Graduate Fashion Week 2011 Gala Awards Show: Womenswear Print

GFW - Meg Cornwell by Madi
Meg Cornwell by Madi.

I am sure my regular readers will not be surprised to hear that it was the print designers who won my heart at the Graduate Fashion Awards Gala Awards. Never be afraid of colour and pattern my friends…

Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Meg Cornwell 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Meg Cornwell 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Meg Cornwell 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Meg Cornwell 2011
Meg Cornwell_by_AlisonDay
Meg Cornwell by Alison Day.

My very favourite had to be Meg Cornwell of Bournemouth University, click who unfortunately went home empty handed. I loved her combinations of flirty bell shaped minis splashed with abstract prints in a gorgeous colour palette of steel, rx maroon and pale blue, all accessorised with ruffled silver crop jackets. I would never have guessed it but her final collection was based on racing car engineering, with the prints inspired by car headlights. Follow Meg Cornwell on twitter.

GFW Christina Economo by Claire Kearns
Christina Economo by Claire Kearns.

Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Christina Economou 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Christina Economou 2011
Christina Economou showed a dashing collection of silky clashing prints in bold purple geometrics and splashy florals. Think high waistlines and high necklines.

Dominique Kral Graduate Fashion Week 2011 by Sarah Harman
Dominique Kral by Sarah Harman.

Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Dominique Kral 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Dominique Kral 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Dominique Kral 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Dominique Kral 2011
Dominque Kral impressed with a confident collection that encompassed digital prints and cable knitwear.

GFW - Marrisa Owen by Madi
Marrisa Owen by Madi.

Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Marrisa Owen 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Marrisa Owen 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Marrisa Owen 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Marrisa Owen 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Marrisa Owen 2011
Marissa Owen was the worthy Womenswear Award winner, mixing stunning Japanese style prints with gingham and florals in this ambitious collection.

Shirana Chavda Graduate Fashion Week 2011 by Sarah Harman
Shirana Chavda Graduate Fashion Week 2011 by Sarah Harman.

Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Shirana Chavda 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Shirana Chavda 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Shirana Chavda 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Shirana Chavda 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Shirana Chavda 2011
Shirana Chavda of De Montfort University went for splashy colour in her loose print collection. I liked the leopard print wide leg pants and the huge beady reptilian eyeball on a crop top.

Categories ,Alison Day, ,Bournemouth University, ,Christina Economou, ,Claire Kearns, ,De Montford University, ,De Montfort University, ,Dominque Kral, ,floral, ,Gala Awards, ,Gingham, ,Graduate Fashion Week, ,japanese, ,Madi, ,Madi Illustrates, ,Marissa Owen, ,Meg Cornwell, ,print, ,Sarah Harman, ,Shirana Chavda, ,Womenswear

Similar Posts:






Amelia’s Magazine | Graduate Fashion Week 2012 Gala Awards Ceremony: Part One


Matthew Williamson by Ruth Joyce

Twelve hundred students descend on Earls Court Two for Graduate Fashion Week every year. About a quarter of them get the opportunity to showcase their collections during one of the 16 fashion shows that are held over four days. In a dramatic climax – the Gala Awards show – 10 students are selected to present their work for a second time in the hope of receiving the coveted Gold Award.


All photography by Matt Bramford

So, like the fashion industry itself, chances of making it are pretty slim. 10 incredible collections graced the catwalk in the finale and I honestly couldn’t pick a winner – celebrity judges like Matthew Williamson and Julien Macdonald commented on the incredible standard exhibited of not only those who had been selected as a Gold Award nominee, but every college.


Julien Macdonald by Claire Kearns

Here’s a photographic whistle-stop tour of the awards ceremony:

INTERNATIONAL AWARD


Yvonne Kwok – Amsterdam Fashion Institute


Zhu Liyuanzi – Istituto Marangoni Milan


WINNER: Karen Jessen – ESMOD Berlin, presented by Julien Macdonald, Sara Maino from Vogue Italia & Caroline Burstein from Browns.

STUART PETERS KNITWEAR AWARD


Emma Walsh – Nottingham Trent University


Jousianne ProppManchester Metropolitan University


Caitlin Charles Jones – Kingston University


Judges Ruth Chapman from Matches, Erica Peters from Stuart Peters and knitwear designer Mark Fast couldn’t decide, so Caitlin and Jousianne both scooped the award!

ZANDRA RHODES TEXTILES AWARD


Daisy Lowe by Ruth Joyce


Amelia Smith – Northumbria University


Dae-Byn Lee – Nottingham Trent University


Roz Lamkin – Manchester Metropolitan University


WINNER: Xiaoping HuangUCLAN, presented by Daisy Lowe and Mary Katrantzou

BARCLAYS NEW BUSINESS AWARD


Holly Reid – UCLAN, presented by Tabitha Somerset-Webb (Project D) and Michelle Mone OBE

FASHION INNOVATION AWARD


Ami Collins – UCLAN, presented by Lorraine Candy of ELLE magazine and designer David Koma

MEDIA & DESIGN AWARD


Kerrie Donelly – UCA Epsom, presented by Fashion Editor-at-Large Melanie Rickey and ID magazine‘s Jefferson Hack (swoon)

STAND DESIGN AWARD


Edinburgh College of Art, presented by designer Fred Butler and Harvey NicholsYuri Nakamura

GEORGE BEST OF BRITISH AWARD


Susanna Yi – University of East London, presented by TV presenter Caroline Flack and ASDA fashion director Fiona Lambert

GEORGE CHILDRENSWEAR AWARD


Harriet Simons – Colchester, presented by singer Louise Redknapp and Fiona Lambert

MULBERRY ACCESSORIES AWARD


Laura Smallwood – Kingston University, presented by Mulberry‘s Tori Campbell

ETHICAL AWARD


Sarah Murphy, Northumbria – presented by stylist Jocelyn Whipple and film producer/eco hero Livia Firth

LIFETIME ACHIEVEMENT AWARD


Legendary catwalk photographer Chris Moore, presented by designer Jeff Banks

Part Two, featuring the major players and the menswear, womenswear and Gold Award winners, coming soon…!

Categories ,accessories, ,Amelia Smith, ,Ami Collins, ,Amsterdam Fashion Institute, ,ASDA, ,Awards, ,Caitlin Charles Jones, ,Caroline Flack, ,Caryn Franklin, ,Catwalking.com, ,Ceremony, ,Childrenswear, ,Chris Moore, ,Claire Kearns, ,Colchester, ,Dae-Byn Lee, ,daisy lowe, ,David Koma, ,Earls Court Two, ,Eco Age, ,Elle, ,Emma Walsh, ,Erica Peters, ,ESMOD Berlin, ,Essex, ,fashion, ,Fiona Lambert, ,Fred Butler, ,Gala, ,George, ,Gold Award, ,Graduate Fashion Week, ,Harvey Nichols, ,Holly Reid, ,ID Magazine, ,international, ,Istituto Marangoni Milan, ,Jeff Banks, ,Jefferson Hack, ,Jousianne Propp, ,Julien McDonald, ,Karen Jesson, ,Kerrie Donnelly, ,Kingston University London, ,knitwear, ,Laura Smallwood, ,Lifetime Achievement, ,Livia Firth, ,Lorraine Candy, ,Louise Redknapp, ,Manchester Metropolitan University, ,Mark Fast, ,Mary Katrantzou, ,matches, ,Matt Bramford, ,Matthew Williamson, ,Melanie Rickey, ,menswear, ,Michelle Mone OBE, ,Mulberry, ,New Business, ,Northumbria University, ,Nottingham Trent University, ,Project D, ,Roz Lamkin, ,Ruth Chapman, ,Ruth Joyce, ,show, ,Stuart Peters, ,Susanna Yi, ,Tabitha Somerset-Webb, ,Tori Campbell, ,UCA Epsom, ,UCLan, ,UEL, ,Womenswear, ,Xiaoping Huang, ,Yuri Nakamura, ,Yvonne Kwok, ,Zhu Liyuanzi

Similar Posts:






Amelia’s Magazine | Graduate Fashion Week Extra: Royal College of Art MA 2010


Illustration by Gemma Milly of Zara Gorman’s Millinery.

Over the last few years the RCA’s MA Fashion course has quietly been producing a series of extremely talented designers; from those reinventing menswear: James Long and Katie Eary to the individual take on womenswear by Michael van der Ham, hospital Erdem and Holly Fulton (whose influence could already be seen on the Bournemouth catwalk). All of whom (except perhaps, stomach Erdem) subsequently – pretty much straight away- showed at London Fashion Week via Lulu Kennedy’s Fashion East.

Zara Gorman’s graduated from the Milinery MA (a class of one) with her exquisitely shaped hats constructed from a combination of leather, pilule wood and plastic.

Illustration by Katey Harvey

Astrid Andersen plays with fashion’s ability to celebrate and pastiche it’s own brand at the same time on the same item (think LV’s monogrammed bags or Moschino Jeans). Her menswear re-constructed the base elements of sportswear – the hoody, the sweatpants through incredibly luxurious materials (sadly this show was sponsored by Kopenhagen Fur – this is not a luxury material!). This was sportswear for the nouveau riche and a celebration of trashy aesthetics so loved by Eddie of Ab Fab

The less media friendly elements of sportswear were visited on the RCA catwalk this year, Courtney McWilliams’s take on casual wear focused on the harder youth. Who displayed across t-shirts and jackets what in recent years has come to represent a particular type of English youth: the Pit Bull. The word ‘Chav’ being the inspiration for a couple of the 2010 MA graduates, this collection was a literal inspiration of a term created in the media. Both designers exaggerated how an idea of masculine dominance and power can be created through dress and aesthetic choice, playing with the viewers ability to associate certain items of dress with particular ideas surrounding masculinity.

Illustration by Joseph Keirs

In contrast to Andersen and McWilliams, Trine Jensen provided a jovial take on menswear through his breathtaking sweaters covered with charms (as in bracelet) to hoops. A nod to the collector within us all.

Victoria Stone’s cut up chiffon shirts in conjunction with her oversized suits presented a masculine take on womenswear, a look for those inspired by Woody Allen’s Annie Hall Illustration By Marnie Hollande

Sam McCoach’s tubular tightly woven knitwear sashed down the catwalk. The ankle grazing dresses set off by the muted colour block graphic coats, complete with exaggerated rounded shoulders. A nod perhaps to Louise Goldin experimental knitwear.

Illustration by Lesley Barnes

Poppy Cartwright’s white collection was skin tight and slightly trashy through the use of high shine trousers. The collection celebrated femininity and the female form through the cut of the dress falling tight across the body. The body emphasised through the sections cut out and the white on white embroidery.

All illustrations by Naomi Law

Frances Convey’s colour and shapes were a moment of joy, the designer’s soft fabrics accentuating hips and shoulders.

Illustration by Katie Harvey

The monochrome creped collection by Cecile Bahnsen came complete with 1990′s inspired sportswear jackets. Elements of grunge reappeared through the designers choice of length – often the dresses hang tightly around the ankle. Flashes of Amber from clueless appear with the presentation of the Fez hat. It’s that time already. The revival of the 1990′s.

Illustration by Marnie Hollande

Bahnsen’s graphic monochrome was interspersed with pastel pink dresses constructed through negative spacing.

Yuri Yufere dramatic feminine shapes were hardened by the narrow metal poles woven into the garments, creating a visible extension of the body. Pushing the material into that grey area of personal space which surrounds us all. This year’s 2010 graduates presented an incredible exhibition of the craft, research and invention currently occurring within the RCA’s Fashion Department. Amelia’s Magazine waits eagerly to see where they go next.

Illustration by Lesley Barnes

Categories ,Astrid Andersen, ,Cecile Bahnsen, ,Courtney McWilliams, ,Erdem, ,fashion, ,Fashion East, ,Frances Convey, ,Gemma Milly, ,Graduate Fashion Week, ,James Long, ,Joseph Keirs, ,Katey Harvey, ,Katie Eary, ,knitwear, ,Lesley Barnes, ,Lulu Kennedy, ,ma, ,Marnie Hollande, ,menswear, ,Michael van der Ham, ,millinery, ,Poppy Cartwright, ,rca, ,Royal College of Art, ,Sam McCoach, ,Victoria Stone, ,Womenswear, ,Yuri Yufere, ,Zara Gorman

Similar Posts:






Amelia’s Magazine | Graduate Fashion Week Interview: Birmingham’s Joseph Turvey

Thumbnail Glastonbury

Illustration by Natasha T

There is no denying Glastonbury 2010 was a really special one. So if, sickness like me, thumb you are still feeling a touch of the post-festival blues read on and let us reminisce about some of the musical moments that made this years festival truly great.
 
In the weeks before the 40th Glastonbury there was an anticipation that everyone down on Worthy Farm would be pulling out all the stops. And sure enough, treatment ecstatic festival-goers arrived to a spruced up site; a beautiful patchwork sign spelling Glastonbury surveyed the beauty of the colossal site from its perch on the hill near The Park; a giant wicker man stood proudly in the middle of the stone circle; and a ravetastic new henge made from glowing cubes provided a place for guys and gals of Glastonbury to come and worship in the dance fields. I’m sure there was much much more but all this added to a general impression that Glasto 2010 was going to be bigger, brighter and better than ever before.

Then, of course, something really magical happened, something that no one could have predicted. The sun shined for the entire festival – and boy did it shine! Umbrellas found a novel new purpose in life protecting their owners not from rain but the unrelenting heat of the sun, and wellies remained slumped in dark corners of tents or abandoned by the very optimistic in cars.
 
As with the extra effort put into everything else, the line up was incredible — too good! Everyday my heart was broken a little as I realised that two, three or four of the bands I would have liked to have seen were on at the same time. The line-up was an eclectic music fan’s (such as myself’s) dream. Neatly summed up, of course, in the festival’s headline acts; Gorillaz, Muse and Stevie Wonder — three acts big enough to hold their own on the famous Pyramid Stage but definitely diverse in their musical stylings. I’m going to end on Stevie but first to another of his namesakes.


Illustration by Gareth Hopkins

Seasick Steve took to The Pyramid in what felt like one billion degree heat in the middle of the day on Saturday. The cider in my hand was hotter than the sun and doing nothing to quench my thirst but Seasick Steve was all the refreshment that the large crowd who had turned up to see him needed. He’s been on the summer festival circuit for a while now but his stripped-down act, wailing three string guitar, and songs about life on the streets in the USA were still as thrilling as ever. ‘Burning Up’ managed to sum up quite succinctly the general atmosphere among the sea of sweating fans but we all stayed with him despite the heat for his tremendous trademark finale of the ever-accelerating bluesy number ‘Dog House Boogie.’

 Then, later that day, Laura Marling’s gig provided one of the most memorable moments of festival. After a blissful and beautiful Saturday afternoon Marling emerged just as the bright ball-like orange sun dipped behind the trees. She said very little but the hush over The Park as everyone stopped to listen to her was such that my friend aimed a “Shhh” at a low flying helicopter above us. Her set was a combination of the now veritable folk standards from the old album such as ‘Ghosts’, ‘My Manic and I’ and the countrified ‘Alas I Cannot Swim’ and pretty ditties from new album I Speak Because I Can. She began ‘Blackberry Stone’ to whoops of delight from the crowd and by the end of the delicate guitar-based ballad from her latest work Laura had herself a few new fans and a boy at the front had himself a new fiancé. “I don’t know if you saw, but someone just proposed and got a good answer,” Marling told the mesmerised crowd.


Illustration by Donna McKenzie

 Mumford & Sons caused me a fair bit of heartache, an ill-timed arrival meant that I could barely get near the tent. Recently the Mumford boys have pretty much exploded — planting their banjo-touting and harmony-singing selves firmly at the forefront of the British antifolk scene. Their gig at the John Peel Stage was a monument to how popular they have become. The audience and, really endearingly, the band were completely overwhelmed. As their set saw some of the biggest sing- a-longs of the festival it was all the boys could do to steal glances at each other with looks of utter disbelief. The intimacy of their songs and acoustic nature was not lost among the huge crowd though — proving once and for all that these are folkies who really know how to rock. In fact many were left wondering why the boys had been billed for the John Peel and not The Other or West Holts Stages, they definitely proved they can draw a big enough crowd.


Illustration by Luke Waller

 Dizzee Rascal, a bit of a festival staple these days, was perhaps one of the only acts who could have drawn me away from the Mumfords. Ever the entertainer he bust out his best hits including ‘Bonkers’, ‘Holiday’, new one ‘Dirty Disco’ and a version of ‘Smells Like Teen Spirit’ — all unbeatable at geeing up a cider-fuelled rabble for a night of raging away in the dance fields, Shangri-La, their own tent, or whatever it might be. And, of course, his set wouldn’t have been complete without an appearance from Florence for ‘You Got the Dirty Love’ (her own gig on The Other Stage another massive festival highlight for many). After also appearing with The xx, Florence actually sung ‘You Got the Love’ three times this Glastonbury. In fact if you watched Florence at her gig and all her guest appearances and then went to see Candi Staton croon her way through her original version, you could have gotten a whole four renditions — I’m not sure that’s ever happened before at Glasto and surely that’s more than enough love for anybody?


Illustration by Abi Daker

 But it was Stevie Wonder who stole the show for many, proving that 50 odd years in the business only makes you more of a superstar not a washed-up one. Ripping a keytar to shreds, Wonder promised a night of celebrating Michael Jackson’s life as well as 40 years of Glastonbury. Now, I would never have bought a ticket to see Stevie Wonder play but clearly this was going to be a once in a lifetime experience and anyway, his music holds some pretty serious sway in our house (my Mum requested songs by Stevie to be played out on hospital radio after the births of me and my sister!) But even my friend, who couldn’t claim to be a Stevie Wonder fan — “I don’t know any of the songs, sing one to me!” — soon realised that basically everybody knows Stevie Wonder’s music. His songs are all around us and like some kind of musical oxygen have been seeping into our brains via osmosis since the dawn of time! Stevie unashamedly rattled through the biggest hits of his half century-long career, saving ‘Superstition’ until near the end of his set, unleashing a rapturous response among arguably the biggest crowd of the festival.
 
Then the ultimate finale to what has since been reported as the best Glastonbury ever, Stevie’s legendary soul interpretation of Happy Birthday. Glasto founder Michael Eavis was dragged out on stage and serenaded by the superstar — providing the ultimate warm fuzzy feeling in the stomachs of everyone who witnessed it. Even if Eavis’ singing was less than easy on the ears.
 


Illustration by Natasha Thompson

There is no denying Glastonbury 2010 was a really special one. So if, prescription like me, diagnosis you are still feeling a touch of the post-festival blues read on and let us reminisce about some of the musical moments that made this years festival truly great.
 
In the weeks before the 40th Glastonbury there was an anticipation that everyone down on Worthy Farm would be pulling out all the stops. And sure enough, ecstatic festival-goers arrived to a spruced up site; a beautiful patchwork sign spelling Glastonbury surveyed the beauty of the colossal site from its perch on the hill near The Park; a giant wicker man stood proudly in the middle of the stone circle; and a ravetastic new henge made from glowing cubes provided a place for guys and gals of Glastonbury to come and worship in the dance fields. I’m sure there was much much more but all this added to a general impression that Glasto 2010 was going to be bigger, brighter and better than ever before.

Then, of course, something really magical happened, something that no one could have predicted. The sun shined for the entire festival – and boy did it shine! Umbrellas found a novel new purpose in life protecting their owners not from rain but the unrelenting heat of the sun, and wellies remained slumped in dark corners of tents or abandoned by the very optimistic in cars.
 
As with the extra effort put into everything else, the line up was incredible — too good! Everyday my heart was broken a little as I realised that two, three or four of the bands I would have liked to have seen were on at the same time. The line-up was an eclectic music fan’s (such as myself’s) dream. Neatly summed up, of course, in the festival’s headline acts; Gorillaz, Muse and Stevie Wonder — three acts big enough to hold their own on the famous Pyramid Stage but definitely diverse in their musical stylings. I’m going to end on Stevie but first to another of his namesakes.


Illustration by Gareth Hopkins

Seasick Steve took to The Pyramid in what felt like one billion degree heat in the middle of the day on Saturday. The cider in my hand was hotter than the sun and doing nothing to quench my thirst but Seasick Steve was all the refreshment that the large crowd who had turned up to see him needed. He’s been on the summer festival circuit for a while now but his stripped-down act, wailing three string guitar, and songs about life on the streets in the USA were still as thrilling as ever. ‘Burning Up’ managed to sum up quite succinctly the general atmosphere among the sea of sweating fans but we all stayed with him despite the heat for his tremendous trademark finale of the ever-accelerating bluesy number ‘Dog House Boogie.’

 Then, later that day, Laura Marling’s gig provided one of the most memorable moments of festival. After a blissful and beautiful Saturday afternoon Marling emerged just as the bright ball-like orange sun dipped behind the trees. She said very little but the hush over The Park as everyone stopped to listen to her was such that my friend aimed a “Shhh” at a low flying helicopter above us. Her set was a combination of the now veritable folk standards from the old album such as ‘Ghosts’, ‘My Manic and I’ and the countrified ‘Alas I Cannot Swim’ and pretty ditties from new album I Speak Because I Can. She began ‘Blackberry Stone’ to whoops of delight from the crowd and by the end of the delicate guitar-based ballad from her latest work Laura had herself a few new fans and a boy at the front had himself a new fiancé. “I don’t know if you saw, but someone just proposed and got a good answer,” Marling told the mesmerised crowd.


Illustration by Donna McKenzie

 Mumford & Sons caused me a fair bit of heartache, an ill-timed arrival meant that I could barely get near the tent. Recently the Mumford boys have pretty much exploded — planting their banjo-touting and harmony-singing selves firmly at the forefront of the British antifolk scene. Their gig at the John Peel Stage was a monument to how popular they have become. The audience and, really endearingly, the band were completely overwhelmed. As their set saw some of the biggest sing- a-longs of the festival it was all the boys could do to steal glances at each other with looks of utter disbelief. The intimacy of their songs and acoustic nature was not lost among the huge crowd though — proving once and for all that these are folkies who really know how to rock. In fact many were left wondering why the boys had been billed for the John Peel and not The Other or West Holts Stages, they definitely proved they can draw a big enough crowd.


Illustration by Luke Waller

 Dizzee Rascal, a bit of a festival staple these days, was perhaps one of the only acts who could have drawn me away from the Mumfords. Ever the entertainer he bust out his best hits including ‘Bonkers’, ‘Holiday’, new one ‘Dirty Disco’ and a version of ‘Smells Like Teen Spirit’ — all unbeatable at geeing up a cider-fuelled rabble for a night of raging away in the dance fields, Shangri-La, their own tent, or whatever it might be. And, of course, his set wouldn’t have been complete without an appearance from Florence for ‘You Got the Dirty Love’ (her own gig on The Other Stage another massive festival highlight for many). After also appearing with The xx, Florence actually sung ‘You Got the Love’ three times this Glastonbury. In fact if you watched Florence at her gig and all her guest appearances and then went to see Candi Staton croon her way through her original version, you could have gotten a whole four renditions — I’m not sure that’s ever happened before at Glasto and surely that’s more than enough love for anybody?


Illustration by Abi Daker

 But it was Stevie Wonder who stole the show for many, proving that 50 odd years in the business only makes you more of a superstar not a washed-up one. Ripping a keytar to shreds, Wonder promised a night of celebrating Michael Jackson’s life as well as 40 years of Glastonbury. Now, I would never have bought a ticket to see Stevie Wonder play but clearly this was going to be a once in a lifetime experience and anyway, his music holds some pretty serious sway in our house (my Mum requested songs by Stevie to be played out on hospital radio after the births of me and my sister!) But even my friend, who couldn’t claim to be a Stevie Wonder fan — “I don’t know any of the songs, sing one to me!” — soon realised that basically everybody knows Stevie Wonder’s music. His songs are all around us and like some kind of musical oxygen have been seeping into our brains via osmosis since the dawn of time! Stevie unashamedly rattled through the biggest hits of his half century-long career, saving ‘Superstition’ until near the end of his set, unleashing a rapturous response among arguably the biggest crowd of the festival.
 
Then the ultimate finale to what has since been reported as the best Glastonbury ever, Stevie’s legendary soul interpretation of Happy Birthday. Glasto founder Michael Eavis was dragged out on stage and serenaded by the superstar — providing the ultimate warm fuzzy feeling in the stomachs of everyone who witnessed it. Even if Eavis’ singing was less than easy on the ears.
 


Illustration by Natasha Thompson

There is no denying Glastonbury 2010 was a really special one. So if, remedy like me, visit this site you are still feeling a touch of the post-festival blues read on and let us reminisce about some of the musical moments that made this years festival truly great.
 
In the weeks before the 40th Glastonbury there was an anticipation that everyone down on Worthy Farm would be pulling out all the stops. And sure enough, ecstatic festival-goers arrived to a spruced up site; a beautiful patchwork sign spelling Glastonbury surveyed the beauty of the colossal site from its perch on the hill near The Park; a giant wicker man stood proudly in the middle of the stone circle; and a ravetastic new henge made from glowing cubes provided a place for guys and gals of Glastonbury to come and worship in the dance fields. I’m sure there was much much more but all this added to a general impression that Glasto 2010 was going to be bigger, brighter and better than ever before.

Then, of course, something really magical happened, something that no one could have predicted. The sun shined for the entire festival – and boy did it shine! Umbrellas found a novel new purpose in life protecting their owners not from rain but the unrelenting heat of the sun, and wellies remained slumped in dark corners of tents or abandoned by the very optimistic in cars.
 
As with the extra effort put into everything else, the line up was incredible — too good! Everyday my heart was broken a little as I realised that two, three or four of the bands I would have liked to have seen were on at the same time. The line-up was an eclectic music fan’s (such as myself’s) dream. Neatly summed up, of course, in the festival’s headline acts; Gorillaz, Muse and Stevie Wonder — three acts big enough to hold their own on the famous Pyramid Stage but definitely diverse in their musical stylings. I’m going to end on Stevie but first to another of his namesakes.


Illustration by Gareth Hopkins

Seasick Steve took to The Pyramid in what felt like one billion degree heat in the middle of the day on Saturday. The cider in my hand was hotter than the sun and doing nothing to quench my thirst but Seasick Steve was all the refreshment that the large crowd who had turned up to see him needed. He’s been on the summer festival circuit for a while now but his stripped-down act, wailing three string guitar, and songs about life on the streets in the USA were still as thrilling as ever. ‘Burning Up’ managed to sum up quite succinctly the general atmosphere among the sea of sweating fans but we all stayed with him despite the heat for his tremendous trademark finale of the ever-accelerating bluesy number ‘Dog House Boogie.’

 Then, later that day, Laura Marling’s gig provided one of the most memorable moments of festival. After a blissful and beautiful Saturday afternoon Marling emerged just as the bright ball-like orange sun dipped behind the trees. She said very little but the hush over The Park as everyone stopped to listen to her was such that my friend aimed a “Shhh” at a low flying helicopter above us. Her set was a combination of the now veritable folk standards from the old album such as ‘Ghosts’, ‘My Manic and I’ and the countrified ‘Alas I Cannot Swim’ and pretty ditties from new album I Speak Because I Can. She began ‘Blackberry Stone’ to whoops of delight from the crowd and by the end of the delicate guitar-based ballad from her latest work Laura had herself a few new fans and a boy at the front had himself a new fiancé. “I don’t know if you saw, but someone just proposed and got a good answer,” Marling told the mesmerised crowd.


Illustration by Donna McKenzie

 Mumford & Sons caused me a fair bit of heartache, an ill-timed arrival meant that I could barely get near the tent. Recently the Mumford boys have pretty much exploded — planting their banjo-touting and harmony-singing selves firmly at the forefront of the British antifolk scene. Their gig at the John Peel Stage was a monument to how popular they have become. The audience and, really endearingly, the band were completely overwhelmed. As their set saw some of the biggest sing- a-longs of the festival it was all the boys could do to steal glances at each other with looks of utter disbelief. The intimacy of their songs and acoustic nature was not lost among the huge crowd though — proving once and for all that these are folkies who really know how to rock. In fact many were left wondering why the boys had been billed for the John Peel and not The Other or West Holts Stages, they definitely proved they can draw a big enough crowd.


Illustration by Luke Waller

 Dizzee Rascal, a bit of a festival staple these days, was perhaps one of the only acts who could have drawn me away from the Mumfords. Ever the entertainer he bust out his best hits including ‘Bonkers’, ‘Holiday’, new one ‘Dirty Disco’ and a version of ‘Smells Like Teen Spirit’ — all unbeatable at geeing up a cider-fuelled rabble for a night of raging away in the dance fields, Shangri-La, their own tent, or whatever it might be. And, of course, his set wouldn’t have been complete without an appearance from Florence for ‘You Got the Dirty Love’ (her own gig on The Other Stage another massive festival highlight for many). After also appearing with The xx, Florence actually sung ‘You Got the Love’ three times this Glastonbury. In fact if you watched Florence at her gig and all her guest appearances and then went to see Candi Staton croon her way through her original version, you could have gotten a whole four renditions — I’m not sure that’s ever happened before at Glasto and surely that’s more than enough love for anybody?


Illustration by Abi Daker

 But it was Stevie Wonder who stole the show for many, proving that 50 odd years in the business only makes you more of a superstar not a washed-up one. Ripping a keytar to shreds, Wonder promised a night of celebrating Michael Jackson’s life as well as 40 years of Glastonbury. Now, I would never have bought a ticket to see Stevie Wonder play but clearly this was going to be a once in a lifetime experience and anyway, his music holds some pretty serious sway in our house (my Mum requested songs by Stevie to be played out on hospital radio after the births of me and my sister!) But even my friend, who couldn’t claim to be a Stevie Wonder fan — “I don’t know any of the songs, sing one to me!” — soon realised that basically everybody knows Stevie Wonder’s music. His songs are all around us and like some kind of musical oxygen have been seeping into our brains via osmosis since the dawn of time! Stevie unashamedly rattled through the biggest hits of his half century-long career, saving ‘Superstition’ until near the end of his set, unleashing a rapturous response among arguably the biggest crowd of the festival.
 
Then the ultimate finale to what has since been reported as the best Glastonbury ever, Stevie’s legendary soul interpretation of Happy Birthday. Glasto founder Michael Eavis was dragged out on stage and serenaded by the superstar — providing the ultimate warm fuzzy feeling in the stomachs of everyone who witnessed it. Even if Eavis’ singing was less than easy on the ears.
 

Joseph Turvey created a storm at Graduate Fashion Week last month with his spooky mask-wearing leather-clad models, see compared to serial killers by our very own Jonno. I decided to let Joseph explain what they were all about, and have a chat with him about the rest of his collection – which, forgetting the masks for a second, is bloody good…

What was the process for being selected for the Graduate Fashion Week show? Did everybody from your university take part?
There were over 65 students from my university with only 12 places at GFW. The competition was fierce from the start. There were three different stages of the selection process with students being told they would not continue on to the next stage…a bit like the X Factor, haha!

What aspects of the collections did tutors focus on when making their selections for the final 12?
They looked at the concept behind each collection and how they would work on the runway, as well as the final finish and construction of the garments.

What do you get out of showing at GFW?
It’s an AMAZING feeling seeing your work go down the runway. After working so hard all year long it is the cherry on the cake! Plus if you are lucky you gain media attention and job opportunities. 

Had you shown your work anywhere before?
Never on this scale. It was my first experience of a professional catwalk show.

What drives you to work in fashion?
Fashion is everything and everywhere. Once you start you just can’t stop. It enables me to be creatively free. 

Did you take part in any internships during your course?
I have done some internships last summer, and i intend to take a year out and hopefully work a year in the industry, so i can gain a real understanding of what it takes to be a fashion designer.


What has inspired this collection?
The inspiration for this collection was Margaret Rutherford, the original Miss Marple, mixed with a world of fetishes and eroticism.

What is it about Margeret Rutherford and Miss Marple that inspired you?
I love how Margaret Rutherford managed to be completely tailored and stylish when playing Miss Marple. She didn’t dress in the stereotypical view of a women her age. She wore Classic Chanel-style tailoring, party dresses, sailors uniforms; a woman who had the perfect outfit for any occasion. I loved tackling aspects of her wardrobe and fusing them with studs, leather and rubber.

Your models wore some pretty eery masks. What was the concept behind these?
I love the masks…i have had rather a lot of attention over them. They are printed with Margaret Rutherford’s face… I like to think of them as my army of Miss Marples. The concept continues the idea of fetishes and identity. 

What techniques have you used and why?
There was alot of quilted tweed in my collection – i felt this gave the silhouette a ‘boxy’ feel, which compliments the tight rubber garments perfectly. 

You’ve been compared to Dior and Walter van Beirendonck – who else do you admire in the industry?
I think Mark Fast is amazing, his work is absolutely stunning. i love Katie Eary menswear and Jean-Charles de Castelbajac is a genius.

What kind of woman wears Joseph Turvey?
Strong, powerful, sexy and unafraid women.

What’s good about Birmingham?
From a university prospective it enabled me to develop my own design style, I was never told my ideas were too ‘out there’. I was guided into creating a collection that was concept driven and showed exactly who I am as a designer. Birmingham itself has a good student vibe…it is continually evolving into a more diverse city.

What do you have planned for the coming months? Did you manage to meet industry figures at GFW?
I am moving to London in September where i am working with stylist Nova Dando, and hopefully will be working with other designers. I then plan to do an MA in fashion the following September. 

How did working with Nova Dando come around?
My friend worked with her last summer, I used to go around in the evenings to help out with the Rainbow collection. It was an awesome time. I cant wait to go back.

What do you do when you aren’t thinking about or designing fashion?
I dont think there ever can be a time when I’m not thinking about fashion. I love reading, watching movies, being a typical tourist in London and drawing.

Do you use social networks?
i have a blog www.flashespast.blogspot.com and i am complete Facebook junkie.
 
What advice would you give to the students of GFW 2011, or fashion students in general?
1. Have a strong, concept-driven collection.
2. Be yourself.
3. Enjoy every minute of it.

Categories ,Birmingham University, ,catwalk, ,chanel, ,Dior, ,Facebook, ,fashion, ,GFW 2011, ,Graduate Fashion Week, ,Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, ,Joseph Turvey, ,Katie Eary, ,london, ,Margaret Rutherford, ,Mark Fast, ,Matt Bramford, ,Miss Marple, ,Nova Dando, ,Rainbow collection, ,Sailor uniforms, ,Sexy, ,The X Factor, ,Walter van Beirendonck

Similar Posts:






Amelia’s Magazine | Central Saint Martins BA Graduate Fashion Show

Illustrator and Graphic designer – inspired by originality, cost something I always strive towards and look for. I spend my time creatively as often as I can, purchase this is when I am most at peace and get a clear picture of who I am and what I want out of life.
I appreciate the importance of concept as the starting point to the design process and I pride myself in my ability to explore and interpret different styles.

Highlights in my career include illustrating the COS 2010 Spring/Summer collection, check being featured by Grafik magazine and contributing to Amelia’s magazine.

Living in London I find myself in awe with the multitude of talent and creativity which surrounds us and by how the world has become completely saturated with it. I sometimes question whether this is a good thing. But I am fascinated with the task of orientating myself in it.

www.pieterdegroot.com
www.pieterdegroot.blogspot.com

Illustrator and Graphic designer – inspired by originality, viagra approved something I always strive towards and look for. I spend my time creatively as often as I can, this is when I am most at peace and get a clear picture of who I am and what I want out of life.
I appreciate the importance of concept as the starting point to the design process and I pride myself in my ability to explore and interpret different styles.

Highlights in my career include illustrating the COS 2010 Spring/Summer collection, being featured by Grafik magazine and contributing to Amelia’s magazine.

Living in London I find myself in awe with the multitude of talent and creativity which surrounds us and by how the world has become completely saturated with it. I sometimes question whether this is a good thing. But I am fascinated with the task of orientating myself in it.

www.pieterdegroot.com
www.pieterdegroot.blogspot.com

Illustrator and Graphic designer – inspired by originality, here something I always strive towards and look for. I spend my time creatively as often as I can, recipe this is when I am most at peace and get a clear picture of who I am and what I want out of life.
I appreciate the importance of concept as the starting point to the design process and I pride myself in my ability to explore and interpret different styles.

Highlights in my career include illustrating the COS 2010 Spring/Summer collection, remedy being featured by Grafik magazine and contributing to Amelia’s magazine.

Living in London I find myself in awe with the multitude of talent and creativity which surrounds us and by how the world has become completely saturated with it. I sometimes question whether this is a good thing. But I am fascinated with the task of orientating myself in it.

www.pieterdegroot.com
www.pieterdegroot.blogspot.com

Illustrator and Graphic designer – inspired by originality, capsule something I always strive towards and look for. I spend my time creatively as often as I can, medications this is when I am most at peace and get a clear picture of who I am and what I want out of life.
I appreciate the importance of concept as the starting point to the design process and I pride myself in my ability to explore and interpret different styles.

Highlights in my career include illustrating the COS 2010 Spring/Summer collection, being featured by Grafik magazine and contributing to Amelia’s magazine.

Living in London I find myself in awe with the multitude of talent and creativity which surrounds us and by how the world has become completely saturated with it. I sometimes question whether this is a good thing. But I am fascinated with the task of orientating myself in it.

www.pieterdegroot.com
www.pieterdegroot.blogspot.com


Eloise Jephson, seek illustrated by Yelena Bryksenkova

40 graduates showed their work at the Central Saint Martins BA Degree Show this year, combining eccentric creativity with well-mastered skill. From wild African carnival-like ensembles, to upholstered outerwear, and from inflatable swimwear to paintbrush-shaped headwear…

Catwalks ranged from vibrant, quirky, carnival-like processions, to romantic, tailored, and intricate. Having been a bit out of the loop for the last year, to see such vast amounts of creativity under one roof was quite overwhelming, and equally inspiring. The show took place in Bethnal Green’s York Hall, which, for those of you who haven’t been, is rather a grand setting. Built in the 1920s, it’s vastly high ceilings and simple design creates a high-brow feel, and a lovely stage for CSM graduates.

Anne Karine Thorbjoernsen’s Womenswear collection set the scene with some illusory wicker-work creating wonderfully hazy silhouettes, highlighting the female form.

Eloise Jephson’s highly commended collection of elegant silk dresses, kimono-style gowns and turbans, printed with dinosaurs and magical creatures encapsulated wearability, originality and beauty.


Eloise Jephson, illustrated by Lisa Stannard

Catapulting the show to new heights. Sorcha O Raghallaigh’s, also highly commended collection of models- on- stilts made for a show of towering, fabric laden models – bundled with crochet scarves and flowers, for dramatic effect. The last to grace the stage, a towering bride, exaggerating the typical white wedding, with a pale complexion and layers of sheer and knitted fabrics.


Sorcha O Raghallaigh, illustrated by Naomi Law

The Second Runner-Up Award went to Alex Mullins for his quirky, vibrant collection, which included inflatable puffa-style jackets, an eclectic range of head-dresses, from painted symbols and tools to hooded and toggled overcoats in rusty orange hues, and a whole lotta’ layering.


Alex Mullins, illustrated by Farzeen Jabbar

Philip Patterson, whose menswear collection was presented with First Runner-Up Award by Drusila Beyfus, showed a great, skillful collection, with Military influence, and a sense of the outback. Soft linens, neutral cottons and waxy leather combined for a laid-back, stylish collection.

Yi Fang Wan’s sumptuous collection of freshly draped cotton won her the L’Oreal Professional Young Designer of the Year Award. Delicious ivory and dusty pink layers created elegant, romantic silhouettes. Pretty collars, bubble-hem skirting and fabulous layering made this collection stand-out from the surrounding in-your-face flamboyance of the show.


Yi Fang Wan, illustrated by Matt Thomas

Sabina Bryntesson’s worm-like piping weaved through skin tight tops and tube-dresses.

Helen Price’s dramatic knitwear was a treat for the eyes – huge ostrich-like topiary-desses swooped along the catwalk to Cornershop’s ‘Brimful of Asha’.

Moon-like cape cum cloche-hats designed by Liz Black were inventive and flattering. Splattered with pollock-esque ink splats and teamed with drain-pipe jeans.

Kwan Tae Kim showed metallics in all their glory. Spangly tailored jackets, armour-like spacesuits and mirrored embellishment combined, creating a Prince-esque style with some delicate feminine edging to soften the structured silhouettes.

Onez Lau showed inventive. comical knitwear. A model with antlers and an ‘Oh Deer’ knitted dress stalked by a show-horse wearing a wizards hat took to the catwalk, whilst others sported whipped hair-do’s and layers of woolen frivolity.


Onez Lau, illustrated by Donna McKenzie

Tahari Roque’s tape-like swimwear ensembles came to life on stage, inflating into buoyant armbands and waistbands in turquoise and black.

Beautiful feathered millinery from Zoe Sherwood appeared as birds in stages of flight. Teamed with velour, chiffon and an earthy palette, exuding a pagan feel and creating a spirited show with beaded accessories, and peacock feather-printed outerwear.

Hiroko Nakajima took upholstered chairs and turned them into sweeping jackets, paintings became neck pieces and fabrics were used to create button-back effects over volumous velour outerwear.

Isabel Fishlock’s carnival-style collection showed swishing style, silk layers and appliqued flowers. Carrie Hill’s widow- twankie styled ladies with turbans and wicker bags showed refreshing colour combinations, whilst Zoe Cheng’s multi-coloured fabrics tied into oversized bows extended the carnival theme.

As Colin McDowell exclaimed at the end of the show: “Extreme, outrageous, exciting… utterly impossible.’ I couldn’t agree more.

All photography by Matt Bramford

Categories ,africa, ,Alex Mullins, ,Anne Karine Thorbjoernsen, ,Bethnal Green, ,Carnival, ,Carrie Hill, ,Central Saint Martins, ,Chiffon, ,Colin McDowell, ,Cornershop, ,Degree Show, ,Drusila Beyfus, ,Eloise Jephson, ,Farzeen Jabbar, ,fashion, ,graduates, ,Helen Price, ,Hiroko Nakajima, ,Isabel Fishlock, ,Kwan Tae Kim, ,L’Oreal, ,Liz Black, ,Matt Bramford, ,Matt Thomas, ,millinery, ,Naomi Law, ,Onez Lau, ,Paintbrushes, ,Phillip Patterson, ,prince, ,Sabrina Bryntesson, ,Sophie Hill, ,Sorcha O Raghallaigh, ,Stilts, ,Swimwear, ,Tahari Roque, ,Turbans, ,Velour, ,Yelena Bryksenkova, ,Yi Fang Wan, ,York Hall, ,Zoe Cheung, ,Zoe Sherwood

Similar Posts:






Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion Capital Profile Fashion Event 2011 Review

Kelly Love by Cruz Illustration
Kelly Love by Cruz.

Online fashion portal Fashion Capital has been showcasing their very own catwalk show since 2001. Now in their 10th season, the online trend forecasters have successfully established themselves as the link between Graduate Fashion Week and London Fashion Week. Held at the extravagant Grand Soane Hall at One Marylebone, the press release promised the best of emerging talent from London and beyond, not to mention a little nugget of comedy in the form of Lauren Goodger’s debut collection; the 25-year-old reality TV star mildly famous for her part in The Only Way Is Essex.
 
Kelly Love
Kelly Love
Kelly Love. All photography by Sarah Deane.
 
Holding their own throughout the show was a number of up-and-coming designers, offering wearable, high street tailored designs for S/S 2012. If I’m honest, some of the looks on show wouldn’t have looked too out of place in a Jane Norman-esque store, but the static trade show was successful in delivering a promising variety of new names from here in the UK and around the world.

Jezabel Jones
Jezabel Jones
Jezabel Jones by Estelle Morris
Jezabel Jones by Estelle Morris.
 
ANAR
ANAR
ANAR by Estelle Morris
ANAR by Estelle Morris.

Catching my sceptical eye at the show was London-based Jezabel Jones who showcased minimalist shapes in a straight forward colour palette of black and grey complete with sheer detailing and striking gold chokers. Eurasian-born designer ANAR also delivered a selection of wearable looks with a retro-modernist collection that featured ’20s style skull caps alongside modern body-con dresses and luxe fabrics.
 
Tobi Hannah
Tobi Hannah
Tobi Hannah by Rachel James
Tobi Hannah by Rachel James.

Rachel Antonio
Rachel Antonio by Cruz
Rachel Antonio by Cruz.

Other highlights included sweetly designed summertime shorts and maxi dresses by Australian-based designer Kelly Love. Undoubtedly a little too sickly-sweet for some, the collection featured soft wearing fabrics complete with delicate rose prints in blush and fuchsia pink. Wedding dress designer Tobi Hannah offered an electric range to satisfy all tastes, from elaborate ruffle hem minis to exotic printed dresses in sheer fabrics, whilst Rachel Antonio offered elegant evening wear – notable her extravagant multi-layered maxi dress in red.

Vjera Vilicnik
Vjera Vilicnik
Vjera Vilicnik by Rachel James
Vjera Vilicnik by Rachel James.

Putting on probably the most covetable show of the evening was British designer Vjera Vilicnik, presenting masterfully hand-crafted dresses in white and black complete with ’40s-inspired shapes and opulent bursts of sapphire green.
 
Christina Dami
Christina Dami.

Christopher Waler
Christopher Waler.
 
For those of you interested in what the show’s supposed selling point had to offer, here’s a small snippet of Lauren Goodger‘s debut collection Lauren’s Way. Burning my eyes with flamenco pink dresses and tiered peplum detailing, I’ll spare you from too much trauma with just a couple of images from the pink-infused collection…
 
Lauren's Way
Lauren's Way

Categories ,ANAR, ,Christina Dami, ,Christopher Waler, ,Cruz, ,Estelle Morris, ,fashion, ,Fashion Capital, ,graduate, ,Graduate Fashion Week, ,Grand Soane Hall, ,Jezabel Jones, ,Kelly Love, ,Lauren Goodger, ,Lauren’s Way, ,London Fashion Week, ,One Marylebone, ,Profile, ,Rachel Antonio, ,Rachel James, ,review, ,S/S 2012, ,The Only Way is Essex, ,Tobi Hannah, ,TOWIE, ,Vjera Vilicnik

Similar Posts:






Amelia’s Magazine | Central Saint Martins: Ba Fashion Graduate Show 2011 review. Fashion Madness.

Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Crimson Rose O'Shea photography by Amelia Gregory
Crimson Rose O’Shea. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Thank god for the craziness of fashion! And thank god for the couple of Central Saint Martins students who decided that their graduation catwalk show was exactly the right place to max out their creative juices. These then, side effects are the most far out collections that we saw on Tuesday 31st May 2011. Which of these names will we know in the future? Who knows, website like this but it’s sure fun to gaze on and wonder.

 Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Toma Stenko photography by Amelia Gregory Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Toma Stenko photography by Amelia Gregory Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Toma Stenko photography by Amelia Gregory Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Toma Stenko photography by Amelia Gregory
Crazy blue stockinged swirly coneheads wore Toma Stenko‘s collection of metallic and blue pleated and bulbous shaped dresses.

 Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Andraya Farrag photography by Amelia Gregory Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Andraya Farrag photography by Amelia Gregory Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Andraya Farrag photography by Amelia Gregory Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Andraya Farrag photography by Amelia Gregory
Andraya Farrag based her/his collection on blue and white lacy concoctions worn beneath cages, order echoing a popular trend for hiding faces.

Nutty ideas from Ryohei Kawanishi and Kim Traeger can be seen in my previous blogpost about knitwear.

Crimson Rose O'Shea by Laura Frame
Crimson Rose O’Shea by Laura Frame.

But it was Crimson Rose O’Shea who really took the prize for over the top fashion madness. No surprise then that this collection closed the show. Colour refracting layers of cellophane were stacked with gay abandon over brightly coloured fake fur and crazy beaded adornments. Make up was painted on faces in drunken Mardi Gras style. There was nothing remotely subtle about this eye catching collection that fellow rainbow chaser Fred Butler would surely love. In fact my photographs really don’t do this shimmering swirl any justice at all. What a way to end a ten year stint at York Hall.

Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Crimson Rose O'Shea photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Crimson Rose O'Shea photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Crimson Rose O'Shea photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Crimson Rose O'Shea photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Crimson Rose O'Shea photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Crimson Rose O'Shea photography by Amelia Gregory
Crimson Rose O’Shea.

YouTube Preview Image

Categories ,Andraya Farrag, ,Cellophane, ,Central Saint Martins, ,Crimson Rose O’Shea, ,Fred Butler, ,Graduate Fashion Week, ,Irridescent, ,Kim Traeger, ,Laura Frame, ,Mardi Gras, ,rainbow, ,Ryohei Kawanishi, ,Toma Stenko

Similar Posts: