Graduate Fashion Week – Page 4

Amelia’s Magazine | Central Saint Martins: Ba Fashion Graduate Show 2011 review. Fashion Madness.

Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Crimson Rose O'Shea photography by Amelia Gregory
Crimson Rose O’Shea. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Thank god for the craziness of fashion! And thank god for the couple of Central Saint Martins students who decided that their graduation catwalk show was exactly the right place to max out their creative juices. These then, side effects are the most far out collections that we saw on Tuesday 31st May 2011. Which of these names will we know in the future? Who knows, website like this but it’s sure fun to gaze on and wonder.

Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Toma Stenko photography by Amelia Gregory
Crazy blue stockinged swirly coneheads wore Toma Stenko‘s collection of metallic and blue pleated and bulbous shaped dresses.

Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Andraya Farrag photography by Amelia Gregory
Andraya Farrag based her/his collection on blue and white lacy concoctions worn beneath cages, order echoing a popular trend for hiding faces.

Nutty ideas from Ryohei Kawanishi and Kim Traeger can be seen in my previous blogpost about knitwear.

Crimson Rose O'Shea by Laura Frame
Crimson Rose O’Shea by Laura Frame.

But it was Crimson Rose O’Shea who really took the prize for over the top fashion madness. No surprise then that this collection closed the show. Colour refracting layers of cellophane were stacked with gay abandon over brightly coloured fake fur and crazy beaded adornments. Make up was painted on faces in drunken Mardi Gras style. There was nothing remotely subtle about this eye catching collection that fellow rainbow chaser Fred Butler would surely love. In fact my photographs really don’t do this shimmering swirl any justice at all. What a way to end a ten year stint at York Hall.

Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Crimson Rose O'Shea photography by Amelia Gregory
Crimson Rose O’Shea.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Thursday June 9th, 2011 5:07 pm

Categories ,Andraya Farrag, ,Cellophane, ,Central Saint Martins, ,Crimson Rose O’Shea, ,Fred Butler, ,Graduate Fashion Week, ,Irridescent, ,Kim Traeger, ,Laura Frame, ,Mardi Gras, ,rainbow, ,Ryohei Kawanishi, ,Toma Stenko

Amelia’s Magazine | Central Saint Martins: Ba Fashion Graduate Show 2011 review. Fashion Madness.

Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Crimson Rose O'Shea photography by Amelia Gregory
Crimson Rose O’Shea. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Thank god for the craziness of fashion! And thank god for the couple of Central Saint Martins students who decided that their graduation catwalk show was exactly the right place to max out their creative juices. These then, are the most far out collections that we saw on Tuesday 31st May 2011. Which of these names will we know in the future? Who knows, but it’s sure fun to gaze on and wonder.

Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Toma Stenko photography by Amelia Gregory
Crazy blue stockinged swirly coneheads wore Toma Stenko’s collection of metallic and blue pleated and bulbous shaped dresses.

Nutty ideas from Ryohei Kawanishi and Kim Traeger can be seen in my previous blogpost about knitwear.

Crimson Rose O'Shea by Laura Frame
Crimson Rose O’Shea by Laura Frame.

Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Crimson Rose O'Shea photography by Amelia Gregory
Crimson Rose O’Shea.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Thursday June 9th, 2011 5:07 pm

Amelia’s Magazine | Central Saint Martins: Ba Fashion Graduate Show 2011 review. Japanese.

Jo Qiao Ding Central St Martins by Harriet Alice Fox
Jo Qiao Ding by Harriet Alice Fox.

With so many students from abroad it’s hardly surprising that there was an exotic element to the Central Saint Martins collections from 2011′s graduating students. Japan seemed to be a particularly strong reference point, see in all it’s multi-faceted glory.

Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Jo Qiao Ding photography by Amelia Gregory
Jo Qiao Ding produced a standout collection: huge billowing kimono-esque robe dresses that gaped at the arms to reveal patterned underlining. White collars made the look thoroughly modern.

Manami Sakurai by Kristina Vasiljeva.

Manami Sakurai brought an inimitably cute Japanese streak to the show with quilted animal and face dresses bearing the embroidered words PEACE, thumb I Am A Dreamer and I Love You. For the denouement a girl opened a floppy pillow cradled in her arms to reveal the letters SMILE several feet high. It was hard not to.

Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Manami Sakurai photography by Amelia Gregory
Manami Sakurai. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Runner up for the L’Oreal awards, Momo Wang, also brought a distinct sense of Japanese style to the show. Her smiling models in many colourful layers reminded me of photos taken in the Harajuku area of Tokyo.

Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Momo Wang photography by Amelia Gregory
Momo Wang.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Thursday June 9th, 2011 3:08 pm

Categories ,Central Saint Martins, ,Graduate Fashion Week, ,harajuku, ,Harriet Alice Fox, ,japanese, ,Jo Qiao Ding, ,Kimono, ,Kristina Vasiljeva, ,L’Oreal, ,Manami Sakurai, ,Momo Wang, ,Oriental, ,Oversized, ,tokyo

Amelia’s Magazine | Central Saint Martins: Ba Fashion Graduate Show 2011 review. Knitwear.

Shengwei Wang Woollen Dress by Fawn Carr.

Knitwear is something very close to my heart – I nearly studied it for my degree and I love a good chunky knit jumper more than anything. The maxed out knitwear on show at the Central Saint Martins 2011 graduate show was particularly strong.

Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Shengwei Wang photography by Amelia Gregory
Shengwei Wang. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

My favourite was the amazing oversized textured monochrome collection from Shengwei Wang. Ripples, medicine oblong abstracts and chequerboard squares featured in this simple yet beautiful collection, salve one which I would actually be able to wear, although of course the glorious irony of maxi styling is that it only ever looks spectacularly good on very thin girls.

Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Lowell Delaney photography by Amelia Gregory
Lowell Delaney.

Lowell Delaney presented bright coloured oversized knitwear over nice stripy tailoring but the styling was frankly frightening. Wan death mask make up and limp hair don’t do anything for me at all.

Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Juhee Han photography by Amelia Gregory
Juhee Han.

Juhee Han showed a seriously orange collection of Grecian inspired draped dresses with more oversized cardigan coats and lots of beaded fringing.

Katie Jones by Rebecca Strickson.

Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Katie Jones photography by Amelia Gregory
Katie Jones.

Katie Jones opened her show with a teepee dress over neon netting, which was followed by a series of overgrown crocheted creations that encased the wearers in mounds of wool.

Kim Traeger by Rebecca Strickson.

Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Kim Traeger photography by Amelia Gregory
Kim Traeger.

On the more nutty end of the spectrum Kim Traeger showed rabbits fishing for carrots in knitted masks in a collection heavy on accessory detail.

Ryohei Kawanishi by Harriet Alice Fox.

Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Ryohei Kawanishi photography by Amelia Gregory
Ryohei Kawanishi.

Ryohei Kawanishi went all out in the nuttiness stakes, with social commentary writ large on his outsized mobile knitted homes. A camouflaged tent backed with cardboard uzis was followed by a man mummified in a patchwork homage to our love of Facebook, Twitter and ilk. Totally uncommercial and totally necessary stuff.

More to come soon…

Written by Amelia Gregory on Tuesday June 7th, 2011 3:47 pm

Categories ,Central Saint Martins, ,Facebook, ,Fawn Carr, ,Graduate Shows, ,Harriet Alice Fox, ,Harriet Fox, ,Juhee Han, ,Katie Jones, ,Kim Traeger, ,knitwear, ,Lowell Delaney, ,Rabbits, ,Rebecca Strickson, ,Ryohei Kawanishi, ,Shengwei Wang, ,Social Media, ,twitter

Amelia’s Magazine | Central Saint Martins: Ba Fashion Graduate Show 2011 review. Print.

Holly Fowler CSM Dress by Claire Kearns
Holly Fowler by Claire Kearns.

I’ll always be a print kind of girl – I have a degree in printed textiles after all… and have you seen the way I dress? – but at some of the graduate show stands it seemed that clashing colours had got totally out of control, shop pushing the boundaries of what even I can deal with. On the whole Central Saint Martins students chose to take a more considered approach to print. My favourite work came from Holly Fowler who went a little bit Mary Katrantzou, a little bit Holly Fulton and all out maxi with her stunning oversized jewel prints on long dresses. Absolutely adored these.

Holly Fowler by Michelle Pegrume.

Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Holly Fowler photography by Amelia Gregory
Holly Fowler. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

I wasn’t so enamoured of Lucie Sutton‘s approach, mixing floral and splashy Oriental influenced prints and colours with a punk aesthetic that paid homage to the last days of Central Saint Martins in its Charing Cross home. The school moves to new premises in Kings Cross soon.

Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Lucie Sutton photography by Amelia Gregory
Lucie Sutton.

Alfhild Kulper took a pleated and layered approach that could have given him a spot in my earlier blog post but it was his clever use of print that really stood out for me: I loved the way that faces seemed to emerge from the netting of wide skirts.

Alfhild Kulper Netting Dress by Claire Kearns.

Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Alfhild Kulper photography by Amelia Gregory
Alfhild Kulper.

For Annabel Luton owl and feather imagery was combined with earthy tribal colouring in layered outfits of elegant velvet and chiffon that gave a classic feel.

Khrystyna Famenko by Michelle Pegrume
Annabel Luton by Michelle Pegrume.

Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Annabel Luton photography by Amelia Gregory
Annabel Luton.

Ayako Ohori was another who integrated pleats into a more tailored vision, small patches of layered fabric appearing at neck and at waist on some of her tropical hard shouldered dresses with circuit board prints. This was a very strong look with gorgeous matching clutch bags as accessories.

Ayako Ohori Central Saint Martins by Sam Parr
Ayako Ohori by Sam Parr.

Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Ayako Ohori photography by Amelia Gregory
Ayako Ohori. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Of course the overall winner of the catwalk show was also a print student: check out Flaminia Saccucci’s floral printed latex in my earlier blog.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Thursday June 9th, 2011 11:44 am

Categories ,80s, ,Alfhild Kulper, ,Annabel Luton, ,Ayako Ohori, ,Central Saint Martins, ,Charing Cross Road, ,Claire Kearns, ,Graduate Shows, ,Holly Fowler, ,Holly Fulton, ,Kings Cross, ,Lucie Sutton, ,Mary Katrantzou, ,Maxi dresses, ,Michelle Pegrume, ,Oriental, ,pleats, ,print, ,punk, ,tailored, ,York Hall

Amelia’s Magazine | An interview with Russian fashion designer Pitchouguina

Pitchouguina by Isher Dhiman.

Pitchouguina is the new label from Russian designer Anna, now based in London but producing her collection in Poland. Having first studied economics she is well placed to grow a serious brand, with a style that is both wearable and unique. The A/W 2013 collection features scrumptious floral printed blouses, rough wool fitted dresses and oh-so-tactile fluffy sleeveless jumpers, cleverly mixing folk inspired detailing and Japanese tailoring. I caught up with Anna to discover more about to what expect from her next collection…

pitchouguina_aw13_beigedress
pitchouguina_aw13_beigedress_basic
Firstly, your website is very enigmatic, who is Pitchouguina, and where are you from?
I am originally from Russia, but I have been bouncing around the globe for a little while. From the early stages I was drawn towards a nostalgic, curious and somewhat naive image of a young lady, because as a designer I was always searching for those things while in each different country.

pitchouguina_aw13_jersey
Pitchuguina-by-Veronica-Rowlands
Pitchouguina by Veronica Rowlands.

How did you come to be based in London, and what keeps you here?
It seemed natural to stay in London once I realised how much I have built and created around me. I first came here to spend time gaining work experience with great established designers as well as young designers, and then I opened a company here and now I am planning my first commercially presented collection for S/S 2014.

pitchouguina_aw13_double_knit
pitchouguina_aw13_flowertshirt
How would you describe the Pitchouguina aesthetic?
Dreamy but with the strong beliefs behind those dreams. I hope that my clothes can be adapted to a lot of lifestyles but I think my garments will be chosen over others because of the need to wear something soft, melancholic and maybe even loving.

pitchouguina_aw13_furry_jumper
Pitchouguina AW 13_14 by Tone Gautefald Tveit
Pitchouguina A/W 2013 by Tone Gautefald Tveit.

You have an impressive list of sponsors – how did you go about finding them?
I believe in what I do and I think if you make others believe in it as well you will get results eventually. Finding sponsors is really hard work, but after approaching hundreds of people and being ignored by most I found a few that were exactly the ones that I was looking for.

PITCHOUGUINA_SS 2014
Can you give us a sneak peak into your ideas for next season: what can we expect?
Layering, lots of pinks and lots of covered buttons.

preview_SS14_PITCHOUGUINA_2
What unexpected things inspired the upcoming collection?
I started with baby pink, baby blue and loose sequins in a bag at first and this slowly evolved into what will be shown in a few weeks time. I guess an unexpected part of the new S/S 2014 collection is a bit of a sporty touch, but Pitchouguina is mainly a colour and fabric driven label so if you were to put my mood boards into black and white all the references would seem to go off in many different directions!

What fabrics and silhouettes dominate the upcoming season?
Expect organzas, coloured jeans, gold thread and sweat shirt jerseys. Silhouettes are kept simple but I have worked hard on creating delicate details and fit.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Wednesday August 14th, 2013 10:01 am

Categories ,A/W 2013, ,fashion, ,Fashion Illustration, ,interview, ,Isher Dhiman, ,Pitchouguina, ,poland, ,Russian, ,S/S 2014, ,Tone Gautefald Tveit, ,Veronica Rowlands

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