Amelia’s Magazine | Zeynep Kartal: London Fashion Week S/S 2015 Catwalk Review

Zeynep Kartal by Sine Skau
Zeynep Kartal by Sine Skau.

Turkish born Zeynep Kartal is one of the new influx of foreign born designers who are bringing a little red carpet glamour to the Fashion Scout catwalks. Her SS15 catwalk show opened with zingy lemon yellow floor sweeping gowns – backless, strapless, sheer, asymmetric glamour offset with barely there make up and simple locks worn cascading down the back. Zeynep Kartal’s Efflorescence collection featured plenty of floaty dresses covered in subtle rose pink and white florals inspired by the classic novel The Secret Garden, and for those preferring a darker palette there were boxy dove grey satin tops embellished with beaded starbursts and pleated georgette dresses with plunging necklines and cinched-in waists. A glorious rose encrusted A-line dress made for a playful finale from the Manchester based designer.

Scroll down to watch a video of the collection.

Zeynep Kartal Spring Summer 2015, Illustration by Rosa Crepax and Carlotta Crepax, Illustrated Moodboard for Amelia's Magazine
Zeynep Kartal SS15 by Rosa Crepax and Carlotta Crepax of Illustrated Moodboard.

Zeynep Kartal SS 2015-photo by Amelia Gregory
Zeynep Kartal SS 2015-photo by Amelia Gregory
Zeynep Kartal SS 2015-photo by Amelia Gregory
Zeynep Kartal SS 2015-photo by Amelia Gregory
Zeynep Kartal SS 2015-photo by Amelia Gregory
Zeynep Kartal SS 2015-photo by Amelia Gregory
Zeynep Kartal SS 2015-photo by Amelia Gregory
Zeynep Kartal SS 2015-photo by Amelia Gregory
Zeynep Kartal SS 2015-photo by Amelia Gregory
Zeynep Kartal SS 2015-photo by Amelia Gregory
Zeynep Kartal SS 2015-photo by Amelia Gregory
All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,Catwalk review, ,Efflorescence, ,Evening Wear, ,Fashion Scout, ,floral, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Glamour, ,Illustrated Moodboard, ,London Fashion Week, ,manchester, ,Red carpet, ,Rosa Crepax and Carlotta Crepax, ,S/S 2015, ,Sine Skau, ,SS15, ,The Secret Garden, ,Turkish, ,Zeynep Kartal

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2011 Presentation Review: Eun Jeung

Illustration by Jo Cheung

The organised chaos of London Fashion Week has begun (NB: at the time of writing, find it was the end of the second day) and apart from the excitement at spotting various London boutique owners, pills mild celebrities and the increasing chances of seeing a model stumble from the heady heights of unstable shoes. The week is of course, about FASHION.

From the stalwarts of John Rocha and Betty Jackson to the increasing number of designers titled as “ones to watch,” it is a (to put it mildly) a frantic dash from venue to queue to venue to queue and back to the BFC for a quick cuppa before starting all over again. London Fashion Week is an incredibly enjoyable dash to get to all the events in time, but a dash none the less.

On Friday (17th September 2010) Amelia’s Magazine had the pleasure of touching base with Eun Jeong’s S/S 11 static presentation in the alcoves of the Russell Chambers in Covent Garden. The designer’s studio presentation was set amidst the odd jumble of relics frequently obtained during the industrious weeks leading up to London Fashion Week.

The press pack moved hapazadly through the three rooms of the exhibition documenting the clothes positioned on mannikins or the exceptionally pretty seated or standing models who occupied the fringes of the space, within and enclosed by the detritus of the design process.

Illustration by Jo Cheung

One of the presentation rooms consisted entirely of props painted white, which rather effectively set off the crystal-embellished shoes. The white dresses saw a return to the draping with which Eun Jeung won the Fashion Fringe award in 2008.

The main room – whose entrance was achieved after a brisk walk up five flights of stairs – where the models were positioned, produced an eye catching jumpsuit, whose beautifully delicate floral pattern was reminiscent of Future Classics.

The third attic room occupied solely by mannikins included a dress which resonated in its simplicity. The tunic was completed by intricate black beading contrasted with delicate drapes across the breadth of the dress.

Looking at the standard of Eon Jeung’s designs for S/S 2011, it is hard to believe that it was only a few years ago Eun Jeong graduated from THAT Central Saint Martin’s MA.

Illustration by Jo Cheung

During the lead up to the S/S 2011 collections, Amelia’s Magazine heard the rather exciting news that Eun Jeong is also an illustrator – Eun we would love to see your drawings!

Categories ,british fashion council, ,draping, ,Eun Jeong, ,Fashion Fringe, ,floral, ,illustrations, ,Jo Cheung, ,lace, ,London Fashion Week, ,S/S 2011, ,Saint Martins MA, ,SS11

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2011 Catwalk Review: Carlotta Gherzi for Sado


Illustration by Avril Kelly

Finally escaping the intermittent drizzle, shop medications I find myself standing in a beautiful hall within the restored Northumberland House in Trafalgar Square. The ornate ceiling is touching the sky and the splendour of its Victorian past hushes the crowd. The audience here appears slightly subdued. Notepads out, information pills pens uncapped and eyes focused on the catwalk. Tiptoeing at the back, I strain to view the runway. I’m anticipating what Suzanne Clements and Inacio Ribeiro will bring to the catwalk to tease our fashion palettes. Spotlights alight causing the last of the whispers to subside and all gaze expectantly at the white path ahead, as the soundtrack strikes.

Enter structured jackets embellished with heraldic embroidery and printed silk skirts, jumpsuits and dresses in autumn colours, burnt orange and berry red. The prints vary, from pretty paisleys to luxurious leopard print. I’m not usually attracted to animal print, but I’m longing for the paisley meets leopard print dress, sporting blue silk detail on the neck and shoulders. It’s simple and elegant but not at all banal. High necks, low cinched waists and midi length skirts in vivid blue and red make for graceful dresses that suggest a marriage of Victoriana and 1970s styles. Bold and neutral colours follow, sheathed in dazzling gems that revive nostalgia for the 1950s.


Live catwalk illustration by Jenny Robins

The colours fade into cloudy greys, biscuit beiges and ice blues for the inconspicuous in you and luxurious brocades make up beautiful jackets, not unlike those gentlemen’s smoking jackets of a bygone vintage era. The catwalk darkens and we’re engulfed in black. Black lace, black wool, black silk – all combine to forge pretty, yet formal, dresses and blouses. I’m rarely taken in by designs in black, but these really are lovely. The vintage inspired shoes and patterned tights play a key part in the presentation, complimenting a largely conservative but beautiful collection.

My height has failed me and my photographs are painfully poor, but I leave contented and pleased to have spied a wonderful show.

All photography by Akeela Bhattay

Illustration by Avril Kelly

Finally escaping the intermittent drizzle, remedy I find myself standing in a beautiful hall within the restored Northumberland House in Trafalgar Square. The ornate ceiling is touching the sky and the splendour of its Victorian past hushes the crowd. The audience here appears slightly subdued. Notepads out, pilule pens uncapped and eyes focused on the catwalk. Tiptoeing at the back, unhealthy I strain to view the runway. I’m anticipating what Suzanne Clements and Inacio Ribeiro will bring to the catwalk to tease our fashion palettes. Spotlights alight causing the last of the whispers to subside and all gaze expectantly at the white path ahead, as the soundtrack strikes.

Enter structured jackets embellished with heraldic embroidery and printed silk skirts, jumpsuits and dresses in autumn colours, burnt orange and berry red. The prints vary, from pretty paisleys to luxurious leopard print. I’m not usually attracted to animal print, but I’m longing for the paisley meets leopard print dress, sporting blue silk detail on the neck and shoulders. It’s simple and elegant but not at all banal. High necks, low cinched waists and midi length skirts in vivid blue and red make for graceful dresses that suggest a marriage of Victoriana and 1970s styles. Bold and neutral colours follow, sheathed in dazzling gems that revive nostalgia for the 1950s.


Live catwalk illustration by Jenny Robins

The colours fade into cloudy greys, biscuit beiges and ice blues for the inconspicuous in you and luxurious brocades make up beautiful jackets, not unlike those gentlemen’s smoking jackets of a bygone vintage era. The catwalk darkens and we’re engulfed in black. Black lace, black wool, black silk – all combine to forge pretty, yet formal, dresses and blouses. I’m rarely taken in by designs in black, but these really are lovely. The vintage inspired shoes and patterned tights play a key part in the presentation, complimenting a largely conservative but beautiful collection.

My height has failed me and my photographs are painfully poor, but I leave contented and pleased to have spied a wonderful show.

All photography by Akeela Bhattay


Illustration by Emma Block

When I asked a friend for London Fashion Week advice, physician I was told that I would need a pair of sensible shoes and a pair of killer heels. On my way to Carlotta Gherzi for SADO at Vauxhall Fashion Scout, visit this site my killer heels were safely stashed in my official London Fashion Week tote bag and my sensible brogues were getting soaked. I attempted to power walk through the rain in a ladylike manner, decease which resulted in something resembling a trot, and made my way towards the impressive and mysterious Freemasons Hall.


Illustration by Natasha Thompson

This was to be my first show I had attended solo, and I was very conscious of being late. I waited in-line with some reassuringly non-scary fashion types, and when I said I was from Amelia’s Magazine I was immediately whisked away to the front row. As an occupier of a coveted A- list seat, I was entitled to a Fashion Scout goodie bag, which included a bottle of water, a Vauxhall notepad (surprisingly quite nice) and a can of hair shine spray. People around me chatted, but I was only focused on my sketchbook. As I waited in eager anticipation, feet resting on the edge of the white catwalk, the lights began to dim.

Gherzi’s collection, named ‘Frozen Flora’, “for the wicked gal whose secret dream is to be the ice queen”, started with distinctly wearable, rather delicious pieces in soft tones reminiscent of mochas and iced lattes.

I quickly realised what a fantastic seat I had; taking unobstructed photos was effortless and if I had been creepy and inappropriate I definitely could have touched the models. I was definitely close enough to tell that texture was a big element in Gherzi’s work. Silks were draped and ruched, metallic fabrics pleated into undulating waves, and my favourite had to be the beautiful organic wool that appeared almost quilted.


Illustration by Emma Block

The make-up on the models was minimal, with only subtle white highlights in the area between eye and nose, and hair had a crisply ironed in crease in the middle of its lengths. The choice of music was poppy, and tunes included the likes of Snow Patrol and Plan B.

As the show went on, richly textured blacks and pleated metallic greys crept into the soft, otherwise neutral tones of the clothes, rather like the sun going down on an icy day. Shimmering dresses shone like a cold night sky full of stars, with the occasional snug grey sheepskin cape. By this point I had already compiled a mental shopping list of pieces I’d like to own.


Illustration by Natasha Thompson

Gherzi has designed her own floral prints, which looked like sparkling jewels, and featured in both of asymmetric, flowing silk numbers and short paneled dresses. All of Gherzi’s pieces struck me as very feminine and incredibly wearable. The textured wool capes and jackets were a particular favourite of mine, as they were stylish statement pieces guaranteed to keep you toasty warm on the most miserable of London days. Gherzi herself says, “A female of distinction always looks her best, when she’s completely at ease whatever the weather throws at her”, I’ve got to say I rather agree with her. 

The final piece was a full length sparkling creation worthy of any ice queen or red carpet starlet; low cut at the back, empire line and ruched across the bust, with subtle hints of pink glitter.

As the show ended, models cascaded on to the runway along with the heavily pregnant, and very lovely looking, Carlotta Gherzi herself, and the crowd erupted into applause. 

All photography by Emma Block

You can see more of both Emma Block and Natasha Thompson’s illustrations in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration.

Categories ,A/W 2011, ,Carlotta Gherzi, ,Catwalk review, ,Emma Block, ,fashion, ,floral, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,Natasha Thompson, ,Vauxhall Fahsion Scout

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2011 Catwalk Review: Carlotta Gherzi for Sado


Illustration by Avril Kelly

Finally escaping the intermittent drizzle, shop medications I find myself standing in a beautiful hall within the restored Northumberland House in Trafalgar Square. The ornate ceiling is touching the sky and the splendour of its Victorian past hushes the crowd. The audience here appears slightly subdued. Notepads out, information pills pens uncapped and eyes focused on the catwalk. Tiptoeing at the back, I strain to view the runway. I’m anticipating what Suzanne Clements and Inacio Ribeiro will bring to the catwalk to tease our fashion palettes. Spotlights alight causing the last of the whispers to subside and all gaze expectantly at the white path ahead, as the soundtrack strikes.

Enter structured jackets embellished with heraldic embroidery and printed silk skirts, jumpsuits and dresses in autumn colours, burnt orange and berry red. The prints vary, from pretty paisleys to luxurious leopard print. I’m not usually attracted to animal print, but I’m longing for the paisley meets leopard print dress, sporting blue silk detail on the neck and shoulders. It’s simple and elegant but not at all banal. High necks, low cinched waists and midi length skirts in vivid blue and red make for graceful dresses that suggest a marriage of Victoriana and 1970s styles. Bold and neutral colours follow, sheathed in dazzling gems that revive nostalgia for the 1950s.


Live catwalk illustration by Jenny Robins

The colours fade into cloudy greys, biscuit beiges and ice blues for the inconspicuous in you and luxurious brocades make up beautiful jackets, not unlike those gentlemen’s smoking jackets of a bygone vintage era. The catwalk darkens and we’re engulfed in black. Black lace, black wool, black silk – all combine to forge pretty, yet formal, dresses and blouses. I’m rarely taken in by designs in black, but these really are lovely. The vintage inspired shoes and patterned tights play a key part in the presentation, complimenting a largely conservative but beautiful collection.

My height has failed me and my photographs are painfully poor, but I leave contented and pleased to have spied a wonderful show.

All photography by Akeela Bhattay

Illustration by Avril Kelly

Finally escaping the intermittent drizzle, remedy I find myself standing in a beautiful hall within the restored Northumberland House in Trafalgar Square. The ornate ceiling is touching the sky and the splendour of its Victorian past hushes the crowd. The audience here appears slightly subdued. Notepads out, pilule pens uncapped and eyes focused on the catwalk. Tiptoeing at the back, unhealthy I strain to view the runway. I’m anticipating what Suzanne Clements and Inacio Ribeiro will bring to the catwalk to tease our fashion palettes. Spotlights alight causing the last of the whispers to subside and all gaze expectantly at the white path ahead, as the soundtrack strikes.

Enter structured jackets embellished with heraldic embroidery and printed silk skirts, jumpsuits and dresses in autumn colours, burnt orange and berry red. The prints vary, from pretty paisleys to luxurious leopard print. I’m not usually attracted to animal print, but I’m longing for the paisley meets leopard print dress, sporting blue silk detail on the neck and shoulders. It’s simple and elegant but not at all banal. High necks, low cinched waists and midi length skirts in vivid blue and red make for graceful dresses that suggest a marriage of Victoriana and 1970s styles. Bold and neutral colours follow, sheathed in dazzling gems that revive nostalgia for the 1950s.


Live catwalk illustration by Jenny Robins

The colours fade into cloudy greys, biscuit beiges and ice blues for the inconspicuous in you and luxurious brocades make up beautiful jackets, not unlike those gentlemen’s smoking jackets of a bygone vintage era. The catwalk darkens and we’re engulfed in black. Black lace, black wool, black silk – all combine to forge pretty, yet formal, dresses and blouses. I’m rarely taken in by designs in black, but these really are lovely. The vintage inspired shoes and patterned tights play a key part in the presentation, complimenting a largely conservative but beautiful collection.

My height has failed me and my photographs are painfully poor, but I leave contented and pleased to have spied a wonderful show.

All photography by Akeela Bhattay


Illustration by Emma Block

When I asked a friend for London Fashion Week advice, physician I was told that I would need a pair of sensible shoes and a pair of killer heels. On my way to Carlotta Gherzi for SADO at Vauxhall Fashion Scout, visit this site my killer heels were safely stashed in my official London Fashion Week tote bag and my sensible brogues were getting soaked. I attempted to power walk through the rain in a ladylike manner, decease which resulted in something resembling a trot, and made my way towards the impressive and mysterious Freemasons Hall.


Illustration by Natasha Thompson

This was to be my first show I had attended solo, and I was very conscious of being late. I waited in-line with some reassuringly non-scary fashion types, and when I said I was from Amelia’s Magazine I was immediately whisked away to the front row. As an occupier of a coveted A- list seat, I was entitled to a Fashion Scout goodie bag, which included a bottle of water, a Vauxhall notepad (surprisingly quite nice) and a can of hair shine spray. People around me chatted, but I was only focused on my sketchbook. As I waited in eager anticipation, feet resting on the edge of the white catwalk, the lights began to dim.

Gherzi’s collection, named ‘Frozen Flora’, “for the wicked gal whose secret dream is to be the ice queen”, started with distinctly wearable, rather delicious pieces in soft tones reminiscent of mochas and iced lattes.

I quickly realised what a fantastic seat I had; taking unobstructed photos was effortless and if I had been creepy and inappropriate I definitely could have touched the models. I was definitely close enough to tell that texture was a big element in Gherzi’s work. Silks were draped and ruched, metallic fabrics pleated into undulating waves, and my favourite had to be the beautiful organic wool that appeared almost quilted.


Illustration by Emma Block

The make-up on the models was minimal, with only subtle white highlights in the area between eye and nose, and hair had a crisply ironed in crease in the middle of its lengths. The choice of music was poppy, and tunes included the likes of Snow Patrol and Plan B.

As the show went on, richly textured blacks and pleated metallic greys crept into the soft, otherwise neutral tones of the clothes, rather like the sun going down on an icy day. Shimmering dresses shone like a cold night sky full of stars, with the occasional snug grey sheepskin cape. By this point I had already compiled a mental shopping list of pieces I’d like to own.


Illustration by Natasha Thompson

Gherzi has designed her own floral prints, which looked like sparkling jewels, and featured in both of asymmetric, flowing silk numbers and short paneled dresses. All of Gherzi’s pieces struck me as very feminine and incredibly wearable. The textured wool capes and jackets were a particular favourite of mine, as they were stylish statement pieces guaranteed to keep you toasty warm on the most miserable of London days. Gherzi herself says, “A female of distinction always looks her best, when she’s completely at ease whatever the weather throws at her”, I’ve got to say I rather agree with her. 

The final piece was a full length sparkling creation worthy of any ice queen or red carpet starlet; low cut at the back, empire line and ruched across the bust, with subtle hints of pink glitter.

As the show ended, models cascaded on to the runway along with the heavily pregnant, and very lovely looking, Carlotta Gherzi herself, and the crowd erupted into applause. 

All photography by Emma Block

You can see more of both Emma Block and Natasha Thompson’s illustrations in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration.

Categories ,A/W 2011, ,Carlotta Gherzi, ,Catwalk review, ,Emma Block, ,fashion, ,floral, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,Natasha Thompson, ,Vauxhall Fahsion Scout

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2011 Catwalk Review: Erdem


Illustration by Erica Sharp

So Designers Remix is the project of Charlotte Eskildsen who has designed for the woman with an “avant garde angle on sophistication” whatever that means. But her collection wasn’t shown in the archetypical fashion show setting that everyone has – no, website like this look this was a living presentation. Now without being snobbish these ‘presentations’ can sometimes be frankly boring, but this was just a bit different. Generally these designers displays their wares on some pretty coat hangers and expects you to coo over it whilst placing a few press releases on windowsills.

But Designers Remix was done a little differently with real life models. Walking into the Portico Rooms in Somerset House you’re struck by two of the aforementioned posing together in front of a painted pillar with the highest fully coiffed beehives I’ve seen in a long time. Sporting a ruffled dress in a satin material maybe best saved for the high street it’s wasn’t the key piece I was expecting to see, but the frilled coat she was standing next to (on a model don’t worry) was very Celine-chic: minimlist and camel.


Live illustrations by Jenny Robins

The inspiration for her pieces was the Palais Royal in Paris; she looked at mixing the look of the elaborate architecture with the striped columns in the courtyard. And the ruffles on the above dress and coat were inspired by the Tuleries Garden and, ironically, French Poodles? Ok so this is very avant-garde. As you walked around the live exhibition, the pieces appealed to my taste more and more. A navy blue column coat with dainty silver buttons was stunning (collarless and mid-length is what you need for A/W 2011) whilst a silky draped tangerine dress stood out from the otherwise minimal colour palette. Strangely though, it was the clothes on the hangers that appealed to me more than the pieces shown on the models.

A rack of butter-soft leather and suede mix jackets (known as the Bilbao) and grey ribbed jumpers (known as the Kissher) with point detailing on the sleeves was so perfect I wanted to throw it on right that minute. As seen at Daks, the look du jour for A/W 2011 will be thick jumpers over silky skirts so Eskilden is right on-trend with her thinking. The pieces seemed quite disjointed as if they weren’t part of the same collection, though – as lovely as they were.


Illustration by Erica Sharp

There was definitely lots of beautiful pieces from the designer, and as my first time seeing her collection, I’m impressed if not a little bit confused. Eskilden works with the feminine shape to tailor the pieces and has an imperative knack for getting drapes falling beautifully down the body. I think it’s the concept that confuses me; sometimes fashion is just too clever for its own good.

All photography by Jemma Crow


Illustrations by Joe Turvey

Oh-how-well we know Erdem for those bold florals of his, no rx shining through to the forefront of every London Fashion Week – regardless of whether they’re ‘on trend’ or not. Luckily for him, website like this a couple of years ago his Spring/Summer floral collection ticked all the trend boxes and seduced many eyes in his direction, website including my own. And now? Well, one really had to be there, in the overflowing frenzy that was his A/W show at University of Westminster on Monday, to understand just how important Erdem Moralioglu has become.

Anna Wintour. Hilary Alexander. Sarah Mower. Rebecca Lowthorpe. It was a congregation of the some of the world’s most powerful fashion figures. The bigwigs passed me whilst I stood at the front of the Standing Tickets queue for a mere HOUR. Hence why you wear comfy shoes to London Fashion Week, people. It is, of course, extremely hard to get hundreds into a venue within a small period of time, but all-in-all entrance to the show was a bit of a nightmare. As celebs such as Alexa Chung, Olivia Palermo and Sam Cam swanned-on through to comfy seats at the front row, countless numbers of us were stood in the cold. Unfortunately, this is the way of fashion, but it would prove worth it.

Standing at the front of the queue, I was expecting a spectacular view, be-it standing up! However, most of us with standing tickets, including me, were placed on a balcony high above the catwalk with only a few being able to see anything! The clothes that graced the catwalk as the lights dimmed made-up for the disappointment.

Classical music with a heavy base boomed across the space, with a catwalk that zig-zagged around the large room. Every inch of every garment was either saturated in bold print or soaked in bright, block colour, with blue, pink and purple dominating the palette. Every model was elevated by killer high-heel red footwear courstesy of Nicholas Kirkwood. The look was girly, but powerfully imposing.

The dresses were so jaw-droppingly elegant it was as if they were made solely for the red carpet. It was all floor-skimming shimmering fabric with classy high-necks and sexy low-backs. And not forgetting the long gloves in matching print to complete. The style was ever-so ladylike with many shorter dresses baring a pencil-skirt finish.

Erdem, once again, took his trademark florals in a new direction with a more blended print design that looked almost as if it had come straight-off a Monet masterpiece. After the final stretch of models had sauntered off the runway, the designer himself peeked out from the curtain with a smile and disappeared, just-in time to recieve the huge cheers and applaud from the star-studded crowd. A well-deserved appreciation for one of London Fashion Week’s most-loved designers.

Categories ,A/W 2011, ,Alexa Chung, ,Anna Wintour, ,Catwalk review, ,Erdem, ,fashion, ,floral, ,Hilary Alexander, ,London Fashion Week, ,Monet, ,Nicholas Kirkwood, ,Olivia Palermo, ,Rebecca Lowthorpe, ,samantha cameron, ,Sarah Mower

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Amelia’s Magazine | LCF MA Fashion Show 2013, Womenswear: London Fashion Week Catwalk Review

Yi Xie by Jacqueline Valencia
Yi Xie by Jacqueline Valencia.

London College of Fashion womenswear designers showed a series of polished collections, most of which were accessoried with amazing footwear that I was able to ogle as the models climbed the reflective steps onto the raised catwalk at the Royal Opera House.

LCF MA fashion AW 2013-Maddalena Mangialavori
LCF MA fashion AW 2013-Maddalena Mangialavori
LCF MA fashion AW 2013-Maddalena Mangialavori
Maddalena Mangialavori applied raffia fringing to loose fitting dresses, and pretty ruffs to bodices worn with A-line and pencil skirts. Lop-sided low-brimmed hats collapsed over one eye, lending a jaunty air to muted colours in a variety of different textures.

LCF MA fashion AW 2013 Nadia Scullion
LCF MA fashion AW 2013 Nadia Scullion
Nadia Scullion played with ice cream shades; pastel blues and lemon yellow layered together to create a collection of clean lines that were broken with raggy edged socks and collars. A darker coat decorated with a baby blue waist trim was one of the pieces that caught my eye.

LCF MA fashion AW 2013-Min Wu
LCF MA fashion AW 2013-Min Wu
LCF MA fashion AW 2013-Min Wu
LCF MA fashion AW 2013-Min Wu
Min Wu‘s beautiful collection took the concept of tie-dye to a new level; jelly coloured panels fading into creamy white furls of fabric that lay flat against the waist or swung nonchalantly from the neck. Plastic soled shoes worked brilliantly with these gorgeous garments.

LCF MA fashion AW 2013-Sian Davies
LCF MA fashion AW 2013-Sian Davies
Sian Davies worked in blocky oatmeal shades; tight latex paired with over-sized tops.

LCF MA fashion AW 2013-Yi Xie
LCF MA fashion AW 2013-Yi Xie
LCF MA fashion AW 2013-Yi Xie
yi xie
LFW Yi Xie by Angela Lamb
Yi Xie by Angela Lamb.

I absolutely adored the work of Yi Xie, as did my instagram feed when I shared a photo of her intricate pleated trouser suit, luscious flames of orange licking against the vibrating blues on shoulder, waist and calves. I can see her undulating body con dresses selling really well.

LCF MA fashion AW 2013-Keiko Nishiyama
LCF MA fashion AW 2013-Keiko Nishiyama
LCF MA fashion AW 2013-Keiko Nishiyama
LCF-MA_by_Gaarte
Keiko Nishiyama by Gaarte.

Last and by no means least came possibly my favourite collection of all: Keiko Nishiyama covered blowsy shirts and bib fronted dresses with stunning engineered floral prints that made the digital revolution all her own: fields of flowers on a white ground were styled with matching patterned tights and peasant shoes with exaggerated up-turned toes. Just delightful!

LCF MA fashion AW 2013-Keiko Nishiyama
LCF MA fashion AW 2013-Keiko Nishiyama
All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,2013, ,Angela Lamb, ,bodycon, ,Digital Prints, ,floral, ,Gaarte, ,graduate, ,Jacqueline Valencia, ,Keiko Nishiyama, ,London College of Fashion, ,London Fashion Week, ,Maddalena Mangialavori, ,Min Wu, ,Nadia Scullion, ,review, ,Royal Opera House, ,Sian Davies, ,Womenswear, ,Yi Xie

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Amelia’s Magazine | LFW 09 – Betty Jackson S/S 2009 – Betty goes POP!

bettyjackson6

Literally everyone has hailed Betty Jackson’s show as homage to the pretty, view cute and the demure. No, no and no again! I get it, there were lots of ruffles, pastels and accentuated waists.

bettyjackson4

bettyjackson

But these observers have turned a blind eye to her more striking and bold claims about what is hot for Spring/Summer 2010. I think Ms Jackson is spelling out the merits of a cheekiness and fashion that shouldn’t be taken too seriously. Amen!

bettyjackson8

Take for example the pop sock, which was worn as a staple throughout the collection. Not only were they worn at a weirdly raunchy mid-calf, but many also shone out in almost fluorescent shades.

bettyjackonson6

bettyjackson3

A far cry from demure girl-next-door. Equally the space-aged metallic fabrics have been somewhat overlooked. Look at the bra that shines from under a printed puffed-sleeved jacket, or the art deco shape of the wedged shoes.

bettyjackson5

bettyjackson2

bettyjackson7

Rather than radiating classic prettiness, a feeling of casual ditsyness is present, where style is about effortlessness.

A Betty girl is a liberated girl.

bettyjackson9

All photographs by Francesca Weber-Newth

Categories ,Betty Jackson, ,floral, ,London Fashion Week 2009, ,pop, ,Somerset House

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Amelia’s Magazine | Graduate Fashion Week 2011 Gala Awards Show: Womenswear Print

GFW - Meg Cornwell by Madi
Meg Cornwell by Madi.

I am sure my regular readers will not be surprised to hear that it was the print designers who won my heart at the Graduate Fashion Awards Gala Awards. Never be afraid of colour and pattern my friends…

Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Meg Cornwell 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Meg Cornwell 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Meg Cornwell 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Meg Cornwell 2011
Meg Cornwell_by_AlisonDay
Meg Cornwell by Alison Day.

My very favourite had to be Meg Cornwell of Bournemouth University, click who unfortunately went home empty handed. I loved her combinations of flirty bell shaped minis splashed with abstract prints in a gorgeous colour palette of steel, rx maroon and pale blue, all accessorised with ruffled silver crop jackets. I would never have guessed it but her final collection was based on racing car engineering, with the prints inspired by car headlights. Follow Meg Cornwell on twitter.

GFW Christina Economo by Claire Kearns
Christina Economo by Claire Kearns.

Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Christina Economou 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Christina Economou 2011
Christina Economou showed a dashing collection of silky clashing prints in bold purple geometrics and splashy florals. Think high waistlines and high necklines.

Dominique Kral Graduate Fashion Week 2011 by Sarah Harman
Dominique Kral by Sarah Harman.

Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Dominique Kral 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Dominique Kral 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Dominique Kral 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Dominique Kral 2011
Dominque Kral impressed with a confident collection that encompassed digital prints and cable knitwear.

GFW - Marrisa Owen by Madi
Marrisa Owen by Madi.

Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Marrisa Owen 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Marrisa Owen 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Marrisa Owen 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Marrisa Owen 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Marrisa Owen 2011
Marissa Owen was the worthy Womenswear Award winner, mixing stunning Japanese style prints with gingham and florals in this ambitious collection.

Shirana Chavda Graduate Fashion Week 2011 by Sarah Harman
Shirana Chavda Graduate Fashion Week 2011 by Sarah Harman.

Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Shirana Chavda 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Shirana Chavda 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Shirana Chavda 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Shirana Chavda 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Shirana Chavda 2011
Shirana Chavda of De Montfort University went for splashy colour in her loose print collection. I liked the leopard print wide leg pants and the huge beady reptilian eyeball on a crop top.

Categories ,Alison Day, ,Bournemouth University, ,Christina Economou, ,Claire Kearns, ,De Montford University, ,De Montfort University, ,Dominque Kral, ,floral, ,Gala Awards, ,Gingham, ,Graduate Fashion Week, ,japanese, ,Madi, ,Madi Illustrates, ,Marissa Owen, ,Meg Cornwell, ,print, ,Sarah Harman, ,Shirana Chavda, ,Womenswear

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Amelia’s Magazine | New Designers 2015: Floral, Jungle and Narrative Textile and Surface Design

New Designers Emily Ward
Next up in my coverage of New Designers 2015 part one I present more favourite textile and surface design – this time concentrating on florals, narrative designs and a popular jungle theme. Emily Ward at Norwich Uni put together a fabulous display showcasing her designs on lampshades.

New Designers Zoe Cook
Beautiful birds feature on this lovely silk scarf by Zoe Cook.

New Designers Marcia La Madrid
This lovely knitwear installation from Marcia La Madrid makes creative use of the very popular rubber plant motif.

New Designers Krupti Valgi
This lovely rich textile design is by Valgi Krupti at Bucks New University.

New Designers Wendy Connington
The 50s influence was strong with Wendy Connington at Loughborough Uni.

New Designers Alice Greaves
Fun prints from Alice Greaves have a narrative feel.

New Designers Izzy Dryburgh
Izzy Dryburgh pursues the ever popular butterflies theme.

New Designers Rachel Whichelow
Juicy florals by Rachel Whichelow at Huddersfield make brilliant use of sunny colours.

New Designers Hannah Reuters
Hannah Reuter had fun with this lovely liquorice allsorts textile design.

New Designers Emily Downer
A Day at the Zoo is by Emily Downer at Falmouth Uni.

New Designers Jemma Scanlon
Sophisticated embroidery created by Jemma Scanlon.

New Designers Jessica Boulton
Jessica Boulton was inspired by A Midsummer Night’s Dream to create this stunning scarf – a firm favourite with my followers when I shared this on my instagram feed.

New Designers Emma McClusky
At University of Dundee award winner Emma McCluskey created this gorgeous leafy print design.

New Designers Sophie Rolley
Extravagant painterly florals are by Sophie Rolley at Leeds College of Art.

New Designers Suzannah Marakova
Suzannah Marakova created these glamourous decorative designs.

New Designers Hannah Edmonds
This cool scissor pattern is by Hannah Edmonds.

New Designers Joe McFadden
Joe McFadden at Herriot Watt worked the hipster look with dark floral sophistication.

New Designers Hatty Atkins
And finally, pretty patterns inspired by curios by Hatty Atkins at Nottingham Trent Uni.

All of these images first appeared on the New Designers instagram feed (they very kindly asked me to guest post a favourite selection from both part one and part two of the show) or on my instagram feed: follow me there to catch my discoveries as I make them!

Categories ,2015, ,A Day at the Zoo, ,A Midsummer Night’s Dream, ,Alice Greaves, ,Bucks New University, ,Emily Downer, ,Emily Ward, ,Emma McCluskey, ,Falmouth Uni, ,floral, ,Hannah Edmonds, ,Hannah Reuter, ,Hatty Atkins, ,Herriot Watt, ,Huddersfield, ,Izzy Dryburgh, ,Jemma Scanlon, ,Jessica Boulton, ,Joe McFadden, ,jungle, ,Leeds College of Art, ,Loughborough Uni, ,Marcia La Madrid, ,New Designers, ,Norwich Uni, ,Nottingham Trent Uni, ,Rachel Whichelow, ,review, ,Sophie Rolley, ,surface design, ,Suzannah Marakova, ,textiles, ,University of Dundee, ,Valgi Krupti, ,Wendy Connington, ,Zoe Cook

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Amelia’s Magazine | Introducing Occipinti: ‘Wild England’ Floral Interiors Collection by Ashley McDow

Occipinti Moonflower Lilac Curtain
I discovered the maximalist floral designs of Ashley McDow at last year’s Tent London. Having trained in surface pattern at the University of Leeds, she gained experience in the industry before setting up on her own brand in 2013. Occipinti was Ashley’s Sicilian grandmother’s maiden name and means Painted Eyes.

Occipinti portrait
Why did you decide to launch Occipinti, and what is your design background? 
I started Occipinti in 2013 after gaining experience working for menswear brand Duchamp London and then an international textile mill in Mumbai, India, where I designed and supplied fabrics to brands including Harlequin, Christian Fischbacher and Robert Allan. I launched Occipinti because I wanted to provide my clients with luxury printed fabrics with a unique style. There is a demand from people who want distinctive homes and surroundings and Occipinti serves that by offering a traditional subject matter and style with a modern twist.

Occipinti Rushflower Cobalt Curtain
You are inspired by the traditional English countryside – how do you find the right imagery to create your designs and what kind of medium do you use to create the final prints?
Finding the right imagery to use in my designs takes a lot of trial and error. I like to sit outside and paint as many plants as possible. Places such as Kew Gardens are perfect. I tend to work with water colours and gouache because you can water down the colours and layer them up to create a fluid image with lots of texture. I then take them back to my studio in Walthamstow and play around with the layout, combining different elements from some or all of the paintings. The imagery that works the best, are plants with a natural flow to them, like wisteria or ivy. Wisteria is one of my most popular designs.

Occipinti Moonflower Lilac Wallpaper
What is your favourite type of plant or flower to work with and why?
I love working with clusters of colourful flowers. Colour is very important to me as I believe it generates cheerfulness. Yellow is my favourite colour hence why my Golden Bunting Bird design is my favourite and dominates the large wall in my livingroom! I also love plants with lots of varying shades as I can create lots of texture within my paintings. Technical advances within the textile industry, has lead to a lot of designs being produced straight onto the computer, which results in designs looking very flat. I wanted to avoid this flat appearance by created all of my designs with good old fashioned paint.

Occipinti Ceramics
You have recently launched a new ceramics collection, what kind of designs feature on this?
I took one of my original statement patterns from ‘The British Empire Collection’, The Golden Bunting Bird and reinterpreted it. I wanted to create a tasteful and stylish range of ceramics, which would bring design to the table without overpowering it. I am now hoping to add more designs to the range to create a mix and match set that will allow people to create their own unique dining set.

Occipinti Belleflower Curtain
Where can readers buy Occipinti products?
All my products are available online at www.occipinti.com as well as a select few interior shops across the country. My wisteria design is also available across the full sofa.com furniture range. You will find a list of stockists on my website.

Occipinti Painterly Wallpaper
What next for your brand?
I intend to show Occipinti at more international trade shows to gain further brand awareness. I want to help take the Best of British to the whole world. Design is one of the things we do best. I am also in the sampling stage for some new home ware products such as oven gloves, aprons and tea cosy’s. So watch out for those later this year.

Categories ,Ashley McDow, ,Bunting Bird Ceramics, ,Christian Fischbacher, ,Duchamp London, ,fabric, ,floral, ,Golden Bunting Bird, ,Harlequin, ,Interiors, ,Occipinti, ,Painted Eyes, ,Robert Allan, ,Tent London, ,textile, ,The British Empire Collection

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