Anna Wintour – AmeliasMagazine

Amelia’s Magazine | So Long, Sweet Luella, and the rest…

Images throughout courtesy of Me and Zena

Re-engage with your 15 year old self and fall in love with massive ‘Broken Heart’ gold necklaces, buy information pills give in to your inner nerd in the chic ‘Geek Glasses’ necklace, and take the ‘Love-o-meter’ pendant for a spin. If you want to channel Prada then there’s an ‘Atomic Robot’ key charm, or for those greedier customers, why not take the whole shop home in one of the great shopper bags, with ‘You Have The Right To Remain Romantic’ emblazoned on the side. No need to worry those of you who like a bit of matchy-matchy when it comes to accessorising, many of the pendants come in cute charm bracelet form too.

This new line of kitsch accessories comes courtesy of the eponymous, up and coming London based designer Zena McKeown. With a BA in Visual Communication from Edinburgh College of Art, Zena moved to London in 2005 to live the dream, and has seen her homemade designs go from their humble beginnings at the Brick Lane Backyard Market to gracing the pages of Vogue. Of her collection she says: “Me and Zena is about satisfying your inner stroppy teenager.”

Not only is Me & Zena jewellery easy on the eye, but it won’t break the bank either with key rings starting from £8, bracelets from £10 and necklaces from £14, a welcome relief at this time of year!

Re-engage with your 15 year old self and fall in love with massive ‘Broken Heart’ gold necklaces, cheapest give in to your inner nerd in the chic ‘Geek Glasses’ necklace, website like this and take the ‘Love-o-meter’ pendant for a spin. If you want to channel Prada then there’s an ‘Atomic Robot’ key charm, or for those greedier customers, why not take the whole shop home in one of the great shopper bags, with ‘You Have The Right To Remain Romantic’ emblazoned on the side. No need to worry those of you who like a bit of matchy-matchy when it comes to accessorising, many of the pendants come in cute charm bracelet form too.

Re-engage with your 15 year old self and fall in love with massive ‘Broken Heart’ gold necklaces, sales give in to your inner nerd in the chic ‘Geek Glasses’ necklace, capsule and take the ‘Love-o-meter’ pendant for a spin. If you want to channel Prada then there’s an ‘Atomic Robot’ key charm, or for those greedier customers, why not take the whole shop home in one of the great shopper bags, with ‘You Have The Right To Remain Romantic’ emblazoned on the side. No need to worry those of you who like a bit of matchy-matchy when it comes to accessorising, many of the pendants come in cute charm bracelet form too.

Re-engage with your 15 year old self and fall in love with massive ‘Broken Heart’ gold necklaces, viagra 40mg give in to your inner nerd in the chic ‘Geek Glasses’ necklace, pharmacy and take the ‘Love-o-meter’ pendant for a spin. If you want to channel Prada then there’s an ‘Atomic Robot’ key charm, or for those greedier customers, why not take the whole shop home in one of the great shopper bags, with ‘You Have The Right To Remain Romantic’ emblazoned on the side. No need to worry those of you who like a bit of matchy-matchy when it comes to accessorising, many of the pendants come in cute charm bracelet form too.

You don’t have to go far to get your mitts on a piece of these fabulous designs, with stockists ranging from Ad Hoc, Jules and Gems and Lazy Oaf– and that’s just London. So for a bit of fun, eye-catching bling to make a bland outfit pop, hit up Me and Zena and indulge your adolescent self.
Some questions define a generation: where were you when JFK was shot? Or when the Berlin Wall fell? Or when Luella Bartley announced the end of her label in 2009? Whilst I may be overestimating the cultural impact of the latter, troche for lovers of the British label’s comic-book-worm meets aristocratic-party-girl designs, erectile it was a sad day indeed.

Luella SS10, malady image courtesy of Tumblr

In a year that already claimed king of Couture Christian Lacroix, the economy took another bite out of fashion when Luella announced her eponymous brand was to become the latest fashion victims of the recession. The wearable appeal of her clothes combined with a celebrity fan club spearheaded by Alexa Chung was not enough to stop Luella undeservingly and unexpectedly falling by the wayside. Anna Wintour’s inaugural stamp of approval by way of attending Luella’s premature final show suggested the label was heading for even bigger things. The cementing of Bartley’s reputation as a new national institution came earlier in 2009 when she collected the coveted Designer of the Year at the British Fashion Awards.

Christian Lacroix Couture SS09, image courtesy of Stylefrizz.

Luella might have charmed the international stage, showing in Milan and New York, but our British capital remained her city of choice. No label out there quite captured the spirit of young London in the same irreverent but indulgent way, and whilst the clothes might be adorned with enough frills and bows to safely cater an equestrian show, there was always a unique edge to the garments that proved they were made for girls who liked to stay up all night.

Luella SS10, image courtesy of Tumblr

Collections in the past have seen a nod to Ghost World, Batman, Princess Margaret and a menagerie of mismatched acid brights, but Luella’s s/s10 collection suggests that the rebellious, awkward adolescence has been left behind and from its shadow emerges a lighter feminine appeal. Trademark bows and tulle are out in force but softer 60’s inspired curves, bold polka dots and pastels are the cornerstone of Bartley’s final outing. Luella never fails to capture the imagination and her last London Fashion Week was the perfect time to showcase her romantic vision of the thrown-together-decorum of prom dresses topped with birds nest buns, proving that whilst the Luella girl has grown up she hasn’t forgotten where she’s come from, which now has a certain irony for the label too.

Christian Lacroix AW08/09, image courtesy of Getty

So what relevance does this have for the fashion industry as a whole, you may ask. Well whilst it’s not a good thing for the industry to have lost one of the godfather’s of Couture in Lacroix, the British fashion industry and fans alike will also be reeling from the loss of one of our best loved labels in Luella. If anything good can come from this it will be that consumers – like me and you – will hopefully be much more aware of the how much money we are spending on luxury fashion, and be mindful of how fragile fashion is at present, much like every other industry.

Whilst we should support fashion in its time of need, there are many things we can do other than buy expensive items. For starters we can always do more to support independent British designers – especially those who produce and manufacture in the UK. We can also steer clear of supporting the other extreme, by not opting for disposable fashion championed at stores such as Primark. So whilst ‘we’ hate to say it, perhaps with the cyclical nature of fashion, this is nature’s way of keeping the industry accessible to designers of all abilities and financial backing. This will hopefully lead to the emergence of several new designers on the scene in the new decade, not replacing those who sadly got left in the 00’s, but honouring them by moving the industry forward as a whole.

Written by Nina Joyce on Wednesday January 27th, 2010 5:57 pm

Categories ,Alexa Chung, ,Anna Wintour, ,British Fashion Awards, ,Christian Lacroix, ,JFK, ,London Fashion Week, ,Luella Bartley, ,Nina Joyce

Amelia’s Magazine | Mary Katrantzou: London Fashion Week A/W 2012 Catwalk Review

Mary Katrantzou A/W 2012 by Janneke de Jong

Allow me to depict the glamour of fashion week for you. My friends go green with envy when I say I’m ‘doing’ fashion week (or at least they used to, until they saw the state it left me in). My family start ‘wooing’ at the mere mention of it, baffled as to how a coal miner’s son is even allowed in to these places. I’m surprised they haven’t written a letter to the British Fashion Council asking them if they’ve gone mad.

Mary Katrantzou A/W 2012 by Lesley Barnes

Well, here’s how glamorous it is. I began day 5 – Tuesday – by dragging myself out of bed and squeezing myself onto the tube. Sweat poured down my face as I made the not easy decision as to whether to nestle into someone’s armpit or perversely gyrate against somebody’s back. I arrived at the Old Billingsgate venue at 8.30. I joined the standing queue, in the freezing cold, in which I waited for an hour trying to avoid idle chitchat with neighbouring standees. The sun glared on my face in an effort to render me blind. By the time we were allowed into the venue, we were herded like cattle onto a balcony overlooking the show, seats still visible. I felt like a child looking through a closed sweet shop window. Even the balcony was oversubscribed and I was elbowed from all directions. Not for the first time.

Mary Katrantzou A/W 2012 by Mitika Chohan

I could moan for a lot longer, but occasionally you see a show that makes it all worth it. Yes, my friends, it’s time for me to gush about Mary Katrantzou again.

I genuinely believe there isn’t anybody on the London Fashion Week schedule who is as inspiring, revolutionary and innovative as our Mary. There really is no wonder that it’s a scrum to get in, that social media goes wild post-show or that people fall to the floor at the mere mention of her name. Well, that last one I made up, but with the mighty Wintour in attendance the show kicked off and the room fell deathly silent. This season, Mary discovers the beauty in everyday items. Pencils, crayons, spoons and chess pieces are elevated to a sublime status. The invitation I had so carefully clung too in the queue – lenticular no less – featured a spectrum of crayons. It was this spectrum that would unfold in the show.

All photography by Matt Bramford

The first pieces in ivory reminded us of Mary’s unique silhouettes, not that we needed to be reminded. Structured tailoring of a contemporary nature was influenced by Victorian techniques, with exaggerated shoulders and bustle-like elements. Prints featured large spoons and coat hangers, transforming household staples into an iconic items.

Next came the hues – petrol blue, rich red, yellow and green numbers appeared. This season, for the first time, Mary presented ‘matching’ outfits – models wore the same colour head-to-toe. The humble HB pencil was repeated to create a bold, geometric print; a classic watch became the centrepiece of a striking cropped dress.

Mary Katrantzou A/W 2012 by Lesley Barnes

The fashion world mourned the death of François Lesage in December last year – head of Lesage, one of the last French haute couture embroidery houses. It is a fitting tribute that the house has worked with one of our brightest stars this season: the first time it has ever worked with a London designer. ‘No sequin is left unturned’ says Mary, which is pretty evident when you see these pieces. Body-con dresses were embellished with hundreds and thousands of sequins and jewels, and my photographs (and any that I’ve seen online) don’t do these pieces justice, which brought audible gasps to Old Billingsgate.

Mary Katrantzou A/W 2012 by Sarah Jayne Draws

Mary Katrantzou A/W 2012 by Nicola Ellen

There was a hint of old-school Versace in some of the prints, although I say that cautiously because I’ve been thinking that about everything since that infamous H&M collaboration. What this collection really sold was Mary’s inimitable style, whilst still being capable of offering something entirely different. At fashion week you generally find a really good print designer whose silhouettes could do with a bit of work, or vice-versa. But with Mary, you get both.

Mary Katrantzou A/W 2012 by Mitika Chohan

Hail Mary!

Oh, also – here’s that invite for fellow print pervs. Just wonderful.

Written by Matt Bramford on Friday February 24th, 2012 12:59 pm

Categories ,A/W 2012, ,Anna Wintour, ,AW12, ,Balcony, ,catwalk, ,François Lesage, ,Hail Mary!, ,Janneke de Jong, ,Lesage, ,Lesley Barnes, ,London Fashion Week, ,Mary Katrantzou, ,Matt Bramford, ,Old Billingsgate, ,Pencils, ,review, ,Spoons, ,topshop, ,Typewriter, ,Versace

Amelia’s Magazine | Mary Katrantzou: London Fashion Week A/W 2012 Catwalk Review

Mary Katrantzou A/W 2012 by Janneke de Jong

Mary Katrantzou A/W 2012 by Lesley Barnes

Mary Katrantzou A/W 2012 by Mitika Chohan

I could moan for a lot longer, but occasionally you see a show that makes it all worth it. Yes, my friends, it’s time for me to gush about Mary Katrantzou again.

All photography by Matt Bramford

Mary Katrantzou A/W 2012 by Lesley Barnes

Mary Katrantzou A/W 2012 by Sarah Jayne Draws

Mary Katrantzou A/W 2012 by Nicola Ellen

Mary Katrantzou A/W 2012 by Mitika Chohan

Hail Mary!

Oh, also – here’s that invite for fellow print pervs. Just wonderful.

Written by Matt Bramford on Friday February 24th, 2012 12:59 pm

Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2011 Catwalk Review: Erdem

Illustration by Erica Sharp

So Designers Remix is the project of Charlotte Eskildsen who has designed for the woman with an “avant garde angle on sophistication” whatever that means. But her collection wasn’t shown in the archetypical fashion show setting that everyone has – no, website like this look this was a living presentation. Now without being snobbish these ‘presentations’ can sometimes be frankly boring, but this was just a bit different. Generally these designers displays their wares on some pretty coat hangers and expects you to coo over it whilst placing a few press releases on windowsills.

But Designers Remix was done a little differently with real life models. Walking into the Portico Rooms in Somerset House you’re struck by two of the aforementioned posing together in front of a painted pillar with the highest fully coiffed beehives I’ve seen in a long time. Sporting a ruffled dress in a satin material maybe best saved for the high street it’s wasn’t the key piece I was expecting to see, but the frilled coat she was standing next to (on a model don’t worry) was very Celine-chic: minimlist and camel.

Live illustrations by Jenny Robins

The inspiration for her pieces was the Palais Royal in Paris; she looked at mixing the look of the elaborate architecture with the striped columns in the courtyard. And the ruffles on the above dress and coat were inspired by the Tuleries Garden and, ironically, French Poodles? Ok so this is very avant-garde. As you walked around the live exhibition, the pieces appealed to my taste more and more. A navy blue column coat with dainty silver buttons was stunning (collarless and mid-length is what you need for A/W 2011) whilst a silky draped tangerine dress stood out from the otherwise minimal colour palette. Strangely though, it was the clothes on the hangers that appealed to me more than the pieces shown on the models.

A rack of butter-soft leather and suede mix jackets (known as the Bilbao) and grey ribbed jumpers (known as the Kissher) with point detailing on the sleeves was so perfect I wanted to throw it on right that minute. As seen at Daks, the look du jour for A/W 2011 will be thick jumpers over silky skirts so Eskilden is right on-trend with her thinking. The pieces seemed quite disjointed as if they weren’t part of the same collection, though – as lovely as they were.

Illustration by Erica Sharp

There was definitely lots of beautiful pieces from the designer, and as my first time seeing her collection, I’m impressed if not a little bit confused. Eskilden works with the feminine shape to tailor the pieces and has an imperative knack for getting drapes falling beautifully down the body. I think it’s the concept that confuses me; sometimes fashion is just too clever for its own good.

All photography by Jemma Crow

Illustrations by Joe Turvey

Oh-how-well we know Erdem for those bold florals of his, no rx shining through to the forefront of every London Fashion Week – regardless of whether they’re ‘on trend’ or not. Luckily for him, website like this a couple of years ago his Spring/Summer floral collection ticked all the trend boxes and seduced many eyes in his direction, website including my own. And now? Well, one really had to be there, in the overflowing frenzy that was his A/W show at University of Westminster on Monday, to understand just how important Erdem Moralioglu has become.

Anna Wintour. Hilary Alexander. Sarah Mower. Rebecca Lowthorpe. It was a congregation of the some of the world’s most powerful fashion figures. The bigwigs passed me whilst I stood at the front of the Standing Tickets queue for a mere HOUR. Hence why you wear comfy shoes to London Fashion Week, people. It is, of course, extremely hard to get hundreds into a venue within a small period of time, but all-in-all entrance to the show was a bit of a nightmare. As celebs such as Alexa Chung, Olivia Palermo and Sam Cam swanned-on through to comfy seats at the front row, countless numbers of us were stood in the cold. Unfortunately, this is the way of fashion, but it would prove worth it.

Standing at the front of the queue, I was expecting a spectacular view, be-it standing up! However, most of us with standing tickets, including me, were placed on a balcony high above the catwalk with only a few being able to see anything! The clothes that graced the catwalk as the lights dimmed made-up for the disappointment.

Classical music with a heavy base boomed across the space, with a catwalk that zig-zagged around the large room. Every inch of every garment was either saturated in bold print or soaked in bright, block colour, with blue, pink and purple dominating the palette. Every model was elevated by killer high-heel red footwear courstesy of Nicholas Kirkwood. The look was girly, but powerfully imposing.

The dresses were so jaw-droppingly elegant it was as if they were made solely for the red carpet. It was all floor-skimming shimmering fabric with classy high-necks and sexy low-backs. And not forgetting the long gloves in matching print to complete. The style was ever-so ladylike with many shorter dresses baring a pencil-skirt finish.

Erdem, once again, took his trademark florals in a new direction with a more blended print design that looked almost as if it had come straight-off a Monet masterpiece. After the final stretch of models had sauntered off the runway, the designer himself peeked out from the curtain with a smile and disappeared, just-in time to recieve the huge cheers and applaud from the star-studded crowd. A well-deserved appreciation for one of London Fashion Week’s most-loved designers.

Written by Georgia Takacs on Friday February 25th, 2011 5:00 pm

Categories ,A/W 2011, ,Alexa Chung, ,Anna Wintour, ,Catwalk review, ,Erdem, ,fashion, ,floral, ,Hilary Alexander, ,London Fashion Week, ,Monet, ,Nicholas Kirkwood, ,Olivia Palermo, ,Rebecca Lowthorpe, ,samantha cameron, ,Sarah Mower

Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland S/S 2012 in Łódź: Showroom

Kollana Shoes by Celine Elliott.

Time for a quick round up of the best brands that I found in the Showroom at Fashion Week Poland. Held in the industrial sized factory space between the catwalks, this was a chance to catch up with some interesting niche talent from Poland and beyond.

Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-Galadea

First up something a wee bit traditional: Galadea use embroidered folk designs from around Poland as the backbone to a range that includes arm cuffs and colourful belts.

Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-Agata Mocarska
This stand displayed bizarre dolls inspired by famous fashion creatures – in this case Anna Wintour – by designer Agata Mocarska.

Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-Malgorzata Bieniek-Straczek

I was delighted to find the work of an intriguing fashion illustrator on display. Malgorzata Bieniek-Straczek goes under the name of Maggie Piu, and that’s about all I can tell you as the press release was in Polish. Highly decorative stuff.

Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-Fiszerowa
Pretty beaded necklaces by Fiszerowa.

Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-Kollana

Shoes were a real winner – I especially liked these upcycled heels with appliqued animal motifs by Kollana.

Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-Lola Ramona
And there were more cute shoes covered in polka dots and bows at Danish brand Lola Ramona. You can buy Lola Ramona shoes in the UK on Zalando.

Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-Bartek Witek

Bartek Witek had a fetching range of mens’ shirting.

Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-Manitic
Perspex necklaces caught my eye at Manitic.

Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-owl bags

Loved these hand crafted fabric owl bags. Sadly I’ve lost the business card so can’t tell you who made them, though I do know she makes each one by hand, and they were displayed on a fab gold papermache cow. Update! I know who made them now! They are by Monika Wyłoga.

Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-Ekoista

Over in the section dedicated to recycled and environmentally aware fashion I once again met Ekoista, otherwise known as Ania Rutkowska. She creates astonishing jewellery by bending the plastic waste from used drinks bottles.

Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-Dr. Martens
Lastly, Dr. Martens lent their shoes to many of the catwalk shows. Liking the flowery ones!

Written by Amelia Gregory on Friday November 18th, 2011 11:39 am

Categories ,Agata Mocarska, ,Ania Rutkowska, ,Anna Wintour, ,Appliqué, ,Bartek Witek, ,Belts, ,Bottles, ,Celine Elliott, ,Danish, ,Dr. Martens, ,Ekoista, ,Fashion Week Poland, ,Fiszerowa, ,Galadea, ,illustration, ,jewellery, ,Kollana, ,Lodz, ,Lola Ramona, ,Maggie Piu, ,Malgorzata Bieniek-Straczek, ,Manitic, ,menswear, ,Monika Wyłoga, ,owls, ,recycled, ,S/S 2012, ,Shirting, ,shoes, ,Showroom, ,Upcycled, ,Zalando

Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland S/S 2012 in Łódź: Showroom

Kollana Shoes by Celine Elliott.

Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-Agata Mocarska
This stand displayed bizarre dolls inspired by famous fashion creatures – in this case Anna Wintour – by designer Agata Mocarska.

Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-Fiszerowa
Pretty beaded necklaces by Fiszerowa.

Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-Kollana

Shoes were a real winner – I especially liked these upcycled heels with appliqued animal motifs by Kollana.

Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-Bartek Witek

Bartek Witek had a fetching range of mens’ shirting.

Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-Manitic
Perspex necklaces caught my eye at Manitic.

Fashion Week Poland stands SS 2012-Dr. Martens
Lastly, Dr. Martens lent their shoes to many of the catwalk shows. Liking the flowery ones!

Written by Amelia Gregory on Friday November 18th, 2011 11:39 am

Amelia’s Magazine | Photography Book Review: Jim Lee, Arrested

Jim Lee Arrested courtesy of Jo Reeder
‘Aeroplane’ photograph courtesy of Jo Reeder PR, all other photography by Alia Gargum

If there is one thing I could easily spend all my money on, it’s art books. Beautifully printed, embossed, collectable items of temptation that I can never seem to have enough of; I’ve had to firmly steer myself away from the bookshop section of many a gallery in order to stop me buying everything. But, I can’t help myself, and love a gorgeously bound book that will last as resource much longer than a magazine or paperback.

Jim Lee Arrested by Alia Gargum

Timing nicely with his latest exhibition Ammonite Press have produced Arrested, a book about the iconic photography and film work of Jim Lee, who has changed the entire way the industry worked through his 50-year career. Having pioneered fashion photography that was about more than just the consumption of clothes, this book catalogues his most well-known and rarely seen images together in a silver-edged gem of a book.

I knew of Jim Lee‘s work through his photography for Ossie Clarke and the instantly recognisable ‘Aeroplane’ image, above, and found myself recognising more of the work as I read through the book. The large-scale pages work brilliantly for the work and layout of the book, which is presented in chapters to note each stage of Jim Lee‘s career. There is charming insight into Jim Lee‘s life and career from former Style Editor of Harpers & Queen, Peter York, and great quotes from the artist himself, such as “..some of my most successful early photographs were created with a very young fashion editor – only twenty-one – who had a surprisingly direct manner and great style: Anna Wintour…”. Besides working with Anna Wintour, Lee also collaborated with big-name designers such as Yves St Laurent, Gianni Versace and of course Ossie Clark, with work appearing in Elle, the Sunday Times magazine, Harpers & Queen and the New York Times.

Jim Lee Arrested by Alia Gargum

Jim Lee also had an incredible film career, producing over 400 distinctive advertising campaigns for big-name brands like Levi’s, Elizabeth Arden, Esso and British Airways. He also produced a number of films and directed the 1992 full-length feature Losing Track, starring Alan Bates, which echoed the difficult relationship he shared with his own father.

Jim Lee Arrested by Alia Gargum

What I love most about Jim Lee’s work is the stories behind the always beautiful imagery, and the fact that he was able to transfer this feel successfully to film is a testimony to his success. He still collaborates on a number of projects, and has his work displayed in a number of galleries, recently including Somerset House. As an illustrator I wasn’t sure that I would enjoy this book, but have found this collection of imagery from the 1960′s through to modern day not just inspiring but most definitely value for money. Having something a bit different and beautifully made as a part of my reference library makes a change from the tons of saved magazines, blogs and online mood boards. I’m a fan.

Jim Lee Arrested by Alia Gargum

Jim Lee- Arrested is available to purchase online through Ammonite Press and in-store at Harrods, Selfridges and other major book retailers.

Written by Alia Gargum on Thursday June 14th, 2012 10:41 am

Categories ,Ammonite Press, ,Anna Wintour, ,Arrested, ,Book Review, ,British Airways, ,Elizabeth Arden, ,Elle Magazine, ,fashion, ,film, ,Harpers and Queen, ,Jim Lee, ,Jo Reeder PR, ,levis, ,New York Times, ,Ossie Clark, ,photography, ,Somerset House, ,Sunday Times Style Magazine, ,Versace, ,Yves Saint Laurent

Amelia’s Magazine | So Long, Sweet Luella, and the rest…

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