Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2011 Catwalk Presentation: Ashley Isham (reprise)

On any average, dosage abortion non LFW weekend, unhealthy you might find me at one of London’s plethora of craft fairs, order vintage markets or fetes, and what I’m always really impressed by is how wonderfully sellers exhibit their wares. Running a handmade products company myself, I know how testing it can be lugging a dollshouse across town in order to sell handmade stationery from its little rooms;but I’m always convinced its worth it when buyers comment on how much they like the stall set up. So I was surprised and decidedly disappointed to see that many of the exhibitors in Somerset House made little effort to do more than lay their good out on a table. When buyers and journos are looking at tens of jewellery sellers in one location on one day, they really need to do everything they can to make their stall stand out. As creative, inventive individuals, you’d imagine they’d jump at the chance to decorate their own little space, but many simply hung their clothes or spread their pieces out on a surface. So I’m dedicating this post to those who really made an effort, creating settings that reflected their work and really caught my eye. Presentation is no less important on a stall than it is on a catwalk!

Bark jewellery had a traditional British feel,designed by Miwako Yoshioka ; incorporating vintage sheet music and old mannequins in her display.

Comfort Station also excelled themselves with their delicate necklaces exhibited on antique books assembled on the wall.

Jacey Withers’ collection channeled a sort of nautical highway woman; using treasure boxes and other props to present necklaces bearing intricate pirate’s chests, stingrays, shells and rifles.

In the Hedonism room curated by Stephen Jones, hats like Mister Smith’s were beautiful, but none so elaborately displayed ad Piers Atkinson’s hat ‘garden’ with wonderful floral headpieces, novelty fascinators and some less ostentatious veiled hats with beautiful embroidery.
LFW. ISHAM. HAYLEY WARNHAM
Ashley Isham’s amazing headdresses, illness by Hayley Warnham.

I’m never really sure how to take Ashley Isham. On the one hand some of his dresses are quite fabulous, shop he seems to attract quite a cool crowd and has a pretty good rep… on the other hand some of his dresses are frankly tacky.

LFW_Paloma Faith Noisettes stephanie Parr
Paloma Faith and the singer from the Noisettes by Stephanie Parr.

It’s almost as if he’s cornered the market in awards ceremony frocks for the slightly oddball celebrity: outre, but not too out of place on the red carpet. Hence, I guess, the front row presence of the kooky Paloma Faith and that girl whose name I can never remember from the Noisettes.

LFW. ISHAM. HAYLEY WARNHAM
LFW. ISHAM. HAYLEY WARNHAM
LFW. ISHAM. HAYLEY WARNHAM
Ashley Isham by Hayley Warnham.

I’ve only skim read Matt’s blog so that I don’t get swayed by his opinions of the show, but it was enough to note that his photos are way better than mine are: it’s interesting, if you’re taking photos from the audience so much of it is down to pot luck. And this time – despite my seat very close to the pop darlings – I was in quite a shite position for good photos: changing light levels meant I had to change my ISO setting manually as they walked. Not easy I can tell you. And not that I’m making excuses you understand. Still, if you want to see some superb pics I suggest you scurry over to Matt’s blog. They are really quite wonderful. But mine do give ample cause to marvel at the wonderful cut paper surround to the catwalk entrance.

Ashley Isham S/S 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham S/S 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham S/S 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory

There was lots of sheeny satin fabrics, frothy feathers and splashy coloured prints, all accessorised with what I can only describe as some really rather marvellous Hawaiian Geisha headpieces. After the show I espied stylist Tamara Cincik peeking out from backstage. I can only presume these were her doing, and very fabulous too. Now what I’d like to see is someone stride down the red carpet in a posh frock… and one of these hectic hair adornments. Then maybe they’d give that Lady Gaga a run for her money.

Ashley Isham S/S 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham S/S 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham S/S 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham S/S 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham S/S 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham S/S 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham S/S 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham S/S 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham S/S 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham S/S 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham S/S 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham S/S 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory

Categories ,Ashley Isham, ,Geisha, ,Hayley Warnham, ,Lady Gaga, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,Matt Bramford, ,onoff, ,paloma faith, ,Stephanie Parr, ,Tamara Cincik, ,the Noisettes

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2011 Catwalk Review: Falguni & Shane Peacock

Jasper Conran  - Lea Wade
Jasper Conran by Lea Wade.

It’s hard to know what to say about Jasper. I certainly wasn’t expecting the earth to move, order dosage but it’s always nice to come out of a fashion show pleasantly surprised as I did after Paul Costelloe’s extremely strong opener to London Fashion Week.

LFW Jasper Conran by Anna Hancock Young
Jasper Conran by Anna Hancock-Young.

Perhaps Jasper needs to take a leaf out of Paul’s book – it seems that even with the more conservative crowd clothes your mum would be comfortable in at a wedding are no longer in. And what was with the uncomfortable cheesy grins and hideous wide-brimmed netting hats? The styling and choice of models only served to emphasise the Debenhams factor, prostate and I’m sorry but if I wanted high street on a catwalk I’d hot foot it down to Lakeside shopping centre.

Jasper Conran  - Lea Wade
Jasper Conran by Lea Wade.

However, all of this aside, much of the clothing was very sweet and (of course) I couldn’t fault its wearability. Straight up and down monochrome quickly gave way to the most citrus of hues in pleated swing skirts and dresses. The signature print – a painterly 40s inspired beach scene – was featured on the invite and on only one little sundress.

LFW Jasper Conran by Anna Hancock Young
Jasper Conran by Anna Hancock-Young.

Jasper Conran can clearly cut a great garment, so it’s just a shame he doesn’t push the boat out a bit more for London Fashion Week. Here’s hoping for more next time around.
Jasper Conran  - Lea Wade
Jasper Conran by Lea Wade.

It’s hard to know what to say about Jasper. I certainly wasn’t expecting the earth to move, patient but it’s always nice to come out of a fashion show pleasantly surprised as I did after Paul Costelloe’s extremely strong opener to London Fashion Week.

LFW Jasper Conran by Anna Hancock Young
Jasper Conran by Anna Hancock-Young.

Perhaps Jasper needs to take a leaf out of Paul’s book – it seems that even with the more conservative crowd clothes your mum would be comfortable in at a wedding are no longer in. And what was with the uncomfortable cheesy grins and hideous wide-brimmed netting hats? The styling and choice of models only served to emphasise the Debenhams factor, more about and I’m sorry but if I wanted high street on a catwalk I’d hot foot it down to Lakeside shopping centre.

Jasper Conran  - Lea Wade
Jasper Conran by Lea Wade.

However, cialis 40mg all of this aside, much of the clothing was very sweet and (of course) I couldn’t fault its wearability. Straight up and down monochrome quickly gave way to the most citrus of hues in pleated swing skirts and dresses. The signature print – a painterly 40s inspired beach scene – was featured on the invite and on only one little sundress.

LFW Jasper Conran by Anna Hancock Young
Jasper Conran by Anna Hancock-Young.

Jasper Conran can clearly cut a great garment, so it’s just a shame he doesn’t push the boat out a bit more for London Fashion Week. Here’s hoping for more next time around.

Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory

Jasper Conran  - Lea Wade
Jasper Conran by Lea Wade.

It’s hard to know what to say about Jasper. I certainly wasn’t expecting the earth to move, there but it’s always nice to come out of a fashion show pleasantly surprised as I did after Paul Costelloe’s extremely strong opener to London Fashion Week.

LFW Jasper Conran by Anna Hancock Young
Jasper Conran by Anna Hancock-Young.

Perhaps Jasper needs to take a leaf out of Paul’s book – it seems that even with the more conservative crowd clothes your mum would be comfortable in at a wedding are no longer in. And what was with the uncomfortable cheesy grins and hideous wide-brimmed netting hats? The styling and choice of models only served to emphasise the Debenhams factor, and I’m sorry but if I wanted high street on a catwalk I’d hot foot it down to Lakeside shopping centre.

Jasper Conran  - Lea Wade
Jasper Conran by Lea Wade.

However, all of this aside, much of the clothing was very sweet and (of course) I couldn’t fault its wearability. Straight up and down monochrome quickly gave way to the most citrus of hues in pleated swing skirts and dresses. The signature print – a painterly 40s inspired beach scene – was featured on the invite and on only one little sundress.

LFW Jasper Conran by Anna Hancock Young
Jasper Conran by Anna Hancock-Young.

Jasper Conran can clearly cut a great garment, so it’s just a shame he doesn’t push the boat out a bit more for London Fashion Week. Here’s hoping for more next time around.

Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory

Jasper Conran  - Lea Wade
Jasper Conran by Lea Wade.

It’s hard to know what to say about Jasper. I certainly wasn’t expecting the earth to move, find but it’s always nice to come out of a fashion show pleasantly surprised as I did after Paul Costelloe’s extremely strong opener to London Fashion Week.

LFW Jasper Conran by Anna Hancock Young
Jasper Conran by Anna Hancock-Young.

Perhaps Jasper needs to take a leaf out of Paul’s book – it seems that clothes your mum would be comfortable in at a wedding are no longer in, web even with the more conservative crowd. And what was with the uncomfortable cheesy grins and hideous wide-brimmed netting hats? The styling and choice of models only served to emphasise the Debenhams factor, and I’m sorry but if I wanted high street on a catwalk I’d hot foot it down to Lakeside shopping centre.

Jasper Conran  - Lea Wade
Jasper Conran by Lea Wade.

However, all of this aside, much of the clothing was very sweet and (of course) I couldn’t fault its wearability. Straight up and down monochrome quickly gave way to the most citrus of hues in pleated swing skirts and dresses. The signature print – a painterly 40s inspired beach scene – was featured on the invite and on only one little sundress.

LFW Jasper Conran by Anna Hancock Young
Jasper Conran by Anna Hancock-Young.

Jasper Conran can clearly cut a great garment, so it’s just a shame he doesn’t push the boat out a bit more for London Fashion Week. Here’s hoping for more next time around.

Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Jasper Conran SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory

Falguni & Shane Peacock by Abigail Daker
Falguni & Shane Peacock by Abigail Daker.

Last year I took a fairly disparaging view of Falguni & Shane Peacock‘s inaugural show at London Fashion Week. But I got invited back, website so it can’t have been all bad. I came with an open mind: would it be better than last time?

LFW.FALGUNI AND SHANE.HAYLEY WARNHAM
Illustration by Hayley Warnham.

Well… yes and no. Once again they made high claims in their literature, this time about saving the tigers and the bees… or perhaps this was just an excuse to make loose links between trendy causes (this being the year of the tiger) and dress designs that looked remarkably similar to last seasons. We even got some WWF stickers in our goodie bag and I have to say the shock slogan “3200 and falling” makes me genuinely concerned… but what exactly am I supposed to do? Donate money? Volunteer at a sanctuary? It’s not like I go out and shoot the beasts for sport.

Falguni Shane Peacock SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Falguni Shane Peacock SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Falguni Shane Peacock SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Falguni Shane Peacock SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Falguni Shane Peacock SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
LFW-Falguni-BY-Kellie-Black
Illustration by Kellie Black.

But back to the frocks: there was a glamourous lady sporting a Falguni & Shane Peacock dress with Jimmy Choo in the front row, sildenafil apparently also a fan. I sat opposite, next to the lady with the home made hats and the revolting fingernails, which I hadn’t noticed till I sat next to her. She’s always very sweet and smiley but I really haven’t grasped exactly what she does, other than have an atrocious sense of fashion.

Falguni Shane Peacock SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Falguni Shane Peacock SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
This, my friends, is just not right.

Falguni Shane Peacock SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Falguni Shane Peacock SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Falguni Shane Peacock SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Falguni Shane Peacock SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
LFW-Falguni-BY-Kellie-Black
Illustration by Kellie Black.

The dresses were pretty much the same as last season: a mish mash of tight fitting bodycon styles and flowing diva-esque numbers, plumped up with hip sculpturing in a nod to current trends. The sunglasses styling was pretty darn atrocious. The only outfits which really showed promise were those that appeared at the end: a series of digitally printed bodies encrusted with gems and worn underneath harness like straps and studded shoulder pads. Though clearly Gaga inspired they were at least an attempt to offer something a cut above the standard red carpet affair.

Falguni Shane Peacock SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Falguni Shane Peacock SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Falguni Shane Peacock SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Falguni Shane Peacock SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Falguni Shane Peacock SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Hayley Warnham Falguni shane peacock
Illustration by Hayley Warnham.

You’ve got to hand it to Falguni & Shane Peacock though: they seem to be serious about LFW and for that I give them credit – it’s not easy to stand out in the melee of the Indian fashion scene and they are doing their damnedest to make sure they are. Now, what to do about those tigers and bees…

Falguni Shane Peacock SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory

Categories ,Abigail Daker, ,Bees, ,Falguni & Shane Peacock, ,Hayley Warnham, ,Jimmy Choo, ,Kellie Black, ,Lady Gaga, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,On/Off. Victoria House, ,Tigers, ,WWF

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Amelia’s Magazine | Graduate Fashion Week 2011 Gala Awards Show: Womenswear Knitwear and Tailoring

GFW Charlotte Waters by Claire Kearns
Charlotte Waters by Claire Kearns.

Now for the real meat of the Graduate Fashion Week Gala Awards show… the womenswear on show. Here are those designers who concentrated on tailoring, more about textures and knitwear.

Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Charlotte Waters 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Charlotte Waters 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Charlotte Waters 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Charlotte Waters 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Charlotte Waters 2011
Charlotte Waters of Salford showed a dark and moody collection with plenty of texture and knit. Intelligent Evolution was inspired by obsolete technology such as cassettes. Grunge with a modern twist – loved the over sized fibrous shoes.

Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Cindy M Warsono 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Cindy M Warsono 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Cindy M Warsono 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Cindy M Warsono 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Cindy M Warsono 2011
Cindy M Warsono by Hayley Warnham
Cindy M Warsono by Hayley Warnham.

I wasn’t massively keen on La Salle College of the Arts Singapore graduate Cindy M Warsono‘s collection of bulky cream hoodies and tight trousers.

Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Jaskiran Hare 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Jaskiran Hare 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Jaskiran Hare 2011
Jaskiran Hare of Kingston University showed a monochrome collection based on traditional tailoring turned inside out and back to front.

Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Jungo Kuroiwa 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Jungo Kuroiwa 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Jungo Kuroiwa 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Jungo Kuroiwa 2011
Jungo Kuroiwa of UCA Epsom favoured a very black approach as well: layered tailoring and lace all mixed up together to create interest.

GFW-Rory-Longdon_by_AlisonDay
Rory Longdon by Alison Day.

Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Rory Longdon 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Rory Longdon 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Rory Longdon 2011
Rory Longdon went for subdued black and silver in his knitwear collection – but even a colour lover like me could admire these beautifully constructed garments – up close they were just amazing. Not for nothing did he win the overall Gala Award. He goes on to study an MA in Fashion Womenswear at the RCA this September.

Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Lyudmila Lane 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Lyudmila Lane 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Lyudmila Lane 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Lyudmila Lane 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Lyudmila Lane 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Lyudmila Lane 2011
Lyudmila Lane of UCA Rochester stuck to lighter greys and orange in pleated shapes for Endless Sequence, medications inspired by the sculptures of Peter Jansen. The garments didn’t always work – I was much more interested in her intriguing shoes.

Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Rachel Cogley 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Rachel Cogley 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Rachel Cogley 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Rachel Cogley 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Rachel Cogley 2011
Rachel Cogley from University of Birmingham must surely have been inspired by Charlie Le Mindu – her fun collection borrowed heavily from his avante garde design aesthetic. Nonetheless I enjoyed her crazy big shouldered plaited hair coats and the poodle bag which matched both wig and coat.

naomi-law-gfw-gala-ume-sacraine
naomi-law-gfw-gala-ume-sacraine
Ume Sacraine by Naomi Law.

Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Ume Sacraine 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Ume Sacraine 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Ume Sacraine 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Ume Sacraine 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Ume Sacraine 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Ume Sacraine 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Ume Sacraine 2011
It was back to black for Ume Sacraine of De Montford University… who started with a panelled mini dress before moving on to a whole range of intriguing fringed, embossed and gnarled textures in a sombre palette.

Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Won Jee Chung 2011Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Won Jee Chung 2011
Finally, Won Jee Chung showed more monochrome, this time intarsia knit and a strangely unflattering bulky hooded top with sheer palazzo pants.

Categories ,Alison Day, ,black, ,Charlie le Mindu, ,Charlotte Waters, ,Cindy M Warsono, ,Claire Kearns, ,De Montford University, ,Endless Sequence, ,GFW, ,Graduate Fashion Week, ,Grey, ,Hayley Warnham, ,Intelligent Evolution, ,Jaskiran Hare, ,Jungo Kuroiwa, ,Kingston University, ,knitwear, ,La Salle College of the Arts, ,Lyudmila Lane, ,monochrome, ,Naomi Law, ,Peter Jansen, ,Rachel Cogley, ,Rory Longdon, ,Singapore, ,tailoring, ,Textures, ,UCA Epsom, ,UCA Rochester, ,Ume Sacraine, ,University of Birmingham, ,Womenswear, ,Won Jee Chung

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Amelia’s Magazine | Betty Jackson A/W 09

The day started off with London transport, buy visit this site as usual, doctor ruining my life. The district line was delayed/suspended/just took bloody ages, meaning that I missed the first show I intended on seeing. This was due to over-crowding at South Kensington, as Fashion Week started during half term week, cue 6 million children/parents/tourists trying to get to the Natural History Museum, along with the fashionistas….not a good mix.

By the time I got to the BFC tent, the fashion pack were filing in for the Esthetica launch. Esthetica is the only show of its kind in the world, dedicated to celebrating ethical designers. Noir kicked things off to the not-so-subtle sounds of Hole’s Celebrity Skin, with a polished but edgy collection of, perhaps obviously, black clothes. There was then a drastic music change, a choir singing Creep by Radiohead, a strangely haunting rendition to accompany the more delicate shape of the second half of the collection. With the much quieter musical accompaniment, the unfamiliar sound of hundreds of camera shutters going off can be heard and fittingly adds to the ethereal quality.

Best discovery of the day? The Fashion Bus! When I was told about it, it conjured up images of a magical, playdays-style bus of couture. In reality it’s a coach with London Fashion Week written down the side but still, it served its purpose of getting us from the main South Kensington location to the Hippodrome in Leicester Square, without having to cross the path of my arch-enemy, London transport.

The reason we trekked across town was for Ashish. And it was completely worth it, as what unfolded was far more than just a fashion show. There was live music provided by VV Brown (wearing a dress from the collection), acrobats, a big circus setting and clowns….well, not actual clowns but the pom-poms on some of the looks combined with the hyper colour clash styling surely owed a debt to Coco somewhere along the line.

Ashish-acrobat.jpg

Ashish-Vivi-Brown.jpg

And here are some snaps of what we’ll all be wearing come Autumn:

Ashish-AW-09-3.jpg

Ashish-AW-09-2.jpg

Ashish-AW-09-4.jpg

Ashish-AW-09-5.jpg

Perhaps not that last one so much…
Particular note should be taken of the amazing wedged, animal print shoe boots that all the models – and VV Brown were sporting:

Ashish-AW-09-shoes.jpg

This show was brilliant escapism, with some very wearable individual pieces once you separate them out from the styling. It felt like an afternoon at the circus, rather than just a fashion show, and in such a competitive week, Ashish has ensured that his show will be one everyone remembers this season.
It’s funny seeing the different crowds the different shows draw. The morning started off at the Margaret Howell studio, sick where the British establishment of fashion journalists turned out to see her A/W 09 collection. It was very, stomach well Margaret Howell, order country cosy, duffel coats, blues/greys, some cute over the knees socks and silks mixed with wools. A well put together, safe collection.

margaret-howell-2.jpg

margaret-howell1.jpg

I was, excitingly, sitting opposite Alexandra Shulman though, which did take up most of my attention. British Vogue has been wiping the floor with American Vogue in recent times, and it was thrilling to be in such close proximity to her, lets face it, what fashion journalist doesn’t secretly want to be editor of Vogue?

Now onto the different crowd part. Across town, in a swanky church in Marylebone, a full scale production was taking place in aid of the Qasimi A/W 09 show. Not so much journalism elite, more, well Simon Le Bon. But his presence was so to be explained as the show began…

Melinda Neunie was also there and here’s her review of the show:

I must say the Qasimi team managed to pull in quite an impressive crowd. Their pre-show champagne reception outside the beautiful St Mary’s Church was ablaze with bold prints and bright colours, with attendees clearly taking advantage of the nicer weather.

qasimi-4.jpg

The catwalk show was equally remarkable. Set against an exotic woodland backdrop, Qasimi propelled us into a world of fantasy, romance and passion with their A/W 09 collection. The all black luxury range exuded wealth, elegance and sophistication through sumptuous cashmere and Italian silks complete with gleaming outsized diamond accessories.

qasimi-3.jpg

An opera sound track opened the show alongside a fantastically poised Erin O’Connor clad in a sculptured corset gown and extravagant feathered headdress. The model was closely followed by Lily Cole, Yasmin Le Bon and Jade Parfitt.

Draping gowns, corset tops and intricate stitching dominated the show, which was closed by the spectacular Carmen Dell’Orifice who couldn’t help but give us a cheeky bum shake on her way out.”

qasimi-1.jpg

qasimi-2.jpg

We didn’t recognise final model Carmen Dell’Orifice but everyone else did as she got whoops and cheers as she sashayed down the catwalk. The show was not at all what I was expecting, but it was epic! Seeing those famed models in the flesh, the dramatic music and, as Music Editor Prudence put it, the general Zoolander quality of it made it entertaining in the extreme.

We were penned into the lobby at the Vauxhall Fashion Scout like (well-dressed) sheep for an hour, viagra dosage but it was worth it to experience Horace’s A/W ’09 collection. The label’s founders, web Adam Entwisle and Emma Hales, website like this have made a welcome return to their androgynous roots.

Classic Horace is synonymous with distressed hand washed leather and oversized separates, and there was plenty of that to be seen. Baggy trousers contrasted with beautifully cut jackets, all accessorised with leather totes and large knitted scarves.

horace-1.jpg

horace-2.jpg

horace-3.jpg

Entwisle and Hales continue to play with the idea of gender in their designs. Pale-faced men in tunic dresses followed women in combat boots down the catwalk to pulsing rock beats. The collection is said to embody the spirit of 18th century monks, and the modesty of a monk’s attire was reflected in the voluminous hoods and clean monochromatic palette.

Such an abundance of black layers and boots could have become repetitive, but thankfully vibrant plaid prints provided bursts of colour, evocative of London’s punk heritage. It’s small wonder Horace has built up such a cult following.

Lebanese born designer Hass Idriss showed his first collection at London Fashion Week yesterday to a very odd crowd at Belgravia’s Il Bottaccio. I say odd because the majority of the black-clad crowd sported face-lifts, symptoms and I was amongst a very small percentage of the audience who weren’t wearing any make-up (yep, the boys did too – some even applying YSL lip gloss as a pre-show fixer).

They were, however, resplendent and I’d like to thank the fabulous woman who sat three seats down from me on the front line wearing the largest, roundest hat possible. Differing from the usual up and down runway, Idriss presented his collection in an L-shaped room, with myself and the mad hatter on the second, final arm of the catwalk. I am nursing a bad case of RSI in my neck this morning as I type: straining around that hat was quite a feat.

Visual obstacles aside, Idriss’ collection was a brave and opulent one. Credit crunch? What credit crunch?

Inspiration for this first collection had been drawn from Hans Christian Andersen’s Little Mermaid. The show kicked off with a booming soundtrack and two airbrushed-gold Adonises slowly glided along the runway, followed by the first model who hopped in a skin-tight fish tail dress, aided by the Adonises and a pair of gold embelished crutches (mermaid overkill, I’d say – and a little bit silly. I mean, honestly!)

idriss-3.jpg

Gradually the collection grew in maturity whilst retaining the theme of the sea – luxurious weightless fabrics such as organza and tulle were enriched with sea water pearls and Swarovski crystals, reminiscent of early John Galliano for Dior Couture.

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The palette was mixed, ranging from organic pastel colours, golds and creams, through to shocking reds with black to contrast. A brave craftsman, Idriss pushed his capabilities to their limits across a range of techniques, heavily reliant on embroidery to the highest standard. Cuts were quite disparate – some gowns were a-line or floated gently to the floor whilst others were sculpted around the body with severe hems. The black satin and velvet mini dress with a charcoal chapel train, titled ‘The Mermaid’, was a particular highlight.

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Throughout, most of the ensembles were hits, especially with the whooping audience. A couple of misses, though – and the award for unwearability goes to this little number – a plastic transparent poncho with beaded corals (and blood, sweat and tears according to the press handout). Hans Christian Andersen will be turning in his grave. Bonkers. Overall, a daring and immodest first outing for Hass Idriss. Keep a look out in the future – you saw him here first.
At 9.15 on a Sunday morning, stomach it seemed only the most diligent (and probably least hungover) of the fashion clan that made an appearance at the Betty Jackson show. It was worth the early rise, case to say the least.
We were bombarded with a visual palette of textures, soft colours and hemlines; resembling a painting whose medium changed by the paint stroke, from smooth watercolours to thick, rougher oils to scratchy pencils. Betty Jackson kept her collection airy, light and colourful- perhaps in an effort to float past or ward off next winter’s approaching cold and heavy credit crunch scenario.

Main colour themes drifted from cupcake and candy pastels to darker, richer shades;conjuring up autumnal images- like those in Monet’s more wintry landscapes. Fur, frills and subdued shades were combined in adorable, snappy pencil skirt and blouse/knitwear combos, very Audrey Hepburn in Breakfast at Tiffany’s.

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Jewellery was designed exclusively for Betty Jackson by Alexis Bittar, this included hand carved, hand painted lucite earrings and necklaces, whose sheer extravagance reminded us of Edie Sedgwick’s outrageous choice in accessories.

Purple tights and red belts are two of the most notable components of the collection, while some of the models wore versatile backpacks- probably Jackson’s effort to incorporate utility in what is becoming a very non-frivolous time.
Statement coats and fur boleros were thrown in for the warmth factor. Best model of the show was hands down, Jourdan Dunn.

Betty Jackson believes that “every new collection presents a new challenge, but most people feel more confident and sexy if they are comfortable” and we can see a huge representation of this in her latest designs, the bright and often outrageous colour schemes are juxtaposed in a variety of simple styles- which maintains the conservative nature of her clothes. These are garments that not only appear comfortable, but also versatile- they are not only adaptable to real, working life but also pieces you could and will wear for seasons to come.

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Amelia’s Magazine | Robin Ince’s School for Gifted Children May Ball – Module One: A Review

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Illustration of Robin Ince by Jenny Robins.

It was only thanks to Professor Brian Cox on twitter that I discovered Robin Ince’s School for Gifted Children May Ball – Module One. Not intended for children “this event will contain some swearing” and most definitely not featuring any dancing, diagnosis Robin Ince‘s quirkily named nights feature a mix of comedy alongside lectures from eminent and *cute* scientists. How on earth would this work? Well, seek the championing of rational scientific research was the binding factor of all the participants in the May Ball, be they comedian or scientist. Throw in some crowd participatory music and we did indeed have ourselves a ball.

Robin acts as compere of these evenings, and on Friday night he apologised for his frazzled persona, the result of election night lack of sleep and a preoccupation with the results, which was to become a theme of the evening. Despite incipient madness he was very funny indeed, whether jealous of his toddler son, who can happily eat crisps whilst sitting on the potty and watching television (he cannot), or reading an excerpt from a letter sent by Richard Hawkins following a debate over whether aliens are responsible life on earth.

The first act, Martin White, gave himself the hugely tough job of proving that any tune will become catchy if you repeat it over and over again. Or not, as the case may be. Through audience participation we arrived at a title, Napalm Death, for a tuneful little ditty consisting of some awkward minor chords and daft lyrics. All in ten minutes. It was an ambitious but entertaining way to start the evening, and he had the audience in the palm of his hand as we sang heartily through the finished piece.

Next up Susan Vale wandered on with a tatty plastic bag. “You’ve got no idea who I am have you? But you think I might be Susan Boyle, right?” Unfortunately for her, she had a point. “Normally I just do gags about quantum physics and end with a joke about nobs, but I can’t because Brian is here tonight,” she told us, before instead talking us through her musical obsession with The Fall via a wobbling stack of CDs on a stool. I wasn’t the only person for whom it occurred that this was a very male thing to do – when Robin reappeared he commented on her possible autistism. I was in slightly uncomfortable stitches the whole way through, especially when she wobbled her belly fat at the men in the audience. “See, I was feeling self conscious about it, but now I feel empowered.”

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Gurning aristo by Lou the Illustrator.

Andrew Collins bounced on stage to a huge projection of a gurning aristocratic holding aloft a dead squirrel by it’s tail. Apparently the Red Squirrel Protection Partnership is hell bent on wiping out the grey squirrel by any means necessary, and Andrew likened this to racism against immigrants. Funnily enough these commandos are still less keen on a deadly hybrid of the grey squirrel – the even more virile black squirrel. The irony is that the upper classes were the ones who introduced the greys into Britain – as pets – in the first place.

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“Bally Immigrants” by Gareth Hopkins.

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Illustration by Marta Alvim.

NB: I’m joking, clearly there are no deadly gun-toting squirrels in the UK.

However, the main theme of Andrew’s lecture was birds, and more specifically the things he would like to do with them; the first being to get a robin to feed from his hand, the second to be kissed, softly on the cheek, by a duck, and the third to walk down the street as if in a relationship with a pigeon.

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Illustration by Jonah Fazel.

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Andrew with pigeon girlfriend. Illustration by Sandra Diekmann.

Disclaimer: whilst I envisaged the pigeon as Andrew’s girlfriend, he would like to make it very clear that it is merely a friend. “I never considered it might be a girl.”

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Illustration by Sandra Diekmann.

All dark floppy hair and passionate enthusiasm, Brian Cox entered stage left looking not a day over 25, just as he does on the telly. He opened his lecture with a few scary looking graphs demonstrating how little cash is currently allocated for scientific research compared to the amount used to bailout the banks, and showing that expenditure in the UK is well below the average spend of the developing world.

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Illustration by Helen Harrop.

A dedicated Liberal, Brian Cox is clearly worried about further cuts under a Tory government. Few celebrities are happy to state their political allegiances in public, and I really respect that Brian is, as his presence on television during election night made clear. He then bust out a map showing global temperature rises “for any of you idiots out there who still don’t believe in climate change”. He never really mentioned climate change in the Wonders of the Solar System, so I could’ve hugged him for this: it’s just a shame he was preaching to an audience of the already converted. He quoted Carl Sagan, who described the earth as an incredibly fragile and special “pale blue dot” and showed a series of spectacular slides to back this up, including one showing the Milky Way pulsing in a semi circle like an archway above the mountains in Chile.

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Illustration by Farzeen Jabbar.

We then went on a whistle stop tour of the birth of the universe which descended into some equations that Brian swore were simple (maybe for the scientists amongst us… of which I am sure there were many in the geeky audience.) Despite losing the point on occasion it left me gasping in awe (at the wonder of the universe, not Brian, I know what you’re thinking.)

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Brian Cox by Claire Pinegar.

A break – loo situation in the Bloomsbury Theatre: bad, had to rush out during second half for wee due to extreme queues – was followed by a passionate lecture from Adam Rutherford, science writer at The Guardian and Nature magazine. Having read the Metro earlier in the day (I love the way that the Metro always has a simplified science page. You never got that in London Lite did you?) I was well up on the news that scientists have just discovered that most humans are in fact part Neanderthal – rather than pure bred Homo sapiens. We also learnt that Neanderthals were red haired… there’s no gingers in my family but I’ve always thought my dad has a very pronounced beetle brow.

Comedian Marcus Brigstocke took up the baton, likening our current political situation to our relations with the Neanderthals, where the Tories are likely to mate with the Lib-Dems, shag ‘em senseless and then eat them afterwards. (we were probably cannibals back in the day) An unmitigated Green, he spoke ecstatically of the news that Green Party leader Caroline Lucas has gained a seat in office.

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Illustration of Marcus Brigstocke by Jenny Robins.

Gavin Osborn was another funny musician, who performed a specially created ode to Brian Cox describing how his wife was suddenly nowhere to be seen on Sunday nights. Simon Singh has famously challenged the efficacy of the homeopathy industry – and has just won a libel case against the British Chiropractic Association. He whizzed through a series of photos from the case highlighting the presence of Dr. Evan Harris in each shot, before deferring to Ben Goldacre, a surprise appearance, who came on stage to explain just how much Dr. Harris has done for the cause of science and free speech. On May 6th he lost his Lib-Dem seat in Oxford to an evangelical Christian, helped into office by a relentless smear campaign. Sadness at this loss was mentioned throughout the evening and Ben made everyone stand for an ovation, whereupon it soon became obvious that Evan himself was seated in the audience.

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Illustration by Hayley Warnham.

Robin had saved special surprise guest Australian comedian Tim Minchin for last. “I’ve just been cleared of a speeding fine in Pontypridd. True,” he told us as he grabbed the top off the piano and barefoot, bespectacled, took his seat. “I don’t need eyeliner when I wear glasses.” Not being an aficionado I didn’t know what he was talking about but a swift visit to his website confirms that Tim normally sports thick emo-esque makeup, but I much preferred him without.

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“Minchin Strikes” by Lazarou Monkey Terror.

We were treated to the first public performance beyond the rarefied confines of YouTube of the “Pope Song“, which pillories the Catholic penchant for small boys with copious usage of the word ‘motherfucker’. A fantastic musician with immaculate comic timing, I would really like to see him again.

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I’m all for making science more accessible and using comedy is a brilliant example of how to do this: over the course of three hours I laughed solidly whilst also learning a load of incredibly geeky and interesting stuff. I vow to see more comedy of this kind in the future. Robin Ince, I salute you for bringing this vision into reality.

You can read excellent reviews by Lucy Peel here and Jo Sue Gee here.
Robin Ince’s next evening of fun takes place on Thurs 24th June. Sadly I’ll be missing out on this one because I’ll be at Glastonbury with Climate Camp.

Categories ,Adam Rutherford, ,aliens, ,Andrew Collins, ,Ben Goldacre, ,Bloomsbury Theatre, ,Brian Cox, ,Carl Sagan, ,Caroline Lucas, ,chile, ,Claire Pinegar, ,Dr. Evan Harris, ,emo, ,Farzeen Jabbar, ,Gareth Hopkins, ,Gavin Osborn, ,Green Party, ,Hayley Warnham, ,Helen Harrop, ,Homeothapy, ,Homo sapiens, ,Jenny Robins, ,Lazarou Monkey Terror, ,Lib Dem, ,Libel, ,Lou the Illustrator, ,Marcus Brigstocke, ,Marta Alvim, ,Martin White, ,Metro, ,Nature Magazine, ,Neanderthal, ,Oxford, ,piano, ,Pigeons, ,Pope Song, ,Professor Brian Cox, ,Richard Dawkins, ,Robin Ince, ,Sandra Diekmann, ,Simon Singh, ,Squirrels, ,Susan Vale, ,The Guardian, ,Tim Minchin, ,Tory

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Amelia’s Magazine | Sage Francis: New and Improved with Even Less to Lose

Illustrations by Hayley Warnham

Packed into the small room that is Audio in Brighton, the atmosphere is rather muted. This is not a big glamorous event typified by the fact that the main attraction was stood behind a table selling his t-shirts five minutes before appearing on the slightly raised piece of flooring that makes up the stage. The build up is so low key in fact that it takes me a dozen or so seconds before I even notice the show has started. However this all fades away once the first spray of verbal gunfire shoots from Sage Francis’ lips.

The underground poet come rapper may not be performing in the same setting as 50 Cent or Eminem, but that’s certainly not for lack of talent. Sadly it is more likely because his lyrics are devoid of cheap thrills and instead built out of a delicacy of language and emotion more akin to Bob Dylan than any of the stadium filling rappers out there. The declaration that we are going to be treated to a wide range of songs from Sage Francis’ extensive back catalogue rather than just focusing on his latest album is greeted by a loud cheer from the anticipation-filled audience.

The smallness of the setting only adds to the intimacy and uniqueness of the show as a few hundred excited fans are treated to a night that is in turn passionate, fun and exhilarating all wrapped up in a playful spontaneity. This is typified by Sage Francis several times having to skip back and pause the CD player (that’s right, a CD player) that serves as his backing band because the music for the next song has kicked in before he finished whatever point he was making. This bare bones style would break most artists making it feel like glorified karaoke but Sage makes what could be a hindrance part of the show.

It’s clear that the audience is filled with people who truly love this man’s music as they joyously shout out the words to songs such as ‘Crack Pipes’ and ‘Escape Artist’. The atmosphere builds and builds till the music stops and Sage unleashes the emotionally raw ‘Dr Feel Nathan’, a poetic piece that weaves from spoken word to fast paced rap effortlessly and takes the whole room with it.

In juxtaposition to these moments of intensity, Francis isn’t afraid to inject some humour, like when one of the crowd’s favourites, ‘Broken Wings’, segues into Mr Mister’s cheesy hit ‘Take These Broken Wings’ with Sage miming the words in an over top performance that leaves friends in the audience smiling at each other. It is this balancing act that keeps the show so fascinating, as one man with a CD player manages to enrapture a room full of people whilst alternating between giving his views on how his and the Pope’s visit differ and performing one of his more heated songs to his shoe as though it were a very special lady.

All this is ignoring the biggest draw of seeing the man in the flesh, and that is his always impassioned and often spectacular vocal style that ranges from a slower more delicate delivery all the way to a rapid onslaught of intricate word play that is a marvel to hear live and never ceases to get the blood rushing in an audience giving just as good as they get.

It’s a testament to his back catalogue that even after an hour and half of nonstop songs including a jazzed out version of ‘Jah Didn’t Kill Johnny’ Francis’ tribute to Johnny Cash and the always captivating ‘Makeshift Patriot’ there is still so many songs that go unplayed that I would have loved to hear; top of the list being the frenetic ‘Different’.
The concert ends in a fitting way with Sage getting his pals B. Dolan and Scroobius Pip up on stage to close out the night. The trio are clearly having just as much fun as the audience with Sage and B. Dolan jokily pushing each other whilst alternating vocal duties and Pip crowd surfing his way back to the merchandise stand.
A great night for anyone who loves music with a soul.

Categories ,b dolan, ,Hayley Warnham, ,Sage Francis, ,Scroobius Pip

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