Amelia’s Magazine | Raw Talent University of the Arts Graduate Fashion Show: Review

Jeyanthy Balakrisnen by Ruth Joyce
Jeyanthy Balakrisnen by Ruth Joyce.

Raw Talent kicked off their graduate design exhibition at the Hoxton Gallery with a catwalk show featuring hand selected designers from the University of the Arts. Despite a shaky start and numerous amateurish glitches (poor lighting, dodgy models & questionable styling, stop and start music, no designated photographer’s pit) I was glad I stayed until the end, for there were a few really promising collections on show.

Raw Talent fashion show 2013-cindy zhang
Cindy Zhang of the London College of Fashion creates delicate leather accessories.

Raw Talent fashion show 2013-seung youn lee
Raw Talent show Seung Youn Lee by Rebecca Elliston
Seung Youn Lee by Rebecca Elliston.

From Central Saint Martin, Seung Youn Lee‘s Dr. Gentle and Mister featured pleated paper skirts and ruffs inspired by historical costumes.

Raw Talent fashion show 2013-dian luo
Raw Talent fashion show 2013-dian luo
Dian Luo of Central Saint Martin‘s jewellery course showcased beautiful light up LED necklaces, inspired by the shape of cactuses.

Raw Talent fashion show 2013-Lorna Doyle
Lorna Doyle was inspired by hoarding to create dishevelled pleated dresses covered with abstract prints.

Raw Talent fashion show 2013-Jeyanthy Balakrisnen
Raw Talent fashion show 2013-Jeyanthy Balakrisnen
Raw Talent fashion show 2013-Jeyanthy Balakrisnen
Raw Talent fashion show 2013-Jeyanthy Balakrisnen
Raw Talent fashion show 2013-Jeyanthy Balakrisnen
My favourite collection of the evening was a colourful ruffled affair from Jeyanthy Balakrisnen of the London College of FashionLost and Found was inspired from a plethora of sources, including the streets of India and the Amish communities of America.

Raw Talent fashion show 2013-Lena Strelets
Raw Talent fashion show 2013-Lena Strelets
Raw Talent fashion show 2013-Lena Strelets
Raw Talent fashion show 2013-Lena Strelets
Lastly, Lena Strelets of London College of Fashion showed a collection inspired by Russian icons. She’s previously showed in Russia and clearly has some cash behind her for this was full of beautiful embroidered details and delicate stitching. Lena took a turn on the catwalk at the end, wearing extremely high sparkly heels that vied for attention with the extravagant wigs worn by her models.

Read my review of the rest of the Raw Talent exhibition here.

Categories ,2013, ,Central Saint Martin, ,Cindy Zhang, ,Dian Luo, ,Dr. Gentle and Mister, ,fashion, ,Hoxton Gallery, ,Jeyanthy Balakrisnen, ,Lena Strelets, ,London College of Fashion, ,Lorna Doyle, ,Lost and Found, ,Raw Talent, ,Rebecca Elliston, ,review, ,Ruth Joyce, ,Seung Youn Lee, ,University of the Arts

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Amelia’s Magazine | London College of Fashion MA Fashion Show 2014, Menswear: London Fashion Week Catwalk Review

Wen Tan A/W 2014 by Claire Kearns

Wen Tan A/W 2014 by Claire Kearns.

Against the backdrop of a kaleidoscopic digital projection, the London College of Fashion MA designers sent their designs down the catwalk. As ever there was a fantastic array of talent on show. Here’s a run down of the menswear.

Daniel Yuste AW 2014

Daniel Yuste AW 2014

Spanish designer Daniel Yuste focused on a futuristic sportive silhouette, using neoprene to shape beetle inspired jackets in bold cobalt blue, navy and monochrome stripes.

Wen Tan AW 2014

Wen Tan AW 2014

Wen Tan AW 2014

Wen Tan AW 2014-white suit

Wen Tan used delicate drawings made from the bones of extinct animals as the basis for his drop shouldered coats in muted pastel colours, accessorised with large top hats and bowlers chopped in two.

Artistides Vanis by Rebecca May Illustration

Artistides Vanis by Rebecca May Illustration.

Aristides Vanis AW 2014-LCF MA

Aristides Vanis AW 2014-LCF MA donkey

Aristides Vanis AW 2014

Aristides Vanis AW 2014

Greek designer Aristides Vanis produced the most arresting collection, featuring an outsize stuffed donkey as accessory and plenty of 3D embellishments, all inspired by his childhood and in particular the food and animals that were such a big part of his growing up. His background in costume is evident in these fun garments.

Xiaomeng Yang by Ruth Joyce

Xiaomeng Yang by Ruth Joyce.

Xiaomeng Yang AW 2014

Xiaomeng Yang AW 2014

Xiaomeng Yang AW 2014

Xiaomeng Yang AW 2014

Xiaomeng Yang dressed his men in brightly coloured co-ordinated suits in shades of bright blue, canary yellow, fuchsia pink, bright green, searing red and blazing orange, with the corresponding shades splattered across the models’ faces. Despite the energetic choice of colour these were beautiful and wearable garments, featuring intricate draping inspired by folds of skin.

All photography by Amelia Gregory. Don’t forget to check out my coverage of the womenswear graduates here.

Categories ,2014, ,Aristides Vanis, ,Claire Kearns, ,Daniel Yuste, ,London College of Fashion, ,ma, ,menswear, ,Rebecca May Illustration, ,review, ,Ruth Joyce, ,Waldorf Hotel, ,Wen Tan, ,Xiaomeng Yang

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Amelia’s Magazine | Graduate Fashion Week 2012 Gala Awards Ceremony: Part One


Matthew Williamson by Ruth Joyce

Twelve hundred students descend on Earls Court Two for Graduate Fashion Week every year. About a quarter of them get the opportunity to showcase their collections during one of the 16 fashion shows that are held over four days. In a dramatic climax – the Gala Awards show – 10 students are selected to present their work for a second time in the hope of receiving the coveted Gold Award.


All photography by Matt Bramford

So, like the fashion industry itself, chances of making it are pretty slim. 10 incredible collections graced the catwalk in the finale and I honestly couldn’t pick a winner – celebrity judges like Matthew Williamson and Julien Macdonald commented on the incredible standard exhibited of not only those who had been selected as a Gold Award nominee, but every college.


Julien Macdonald by Claire Kearns

Here’s a photographic whistle-stop tour of the awards ceremony:

INTERNATIONAL AWARD


Yvonne Kwok – Amsterdam Fashion Institute


Zhu Liyuanzi – Istituto Marangoni Milan


WINNER: Karen Jessen – ESMOD Berlin, presented by Julien Macdonald, Sara Maino from Vogue Italia & Caroline Burstein from Browns.

STUART PETERS KNITWEAR AWARD


Emma Walsh – Nottingham Trent University


Jousianne ProppManchester Metropolitan University


Caitlin Charles Jones – Kingston University


Judges Ruth Chapman from Matches, Erica Peters from Stuart Peters and knitwear designer Mark Fast couldn’t decide, so Caitlin and Jousianne both scooped the award!

ZANDRA RHODES TEXTILES AWARD


Daisy Lowe by Ruth Joyce


Amelia Smith – Northumbria University


Dae-Byn Lee – Nottingham Trent University


Roz Lamkin – Manchester Metropolitan University


WINNER: Xiaoping HuangUCLAN, presented by Daisy Lowe and Mary Katrantzou

BARCLAYS NEW BUSINESS AWARD


Holly Reid – UCLAN, presented by Tabitha Somerset-Webb (Project D) and Michelle Mone OBE

FASHION INNOVATION AWARD


Ami Collins – UCLAN, presented by Lorraine Candy of ELLE magazine and designer David Koma

MEDIA & DESIGN AWARD


Kerrie Donelly – UCA Epsom, presented by Fashion Editor-at-Large Melanie Rickey and ID magazine‘s Jefferson Hack (swoon)

STAND DESIGN AWARD


Edinburgh College of Art, presented by designer Fred Butler and Harvey NicholsYuri Nakamura

GEORGE BEST OF BRITISH AWARD


Susanna Yi – University of East London, presented by TV presenter Caroline Flack and ASDA fashion director Fiona Lambert

GEORGE CHILDRENSWEAR AWARD


Harriet Simons – Colchester, presented by singer Louise Redknapp and Fiona Lambert

MULBERRY ACCESSORIES AWARD


Laura Smallwood – Kingston University, presented by Mulberry‘s Tori Campbell

ETHICAL AWARD


Sarah Murphy, Northumbria – presented by stylist Jocelyn Whipple and film producer/eco hero Livia Firth

LIFETIME ACHIEVEMENT AWARD


Legendary catwalk photographer Chris Moore, presented by designer Jeff Banks

Part Two, featuring the major players and the menswear, womenswear and Gold Award winners, coming soon…!

Categories ,accessories, ,Amelia Smith, ,Ami Collins, ,Amsterdam Fashion Institute, ,ASDA, ,Awards, ,Caitlin Charles Jones, ,Caroline Flack, ,Caryn Franklin, ,Catwalking.com, ,Ceremony, ,Childrenswear, ,Chris Moore, ,Claire Kearns, ,Colchester, ,Dae-Byn Lee, ,daisy lowe, ,David Koma, ,Earls Court Two, ,Eco Age, ,Elle, ,Emma Walsh, ,Erica Peters, ,ESMOD Berlin, ,Essex, ,fashion, ,Fiona Lambert, ,Fred Butler, ,Gala, ,George, ,Gold Award, ,Graduate Fashion Week, ,Harvey Nichols, ,Holly Reid, ,ID Magazine, ,international, ,Istituto Marangoni Milan, ,Jeff Banks, ,Jefferson Hack, ,Jousianne Propp, ,Julien McDonald, ,Karen Jesson, ,Kerrie Donnelly, ,Kingston University London, ,knitwear, ,Laura Smallwood, ,Lifetime Achievement, ,Livia Firth, ,Lorraine Candy, ,Louise Redknapp, ,Manchester Metropolitan University, ,Mark Fast, ,Mary Katrantzou, ,matches, ,Matt Bramford, ,Matthew Williamson, ,Melanie Rickey, ,menswear, ,Michelle Mone OBE, ,Mulberry, ,New Business, ,Northumbria University, ,Nottingham Trent University, ,Project D, ,Roz Lamkin, ,Ruth Chapman, ,Ruth Joyce, ,show, ,Stuart Peters, ,Susanna Yi, ,Tabitha Somerset-Webb, ,Tori Campbell, ,UCA Epsom, ,UCLan, ,UEL, ,Womenswear, ,Xiaoping Huang, ,Yuri Nakamura, ,Yvonne Kwok, ,Zhu Liyuanzi

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Amelia’s Magazine | London 2012 Paralympics Games Illustrated

Ellie Simmonds by Daniel Castrogiovanni
Ellie Simmonds by Daniel Castrogiovanni.

Much has been written of the Paralympics: with the press dwelling on life stories of ‘inspiring’ athletes and the athletes in turn pleading with fans to concentrate on their physical achievements in sport. Between my family and friends we simply expressed our utmost admiration: for, like Olympic athletes the Paralympics athletes, are in awesome physical condition. They can boast a level of fitness that most of us can only dream of (or work extremely extremely hard for) and their sporting feats outstripped what the ordinary person is capable of, despite any physical or mental shortcomings.

David Weir by Ruth Joyce
David Weir by Ruth Joyce.

Like many others I’ve never paid much attention to the Paralympics before, but then again I’ve never watched the Olympics either. I’m glad that despite sponsorship failings (protestors attacked the hypocrisy of Atos, a major sponsor who is also behind cuts in disability benefits) this Paralympics has raised the profile of what people with disabilities are capable of. Let’s just hope there’s a trickle down effect: firstly to those who don’t have such easy access to professional sports training (some countries won many events in the Olympics but were unable to afford equipment and training for Paralympics athletes) and secondly in the public perception of all people with disabilities, including those who are crap at sport (like me, I am sure there are many) but brilliant at other stuff that may go unrecognised or supported. We’re all human after all, and every individual, whether disabled or able-bodied, has something to offer. Here’s to a celebration of diversity within loving community, long may the effects be felt.

Paralympian by Tara Anne Bush
Paralympian by Tara Anne Bush.

Pistorius Victorious by claire jones art
Pistorius Victorious by Claire Jones Art.

Pallers by Caroline Coates
Pallers by Caroline Coates.

Oscar Pistorius by Daniel Castrogiovanni
Oscar Pistorius by Daniel Castrogiovanni.

You can see what illustrators made of the Olympics here, here and here.

Categories ,Atos, ,Caroline Coates, ,Claire Jones Art, ,Daniel Castrogiovanni, ,David Weir, ,Ellie Simmonds, ,Olympics, ,Oscar Pistorius, ,Pallers, ,Paralympics, ,Ruth Joyce, ,Tara Anne Bush

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Amelia’s Magazine | London 2012 Paralympics Games Illustrated

Ellie Simmonds by Daniel Castrogiovanni
Ellie Simmonds by Daniel Castrogiovanni.

Much has been written of the Paralympics: with the press dwelling on life stories of ‘inspiring’ athletes and the athletes in turn pleading with fans to concentrate on their physical achievements in sport. Between my family and friends we simply expressed our utmost admiration: for, like Olympic athletes the Paralympics athletes, are in awesome physical condition. They can boast a level of fitness that most of us can only dream of (or work extremely extremely hard for) and their sporting feats outstripped what the ordinary person is capable of, despite any physical or mental shortcomings.

David Weir by Ruth Joyce
David Weir by Ruth Joyce.

Like many others I’ve never paid much attention to the Paralympics before, but then again I’ve never watched the Olympics either. I’m glad that despite sponsorship failings (protestors attacked the hypocrisy of Atos, a major sponsor who is also behind cuts in disability benefits) this Paralympics has raised the profile of what people with disabilities are capable of. Let’s just hope there’s a trickle down effect: firstly to those who don’t have such easy access to professional sports training (some countries won many events in the Olympics but were unable to afford equipment and training for Paralympics athletes) and secondly in the public perception of all people with disabilities, including those who are crap at sport (like me, I am sure there are many) but brilliant at other stuff that may go unrecognised or supported. We’re all human after all, and every individual, whether disabled or able-bodied, has something to offer. Here’s to a celebration of diversity within loving community, long may the effects be felt.

Paralympian by Tara Anne Bush
Paralympian by Tara Anne Bush.

Pistorius Victorious by claire jones art
Pistorius Victorious by Claire Jones Art.

Pallers by Caroline Coates
Pallers by Caroline Coates.

Oscar Pistorius by Daniel Castrogiovanni
Oscar Pistorius by Daniel Castrogiovanni.

You can see what illustrators made of the Olympics here, here and here.

Categories ,Atos, ,Caroline Coates, ,Claire Jones Art, ,Daniel Castrogiovanni, ,David Weir, ,Ellie Simmonds, ,Olympics, ,Oscar Pistorius, ,Pallers, ,Paralympics, ,Ruth Joyce, ,Tara Anne Bush

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Amelia’s Magazine | Easter 2013: Illustrated

Easter by Daniel Alexander
Easter by Daniel Alexander.

I don’t know about you but this feels like the least Eastery Easter for many years: normally the weather is becoming properly spring-like and the daffodils are blooming in abundance. In 2013 though, it still feels like the depths of a ridiculously long, cold, wet winter: and many animals are suffering due to the prolonged cold weather: sheep and lambs have been buried in snow drifts across the country, hedgehogs and other hibernating animals are unable to wake up because the weather is not warm enough yet, many birds and insects are unable to find food because the plants on which they feed are not yet in bloom and seabirds such as puffins are dying of starvation because they can’t eat enough to keep up their energy and keep themselves warm. And on that sobre note I present to you these Easter illustrations: all of them focused on pagan symbols that have been part of spring equinox celebrations the world over for thousands of years. Let’s hope new beginnings arrive soon.

Easter Bunnies by Katie Eberts
Easter Bunnies by Katie Eberts.

Easter Bunny by Ruth Joyce 2013
Easter Bunny by Ruth Joyce.

Easter Drawing by Holly Maguire
Easter Drawing by Holly Maguire.

garden of eden by Lucy Bishop
Garden of Eden by Lucy Bishop.

Easter Illustration by Constance Posey
Easter Illustration by Constance Posey.

Easter-by-Sylwia-Szyszka
Easter by Sylwia Szyszka.

Easter Bunny by Jo Chambers
Easter Bunny by Jo Chambers.

Easter by Madi Illustration
Easter by Madi Illustration.

Easter by Jo Rose (Dear Little Forest)
Easter by Jo Rose (Deer Little Forest).

easter by Benjamin Phillips
easter by Benjamin Phillips.

Categories ,2013, ,Benjamin Phillips, ,Bunnies, ,Chicks, ,Constance Posey, ,Daniel Alexander, ,Deer Little Forest, ,Easter, ,Eggs, ,Holly Maguire, ,illustration, ,Jo Chambers, ,Jo Rose, ,Katie Eberts, ,Lucy Bishop, ,Madi Illustration, ,Pagan, ,Rabits, ,Ruth Joyce, ,Studio Legohead, ,Sylwia Szyszka

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Amelia’s Magazine | Au Revoir Simone at the Garage: Live Review

Au Revoir Simone by Rhi Pardoe

Au Revoir Simone by Rhi Pardoe

It’s that time of year when the NME Awards once again roll into town – a series of gigs showcasing the great and the good of the current and up-and-coming music scene at assorted venues around the capital. Tonight was the turn of Williamsburg’s finest, Au Revoir Simone, currently mid-tour promoting their new album, at the Garage on Highbury Corner.

The Garage was already pretty busy when I got there, darkened and swirling with enough dry ice to prompt flashbacks to student disco nights, but I was just in time to catch some of the opening set, from the intriguing Mariam The Believer.

Au Revoir Simone by Ruth Joyce

Au Revoir Simone by Ruth Joyce

In the decade since they first got together, the trio of Erika Forster, Annie Hart and Heather D’Angelo have produced some shimmering sounds with their keyboards, drum machines and vocal harmonies, picking up a lot of fans along the way including, somewhat improbably, cult film director David Lynch. Au Revoir Simone’s fourth album, Move In Spectrums, has given the band’s already lush synth pop sound an extra sheen, as witnessed on the LP’s lead single, the double A side of Crazy and Somebody Who.

Au Revoir Simone by Sylwia Szyszka

Au Revoir Simone by Sylwia Szyszka

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Tonight was the first time I’d seen Au Revoir Simone in a couple of years (I’d caught them play Union Chapel and the Scala a while ago, but missed the sold out show at XOYO last September). Backlit on a darkened stage, the band kicked off with the cascading keyboard riffs of Just Like A Tree, which was followed by another track from the new album, the eerily 80s sounding Gravitron. There were actually quite a few songs from Move In Spectrums dotted throughout the set, but also a number from 2009’s Still Night, Still Light as well – Only You Can Make You Happy made an appearance, as did Knight Of Wands and, amongst others, the insistent Anywhere You Looked. Still Night, Still Light is probably the album that sits best with the band’s new long player, and I’m pretty sure none of their earlier tracks got a look in tonight.

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Au Revoir Simone by Calamus YY Chan

Au Revoir Simone by Calamus YY Chan

With their keyboards arranged side by side, and assorted drum pads dotted around, there wasn’t too much room to move on the Garage’s reasonably small stage. Vocal duties were mainly lead by Erika Forster, though Annie Hart took over for a few songs. There was also a bit of bass guitar swapping between the two as well, and Hart also persuaded the lighting guy to brighten the room so she could get a photo of the crowd on her phone! The band finished off with another song from Still Night, Still Light, the crowd pleaser Shadows, before an inevitable encore to the cheers of the throng.

Au Revoir Simone now head off for the final leg of the tour with some North American shows, and we just hope it’s not too long before we see them over here again.

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Categories ,Annie Hart, ,Au Revoir Simone, ,Calamus YY Chan, ,David Lynch, ,Erika Forster, ,Heather D’Angelo, ,Mariam The Believer, ,NME Awards, ,Rhi Pardoe, ,Ruth Joyce, ,Sylwia Szyszka, ,The Garage, ,the Scala, ,union chapel, ,XOYO

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