Fashion Scout – AmeliasMagazine

Amelia’s Magazine | The 2013 FAD Awards: London Fashion Week Catwalk Review

Stephanie Kitchen by Warren Clarke

The Fashion Awareness Direct (FAD) Awards are always an end-of-fashion-week treat. After five days of the freshest fashion talent dominating the catwalks at the Fashion Scout venue, FAD looks even further into the future at the best of the country’s undergraduate talent, based each season around a different theme.

Louis Anderson-Bythell – all photography by Matt Bramford

There could be no better a theme in this age of global change and austerity than ‘Future Optimism‘, which was the brief for this year’s students. Over 100 undergraduates submitted work for the competition, with fifteen entries showcased at this climatic event.

Anna Kim by Gabriel Ayala

Here’s a quick photographic rundown of the fifteen entries:

MATTHEW O’BRIEN

LUCINDA ROBERTS

STEPHANOS KONSTANTIOU

Stephanos Konstantiou by Laura Hickman

ROBERT MILLS

STEPHANIE KITCHEN

JOSEPH HORTON

CHELSEY CROSSLAND

LOUIS ANDERSON-BYTHELL

AYSHA SIMPSON

NNEKA OKORIE

KIMBERLEY PHILLIPS

LAURA CHITTENDEN

ANNA KIM

ESTELA NEVINSKAITE

MORWENNA DARWELL

And so on to the winners. It must have been a tough job for Hilary Alexander, Fashion Scout’s Martyn Roberts, Topshops’ Geraldine O’Brien, FAD’s Claire Muldoon and our pal Milly Jackson (who won the 2011 Award) to choose a winner.

Sitting at the end of the catwalk is fantastic for shots of models but not so fantastic if the awards action takes place at the opposite end.

One of my personal favourites, Nneka Okorie‘s glorious menswear, took one of the runner up prizes. Her slick trench-coats with digital printing techniques brought both expert tailoring and vivid colours to the catwalk and I loved the discrete details of city skylights on a backpack and trouser hems.

Stephanos Konstantiou took the other runner up prize with his futuristic neoprene collection with rigid cutaway details. His laser-cut houndstooth pattern was completely original, and I enjoyed the sharp silhouettes that his collection projected. Nneka and Stephanos both take home five hundred quid and an industry placement. Well done, pals!

The winner, described by Hilary Alexander as ‘unanimous’ and ‘one to watch’ for the coming seasons, was, deservedly, Stephanie Kitchen. A final year student at Bath Spa University (always a good show at Graduate Fashion Week), Stephanie’s innovative cycle wear earned cheers when it first appeared at the beginning of the show and rapturous applause when it was announced Stephanie had won. This collection brought together wearability, sustainability, style and functionality all in one. The cycle sunglasses were a hit, too.

Stephanie wins £1000 and an industry placement and her designs were also shown at London Fashion Weekend. I don’t think this will be the last time we see Stephanie on the London fashion catwalks.

Winner Stephanie Kitchen by Milly Jackson for FAD

Written by Matt Bramford on Monday February 25th, 2013 11:50 am

Categories ,2013, ,Anna Kim, ,Awards, ,Aysha Simpson, ,BA, ,catwalk, ,Chelsey Crossland, ,Estela Nevinskaite, ,FAD, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Gabriel Ayala, ,Hilary Alexander, ,Joseph Horton, ,Kimberley Phillips, ,Laura Chittenden, ,Laura Hickman, ,London Fashion Week, ,Louis Anderson-Bythell, ,Lucinda Roberts, ,Matt Bramford, ,Matthew O’Brien, ,menswear, ,Milly Jackson, ,Morwenna Darwell, ,Nneka Okorie, ,review, ,Robert Mills, ,Stephanie Kitchen, ,Stephanos Konstantinou, ,students, ,sustainability, ,undergraduate, ,Warren Clarke, ,Womenswear

Amelia’s Magazine | Ziad Ghanem: London Fashion Week A/W 2013 Catwalk Review

Ziad Ghanem A/W 2013 by Helena Maratheftis

Ziad Ghanem‘s catwalk shows are always momentous: massively oversubscribed, a cat-fight to get into and an array of weird and wonderful creatures desperate to get a glimpse of what the ‘cult couturier’ has delivered this season.

Ziad Ghanem A/W 2013 by Michael Arnold

So imagine my surprise when I arrived a mere fifteen minutes late to find that the show had already started. I darted up the Freemasons’ Hall‘s stairs and the vivacious models were already wowing the crowds. It was a struggle to take pictures between the illustrious millinery of Ziad‘s fans; the pictures that feature here aren’t amazing, particularly since you can’t actually see much of the clothes…

All photography by Matt Bramford

As always, it’s impossible to define this collection in terms of trends or style. It would perhaps be easier to talk about what didn’t appear – you won’t find any tailored trenches or wearable basics here. Instead, Ziad is notorious, infamous and celebrated for frocks that defy seasonality. His blend of couture is one of the rare displays of truly unique craftsmanship at fashion week.

To describe the music as eclectic would be a massive understatement. Munroe Bergdorf had put together a mammoth mixtape of hits across the decades, most of which I now can’t remember so I’ve made a note to make more notes next season. I do remember David Bowie‘s Fashion, George Michael‘s Too Funky and Duran Duran‘s Notorious, tracks synonymous with the catwalk but given a different feel in the majestic setting of the Freemasons’ Hall.

Ziad Ghanem A/W 2013 by Helena Maratheftis

Effervescent models strode one after the other to rapturous applause and deafening whoops. This particular collection had been inspired by Andy Warhol‘s superstar transvestite Candy Darling, star of Flesh and muse of The Velvet Underground. Lavish make-up featured on every model, with Ziad‘s boys wearing as much as his girls. There were hints of the 1980s with Boy George-esque layering and vibrant African patterns.

Some dresses fitted so tightly that some models were forced to walk more slowly than others, while other pieces nipped at the waist but flourished at the hips. A completely diverse selection of fabrics were on offer – couture lace, organza, translucent contrasts and painted cottons. A terrifying model came out waving feathers… with her knockers out and doing a bird impression. Christ, this is hard work. Maybe just look at the pictures. Not that they do this collection any justice.

Monty Python‘s Always Look on the Bright Side of Life accompanied the finale, another unexpected twist as if we needed any more, but an uplifting statement and a glorious finish to this fashion week spectacle.

Written by Matt Bramford on Friday February 22nd, 2013 11:38 am

Categories ,A/W’13, ,boy george, ,couture, ,David Bowie, ,Duran Duran, ,fashion, ,Fashion Scout, ,Feathers, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,George Michael, ,Helena Maratheftis, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,Matt Bramford, ,Michael Arnold, ,Monty Python, ,Munroe Bergdorf, ,Tits, ,Womenswear, ,Ziad Ghanem

Amelia’s Magazine | Timur Kim: London Fashion Week A/W 2013 Catwalk Review

Timur Kim AW2013 by Gareth A Hopkins
Timur Kim LFW A/W 2013 by Gareth A Hopkins

I like my fashion like I like my art: messy. I prefer Pollock to Rembrandt and Matisse to Van Eyck. When I was little my mother would tell me “you look like you’ve been dragged through a hedge backwards.” If someone told me that now I would reply with mock offense, while secretly thrilled; with one hand plumping my hair with great pride and with one leg kicking yesterday’s pop-socks out of my jeans. Okay, okay, it’s not really that extreme, but I do like a bit of rough and ready in my outfits. Despite all this, I can’t help but be charmed by the relaxed sophistication of Timur Kim‘s LFW A/W 2013 collection.

Timur Kim AW 2013

Timur Kim LFW A/W 2013 by Cruz Martinez

Timur Kim‘s clothes aren’t as wild as I like them, in fact they aren’t wild at all, but there’s a definite attractive femininity to the dresses as well as a practical, real-life girl vibe. The dresses aren’t the oh so common patronisingly femme I’ve grown used to, and instead the collection is subtle, light and refreshing. Skin for the sake of skin is not a feature of this show and there’s a modesty to the dresses, which are all knee-length, and there’s no cleavage in sight. The colours are muted, never too bright or shocking and the collection comes together really well as a whole.

Timur Kim AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory

The dresses march up and down the runway to American Pie. With brogue-clad feet to complete the image, as well as prints which are inspired by the ceilings of the Hermitage Museum.

Timur Kim AW 2013

Timur Kim LFW A/W 2013 by Cruz Martinez

A metallic skirt paired with a casual tee bearing the show logo is my favourite look of Timur Kim‘s collection, and I’m particularly enamoured with the tousled locks of the models. These are models without slicked back, over-styled hair and instead they sport free-flowing freshly-brushed do’s with a hint of bed-head.

Timur Kim AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory

The smart geometric-print dresses are ideal for work-wear and there’s plenty of frocks that would suit everything from cocktails to office. The pieces are so wearable in fact, that I can imagine them in my own wardrobe (if I was willing to sell a kidney to cover the cost). The way the seats are arranged at a show make a big difference to the audience, however as a non-frequent Londoner, nothing says ‘underground’ to me like facing a row of strangers with people coming and going between you. This is not helped by the yellow lines on the floor of Freemasons’ Hall. I love watching audiences and although my knowledge of celebrities pretty much begins at Victoria and ends at Beckham, I know my bloggers and notice Susie Bubble, complete with adorable backpack, in the crowd.

Timur Kim AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory

Central Saint Martins graduate Timur Kim has come up with a well balanced collection. Although there is a broad range of styles: with cigarette trousers alongside 1950′s skirts; the inspiration for the dresses is subtle with a twist of modernity, making this collection thoroughly indie. Whether it’s a Victorian feel or tribal prints, this Russian designer smartens it up for the modern day woman, then makes sure she lets her hair down.

Timur Kim AW 2013
All Photography by Jessica Cook and Amelia Gregory.

A pretty brunette gets up right before the show starts and walks up and down the runway, as though she’s looking for a friend. People sigh audibly with annoyance at this, perhaps because from day one, they are already accustomed to the LFW crowd attention-seeking which seems to play a part in the dynamics of these events. Or maybe they wish they were walking up the catwalk in their own kitten-heels, play-pretend modelling themselves. The girl seems lost, happy and clueless to the cynical eyes around her. Like Timur Kim‘s clothes, she is unpretentious and all the more beautiful for it.

Written by Jessica Cook on Wednesday February 20th, 2013 11:21 pm

Categories ,A/W 2013, ,Cruz Martinez, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Gareth A Hopkins, ,Hermitage Museum, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,Susie Bubble, ,Timur Kim

Amelia’s Magazine | Vita Gottlieb A/W 2014: London Fashion Week Preview

Vita Gottlieb A/W 2014 by xplusyequals

Vita Gottlieb A/W 2014 by xplusyequalshttp://www.xplusyequals.co.uk.

Since taking part in Fashion Fringe as a finalist in 2013, new designer Vita Gottlieb has been busy refining her unique vision, taking multiple influences from across the world and melding them into incredible constructions and beautifully tailored dresses. Her love for the environment is carried through into every aspect of her business; working with ethical suppliers, keeping wastage to a minimum and giving 10% of profits to charities. Here’s a sneak (illustrated) preview of the new A/W 2014 collection.

Vita Gottlieb AW 2014 mood board

Vita Gottlieb AW 2014 mood board long

Three things that I notice looking at your mood boards for the new collection: caging, owl, snail shell – how do these things and ideas impact the new collection?
Actually the owl and shell (it’s a mollusk) are there just as general mood images – I often have images piled up and all over the walls, just to aid the dreaming! But in a more focused mindset it’s just the collection images. For AW14 I was looking at cages, birds, palaces in India, in particular an old ruined Maharaja’s palace I visited in my gap year- and the idea of Grace Jones roaming through the palace with birds flying in and out of the ruins. I’m always taken with the juxtaposing strength against something more delicate or falling apart. There’s always a bit of an imaginary landscape in my concepts but also I imagine a character in a film and draw inspiration from what I perceive they will do and feel.

Vita Gottlieb AW 2014 colour sketches

Vita-Gottlieb-AW-14-sketches

Sketches by Vita Gottlieb.

You’re showing at Fashion Scout for the first time, how did this come about and what are you most nervous about?
I applied and got in! It’s so great to get to show with Fashion Scout as they support really innovative designers who go onto do big things in the industry, so it’s very exciting. At the moment the studio is quite relaxed as the collection is done, but we’re planning all the practical tasks before the show – casting, music, accessories, etc, plus organising sales documentation and planning some trade shows, also finalising production and deliveries for SS14 – the business side of things are always more nerve-wracking. I’m a bit nervous of the show though, that’s natural – mainly as it’s the first time as a designer that you see the whole collection worn together, and it’s a bit of a reveal – I just hope it’s coherent.

Vita Gottlieb A/W 2014 by Calamus Chan

Vita Gottlieb A/W 2014 by Calamus Chan.

What can we expect from your upcoming catwalk show?
Hopefully a bit of youthful energy and a strong dynamic.

Vita Gottlieb A/W 2014 by Leah Nelson

Vita Gottlieb A/W 2014 by Leah Nelson.

How have you achieved the technical details of the Caged collection? It sounds very complex!
Some pieces were very complex and technical but quite a lot of the collection is more commercial – I’m really aiming with this collection to break into new markets and territories and for it to do well on the sales side of things. But the fun stuff is always making the press pieces for editorial, you can really get creative and treat the materials in a more purely sculptural, instinctive way – I love that process, it’s one of my favourite parts in a collection’s development.

Vita Gottlieb A/W 2014 by Emma Farrarons

Vita Gottlieb A/W 2014 by Emma Farrarons.

It seems only yesterday that you made the decision to enter the world of fashion and already you are onto your fourth collection… what have you learnt along the way?
So much, mainly about running a business. I ran a production company before and a gallery but both on a really small scale – this industry has taught me a huge amount about management – of people, time, juggling the various departments in the business. And about how to edit, to focus, and remain in the moment with whatever task you’re doing. It’s a huge, huge workload, but I’m learning to compartmentalize more and really hone in on something until it’s done as well as it can be. And I’ve learnt I really need space and time for myself, which is a rarity in this business! So something I’m working on achieving from next season on.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Friday February 14th, 2014 8:37 am

Categories ,AW14, ,Caged, ,Calamus Chan, ,Emma Farrarons, ,Fashion Fringe, ,Fashion Scout, ,Grace Jones, ,Leah Nelson, ,xplusyequals

Amelia’s Magazine | Vita Gottlieb: London Fashion Week A/W 2014 Catwalk Review

Vita Gottlieb A/W 2014 by xplusyequals

Vita Gottlieb A/W 2014 by xplusyequals.

We ran a preview of Vita Gottlieb’s fourth collection, so I had an inkling of what to expect from the Fashion Fringe finalist before she took to the Fashion Scout catwalk for the first time for a stunning rendition of what she does best: combining sumptuous textiles with an intriguing silhouette.

Vita Gottlieb AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Vita Gottlieb by Kit Wagstaff

Vita Gottlieb by Kit Wagstaff.

Vita Gottlieb names this collection Caged, after an imaginary film featuring Grace Jones in a Majaraja’s palace. The idea of birds in flight at sunset (this would obviously be a beautiful cinematic experience) influenced the romantic warmth of the fiery colour palette, with prints and textiles rich in multi-coloured spice hues. A more literal interpretation came in the form of birds floating across a pretty landscape print.

Vita Gottlieb AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

The caged theme appeared in a skirt and jacket made up entirely of strips, and appeared in more commercial form as glossy black bindings, highlighting womanly curves. Alongside skin tight separates there were also boxy jackets and eye-catching layered maxi skirts. Furled scarfs gave detail to the neck, buckled arm cuffs added edge and sheer and textured black fabrics were rendered especially stunning with the addition of multi coloured appliqué details. The show closed with a magnificent yellow dress, split to the upper thigh and resplendent with a dramatic zig-zag design.

Vita Gottlieb AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Vita Gottlieb AW 2014-end

All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Monday March 3rd, 2014 5:17 pm

Categories ,A/W 2014, ,Caged, ,Fashion Fringe, ,Fashion Scout, ,Grace Jones, ,Kit Wagstaff, ,Majaraja, ,review, ,Vita Gottlieb, ,xplusyequals

Amelia’s Magazine | Vita Gottlieb: London Fashion Week S/S 2015 Catwalk Review

vita gottlieb - llfw - ss15 - jenny robins
Vita Gottlieb by Jenny Robins.

She may only have been creating collections for a few seasons, but Vita Gottlieb has already honed her look to great effect. For her S/S 2015 collection Microworld Vita found inspiration at the bottom of the sea; in the peachy hues of coral reefs and the creature filled waters of the far deep. A sensation of floating was achieved by the use of gossamer light asymmetric panels of georgette, juxtaposed against graphical black blocks on slouchy tees and swing skirts. Signature prints were created from the swirling botanical illustrations of Ernst Haeckel and worked well with stripes of contrast bias binding and delicate layered waist ties. Lacey laser cut gloves, smokey eyes, high hair and spike heeled metallic sandals gave a glamorous edge to everyday pieces, as Vita Gottlieb once more successfully married the avante grade with the wearable.

Scroll to the bottom to watch the video of the show.

Vita Gottlieb by Karolina Burdon.

Vita Gottlieb SS15 by Isabelle Mattern.

Vita Gottlieb SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory

All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Vita Gottlieb SS15 show video from Vita Gottlieb on Vimeo.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Friday October 10th, 2014 4:11 pm

Categories ,Catwalk review, ,Ernst Haeckel, ,Fashion Scout, ,Isabelle Mattern, ,Jenny Robins, ,Karolina Burdon, ,London Fashion Week, ,Microworld, ,S/S 2015, ,SS15, ,Vita Gottlieb

Amelia’s Magazine | Xiao Li, Fashion Scout Merit Award Winner: London Fashion Week A/W 2014 Catwalk Review

Xiao Li A/W 2014 by Slowly The Eggs aka Maria Papadimitriou

Xiao Li A/W 2014 by Slowly The Eggs aka Maria Papadimitriou.

We covered Xiao Li when she took part in the graduate showcase at Fashion Scout last season, and this year she returned to the catwalk with a stunning new collection as a winner of the much coveted Fashion Scout Merit Award. Chinese born Xiao Li is yet another example of the great education we provide in the arts, gaining an BA in womenswear from LCF and then an MA in knitwear from the RCA. She sent her clothing down the catwalk to one of my current favourite tunes: a cover of Daft Punk’s Get Lucky by Daughter. It was the perfect accompaniment to her collection, sweet as sugar but totally fresh and modern.

Xiao Li by Katie Rose Johnston

Xiao Li by Katie Rose Johnston.

Xiao Li AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Girls wore a simple pink wash in their hair, minimal make up and clumpy platform sandals to accompany billowy mesh, latex and silicon separates covered in geometric 3D decorative details. There were gigantic puffy sleeves, feature pockets, frou frou pencil skirts, wide legged trousers, a cape and even a pair of dungarees.

Xiao Li by Amy Dover

Xiao Li by Amy Dover.

Xiao Li AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Xiao Li by Katie Rose Johnston

Xiao Li by Katie Rose Johnston.

Xiao Li’s strength is in her deft combination of unexpected material, technique and shape to create an extraordinary and often breathtaking silhouette. The predominantly baby blue and cream palette was offset by the use of intense royal blue, with the last outfit spectacularly fading into dark so that the integral LED lights glowed in an otherworldly manner.

Xiao Li AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Thursday February 27th, 2014 4:17 pm

Categories ,Amy Dover, ,Daft Punk, ,Daughter, ,Fashion Scout, ,Get Lucky, ,iceland, ,Katie Rose Johnston, ,LCF, ,Maria Papadimitriou, ,Merit Award, ,rca, ,Slowly the Eggs, ,Xiao Li

Amelia’s Magazine | Yeashin: Fashion Scout Ones to Watch A/W 2013 Catwalk Review

Yeashin A/W 2013 by Sylwia Szyszka.

South Korean designer Yeashin Kim‘s Woodland collection juxtaposed traditional Korean dress with inspiration from the swinging 60s. The colourful results built on the look she has been honing since completing her studies in fine arts and then attending the London College of Fashion.

Yeashin A/W 2013 by Laura Hickman.

ones to watch yeashin AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory

Yeashin A/W 2013 by Victoria Wright.

A multitude of textures were thrown together and somehow emerged victorious. Oversized embellished hats, plenty of colourful trims and digitally printed woodgrain based on Korean furniture lent the collection a fairytale feel, with bespoke woolly boots adorned with pompoms adding to the idea that the models could have stepped off the pages of a children’s book (no bad thing in my world).

Yeashin A/W 2013 by Laura Hickman.

ones to watch yeashin AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory

Yeashin-by-Sylwia-Szyszka
Yeashin A/W 2013 by Sylwia Szyszka.

Skirts were predominantly short and flared, collars adorned with on trend details, cuffs beautifully buttoned or trimmed in wool. Knitwear came in the form of a dotty cape, bolero and cosy looking chequerboard coat. Yeashin‘s was a delightfully unique collection in this time of monochrome madness, and all the better for it.

ones to watch yeashin AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory

All photography by Amelia Gregory.

<a target="_blank" href="http://www.vimeo.com/59188092" rel="noopener">http://www.vimeo.com/59188092</a>

Written by Amelia Gregory on Tuesday February 26th, 2013 12:53 pm

Categories ,A/W 2013, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,knitwear, ,Laura Hickman, ,London College of Fashion, ,London Fashion Week, ,Ones To Watch, ,review, ,South Korean, ,Sylwia Szyszka, ,Victoria Wright, ,woodland, ,Yeashin, ,Yeashin Kim

Amelia’s Magazine | Yeashin: London Fashion Week S/S 2014 Catwalk Review

Yeashin S/S 2014 by Slowly The Eggs.

Last season Yeashin‘s Woodland collection trod a narrow line between dressing up and playing dress up (kid style) so I was intrigued to see how this Korean label would progress with a stand alone show.

Yeashin S:S 2014 by Lynne Datson
Yeashin S/S 2014 by Lynne Datson.

Yeashin SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Yeashin S/S 2014. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Yeashin S:S 2014 by Gaarte
Yeashin S/S 2014 by Gaarte.

The extravagant layering of texture and colour that worked so well in the winter collection were translated with less success into a more summery vibe: plenty of frills, pearls and embroidery splashed across loose little girl bib dresses and used to vamp up cute girly blouses (the best garments in this show), all worn by models with long shimmery limbs. Pleats, bobbly spots and scattered leaves were echoes of last season too, this time accessorised with pie crust paper hats and simple nude coloured heels.

Yeashin S/S 2014 by Claire Kearns.

Yeashin SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

This was a resolutely whimsical collection that erred a little too much towards the saccharine for my taste. I look forward to seeing how Yeashin develops as the seasons go forward.

<a target="_blank" href="http://www.vimeo.com/74455682" rel="noopener">http://www.vimeo.com/74455682</a>

Written by Amelia Gregory on Monday September 16th, 2013 10:12 pm

Categories ,Claire Kearns, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Gaarte, ,Lynne Datson, ,S/S 2014, ,Slowly the Eggs, ,Summer Afternoon Party, ,woodland, ,Yeashin

Amelia’s Magazine | Yifang Wan, Fashion Scout Merit Award Winner: London Fashion Week A/W 2013 Catwalk Review

Yifang Wan A/W 2013 by Gabriel Ayala

Fashion Week A/W 2013 got off to a cracking start on Friday, for anybody who actually turned up. I didn’t, thanks to the effects of an anti-Valentine’s cocktail binge, instead spent the evening in bed with fish and chips and half a bottle of Rioja. So it was Saturday morning where my season started, heading as I did to this season’s Fashion Scout Merit Award winner – Yifang Wan.

Photography by Amelia Gregory

Previous Merit Award winners including David Koma, Felder Felder, William Tempest and Leutton Postle have all gone on to establish successful labels and the pressure of such previous acclaim must be terrifying — but its effects weren’t evident in this polished collection by Yifang Wan.

Yifang Wan A/W 2013 by Dom&Ink

All other photography by Matt Bramford

Record numbers packed the ‘white room’ of the Freemasons’ Hall, and so my view of the show was framed by a diminutive Frenchman wielding a vogue.fr microphone like a maniac and a very excitable girl with masses of hair. Her head was all over the place trying to secure a good shot and I was forced to perform a strange sort of swaying dance with my zoom lens, not unlike an Emperor penguin.

Yifang Wan A/W 2013 by Dom&Ink

I’d briefly taken an interest in Wan‘s work when the Merit prize was awarded at the beginning of the year, and her previous collections draw inspiration from her Asian heritage and long, draped silhouettes dominate her previous outings. So it was no surprise, in the best possible way, to see these themes continued for A/W 2013, with inspiration from performance artist ‪Marina Abramović‬, most famous for sitting in a smock and staring at New Yorkers in the MOMA for 700 hours.

Only four rich colours featured in this collection – deep blue, green, red and black in thick fabrics. Jackets came with triangular slices removed almost with abandon as fabrics draped asymmetrically and architecturally. Almost every piece skimmed the floor, while fabric swayed and draped in different directions with emphasis on Far Eastern cuts. Each piece was accessorised with intriguing angular sculptural pieces, some worn around necks, others carried almost like weaponry.

Yifang Wan is no stranger to awards, having won the L’Oreal Professionel Award at Saint Martins as an MA student. Her £25,000 prize this season will hopefully propel the designer’s label in the direction it deserves.

Written by Matt Bramford on Tuesday February 19th, 2013 1:31 pm

Categories ,A/W 2013, ,A/W’13, ,catwalk, ,Central Saint Martins, ,East, ,Fashion Scout, ,Gabriel Ayala, ,Kimono, ,marina abramovic, ,Matt Bramford, ,Merit Award, ,Orient, ,review, ,Yifang Wan

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