Fashion Scout – AmeliasMagazine

Amelia’s Magazine | Swedish School of Textiles: London Fashion Week S/S 2014 Catwalk Review part one

Swedish school of textiles by-Antonia-Parker
Jesper Danielsson by Antonia Parker.

As in previous years, the Swedish School of Textiles at Boras took to the catwalk at Fashion Scout to showcase the best of their graduates. As the press release stated, this was not about commerciality but about promoting the myriad creative ways in which their students approach the use of textiles in fashion. At 35 minutes long this trip was not for the faint hearted and I felt sorry for the later designers, who lost audience members to the Holly Fulton show. Luckily me and my bike are fairly swift so I saw the show out, and was very glad I did since the closing collection was one of my favourites. I’ve split my coverage into two posts, but I’ll keep my commentary short.

Swedish School Of Textiles SS14 by Gareth A Hopkins
Jesper Danielsson by Gareth A Hopkins.

Swedish School of Textiles SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Jesper Danielsson opened the show with a series of Functional Cuts for men: my favourites being the orange ombre jumpsuit, a playful splatter print coat and a huge hooded gold puffa.

Swedish School of Textiles SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Emelie Ahlner presented a clever collection titled Kurbitch! that featured curly laser cut panelling on multiple forms of fabric: neon perspex, plastic, denim, glitter and pearlescent fabrics were all used with wild abandon.

Swedish School of Textiles SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Units from Anna Margareta Svensson was a far more minimalist affair, presenting boxy shapes in an intriguing juxtaposition of textures and an on trend colour palette of muted colours mixed with a pop of tangerine. One outfit was accompanied with a fab clutch bag and I liked the flip flops that were styled with panels of latex, which gave a subtle Japanese feel to the collection.

Swedish School of Textiles for LFW - Becca Corney
Elias Hogberg by Becca Corney.

Swedish School of Textiles SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Elias Hogberg merged utilitarian winter fashions with peasant styling in the form of furry hoods, warm shearling coats and elaborate floral prints on apron-like panels.

Swedish School Of Textiles SS14 by Gareth A Hopkins
Emelie Johansson by Gareth A Hopkins.

Swedish School of Textiles SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Menswear from Emelie Johansson successfully combined the sheerest of fabrics with both tailoring and sporty details. And the large round sunglasses were a real winner.

Stay tuned for the second part of my review, which includes a video of the show.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Saturday September 21st, 2013 8:02 pm

Categories ,Anna Margareta Svensson, ,Antonia Parker, ,Becca Corney, ,Boras, ,catwalk, ,Elias Hogberg, ,Emelie Ahlner, ,Emelie Johansson, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Functional Cuts, ,Gareth A Hopkins, ,graduate, ,Holly Fulton, ,Jesper Danielsson, ,Kurbitch!, ,london, ,menswear, ,review, ,Swedish, ,Swedish School of Textiles, ,textiles, ,Units, ,Womenswear

Amelia’s Magazine | Zeynep Tosun: London Fashion Week S/S 2014 Catwalk Review

Zeynep Tosun S/S 2014 by Dom&Ink.

Last week I ran an exclusive preview on Zeynep Tosun because last season her collection was one of my highlights. For Spring/Summer she did not disappoint, leaping into warmer weather with a range of summery fabrics that included sporty netting, floaty chiffon and swinging panels of silk in a gossamer light colour palette of creams, dove grey, mint, on trend powder pink and caramel, accented with glossy navy and black. Out of three Turkish designers showing in London this season she was the only one not to be inspired by the effects of recent turmoils on home soil, instead inspiration was taken from the androgynous sexuality of the 1920s and transformed into a series of sport luxe garments fit for the modern day minx. The flared cut of the cape was a key shape, with capelets integral to tops and dresses, as were peek-a-boo cutout details, revealing appealing glimpses of belly and back. Delicate glass beads provided a focal point for evening wear, either fringing the sides of net panels or cascading in geometric designs down the front of slinky dresses. Styling by Tamara Cincik was kept simple: sleek ponytails were accessorised with sultry eyes and simple rope flip flops. Keep your eyes on Zeynep Tosun, she’s making big waves over at Fashion Scout.

Zeynep Tosun S/S 2014 by Dom&Ink.

Zeynep Tosun S/S 2014 by Isabelle Mattern.

Zeynep Tosun SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Zeynep Tosun S/S 2014. All photography by Amelia Gregory and Tim Adey.

<a target="_blank" href="http://www.vimeo.com/74456040" rel="noopener">http://www.vimeo.com/74456040</a>

Written by Amelia Gregory on Friday September 20th, 2013 10:23 pm

Categories ,1920s, ,catwalk, ,Dom&Ink, ,Fashion Scout, ,Isabelle Mattern, ,review, ,S/S 2014, ,Tamara Cincik, ,Tim Adey, ,Turkish, ,Zeynep Tosun

Amelia’s Magazine | Swedish School of Textiles: London Fashion Week S/S 2014 Catwalk Review part two

Emma Lindqvist by Novemto Komo.

Following on from part one of my review I present the next six graduates to show on the catwalk with the Swedish School of Textiles at Fashion Scout in Freemasons’ Hall. As always, there were some ace looks to grace the runway…

Swedish School of Textiles SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Saina Koohnavard was enamoured of brocade and optical geometric prints in Chickipedia, using the lines to emphasise womanly curves in puff sleeved dresses and bodiced playsuits.

Swedish school of textiles by-Antonia-Parker
Emelie Arvidsson by Antonia Parker.

Swedish School of Textiles SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Emelie Arvidsson‘s End of Line played with sportswear styling: oversizing the familiar stripes on maxi dresses and jackets.

Swedish School of Textiles SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

For Duo Klara Hobbs played with simple panels of fabric that exposed the unexpected.

Swedish School Of Textiles SS14 2 by Gareth A Hopkins
Gustav Falgen by Gareth A Hopkins.

Swedish School of Textiles SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Gustav Falgen looked to multiple subcultures to create a bleached, puffered, braced and booted collection that was not for the faint hearted. Bears on the Loose, indeed.

Swedish School of Textiles SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Emma Lindqvist had fun layering abstract prints on different opacities of fabrics to create optical illusions as the clothes moved.

Swedish School of Textiles SS14 by Vicky Ink
Karolina Persson by Vicky Ink.

Swedish School of Textiles SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Karolina Persson took next season’s favourite powder pink and spruced it up for colder climes. Her incredibly clever collection featured a round shouldered coat that had been quilted to resemble a chunky knit. Further garments played with this tromp l’oeil effect, emphasising cables with print and stitch. It was a great collection to end on. Graduates of the Swedish School of Textiles never fail to impress.

All photography by Amelia Gregory. Watch a video featuring all of the designers below:

<a target="_blank" href="http://www.vimeo.com/74455977" rel="noopener">http://www.vimeo.com/74455977</a>

Written by Amelia Gregory on Sunday September 22nd, 2013 1:01 pm

Categories ,Antonia Parker, ,Bears on the Loose, ,Chickipedia, ,Duo, ,Emelie Arvidsson, ,Emma Lindqvist, ,End of Line, ,Exit 13, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,graduate, ,Gustav Falgen, ,Karolina Persson, ,Klara Hobbs, ,london, ,London Fashion Week, ,Novemto Komo, ,review, ,Saina Koohnavard, ,Swedish, ,Swedish School of Textiles, ,textiles, ,Vicky Ink

Amelia’s Magazine | Zeynep Tosun: London Fashion Week S/S 2014 Preview Interview

Zeynep Tosun S/S 2014 preview by Laura Hickman.

Last season I was blown away by the discovery of Zeynep Tosun, an ambitious Turkish designer with a penchant for beautiful embellishment. This season Zeynep Tosun takes inspiration from the androgyny and sexual freedom of the 1920s for her Hidden collection. Yesterday I caught up with her in the studio to get a sneak peak of what to expect – beautifully illustrated by Laura Hickman.

Zeynep Tosun S/S 2014 preview by Laura Hickman.

I loved your show last season, how did you construct such elaborate pieces, and who does all the handiwork such as embroidery for you?
I have my own atelier in Istanbul which allows me to experiment with intricate and innovative haute couture techniques. All my embroidery is done in-house.

You have had your own brand since 2008, what has been the journey so far?
It’s been a rollercoaster ride…

What did you learn working with the likes of Alberta Ferretti and Dice Kayak?
Working at Ferretti was my first experience after graduating from Istituto di Maragoni in Milan, so it shaped my character and allowed me to hone my skills to haute couture.

This season you’ve been inspired by the 1920s – how have you translated this time period into a modern collection?
The collection denotes concealed sexuality and merges androgynous shapes with allusive femininity.

What kind of materials have you worked with for the new collection?
Luxe stone-washed silk and silk chiffon, S/S 2014 plays on transparency in a muted palette of white, smoke, navy and candy pink.

How easy was it to set up a flagship store in Istanbul and who are your customers?
My success in Istanbul led to the opening of my flagship store in Akmerkez, and the demand from my private clients mean it has grown every season. My next goal is to open stores in London and New York.

What is it like to work in Turkey in the fashion industry: what are the perks and the challenges?
I am well established as a designer in Turkey so I have much support. London is the platform to build the label internationally.

Zeynep Tosun shows on the catwalk at Freemasons’ Hall with Fashion Scout on Saturday 14th September.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Friday September 13th, 2013 10:45 am

Categories ,Akmerkez, ,Alberta Ferretti, ,Dice Kayak, ,Fashion Scout, ,Ferretti, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Hidden, ,interview, ,Istanbul, ,Istituto di Maragoni, ,Laura Hickman, ,preview, ,S/S 2014, ,Zeynep Tosun

Amelia’s Magazine | Tabernacle Twins: London Fashion Week S/S 2014 Catwalk Review

Tabernacle Twins S/S 2014 by Karolina Burdon.

Tabernacle Twins was a new brand to me, but having visited the website my interest was piqued. The label is described as an exploration of fashion, textiles and illustration by designer Vibe Lundemark, a graduate of the RCA now relocated home to Denmark.

Tabernacle Twins S/S 2014 by Rose Crees.

The show began with the appearance of the ‘Tabernacle Twins‘ who, as Vibe Lundemark‘s creative muses, take fictional journeys through surreal landscapes. This season the scene was set for a Cobra Casablanca, with our handouts describing a desert quest to search for a magic cobra, meeting fortune tellers, jesters and street magicians along the way. These ideas were translated into colourful abstract illustrations that crept and curled across large panels of fabric on dresses and blowsy shirts. Vibe Lundemark used a bold colour palette of lilac, purple, peach and ochre which was lightened by plentiful white across this relaxed collection. Girls with bright matte orange lips swung talismans from their wrists and paced the catwalk in patent white DMs with ankle socks. Alongside blouson shapes that were the perfect canvas for prints there were tailored details that included cowl necks, a crop top covered in pointy scales and a lacey matching shorts suit. A marbled chequerboard in deep purple on white created an arresting all over effect.

Tabernacle Twins SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Tabernacle Twins S/S 2014. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

It seemed odd that the girls chosen as twins were barely alike, and not even the same height, but that aside the twins were an appealing visual concept, who cropped up several times on the runway wearing key pieces. I liked the use of narrative to drive ideas behind the collection and look forward to seeing more from the Tabernacle Twins on future Fashion Scout runways.

Tabernacle Twins SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Written by Amelia Gregory on Saturday September 21st, 2013 12:46 pm

Categories ,catwalk, ,Cobra Casablanca, ,copenhagen, ,Danish, ,Denmark, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Karolina Burdon, ,London Fashion Week, ,rca, ,review, ,Rose Crees, ,S/S 2014, ,Tabernacle Twins, ,Vibe Lundemark

Amelia’s Magazine | Ziad Ghanem: London Fashion Week A/W 2013 Catwalk Review

Ziad Ghanem A/W 2013 by Helena Maratheftis

Ziad Ghanem‘s catwalk shows are always momentous: massively oversubscribed, a cat-fight to get into and an array of weird and wonderful creatures desperate to get a glimpse of what the ‘cult couturier’ has delivered this season.

Ziad Ghanem A/W 2013 by Michael Arnold

So imagine my surprise when I arrived a mere fifteen minutes late to find that the show had already started. I darted up the Freemasons’ Hall‘s stairs and the vivacious models were already wowing the crowds. It was a struggle to take pictures between the illustrious millinery of Ziad‘s fans; the pictures that feature here aren’t amazing, particularly since you can’t actually see much of the clothes…

All photography by Matt Bramford

As always, it’s impossible to define this collection in terms of trends or style. It would perhaps be easier to talk about what didn’t appear – you won’t find any tailored trenches or wearable basics here. Instead, Ziad is notorious, infamous and celebrated for frocks that defy seasonality. His blend of couture is one of the rare displays of truly unique craftsmanship at fashion week.

To describe the music as eclectic would be a massive understatement. Munroe Bergdorf had put together a mammoth mixtape of hits across the decades, most of which I now can’t remember so I’ve made a note to make more notes next season. I do remember David Bowie‘s Fashion, George Michael‘s Too Funky and Duran Duran‘s Notorious, tracks synonymous with the catwalk but given a different feel in the majestic setting of the Freemasons’ Hall.

Ziad Ghanem A/W 2013 by Helena Maratheftis

Effervescent models strode one after the other to rapturous applause and deafening whoops. This particular collection had been inspired by Andy Warhol‘s superstar transvestite Candy Darling, star of Flesh and muse of The Velvet Underground. Lavish make-up featured on every model, with Ziad‘s boys wearing as much as his girls. There were hints of the 1980s with Boy George-esque layering and vibrant African patterns.

Some dresses fitted so tightly that some models were forced to walk more slowly than others, while other pieces nipped at the waist but flourished at the hips. A completely diverse selection of fabrics were on offer – couture lace, organza, translucent contrasts and painted cottons. A terrifying model came out waving feathers… with her knockers out and doing a bird impression. Christ, this is hard work. Maybe just look at the pictures. Not that they do this collection any justice.

Monty Python‘s Always Look on the Bright Side of Life accompanied the finale, another unexpected twist as if we needed any more, but an uplifting statement and a glorious finish to this fashion week spectacle.

Written by Matt Bramford on Friday February 22nd, 2013 11:38 am

Categories ,A/W’13, ,boy george, ,couture, ,David Bowie, ,Duran Duran, ,fashion, ,Fashion Scout, ,Feathers, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,George Michael, ,Helena Maratheftis, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,Matt Bramford, ,Michael Arnold, ,Monty Python, ,Munroe Bergdorf, ,Tits, ,Womenswear, ,Ziad Ghanem

Amelia’s Magazine | The 2013 FAD Awards: London Fashion Week Catwalk Review

Stephanie Kitchen by Warren Clarke

The Fashion Awareness Direct (FAD) Awards are always an end-of-fashion-week treat. After five days of the freshest fashion talent dominating the catwalks at the Fashion Scout venue, FAD looks even further into the future at the best of the country’s undergraduate talent, based each season around a different theme.

Louis Anderson-Bythell – all photography by Matt Bramford

There could be no better a theme in this age of global change and austerity than ‘Future Optimism‘, which was the brief for this year’s students. Over 100 undergraduates submitted work for the competition, with fifteen entries showcased at this climatic event.

Anna Kim by Gabriel Ayala

Here’s a quick photographic rundown of the fifteen entries:

MATTHEW O’BRIEN

LUCINDA ROBERTS

STEPHANOS KONSTANTIOU

Stephanos Konstantiou by Laura Hickman

ROBERT MILLS

STEPHANIE KITCHEN

JOSEPH HORTON

CHELSEY CROSSLAND

LOUIS ANDERSON-BYTHELL

AYSHA SIMPSON

NNEKA OKORIE

KIMBERLEY PHILLIPS

LAURA CHITTENDEN

ANNA KIM

ESTELA NEVINSKAITE

MORWENNA DARWELL

And so on to the winners. It must have been a tough job for Hilary Alexander, Fashion Scout’s Martyn Roberts, Topshops’ Geraldine O’Brien, FAD’s Claire Muldoon and our pal Milly Jackson (who won the 2011 Award) to choose a winner.

Sitting at the end of the catwalk is fantastic for shots of models but not so fantastic if the awards action takes place at the opposite end.

One of my personal favourites, Nneka Okorie‘s glorious menswear, took one of the runner up prizes. Her slick trench-coats with digital printing techniques brought both expert tailoring and vivid colours to the catwalk and I loved the discrete details of city skylights on a backpack and trouser hems.

Stephanos Konstantiou took the other runner up prize with his futuristic neoprene collection with rigid cutaway details. His laser-cut houndstooth pattern was completely original, and I enjoyed the sharp silhouettes that his collection projected. Nneka and Stephanos both take home five hundred quid and an industry placement. Well done, pals!

The winner, described by Hilary Alexander as ‘unanimous’ and ‘one to watch’ for the coming seasons, was, deservedly, Stephanie Kitchen. A final year student at Bath Spa University (always a good show at Graduate Fashion Week), Stephanie’s innovative cycle wear earned cheers when it first appeared at the beginning of the show and rapturous applause when it was announced Stephanie had won. This collection brought together wearability, sustainability, style and functionality all in one. The cycle sunglasses were a hit, too.

Stephanie wins £1000 and an industry placement and her designs were also shown at London Fashion Weekend. I don’t think this will be the last time we see Stephanie on the London fashion catwalks.

Winner Stephanie Kitchen by Milly Jackson for FAD

Written by Matt Bramford on Monday February 25th, 2013 11:50 am

Categories ,2013, ,Anna Kim, ,Awards, ,Aysha Simpson, ,BA, ,catwalk, ,Chelsey Crossland, ,Estela Nevinskaite, ,FAD, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Gabriel Ayala, ,Hilary Alexander, ,Joseph Horton, ,Kimberley Phillips, ,Laura Chittenden, ,Laura Hickman, ,London Fashion Week, ,Louis Anderson-Bythell, ,Lucinda Roberts, ,Matt Bramford, ,Matthew O’Brien, ,menswear, ,Milly Jackson, ,Morwenna Darwell, ,Nneka Okorie, ,review, ,Robert Mills, ,Stephanie Kitchen, ,Stephanos Konstantinou, ,students, ,sustainability, ,undergraduate, ,Warren Clarke, ,Womenswear

Amelia’s Magazine | Ziad Ghanem: London Fashion Week A/W 2013 Catwalk Review

Ziad Ghanem A/W 2013 by Helena Maratheftis

Ziad Ghanem A/W 2013 by Michael Arnold

All photography by Matt Bramford

Ziad Ghanem A/W 2013 by Helena Maratheftis

Written by Matt Bramford on Friday February 22nd, 2013 11:38 am

Amelia’s Magazine | Timur Kim: London Fashion Week A/W 2013 Catwalk Review

Timur Kim AW2013 by Gareth A Hopkins
Timur Kim LFW A/W 2013 by Gareth A Hopkins

I like my fashion like I like my art: messy. I prefer Pollock to Rembrandt and Matisse to Van Eyck. When I was little my mother would tell me “you look like you’ve been dragged through a hedge backwards.” If someone told me that now I would reply with mock offense, while secretly thrilled; with one hand plumping my hair with great pride and with one leg kicking yesterday’s pop-socks out of my jeans. Okay, okay, it’s not really that extreme, but I do like a bit of rough and ready in my outfits. Despite all this, I can’t help but be charmed by the relaxed sophistication of Timur Kim‘s LFW A/W 2013 collection.

Timur Kim AW 2013

Timur Kim LFW A/W 2013 by Cruz Martinez

Timur Kim‘s clothes aren’t as wild as I like them, in fact they aren’t wild at all, but there’s a definite attractive femininity to the dresses as well as a practical, real-life girl vibe. The dresses aren’t the oh so common patronisingly femme I’ve grown used to, and instead the collection is subtle, light and refreshing. Skin for the sake of skin is not a feature of this show and there’s a modesty to the dresses, which are all knee-length, and there’s no cleavage in sight. The colours are muted, never too bright or shocking and the collection comes together really well as a whole.

Timur Kim AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory

The dresses march up and down the runway to American Pie. With brogue-clad feet to complete the image, as well as prints which are inspired by the ceilings of the Hermitage Museum.

Timur Kim AW 2013

Timur Kim LFW A/W 2013 by Cruz Martinez

A metallic skirt paired with a casual tee bearing the show logo is my favourite look of Timur Kim‘s collection, and I’m particularly enamoured with the tousled locks of the models. These are models without slicked back, over-styled hair and instead they sport free-flowing freshly-brushed do’s with a hint of bed-head.

Timur Kim AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory

The smart geometric-print dresses are ideal for work-wear and there’s plenty of frocks that would suit everything from cocktails to office. The pieces are so wearable in fact, that I can imagine them in my own wardrobe (if I was willing to sell a kidney to cover the cost). The way the seats are arranged at a show make a big difference to the audience, however as a non-frequent Londoner, nothing says ‘underground’ to me like facing a row of strangers with people coming and going between you. This is not helped by the yellow lines on the floor of Freemasons’ Hall. I love watching audiences and although my knowledge of celebrities pretty much begins at Victoria and ends at Beckham, I know my bloggers and notice Susie Bubble, complete with adorable backpack, in the crowd.

Timur Kim AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory

Central Saint Martins graduate Timur Kim has come up with a well balanced collection. Although there is a broad range of styles: with cigarette trousers alongside 1950′s skirts; the inspiration for the dresses is subtle with a twist of modernity, making this collection thoroughly indie. Whether it’s a Victorian feel or tribal prints, this Russian designer smartens it up for the modern day woman, then makes sure she lets her hair down.

Timur Kim AW 2013
All Photography by Jessica Cook and Amelia Gregory.

A pretty brunette gets up right before the show starts and walks up and down the runway, as though she’s looking for a friend. People sigh audibly with annoyance at this, perhaps because from day one, they are already accustomed to the LFW crowd attention-seeking which seems to play a part in the dynamics of these events. Or maybe they wish they were walking up the catwalk in their own kitten-heels, play-pretend modelling themselves. The girl seems lost, happy and clueless to the cynical eyes around her. Like Timur Kim‘s clothes, she is unpretentious and all the more beautiful for it.

Written by Jessica Cook on Wednesday February 20th, 2013 11:21 pm

Categories ,A/W 2013, ,Cruz Martinez, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Gareth A Hopkins, ,Hermitage Museum, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,Susie Bubble, ,Timur Kim

Amelia’s Magazine | Vita Gottlieb A/W 2014: London Fashion Week Preview

Vita Gottlieb A/W 2014 by xplusyequals

Vita Gottlieb A/W 2014 by xplusyequalshttp://www.xplusyequals.co.uk.

Since taking part in Fashion Fringe as a finalist in 2013, new designer Vita Gottlieb has been busy refining her unique vision, taking multiple influences from across the world and melding them into incredible constructions and beautifully tailored dresses. Her love for the environment is carried through into every aspect of her business; working with ethical suppliers, keeping wastage to a minimum and giving 10% of profits to charities. Here’s a sneak (illustrated) preview of the new A/W 2014 collection.

Vita Gottlieb AW 2014 mood board

Vita Gottlieb AW 2014 mood board long

Three things that I notice looking at your mood boards for the new collection: caging, owl, snail shell – how do these things and ideas impact the new collection?
Actually the owl and shell (it’s a mollusk) are there just as general mood images – I often have images piled up and all over the walls, just to aid the dreaming! But in a more focused mindset it’s just the collection images. For AW14 I was looking at cages, birds, palaces in India, in particular an old ruined Maharaja’s palace I visited in my gap year- and the idea of Grace Jones roaming through the palace with birds flying in and out of the ruins. I’m always taken with the juxtaposing strength against something more delicate or falling apart. There’s always a bit of an imaginary landscape in my concepts but also I imagine a character in a film and draw inspiration from what I perceive they will do and feel.

Vita Gottlieb AW 2014 colour sketches

Vita-Gottlieb-AW-14-sketches

Sketches by Vita Gottlieb.

You’re showing at Fashion Scout for the first time, how did this come about and what are you most nervous about?
I applied and got in! It’s so great to get to show with Fashion Scout as they support really innovative designers who go onto do big things in the industry, so it’s very exciting. At the moment the studio is quite relaxed as the collection is done, but we’re planning all the practical tasks before the show – casting, music, accessories, etc, plus organising sales documentation and planning some trade shows, also finalising production and deliveries for SS14 – the business side of things are always more nerve-wracking. I’m a bit nervous of the show though, that’s natural – mainly as it’s the first time as a designer that you see the whole collection worn together, and it’s a bit of a reveal – I just hope it’s coherent.

Vita Gottlieb A/W 2014 by Calamus Chan

Vita Gottlieb A/W 2014 by Calamus Chan.

What can we expect from your upcoming catwalk show?
Hopefully a bit of youthful energy and a strong dynamic.

Vita Gottlieb A/W 2014 by Leah Nelson

Vita Gottlieb A/W 2014 by Leah Nelson.

How have you achieved the technical details of the Caged collection? It sounds very complex!
Some pieces were very complex and technical but quite a lot of the collection is more commercial – I’m really aiming with this collection to break into new markets and territories and for it to do well on the sales side of things. But the fun stuff is always making the press pieces for editorial, you can really get creative and treat the materials in a more purely sculptural, instinctive way – I love that process, it’s one of my favourite parts in a collection’s development.

Vita Gottlieb A/W 2014 by Emma Farrarons

Vita Gottlieb A/W 2014 by Emma Farrarons.

It seems only yesterday that you made the decision to enter the world of fashion and already you are onto your fourth collection… what have you learnt along the way?
So much, mainly about running a business. I ran a production company before and a gallery but both on a really small scale – this industry has taught me a huge amount about management – of people, time, juggling the various departments in the business. And about how to edit, to focus, and remain in the moment with whatever task you’re doing. It’s a huge, huge workload, but I’m learning to compartmentalize more and really hone in on something until it’s done as well as it can be. And I’ve learnt I really need space and time for myself, which is a rarity in this business! So something I’m working on achieving from next season on.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Friday February 14th, 2014 8:37 am

Categories ,AW14, ,Caged, ,Calamus Chan, ,Emma Farrarons, ,Fashion Fringe, ,Fashion Scout, ,Grace Jones, ,Leah Nelson, ,xplusyequals

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