Amelia’s Magazine | À La Disposition: The London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Preview Interview

technology will save us stall
Simian Mobile Disco has made a career of writing sharp, case economic dance tracks. Their release last year of Temporary Pleasures showed that they could still fill up dance floors, and they enlisted the help of some of their musical peers.

New single Cruel Intentions features The Gossip’s Beth Ditto on vocals. Singing over a simple synth loop the minimal sounding track has Ditto’s voice front and centre throughout she is either singing a song about finding love, or losing it. It manages to highlight how effective her singing voice is and why she is so respected within the musical community.

As seems common for dance bands lately the track has a strong 80’s vibe to it but it doesn’t make it sound dated and cheap.  I can imagine dragging myself onto the dance floor during the closing minutes of a club dance and shaking my booze dullened body in time to the beat, and I mean that in the best possible way
A La Disposition SS 2012 by Faye West
A La Disposition S/S 2012 by Faye West.

À La Disposition return to London for their second season at London Fashion Week this September with their S/S 2012 collection mECHANICAL fAILURE, click inspired by the shapes of propellers and the mechanics of flight. Time to find out what keeps American husband and wife team Lynda and Daniel Kinne ticking… and why they’ve decided to make London their new home.

a la disposition mECHANICAL fAILURE by Gareth A Hopkins
À La Disposition mECHANICAL fAILURE by Gareth A Hopkins.
 
Last season we were wowed by À La Disposition for the first time at London Fashion Week – what was the reception like and why have you decided to return for a second time to show in London?
Thank you for the kind compliment. The reception we received was a great one: very warm and well spoken. It has always been a dream of ours to live in London because it is a great source of inspiration, and it is where we received very crucial and formative parts of our training.

A la disposition by Alice Nyong
À La Disposition S/S 2012 by Alice Nyong.

What other things did you discover and fall in love with at LFW?
What is truly unique about London Fashion Week and what we love most is the creative expression, not just the designers but also the people. London has a great mix professionalism and wit. We also find a positive vibe here that is truly its own.
 
A La Disposition by Yelena Bryksenkova
À La Disposition S/S 2012 by Yelena Bryksenkova.

Where is your studio based and what would it look like if I were to pop around for a cup of tea right now?
We are currently looking for a studio in London, or at least we will be after London Fashion Week. We hope to be based near our new home in Southwark. If you were to drop by right now you would find a very industrious scene of somewhat makeshift workstations and busy last minute adjustments. You would be treated to a deep malty cup of Assam taken with little sugar and much milk and nobbly biscuits.

A la disposition by Alice Nyong
À La Disposition S/S 2012 by Alice Nyong.

You are a husband and wife team – what came first? The working together or the romantic relationship? And how do you manage to separate your different work and private lives?
There always was an attraction from the first time we met at fashion school. It developed from a passion about the same things to working together to a passion for one another. There really is no division to our work and personal lives they are so harmoniously intertwined.

A La Disposition by Gilly Rochester LFW Sept 2011
À La Disposition S/S 2012 by Gilly Rochester.
 
For S/S 2012 I believe we can look forward to contrast in the form of voluminous gowns and graphic sternness, with shapes reminiscent of propellers – where did you find the inspiration for this collection and how did you research ideas?
It is always difficult to articulate our inspiration ideas. The collection is a journey which flows from a story Daniel develops as he sketches. This season’s story involved the mechanics of flight. Although we do not research images or ideas for each particular season we have an extensive library of fashion and art books and we are always gathering ideas from everything around us.

À La Disposition S/S 2012 by Alice Nyong
À La Disposition S/S 2012 by Alice Nyong.
 
It sounds as if your colour palette will be as bold as it was last time around – army greens combined with rich yellows and purples. How do you put together a colour range and then source the fabrics or dyes to make this a reality?
This is Lynda’s territory in the brand development. The colour range is developed in conjunction with the fabrics we source as the season organically develops. The punchiness of the colour card, the signature textures and the stripes are all Lynda.

A La Disposition by Gilly Rochester LFW Preview Sept 2011
À La Disposition S/S 2012 by Gilly Rochester.
 
Last season you created a wonderful dual perfume for the show (which I wear quite a lot!) – can we look forward to any other special collaborations for this season?
So glad to hear that you like our perfume {{intangible}}. It has been received very well. There is a smaller version of the perfume in the works to more easily distribute it. We also are working with Anastasia Radevich to design our shoe range again and are very excited about what she has designed for us.

a la disposition mECHANICAL fAILURE shoe by Gareth A Hopkins
a la disposition mECHANICAL fAILURE shoe by Gareth A Hopkins.
 
The styling of last seasons’ show was quite spectacular… you memorably used coloured contacts to give red eyes. Will there be any other surprises in store this season?
There are a few possibilities in the works. As long as it works with the collection we are willing to give it a go.

A La Disposition Dress by Claire Kearns
À La Disposition S/S 2012 by Claire Kearns.

À La Disposition will be showing their S/S 2012 collection on the catwalk on Tuesday 20th September 2011 as part of Fashion Scout.

A La Disposition Outfit by Claire Kearns
À La Disposition S/S 2012 by Claire Kearns.

Categories ,À La Disposition, ,Alice Nyong, ,Anastasia Radevich, ,Claire Kearns, ,Fashion Scout, ,Faye West, ,Gareth A Hopkins, ,Gilly Rochester, ,London Fashion Week, ,Lynda and Daniel Kinne, ,mECHANICAL fAILURE, ,Perfume, ,preview, ,Propellers, ,S/S 2012, ,Yelena Bryksenkova, ,{{intangible}}

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Amelia’s Magazine | Alan Taylor, MAN: London Collections: Men A/W 2014 Catwalk Review


Alan Taylor S/S 2014 by Yelena Bryksenkova

London Collections: Men might be the clumsiest branding known to man, but the MAN show does you no favours either. Not only do you find yourself saying aloud ‘I’m going to the MAN show’, but check out #MAN on Instagram shortly after the collections and you’ll get all sorts of unsavoury images mixed with Bobby Abley‘s pink fur or Craig Green‘s psychedelic prints.

I haven’t seen either of the above nor Alan Taylor‘s actual catwalk presentations before, so I was pretty excited about this showcase of London’s most innovative menswear designers. Irishman Alan Taylor was up first. Since starting his own label in 2011, Taylor the tailor has quickly asserted himself as one to watch.


All photography by Matt Bramford

This particular collection was inspired by Henri Matisse and Taylor’s love affair with modern art is well documented. Irish tweeds became the canvas and bursts of solid fluorescent panels became the art. Enlarged overcoats and blazers created the silhouettes – natural colours maintained Taylor’s commitment to his heritage. Most pieces were modernised with the aforementioned vibrant coloured panels – Matisse-like shapes in green and purple transformed sharp tailoring into unique and contemporary looks. Contrasting pieces like a floor-length black overcoat constructed from a heavy, shimmering fabric peppered the collection.

Taylor’s staple kilts featured alongside contemporary Oxford bags and jackets with a-line hems, proving that elements of womenswear can actually work in menswear without making the wearer look like an utter berk. Finally, zingy fluorescent accessories: leather gloves, bags and shoes, added yet another dimension to this outstanding outing.

Categories ,A/W 2014, ,Alan Taylor, ,catwalk, ,fashion, ,Fashion East, ,LCM, ,LCMAW2014, ,London Collections Men, ,Man, ,matisse, ,menswear, ,review, ,tailoring, ,Yelena Bryksenkova

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Amelia’s Magazine | Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration is OUT NOW!

Willow candle by daria hlazatova
Willow Organic Gold Frankincense and Myrrh candle by Daria Hlazatova.

I don’t know what it is about candles that gets me so excited. I think it has a lot to do with the fact that I love beautiful smells. My house may be a mess but I quite often spritz my office with a sweetly scented room spray or light a candle to imbue a relaxing mood. I think that this is the nub of what is so brilliant about candles, generic link especially the really high quality ones that contain high quantities of essential oils – they are the simplest way to create a delightfully relaxing and cosy feeling within a space.

willow organics candle

And of course Christmas is all about candles. Since I lived in Sweden as a little girl my family has had a tradition of lighting advent candles during the month of December – and whilst I don’t spend much time at my parent’s home anymore, look I always look forward to candlelit dinners when I return for Christmas. Candles impart a certain cosiness which the Danish call “hygge” – and during these bitterly cold dark winter months is most sorely appreciated.

Gold Frankincense and Myrrh candle by Daria Hlazatova
Gold Frankincense and Myrrh candle by Daria Hlazatova.

This year my favourite discovery is the Willow Organic Gold Frankincense and Myrrh candle. It comes beautifully presented in a beribboned fold out box and utilises the naturally healing and calming effects of precious oils that have been synonymous with Christmas since biblical times.

Willow candle box
willow candle box open

From the wonderful scents to the gold leaf that floats glittering in the top of the wax, information pills it doesn’t get more christmassy than this. The Willow Organic shop in Kings Road, Chelsea is open until the 23rd December, so there’s still time to grab a fabulous Christmas candle before the big day.

Cire_Trudon_by_Megan_Piontkowski
Cire Trudon by Megan Piontkowski.

Earlier this year I discovered the French Cire Trudon brand, which has been in operation in various guises since 1643. Alongside very high quality candles presented in beautiful glass pots with heraldic shields, they also produce stunning room sprays in statement bottles and a boxed set containing a room spray, candle and illustrated fairy tale – the idea being to encourage children to enjoy evocative scents from a very young age. Not for the hard up these boxed sets don’t come cheap, but I love the idea and the illustrated booklets are a delight.

Sinbad the Sailor - Fairy Tale Box - Cire Trudon

Recently discovered: the Albam independent menswear clothing store in Spitalfields stocks three yummy varieties of candle, my favourite being the figgy one. When I went in they were also testing out a new scent called Library, which was suitably masculine. Unfortunately I don’t think you can buy these online but it’s definitely worth taking a trip down to this great little store.

Spitalfields Candle Co by ellie sutton
Spitalfields Candle Co and Tocca candles by Ellie Sutton.

There is also the Spitalfields Candle Co. which uses sustainably sourced soya wax in all candles. It was hard to choose my favourite from such a yummy range only briefly sniffed in the Inspitalfields gift store, but I think it has to be Lemon Verbena – I just love that clean bright scent.

Diptyque Candle - The Cloud Commission
Diptyque Candle by The Cloud Commission.

Tocca are a high end scent company that stock in Liberty – I particularly like the sound of the Bianca candle which contains Green Tea and Lemon. Each year the Parisian brand Diptyque creates a special Christmas range, in beautifully decorated coloured glass jars. The Orange Epicee sounds yummy, as does the Canelle.

Jo Malone by Gareth A Hopkins
Jo Malone by Gareth A Hopkins.

Lastly but no means least Jo Malone offers incredibly classy scents, all tastefully presented in cream boxes with crisp branding. The limited edition Pine & Eucalyptus Collection sounds glorious, and how about a giant candle with not one but four wicks to make a major statement?

Right, I’m off to get on with my present wrapping by the scent of my Willow Organic candle. Have a glorious Christmas everyone.

Amelia's Compendium of Fashion-cover

So, pills the book is finally here! You can find it at Tate Modern, about it Magma, Design Museum, Serpentine Gallery, Tatty Devine, Cornerhouse, Arnolfini and many other good independent book stores across the UK and by early 2011 around the world.

Tatty Devine Amelia's Compendium
Harriet of Tatty Devine takes receipt of her copies of Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration.

Amelia's Compendium Magma
On the shelves of Magma.

Or you can buy it online here for a reduced price and receive 12 unique Amelia’s Magazine postcards, plus a selection of bookmarks. This offer is EXCLUSIVE to my website. You can’t get these postcards anywhere else!

Amelia's Compendium postcards
Postcards come free with all orders of Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration made through this website.

The following up and coming fashion illustrators feature in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration:
Abigail Daker, Abby Wright, Amy Martino, Andrea Peterson, Aniela Murphy, Antonia Parker, Bex Glover, Emma Block, Erica Sharp, Faye West, Gemma Milly, Jennifer Costello, Jenny Robins, Jo Cheung, Joana Faria, June Chanpoomidole, Katherine Tromans, Katie Harnett, Kellie Black, Krister Selin, Lesley Barnes, Lisa Stannard, Michelle Urvall Nyren, Naomi Law, Natasha Thompson, Natsuki Otani, Rachel de Ste Croix, Yelena Bryksenkova, Zarina Liew & Gareth A Hopkins.

And…. the book features interviews with the following ethical fashion designers:
123 Bethnal Green Road, Ada Zanditon, Andrea Crews, Anja Hynynen, Beautiful Soul, By Stamo, Camilla Norrback, Christopher Raeburn, Ciel, Dem Collective, Edun, Emesha, Emma Ware, Fifi Bijoux, From Somewhere, Goodone, Gossypium, Henrietta Ludgate, Hetty Rose, Howies, Ivana Basilotta, Izzy Lane, Joanna Cave, Junky Styling, Little Glass Clementine, Lu Flux, Martina Spetlova, Maxjenny, Michelle Lowe-Holder, Minna, Nancy Dee, Nina Dolcetti, Noir, Noki, Oria, Partimi, People Tree, Pia Anjou, Prophetik, Romina Karamanea, Sägen, Satoshi Date, Tara Starlet, Ute Decker & Wilfried Pletzinger

Below are some pages from inside the book – which is the usual riot of colour and pattern for which I have become known. You can also watch a flick video of the book on the website of my international distributor Idea Books here.

Amelia's Compendium of Fashion-sm-From Somewhere
From Somewhere illustrated by Rachel de Ste Croix.

Amelia's Compendium of Fashion-sm-By Stamo
By Stamo illustrated by Krister Selin.

Amelia's Compendium of Fashion-sm-Christopher Raeburn
Christopher Raeburn illustrated by Gemma Milly.

Amelia's Compendium of Fashion-sm-Edun
Edun illustrated by Katherine Tromans.

Amelia's Compendium of Fashion-sm-Dem Collective
Dem Collective illustrated by Michelle Urvall Nyren.

Amelia's Compendium Aniela Murphy
Aniela Murphy’s pages in the content proofs.

Amelia's Compendium Antonia Parker
Antonia Parker’s pages in the content proofs.

Please note that I will not be posting any orders out until the 4th January 2011. Have a very merry Christmas!

Categories ,123, ,123 Bethnal Green Road, ,Abby Wright, ,Abigail Daker, ,Ada Zanditon, ,Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration, ,Amy Martino, ,Andrea Crews, ,Andrea Peterson, ,Aniela Murphy, ,Anja Hynynen, ,Antonia Parker, ,arnolfini, ,Beautiful Soul, ,Bex Glover, ,book, ,Book shop, ,Bookstores, ,By Stamo, ,Camilla Norrback, ,Christopher Raeburn, ,ciel, ,Cornerhouse, ,Dem Collective, ,Design Museum, ,Eco fashion, ,Edun, ,Emesha, ,Emma Block, ,Emma Ware, ,Erica Sharp, ,Ethical Fashion Design, ,Fashion Illustration, ,Faye West, ,Fifi Bijoux, ,From Somewhere, ,Gareth A Hopkins, ,Gemma Milly, ,goodone, ,gossypium, ,Henrietta Ludgate, ,Hetty Rose, ,howies, ,Idea Books, ,illustration, ,Ivana Basilotta, ,Izzy Lane, ,Jennifer Costello, ,Jenny Robins, ,Jo Cheung, ,Joana Faria, ,Joanna Cave, ,June Chanpoomidole, ,Junky Styling, ,Katherine Tromans, ,Katie Harnett, ,Kellie Black, ,Krister Selin, ,Lesley Barnes, ,Lisa Stannard, ,Little Glass Clementine, ,Lu Flux, ,Magma, ,Martina Spetlova, ,Maxjenny, ,Michelle Lowe-Holder, ,Michelle Urvall Nyrén, ,Minna, ,Nancy Dee, ,Naomi Law, ,Natasha Thompson, ,Natsuki Otani, ,Nina Dolcetti, ,noir, ,Noki, ,Oria, ,Partimi, ,People Tree, ,Pia Anjou, ,Prophetik, ,Rachel De Ste. Croix, ,Romina Karamanea, ,Sägen, ,Satoshi Date, ,Serpentine Gallery, ,Tara Starlet, ,Tate Modern, ,Tatty Devine, ,Ute Decker, ,Wilfried Pletzinger, ,Yelena Bryksenkova, ,Zarina Liew

Similar Posts:






Amelia’s Magazine | Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration is OUT NOW!

Willow candle by daria hlazatova
Willow Organic Gold Frankincense and Myrrh candle by Daria Hlazatova.

I don’t know what it is about candles that gets me so excited. I think it has a lot to do with the fact that I love beautiful smells. My house may be a mess but I quite often spritz my office with a sweetly scented room spray or light a candle to imbue a relaxing mood. I think that this is the nub of what is so brilliant about candles, generic link especially the really high quality ones that contain high quantities of essential oils – they are the simplest way to create a delightfully relaxing and cosy feeling within a space.

willow organics candle

And of course Christmas is all about candles. Since I lived in Sweden as a little girl my family has had a tradition of lighting advent candles during the month of December – and whilst I don’t spend much time at my parent’s home anymore, look I always look forward to candlelit dinners when I return for Christmas. Candles impart a certain cosiness which the Danish call “hygge” – and during these bitterly cold dark winter months is most sorely appreciated.

Gold Frankincense and Myrrh candle by Daria Hlazatova
Gold Frankincense and Myrrh candle by Daria Hlazatova.

This year my favourite discovery is the Willow Organic Gold Frankincense and Myrrh candle. It comes beautifully presented in a beribboned fold out box and utilises the naturally healing and calming effects of precious oils that have been synonymous with Christmas since biblical times.

Willow candle box
willow candle box open

From the wonderful scents to the gold leaf that floats glittering in the top of the wax, information pills it doesn’t get more christmassy than this. The Willow Organic shop in Kings Road, Chelsea is open until the 23rd December, so there’s still time to grab a fabulous Christmas candle before the big day.

Cire_Trudon_by_Megan_Piontkowski
Cire Trudon by Megan Piontkowski.

Earlier this year I discovered the French Cire Trudon brand, which has been in operation in various guises since 1643. Alongside very high quality candles presented in beautiful glass pots with heraldic shields, they also produce stunning room sprays in statement bottles and a boxed set containing a room spray, candle and illustrated fairy tale – the idea being to encourage children to enjoy evocative scents from a very young age. Not for the hard up these boxed sets don’t come cheap, but I love the idea and the illustrated booklets are a delight.

Sinbad the Sailor - Fairy Tale Box - Cire Trudon

Recently discovered: the Albam independent menswear clothing store in Spitalfields stocks three yummy varieties of candle, my favourite being the figgy one. When I went in they were also testing out a new scent called Library, which was suitably masculine. Unfortunately I don’t think you can buy these online but it’s definitely worth taking a trip down to this great little store.

Spitalfields Candle Co by ellie sutton
Spitalfields Candle Co and Tocca candles by Ellie Sutton.

There is also the Spitalfields Candle Co. which uses sustainably sourced soya wax in all candles. It was hard to choose my favourite from such a yummy range only briefly sniffed in the Inspitalfields gift store, but I think it has to be Lemon Verbena – I just love that clean bright scent.

Diptyque Candle - The Cloud Commission
Diptyque Candle by The Cloud Commission.

Tocca are a high end scent company that stock in Liberty – I particularly like the sound of the Bianca candle which contains Green Tea and Lemon. Each year the Parisian brand Diptyque creates a special Christmas range, in beautifully decorated coloured glass jars. The Orange Epicee sounds yummy, as does the Canelle.

Jo Malone by Gareth A Hopkins
Jo Malone by Gareth A Hopkins.

Lastly but no means least Jo Malone offers incredibly classy scents, all tastefully presented in cream boxes with crisp branding. The limited edition Pine & Eucalyptus Collection sounds glorious, and how about a giant candle with not one but four wicks to make a major statement?

Right, I’m off to get on with my present wrapping by the scent of my Willow Organic candle. Have a glorious Christmas everyone.

Amelia's Compendium of Fashion-cover

So, pills the book is finally here! You can find it at Tate Modern, about it Magma, Design Museum, Serpentine Gallery, Tatty Devine, Cornerhouse, Arnolfini and many other good independent book stores across the UK and by early 2011 around the world.

Tatty Devine Amelia's Compendium
Harriet of Tatty Devine takes receipt of her copies of Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration.

Amelia's Compendium Magma
On the shelves of Magma.

Or you can buy it online here for a reduced price and receive 12 unique Amelia’s Magazine postcards, plus a selection of bookmarks. This offer is EXCLUSIVE to my website. You can’t get these postcards anywhere else!

Amelia's Compendium postcards
Postcards come free with all orders of Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration made through this website.

The following up and coming fashion illustrators feature in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration:
Abigail Daker, Abby Wright, Amy Martino, Andrea Peterson, Aniela Murphy, Antonia Parker, Bex Glover, Emma Block, Erica Sharp, Faye West, Gemma Milly, Jennifer Costello, Jenny Robins, Jo Cheung, Joana Faria, June Chanpoomidole, Katherine Tromans, Katie Harnett, Kellie Black, Krister Selin, Lesley Barnes, Lisa Stannard, Michelle Urvall Nyren, Naomi Law, Natasha Thompson, Natsuki Otani, Rachel de Ste Croix, Yelena Bryksenkova, Zarina Liew & Gareth A Hopkins.

And…. the book features interviews with the following ethical fashion designers:
123 Bethnal Green Road, Ada Zanditon, Andrea Crews, Anja Hynynen, Beautiful Soul, By Stamo, Camilla Norrback, Christopher Raeburn, Ciel, Dem Collective, Edun, Emesha, Emma Ware, Fifi Bijoux, From Somewhere, Goodone, Gossypium, Henrietta Ludgate, Hetty Rose, Howies, Ivana Basilotta, Izzy Lane, Joanna Cave, Junky Styling, Little Glass Clementine, Lu Flux, Martina Spetlova, Maxjenny, Michelle Lowe-Holder, Minna, Nancy Dee, Nina Dolcetti, Noir, Noki, Oria, Partimi, People Tree, Pia Anjou, Prophetik, Romina Karamanea, Sägen, Satoshi Date, Tara Starlet, Ute Decker & Wilfried Pletzinger

Below are some pages from inside the book – which is the usual riot of colour and pattern for which I have become known. You can also watch a flick video of the book on the website of my international distributor Idea Books here.

Amelia's Compendium of Fashion-sm-From Somewhere
From Somewhere illustrated by Rachel de Ste Croix.

Amelia's Compendium of Fashion-sm-By Stamo
By Stamo illustrated by Krister Selin.

Amelia's Compendium of Fashion-sm-Christopher Raeburn
Christopher Raeburn illustrated by Gemma Milly.

Amelia's Compendium of Fashion-sm-Edun
Edun illustrated by Katherine Tromans.

Amelia's Compendium of Fashion-sm-Dem Collective
Dem Collective illustrated by Michelle Urvall Nyren.

Amelia's Compendium Aniela Murphy
Aniela Murphy’s pages in the content proofs.

Amelia's Compendium Antonia Parker
Antonia Parker’s pages in the content proofs.

Please note that I will not be posting any orders out until the 4th January 2011. Have a very merry Christmas!

Categories ,123, ,123 Bethnal Green Road, ,Abby Wright, ,Abigail Daker, ,Ada Zanditon, ,Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration, ,Amy Martino, ,Andrea Crews, ,Andrea Peterson, ,Aniela Murphy, ,Anja Hynynen, ,Antonia Parker, ,arnolfini, ,Beautiful Soul, ,Bex Glover, ,book, ,Book shop, ,Bookstores, ,By Stamo, ,Camilla Norrback, ,Christopher Raeburn, ,ciel, ,Cornerhouse, ,Dem Collective, ,Design Museum, ,Eco fashion, ,Edun, ,Emesha, ,Emma Block, ,Emma Ware, ,Erica Sharp, ,Ethical Fashion Design, ,Fashion Illustration, ,Faye West, ,Fifi Bijoux, ,From Somewhere, ,Gareth A Hopkins, ,Gemma Milly, ,goodone, ,gossypium, ,Henrietta Ludgate, ,Hetty Rose, ,howies, ,Idea Books, ,illustration, ,Ivana Basilotta, ,Izzy Lane, ,Jennifer Costello, ,Jenny Robins, ,Jo Cheung, ,Joana Faria, ,Joanna Cave, ,June Chanpoomidole, ,Junky Styling, ,Katherine Tromans, ,Katie Harnett, ,Kellie Black, ,Krister Selin, ,Lesley Barnes, ,Lisa Stannard, ,Little Glass Clementine, ,Lu Flux, ,Magma, ,Martina Spetlova, ,Maxjenny, ,Michelle Lowe-Holder, ,Michelle Urvall Nyrén, ,Minna, ,Nancy Dee, ,Naomi Law, ,Natasha Thompson, ,Natsuki Otani, ,Nina Dolcetti, ,noir, ,Noki, ,Oria, ,Partimi, ,People Tree, ,Pia Anjou, ,Prophetik, ,Rachel De Ste. Croix, ,Romina Karamanea, ,Sägen, ,Satoshi Date, ,Serpentine Gallery, ,Tara Starlet, ,Tate Modern, ,Tatty Devine, ,Ute Decker, ,Wilfried Pletzinger, ,Yelena Bryksenkova, ,Zarina Liew

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Amelia’s Magazine | Bernhard Chandran: London Fashion Week S/S 2013 Catwalk Review

Bernard Chandran by Claire Kearns
Bernard Chandran S/S 2013 by Claire Kearns.

Bernhard Chandran showed his S/S 2013 collection in the upper rooms of Freemasons’ Hall: my least favourite catwalk venue as the lighting can be so very tricky to take decent photos.

Bernhard Chandran SS 2013 photography by Amelia Gregory
Bernhard Chandran SS 2013 photography by Amelia Gregory
Chandran‘s trademark timeless elegance was channeled into a collection based on the dualistic nature of love. In garment form this found its expression in a series of outfits that seemed one thing from the front and quite often totally different when viewed from the back. This was cleverly achieved through the use of different fabrics, lengths and cuts.

Bernhard Chandran SS 2013 photography by Amelia Gregory
Bernhard Chandran SS 2013 photography by Amelia Gregory
The show opened with a series of textured white dresses, some austere, others embellished, satin-ised, or worn with trench coat styled sleeve detailing and front panels. Heavily cinched hourglass waists happily co-existed with flared shifts, and a white swing dress with arm cut outs and large capped sleeves screamed sexy nurse, as did tabard like front flaps tied tight like hospital aprons.

Bernhard Chandran SS 2013 photography by Amelia Gregory
Bernhard Chandran SS 2013 photography by Amelia Gregory
Winged eye make up used to accentuate the brows echoed a jagged zebra print, and a cute sequinned triangle print was manipulated into multiple design forms: shorts suit, blouse, more elegant dresses. Bubblegum pink turned to reveal a stunning cobalt blue back panel encrusted with gold beads, whilst silky deep aubergine offered an alternative summer colourway. Continuing on a seasonal theme plasticised dress coats were accessorised with large plastic totes that would be perfect on the beach.

Bernhard Chandran SS 2013 photography by Amelia Gregory
Bernhard Chandran SS 2013 photography by Amelia Gregory
Bernhard Chandran S/S 2013. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

In this super long show there were probably a few too many iterations of key shapes, the patchwork cut and paste feel applied to every possible fabric combination and colourway, but at least this will ensure that watching buyers will be able to choose from every conceivable garment form.

Bernard Chandran S/S 2013 by Geiko Louve
Bernard Chandran S/S 2013 by Geiko Louve.

Categories ,Bernhard Chandran, ,Claire Kearns, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Geiko Louve, ,S/S 2013

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Amelia’s Magazine | Think Act Vote presents The Future We Choose Pop Up Radical Think Tank and Book Launch Party

Think Act Vote The Future We Choose Book Launch stack of books

On the 25th of July I had the pleasure of attending – unfortunately only a part of – the launch event organised by Think Act Vote (?!X) at The Arch Gallery for their new book titled The Future We Choose. This book project was initiated by Think Act Vote (?!X) in order to create a new conversation around democracy and how we create the future we choose. Revolving around ‘The Futures Interview’, The Future We Choose brings together over 200 forward thinking voices from the general public mixed in with those more well known, from fashion designers to historians, campaigners to presenters, all of whom share their vision of the world they want to live in with their ideas of how to create it.

Think Act Vote The Future We Choose Book Launch Amy at the book stand

Think Act Vote (?!X) is run by a powerhouse of volunteers, interns (such as Amy Haworth Johns pictured above) and a vibrant community of collaborators and supporters. The Future We Choose has been brought to life through the work of all those contributors, while the design of the book was devised also collaboratively by a team made up of Joana Casaca Lemos, Ella Britton, Matthieu Becker and Amisha Ghadiali.

Think Act Vote The Future We Choose Book Launch Amelia Gregory Quote

In the book one can find hugely inspiring quotes by the numerous contributors who completed ‘The Futures Interview’, categorised into Thinks, Acts and Votes. Here is one by Amelia’s Magazine editor Amelia Gregory.

Think Act Vote The Future We Choose Book Launch illustrations spread 1

Think Act Vote The Future We Choose Book Launch illustrations spread 2

Since early 2010, when Think Act Vote (?!X) started compiling responses from ‘The Futures Interview’ participants, it invited 50 different artists to bring words from the interviews to life and selected 52 final illustrations. A large number of these images have been created by illustrators who regularly contribute to Amelia’s Magazine too! Some of them are Abby Wright, Abi Daker, Ailish Sullivan, Antonia Makes, Alison Day, Amber Cassidy, Bryone Crane, Claire Kearns, Celine Elliott, Erica Sharp, Faye West, Gemma Sheldrake, Gilly Rochester, Harriet Gray, Jo Cheung, June Chanpoomidole, Jenny Robins, Katie Harnett, Laura Frame, Yelena Bryksenkova, Luke Waller, Michelle Urvall Nyrén, Nanae Kawahara, Natalia Nazimek, Natalie Hughes, Sam Parr, Vicky Ink aka Vicky Fallon and Slowly The Eggs aka moi… A lot of the illustrations appear in the book, as seen above, but Think Act Vote (?!X) is also sharing them online, one every week of 2012, this way gradually creating an illustrated Futures Calendar! You can also see all the illustrations together in this online gallery.

Think Act Vote The Future We Choose Book Launch spread from book

Think Act Vote The Future We Choose Book Launch bit from Futures Interview

You can take part in ‘The Futures Interview’ here.

Think Act Vote The Future We Choose Book Launch Peter Gregson

The Future We Choose book launch at The Arch Gallery was split into an afternoon pop up radical think tank, featuring a selection of contributors including Lucie Barat, Ed Gillespie, Annegret Affolderback, Emily Wilkie, Melissa Sterry, Chris Arnold and Olivia Sprinkel each speaking for five minutes on an idea they shared in the book. When I arrived Peter Gregson, pictured above, was giving a talk on ‘Defending Your Tastes’.

Think Act Vote The Future We Choose Book Launch Paul Hilder

Paul Hilder on ‘Making Things Right’.

Think Act Vote The Future We Choose Book Launch Amisha Ghadiali

Amisha Ghadiali on her Rules to Dress By.

Think Act Vote The Future We Choose Book Launch Alan Wolfson

Performance Poetry by Alan Wolfson.

Think Act Vote The Future We Choose Book Launch Michael Norton

Michael Norton on 365 Ways To Change The World. This hugely inspiring man also talked about another splendid book he has written titled Click 2 Change, in which you can find ways to change the world from the comfort of your seat.

Think Act Vote The Future We Choose Book Launch Jessi Baker

Jessi Baker on ‘Data and Visualisation’.

Think Act Vote The Future We Choose Book Launch Christina Rebel

Christina Rebel on ‘Empathy’.

Think Act Vote The Future We Choose Book Launch Spencer Maybe Pearce

Music from Spencer Maybe Pearce.

Think Act Vote The Future We Choose Book Launch happy audience

Think Act Vote The Future We Choose Book Launch Zoe and Amisha in the audience

Think Act Vote The Future We Choose Book Launch Interviews workshop 1

Think Act Vote The Future We Choose Book Launch Interviews workshop 2

The talks were followed by a ‘A Futures Interviews Workshop’, during which we sat in groups to talk about Thinks, Acts and Votes.

Think Act Vote The Future We Choose Book Launch Zoe Robinson

The lovely Zoe Robinson of Think Style and The Good Wardrobe among the attendees.

Think Act Vote The Future We Choose Book Launch Amisha signing a book

From 6.30pm there was a party featuring a collective book reading, words from Sam Roddick and live music from cellist Peter Gregson, folk noir band Delirium Tremens and electro pop songstress Sharliza Jelita.

The book is now on sale through Think Act Vote’s etsy store, where you can purchase the limited edition that has been printed in the UK on recycled paper. You can request to have your copy signed and personalised too. The Hardback and e-book editions will be available in Autumn. If you would like to request an e-version review copy, please e-mail info@thinkactvote.org

You can also read Part One and part Two of an interview Sally Mumby-Croft did a while ago for Amelia’s Magazine with Think Act Vote’s founder Amisha Ghadiali.

All photography by Maria Papadimitriou

Categories ,Abby Wright, ,Abi Daker, ,ACOFI, ,Ailish Sullivan, ,Alan Wolfson, ,Alison Day, ,Amber Cassidy, ,Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration, ,Amisha Ghadiali, ,Annegret Affolderback, ,Antonia Makes, ,book launch, ,Bryone Crane, ,Celine Elliott, ,Chris Arnold, ,Christina Rebel, ,Claire Kearns, ,Delirium Tremens, ,Ed Gillespie, ,Ella Britton, ,Emily Wilkie, ,Erica Sharp, ,Faye West, ,Futures Interview, ,Gemma Sheldrake, ,Gilly Rochester, ,Harriet Gray, ,illustration, ,Jenny Robins, ,Jessi Baker, ,Jo Cheung, ,Joana Casaca Lemos, ,Jonathan Bartley, ,June Chanpoomidole, ,Katie Harnett, ,Laura Frame, ,Lucie Barat, ,Lucy Gilliam, ,Luke Waller, ,Maria Papadimitriou, ,Matthieu Becker, ,Melissa Sterry, ,Michael Norton, ,Michelle Urvall Nyrén, ,Nanae Kawahara, ,Natalia Nazimek, ,Olivia Sprinkel, ,Patrick Hussy, ,Paul Hilder, ,Peter Gregson, ,Sally Mumby-Croft, ,Sam Parr, ,Sam Roddick, ,Sharliza Jelita, ,Slowly the Eggs, ,Spencer Maybe Pearce, ,The Arch Gallery, ,The Future We Choose, ,Think Act Vote, ,Vicky Fallon, ,Vicky Ink, ,Yelena Bryksenkova, ,Zoë Robinson

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Amelia’s Magazine | Akamuti: natural organic skincare from Wales

[IMAGE] Reeds

Laura Ward has both striking portraits and moody black and white landscapes in her portfolio, viagra but what initially drew me to her work was her‘mirror’ set on Flickr. It’s a very low-key selection of random and sometimes a bit blurry shots, more about taken in a plethora of shiny surfaces. The photographer is always in the picture, generic half-hidden behind the camera, and you can practically hear her going ‘ooooh, shiny!’ as she goes for a quick snap in a car mirror, shop window or water-stained bathroom.

But don’t get me wrong – Laura takes ‘proper’ photos too. This includes some really excellent portraits, skillful and professional but always with a slight quirk. Then there are the airy landscapes and the soft, abstracts shots of female figures, not to mention the surprising plays with layers and light. Laura’s long list of previous exhibitions, past, present and future, demonstrates that this girl isn’t just talented, she also has drive and passion in spades. I think we will be hearing more from Laura – lots more.

[IMAGE] Self-portrait (2)

Your new exhibition with photography group Effra FC is showing now in Camberwell. Tell us a little about Effra please.

Effra FC is a South London collective of photographers, with varying levels of skill and styles, who meet once a month in a local pub. Over the last few years it’s grown from a handful of strangers into a 90+ group. Effra has favoured low-fi (ie free) techniques to show work in the past. Mark from Sun & Doves invited us to put on our first professional show and 16 members opted in. It’s a wonderfully eclectic group of people who don’t take Effra FC too seriously. I think that is what makes it work. I’m really proud to be a part of it.

[IMAGE]
Ponies, on show now with Effra.

Effra started as a Flickr group. It seems to me everyone who uses Flickr adores this site. What is it about this site that resonnates so strongly with its users?

The simplicity of Flickr is one of the reasons that we’re all photographers now. I remember the excitement of taking my pictures out of a static website and having this new interactive audience at my fingertips. Having strangers comment on your work is a thrill. It’s also a huge source of inspiration and reference as it’s saturated with so many impressive photographers and ideas.
[IMAGE] Self-portrait (1)

Your CV of photography exhibitions is impressive. Could you tell us about a favourite project please?

Thank you. I tend to favour projects that take me out of my comfort zone. That said, my favourite project is one called ‘Unthought’. I work on images collaboratively with Belgian photographer Stefan Vanthuyne. We don’t discuss how we do it and quite often it doesn’t work, but that is part of the process. Photography can be very isolating, so ‘Unthought’ is a very happy friendship. I also worked on ‘The Apollo Project’ with Jonny Hughes where we took over a shop for a month and turned it into an art/music venue. I could write a book about that month, so that was definitely significant. As soon as those doors opened, it belonged to the community.

[IMAGE] Unthought

Your previous show was the group exhibition ‘Send me a postcard darling’. What was the thought behind this, and how did you get the enchanting Melissa Auf Der Maur to participate?

I decided to book The Red Gate gallery in south London with the aim of doing something similar to shows in Nottingham and New York. SMAPD evolved into its own little thing thanks to the people that got involved. Postcards are such an accessible format for everyone to produce but it’s a size that can challenge you. A couple of established artists commented on how difficult the format was to work with. I remember seeing one of Melissa’s photographs many years ago which I was really drawn to. It was a self portrait called something like ‘When I’m sad, my nose bleeds’. She’s so supportive of creative projects like this so I just asked her. Having established artists like Melissa Auf der Maur, Chad Van Gaalen and John Riordan means more people might come along and take a look at the work of home studio heroes.

[IMAGE] Autumn

Is there a new project coming up which you can tell us about?

I’ve started planning a new project which is partly inspired by the film ‘The Double Life of Véronique’. At the moment it’s a portrait series of 10 people who lead double lives, or those who do one thing to fund something else. I’m really interested in layers and mystique in subjects and they’ll probably be multi-exposed. I’m also hoping that 2011 takes me out of my comfort zone, which is why I’m taking part in Sonny Malhotra’s ProAm Project.

You have an international background. Do you consider London your home? How does taking photos around London compare with photographing other places?

I’m 32 now and having lived in so many places, I can make anywhere feel like home but London is the one place I feel comfortable. I like diversity, uncertainty and the fact that I have friends from all over the world in the same place. I live in Herne Hill which is a wonderfully friendly little melting pot of the best of all worlds and I can’t help but take photographs of it. That said, I need to get out of it fairly regularly to be able to appreciate it. I’ve done very little London life photography this year and I’d like to get back into it.

[IMAGE] She makes war

Your website and Flickr stream has an impressively wide range of photos and styles. You have these amazing, intense portraits as well as the really fun, playful stuff. What kind of photography is your favourite?

I’ll take photographs of almost anything I prefer an element of surprise and untidiness. I don’t really favour studio lighting, and I try not to plan too much. My favourite kind of picture is a soft abstract female shot. I love Francesca Woodman’s work so if I could take more images akin to hers, I’d be happy. Though I’d never want to rip her off.

I really love the set of pictures taken in mirrors and shiny surfaces – I have one of these myself! But tell me, what’s the deal with these pictures?

It’s the depth, layers and the light! Puddles, mirrors, windows are so much fun. Taking photographs through layers is also great, whether it’s a layer of plastic, water, and even cling film. Despite having photoshop, I use these pre-digital techniques all the time.

[IMAGE] Mirrored

How did you get into photography? What is it you love about it?

I have absolutely no formal training. I started in my teens when my parents allowed me to go travelling to Italy on my own and my dad gave me a Pentax. I was still hoping to be a decent writer back then, but I quickly realised that taking pictures was much easier. I can never find the right words.

What do you do when you’re not taking pictures?

I’ve worked for charities for many years now. My day job is very much focused on numbers and organising – analysis, strategies, reporting, reconciliation and fulfilling appeals. I definitely get a kick out of working both sides of my brain but it’s not easy managing creative projects and having a day job. Having said that, I don’t think I could do one without the other.

Laura Ward’s work is showing now with Effra FC – on until 25 January at the Sun and Doves in Camberwell, 61-63 Coldharbour Lane, London SE5.

Laura Ward Reeds
Reeds

Laura Ward has both striking portraits and moody black and white landscapes in her portfolio, find but what initially drew me to her work was her‘mirror’ set on Flickr. It’s a very low-key selection of random and sometimes a bit blurry shots, ampoule taken in a plethora of shiny surfaces. The photographer is always in the picture, troche half-hidden behind the camera, and you can practically hear her going ‘ooooh, shiny!’ as she goes for a quick snap in a car mirror, shop window or water-stained bathroom.

But don’t get me wrong – Laura takes ‘proper’ photos too. This includes some really excellent portraits, skillful and professional but always with a slight quirk. Then there are the airy landscapes and the soft, abstracts shots of female figures, not to mention the surprising plays with layers and light. Laura’s long list of previous exhibitions, past, present and future, demonstrates that this girl isn’t just talented, she also has drive and passion in spades. I think we will be hearing more from Laura – lots more.

Laura Ward Self 2
Self-portrait

Your new exhibition with photography group Effra FC is showing now in Camberwell. Tell us a little about Effra please.
Effra FC is a South London collective of photographers, with varying levels of skill and styles, who meet once a month in a local pub. Over the last few years it’s grown from a handful of strangers into a 90+ group. Effra has favoured low-fi (ie free) techniques to show work in the past. Mark from Sun and Doves invited us to put on our first professional show and 16 members opted in. It’s a wonderfully eclectic group of people who don’t take Effra FC too seriously. I think that is what makes it work. I’m really proud to be a part of it.

Laura Ward Ponies Effra FC
Ponies, on show now with Effra.

Effra started as a Flickr group. It seems to me everyone who uses Flickr adores this site. What is it about this site that resonnates so strongly with its users?
The simplicity of Flickr is one of the reasons that we’re all photographers now. I remember the excitement of taking my pictures out of a static website and having this new interactive audience at my fingertips. Having strangers comment on your work is a thrill. It’s also a huge source of inspiration and reference as it’s saturated with so many impressive photographers and ideas.

Laura Ward Self 1
Self-portrait

Your CV of photography exhibitions is impressive. Could you tell us about a favourite project please?
Thank you. I tend to favour projects that take me out of my comfort zone. That said, my favourite project is one called ‘Unthought’. I work on images collaboratively with Belgian photographer Stefan Vanthuyne. We don’t discuss how we do it and quite often it doesn’t work, but that is part of the process. Photography can be very isolating, so ‘Unthought’ is a very happy friendship. I also worked on ‘The Apollo Project’ with Jonny Hughes where we took over a shop for a month and turned it into an art/music venue. I could write a book about that month, so that was definitely significant. As soon as those doors opened, it belonged to the community.

Laura Ward Unthought
Unthought

Your previous show was the group exhibition ‘Send me a postcard darling’. What was the thought behind this, and how did you get the enchanting Melissa Auf Der Maur to participate?
I decided to book The Red Gate gallery in south London with the aim of doing something similar to shows in Nottingham and New York. SMAPD evolved into its own little thing thanks to the people that got involved. Postcards are such an accessible format for everyone to produce but it’s a size that can challenge you. A couple of established artists commented on how difficult the format was to work with. I remember seeing one of Melissa’s photographs many years ago which I was really drawn to. It was a self portrait called something like ‘When I’m sad, my nose bleeds’. She’s so supportive of creative projects like this so I just asked her. Having established artists like Melissa Auf der Maur, Chad Van Gaalen and John Riordan means more people might come along and take a look at the work of home studio heroes.

Laura Ward Autumn
Autumn

Is there a new project coming up which you can tell us about?
I’ve started planning a new project which is partly inspired by the film ‘The Double Life of Véronique’. At the moment it’s a portrait series of 10 people who lead double lives, or those who do one thing to fund something else. I’m really interested in layers and mystique in subjects and they’ll probably be multi-exposed. I’m also hoping that 2011 takes me out of my comfort zone, which is why I’m taking part in Sonny Malhotra’s ProAm Project.

You have an international background. Do you consider London your home? How does taking photos around London compare with photographing other places?
I’m 32 now and having lived in so many places, I can make anywhere feel like home but London is the one place I feel comfortable. I like diversity, uncertainty and the fact that I have friends from all over the world in the same place. I live in Herne Hill which is a wonderfully friendly little melting pot of the best of all worlds and I can’t help but take photographs of it. That said, I need to get out of it fairly regularly to be able to appreciate it. I’ve done very little London life photography this year and I’d like to get back into it.

Laura Ward She Makes War
She Makes War

Your website and Flickr stream has an impressively wide range of photos and styles. You have these amazing, intense portraits as well as the really fun, playful stuff. What kind of photography is your favourite?
I’ll take photographs of almost anything I prefer an element of surprise and untidiness. I don’t really favour studio lighting, and I try not to plan too much. My favourite kind of picture is a soft abstract female shot. I love Francesca Woodman’s work so if I could take more images akin to hers, I’d be happy. Though I’d never want to rip her off.

I really love the set of pictures taken in mirrors and shiny surfaces! But tell me, what’s the deal with these pictures?
It’s the depth, layers and the light! Puddles, mirrors, windows are so much fun. Taking photographs through layers is also great, whether it’s a layer of plastic, water, and even cling film. Despite having photoshop, I use these pre-digital techniques all the time.

Laura Ward Mirrored
Mirrored

How did you get into photography? What is it you love about it?
I have absolutely no formal training. I started in my teens when my parents allowed me to go travelling to Italy on my own and my dad gave me a Pentax. I was still hoping to be a decent writer back then, but I quickly realised that taking pictures was much easier. I can never find the right words.

What do you do when you’re not taking pictures?
I’ve worked for charities for many years now. My day job is very much focused on numbers and organising – analysis, strategies, reporting, reconciliation and fulfilling appeals. I definitely get a kick out of working both sides of my brain but it’s not easy managing creative projects and having a day job. Having said that, I don’t think I could do one without the other.

Laura Ward’s work is showing now with Effra FC – on until 25 January at the Sun and Doves in Camberwell, 61-63 Coldharbour Lane, London SE5.
Laura Ward Reeds
Reeds

Laura Ward has both striking portraits and moody black and white landscapes in her portfolio, side effects but what initially drew me to her work was her‘mirror’ set on Flickr. It’s a very low-key selection of random and sometimes a bit blurry shots, taken in a plethora of shiny surfaces. The photographer is always in the picture, half-hidden behind the camera, and you can practically hear her going ‘ooooh, shiny!’ as she goes for a quick snap in a car mirror, shop window or water-stained bathroom.

But don’t get me wrong – Laura takes ‘proper’ photos too. This includes some really excellent portraits, skillful and professional but always with a slight quirk. Then there are the airy landscapes and the soft, abstracts shots of female figures, not to mention the surprising plays with layers and light. Laura’s long list of previous exhibitions, past, present and future, demonstrates that this girl isn’t just talented, she also has drive and passion in spades. I think we will be hearing more from Laura – lots more.

Laura Ward Self 2
Self-portrait

Your new exhibition with photography group Effra FC is showing now in Camberwell. Tell us a little about Effra please.
Effra FC is a South London collective of photographers, with varying levels of skill and styles, who meet once a month in a local pub. Over the last few years it’s grown from a handful of strangers into a 90+ group. Effra has favoured low-fi (ie free) techniques to show work in the past. Mark from Sun and Doves invited us to put on our first professional show and 16 members opted in. It’s a wonderfully eclectic group of people who don’t take Effra FC too seriously. I think that is what makes it work. I’m really proud to be a part of it.

Laura Ward Ponies Effra FC
Ponies, on show now with Effra.

Effra started as a Flickr group. It seems to me everyone who uses Flickr adores this site. What is it about this site that resonnates so strongly with its users?
The simplicity of Flickr is one of the reasons that we’re all photographers now. I remember the excitement of taking my pictures out of a static website and having this new interactive audience at my fingertips. Having strangers comment on your work is a thrill. It’s also a huge source of inspiration and reference as it’s saturated with so many impressive photographers and ideas.

Laura Ward Self 1
Self-portrait

Your CV of photography exhibitions is impressive. Could you tell us about a favourite project please?
Thank you. I tend to favour projects that take me out of my comfort zone. That said, my favourite project is one called ‘Unthought’. I work on images collaboratively with Belgian photographer Stefan Vanthuyne. We don’t discuss how we do it and quite often it doesn’t work, but that is part of the process. Photography can be very isolating, so ‘Unthought’ is a very happy friendship. I also worked on ‘The Apollo Project’ with Jonny Hughes where we took over a shop for a month and turned it into an art/music venue. I could write a book about that month, so that was definitely significant. As soon as those doors opened, it belonged to the community.

Laura Ward Unthought
Unthought

Your previous show was the group exhibition ‘Send me a postcard darling’. What was the thought behind this, and how did you get the enchanting Melissa Auf Der Maur to participate?
I decided to book The Red Gate gallery in south London with the aim of doing something similar to shows in Nottingham and New York. SMAPD evolved into its own little thing thanks to the people that got involved. Postcards are such an accessible format for everyone to produce but it’s a size that can challenge you. A couple of established artists commented on how difficult the format was to work with. I remember seeing one of Melissa’s photographs many years ago which I was really drawn to. It was a self portrait called something like ‘When I’m sad, my nose bleeds’. She’s so supportive of creative projects like this so I just asked her. Having established artists like Melissa Auf der Maur, Chad Van Gaalen and John Riordan means more people might come along and take a look at the work of home studio heroes.

Laura Ward Autumn
Autumn

Is there a new project coming up which you can tell us about?
I’ve started planning a new project which is partly inspired by the film ‘The Double Life of Véronique’. At the moment it’s a portrait series of 10 people who lead double lives, or those who do one thing to fund something else. I’m really interested in layers and mystique in subjects and they’ll probably be multi-exposed. I’m also hoping that 2011 takes me out of my comfort zone, which is why I’m taking part in Sonny Malhotra’s ProAm Project.

You have an international background. Do you consider London your home? How does taking photos around London compare with photographing other places?
I’m 32 now and having lived in so many places, I can make anywhere feel like home but London is the one place I feel comfortable. I like diversity, uncertainty and the fact that I have friends from all over the world in the same place. I live in Herne Hill which is a wonderfully friendly little melting pot of the best of all worlds and I can’t help but take photographs of it. That said, I need to get out of it fairly regularly to be able to appreciate it. I’ve done very little London life photography this year and I’d like to get back into it.

Laura Ward She Makes War
She Makes War

Your website and Flickr stream has an impressively wide range of photos and styles. You have these amazing, intense portraits as well as the really fun, playful stuff. What kind of photography is your favourite?
I’ll take photographs of almost anything I prefer an element of surprise and untidiness. I don’t really favour studio lighting, and I try not to plan too much. My favourite kind of picture is a soft abstract female shot. I love Francesca Woodman’s work so if I could take more images akin to hers, I’d be happy. Though I’d never want to rip her off.

I really love the set of pictures taken in mirrors and shiny surfaces! But tell me, what’s the deal with these pictures?
It’s the depth, layers and the light! Puddles, mirrors, windows are so much fun. Taking photographs through layers is also great, whether it’s a layer of plastic, water, and even cling film. Despite having photoshop, I use these pre-digital techniques all the time.

Laura Ward Mirrored
Mirrored

How did you get into photography? What is it you love about it?
I have absolutely no formal training. I started in my teens when my parents allowed me to go travelling to Italy on my own and my dad gave me a Pentax. I was still hoping to be a decent writer back then, but I quickly realised that taking pictures was much easier. I can never find the right words.

What do you do when you’re not taking pictures?
I’ve worked for charities for many years now. My day job is very much focused on numbers and organising – analysis, strategies, reporting, reconciliation and fulfilling appeals. I definitely get a kick out of working both sides of my brain but it’s not easy managing creative projects and having a day job. Having said that, I don’t think I could do one without the other.

Laura Ward’s work is showing now with Effra FC – on until 25 January at the Sun and Doves in Camberwell, 61-63 Coldharbour Lane, London SE5.
Laura Ward Reeds
Reeds

Laura Ward has both striking portraits and moody black and white landscapes in her portfolio, order but what initially drew me to her work was her ‘mirror’ set on Flickr. It’s a very low-key selection of random and sometimes a bit blurry shots, taken in a plethora of shiny surfaces. The photographer is always in the picture, half-hidden behind the camera, and you can practically hear her going ‘ooooh, shiny!’ as she goes for a quick snap in a car mirror, shop window or water-stained bathroom.

But don’t get me wrong – Laura takes ‘proper’ photos too. This includes some really excellent portraits, skillful and professional but always with a slight quirk. Then there are the airy landscapes and the soft, abstracts shots of female figures, not to mention the surprising plays with layers and light. Laura’s list of exhibitions, past, present and future, demonstrates that this girl isn’t just talented, she also has drive and passion in spades. I think we will be hearing more from Laura – lots more.

Laura Ward Self 2
Self-portrait

Your new exhibition with photography group Effra FC is showing now in Camberwell. Tell us a little about Effra please.
Effra FC is a South London collective of photographers, with varying levels of skill and styles, who meet once a month in a local pub. Over the last few years it’s grown from a handful of strangers into a 90+ group. Effra has favoured low-fi (ie free) techniques to show work in the past. Mark from Sun and Doves invited us to put on our first professional show and 16 members opted in. It’s a wonderfully eclectic group of people who don’t take Effra FC too seriously. I think that is what makes it work. I’m really proud to be a part of it.

Laura Ward Ponies Effra FC
Ponies, on show now with Effra.

Effra started as a Flickr group. It seems to me everyone who uses Flickr adores this site. What is it about this site that resonnates so strongly with its users?
The simplicity of Flickr is one of the reasons that we’re all photographers now. I remember the excitement of taking my pictures out of a static website and having this new interactive audience at my fingertips. Having strangers comment on your work is a thrill. It’s also a huge source of inspiration and reference as it’s saturated with so many impressive photographers and ideas.

Laura Ward Self 1
Self-portrait

Your CV of photography exhibitions is impressive. Could you tell us about a favourite project please?
Thank you. I tend to favour projects that take me out of my comfort zone. That said, my favourite project is one called ‘Unthought’. I work on images collaboratively with Belgian photographer Stefan Vanthuyne. We don’t discuss how we do it and quite often it doesn’t work, but that is part of the process. Photography can be very isolating, so ‘Unthought’ is a very happy friendship. I also worked on ‘The Apollo Project’ with Jonny Hughes where we took over a shop for a month and turned it into an art/music venue. I could write a book about that month, so that was definitely significant. As soon as those doors opened, it belonged to the community.

Laura Ward Unthought
Unthought

Your previous show was the group exhibition ‘Send me a postcard darling’. What was the thought behind this, and how did you get the enchanting Melissa Auf Der Maur to participate?
I decided to book The Red Gate gallery in South London with the aim of doing something similar to shows in Nottingham and New York. SMAPD evolved into its own little thing thanks to the people that got involved. Postcards are such an accessible format for everyone to produce but it’s a size that can challenge you. A couple of established artists commented on how difficult the format was to work with. I remember seeing one of Melissa’s photographs many years ago which I was really drawn to. It was a self portrait called something like ‘When I’m sad, my nose bleeds’. She’s so supportive of creative projects like this so I just asked her. Having established artists like Melissa Auf der Maur, Chad Van Gaalen and John Riordan means more people might come along and take a look at the work of home studio heroes.

Laura Ward Autumn
Autumn

Is there a new project coming up which you can tell us about?
I’ve started planning a new project which is partly inspired by the film ‘The Double Life of Véronique’. At the moment it’s a portrait series of 10 people who lead double lives, or those who do one thing to fund something else. I’m really interested in layers and mystique in subjects and they’ll probably be multi-exposed. I’m also hoping that 2011 takes me out of my comfort zone, which is why I’m taking part in Sonny Malhotra’s ProAm Project.

You have an international background. Do you consider London your home? How does taking photos around London compare with photographing other places?
I’m 32 now and having lived in so many places, I can make anywhere feel like home but London is the one place I feel comfortable. I like diversity, uncertainty and the fact that I have friends from all over the world in the same place. I live in Herne Hill which is a wonderfully friendly little melting pot of the best of all worlds and I can’t help but take photographs of it. That said, I need to get out of it fairly regularly to be able to appreciate it. I’ve done very little London life photography this year and I’d like to get back into it.

Laura Ward She Makes War
She Makes War

Your website and Flickr stream has an impressively wide range of photos and styles. You have these amazing, intense portraits as well as the really fun, playful stuff. What kind of photography is your favourite?
I’ll take photographs of almost anything I prefer an element of surprise and untidiness. I don’t really favour studio lighting, and I try not to plan too much. My favourite kind of picture is a soft abstract female shot. I love Francesca Woodman’s work so if I could take more images akin to hers, I’d be happy. Though I’d never want to rip her off.

I really love the set of pictures taken in mirrors and shiny surfaces! But tell me, what’s the deal with these pictures?
It’s the depth, layers and the light! Puddles, mirrors, windows are so much fun. Taking photographs through layers is also great, whether it’s a layer of plastic, water, and even cling film. Despite having Photoshop, I use these pre-digital techniques all the time.

Laura Ward Mirrored
Mirrored

How did you get into photography? What is it you love about it?
I have absolutely no formal training. I started in my teens when my parents allowed me to go travelling to Italy on my own and my dad gave me a Pentax. I was still hoping to be a decent writer back then, but I quickly realised that taking pictures was much easier. I can never find the right words.

What do you do when you’re not taking pictures?
I’ve worked for charities for many years now. My day job is very much focused on numbers and organising – analysis, strategies, reporting, reconciliation and fulfilling appeals. I definitely get a kick out of working both sides of my brain but it’s not easy managing creative projects and having a day job. Having said that, I don’t think I could do one without the other.

Laura Ward’s work is showing now with Effra FC – on until 25 January at the Sun and Doves,61-63 Coldharbour Lane, Camberwell, London SE5.
Why did you decide to set up business?
 
Akamuti grew out of my passion for plants! I’ve always been interested in their role in tree medicine, page herbalism and aromatherapy so it feels very natural to work with all these wonderful ingredients. Akamuti began in 2003 when I was only 20 years old and keen to start my own business. I think that being home schooled from the age of 10 instilled in me a very independent outlook on life and this streak has grown with me! The business started off in a really small way, advice mixing up tiny amounts of creams & balms from raw ingredients – always using only the best natural ingredients that we could source. Then I would set off to the local health shops with my little box and try to sell them. It was really exciting to get a positive response and this spurred me on to set up a website so that people could order online. From these humble beginnings the business slowly but surely began to grow. Nowadays the whole family are involved in the business, troche with five of us working together. Our combined enthusiasm for a holistic way of living, eating and healing keeps our creativity focused, ensuring that our products reflect our ethics.

Why is being part of a family business so satisfying?
Its good to work together because you have people you know that you can rely on in a crisis. We understand each better than anyone else and thankfully we all seem to rub along nicely so we make a good team.

How did you train yourself to make skincare products?
When I was 17 I did a herbal medicine course that taught me how to make balms and macerated oils, which was great fun to do in the kitchen. I loved drying herbs, hanging them from the airer so that they made a mess on the floor. I experimented, researched and got my hands dirty until I found a recipe that I was happy with. I’ve also worked in aromatherapy for many years so I know my ingredients inside out.

How is your organic vegetable garden, and do you grow any of your own ingredients?
I really love gardens and I’ve been trying my best to grow veg for years. This year I managed to coax some lovely potatoes out of the ground as well as salads, tomatoes and a million cucumbers. Sadly, my onions and garlic didn’t even get chance to see the sunshine this year (slugs!) but I plant them every year because it feels wrong not too! We have plenty of space so it’s been a dream of mine to grow our own ingredients for a few years now… I just need to find the time. 
I’m hoping to plant a lavender and rose garden at some point so that I can make a small amount of my own rosewater!  
 
Can you describe the set up in Wales?
We work from our workshop in a beautiful valley in south west Wales overlooking the Brechfa Forest. We have a smallholding so it’s not only home to us but a few unruly animals as well. It’s a truly inspirational place to live, with nature literally on the doorstep and natural beauty around every corner. I love the peace and quiet here, it really nourishes the soul.   

When you have visitors where do you take them out?
I would take them to our little town of Llandeilo to shop for organic bread and homemade ice cream, then we would visit Carreg Cennen Castle, dramatically perched on a limestone outcrop. I’d make sure we visited the seaside where there are countless coves to choose from, so we might just do them all. And to finish, we would end up in our local pub which has the best beer garden in the world!

What are the benefits of being in Wales, and the pitfalls?
I love the wild side of Wales most. It’s great to nip out the door and within minutes you can be in a forest, a meadow, or on a mountain. I love the trees and fields, the castles, the coastline, the views out to the Brecon Beacons, the stunning drive through the Towy Valley. There is a strong craft community here, we have several community run shops, and there is a lot of great food and farm produce about too. The pitfalls… what pitfalls!?
 
Been anywhere else lately?
I’ve just got back from southern Snowdonia where I stayed at the foot of Cadair Idris. There is a beautiful lake there which I love. It is very cool and quiet – you could be anywhere in the world. I’ve also recently discovered the New Forest – I particularly like all the animals wandering freely through the villages.

How do you source your fairtrade organic ingredients?
Thankfully the internet makes this very easy. We find new suppliers quite quickly and many come by word of mouth. A lot of the time I stumble across people doing amazing things which I note down for the future!

What is the first thing you do when you want to invent a new product?
I make myself a coffee, find a comfy spot, get my notebook out and start writing. I think of what I want to achieve with the product and what I would like to go in it and then I start putting them together. I also brainstorm with everyone else. A bit like planning a garden, the best part is picking the plants! 

What exciting new products are you working on at the moment?
I’m working on a flower based perfume at the moment, so I’m playing around with sandalwood, rose, jasmine and a number of other oils to get the best combination. I’ve decided to keep the perfume as an oil, much like the ancient Attar perfumes, which were based on sandalwood oil. I am a big fan of eastern aromatherapy and I like the way the scents make me drift away to the ancient lands of Persia or Anatolia in my mind.  

What is your favourite ingredient to work with and why?
I’ve got a few favourites but I’ll try and narrow them down. My first love is definitely Rose Otto oil – it works so well for many physical and emotional problems, as well as smelling beautiful. I also love working with Neroli essential oil because it is so uplifting. If an oil could have the quality of kindness then this is the one! 

Why should people buy your products?
Because they are good for the skin and the soul! They are made with 100% natural ingredients from start to finish without any additional rubbish, and we try our best to harness all of the natural goodness of trees, plants and flowers in each product so that our customers get the very best we can make. Our products are people and planet friendly, and they are affordable too.
 
Akamuti by Jenny Lloyd
Akamuti by Jenny Lloyd.

I first became enamoured with Akamuti skincare products when I discovered the brand in 2008 and subsequently interviewed them for the last print issue of Amelia’s Magazine. A family run business in Wales that creates gorgeous organic fairtrade products – what’s not to like? Time to find out what founder Lindsey Hedges is up to these days…

Why did you decide to set up business?
Akamuti grew out of my passion for plants! I’ve always been interested in their role in tree medicine, information pills herbalism and aromatherapy so it feels very natural to work with all these wonderful ingredients. Akamuti began in 2003 when I was only 20 years old and keen to start my own business. I think that being home schooled from the age of 10 instilled in me a very independent outlook on life and this streak has grown with me! The business started off in a really small way, mixing up tiny amounts of creams and balms from raw ingredients – always using only the best natural ingredients that we could source. Then I would set off to the local health shops with my little box and try to sell them. It was really exciting to get a positive response and this spurred me on to set up a website so that people could order online. From these humble beginnings the business slowly but surely began to grow. Nowadays the whole family are involved in the business, with five of us working together. Our combined enthusiasm for a holistic way of living, eating and healing keeps our creativity focused, ensuring that our products reflect our ethics.

Akamuti skincare by Karina Yarv
Lindsey Hedges, founder of Akamuti. Illustration by Karina Yarv.

Why is being part of a family business so satisfying?
It’s good to work together because you have people you know that you can rely on in a crisis. We understand each better than anyone else and thankfully we all seem to rub along nicely so we make a good team.

How did you train yourself to make skincare products?
When I was 17 I did a herbal medicine course that taught me how to make balms and macerated oils, which was great fun to do in the kitchen. I loved drying herbs, hanging them from the airer so that they made a mess on the floor. I experimented, researched and got my hands dirty until I found a recipe that I was happy with. I’ve also worked in aromatherapy for many years so I know my ingredients inside out.

Akamuti-rose & marshmallow beauty mask
Akamuti’s Rose & Marshmallow Beauty Mask.

How is your organic vegetable garden, and do you grow any of your own ingredients?
I really love gardens and I’ve been trying my best to grow veg for years. This year I managed to coax some lovely potatoes out of the ground as well as salads, tomatoes and a million cucumbers. Sadly, my onions and garlic didn’t even get chance to see the sunshine this year (slugs!) but I plant them every year because it feels wrong not too. We have plenty of space so it’s been a dream of mine to grow our own ingredients for a few years now… I just need to find the time. I’m hoping to plant a lavender and rose garden at some point so that I can make a small amount of my own rosewater. 
 
Can you describe the set up in Wales?
We work from our workshop in a beautiful valley in south west Wales overlooking the Brechfa Forest. We have a smallholding so it’s not only home to us but a few unruly animals as well. It’s a truly inspirational place to live, with nature literally on the doorstep and natural beauty around every corner. I love the peace and quiet here, it really nourishes the soul.   

Akamuti-by-Nina-Hunter
Akamuti by Nina Hunter.

When you have visitors where do you take them out?
I would take them to our little town of Llandeilo to shop for organic bread and homemade ice cream, then we would visit Carreg Cennen Castle, dramatically perched on a limestone outcrop. I’d make sure we visited the seaside where there are countless coves to choose from, so we might just do them all. And to finish, we would end up in our local pub which has the best beer garden in the world.

Carreg-Cennen-Castle-by-Yelena-Bryksenkova
Carreg Cennen Castle by Yelena Bryksenkova.

What are the benefits of being in Wales, and the pitfalls?
I love the wild side of Wales most. It’s great to nip out the door and within minutes be in a forest, a meadow, or on a mountain. I love the trees and fields, the castles, the coastline, the views out to the Brecon Beacons, the stunning drive through the Towy Valley. There is a strong craft community here, we have several community run shops, and there is a lot of great food and farm produce about too. The pitfalls… what pitfalls!?
 
lindsey_akamuti_darren fletcher
Lindsey Hedges by Darren Fletcher.

Been anywhere else lately?
I’ve just got back from southern Snowdonia where I stayed at the foot of Cadair Idris. There is a beautiful lake there which I love. It is very cool and quiet – you could be anywhere in the world. I’ve also recently discovered the New Forest – I particularly like all the animals wandering freely through the villages.

Cadair Idris by Karina Yarv
Cadair Idris by Karina Yarv

How do you source your fairtrade organic ingredients?
Thankfully the internet makes this very easy. We find new suppliers quite quickly and many come by word of mouth. A lot of the time I stumble across people doing amazing things which I note down for the future.

What is the first thing you do when you want to invent a new product?
I make myself a coffee, find a comfy spot, get my notebook out and start writing. I think of what I want to achieve with the product and what I would like to go in it and then I start putting them together. I also brainstorm with everyone else. A bit like planning a garden, the best part is picking the plants! 

Akamuti-buttered rose & almond hand cream
Akamuti’s Buttered Rose & Almond Hand Cream.

What exciting new products are you working on at the moment?
I’m working on a flower based perfume at the moment, so I’m playing around with sandalwood, rose, jasmine and a number of other oils to get the best combination. I’ve decided to keep the perfume as an oil, much like the ancient Attar perfumes, which were based on sandalwood oil. I am a big fan of eastern aromatherapy and I like the way the scents make me drift away to the ancient lands of Persia or Anatolia in my mind.  

What is your favourite ingredient to work with and why?
I’ve got a few favourites but I’ll try and narrow them down. My first love is definitely Rose Otto oil – it works so well for many physical and emotional problems, as well as smelling beautiful. I also love working with Neroli essential oil because it is so uplifting. If an oil could have the quality of kindness then this is the one. 

Why should people buy your products?
Because they are good for the skin and the soul! They are made with 100% natural ingredients from start to finish without any additional rubbish, and we try our best to harness all of the natural goodness of trees, plants and flowers in each product so that our customers get the very best we can make. Our products are people and planet friendly, and they are affordable too.
 
Akamuti-replenishing rose facial oil
Akamuti’s Replenishing Rose Facial Oil.

What do you expect to top your Christmas bestsellers list this year?
At the moment, our Replenishing Rose Face Cream is selling very quickly so we are making lots of it to try to keep up with demand. Over the winter the skin tends to dry out much more (I know mine has!) so your skin will really appreciate a good, rich moisturiser to put back all the goodness which the cold weather takes out of it. Replenishing Rose Face Cream is a welcome treat for tired, hungry skin because it is very rich and softening, combining nourishing raspberry, precious pomegranate and rosehip oils with luxurious Rose Otto oil. I expect all our face creams and exotic butters to be the bestsellers over Christmas because they make lovely, unusual presents that are totally natural and ethical.

***************************

I recently chanced upon a bottle of Kalahari Watermelon Body Oil that had been kicking around in the back of my bathroom, and let me tell you it is a glorious treat after a brief interlude of using a cheap Superdrug moisturiser. It smells utterly heavenly and soaks in really well, leaving a delicate waft of essential oils in its wake. You too can shop with Akamuti on their website and at independent retailers across the country.

Categories ,Akamuti, ,Aromatherapy, ,Attar perfume, ,Beauty, ,body butters, ,Brechfa Forest, ,Brecon Beacons, ,Buttered Rose & Almond Hand Cream, ,Cadair Idris, ,Carreg Cennen Castle, ,Darren Fletcher, ,face cream, ,fairtrade, ,Health, ,Herbal Medicine, ,jasmine, ,Jenny Lloyd, ,Kalahari Watermelon Body Oil, ,Karina Yarv, ,Lindsey Hedges, ,Llandeilo, ,Neroli oil, ,New Forest, ,Nina Hunter, ,organic, ,Persia, ,Pomegranate, ,Raspberry, ,Replenishing Rose Face Cream, ,Replenishing Rose Facial Oil, ,Rose, ,Rose & Marshmallow Beauty Mask, ,Rose Otto oil, ,Rosehip, ,sandalwood, ,Snowdonia, ,Towy Valley, ,Tree Medicine, ,wales, ,Yelena Bryksenkova

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Amelia’s Magazine | Pick Me Up Contemporary Graphic Art Fair 2011: Sam Arthur of Nobrow speaks at Mokita

Sam Arthur of Nobrow by Yelena Bryksenkova
Sam Arthur of Nobrow by Yelena Bryksenkova
Sam Arthur of Nobrow by Yelena Bryksenkova.

Since Nobrow burst onto the scene in 2008 I’ve been a massive fan of their beautifully produced books and magazines – somehow they’ve managed to print a huge collection of work in just a short space of time and for the past two years they’ve been showcasing their wares at Pick Me Up. This year several of their featured artists were also amongst the newer names showing in the Ones to Watch section on the first floor so I was intrigued to hear Sam Arthur, this one half of Nobrow, medicine in conversation with Kingston University illustration lecturer Geoff Grandfield with interjections from Adrian Shaughnessy and Valerie Perezon. Below is a rough transcription of the conversation that ensued during the Mokita Symposium.

Nobrow 5 - A Few of My Favourite Things
Nobrow 5 – A Few of My Favourite Things.

Geoff: How did you decide that there was a market for your work?
Sam: We were inspired by publishers such as Le Dernier Cri, Bongout, and Fantagraphics: small places with an avante garde output. And we felt we could do something similar in this country. We’ve both been through the art college system, but I felt that most illustration was very industry based, always destined for a client. No one was generating their own material, for their own sake, so we felt there might be a gap in the market that we could exploit. Our aim is to get illustrators to do their own work – we just set a theme and a colour palette. We were unsure it would take off but we knew it was really important to print everything nicely.

Nobrow 5 - A Few of My Favourite ThingsNobrow 5 - A Few of My Favourite Things
Pages from Nobrow 5 – A Few of My Favourite Things

Geoff: In a way you turned the clock back.
Sam: We have a mix of influences, but we love all the old methods of printing. I guess these anachronistic methods of production have met the internet with Nobrow. People say that we have a very strong look but we love lots of different types of work and I think the similarity comes from the way we print things, and our restricted colour palettes. We look at every bit of work that comes to us and store it in memory bank for later. Then we might come back to it at the right time and ask does it communicate the right idea and can we work with this person on an individual basis? We are drawn to relatively expensive ways of printing, which is quite risky really but we want our stuff to look good, smell good and feel good.

Ford Almanac 1964
One of the images Sam chose for a slide show: a famous cover of the Ford Almanac 1964, illustrated by Charley Harper.

Geoff: Like scratch ‘n’ sniff?
Sam: There is definitely a shift back towards attention to detail; I had a paper merchant in recently and she was trying to push coated paper stock onto me, but of course I wasn’t interested. She moaned that no new graphic designer will ever uses it – I guess it’s because we like to be different and coated stock seems so common.
Geoff: Who is your audience?
Sam: In terms of an easily identifiable market it’s mainly students and working practitioners – there is a danger that we will never turn a profit and it will always be that way… For the people that aren’t so easy to label I’m sure there’s some marketing speak for them… maybe Rainbow Sky Crap Thinkers or something! But for us the most important thing is to remain close to our customers via our website and social networking.
Adrian: Mark Valli of Magma said he set up the shop because he realised that there was a big non professional audience, so maybe that is changing?…

Nobrow 5 - A Few of My Favourite ThingsNobrow 5 - A Few of My Favourite Things
Nobrow 5 – A Few of My Favourite Things.

Valerie Perezon: What is your editorial line?
Sam: We don’t mind how you describe yourself, we just chose what we like. Online we can be more adaptable, for example in a blog you can put across whatever idea of yourself you like. You can be illustrator or an artist one week and then a circus performer the next. But it all starts with being able to draw and communicate. For example we saw Jack Teagle at his graduate show and he immediately grabbed us. We are quite often drawn to print making because we like the restrictions of spot colour techniques but I think our tastes are quite diverse: we’re currently working with John Sibbick, who over the years has worked on dinosaur pictures and heavy metal covers.

The Bento Bestiary, illustrated by Ben Newman, former Amelia's Magazine contributor
The Bento Bestiary, illustrated by Ben Newman, former Amelia’s Magazine contributor.

Geoff: Do you ever tackle themes of social change?
Sam: We like to keep our themes interpretable, so that leaves them open to tackle social issues if people want to.

The Bento Bestiary, illustrated by Ben Newman, former Amelia's Magazine contributor
The Bento Bestiary, illustrated by Ben Newman.

Geoff: Did you know that 40% of the printed matter in world is Manga?
Sam: Because the magazine we produce is made up of collections of images on a theme it does tend to limit our mass appeal.
Adrian: There has generally been a huge move towards a very visual culture, but in UK we are still very much a literary culture – we value the word above all and image is not valued as much, apart from the F-word that is, photography… which is revered and valued.
Sam: The French publishing industry is underwritten by the government but here illustrated books are still seen as for children.
Adrian: I think the biggest drivers of imagery come from subcultures where the image is revered, but is it a weapon or a platform? Because something comes from a subculture does that mean by definition that it has a limited period of interest?
Sam: Yeah, and if I become too trendy then I cease to be… but I’m not trendy so that’s fine. Even if we did sell Nobrow Magazine in WHSmith no one would buy it so we know this title will always be relatively niche.

The Bento Bestiary, illustrated by Ben Newman, former Amelia's Magazine contributor
The Bento Bestiary, illustrated by Ben Newman.

The Bento Bestiary is out now and the fifth issue of Nobrow magazine has just been released with the title A Few of My Favourite Things.

Read my transcript of James Jarvis’ talk at Mokita, my review of the whole Mokita symposium or my review of this years Pick Me Up exhibition.

PS: I did scratch ‘n’ sniff for issue 04 of Amelia’s Magazine.

Categories ,A Few of My Favourite Things, ,Adrian Shaughnessy, ,Ben Newman, ,Bongout, ,Charley Harper, ,comics, ,Fantagraphics, ,Ford Almanac, ,Geoff Grandfield, ,Graphic Cosmography, ,Jack Teagle, ,Kingston University, ,Le Dernier Cri, ,Magma, ,Manga, ,Mark Valli, ,Mokita, ,Nobrow, ,Nobrow Press, ,Pick Me Up, ,Sam Arthur, ,scratch ‘n’ sniff, ,Somerset House, ,The Bento Bestiary, ,Valerie Perezon, ,Yelena Bryksenkova

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Amelia’s Magazine | Portfolio: an interview with illustrator Yelena Bryksenkova

Ada Zanditon A/W 2011 by Yelena Bryksenkova

Ada Zanditon A/W 2011 by Yelena Bryksenkova.

The wonderful New England based illustrator Yelena Bryksenkova has for many years been one of my favourite contributors to Amelia’s Magazine, during which time she has created so many wonderful delicate and highly detailed illustrations that are always perfectly adapted to whatever subject she is given. It’s no surprise that she has been wooing fans across the globe, so I am absolutely delighted to introduce her as a featured Portfolio Illustrator on the soon to be relaunched Amelia’s Magazine website. I caught up with Yelena to find out more about the way she works and much more.

Bio Photo Yelena Bryksenkova

I’ve been a long term admirer of your work, having featured you in my 2010 book, Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration: how did you discover my website and why did you start to contribute?
I discovered you even earlier, when I was working at a magazine shop in Baltimore that carried publications from all over the world. I was still a student then and whiled away the long hours at the shop reading magazines and copying down contact information from the mastheads. I was instantly drawn to Amelia’s Magazine – the exquisite covers, the way every page overflowed with photographs, drawings, interesting articles – it was clearly made with love and unparalleled creative energy. And it was from London. I worked very hard on an illustration which I entered into your competition themed Everything is Connected, and that, to my amazement, is how I made it into the final print issue of the magazine. It was the very first time my work had been printed anywhere, in fact. After the magazine went online, I continued to contribute when I could, and in the process became acquainted with the very friendly and talented community of illustrators in the UK.

Bernard Chandran S/S 2014 by Yelena Bryksenkova

Bernard Chandran S/S 2014 by Yelena Bryksenkova.

One of my favourite things about your illustrations is your amazing use of pattern. Where does this love of detail stem from?
Detail seems so personal and deliberate to me; it’s like a secret shared between the creator and the beholder who cares to look closely enough. I’ve always enjoyed looking at Indian miniature painting, or closely examining the lacy collars in Tudor court paintings. Nowadays drawing painstaking detail and patterning feels meditative to me, but I think it stemmed from my student days, when I discovered that a pattern can nicely mask some awkward drawing mistakes!

Ekaterina Kukhareva S/S 2014 by Yelena Bryksenkova

Ekaterina Kukhareva S/S 2014 by Yelena Bryksenkova.

I also adore your elegant females – which artist or type of art has had the biggest influence on the way you draw people?
I often look at the work of Serov, Sargent, Renoir, Vuillard, Matisse; I will never get tired of paintings of quiet repose, everyday moments. Women brushing their hair, reading, arranging flowers, drinking tea, lost in their private thoughts. Stylistically, the way I draw people was most likely shaped by looking at the works of J.W. Waterhouse and Edward Gorey, as well as fashion illustrations from the 1920s.

Studio Yelena Bryksenkova

Studio Yelena Bryksenkova

What time of day do you find it easiest to work and what are your must have requirements when you sit down to create some art?
Traditionally I am a night owl, although I am finding lately that I get a lot more done if I start working first thing in the morning. Before I sit down to work, my desk (and often the whole room) has to be tidied up – otherwise my mind feels cluttered, I get stressed out and impatient with my work – and I need to have a large mug of tea always on hand.

Pollyanna Band by Yelena Bryksenkova

Pollyanna Band by Yelena Bryksenkova.

How did your agent find you?
I’m not sure, I think they saw my work in the Communication Arts Annual and had been following it for a while before reaching out.

Lug von Siga S/S 2014 by Yelena Bryksenkova

Lug von Siga S/S 2014 by Yelena Bryksenkova.

Do you have a specific approach when you tackle a fashion illustration that is different, say, from an editorial illustration?
Aesthetic appeal is important in editorial illustration, but I must also consider its clarity of concept and succinctness; it must go hand in hand with text. Fashion illustration is all about creating a story and arousing an emotional response to clothes, so there’s more opportunity to be creative. I begin by thinking about the kind of woman the clothes evoke and what kind of dream world she lives in, styling her pose, accessories and even setting based on that.

Orla Kiely S/S 2014 by Yelena Bryksenkova

Orla Kiely S/S 2014 by Yelena Bryksenkova.

Where does your obsession with the image of a small elephant come from?
I think the first time I really took this image to heart was when I was about 17 and I read Haruki Murakami‘s short story The Elephant Vanishes. But upon further recollection, I found that the elephant has been in my life from the start: when I was very small, one of my favorite children’s books was Excuse Me, Elephant by the Polish author Ludwik Jerzy Kern. It was about a boy named Pini and his porcelain elephant Dominik, who comes to life. Now the elephant is a kind of talisman I’ve adopted; I think of it as a harbinger of good tidings.

Pam Hogg S/S 2014 by Yelena Bryksenkova

Pam Hogg S/S 2014 by Yelena Bryksenkova.

Why did you decide to leave New York for New Haven and what has been the best thing about making the move to a more rural setting?
For someone who is very romantic about cities and places in general, I never dreamed of New York and I knew from the start that it isn’t my kind of city. But I did dream of being a New Englander, so I took the first opportunity that presented itself and moved to Connecticut, with the intention of eventually continuing to move deeper into the Northeast. As the home of Yale University, New Haven is collegiate and cozy, small enough to get to know but in such a way that I could never get tired of wandering its charming streets. It’s also so conveniently located that I can take day trips – for work or leisure – by train to New York, Providence and Boston (a city I love and do dream of), as well as many other corners of this beautiful region.

Tata Naka S/S 2012 by Yelena Bryksenkova

Tata Naka S/S 2012 by Yelena Bryksenkova.

What is the best part about researching a new illustration? 
Often I get assignments on a subject I know nothing about. After the initial anxiety about the seemingly foreign and uninteresting, I begin to read, and before long come out something of an expert on the matter and having found some detail that resonates with my emotions or aesthetic sensibilities and that will help me make it mine. All it takes is that detail, and once I pull on the thread, a whole image begins to unravel. It’s very exciting, because it’s such a natural way to learn something new and I find that in life I have become more willing to look for that detail in places and people, rendering me incapable of boredom!

Cheapside Hoard by Yelena Bryksenkova

Cheapside Hoard by Yelena Bryksenkova.

What are the things that make you feel most emotional at present and how do you respond to them?
I recently read Anna Karenina in just a few long sittings and after crying for two days I started working on an imaginary book cover, which I have yet to finish because real book cover commissions took over my life. The autumn weather makes me emotional; the heat and humidity of summer is over and the bitter New England winter hasn’t begun, so I go on nighttime walks in perfectly cool, clear air and I just feel happy, warm and cozy and glad to be alive. This calmness is good for productivity and in turn the presence of meaningful work feeds back into that satisfied feeling.

Izzy Lane by Yelena Bryksenkova

Izzy Lane by Yelena Bryksenkova

Izzy Lane by Yelena Bryksenkova. (illustrations for Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration.)

We were very sad when you could not make it over to the launch party (for my fashion illustration book) due to adverse weather conditions: when did you last travel to the UK and what was the occasion?
My dad lived in Gloucester for a time, and my mom and I visited him; I must have been about 14. I was devastated when the snowstorm thwarted my hopes of visiting London again a whole decade later, but I’m determined to try again, and soon. I have developed so many friendships and professional relationships across the Atlantic and I pledge to meet all of you in person one day!

Sketchbook by Yelena Bryksenkova

Are you still creating beautiful sketch books and if so can we see a sneak peak of a recent one?
Unfortunately I’ve had little time lately to draw in my sketchbook. The last time I drew in it  was on a visit to the Metropolitan Museum of Art.

Eloise Jephson, CSM graduate by Yelena Bryksenkova

Eloise Jephson, CSM graduate by Yelena Bryksenkova.

What is your favourite way to relax and unwind?
My best friend lives about 1.5 hours away in Rhode Island, and I love to visit her after getting all of my work done, so that the time off feels truly deserved, and I can wind my spring for the next stretch. And I even enjoy the journey, because a long, comfortable train ride listening to music and looking out of the window is another great pleasure in life. I love to take long walks and sit in cafes with tea and a good book. This year I’ve been going up to see the Boston Ballet, which is a very relaxing and very magical experience. And of course, lots of good (and bad) TV.

I can’t wait to showcase more of Yelena Bryksenkova‘s beautiful work on my new website, coming soon x

Categories ,Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration, ,Anna Karenina, ,Communication Arts Annual, ,Connecticut, ,Edward Gorey, ,Everything is Connected, ,Excuse Me Elephant, ,Fashion Illustration, ,Haruki Murakami, ,illustration, ,interview, ,J.W. Waterhouse, ,Ludwik Jerzy Kern, ,matisse, ,New England, ,Portfolio Illustrator, ,Renoir, ,Sargent, ,Serov, ,The Elephant Vanishes, ,Vuillard, ,Yelena Bryksenkova

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Amelia’s Magazine | Review: Cheapside Hoard Jewellery Exhibition at the Museum of London

Cheapside Hoard by Yelena Bryksenkova

Cheapside Hoard by Yelena Bryksenkova.

I have a major love for all things jewelled and especially gemological, so a visit to the new Cheapside Hoard exhibition at the Museum of London was an absolute must. This exhibition kicked off with a wonderful late night event and runs until 27th April 2014.

Cheapside Hoard by Yelena Bryksenkova

Cheapside Hoard by Yelena Bryksenkova.

The exhibition features the entire collection of jewels from the renowned Cheapside Hoard of Elizabethan and Jacobean jewellery (discovered under a building in the City of London just over 100 years ago), as well as plenty of contextual information. In the darkened rooms we were taken back to a period when great piles of jewels were worn on an every day basis by the upper echelons of society. We are familiar with their style from the multitude of portraits that exist from this era but it is intriguing to see them placed in context with the actual jewellery that was worn: very few examples have survived so the Cheapside Hoard really is the definition of a treasure trove.

Recreation of a jeweller’s workshop, Museum of London

Mock up of jeweller’s workshop.

Cheapside Hoard enamel chains

Enamel chains.

There is a mocked up jeweller’s workshop, descriptions of the trade routes taken by popular gems and a chance to open a mini vent and smell the typical scent worn by a lady of that time. There are many stand out pieces but amongst my favourite were the intricate long enamelled chains that feature tiny flowers and perfectly set stones and were worn in layered abundance. Beautiful bunches of perfectly wobbling amethyst grapes were worn pinned into hair or cascading from ear lobes. An amazing watch set into an emerald is shown alongside stunning spikes of crystal emerald.

Medusa Emerald and hexagonal emerald watch

Medusa Emerald and hexagonal emerald watch.

Jewelled scented bottle of white enamel and gold: 16th - 17th ce

Scent Bottle.

Cheapside hoarder by Sandra Contreras
Cheapside hoarder by Sandra Contreras.

Snarfle loves playing with my jewellery and he loved hearing our explanations of the many types of jewel on show, which include a tiny frog shaped pouch, a teeny boat and miniature parrot broach. Sadly, for the first time, we experienced the wrath of an unhappy visitor as we were leaving the exhibition. ‘Why did you bother coming?‘ he huffed, after exclaiming that we’d ruined his visit – presumably by speaking in slightly louder than hushed tones as we walked around the darkened rooms. Well, I would say that this show is a must see for anyone interested in jewellery, whether they be child or adult. And I look forward to seeing its influence on jewellery design in the years to come.

Read my listing for the Cheapside Hoard here. All photos courtesy of the Museum of London.

Categories ,Cheapside Hoard, ,Elizabethan, ,exhibition, ,Jacobean, ,jewellery, ,museum of london, ,review, ,Sandra Contreras, ,Snarfle, ,Yelena Bryksenkova

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