Amelia’s Magazine | Kay Kwok: London Collections: Men S/S 2014 Catwalk Review


Kay Kwok S/S 2014 by Gabriel Ayala

Kay Kwok was actually my first show of the London Collections: Men S/S 2014 schedule. When I turned up on the Sunday morning, I had a bit of a meltdown outside. I’d returned from holidays and suddenly found myself standing in a standing queue waiting to get in to a venue to watch a designer’s show that I knew nothing about. As street style snappers snapped street style snappers and people behind me in the queue had banal conversations about how they’d selected which shoes to wear, I thought, ‘What the hell am I doing here? I don’t belong here’. It all seemed rather tedious. I yearned to be at home watching the Coronation Street omnibus in my pants, eating Crunchy Nut Cornflakes.


The security guy in the background isn’t part of Kay’s creative direction, he was an actual security guard. Was going to remove him but I like how his poses change from shot to shot…
All photography by Matt Bramford

When I finally got inside, the venue was ludicrously empty. I couldn’t believe it. What was all that al fresco fuss about? I decided to dust myself off and get on with it, and when the lights dimmed and the music started, I realised that this wasn’t such a bad place to be after all. Yeesh, I go on, don’t I? Anyway, let’s talk about Kay Kwok.

Born and raised in Hong Kong, Kay Kwok graduated from the London College of Fashion only last year. He’s already establishing himself on the London fashion menswear scene with a little help from the endorsement of GQ China. This S/S 2014 he brought his blend of ‘cosmic fashion’ to the collections.


Kay Kwok S/S 2014 by Gabriel Ayala

Opening with a wide v-necked tunic top and fitted trousers, this would turn out to be a multifaceted collection. A sea of garments revealing bare chests with this familiar v-neck design followed: beiges and blacks were used heavily for blazers, jackets and further tunics.

Kwok relies heavily on futuristic, architectural forms. T-shirts featured apron-like overlays and wide-leg trousers continued up to the chest with geometric panels. Rigid leather jackets and trousers transformed the shapes of models.

Later came graffiti-like acidic prints, with which, I’m told, Kwok is more closely associated. These were cleverly applied to long coats and accompanying trousers: at first carefully on sleeves, and then with abandon across all garments. Futuristic footwear came courtesy of fellow LCF graduate Youngwon Kim.

As the finale walked past I felt like I’d witnessed two separate collections – both of which were equally exciting. Comparisons have been drawn with J.W. Anderson but I think Kay Kwok‘s aesthetic is a more appealing one and he’s a welcome addition to the London Collections line-up.

Categories ,catwalk, ,Coronation Street, ,fashion, ,Gabriel Ayala, ,GQ China, ,Hong Kong, ,LCM, ,LCMSS14, ,London Collections Men, ,Matt Bramford, ,menswear, ,review, ,S/S 14, ,SS14, ,Victoria House

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Amelia’s Magazine | KTZ: London Fashion Week S/S 2013 Catwalk Review


KTZ S/S 2013 by Krister Selin

After the Felder Felder show I trekked from Somerset House to Goldsmith’s Hall over by St Paul’s to catch PPQ. As is standard, the PPQ show was massively oversubscribed and with the queue already blocking off streets I didn’t even bother to be turned away with my standing ticket. There was no way I was going to risk missing the mighty KTZ.


KTZ S/S 2013 by Gabriel Ayala

So I legged it to Somerset House like some sort of deranged fashion yo-yo and got seated for the action. Lida from The First to Know who handles KTZ‘s PR looked impeccable in one of their A/W 2012 creations with oversized gold religious emblems. As I waited for the show to start I fantasised about what we might see this season. From 1980s Memphis design to religion, via Africa, it’s been an ever exciting journey with Kokon to Zai and I couldn’t wait to see what they’d crafted this season.


All photography by Matt Bramford

When the pounding music started and the first model appeared I knew instantly that I wasn’t going to be disappointed. Slightly androgynous with a slicked back hair-do and loose pony tail that swished as she marched, the model wore a cropped lace shirt and intricate capri pants with cutaway details, accessorised with oversized pearl earrings and clutch bag. KTZ is one of those rare shows where the audience whoop and cheer at every look.


KTZ S/S 2013 by Krister Selin

The KTZ aesthetic came shortly afterwards, with a model sporting a baseball cap in an intriguing lace full-sleeve dress and a face mask akin to something worn by a very, very fashionable surgeon.

The aesthetic structure of each garment had been inspired by the intricate delicacies of Art Nouveau patterns, in particular William Morris; classic cuts transformed by the whiplash motifs of the era and the fluid, organic lines that differentiate Art Nouveau from other movements. These were expertly applied to the fronts of corseted frocks and the hemlines of short, circular skirts.

The colour black featured heavily as is pretty standard at a KTZ show – translucent tops with thick, black Art Nouveau-inspired embellishments and thigh-high boots in patent leather, teamed the KTZ with huge gold logo accessories, such as an epic bracelet that enveloped the full length of a model’s arm.

Now I would normally say that if you’re a fan of cutesy florals on feminine dresses, steer well clear of KTZ. While that’s still strictly true of this fantasy label, we were then treated to some feminine shapes with sculpted upper halves and playful bulbous skirts. It allowed me to think that this might almost be wearable by people other than Rihanna and Will.i.am.


KTZ S/S 2013 by Gabriel Ayala

Welcomed bursts of colour began to fill the catwalk: a peach tone not seen since 1980s bridesmaids dresses that worked effortlessly with this monochrome-heavy collection, and an effervescent green number for good measure seemed a bit of an odd choice, but if KTZ ever become predictable I’ll stop bloody going.

The detail, craftsmanship and translation of a theme was simply awe-inspiring and rendered me breathless in under 12 minutes – a sensation I sadly haven’t experienced in a while.

Long may KTZ reign!

Categories ,1980s, ,Art Nouveau, ,Bridesmaids, ,Gabriel Ayala, ,Harajuku girls, ,Kokon To Zai, ,Krister Selin, ,KTZ, ,lace, ,London Fashion Week, ,Matt Bramford, ,Peach, ,Pearlescent, ,S/S 2013, ,Somerset House, ,SS13, ,William Morris, ,Womenswear

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Amelia’s Magazine | Fyodor Golan: London Fashion Week A/W 2012 Catwalk Review

Fyodor Golan A/W 2012 by Faye West
Fyodor Golan A/W 2012 by Faye West.

Fyodor Golan were first to show in the newly created Embankment Galleries showspace, a long thin strip in Somerset House that previously housed the stands and necessitates registering at the front desk in order to get to. A year ago I was most taken by Fyodor Golan‘s first catwalk show at Fashion Scout, and last season they were deserving winners of the Fashion Fringe competition, so I was eager to see what these fine art graduates would do next.

Fyodor Golan AW 2012 - photography by Amelia Gregory
Fyodor Golan AW 2012 - photography by Amelia Gregory
Fyodor Golan AW 2012 - photography by Amelia Gregory
Fyodor Golan AW 2012 - photography by Amelia Gregory
Fyodor Golan A/W 2012 by Gaarte
Fyodor Golan A/W 2012 by Gaarte.

Welcome to the Machine was inspired by Russian peasantry and aristocratic fashions… marrying tribal styles with extravagant embellishments to great effect. Stepping through a neon pink doorway models wore skater skirted dresses in beetle inspired metallic copper and green, heavy nose rings courtesy of designer Alexandra Druzhinin hanging over their mouths. Insects crawled across the waists of dresses, and the curving lines of their wings were echoed in the finely swept hair slicked to brows. At Fyodor Golan buns were tightly woven into peasant plaits.

Fyodor Golan AW 2012 - photography by Amelia Gregory
Fyodor Golan AW 2012 - photography by Amelia Gregory
Fyodor Golan AW 2012 - photography by Amelia Gregory
Fyodor Golan AW 2012 - photography by Amelia Gregory
Fyodor Golan AW 2012 - photography by Amelia Gregory
Fyodor Golan AW 2012 - photography by Amelia Gregory
Fyodor Golan A/W 2012 by Gaarte
Fyodor Golan A/W 2012 by Gaarte.

These clothes are not for the faint hearted – there were heavy quilted metallic textures and pleated furls, followed by light as a feather lambswool or swinging tasselled skirts in wintery white. Punchy red provided dazzling relief from darker hues in the form of skater dresses, and my favourite look (in red) featured a sheer bodice with narrow strips of pleating curled over the bosom and shoulders.

Fyodor Golan AW 2012 - photography by Amelia Gregory
Fyodor Golan AW 2012 - photography by Amelia Gregory
Fyodor Golan AW 2012 - photography by Amelia Gregory
Fyodor Golan AW 2012 - photography by Amelia Gregory
Fyodor Golan AW 2012 - photography by Amelia Gregory
Fyodor Golan AW 2012 - photography by Amelia Gregory
The finale was preceded by a model who was somewhat inexplicably covered entirely in emerald green glitter – perhaps a reference to beetles too far… This was followed by a stunning pearlised white showpiece, with a weighty golden crown shrouded in netting that also covered the face.

Fyodor Golan A/W 2012 by Gareth A Hopkins
Fyodor Golan A/W 2012 by Gareth A Hopkins.

Fyodor Golan AW 2012 - photography by Amelia Gregory
Fyodor Golan AW 2012 - photography by Amelia Gregory
Fyodor Golan AW 2012 - photography by Amelia Gregory
Fyodor Golan AW 2012 - photography by Amelia Gregory
Fyodor Golan A/W 2012 by Marta Madaiva Illustrations
Fyodor Golan A/W 2012 by Marta Madaiva Illustrations.

Once again Fyodor Podgorny and Golan Frydman have proved themselves a fashionable proposition to be reckoned with, and I look forward to seeing how their artisanal creativity develops with each new season.

Fyodor Golan AW 2012 - photography by Amelia Gregory
All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,A/W 2012, ,Alexandra Druzhinin, ,Aristocracy, ,Beetles, ,Embankment Galleries, ,Fashion Fringe, ,Fashion Scout, ,Faye West, ,Fyodor Golan, ,Fyodor Podgorny, ,Gaarte, ,Gabriel Ayala, ,Gareth A Hopkins, ,Golan Frydman, ,Green Glitter, ,London Fashion Week, ,Marta Madaiva Illustrations, ,Metallic, ,Nose Rings, ,peasant, ,Quilting, ,review, ,Russian, ,Somerset House, ,Trace Publicity, ,Tribal, ,Welcome to the Machine

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Amelia’s Magazine | Corrie Nielsen: London Fashion Week S/S 2013 Catwalk Preview Interview

Interview with Corrie Nielsen, Illustration by Rosa ad Carlotta Crepax, Illustrated Moodboard
Corrie Nielsen S/S 2012 preview by Rosa and Carlotta Crepax, Illustrated Moodboard.

Fashion designer Corrie Nielsen has been wowing us here at Amelia’s Magazine for a number of seasons so we were very excited to discover that for S/S 2013 she has worked in close partnership with Kew… here she describes how the collaboration came about and what we can expect from the new Kew inspired collection.

I am very excited about your upcoming S/S 2013 show, which was done in conjunction with Kew Gardens: how did this relationship come about?
I knew that I wanted to base the season on plants and flowers, so the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew was the natural first port of call. It is one of my favourite spaces in London. The whole studio went to Kew together and we took countless photos, which are plastered all over the studio walls. My PR, Courtney Blackman, ended up meeting Kew’s Chairman of the Board at an event and if you know her, she makes things happen. The rest is history. They were really excited that my collection would be all about Kew.

Corrie Nielsen Corrie thinking about plants on a bench under a tree at Kew
Corrie Nielsen Peony 038_Pae_dau_ - from KEW ARCHIVE
Your interest in history is well known, how did you take inspiration from the original documentation of Charles Darwin’s journeys, which are stored in the Kew libraries?
After the first studio trip to Kew, I took a secondary trip with my business partners and that’s when we got to explore the seed libraries, browse through Darwin’s original letters, etc. I’m fascinated by the concept of Darwin’s ‘The Origin of the Species’ – seeing his letters was an unbelievable honour. I’ve taken that concept and really explored it by researching actual blueprints of plants and flowers. The complexity is staggering and in tranfering the research into the clothes, I’ve really had to employ serious engineering to some of my more sculpted pieces .

Corrie Nielsen Swarovski Collective by Catherine Moody
Corrie Nielsen S/S 2013 preview illustration by Catherine Moody.

Can we expect to see any other influences from Kew – for example are there any particular seeds, flowers, trees or other plants that have inspired the new collection?
Tulips, peony roses and even the Victorian glass houses of Kew influence the range.

Corrie Nielsen Stairs in a glass house at Kew
Corrie Nielsen One of my favourite shapes at Kew
How do you process this information? eg do you take photos and then create mood boards?
Photos, photos, photos and I study individual specimens. My studio walls are one giant mood board. I also research a lot online for further development once I have the concept in mind.

Corrie mood board
Corrie Nielsen The Peacock
How often have you visited Kew in preparation for this season’s catwalk show? Any particularly fond memories that you can share with us…
I’ve gone a couple of times and had a very friendly experience with one of the garden’s peacocks. Being able to go into the seed libraries and seeing all the varied specimens that Kew works with was staggering.

corrie mood
What kinds of fabrics feature in the new collection and where were they sourced from?
I’m working with a lot of silk: metal-infused silks, gradient silks and cotton and lightweight wool. I source most of my fabrics from France.

Corrie Nielsen Team Corrie Nielsen at Kew
What else can we expect from the show in terms of styling and production?
Rebekah Roy will be styling the show and for a second season, Emma Yeo will be creating headpieces. She’s so talented. AOFM Pro’s Yin Lee is doing the makeup again – I love working with her. She really gets the brand. TONI&GUY are doing the hair and we are working exclusively with M&P Models, so every single model on the catwalk will be from M&P. And lastly, once again my collection will be named after a Medieval Latin word…

Corrie Nielsen by Zulekha Lakeca
Corrie Nielsen by Zulekha Lakeca.

Corrie Nielsen shows at the BFC space on Friday 14th September 2012. After London Fashion Week Corrie Nielsen will be exhibiting in Paris at Vendôme Luxury Tradeshow at Le Meurice Hotel, 75001.

Categories ,AOFM Pro, ,Catherine Moody, ,Charles Darwin, ,Corrie Nielsen, ,Courtney Blackman, ,Emma Yeo, ,Illustrated Moodboard, ,Kew, ,Le Meurice Hotel, ,M&P Models, ,Rebekah Roy, ,Rosa and Carlotta Crepax, ,Royal Botanic Gardens, ,The Origin of the Species, ,Vendôme Luxury Tradeshow, ,Yin Lee, ,Zulekha Lakeca

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Amelia’s Magazine | Curating Yamamoto: An interview with Ligaya Salazar, the V&A’s Yohji Yamamoto exhibition curator


Illustration by Jo Cheung

So after a rollercoaster six days, website online Menswear Day and London Fashion Week drew to a close with hip-store Kokon To Zai’s label, this web dosage KTZ, viagra and what would be my final show of this season. I absolutely loved what they did last season, and I couldn’t wait to see what they’d come up with next.


All photography by Matt Bramford

A heavily policed front row meant me and illustrator Gareth took seats on the second, but I managed to get on the end so that my pictures would make it look like I was Frowing all along. I was bloody exhausted and feeling very sorry for myself, and I couldn’t help but wish that they’d just get on with it and stop papping people wearing pig masks. My legs wobbled and I struggled to keep my eyes open, but when the music started and the first look appeared, I quickly forgot my woes.


Illustration by June Chanpoomidole


Illustration by Thomas Leadbetter

Memphis-inspired fashion? I thought I’d died and gone to heaven. A pumpin’ soundtrack blasted from the PA system as gorgeous models (more women than men, but who cares?) sashayed up and down the length of the BFC tent. Stripes were a plenty on figure-hugging dresses with sweetheart necklines that feature extra flaps in that Pop Art/Memphis splatter pattern. Vibrant primary colours made black dresses playful: such a sophisticated, considered collection expertly styled by wonder-styilst Anna Trevelyan.

A whole load of other influences filtered into this power collection – the womenswear referenced power dressing from the 1980s (think Dynasty) and Mondrian’s prints; the menswear also digging up the eighties with (faux!) fur lapels and broad shoulders.


Illustration by Abby Wright

I have to admit, I did prefer the womenswear – it was far more wearable for fashion-forward ladies and it oozed sex appeal with dresses cut above the knee and details in all the right places to emphasise the curves. The menswear featured striped balaclavas topped with pom-poms, acrylic brooches which referenced the womenswear, over-sized imposing puffa jackets and graphic-print trousers. But it’ll be the womenswear that cements Kokontozai’s place as one of London’s hottest design duos.


Illustration by Lesley Barnes

Huge orb-like creations were worn on wrists, picking out patterns from lapels. And, oh, the cuts! Dynamic pieces of fabric were layered onto classic tailored pieces to give them a seriously sexy aesthetic. This was a collection that was playful but sophisticated at the same – a really difficult challenge to pull off.


Illustration by Valerie Pezeron

I loved EVERYTHING about it. I can’t put it into words, so just have a look at the pictures. Oh, and read Amelia’s more comprehensive and articulate review here!

You can see more from Jo Cheung, June Chanpoomidole, Abby Wright and Lesley Barnes in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration!



Illustration by Gareth A Hopkins

This spring, visit this the V&A presents a unique exhibition dedicated to the Grand Master Japanese couturier, Yohji Yamamoto. The exhibition will celebrate his life and work, and is the first of its kind in the UK. 30 years after Yamamoto debuted in Paris, the V&A has brought together rare examples of his visionary designs.

Watch the video for an exclusive interview with the exhibition’s curator, Ligaya Salazar. You can also read some of Salazar’s thoughts below, too.

On process
With this project I started roughly two and a half years ago to work on the idea and the concept behind the exhibition, it’s also a very particular project because you are working with a living designer who you are doing a single retrospective with, working with their team very closely, so in terms of curating, there is much more of a dialogue there than you would probably normally have with a slightly more thematic show.

The focus was more on to find a concept that would work for him, as a designer, because Yohji Yamamoto is very special in the deign world in terms of the way he approaches designing, so the way you want to show his work should be quite different as well… I spent more time looking at ways of displaying his work, ways of showing his work…

On garment selection
I had the incredible honour to be able to go into both his Paris and his Tokyo archives; the Tokyo archives no curator had ever been to and I had all of his archive to look at and to choose from, which made the editing process incredibly hard. It is something you spend a long time doing, talking to Yohji’s team, talking to the designer, making sure you have covered the iconic parts of his career, but also choosing pieces that are most emblematic of the themes that you want to bring out. I stated with an object list that was about six hundred pieces, and that was already a selection of the pieces I saw in the archive and then I had to bring it down to ninety; it was a long and arduous process.

On themes
Because it is an installation based exhibition, there isn’t a prescriptive story to tell, or a chronology, it was much more about how people would encounter the garments. For the first time what we are doing is to show everything on open display, on the same height as the viewer, so you are meeting your other, rather than looking up and behind glass. It’s a very different experience of the clothes.

Yohi Yamamoto is at the V&A and at The Wapping Project until 10th July 2011. Look out for a full review coming soon!

See more from Natascha Nanji here.

Categories ,couture, ,Cromwell Road, ,Curator, ,exhibition, ,fashion, ,Gareth A Hopkins, ,japan, ,japanese, ,Ligaya Salazar, ,london, ,Natascha Nanji, ,paris, ,Retrospective, ,tokyo, ,va, ,video, ,Yohji Yamamoto

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Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion East and NEWGEN Menswear Installations: London Fashion Week A/W Presentation Review


Sibling A/W 2012 by Gabriel Ayala

The Fashion East and NEWGEN installations were a riot of colour, innovation and design again this season. I always have the best intentions on menswear day to see everything – the schedule is quite thin in a morning and leads you into a false sense of security that you can casually amble around taking in every designer in your stride. Serenity soon turns to chaos about 1pm though – the installations open, they’re rammed, and all of a sudden there are back-to-back catwalk shows dotted around town.

So in typical Matt stylee I raced around the installations in between shows, juggling my camera, a glass of plonk and a bunch of handouts in unison. Here’s my whistle-stop tour of both the Fashion East and Newgen designers:

Christopher O’Brien
Christopher O’Brien‘s name wasn’t one I’d heard of before, but I was captivated by his devilishly good looks and, more importantly, his A/W 2012 collection. His innovative crinkled cotton in white, navy and aqua across jackets and shirts really stood out.

Kit Neale

Kit Neale A/W 2012 by Krister Selin

In a separate room, Kit Neale‘s presentation was one of the highlights. A mixture of models stood and sat across wooden platforms, wearing Kit’s weird and wonderful digital-print fabrics. Matching jackets and trousers came in garish patterns, styled with scarves and backpacks. Across the room, a video of models performing karaoke to Elvis hits in front of a sparkly curtain played – one of my favourite digital presentations of this season.

Dr Noki’s NHS
In typical Noki fashion, his two models were adorned in all sorts of recycled materials: back-to-front New Era caps (a Noki staple), faces covered with t-shirts and comic book illustrations, which had my pal Gareth A HopkinsAmelia’s Magazine contributor and comic perv – proclaiming that he was on trend long before Noki was; a fact I wholeheartedly agree with.

Sebastian Tarek
Lovely, lovely shoes.

Sibling

Sibling A/W 2012 by Gabriel Ayala

On menswear day I find myself desperate to see what Sibling will present each season. Last year’s fairground-inspired collection bowled me over. This ‘Marked Man‘ collection drew inspiration from ‘the relationship between a protective matriarch and her beloved – but wayward – son’. Queue glittery knits, tattoo imagery, a bleeding heart motif – this design trio certainly know how to interpret a theme. My favourite pieces were those that carried the leopard print knits – just incredible. To accompany their presentation, Sibling produced a stunning video installation that featured three models behind bars. Three screens acted as contemporary prison windows, where guests could sit opposite, listen to white noise down phone lines, and generally absorb the atmosphere. It was pretty affecting stuff. The three screens worked as a whole, with models moving between windows and animations occurring at the same time. Even visiting children enjoyed it.

T.Lipop
I’m a big fan of T.Lipop‘s contemporary sartorial splendour and this season was no exception. A fashion expedition – models wore contemporary tailoring and were styled with ice-cold beards and eyebrows. There’s a full review of the T.Lipop catwalk show to come soon…

William Richard Green
Last but not least, William Richard Green gave the modern man more ways to mix up his wardrobe. Jackets displayed expert craftsmanship, adorned with large white buttons, reworking classic staple items into statements for A/W 2012. An inimitable mix of wearable pieces and conceptual items (overcoats teamed with polkadot trousers and New Balance trainers), garments in this collection are sure to become future classics and I’d gladly wear any of it.

It was pretty exhausting – not least because one had to manoeuvre around Champagne gluggers like an assassin just to take a photograph – but it’s always worth it.

Categories ,A/W 2012, ,AW12, ,Christopher O’Brien, ,Dr Noki, ,Fashion East, ,Gaarte, ,Gabriel Ayala, ,Gareth A Hopkins, ,Kit Neale, ,Krister Selin, ,London Fashion Week, ,Marked Man, ,Matt Bramford, ,menswear, ,Newgen, ,NHS, ,Sebastian Tarek, ,Sibling, ,Somerset House, ,t.lipop, ,William Richard Green

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Amelia’s Magazine | An interview with British fashion designer Samantha Cole

Illustration by Gabriel Ayala

British fashion is normally typified by its quirky features, this web but Samantha Cole of Samantha Cole London is a stand out star in her own rights. Having presented her collection Identity III: A New Dawn at the London Fashion Week On|Off Presents… show and winning Best Womenswear Designer at New York Fashion Week for Spring Summer 2009, buy more about she is truly a force to be reckoned with. In an interview with her, malady I got to know the inner workings of her creative mind, and pick her brains (er…not literally) about her unique style.

Your Autumn/Winter 2010 collection, Identity III: A New Dawn, made heavy use of your smocking technique, giving the fabrics a beautiful texture. Do you think that this is a key element in the feeling of “coming out, coming through, a fresh start and something new” that you had?

The feeling of coming out and coming through was more from a cleansing point of view and starting over with a clean slate which, in its purest state, was emphasised through the use of white. It was a re-birth into something new that felt almost alien-like and surreal in approach, which can be seen from the styling images of the collection to further enhance this point. ?It is my love of structure, detail, texture and architecture that produced the smocking techniques inspired by the pyramids of Egypt used to create the textured feel to the collection.

Besides your smocking technique, there is an elegance and grace in your clothing, which is arguably difficult to find when using your unique and exaggerated silhouettes. How would you define the style your line exemplifies?

Thank you for that, it’s the first time my work and the words “elegance and grace” have been used in the same sentence. ?My style stems from a definitive point of view, very rarely subtle or subdued. It can be aggressive to further emphasis a point and for the most, be part fearless in its approach. This can be seen in more detail through the styling of my work, it goes beyond the garments to produce a complete overall look of my inspiration which, for the most part, is a combination of both fantasy and reality.

Your previous two collections Identity: A Journey of Self Discovery and Identity II: Warrior, as well as A New Dawn, both feature quite voluminous and textured aspects, especially in the tailored yet feminine qualities. Would you agree in saying that these techniques create an haute-couture element to your designs?

To some degree yes it does, I love detail and textures which does give that couture feel but still like to keep the silhouettes simple at the same time.

Your collections tend to only draw very little influence from modern trends. Every designer in the industry is unique, but do you feel that your collections, such as A New Dawn, allow you stand out like many designers before you, such as the late Alexander McQueen?

I don’t know that I stand out as such, but there are a plethora of creative minds doing similar things who are also unique in their approach. I just do what I want to do regardless of what’s going on around me. ?In regards to my influences, it’s really what I’m drawn to at that time. Though having said that, there is so much to pull from the past, which I find more interesting as a designer to do.

Illustration by Gabriel Ayala

You worked on the design team at Burberry before your venture into your own label, leaving that uniquely British imprint on your designs. Do you feel that your designs exemplify what British fashion is all about?

British fashion for me has always been about creativity, individuality, eccentricity, rebellion and the freedom to explore your skills and talent to the fullest. It’s the complete and total abandonment that you can only get here in the UK, which is why I love this country so much and why it’s such a perfect fit for me. So in answer to your question, yes, I do believe that my designs exemplify what british fashion is all about.

Arguably, there is a lack of popularity among British brands in the market, with the exception of the likes of Burberry, and that consumers aren’t really aware of other labels. Do you feel that, as an award-winning British label, there is a need to promote the rebellious and eccentric natures? Do you feel that Samantha Cole London could be a potential front-runner in promoting these British natures?

I don’t look to what the industry wants, expects or requires. It’s not intentional to rebel or to be seen as different, and I’m personally so overwhelmed with the outpouring of so much commerciality, that I’m sometimes bored to tears. I’m not here to raise the flag or be a front runner but just to be me and express my thoughts and ideas through what I do. It’s why I got into the industry in the first place – I have something to say, it may be considered rebellious, but it’s just an opinion. Something I don’t go out of my way or ethos to express, and definitely wouldn’t, is consider myself a poster child or otherwise to what you call “British natures”….I’m just me, doing me.

Illustration by Gabriel Ayala

With the head scratching, questions out of the way, I took it upon myself to ask Miss Cole a few quick fire questions:

Do you prefer sketching designs or actually constructing them?

Constructing them for me is the fun part, the first garment mostly sets the path for the rest of the collection and i never end up with what I sketched anyway, so it is sometimes a waste of my time

What do you like the most about designing your clothes?

Experimenting with textures and details

How would you define your personal style in three words?

Dark, understated, confused

What does fashion mean to you in three words?

Creativity, rebellion, individuality

What advice would you give to anyone who would like to follow in your footsteps and do fashion design?

I think if it is their dream and passion they should go for it. It will be stressful, tiring, exhausting, most days feel like an emotional rollercoaster and it can be disheartening but as long as they stay true to the dream and the passion they started with and are in it for the right reasons, then I say great!!…The fashion industry is an amazing place to be, and design is the hub of creativity.

You can see more of Samantha Cole’s collections on her website, and read our review of the On|Off Presents… show here.

Categories ,A/W 2010, ,British Fashion, ,Burberry, ,Colin Dawidziuk, ,Gabriel Ayala, ,London Fashion Week, ,onoff, ,On|Off Presents…, ,Rebellion, ,Samantha Cole, ,Smocking, ,Texture, ,Womenswear

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Amelia’s Magazine | Ashley Isham: London Fashion Week A/W 2013 Catwalk Review

Ashley Isham A/W 2013 by Gemma Cotterell
Ashley Isham A/W 2013 by Gemma Cotterell.

This season Ashley Isham decided to up his game, producing a collection that was a dramatic break from what we’ve come to expect from this lover of draped party frocks. So it was out with the floral chiffon and jewel coloured jersey and in with hard edged military inspired jackets and sharp shouldered shift dresses. Models strode out bearing intriguing headwear: glossy black visors tilted over their eyes and tied at the back with delicate ribbon under a towering top knot. The effect was one of high octane glamour infused with an attitude of powerful defiance.

Ashley Isham AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham A/W 2013 by Rosa Middleton
Ashley Isham A/W 2013 by Rosa Middleton.

Standout garments included a sumptuous brocade coat decorated in exotic red and orange flowers and a bright red double breasted jacket worn over a pencil skirt with an interesting circular detail in yellow piping. An all over tropical print on loungewear appeared a bit out of place for winter, but was nonetheless welcome relief in the midst of this predominantly sombre collection.

Ashley Isham AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham A/W 2013 by Gaarte
Ashley Isham A/W 2013 by Gaarte.

Not all of Ashley Isham‘s new found love of tailoring was successful: too much layering felt unnecessary and this was proof that peplums, capes, frills and panelling don’t always work well together. The few draped garments in this collection – khaki belted minidresses – were effortlessly simple as always, and the hard edged styling suited them well.

Ashley Isham AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham A/W 2013 by Gaarte
Ashley Isham A/W 2013 by Gaarte.

For the finale Isham reverted to type, sending out a series of sweeping floor length dresses in rich browns topped with gunmetal embroidery, the kind that swish threateningly around ankles and cause tottering models to trip and swoop. The closing dress featured a huge skirt with an intriguing abstract grey rippled effect: I’ll be intrigued to see what Ashley Isham will do with this new exploratory vibe next season.

Ashley Isham AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashey Isham A/W 2013 by Isher Dhiman
Ashey Isham A/W 2013 by Isher Dhiman.

Ashley Isham AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham A/W 2013. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,Ashley Isham, ,draping, ,Gaarte, ,Gemma Cotterell, ,Isher Dhiman, ,military, ,Rosa Middleton

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Amelia’s Magazine | Baartmans and Siegel: London Fashion Week Menswear Day Catwalk Review


Baartmans & Siegel A/W 2012 by Warren Clarke

Working for Amelia’s Magazine – proud pioneer of fresh talent – it’s always a delight to see a label progress through the seasons. It baffles me how designers make it into showcases like Fashion Scout’s Ones to Watch and then simply disappear. So I was delighted to see that Baartmans and Siegel – the dutch/English design partnership we’d enjoyed in the Ones to Watch show last season – had made it onto the menswear day schedule with their first solo outing. They’re stocked by Harrods and met at Viktor & Rolf, so their joint credentials already have them a high profile.


Baartmans and Siegel A/W 2012 by Gabriela Romagna

Unusually I was one of the first attendees into the show space at the Freemasons’ Hall, so I revelled in digging through the goodie bag (I’m pleased to announce I’m fully furnished with Label.M products again, after levels in my bathroom had reached worryingly low levels) and I read through the show notes. This season the design duo sought inspiration from, amongst other things, the Milk Tray man. I was already in love with this collection before everybody had even taken their seats.


All photography by Matt Bramford

Inspiration also came from 1970s British menswear and cinema. Baartmans and Siegel are obsessed with popular culture and it is the Milk Tray man‘s mystery and sense of indulgence that had them captivated in the run up to this show.

The first look featured a meticulously tailored blazer in a rich blue colour, which would become the mainstay. A pocket square of the same colour held the initials B and S, and the jacket was teamed with comfortable grey trousers with silver zips to give a futuristic appeal.


Baartmans & Siegel A/W 2012 by Warren Clarke

More tailoring followed, with loose-fitting tweed trousers and cashmere blazers worn over chunky knitted rollnecks. Then came sportier ensembles included padded puffa jackets – some with zip details, others with contrasting tweed sections.

The blue kept coming, as did a desirable palette of slate grey and, of course, Cadbury purple in honour of their hero. A classic grey jacket was teamed with jersey trousers with contrasting panels for a contemporary look, and sophisticated overcoats show Baartmans and Siegel’s expertise in dressing the modern man.


Baartmans and Siegel A/W 2012 by Gabriela Romagna

This is refined menswear at its best. Baartmans and Siegel expertly marry fashion-forward clothes with traditional techniques. Classic silhouettes, contemporary cuts, luxurious fabrics and deep colours make for an outstanding debut solo show.

Categories ,1970s, ,Baartmans & Siegel, ,Blue, ,Cadbury, ,cinema, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Gabriela Romagna, ,Matt Bramford, ,menswear, ,Menswear Day, ,Milk Tray Man, ,Ones To Watch, ,Sportwear, ,tailoring, ,Trace PR, ,Vauxhall Fashion Scout, ,Warren Clarke

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Amelia’s Magazine | An Evening of Retro Hollywood Glamour at the Victoria & Albert Museum


Mumford & Sons illustration by Lana Hughes

5. Mumford & Sons
Mumford & Sons have had a special piece in my heart for a couple of years now. Having played their debut to death and enjoyed their live shows just as much, ampoule the band never fail to disappoint. When they arrived at the NME/Radio 1 Tent they packed out the space and the surrounding areas had hundreds of fans trying to capture the performance.

Despite not being able to see the band or even hear them over the crowd singing along, shop I still had hairs on my neck shooting up. I felt quite proud of the most modest band around who could not have put more effort in. They were made for moments like this. ‘Little Lion Man’ had never sounded so perfect and the new songs were greeted with the same enthusiasm from the crowd.


Weezer illustration by Natsuki Otani

4. Weezer
Sunday evening, abortion there was a chill in the air, ‘nu metal’ pioneers Limp Bizit had been and gone, the heavy rain had done the same. American geek rockers Weezer brought the sun to the main-stage along with a greatest hits set. They are a band I would never choose the listen to but I wouldn’t turn them off either.

Along with the classics, ‘Buddy Holly’, ‘Hash Pipe’ and ‘Beverly Hills’ the old timers covered Wheatus’ ‘Teenage Dirtbag’, MGMT’s ‘Kids’ and Lady GaGa’s ‘Pokerface’ where energetic front-man Rivers Cuomo sported a blonde wig whilst rolling about in the mud.


Mystery Jets illustration by Antonia Makes

3. Mystery Jets
Mystery Jets have been knocking about for sometime now with a collection of pop songs that would give Simon Cowell’s song-writing team a fright. Today wasn’t just about the hits, it was to see if the band could work main-stage after a few appearances on the smaller ones previously.

Not only did they get some sing-a-longs from the crowd but also got them dancing when Count & Sinden joined the band to play the party tune of the year, ‘After Dark’. It wasn’t just the stage that the band controlled as the lively band members spent a decent about of time amongst the crowd too.


The Libertines illustrated by Abi Daker

2. The Libertines
2002, the NME. Radio 1 Tent saw Peter Doherty, Carl Barat, John Hassall and Gary Powell play their only Reading Festival together. Since then The Libertines have performed twice without Peter, and since the group disbanded six years ago they have all appeared under different guises.

The main-stage witnessed the band play just their forth gig since their recent reformation. It was professional and energetic. I don’t think I have ever seen the band play that well; they meant business. Talk was kept to a minimum whilst thrashing out tune after tune, they were unfazed when they had to have a quick break whilst the crowd calmed down. A tear was shed when Pete and Carl, hugged and kissed onstage, I had been waiting too long for that moment.


Libertines illustration by Miss Pearl Grey aka Kellie B.


Arcade Fire, illustration by Jenny Robins.

1. Arcade Fire
It was Arcade Fire’s last Reading Festival performance that really won me over. Win Butler lead the seven piece on a emphatic set that included songs from all three records but it was the material from their latest, The Suburbs that really had the wow factor. Words struggle to some up this performance, it was more than just music, more like a religion.

Many thanks to our illustrators. Thumbnail illustration of Weezer by Julie Lee

Delorean by Clare Delaney

Opening on Wednesday, buy information pills PayneShurvell (in association with the anti-design festival) are for four weeks, buy holding four, visit this four day exhibitions. Titled 4×4, the gallery’s first show (Dream’s of Desire) curated by James Payne features artist Clare Delaney.

The gallery doors currently find themselves nestled between two cars customised by Clare for the Liverpool Biennale 5 and 6. The biennale sponsors appearance on the cars mimic the advertisers stack usually associated with F1, the spoilers added by the artist subvert a family car into those more usually seen running around F3 race tracks.

Upon entering PayneShurvell the viewer is greeted by the framed remnants of Delauney’s most recent performance. These beautifully presented receipts document an interaction between the artist and several unaware cashiers of major London Galleries. The act of consumerism encouraged within a gallery space is made apparent by the act of deciding and controlling the order Clare’s purchases passed through the tills .

Sensation by Clare Delaney

By presenting the receipts within frames along the crisp white walls of an exhibition space, the viewer is provided with the opportunity to reconsider the ‘everydayness’ usually associated with a receipt. Instead there is the time to muse over the thought, that (as discussed by James Payne in an introductory tour) at some point a designer would have been required to design the layout in accordance to the individual Galleries requirements.

This Wedneday (8th September) PayneShurvell will be open from 6-8 and Clare Delaney’s Dreams of Desire will be showing until Saturday 11th September.

Wednesday 15th September: sees the opening of an exhibition curated by Dermot O’Brien exploring the use of text and typography.

Ian Whittlesea, ‘Sol Sans Typeface’

Wednesday 22nd September: Edward Vince presents Matthew Robinson and himself in ‘How Am I Not Myself’.

325 by Edward Vince

Week four opens on the 29th September with the gallery transformed by the requirements of sound art in the last exhibition ‘Silencer’ curated by Mark Jackson. This exhibition will include ‘Not Playing,’ Corrado Morgana’s handicapped helicopter which despite the players best attempt will never take over. Lastly this show will include Audio Research Editions’ ‘Real English Tea Made Here,’ a sound piece which includes tapes by Willam S. Burroughs previously unheard in the UK.

Amelia’s Magazine had the pleasure of visiting a PayneShurvell preview of 4×4 on Friday and will be visiting the gallery each week to see how this ambitious project plays out. We recommend you do the same.

PayneShurvell: 16 Hewett Street, London, EC2A 3NN
4×4 runs from 6th September to 2nd October 2010.

Delorean by Clare Delaney

Opening on Wednesday, viagra approved PayneShurvell (in association with the anti-design festival) are for four weeks, seek holding four, four day exhibitions. Titled 4×4, the gallery’s first show (Dream’s of Desire) curated by James Payne features artist Clare Delaney.

The gallery doors currently find themselves nestled between two cars customised by Clare for the Liverpool Biennale 5 and 6. The biennale sponsors appearance on the cars mimic the advertisers stack usually associated with F1, the spoilers added by the artist subvert a family car into those more usually seen running around F3 race tracks.

Upon entering PayneShurvell the viewer is greeted by the framed remnants of Delauney’s most recent performance. These beautifully presented receipts document an interaction between the artist and several unaware cashiers of major London Galleries. The act of consumerism encouraged within a gallery space is made apparent by the act of deciding and controlling the order Clare’s purchases passed through the tills .

Sensation by Clare Delaney

By presenting the receipts within frames along the crisp white walls of an exhibition space, the viewer is provided with the opportunity to reconsider the ‘everydayness’ usually associated with a receipt. Instead there is the time to muse over the thought, that (as discussed by James Payne in an introductory tour) at some point a designer would have been required to design the layout in accordance to the individual Galleries requirements.

This Wedneday (8th September) PayneShurvell will be open from 6-8 and Clare Delaney’s Dreams of Desire will be showing until Saturday 11th September.

Wednesday 15th September: sees the opening of an exhibition curated by Dermot O’Brien exploring the use of text and typography.

Ian Whittlesea, ‘Sol Sans Typeface’

Wednesday 22nd September: Edward Vince presents Matthew Robinson and himself in ‘How Am I Not Myself’.

325 by Edward Vince

Week four opens on the 29th September with the gallery transformed by the requirements of sound art in the last exhibition ‘Silencer’ curated by Mark Jackson. This exhibition will include ‘Not Playing,’ Corrado Morgana’s handicapped helicopter which despite the players best attempt will never take over. Lastly this show will include Audio Research Editions’ ‘Real English Tea Made Here,’ a sound piece which includes tapes by Willam S. Burroughs previously unheard in the UK.

Amelia’s Magazine had the pleasure of visiting a PayneShurvell preview of 4×4 on Friday and will be visiting the gallery each week to see how this ambitious project plays out. We recommend you do the same.

PayneShurvell: 16 Hewett Street, London, EC2A 3NN
4×4 runs from 6th September to 2nd October 2010.

Delorean by Clare Delaney

4×4 the new exhibition at PayneShurvell opens on Wednesday, information pills in association with the anti-design festival. For four weeks, viagra dosage the gallery will be home to four seperate exhibitions each on view for four days only. The first show Clare Delaney’s Dream’s of Desire has been curated by James Payne.

The gallery doors find themselves nestled between two cars customised by Clare for the Liverpool Biennale 5 and 6. The biennale sponsors appearance on the cars mimic the advertisers stack usually associated with F1, the spoilers added by the artist subvert a family car into those more usually seen running around F3 race tracks.

Upon entering PayneShurvell the viewer is greeted by the framed remnants of Delauney’s most recent performance. These beautifully presented receipts document an interaction between the artist and several unaware cashiers of major London Galleries. The act of consumerism encouraged within a gallery space is made apparent by the act of deciding and controlling the order Clare’s purchases passed through the tills .

Sensation by Clare Delaney

By presenting the receipts within frames along the crisp white walls of an exhibition space, the viewer is provided with the opportunity to reconsider the ‘everydayness’ usually associated with a receipt. Instead there is the time to muse over the thought, that (as discussed by James Payne in an introductory tour) at some point a designer would have been required to design the layout in accordance to the individual Galleries requirements.

This Wedneday (8th September) PayneShurvell will be open from 6-8 and Clare Delaney’s Dreams of Desire will be showing until Saturday 11th September.

Wednesday 15th September: sees the opening of an exhibition curated by Dermot O’Brien exploring the use of text and typography.

Ian Whittlesea, ‘Sol Sans Typeface’

Wednesday 22nd September: Edward Vince presents Matthew Robinson and himself in ‘How Am I Not Myself’.

325 by Edward Vince

Week four opens on the 29th September with the gallery transformed by the requirements of sound art in the last exhibition ‘Silencer’ curated by Mark Jackson. This exhibition will include ‘Not Playing,’ Corrado Morgana’s handicapped helicopter which despite the players best attempt will never take over. Lastly this show will include Audio Research Editions’ ‘Real English Tea Made Here,’ a sound piece which includes tapes by Willam S. Burroughs previously unheard in the UK.

Amelia’s Magazine had the pleasure of visiting a PayneShurvell preview of 4×4 on Friday and will be visiting the gallery each week to see how this ambitious project plays out. We recommend you do the same.

PayneShurvell: 16 Hewett Street, London, EC2A 3NN
4×4 runs from 6th September to 2nd October 2010.

Delorean by Clare Delaney

4×4 the new exhibition at PayneShurvell opens on Wednesday, mind in association with the anti-design festival. For four weeks, this site the gallery will be home to four seperate exhibitions each on view for four days. The first has been curated by James Payne, features Clare Delaney’s Dream’s of Desire.

The gallery doors find themselves nestled between two cars customised by Clare for the Liverpool Biennale 5 and 6. The biennale sponsors appearance on the cars mimic the advertisers stack usually associated with F1, the spoilers added by the artist subvert a family car into those more usually seen running around F3 race tracks.

Upon entering PayneShurvell the viewer is greeted by the framed remnants of Delauney’s most recent performance. These beautifully presented receipts document an interaction between the artist and several unaware cashiers of major London Galleries. The act of consumerism encouraged within a gallery space is made apparent by the act of deciding and controlling the order Clare’s purchases passed through the tills .

Sensation by Clare Delaney

By presenting the receipts within frames along the crisp white walls of an exhibition space, the viewer is provided with the opportunity to reconsider the ‘everydayness’ usually associated with a receipt. Instead there is the time to muse over the thought, that (as discussed by James Payne in an introductory tour) at some point a designer would have been required to design the layout in accordance to the individual Galleries requirements.

This Wedneday (8th September) PayneShurvell will be open from 6-8 and Clare Delaney’s Dreams of Desire will be showing until Saturday 11th September.

Wednesday 15th September: sees the opening of an exhibition curated by Dermot O’Brien exploring the use of text and typography.

Ian Whittlesea, ‘Sol Sans Typeface’

Wednesday 22nd September: Edward Vince presents Matthew Robinson and himself in ‘How Am I Not Myself’.

325 by Edward Vince

Week four opens on the 29th September with the gallery transformed by the requirements of sound art in the last exhibition ‘Silencer’ curated by Mark Jackson. This exhibition will include ‘Not Playing,’ Corrado Morgana’s handicapped helicopter which despite the players best attempt will never take over. Lastly this show will include Audio Research Editions’ ‘Real English Tea Made Here,’ a sound piece which includes tapes by Willam S. Burroughs previously unheard in the UK.

Amelia’s Magazine had the pleasure of visiting a PayneShurvell preview of 4×4 on Friday and will be visiting the gallery each week to see how this ambitious project plays out. We recommend you do the same.

PayneShurvell: 16 Hewett Street, London, EC2A 3NN
4×4 runs from 6th September to 2nd October 2010.


Glamour at the V&A, no rx illustrated by Gabriel Ayala

It’s been a year for the bygone eras, view that’s for sure. First we had Vintage at Goodwood, then there’s an exhibition celebrating Horrockses 1950s style at the Fashion & Textile Museum, and now the V&A wants in on the action. Well it’s not strictly their first foray into the era; in fact it was all the way back in April that Grace Kelly: Style Icon hit down in London and has been fully booked ever since (well that’s how it seemed whenever I’ve tried to visit anyway.)


Illustration by Katherine Tromans

So what perfect timing for them to present…..drum roll please……an evening of “Retro Hollywood Glamour.” And it was at the end of August that I was whisked away to party with the likes of Alfred Hitchcock and Marilyn Monroe (metaphorically speaking) whilst the DJ spun the hits of yesteryear. All in all people were drinking champagne and were having a jolly spiffing time.

But probably the most spectacular aspect of the evening was the amount of people who committed and dressed up to the nines as their heroes. Men and women put on their most dapper suits and fullest skirts to party, and most made a pretty good job of it.


Illustration by Kellie Black

If you so fancied (and could cope with the queue!) your flowing locks could also be transformed into something quite spectacular (involving rollers and a lot of hairspray) and similarly a Hollywood makeover was available all within movie star tents boasting lighted mirrors in the grand entrance hall. The perfect way to complement your 1950s outfit and finally feel like a movie star.

And that wasn’t all for the events going on throughout the evening. Everything was thought of; from acting out radio plays, partaking in a screen printing workshop, doodling away with Daisy de Villeneuve or simply reminiscing over old movie trailers. Not bad for a night out at the museum.

As part of the Friday Lates this Summer at the V&A, it was a spectacular event. Maybe we can hope for the swinging 60s in the Autumn?

Retro Hollywood Glamour at the V&A: in Pictures






All photographs by Jemma Crow

Categories ,1950s, ,Alfred Hithcock, ,fashion, ,film, ,Gabriel Ayala, ,Glamour, ,Hollywood, ,Katherine Tromans, ,Kellie Black, ,london, ,Marilyn Monroe, ,retro, ,Silver screen, ,va, ,vintage

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