Amelia’s Magazine | Ashley Isham: London Fashion Week A/W 2013 Catwalk Review

Ashley Isham A/W 2013 by Gemma Cotterell
Ashley Isham A/W 2013 by Gemma Cotterell.

This season Ashley Isham decided to up his game, producing a collection that was a dramatic break from what we’ve come to expect from this lover of draped party frocks. So it was out with the floral chiffon and jewel coloured jersey and in with hard edged military inspired jackets and sharp shouldered shift dresses. Models strode out bearing intriguing headwear: glossy black visors tilted over their eyes and tied at the back with delicate ribbon under a towering top knot. The effect was one of high octane glamour infused with an attitude of powerful defiance.

Ashley Isham AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham A/W 2013 by Rosa Middleton
Ashley Isham A/W 2013 by Rosa Middleton.

Standout garments included a sumptuous brocade coat decorated in exotic red and orange flowers and a bright red double breasted jacket worn over a pencil skirt with an interesting circular detail in yellow piping. An all over tropical print on loungewear appeared a bit out of place for winter, but was nonetheless welcome relief in the midst of this predominantly sombre collection.

Ashley Isham AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham A/W 2013 by Gaarte
Ashley Isham A/W 2013 by Gaarte.

Not all of Ashley Isham‘s new found love of tailoring was successful: too much layering felt unnecessary and this was proof that peplums, capes, frills and panelling don’t always work well together. The few draped garments in this collection – khaki belted minidresses – were effortlessly simple as always, and the hard edged styling suited them well.

Ashley Isham AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham A/W 2013 by Gaarte
Ashley Isham A/W 2013 by Gaarte.

For the finale Isham reverted to type, sending out a series of sweeping floor length dresses in rich browns topped with gunmetal embroidery, the kind that swish threateningly around ankles and cause tottering models to trip and swoop. The closing dress featured a huge skirt with an intriguing abstract grey rippled effect: I’ll be intrigued to see what Ashley Isham will do with this new exploratory vibe next season.

Ashley Isham AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashey Isham A/W 2013 by Isher Dhiman
Ashey Isham A/W 2013 by Isher Dhiman.

Ashley Isham AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Ashley Isham A/W 2013. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,Ashley Isham, ,draping, ,Gaarte, ,Gemma Cotterell, ,Isher Dhiman, ,military, ,Rosa Middleton

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