Amelia’s Magazine | Carlotta Actis Barone: London Fashion Week A/W 2013 Catwalk Review

Carlotta by Isabelle Mattern
Carlotta Actis Barone A/W 2013 by Isabelle Mattern

Carlotta Actis Barone took a surprising new direction for her A/W 2013 show at London Fashion Week: last season she sent ballet dancers in giant brightly coloured wigs down the catwalk, but this time she stuck to the basic format and colour was replaced with this season’s biggest trend: simple monochrome. Instead of ruffles and elaborate boning there were chic figure hugging pieces with cut out details. Pieces were chic and elegant, structured and loose fitting, but in true Carlotta Actis Barone style her designs celebrated the female form; curves were enhanced by structured shoulders and sinuous tailoring at the bust and hip.

Carlotta Actis Barone AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone by Chloe Douglass
Carlotta Actis Barone A/W 2013 by Chloe Douglass

Models were elegant with 1930’s inspired chignons and a sassy stride. Gossamer light chiffon hung in pleats to reveal perfect pins, or in daggered panels to reveal a subtle flash of chest. Constructed dresses featured black and white geometric tailoring in reference to Cubism and Dadaism. Contrasting textures were used to represent the complexity of the female mind, and this beautiful collection certainly complimented the fairer sex.

Carlotta Actis Barone AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta by Angela Lamb
Carlotta Actis Barone A/W 2013 by Angela Lamb

Carlotta Actis Barone’s hallmark bodysuit included the work of artist Manuela Corti and was adorned with the slogans ‘Fashion Forgery’ and ‘Fashion Clockwork’. This appears to be a statement about the copycat culture which is rife in the industry, but luckily this is not an issue that Carlotta faces, since her collections are surprisingly different each season and certainly do not lack originality.

Carlotta Actis Barone AW 2013
Carlotta Actis Barone AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone by Pia Bramley
Carlotta Actis Barone A/W 2013 by Pia Bramley

Carlotta Actis Barone AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta AW13 by Isher Dhiman
Carlotta Actis Barone A/W 2013 by Isher Dhiman

Carlotta Actis Barone AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Carlotta Actis Barone AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,Angela Lamb, ,Carlotta Actis Barone, ,Chiffon, ,Chloe Douglass, ,Cubism, ,Dadaism, ,Fashion Clockwork, ,Fashion Forgery, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,geometric, ,Isabelle Mattern, ,Isher Dhiman, ,Manuela Corti, ,Pia Bramley, ,tailoring

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Amelia’s Magazine | Carmen: A Life in Fashion at the Fashion Space Gallery


Carmen Dell’Orefice by Joanna Gniady

I can’t bear having my photograph taken. That’s why I’m not a model. That’s the only reason. But imagine having your photograph taken consecutively for sixty years, by some of the greatest photographer that ever lived. It’s quite the achievement when you really think about it.

I’m taking about Carmen Dell’Orrefice, affectionately referred to as ‘the world’s most enduring supermodel’. A new exhibition at the London College of Fashion‘s Fashion Space Gallery proves why Carmen deserves that accolade.


All photography by Matt Bramford

It’s rare to find exhibitions that celebrate the career of a model rather than the photographers that document them. In recent years, grand masters like Avedon and Penn have been honoured with mammoth exhibitions, so this collaboration between LCF and David Downton is a welcome break, and it’s been put together with feeling (Dowton is a close personal friend of Dell’Orefice) and no stage of her career is left unrepresented.


Carmen Dell’Orefice by Celine Elliott

Carmen Dell’Orefice was born on Welfare Island in 1931 to an Italian father and Hungarian mother. Her first modelling duty was at the age of 13 – Carmen is now 80 and still modelling. As she moved around the room, talking to Colin McDowell, Frances Corner OBE (head of the LCF) I simply couldn’t take my eyes off her. She’s one of those lucky buggers that have matured with grace and elegance and maintained her unique looks without going anywhere near Wildenstein.

Looking around the room at the works is like an encyclopaedia of the great fashion photographers – Penn, Beaton, Coffin, Avedon, Derujinsky, her second husband Richard Heimann, Parkinson; it’s wonderfully exhausting. Reporductions of Vogue and Harper’s covers are mounted on some walls, while others hold photographs ranging from her frolicking in the Bahamas (shot by Parkinson) and basking in Hawaii (shot by Derujinsky).

The crescendo is a stunning selection of portraits commissioned especially by LCF and photographed by Ali Mahdavi. I’ve purposefully omitted any images of these photographs in the hope that you’ll go along and view the exhibition yourself. They are fresh and classical at the same time – there’s something intimately special about them. Please go.

Categories ,Carmen Dell’Orefice, ,Cecil Beaton, ,Clifford Coffin, ,Colin McDowell, ,David Downton, ,exhibition, ,fashion, ,Fashion Space Gallery, ,Frances Corner OBE, ,Gleb Derujinsky, ,Harper’s Bazaar, ,Irving Penn, ,LCF, ,London College of Fashion, ,Norman Parkinson, ,photography, ,review, ,Richard Avedon, ,Richard Heimann, ,vogue, ,Wildenstein

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Amelia’s Magazine | Charlotte Taylor: London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Preview

Charlotte Taylor Bonsai Wide Leg Trousers by Gilly Rochester

Charlotte Taylor S/S 2012 Wide Leg Trousers by Gilly Rochester

It was last year that a good friend introduced me to the brilliant and uplifting work of Charlotte Taylor. As I leafed through her A/W 2010 look book, advice I was hooked by the individualism – a collection of stand out, repeated prints, but within a tailored and feminine design. It was a unique combination of tweed, navy and printed penguins, which worked through heritage driven shapes such as capes, shift dresses and swinging hemlines.

Charlotte Taylor Fishermen Skirt and Blouse by Sam Parr

Charlotte Taylor S/S 2012 Fishermen Skirt and Blouse by Sam Parr

I knew I had to get my hands on a ticket to go and see her next show. Charlotte was presenting her S/S 2011 collection as part of the Vauxhall Fashion Scout’s ‘Ones To Watch’ schedule. A mature transgression was made, but it kept the clear signature established in her first collection. It was quirky, but the English themes of grandma’s and heritage were displaced by a modern feel – bad robots, cut-out panels, younger shapes and a sporty aesthetic. A fresher palette of rust and denim blue sat alongside the yellows and creams from A/W 2010, with the luxurious silks only adding to its appeal.

Impressed and wanting to know more, I asked Charlotte if she would do an interview with me for Amelia’s Magazine. Unfortunately, she had to decline my offer. There were changes in the business, and as it stood, the label was on hold for the immediate future. I was disappointed that this collection would not go into production, and that the label, it appeared, would not continue.

Charlotte Taylor Bee Blouse by Gilly Rochester

Charlotte Taylor S/S 2012 Bee Blouse by Gilly Rochester

So it was with delight that I came across Charlotte’s work again in June this year. Her blog was up and running, and she had produced an A/W 2011 collection. It is a rich splendour of jewel colours and madcap prints, such as ants, elephants, lobsters, and the carried over penguin. The colours clashed, the soft silks were still there, and this time tied up with an exotic feel that was inspired by a trip to Kenya that Charlotte had taken. The label had been stripped back to its signature feature – the prints. Rethought, and redefined, it was great to see the label back and doing business.

Charlotte Taylor Fisherman Shorts by Alejandra Espino

Charlotte Taylor S/S 2012 Fisherman Shorts by Alejandra Espino

From this Friday, Charlotte will be exhibiting her new S/S 2012 collection at London Fashion Week. She let me have a preview of the new range, and answered some of my questions.

Charlotte Taylor is back after a season out. Where have you been, and are you excited to be showing again at London Fashion Week?
Well I didn’t actually take a proper season out… For S/S 2011 we decided not to go forward with production. I felt that the label needed more of an identifiable product and image and that it wasn’t portraying the message that I wanted it to. That’s why I decided to focus on the prints. Hence A/W 2011 was a print and colour frenzie! I decided not to show the collection at fashion week and instead to go around to many of our key retailers and show it in person to the owners and the buyers to get their direct feedback. It was a very useful experience and I also love building relationships with people, emails and telephones are not personable.

I am however really excited about showing at LFW and being back in the buzz of it. Last year I went to look around the BFC space at Somerset House and I had to be escorted around and then out the door. It felt a million miles away!

?What can we expect in the new S/S 2012 collection? What are the influences?
It’s influenced by Japanese Art and Culture, Bee Keeping and Fishing. It’s very colourful and it’s moved on from last season, whilst still retaining a strong Charlotte Taylor look. I would say that it has grown up a fraction, but only a fraction!??

Charlotte Taylor Fisherman Midi Dress by Sam Parr

Charlotte Taylor S/S 2012 Fishermen Midi Dress by Sam Parr

What are the main techniques and materials that you have used in the collection?
Well it’s all print focused again but I’ve used the same prints in different colourways and scales and combined them within the same piece. I have also used Crepe back satin, which has a high shine along side a matt Double Georgette to add further contrast. The silhouettes are simple, elegant and their wearabilty factor is deeply considered. With the bold aspect of the prints, elegant and simple silhouettes are vital.??

You’re going to be launching a collection for Anthropologie USA in October 2011 – can you tell me any more about this?
Yes! We are launching our diffusion line with Anthropologie which will have a slightly lower price point and will be sold in their stores in the States. It’s a fantastic collaboration as we fit perfectly – both print lovers! They are also a fantastic team and I have complete creative control, which is sometimes not the case in such unities.

Charlotte Taylor Bee Jumpsuit by Alejandra Espino

Charlotte Taylor S/S 2012 Bee Jumpsuit by Alejandra Espino

What else does 2012 hold for Charlotte Taylor?
Well – who knows! But we would love to expand our reach abroad….especially Asia as we feel it could work so well out there. I would also love to expand our product range but I won’t get too specific about that just yet! We do a lot of planning for the business but I try not to plan ahead too much design wise. Who knows what ill be doing this time next year?!?!

Thank you to Charlotte for the sneak peak of the new collection. Charlotte Taylor will be presenting her S/S 2012 collection in Somerset House, at the Exhibition for London Fashion Week, September 16th – 20th 2011.

Categories ,Alejandra Espino, ,Charlotte Taylor, ,fashion, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Gilly Rochester, ,London Fashion Week, ,Ones To Watch, ,Sam Parr, ,Womenswear

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Amelia’s Magazine | A Chat With Christina Brodie

she and him cover thumbnail review volume two

I suppose I should let Zooey Deschanel go by now. I was so young at the time, viagra dosage a mumbling, shy teenager with a crappy haircut (admittedly, the hair hasn’t improved much) when I first developed a bit of a pathetic fancy for those big blue eyes of hers – I can’t say my admiration of her looks hasn’t dimmed, admittedly (and somewhat shallowly), but I’ve grown wary of her acting ability. Being typecast is something some, if not most, actors attempt to avoid, yet Zooey thrives on playing what’s referred to in critical circles as the ‘Manic Pixie Dream Girl’ role – a bit kooky, a bit insane, and just a tad an absolute fiction of a person, one who exists in the minds of fevered male youth everywhere. Her purpose is to bring the lead male out of his emotional shell, to embrace life, to seize the day (and, presumably, to act as therapist and counsellor and tissue) – to be, in effect, a nothing of a person but a blank canvas who’s just waiting for a chance to listen to all the moaning and despairing and general torment of the soul that characterises the most privileged demographic group in history, the Young White Western Man of the 21st Century.

So – as her roles keep her locked up in a safe little box, a box that doesn’t allow too much range (even (500) Days of Summer, whilst specifically a film about how real life doesn’t conform to the Manic Pixie Dream Girl stereotype, was hardly a stretch), I’m in danger of losing sight of Zooey Deschanel, Actress. All I will have left is Zooey Deschanel, Attractive Celebrity. Being left with that would just be unfair to her as an individual, considering how lovely she is an all – though let’s not concentrate on how I know this, or how I met her, or how her height disappointed me, or how her strapless dress was perhaps a brave choice for the evening but she rocked it admirably – let’s leave that for now. OK? OK. What we’re talking about today is She & Him’s Volume 2, the second album from the musical collaboration between Zooey and folk singer-songwriter M. Ward. Their first, the aptly-titled Volume 1, was an excellent stab at breathing new air into 60s country-folk, and Volume 2 is a further step forward. What it also does is reaffirm, for little old neurotic me, that Zooey Deschanel is a very ably-talented singer and songwriter. Zooey Deschanel, Artist, if you will.

Halfway through first track ‘Thieves’ and the blueprints from Volume 1 are still there – gentle drumbeats, an electric guitar-line with a lovely country twang, and Zooey’s lilting voice that’s as sweet as a glass of freshly-squeezed fruit juice (I’m an orange man, myself, but other fruits such as banana or kiwi would be acceptable alternatives). It can feel a bit like well-trodden territory, but the compositions are just accomplished enough to avoid this (though, of course, one has to ask how long this formula – and it is a formula – can keep working).

M. Ward still stays mostly in the background, leaving the spotlight to his leading lady, except for a notable appearance on a cover of NRBQ’s ‘Ridin’ In My Car’, here reinterpreted as a duet. The other cover here, the Milton Kellem-penned standard ‘Gonna Get Along Without You Now’, also manages to be reinterpreted in such a way that’s not hugely different to the more memorable versions by singers like Skeeter Davis – things are shifted around only slightly to achieve that She & Him vibe. Zooey’s recurring lyrical theme here is of losing or dumping a man but being the happier for it, so the background hums and ahs on this cover totally fit between the ballad to Californian loving that is ‘Home’ and the filled-with-longing ‘ba-da-da-dum’ chorus on ‘Me and You’.

‘In The Sun’, also a single, fizzes and bumps along thanks to Ward letting his guitar do a little bit more work than on Volume 1 – I think it can be safely said that he’s let himself show a little bit more here. Despite mentioning earlier that, yes, he’s still largely a background figure, the actual music that carries Zooey’s lyrics so delicately is still mostly his work, and there are some more flourishes, a few more touches of individual energy that come peeping through. He’s got a very distinctive husk of a voice, and it would be nice if he could show us a bit more, but, as it is, Zooey still does well on her own. You can hear the smile on her face when she sings, “why do I always want to sock it to you hard?” on ‘Over and Over Again’ – she plays the role of the strong-willed woman admirably, and these are most determinedly not laments. It’s a sassy album at its heart.

I suppose the main lesson to be learned from She & Him is that soft rock isn’t a terrible sin. Sure, it’s repetitive, but when the basic framework is so enchanting (especially on closer ‘If You Can’t Sleep’, which has a fair shout at being the most beautiful lullabies you’ll hear this year

I suppose I should let Zooey Deschanel go by now. I was so young at the time, buy more about a mumbling, find shy teenager with a crappy haircut (admittedly, pills the hair hasn’t improved much) when I first developed a bit of a pathetic fancy for those big blue eyes of hers – I can’t say my admiration of her looks hasn’t dimmed, admittedly (and somewhat shallowly), but I’ve grown wary of her acting ability. Being typecast is something some, if not most, actors attempt to avoid, yet Zooey thrives on playing what’s referred to in critical circles as the ‘Manic Pixie Dream Girl’ role – a bit kooky, a bit insane, and just a tad an absolute fiction of a person, one who exists in the minds of fevered male youth everywhere. Her purpose is to bring the lead male out of his emotional shell, to embrace life, to seize the day (and, presumably, to act as therapist and counsellor and tissue) – to be, in effect, a nothing of a person but a blank canvas who’s just waiting for a chance to listen to all the moaning and despairing and general torment of the soul that characterises the most privileged demographic group in history, the Young White Western Man of the 21st Century.

So – as her roles keep her locked up in a safe little box, a box that doesn’t allow too much range (even (500) Days of Summer, whilst specifically a film about how real life doesn’t conform to the Manic Pixie Dream Girl stereotype, was hardly a stretch), I’m in danger of losing sight of Zooey Deschanel, Actress. All I will have left is Zooey Deschanel, Attractive Celebrity. Being left with that would just be unfair to her as an individual, considering how lovely she is an all – though let’s not concentrate on how I know this, or how I met her, or how her height disappointed me, or how her strapless dress was perhaps a brave choice for the evening but she rocked it admirably – let’s leave that for now. OK? OK. What we’re talking about today is She & Him’s Volume 2, the second album from the musical collaboration between Zooey and folk singer-songwriter M. Ward. Their first, the aptly-titled Volume 1, was an excellent stab at breathing new air into 60s country-folk, and Volume 2 is a further step forward. What it also does is reaffirm, for little old neurotic me, that Zooey Deschanel is a very ably-talented singer and songwriter. Zooey Deschanel, Artist, if you will.

Halfway through first track ‘Thieves’ and the blueprints from Volume 1 are still there – gentle drumbeats, an electric guitar-line with a lovely country twang, and Zooey’s lilting voice that’s as sweet as a glass of freshly-squeezed fruit juice (I’m an orange man, myself, but other fruits such as banana or kiwi would be acceptable alternatives). It can feel a bit like well-trodden territory, but the compositions are just accomplished enough to avoid this (though, of course, one has to ask how long this formula – and it is a formula – can keep working).

M. Ward still stays mostly in the background, leaving the spotlight to his leading lady, except for a notable appearance on a cover of NRBQ’s ‘Ridin’ In My Car’, here reinterpreted as a duet. The other cover here, the Milton Kellem-penned standard ‘Gonna Get Along Without You Now’, also manages to be reinterpreted in such a way that’s not hugely different to the more memorable versions by singers like Skeeter Davis – things are shifted around only slightly to achieve that She & Him vibe. Zooey’s recurring lyrical theme here is of losing or dumping a man but being the happier for it, so the background hums and ahs on this cover totally fit between the ballad to Californian lovin’ that is ‘Home’ and the filled-with-longing ‘ba-da-da-dum’ chorus on ‘Me and You’.

In The Sun’, also a single, fizzes and bumps along thanks to Ward letting his guitar do a little bit more work than on Volume 1 – I think it can be safely said that he’s let himself show a little bit more here. Despite mentioning earlier that, yes, he’s still largely a background figure, the actual music that carries Zooey’s lyrics so delicately is still mostly his work, and there are some more flourishes, a few more touches of individual energy that come peeping through. He’s got a very distinctive husk of a voice, and it would be nice if he could show us a bit more, but, as it is, Zooey still does well on her own. You can hear the smile on her face when she sings, “why do I always want to sock it to you hard?” on ‘Over and Over Again’ – she plays the role of the strong-willed woman admirably, and these are most determinedly not laments. At its heart this album is about sassiness.

I suppose the main lesson to be learned from She & Him is that soft rock isn’t a terrible sin. Sure, it’s repetitive, but when the basic framework is so enchanting (especially on closer ‘If You Can’t Sleep’, which has a fair shout at being the most beautiful lullabies you’ll hear this year). There’s something comforting about familiarity, and here that comfort comes in spades.

Photograph by Matt Bramford

When Christina Brodie’s luxury glove range popped up in the fashion inbox, this web I knew that I’d like to interview the woman behind these vibrant and unique items. I had no idea what I was letting myself in for, though – the list of activities Christina immerses herself in leaves me breathless.

I arranged to meet Christina for breakfast in Leon at Bankside – it’s pretty early as we both have our day jobs to get to. I order us some drinks and we take a seat, and it’s immediately obvious, as Christina launches into conversation, that we’re going to have a lot to talk about.

I’d like to set Christina and Amelia up on a date – not of the romantic nature, but I think they’d get along like a house on fire. They have a lot in common.

It’s inspirational to meet somebody with such a strong work ethic and a dedication to all they do, and lord knows how Christina finds time to enjoy herself, with so many things on the burner. The fact is, she doesn’t. ‘My social life goes out of the window,’ she tells me, ‘it’s pretty difficult to manage. Although I am pretty organised’ she continues.

Christina doesn’t do collections – she does mini-launches because she doesn’t want to contain herself within the constraints of the fashion cycle. Plus, she’s bursting with ideas. ‘When I design a collection,’ she announces, ‘I already have ideas for the next four or five.’


Illustration by Antonia Parker

Her gloves are vibrant and bold, taking the iconic driving glove and reworking them for 21st century fashion. Using graphic prints, inspired by graffiti and geometry, the gloves boast wings and flaps and are real statement pieces.

Why gloves? Well, I’ll let Christina explain. ‘I experimented with a range of accessories – belts, bags, and so on. I found that gloves haven’t really been explored, so I set my sights on breaking this. I have a fascination for small, delicate things, and I adore soft fabrics.’ Experimenting with the properties of leather is Christina’s forte, and her adoration for graphic and comic art shines through in this particular collection (sorry, mini-collection).

The graphic patterns come from a very familiar place. ‘They’re actually abstractions of my logo,’ she tells me. The collection (sorry, mini-collection – this is getting difficult!) is split into three areas – ‘Super’ ‘Crazy’ and ‘Bow’, which are pretty self explanatory. Elements of each pair of gloves are inspired by all sorts of things. ‘My ideas are spontaneous,’ Christina continues, ‘they’re never logical.’

Who or what inspires Christina? I suggest there’s a hint of Lady Gaga about the gloves. ‘I think she’s necessary,’ Christina states, diplomatically. ‘I think what she does has been around for a while, but it’s great that she’s brought the creativity of Gareth Pugh and others into the mainstream. And I love her bold use of colour – red, black – they’re great.’ Gaga’s exagarrated, bold shapes have been insiraptional to Christina, and it’s these geometric silhouettes that are evident in the, erm, collection (oh, sod it.)

Her favourite designer is Christian Lacroix. ‘I love his use of colour,’ Christina tells me. “I don’t think the British use colour naturally – I think it’s a Northern Europe thing, maybe because of the availability of light. We tend to stick with muted colours. The French and the Spanish use colour so much more effectively.’ She LOVES colour, especially rainbow colours. We chat about the demise of Lacroix’s label. ‘I’ve read that women don’t buy his clothes because of the colours, an to be commercially viable you should use beiges, baby pinks, baby blues,’ she says. I see a serious streak coming. ‘I’m damned if I’m going to mute my colours for commercial viability!’

Christina is glad she isn’t part of a debt-riddled, multi-million pound operation. ‘I read how much debt McQueen‘s label was/is in, and I was astounded,’ she states. ‘I guess with all the hangers-on and marketing, you run up huge costs.’ This is where her relief originates. ‘I like working on my own. While it’s time consuming, I do the marketing and so on myself – so it’s free.’ She likes it this way. ‘I like being involved in every stage. It’s a control thing. It’s precious to me.’

Christina is a classically trained pianist and also trained as a botanical artist, in which she boasts 3 books to her name. She writes music, performs occasionally and has an acoustic album set for release at the end of the month. Yikes! I was fascinated to discover that Christina had met our future King, Prince Charles. ‘He was lovely!’ she remembers. ‘He was very encouraging. He was fascinated by my work’. The art, I presume, not the gloves!

Does Christina see herself as a sort of Gaga-esque fashion/music collaborator? Not really. ‘I like to keep things separate,’ she tells me. ‘It’s not a conscious thing, but my music and fashion tend not to mix.’

She began writing songs seriously about 4-5 years ago, and while she has an admiration for heavily-produced music, it’s a more acoustic sound that appeals to her. ‘There’s an art to writing songs that sound good heavily-produced, and there’s an art to writing songs that sound good acoustically,’ she informs me, ‘and I much prefer the latter’. She doesn’t get chance to listen to music that often, but when she does, she gets out to see it, rather than sticking on a CD. ‘I think to find out what’s going on [in music] you have to go and see it, you have to hear what people are playing’.

When she does listen to music, she adores Kate Bush (whom she’s happy to announce she’s compared to when she performs), Crowded House and Julian Cope, seventies rock band Heart and The Bangles, both of which she remembers listening to at the age of 14 ‘with a HUGE perm!’

With so much going on, I play devil’s advocate, and ask that if she could only explore one of her fields, what it would be. ‘It would be the gloves,’ she reveals quickly. ‘I am really passionate about this at the moment, so I guess it would be these. I feel like I’ve explored all I can with music, and the books!’ She enjoys the new challenges that creating the gloves bring. ‘I do keep one eye on fashion, but at the same time it’s important to keep things personal.’ She continues, ‘I’ve learned that things don’t move at the speed of light, so I’m enjoying this period of self-exploration.’

Christina also digs classical music, particularly the grandiosity of Beethoven, and the Godlike influence of Bach. ‘I don’t see myself as a religious person,’ she tells me, ‘but I like to think that God operates, through everything I do.’

Surely there’s time for some Christina-time? How does she relax? ‘I love to read – especially Dylan Thomas‘ poetry, and I have a new book by Oswald Spengler that I’m looking forward to.’ ‘I’m having some Crash Time this week actually’ she says, relieved. ‘I think you have to, or you burn out.’

Categories ,botany, ,Christina Brodie, ,comic art, ,fashion, ,Gloves, ,Graphic Patterns, ,Lady Gaga, ,leather, ,Leon Bankside, ,Prince Charles

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Amelia’s Magazine | David Koma: London Fashion Week A/W 2013 Catwalk Review


David Koma A/W 2013 by Krister Selin

David Koma is a previous NEWGEN winner and continues to attract much attention with his sculptural pieces that push the boundaries of future fashion. It comes as no surprise, then, that Koma is again a worthy recipient of the Fashion Forward award.

These Saturday night shows are always massively oversubscribed, and after an epic cycle from Bow to Somerset House I was in no mood for the bunfight that would no doubt ensue. I managed to get a fairly decent spot on the end of the second row, but a woman stood right in the gap blocking any chance of taking a decent picture. When I asked politely if she planned to spend the duration of the show there, she looked as if I’d asked her if she wouldn’t mind getting her tits out.

There were bodies everywhere. Burly security guards patrolled up and down, barking orders at people with standing tickets to squash in as tightly as possible. As I patiently waited for some show action in the hope there wouldn’t be any nasty accidents, I surveyed the crowd and noticed these three hot blondes (above). Who are they? One of The Saturdays? All of The Saturdays? They garnered lots of media attention as audience photographers clambered over themselves to get a shot, creaming their proverbial drawers in the process.


All photography by Matt Bramford

The invite – my favourite this A/W 2013 season – was a black rectangle with a spot-laminate finish to look like vinyl. I imagined that this a gave clue to Koma‘s inspiration for this particular collection, but had no idea how literally he would take things…


David Koma A/W 2013 by Sylwia Szyszka

While Koma has never strayed away from a futuristic direction, there was definitely a more progressive feel to this collection. Koma‘s angular lines that have become his signature were scarce, this time the beautiful form of 12″ vinyl was replicated across every single garment. Circular leathers encased models around the neck and waist, provided structure for bell-shaped skirts, supplied interest in sexy skintight pieces and formed high-gloss shapes across busts and bottoms. Zips joined garments together, providing even more cyclical shapes.


David Koma A/W 2013 by Laura Hickman

Juxtaposing fabrics were married together – another Koma signature – with high-gloss leathers mixed with rich wools and cottons. Laser-cut leather, flock print, organza and quilting were all fused together in harmony.


David Koma A/W 2013 by Krister Selin

Koma‘s relationship with the colour black isn’t in any danger, with the opening looks relying entirely on fashion’s favourite colour. This season, though, welcome blasts of nude, bright red (my favourite pieces), teal and deep blue allowed for a linear colour palette that worked effortlessly almost to the point of unnoticeable. Models were styled with simple centre partings, long, thin ponytails and vertiginous heels, in collaboration once again with Alain Quilici.


David Koma A/W 2013 by Sylwia Szyszka

It takes a talented designer to take such ephemeral inspiration and produce a cohesive and exciting collection without verging on pantomime. David Koma is the nuts.

Categories ,12″, ,A/W 2013, ,A/W’13, ,british fashion council, ,catwalk, ,David Koma, ,fashion, ,Fashion-forward, ,Krister Selin, ,Laura Hickman, ,London Fashion Week, ,Matt Bramford, ,Newgen, ,review, ,Somerset House, ,Sylwia Szyszka, ,Vinyl

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Amelia’s Magazine | Dora Abodi: London Fashion Week S/S 2015 Catwalk Review

Dora Abodi by Simon McLaren
Dora Abodi by Simon McLaren.

Dora Abodi was a new name to me. She founded her label in 2009 in Hungary and currently divides her time between Milan and Budapest. I was pleased to note that she doesn’t work with fur and only uses materials from an ethical origin, working with craftspeople to achieve a fine finish on garments and accessories.

Dora Abodi Spring Summer 2015, illustration by Rosa Crepax and Carlotta Crepax, Illustrated Moodboard for Amelia's Magazine
Dora Abodi SS15 by Rosa Crepax and Carlotta Crepax of Illustrated Moodboard.

I loved the cardboard cut out invitation to this show (not enough interesting invites in these days of austerity…) which was covered in graphic photo generated patterns that appeared on a series of belted dresses, and panelled crop tops worn with flared skirts. She’s obviously a fan of Jonathan Saunders, Belle Sauvage and kin, but gave this collection a gothic spice of its own with slick black mullets, dark eyes and swishing curved embellishments reminiscent of birds wings. The show closed with a stunning ensemble that would not be out of place as inspiration for my 10th anniversary open brief, calling to mind animal spirits and shamans.

Scroll down to view the video.

Dora Abodi SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Dora Abodi SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Dora Abodi SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Dora Abodi SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Dora Abodi SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Dora Abodi SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Dora Abodi SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Dora Abodi SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
Dora Abodi SS 2015 photo by Amelia Gregory
All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,Budapest, ,catwalk, ,Dora Abodi, ,Hungarian, ,Hungary, ,Illustrated Moodboard, ,Jonathan Saunders, ,London Fashion Week, ,Milan, ,review, ,Rosa Crepax and Carlotta Crepax, ,S/S 2015, ,Simon Mclaren, ,SS15

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Amelia’s Magazine | Ekaterina Kukhareva: London Fashion Week S/S 2013 Catwalk Review

Ekaterina Kukhareva by S/S 2013 by Shy Illustrations
Ekaterina Kukhareva by S/S 2013 by Sheilagh Tighe aka Shy Illustrations.

Ukranian born Ekaterina Kukhareva is a Central Saint Martins knitwear graduate, about whom I knew nothing before this show, staged on Sunday at Freemasons’ Hall. Her psychedelic take on St Tropez high style was inspired by Brigitte Bardot, with geometric patterns gleaned from Egyptian hieroglyphs and applied to complex woven jacquards and intarsias in a range of light weight resortwear.

Ekaterina Kukhareva by S/S 2013 photography by Amelia Gregory
Ekaterina Kukhareva by S/S 2013 photography by Amelia Gregory
Ekaterina Kukhareva by S/S 2013 photography by Amelia Gregory
Ekaterina Kukhareva by S/S 2013 photography by Amelia Gregory
The designs took on a retro 60s feel in sugary shades of pink and lilac teamed with a lovely denim indigo blue. Acidic purple and orange made for a particularly eye catching combination when used for a trouser set, worn with swinging beaded earrings and contrasting blue and orange platform sandals. Somehow the briefcase that the model swung at her side seemed out of place: I can’t imagine many people wearing this to the office. Even more stunning was the knitted maxi dress that featured a huge intarsia pattern: a bright fuchsia cross across the bodice and a bold zig zag design down the centre of the skirt. The American stars and stripes appeared to have influenced the pattern on a cutout pink white and blue swimsuit and the matching beach cardigan that it was worn with. It’s not often that you see an entire range of outfits created from scratch using home spun fabrics: there were some stunning designs to be found within this aspirational collection.

Ekaterina Kukhareva by S/S 2013 photography by Amelia Gregory
Ekaterina Kukhareva by S/S 2013 photography by Amelia Gregory
Ekaterina Kukhareva by S/S 2013 photography by Amelia Gregory
Ekaterina Kukhareva by S/S 2013 photography by Amelia Gregory
Ekaterina Kukhareva by S/S 2013 photography by Amelia Gregory
Ekaterina Kukhareva by S/S 2013. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Ekaterina Kukhareva by S/S 2013 by Shy Illustrations
Ekaterina Kukhareva by S/S 2013 by Sheilagh Tighe aka Shy Illustrations.

Categories ,Brigitte Bardot, ,Central Saint Martins, ,Ekaterina Kukhareva, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Goddess in St. Tropez, ,Intarsia, ,Jacquard, ,knitwear, ,lfw, ,S/S 2013, ,Sheilagh Tighe, ,Shy Illustrations, ,Ukranian

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Amelia’s Magazine | Asli Polat AW15: London Fashion Week Catwalk Review

Asli Polat AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 1
American designer Asli Polat took reference from a host of sources for AW15, culminating in a small but concise collection shown in the underground vaults of the RSA.

Asli Polat AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 3
Asli Polat AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 2
Asli Polat AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 4
Asli Polat AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 6
Asli Polat AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 5a
The show opened with several outfits made up in the same retro coloured plaid applied to different fabrics, including a mohair tweed. Shapes encompassed sweet rodeo detailed dresses, cute mini skirts, hooded sweat tops and a plasticised parka with teddybear fur details on pockets thanks to a partnership with the iconic teddybear manufacturer Steiff. This unusual choice of garment fabric was used in further outfits, most notably a couple of eye catching patchwork shift dresses, with matching bold tangerine eye shadow. Definitely a designer to watch.

Asli Polat AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 7
Asli Polat AW15-photo by Amelia Gregory 8
Asli Polat Steiff teddybear Jay Pinxie
Jay Pinxie Turnbull with a Steiff teddybear, our gift on the front row. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,American, ,Asli Polat, ,AW15, ,Catwalk review, ,Jay Pinxie Turnbull, ,London Fashion Week, ,retro, ,Steiff, ,Teddybear

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Amelia’s Magazine | Basharatyan V: London Fashion Week S/S 2014 Catwalk Review

Illustration by Claire Kearns

Basharatyan V by Claire Kearns

Basharatyan V definitely provoked some raised eyebrows with her latest collection. This show was a bold affair, with models sporting short modish twenties style wigs and very strong brows. The collection’s title, Frida, promised some striking shapes and colours and this was provided in the form of some eye-catching vivid hues. The show kicked off at pace, offering a mixture of bold tailoring and contrasting softer silk dresses. The strong styling did help pull together a collection that felt a little disjointed. The dresses, which included a beautiful long black number, were  the stand-out features of the show. A pristine pencil skirt and cropped-top combination and some strong lines, to an extent, made up for an ill-judged harem pant and lacklustre halter-neck here and there. This was a show of highs and lows to say the least. The introduction of slightly unusual faded prints and a willingness to play with fabric, cut and tailoring (perhaps a little too much in places) shows that this Russian designer’s gaining confidence. With this collection there was certainly no lack of vision which, if refined, means it will be intriguing to see what’s next from Basharatyan V.

Basharatyan V SS 2014-photo by Amelia Gregory

Basharatyan v London Fashion Week

Bashratyan London Fashion Week

Bashratyan v at London Fashion Week

Basharatyan London Fashion Week

Basharatyan v London fashion week

Basharatyan v London Fashion Week

Basharatyan v London Fashion Week

Basharatyan v London Fashion Week

Basharatyan v London Fashion Week

All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,2014, ,basharatyan v, ,fashion, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Frida, ,London Fashion Week, ,preview, ,review, ,S/S 2014, ,Spring/Summer 2014

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Amelia’s Magazine | Bath in Fashion 2013: A review of the Designer Fashion Show

Bath in Fashion by youdesignme1
Bath in Fashion illustration by youdesignme

Staged by the renowned John Walford, this Bath based show aimed to rival the best of them. Held on Friday the 19th of April in The Assembly Rooms (which is also the home of The Fashion Museum), this show brought out the most fashion conscious of this lovely little spa city. Shops and brands exhibiting their wares included Bloomsbury, Austin Reed, Prey, Howl and Wolf,The Frock Exchange and Paul Smith. There was even a section dedicated to Bath Spa University student collections, all of it sponsored by high end jeweller Mallory.

Bath in Fashion

Bath in Fashion

Bath in Fashion

Bath in Fashion

Bath in Fashion
Animals made from Linen and Champagne shaped fancy dress costumes from the 1400s were just some of the diverse exhibitions and events on show as part of this years Bath in Fashion 2013 and this kitten-walk displayed the same range and variety as the rest of the festival. Men, women, ballerinas, flower-girls, baggy jumpers, eye-wear and lingerie: all got their time in the spotlight.

Bath in Fashion

Bath in Fashion

Bath in Fashion

Bath in Fashion

Bath in Fashion

The baby-blue walls and extravagant chandeliers of The Assembly Rooms reminded me of the surroundings at The Savoy LFW Gyunel Show I attended this season. The interiors of a venue always make a huge difference to the impact of the show itself, and the glitzy decor definitely gave these collections some extra oomph.

Bath in Fashion by Warren Clarke
Bath in Fashion by Warren Clarke

Bath in Fashion

Bath in Fashion

Bath in Fashion

Standing at the back of the room, I could hear three women, one holding a young ‘un chattering away, giggling at the cheeky smile of a middle-aged male model who, whether clad in shorts or suited up, never failed to excite the female members of the audience. The most significant thing about this show was the audience: a far cry from the young, tottering heels and extravagant, celebrity attended shows of Londres, this down to earth audience gave the show a friendly atmosphere. At LFW the audience are an attraction in themselves and many people spend their time scouting for familiar star-studded faces in the audience while they glance over the collections. This audience was mixed, and rather than the young, fresh faces in the crowd I’m used to, the audience was made up of a more mature crowd: presumably women with actual cash to splash.

Bath in Fashion by youdesignme
Bath in Fashion illustration by youdesignme

Bath in Fashion

Bath in Fashion

Bath in Fashion

Bath in Fashion

I have a few clear favourites among the collections: umbrellas lined with grey city-scapes, and pouffy skirts, as well as colourful baggy jumpers featuring geometric prints. Each time the lights changed there was a new surprise, from girls laden with three or four bags, piled up on each arm, to uber-revealing outfits showing hip-bones and side-boob. For one collection girls wearing dresses adorned with fake birds were styled carrying flowers, and yet another look featured minimal bold lipstick and dark sunglasses.

Bath in Fashion

Bath in Fashion

Bath in Fashion

Bath in Fashion

Bath in Fashion

Bath House Fashion by Emma Ferry
Bath in Fashion by Emma Ferry

With the knowledge that Bath in Fashion 2013 was almost over for another year, there was a vague sense of sadness as the show drew to a close. Bath in Fashion is a great week in this little town, where the shops, the streets and exhibitions all take the quiet little city by storm. Known for being just a little bit posh, Bath has built a reputation for it’s lovely little boutiques, and love of all things vintage. This is something obvious from the catwalk itself, which shows the city at its most fashionable.

Bath in Fashion

Bath in Fashion

Bath in Fashion

Bath in Fashion

Bath in Fashion

Bath in Fashion by Daniel Alexander
Mallory Show by Daniel Alexander

Categories ,Austin Reed, ,Bags, ,Bath, ,Bath In Fashion, ,Bath Spa Student, ,Bloomsbury, ,catwalk, ,collection, ,Dresses, ,Flowers, ,Howl and Wolf, ,Mallory, ,Prey, ,The Fashion Museum

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