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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2011 Catwalk Review: Jean Pierre Braganza (by Matt)

After the safety of school, stuff facing the real world can make artists feel a bit lost – this is why the working artists at the Core Gallery started ‘DIY Educate’. Starting from Saturday 26th February, this there will be workshops, prostate critiques and lectures to help with the practical aspects of art life.

Rosalind Davis

‘I came out of five years of education with a BA and an MA, but I still didn’t know where to begin when it came to knowing how the art world works,’ says Rosalind Davis, co-director of the Core Gallery. A lot of people who graduated university with an arts or humanities degree are likely to identify with this sentiment; while art school is good for finding your voice, it’s not so good when it comes to teaching you about running a business. This is where Rosalind, and her fellow Core Gallery artists, hope to be able to help.

Enver Gursev

The Core Gallery was set up in April 2010, and puts on exhibitions by emerging curators. ‘We want to be a dynamic, exploratory space,’ says Rosalind. Their DIY Educate programme kicks off this spring, focusing firmly on ‘what they don’t teach you in school’: how to apply for an exhibition, how to sell your work, how to approach a gallery. The workshops will also go over how to find grants, or how to find an arts-related side-job to keep food on the table. One-on-one tutorials are also part of the package, with esteemed painter Graham Crowley offering his honest opinion for starters, with more names to be added. ‘There will also be peer critique sessions, and the opportunity to exchange ideas in a friendly place’, says Rosalind, emphasising how the most important thing is to create a space where artists feel nurtured.

Graham Crowley

‘Lots of art school practice is about the concept and processes of art, and there is less focus on the business side,’ says Rosalind. ‘But artists can be shy about marketing themselves, and they will often need encouragement.’

I ask Rosalind why the business side this isn’t covered better in school, and she says it’s difficult to say, but part of the reason may be that artist teachers in university may not be that great at promoting themselves either. She lectures about the business side of art herself, but she thinks it should be a mandatory subject to better prepare students for what’s to come.

Arnold Borgerth

DIY Educate will include talks by curators and artists, plus practical workshops. Membership costs £18 per year, granting free or reduced price access to events. Non-members can attend too, paying full price. DIY Educate is a not-for-profit programme that receives no independent funding, and Rosalind hopes to be able to expand offerings as things get going.

Elizabeth Murton

The programme kicks off this Saturday, 26th February, with a peer critique sesson followed by an artist and curator dialogue. On Tuesday night, 1st March, there will be a ‘nuts and bolt’ workshop on how to be an artist.

‘We plan to have one of these ‘nuts and bolts’ workshop every other month or so, plus a series of art workshops through the spring and summer,’ Rosalind explains. Initially the gallery plans to have two tutorials a month, but this could grow as more artists join Graham Crowley in offering them.

All images courtesy of Core Gallery and its resident artists.

The DIY Educate website is here – find the Core Gallery in Deptford: C101 Faircharm Trading Estate, 8-12 Creekside, London SE8 3DX

Illustration by Joana Faria

If I ever meet Jean Pierre Braganza in person, buy I might give him a little squeeze. His A/W 2011 show on Friday leaps right into my top 5 – and I’m writing this at the end of a very long and pretty stressful Day 3.

One of my favourite things during fashion week is getting to see interesting buildings that I never knew existed and wouldn’t normally take the slightest interest in. Braganza’s show was to take place at the ‘Show Space‘ – part of one of those centuries-old hotels with Baroque interiors and branded soaps. Me and Amelia skipped the queue and sneaked inside to find the most beautiful chandeliers and lots of OTT dressed punters. The actual room in which the show was to take place was equally as decadent, save for the make-shift catwalk that looked like it could topple at any second – and the tiny gap down the side of said catwalk through which we all had to squeeze. ‘I predict a bottle neck’ I thought as we entered, and my premonition came true on the way out.

Illustrations by Krister Selin

A little wait ensued while it was ensured that every inch of carpet had somebody to occupy it, so I took a few snaps of the room and got a bit excited about the juxtaposition of this past interior and Braganza’s future aesthetic.

On with the show with bangin’ beats and gorgeous models wearing more gorgeous clothes. Masculine tailoring appeared first, dynamically cut and decorated with a transfixing splatter pattern in tonal greys. This pattern was set to become a theme, appearing in both menswear and womenswear. After only a few pieces I instantly thought that Braganza’s collections are always meticulous and polished – rich, full fabrics are combined with unique cuts and expert craftsmanship – the entire collection was technically faultless.

Models appeared one after the other, pausing a third of the way down the catwalk so we could all get a good look. I like this set up – much better for pictures (and I’ve really struggled with pictures this season – bloody A/W and it’s sea of dark colours).

Illustrations by Krister Selin

Branganza took the collection forward concentrating on luxe materials that have high aesthetic value: rich and heavy knits, leather and mohair; add a science-fiction influence and you’ve got a real fashion forward collection.

Geometric cuts featured patches of contrasting materials. Nautical stripes in monochrome contrasted with the smoothness of jersey; gents wore Cuban heels with their military tailoring with contrasting sleeves. Braganza has an incredible ability to combine leather architectural pieces with beautifully elegant silk frocks – sounds hideous on paper but as a collection it was completely coherent.

Illustration by Joana Faria

I usually can’t get it up for a predominantly black collection, but with Jean Pierre Braganza’s vision of the future I most certainly can. Bursts of lipstick red shook things up a bit: a gent’s suit with a synched back and skinny trousers that finished with points; embellished onto a mind-blowing shift dress; on short skirts. But it will be Braganza’s black that I remember this collection for: leather sleeves for gents and cutaway dresses in leather with a hint of bondage that oozed sex appeal for the ladies. Eyes peeled folks, this is what the future looks like.

All photography by Matt Bramford

See more of Joana Faria and Krister Selin’s illustrations in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration.

Written by Matt Bramford on Monday February 21st, 2011 10:35 am

Categories ,A/W 2011, ,architectural, ,baroque, ,black, ,Catwalk review, ,Croydon face lift, ,Cuban heels, ,Futuristic, ,geometric, ,Jean Pierre Braganza, ,Joana Faria, ,Krister Selin, ,London Fashion Week, ,Northumberland Avenue, ,Red, ,The Show Space, ,Trace Publicity

Amelia’s Magazine | LFW 09 – Komakino S/S 2010 – Paint it Black

Lou Dalton presented her collection in the Portico Rooms of Somerset House, stuff a rather opulent setting reached by a romantic, troche winding staircase. This idyllic space couldn’t have suited the Dalton’s collection better, web unless it had been adorned in seafaring regalia.

This isn’t to say that Lou’s vision for Spring/Summer 2010 is a direct pastiche of maritime outfits. Instead, more subtle referencing was present.

The stripe – the seaside staple – was there in a number of outfits, but it had been re-worked for a more mature look, despite the models having a mean age of 14 (I surmise). I particularly loved the way it had be knitted into these two pieces…

Basics were simple, with white vests featuring graphic patterns and loose fitting tailoring, such as blazer-waistcoats or knee-length shorts.

As the collection progressed, it was clear that Dalton’s phantasm was less straight-forward sea. New-romantic elements and the channelling of pirates evoked memories a more decadent, classical period in history, when travelling by sea was the only way to travel. Wide brimmed hats and neat safari jackets, which were exquisitely tailored, fall into this category.

There was also a hint of femininity to the collection, juxtaposed with more masculine pieces. Tailored chambray shirts were teamed with gold corsages and neck ties, for example.

Fantastic accessories on display – oversized bags featuring graphic prints by Ricardo Fumanal and embellished with more metallic corsages. Sunglasses were provided by Linda Farrow, need I say more?

Overall a very wearable collection where different pieces can be fused together to create different looks. Some of which I hope to try pretty soon…

Photography by Matt Bramford

Lou Dalton presented her collection in the Portico Rooms of Somerset House, ailment a rather opulent setting reached by a romantic, and winding staircase. This idyllic space couldn’t have suited the Dalton’s collection better, unless it had been adorned in seafaring regalia.

This isn’t to say that Lou’s vision for Spring/Summer 2010 is a direct pastiche of maritime outfits. Instead, more subtle referencing was present.

Basics were simple, with white vests featuring graphic patterns and loose fitting tailoring, such as blazer-waistcoats or knee-length shorts.

There was also a hint of femininity to the collection, juxtaposed with more masculine pieces. Tailored chambray shirts were teamed with gold corsages and neck ties, for example.

Fantastic accessories on display – oversized bags featuring graphic prints by Ricardo Fumanal and embellished with more metallic corsages. Sunglasses were provided by Linda Farrow, need I say more?

Overall a very wearable collection where different pieces can be fused together to create different looks. Some of which I hope to try pretty soon…

Photography by Matt Bramford

Lou Dalton presented her collection in the Portico Rooms of Somerset House, viagra a rather opulent setting reached by a romantic, winding staircase. This idyllic space couldn’t have suited the Dalton’s collection better, unless it had been adorned in seafaring regalia.

This isn’t to say that Lou’s vision for Spring/Summer 2010 is a direct pastiche of maritime outfits. Instead, more subtle referencing was present.

Basics were simple, with white vests featuring graphic patterns and loose fitting tailoring, such as blazer-waistcoats or knee-length shorts.

There was also a hint of femininity to the collection, juxtaposed with more masculine pieces. Tailored chambray shirts were teamed with gold corsages and neck ties, for example.

Fantastic accessories on display – oversized bags featuring graphic prints by Ricardo Fumanal and embellished with more metallic corsages. Sunglasses were provided by Linda Farrow, need I say more?

Overall a very wearable collection where different pieces can be fused together to create different looks. Some of which I hope to try pretty soon…

Photography by Matt Bramford

London based design duo Jin Kim and Federico Capalbo, pill aka Komakino, page are fast becoming the dark knights of the London fashion scene. Spring/Summer 09 gave us monochrome t-shirts with graphic prints, order whilst their Autumn/Winter collection of the same year was an all-black bondage affair.

Along similar lines, and retaining their status of one of London’s most innovative menswear brands, this season’s collection fuses sleek, smart tailoring contradicted by deconstructed materials and hyper-aesthtetic fabrics.

The first pieces were graphic-print, oversized t-shirts. These were distressed with zillions of holes or embellished with sleek materials. Fearsome muzzles completed the look.

The collection moved onto tailoring, where panels were added to bomber jackets and shirts, never without fraying or some hint of distress. Heaven forbid a piece of clothing is mundane.

The use of latex and leather created ethereal outfits, and high necks that covered the mouth and zipper embellishments created eery silhouettes.

Arm bands hinted at military, while latex trousers a minimal bondage straps stole this idea almost as quick as it was conjured.

The thing I like about Komakino as a label is that they refuse to confirm to the norm – presenting an all black Spring/Summer collection, save for a couple of very discrete colours here and there – is quite risky courageous. The boys didn’t fail to pull this off, though – garments matched with the aforementioned accessories like muzzles and latex boots made this stand-out collection work.

All Photographs by Matt Bramford

Written by Matt Bramford on Friday September 25th, 2009 9:01 am

Categories ,black, ,Bondage, ,british fashion council, ,Komanino, ,London Fashion Week, ,Menswear Day, ,Somerset House

Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2010 Catwalk Review: Charlie Le Mindu by Amelia

Charlie Le Mindu by Bex Glover

And so the circus starts all over again…. in a not particularly auspicious way for little ol’ me, pill as I was nearly run over by a succession of buses rally driving bumper to bumper through Holborn as I was wending my way to my first fashion week show astride my lethal Raleigh Shopper (yes, price Shopper, medications not Chopper. There will be no wheelies on this bike). And then a nasty man in a car called me a ‘stupid caaah’. It all started swimmingly I tells you. Bastard.

At the on/off premises – Victoria House in Bloomsbury – I was met by two young girls bearing brollies as if promoting a car show outside Earl’s Court rather than the uber-trendy off schedule space where all the most hotly tipped designers will show. Inside I was warned not to trip over a step leading to a stuffed deer over which swung, and will swing all week, an intricately papercut sculpture. Rob Ryan, I blame you – papercutting is so very now, it’s even on the light fittings in the press den.

Deer at On/Off by June Chanpoomidole

Getting into the show proved simple – a charming cockney fella on the door was greeting all the as yet fresh-faced fashionistas with a cheery grin, merrily announcing: “You got a pass love? Don’t matter what kind. Oyster card will do!” Next to the showhall there was a hastily erected memorial to Alexander Mcqueen that looked suspiciously as if it may have been sponsored by apple, touch screens showcasing his catwalk shows interspersed with the occasional app rollcall. A more personal homage was to be found over at the BFC tent, featuring some touching hand written messages.

Illustration of Charlie Le Mindu by Bex Glover

Charlie Le Mindu was and is principally known as a hair stylist, so it comes as no great surprise that his show was sponsored by copious quantities of hair products and… a wig salon; who provided the large empty pink boxes that everyone is seen touting about the place for the ensuing day, perfectly sized to make a great girly box file. In fact there was so much to take away that I struggled under the load from the very first show. Whoever said there was a recession?

I took my place on the front row next to Guy, editor of Fashion156 Magazine, which is another online fashion magazine. He told me that he had 12 people covering the shows, including backstage photographers. And they should be uploading throughout the day. I was impressed!

Illustration of Charlie Le Mindu by Bex Glover

What can I tell you about Charlie Le Mindu? The show started with a lady bearing a crystal crucifix on her head and things just got better. The black lace bodystockings were merely a foil for the impressive cocoon like wigs and head pieces, constructed from feathers, tassels and all things exotic – most of it was not exactly clothing but defiantly offered a fan-fucking-tastic kick off to fashion week. The models stomped down the runway in royal blue make up, some smeared in deepest black bodypaint. Capes and swinging bags to match your hair? Why, step this way madam.

Illustration of Charlie Le Mindu by Bex Glover

Charlie is clearly a magnet for the more exotic types of fashionista and there were plenty of strangely dressed people to be ogled, even so early in the morning, including a large man with a bushy beard, sexy black dress, (possibly real) fur stole and glamourous red lipstick. And the best bit about such creatures is that they’re more than happy to pose because they’re all hoping for a few moments of internet glory – and the possibility of flouncing their look from here to Timbuktu. We can all be famous now!

Bearded man with red lipstick by June Chanpoomidole

Read contributor Matt Bramford’s review of Charlie Le Mindu here, with illustrations by Maryanne Oliver.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Sunday February 21st, 2010 1:50 am

Categories ,Alexander McQueen, ,Bex Glover, ,black, ,Charlie le Mindu, ,Feathers, ,Hairstylist, ,Jewels, ,June Chanpoomidole, ,lfw, ,Maryanne Oliver, ,Off Schedule, ,onoff, ,rob ryan, ,Victoria House

Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2010 Catwalk Review: Charlie Le Mindu by Amelia

Charlie Le Mindu by Bex Glover

Deer at On/Off by June Chanpoomidole

Illustration of Charlie Le Mindu by Bex Glover

Bearded man with red lipstick by June Chanpoomidole

Read contributor Matt Bramford’s review of Charlie Le Mindu here, with illustrations by Maryanne Oliver.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Sunday February 21st, 2010 1:50 am

Categories ,Alexander McQueen, ,Bex Glover, ,black, ,Charlie le Mindu, ,Feathers, ,Hairstylist, ,Jewels, ,June Chanpoomidole, ,lfw, ,Maryanne Oliver, ,Off Schedule, ,onoff, ,rob ryan, ,Victoria House

Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2010 Catwalk Review: Charlie Le Mindu

Who cares if womenswear is wearable? As a gent, sickness I certainly don’t. Hair stylist to the stars, Charlie Le Mindu opened the On|Off shows yesterday – winning zero points for wearability, but a whopping 10 out of 10 for wow factor.

Charlie has been styling hair for shoots and shows for ages now, but his first catwalk show, as part of Blow Presents, was only last year. In the six months between then and now, he’s had time to polish his wares, and this time we had an even deeper delve into his psyche…

Illustration by Maryanne Oliver

With the sound of church bells welcoming a funeral cortege, the first model appeared with a giant, jewel-encrusted cross atop her sleek black wig. Wearing a most provocative outfit made of lace, Le Mindu’s pieces lie somewhere between your wildest dreams and your darkest nightmares.

As the pounding music kicked in, with screams of ‘CHARLIE” peppered in the track, the stream of models slowly sauntered down the catwalk, expressionless and lost in their own thoughts. The outfits became racier – with one model, wearing a huge hair-trimmed construction, having little but a thick pony tail to hide her modesty.

While Charlie’s SS 2010 show was all about the blonde, AW 2010 was definitely all about black. Black, black black. Black lace, black hair, black shoes and black knickers. The use of any other hues would have ruined the drama of fashion’s favourite colour.

The most prominent theme was undoubtedly death, with crucifixes, ashen skin and hair/head pieces influenced by the mantilla. Whilst some might find Le Mindu’s creations a little on the silly side, the craftsmanship, attention to detail and range of techniques he employs are outstanding. He’s comparable to the few designers who really push the boundaries, and, like dearly beloved McQueen, he toys with raw and emotive subjects. And when it’s not hair, it’s stoles with cuddly-toy heads or bird feathers.

Amongst a hell of a lot of designers who’ve taken to playing it safe in these turbulent financial times, thank GOD for Charlie Le Mindu*.

*Except, if that’s real fur you’re using Charlie, please don’t. It’s the 21st century, and there really isn’t ANY need. Thanks.

Written by Matt Bramford on Saturday February 20th, 2010 10:26 pm

Categories ,A/W 2010, ,black, ,Charlie le Mindu, ,Death, ,Hair, ,London Fashion Week, ,onoff

Amelia’s Magazine | Graduate Fashion Week 2011 Gala Awards Show: Womenswear Knitwear and Tailoring

GFW Charlotte Waters by Claire Kearns
Charlotte Waters by Claire Kearns.

Now for the real meat of the Graduate Fashion Week Gala Awards show… the womenswear on show. Here are those designers who concentrated on tailoring, more about textures and knitwear.

Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Charlotte Waters 2011
Charlotte Waters of Salford showed a dark and moody collection with plenty of texture and knit. Intelligent Evolution was inspired by obsolete technology such as cassettes. Grunge with a modern twist – loved the over sized fibrous shoes.

Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Cindy M Warsono 2011

Cindy M Warsono by Hayley Warnham.

I wasn’t massively keen on La Salle College of the Arts Singapore graduate Cindy M Warsono‘s collection of bulky cream hoodies and tight trousers.

Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Jaskiran Hare 2011
Jaskiran Hare of Kingston University showed a monochrome collection based on traditional tailoring turned inside out and back to front.

Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Jungo Kuroiwa 2011
Jungo Kuroiwa of UCA Epsom favoured a very black approach as well: layered tailoring and lace all mixed up together to create interest.

GFW-Rory-Longdon_by_AlisonDay
Rory Longdon by Alison Day.

Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Rory Longdon 2011
Rory Longdon went for subdued black and silver in his knitwear collection – but even a colour lover like me could admire these beautifully constructed garments – up close they were just amazing. Not for nothing did he win the overall Gala Award. He goes on to study an MA in Fashion Womenswear at the RCA this September.

Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Lyudmila Lane 2011
Lyudmila Lane of UCA Rochester stuck to lighter greys and orange in pleated shapes for Endless Sequence, medications inspired by the sculptures of Peter Jansen. The garments didn’t always work – I was much more interested in her intriguing shoes.

Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Rachel Cogley 2011
Rachel Cogley from University of Birmingham must surely have been inspired by Charlie Le Mindu – her fun collection borrowed heavily from his avante garde design aesthetic. Nonetheless I enjoyed her crazy big shouldered plaited hair coats and the poodle bag which matched both wig and coat.

naomi-law-gfw-gala-ume-sacraine

Ume Sacraine by Naomi Law.

Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Ume Sacraine 2011
It was back to black for Ume Sacraine of De Montford University… who started with a panelled mini dress before moving on to a whole range of intriguing fringed, embossed and gnarled textures in a sombre palette.

Graduate Fashion Week Gala show Won Jee Chung 2011
Finally, Won Jee Chung showed more monochrome, this time intarsia knit and a strangely unflattering bulky hooded top with sheer palazzo pants.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Friday June 24th, 2011 3:31 pm

Categories ,Alison Day, ,black, ,Charlie le Mindu, ,Charlotte Waters, ,Cindy M Warsono, ,Claire Kearns, ,De Montford University, ,Endless Sequence, ,GFW, ,Graduate Fashion Week, ,Grey, ,Hayley Warnham, ,Intelligent Evolution, ,Jaskiran Hare, ,Jungo Kuroiwa, ,Kingston University, ,knitwear, ,La Salle College of the Arts, ,Lyudmila Lane, ,monochrome, ,Naomi Law, ,Peter Jansen, ,Rachel Cogley, ,Rory Longdon, ,Singapore, ,tailoring, ,Textures, ,UCA Epsom, ,UCA Rochester, ,Ume Sacraine, ,University of Birmingham, ,Womenswear, ,Won Jee Chung

Amelia’s Magazine | Holly Fulton: London Fashion Week A/W 2013 Catwalk Review

Holly Fulton - lfw a/w 2013 - amelias magazine - Isher Dhiman
Holly Fulton A/W 2013 by Isher Dhiman

The line of freezing cold fashionistas standing outside Me London early on Saturday morning clutched Holly Fulton tickets bearing a giant red cartoon heart, like an I Love NY heart. I was almost surprised not to see an I Love HF shirt in the collection this year as Holly Fulton has embraced high kitsch in a big way, albeit without losing any of her signature sophistication and art deco-esque patterns. The place was so packed I barely managed to see a snatch of side view, so was unable to get any good photos. My catwalk sketches and illustrations will have to do for this article, but do seek out the photographic proof of this collection’s brilliance.

holly fulton - lfw - aw13 - jenny robins - amelias magazine
Holly Fulton A/W 2013 by Jenny Robins.

In September it was roses and pin-ups, this season it’s hearts, tigers, polar bears, calligraphy swirls, shiny feathers and lipsticks. Lots of lipsticks. The A/W 2013 collection celebrated a fierce, fun femininity and it made a big impact that was backed up with a sea of detail. I loved it.

1 Holly Fulton by Isher Dhiman
Holly Fulton A/W 2013 by Isher Dhiman

Holly Fulton sees A/W 2013 mostly in black, white and red, with strong geometric shapes offset by more fluid touches – gauzy sleeves and a giant puffy white skirt featuring a pixelated black and white tiger (tigers seem to be everywhere this season). Even the room was drenched in red light, whilst details such as heart shaped earrings and hearts on the back of jackets gave the collection a distinctly Valentine’s vibe. The models emerged from a giant red circle that reminded me of a Japanese flag, and walked in black shoes down a red catwalk. Guess what colour their lipstick was?

holly fulton 2 - lfw - aw13 - jenny robins - amelias magazine
Holly Fulton A/W 2013 by Jenny Robins.

There were yards of graphic repeating prints that included cultural icons such as cassette tapes, safety pins and ring pull can tops. These throw-away commodities were paired with sumptuous fabrics and clean tailoring to create an intriguing mix. I can’t wait to see how this designer continues to develop.

Written by Jenny Robins on Tuesday February 19th, 2013 9:50 pm

Categories ,A/W 2013, ,black, ,calligraphy, ,fashion, ,geometric, ,heart, ,Holly Fulton, ,I love NY, ,Isher Dhiman, ,kitsch, ,lfw, ,Lipstick, ,london, ,London Fashion Week, ,me london, ,polar bear, ,Red, ,Tiger

Amelia’s Magazine | Jasper Garvida: London Fashion Week A/W 2012 Catwalk Review

Jasper Garvida A/W 2012 by Amy Smith

After seeing KTZ at the main show space at Somerset House I froze on the spot for longer than was necessary. My camera battery was dying (as per at fashion week) and I was exhausted. Should I make the trek up to Bloomsbury to catch Jasper Garvida? Yes, I know the journey from Somerset House to Bloomsbury isn’t of Captain Scott proportions. Well, clearly, I decided to go or I wouldn’t be writing this review. Anyway…

Jasper Garvida A/W 2012 by Emily Robertson

All photography by Matt Bramford

Jasper returned to the Bloomsbury Hotel‘s grand ballrooms to present his collection. As I took my seat I wondered how it was going to work – at one end of the catwalk (floor) stood an aggression of photographers (a collective noun I’ve created myself), at the other end, a brick wall. It transpired that models were entering from the middle and doing a loop, which must have been pretty taxing.

Cheers then – those photographs you’re taking on your iPhone are lush… can I have a copy? Grrr…

Gah.

I haven’t been to one of Jasper‘s shows before but I’d heard good things and our Alia interviewed Jasper last season, so I was keen to see what he’d present this time.

Jasper Garvida A/W 2012 by Amy Smith

The show began with simple neat tailoring in a camel colour, embellished with big gold buttons. I don’t know if the seats were a little lower or the heels bigger than at other shows, but these models were enormous. I almost felt quite scared as they lurched towards me. Long, fitted dresses that were perfectly tailored hung off them effortlessly, though.

The collection then brought pleated skirts with mesmerising digital prints. These were cut just above the knee at a level where neither femininity or morals are compromised. Jasper certainly knows a good silhouette.

Then came fitted jackets with tight-fitting cropped trousers. More intriguing prints here, along with more gold buttons and oversized zips that added a real luxurious flavour to the collection. One jacket, with a high collar and sweeping neckline, featured stunning gold embroidery on each lapel.

My favourite pieces were to be found at the end of the presentation. Long black body-con numbers were reminiscent of 1990s Versace – carrying gold embroidery around necklines, harness straps and thick gold chain draped casually across the torso, and I’ve already earmarked a shorter number with huge gold tassels draped from the shoulders for my next red carpet walk.

Jasper Garvida A/W 2012 by Sophy Henn

It’s a bold woman (in vertiginous heels) that is a Jasper Garvida woman; a woman who oozes sex appeal and isn’t afraid to celebrate their femininity.

The lighting was a little awkward to work with, hence why my photographs are a little sub-standard in this review. They don’t do this superb collection any justice.

Written by Matt Bramford on Monday February 27th, 2012 2:10 pm

Categories ,A/W 2012, ,Amy Smith, ,AW12, ,black, ,Bloomsbury Hotel, ,Buttons, ,catwalk, ,embroidery, ,Emily Robertson, ,Gold, ,jasper garvida, ,London Fashion Week, ,Matt Bramford, ,review, ,Sophy Henn, ,Tall, ,Versace, ,Womenswear

Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland Off Out Of Schedule A/W 2011 in Łódź: Maldoror

Maldoror Off Out ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011 by Fawn Carr
Maldoror A/W 2011 by Fawn Carr.

The hissing sighs of Diamandas Galas provided the musical backdrop to this edgy show from Maldoror by Grzegorz Matl?g, pills which featured street cast models who I had seen around already in the audience at Fashion Week Poland – a refreshing change from the same old faces on every catwalk. Black outfits opened the show, high necked and lacy for both men and women, culminating in a butt revealing suit made entirely of net. Grzegorz Matl?g works with recycled materials, his aim being to challenge the wearer “to create their own look without the cultural restraints and defects of consumerism.” High ideals indeed, and ones which I of course heartily applaud.

Maldoror by Rebecca Strickson.

Things really started hotting up for me with the introduction of bright devilish red. I particularly loved the short-legged man’s red silk shantung suit paired with shiny red loafers and tied loosely at the waist, followed by a round shouldered coat for women and two interesting sequinned patchwork pieces.

Maldoror Off Out ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia Gregory

Maldoror had constructed some stunning garments for this show but as was true of many other Polish collections successful ideas were not developed to their full potential with The Accuser – which was a shame because I love what he is doing. The show ended to the sound of clanging bells, again. A sound which was done to death at Fashion Week Poland, but which was just about justified in this case. Maldoror is available in the UK at Not Just a Label.

Maldoror Off Out ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011-photography by Amelia Gregory
Maldoror A/W 2011. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Monday May 30th, 2011 9:53 pm

Categories ,bells, ,black, ,Diamandas Galas, ,Eco fashion, ,Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland, ,Fashion Week Poland, ,Fawn Carr, ,Grzegorz Matląg, ,Lodz, ,Maldoror, ,Not Just a Label, ,Off Out Of Schedule, ,Palgue Mass, ,Rebecca Strickson, ,recycled, ,Red, ,The Accuser, ,Upcycled

Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland Off Out Of Schedule A/W 2011 in Łódź: Marcin Podsiadło

Marcin-Podsiadlo-by-Victoria-Haynes
Marcin Podsiad?o by Victoria Haynes.

One feature of the Off Out Of Schedule shows at Fashion Week Poland was that no one checked tickets on the door and there was no one to usher in guests, what is ed meaning that seating was a free for all. I was a little late getting to this show as I’d been upstairs to check out the fashion photography exhibition (more on that later as I discovered some very good stuff) so I had to stand in a poor position, a bit exasperating when you’ve come all the way from London and it turns out that a good position is critical to capture the collection adequately. Marcin Podsiad?o showed black fabric geometric headpieces that completely dominated the all black outfits, meaning that in fact I couldn’t really tell you much about them. Far more successful, as styling goes, were the black blocked lips.

Marcin Podsiadlo Off Out ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011 photography by Amelia Gregory

I am sure there were some lovely and very wearable shapes in this show, but in general I always struggle with all black collections, especially when they are shown in such low lighting levels that it’s nearly impossible to make out any detail. I was most interested to discover that Marcin Podsiad?o studied at the University of the Creative Arts and I think he’s actually based in the UK. I wonder if he was roaming the corridors when I taught there?

Marcin Podsiadlo Off Out ?ód? Fashion Week AW 2011 photography by Amelia Gregory
Marcin Podsiad?o A/W 2011. All photography by Amelia Gregory.