Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2011 Catwalk Review: Mark Fast

Masha Ma A/W 2011 by Liam McMa
Masha Ma A/W 2011 by Natsuki Otani
Masha Ma A/W 2011 by Natsuki Otani.

Masha Ma is undoubtedly one of my very favourite designers right now so it was with utmost dismay that I encountered a major logistical error early on Sunday morning. Which required me to hot foot it back to my house in order to pick up press releases for Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration in time for the opening of Ecoluxe. In the end I managed to scoot my way into the back of the Freemasons Hall just in time to see most of the show, sick although I had to make do with the sight of my contributors happily ensconced in the front row as I craned for a view from the back. Oh the ignominy.

Masha Ma A/W 2011 DeCon. Photography by Amelia GregoryMasha Ma A/W 2011 DeCon. Photography by Amelia GregoryMasha Ma A/W 2011 DeCon. Photography by Amelia GregoryMasha Ma A/W 2011 DeCon. Photography by Amelia GregoryMasha Ma A/W 2011 by Liam McMahon
Masha Ma A/W 2011 by Liam McMahon.

Hers is a self-described “architectural” way of designing, web cutting swathes of fabric to hang in flattering folds. Following her all white S/S Icebreaker debut, buy information pills for DeCon Masha Ma explored elegant tailoring in pale duck egg blue, dusky rose, flinty grey and ice mint.

Masha Ma A/W 2011. Photography by Tim AdeyMasha Ma A/W 2011. Photography by Tim AdeyMasha Ma A/W 2011. Photography by Tim AdeyMasha Ma A/W 2011. Photography by Tim Adey
Masha Ma A/W 2011. Photography by Tim Adey.

Crepe, satin and organza curled into delicate scrolls on collars and hips; woollen waterfalls cascaded down the front of coats. All accessorised with the most amazing come-fuck-me pillar box red boots – over the thigh, shiny and skin tight.

Masha Ma A/W 2011 DeCon. Photography by Amelia GregoryMasha Ma A/W 2011 DeCon. Photography by Amelia GregoryMasha Ma A/W 2011 DeCon. Photography by Amelia GregoryMasha Ma A/W 2011 DeCon. Photography by Amelia GregoryMasha Ma A/W 2011 DeCon. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Masha Ma A/W 2011 DeCon. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

Eyes peeped out from below side swept fringes: sexy secretaries in tight pencil skirts. High collars were a theme, either tightly rolled polo necks or carefully pleated to bring a touch of Renaissance drama to otherwise thoroughly modern outfits.

Masha Ma A/W 2011. Photography by Tim Adey
Masha Ma A/W 2011. Photography by Tim Adey.

The show finished on a couple of beautiful black outfits, which were given that all important lift thanks to red lipstick and gloss red fingerless gloves that complemented those amazing boots. Just glorious.

Masha Ma A/W 2011 DeCon. Photography by Amelia Gregory
That’s Naomi and Tim over there that is, taking much better photos than me. I couldn’t even see the boots. Jealous, moi? Not muchly…

Click here to read a review by the much better placed Naomi Law. You can see more of Natsuki Otani’s work in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration.
Mark Fast A/W 2011 by Liam McMahon
Mark Fast A/W 2011 by Liam McMahon.

I cannot tell a lie, dosage having tried in vain for several seasons to get tickets, symptoms I was super excited to finally be in attendance at a Mark Fast show. Knitwear was my first love: I spent much of teens knitting 80s tastic jumpers and despite opting to specialise in printed textile design at university I eventually started a knitwear label at the same time as Amelia’s Magazine. Unfortunately it became apparent that the magazine was going to dominate my time and energy, so now my big bags of ethically dyed rare breed wool sit languishing in my parents attic.

Mark Fast A/W 2011 by Michaela Meadow
Mark Fast A/W 2011 by Michaela Meadow.

Knitwear has been overlooked by high fashion for a long time, but in recent years there have been encouraging signs of its resurgence – with designers such as Mark Fast, Cooperative Designs and Alice Palmer leading the way. Mark has become well known for sexy figure hugging pieces with dramatic details that he creates using specialised techniques.

Mark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Loving the fairy light look!

Mark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011 by Liam McMahon
Mark Fast A/W 2011 by Liam McMahon.

This season he worked predominantly in merino wool in oatmeal, beige, shades of orange and black to create ribbed and ridged bodycon numbers fit for the most glamourous cocktail party. He also worked in leather with Canadian retailer Danier to create complementary pieces that included sexy corseted tops, wide legged trousers and buttersoft crop jackets, worn with sheer fabric and swishing straps. High necks followed a familiar trend for A/W 2011, as did the use of deep orange. One particular standout piece was a massive round shouldered ridged cardigan that called to mind a similar piece by fellow design innovator Georgia Hardinge.

Mark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Mark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

Dresses and coats with plush shoulder bolsters worked especially well, as did the plump trim on a mini dress worn with a giant fluffy hat and platforms. Also of note was a swirling maxi skirted number with covered arms that only left the shoulders sexily bare. Boots were knee high and louche; accessories included big bangles and spiky neckpieces.

Mark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Mark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

The show ended on a showpiece backless leather hooded coat, trailing a huge train behind like a sweeping Hollywood baddie. Once more Mark Fast chose normal sized women to model his collection with the use of several “plus size” models. These lush beauties only served to emphasise the extreme skinniness of the few extremely bony girls included in the show. And the joy of it? These dresses arguably worked way better on the models of more normal size.

Mark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryMark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Mark Fast A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

This is one happy bunny to have at last seen a Mark Fast show.

Categories ,80s, ,Alice Palmer, ,BFC, ,canada, ,Cooperative Designs, ,Danier, ,Georgia Hardinge, ,knitwear, ,lfw, ,Liam McMahon, ,London Fashion Week, ,Mark Fast, ,Merino, ,Michaela Meadow, ,plus size, ,Somerset House, ,wool

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2011 Catwalk Review: Olivia Rubin (by Amelia)


Illustration by Gareth A Hopkins

After being amazed by Masha Ma, cialis 40mg I had a short break before heading back into the Freemasons Hall to see Jazzkatze’s A/W 2011 collection. I had collected my ticket from Matt only a couple of hours earlier that morning and was eager to see what was on offer, price not being familiar with Ayumi Sufu’s designs.

Jazzkatze was founded by Central Saint Martins graduate Ayumi Sufu who began her career working for Vivienne Westwood, here Shelley Fox and Bernhard Willhelm. After returning to her native Japan she set up Jazzkatze, influenced by her surroundings whilst growing up; the old and the new, mixtures of traditional and westernisation and the chaos and energy of Tokyo.


Illustrations by YesGo!

Her A/W 2011 collection is named ‘The Name of the Rose’ and is inspired by the intellectual mystery novel of the same name written by Umberto Eco. The novel is said to reflect ‘the paradoxical relationship of existence made by you and your memories’.

Sufu introduced two signature prints in a selection of tones: one featuring scarlet and charcoal roses and another using snow covered ground in shades of grey strewn with blood-splattered roses.


Illustration by Stéphanie Thieullent

The palette also covered burgundy, nude beige and navy in a wide array of fabrics including sheer mohair knits, satin, chiffon and Melton wool. Tights were beautifully embellished with clusters of pearls, giving cohesion to the eclectic mix of looks.

Hair was woven with electric blue and white strands and swept into futuristic towering piles held in place by tightly wrapped ribbons. Prominent pieces in the collection included a lambskin skirt, a synthetic fur panelled half skirt worn over print trousers, a medieval-inspired hooded dress and a print jumpsuit.

The looks in the collection were diverse and a brave sense of of experimentation was evident Sufu’s wide-ranging field of influences working playfully alongside eachother. Opposing textures and shapes were paired boldly with no fear of eccentricity; her experience gained working with Wilhelm has clearly given her the confidence to have fun with her work.


Illustration by Gareth A Hopkins

She is described in her press release as “undeniably Tokyo, eccentrically London, creatively Antwerp, femininely Paris” which initially sounds like the usual give-or-take blurb you can find on handouts at London Fashion Week, but on reflection I think this is spot on. Sufu is clearly unafraid to take on several diverse ideas and see them through, rather than trying to force them to fuse together and lose the initial inspiration in the process. The collection offered a refreshing and individual aesthetic and I look forward to seeing what she has in store for us next season…!

All photography by Naomi Law

See more of Gareth A Hopkins’ illustrations in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration.

There is something slightly uneasy about Zoë Barker’s ‘Values’ series. Not the art itself, for sale as taken in isolation the images are beautifully, meticulously drawn. I’m talking about meaning behind them, which leave you walking away feeling a little awkward. We know that we trade personality for convenience every time time we go to Tesco instead of an independent shop, but we do it anyway. But we know we are contributing in a small way to a change that we’re not entirely happy about.

Zoë Barker grew up in a small Suffolk village which was Tesco-free for a long time, before one day she came back to visit family and found a Superstore rudely whacked down right on the high street. This is what prompted the artist and illustrator (and Amelia’s Magazine contributor!) to start her ‘Values’ series.

McDonald’s, Ikea, block housing and packaged holidays are all part of Zoë’s artwork, dramatically juxtaposed against local restaurants, carpenters, classic houses and the English seaside. The pictures are from Zoë’s family albums, but what they represent are things that are local, giving way to brands that lack identity in the sense they could be anywhere. While there is something quite sad about the images, Zoë has been careful to avoid too much nostalgia by making it funny as well; ‘Special things for special friends’ is the tagline for the elderly couple pasted onto the Ann Summers image.

Zoë Barker

The artwork is now on display at the Department of Coffee and Social Affairs, a coffee shop on Leather Lane Market in London’s Holborn area. The coffee house has only been open about ten weeks, located in an old ironmongers shop. The rooms are light and airy with plenty of seats, and the coffee is gunpowder strong, sourced from East London coffee masters Climpson & Sons. Hanging in white frames on white walls, Zoë’s pencil-drawn art is the perfect accompaniment to the space, dominated by the rough brick and wood interior which has been preserved from the old shop. It’s the perfect reminder that not all changes are bad – the ironmongers didn’t make it, but out of the ashes has come something beautiful.

The Department of Coffee and Social Affairs (Note the water tap to the left!)

Zoë Barker’s ‘Values’ runs until 16th May at the Department of Coffee and Social Affairs, 14-16 Leather Lane, EC1N 7SU. For more information see our listing.

Illustration by Gareth A Hopkins

After being amazed by Masha Ma, see I had a short break before heading back into the Freemasons Hall to see Jazzkatze’s A/W 2011 collection. I had collected my ticket from Matt only a couple of hours earlier that morning and was eager to see what was on offer, not being familiar with Ayumi Sufu’s designs.

Jazzkatze was founded by Central Saint Martins graduate Ayumi Sufu who began her career working for Vivienne Westwood, Shelley Fox and Bernhard Willhelm. After returning to her native Japan she set up Jazzkatze, influenced by her surroundings whilst growing up; the old and the new, mixtures of traditional and westernisation and the chaos and energy of Tokyo.


Illustrations by YesGo!

Her A/W 2011 collection is named ‘The Name of the Rose’ and is inspired by the intellectual mystery novel of the same name written by Umberto Eco. The novel is said to reflect ‘the paradoxical relationship of existence made by you and your memories’.

Sufu introduced two signature prints in a selection of tones: one featuring scarlet and charcoal roses and another using snow covered ground in shades of grey strewn with blood-splattered roses.


Illustration by Stéphanie Thieullent

The palette also covered burgundy, nude beige and navy in a wide array of fabrics including sheer mohair knits, satin, chiffon and Melton wool. Tights were beautifully embellished with clusters of pearls, giving cohesion to the eclectic mix of looks.

Hair was woven with electric blue and white strands and swept into futuristic towering piles held in place by tightly wrapped ribbons. Prominent pieces in the collection included a lambskin skirt, a synthetic fur panelled half skirt worn over print trousers, a medieval-inspired hooded dress and a print jumpsuit.

The looks in the collection were diverse and a brave sense of of experimentation was evident Sufu’s wide-ranging field of influences working playfully alongside eachother. Opposing textures and shapes were paired boldly with no fear of eccentricity; her experience gained working with Wilhelm has clearly given her the confidence to have fun with her work.


Illustration by Gareth A Hopkins

She is described in her press release as “undeniably Tokyo, eccentrically London, creatively Antwerp, femininely Paris” which initially sounds like the usual give-or-take blurb you can find on handouts at London Fashion Week, but on reflection I think this is spot on. Sufu is clearly unafraid to take on several diverse ideas and see them through, rather than trying to force them to fuse together and lose the initial inspiration in the process. The collection offered a refreshing and individual aesthetic and I look forward to seeing what she has in store for us next season…!

All photography by Naomi Law

See more of Gareth A Hopkins’ illustrations in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration.
Olivia Rubin A/W 2011 by Jane Young
Olivia Rubin A/W 2011 by Jane Young.

Every now and again London Fashion Week throws out a curveball and you end up in the most random of places with the most ridiculous collection of people, information pills wondering what the hell is going on. The Olivia Rubin show was just such an occasion.

I was very early to this show – a confluence of circumstances that left me standing at the front of a line outside the Jalouse nightclub in central London until I was completely numb with cold. From my prime vantage point I was able to ogle as the paps pounced on a series of D-Z list celebrities. I recognised Konnie Huq and footballer’s wife Danielle Lloyd but after that it was anyone’s guess. In my mind it’s never a good idea for the guests to overshadow a fashion show, there and especially not if I haven’t got a clue who they are.

Olivia Rubin A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryOlivia Rubin A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryOlivia Rubin A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Olivia Rubin A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

Once the celebs had been swept into the hallowed basement of Jalouse I too was invited in. I picked up a drink and swiftly headed towards the sunken seating area, ignoring the protestations of the press girl to wait and see if there was space later on. As if! We’ve run an extensive interview with Olivia Rubin on this website and I didn’t much feel like standing around on my own anymore, so I plonked myself down next to a friendly looking bunch of people on a curved sofa. I soon discovered that the lad next to me was on work experience at a fashion magazine and somewhat in thrall to his first fashion week. Herein is revealed the ridiculousness of seating arrangements at fashion shows – at the end of the day they are completely arbitrary. Depending on who you know and whether you’re bolshy enough you can sit wherever you want, be you intern or editor.

Olivia Rubin by Karolina Burdon
Olivia Rubin by Karolina Burdon.

As guests slowly filled the club celebrities stepped up on to the catwalk at my head height to pose for the paps. First Danielle, swishing her hair this way and that like a prime racehorse. Then, to my delight, Laura Goodger and friends from The Only Way is Essex. Don’t worry, I had to look up her full name. I did watch a few episodes, but I’m not THAT SAD. By this point I was gobsmacked by the stunning level of celeb-dom in attendance. I later discovered that another fashion PR had been approached for tickets by the *cast* of The Only Way is Essex, but had rapidly turned them down as way too tacky. I must say, I don’t really understand the logic. Rather than making me think, way-hey, this must mean Olivia Rubin is really cool… it made me utterly distracted… anthropologically fascinated by these strange creatures.

Olivia Rubin A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryOlivia Rubin A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryOlivia Rubin A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Olivia Rubin A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

The result? I spent the entire catwalk show trying to capture Lauren pouting and preening, rather than concentrating on the clothes – which in any case were hard to see against the glare of flashbulbs. Famous model Olivia Inge certainly enjoyed herself too; gurning at friends in the audience as she pranced down the catwalk.

Olivia Rubin A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryOlivia Rubin A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryOlivia Rubin A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryOlivia Rubin A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryOlivia Rubin A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryOlivia Rubin A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia GregoryOlivia Rubin A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory
Olivia Rubin A/W 2011. Photography by Amelia Gregory.

In a way it’s a shame that there was so much flimshaw surrounding this show because Olivia Rubin makes very cute clothes that feature colourful, fun prints and simple 80s styling. This collection encompassed giant splodgy animal prints, flowery brick designs and lacey goodness. To my mind not at all Essex.

As soon as the show was done the music leapt up to dancing volume, and yet more Essex girls headed to the toilets to touch up wondrously over-wrought hair and make-up that must surely have taken all day to perfect. I could happily have stayed next to the basins all night with my camera, but Matt and I instead drank free cocktails and put the world to rights.

You can read Matt Bramford’s fabby review here. Read our interview with Olivia Rubin here.

Categories ,80s, ,Danielle Lloyd, ,Essex, ,Jalouse, ,Jane Young, ,Karolina Burdon, ,Konnie Huq, ,Laura Goodger, ,lfw, ,London Kills Me, ,Matt Bramford, ,Nightclub, ,Olivia Inge, ,Olivia Rubin, ,The Only Way is Essex

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Amelia’s Magazine | London College of Fashion MA graduate collections

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Monday 26th January

Lucky Dragons
, health store Luminaire, viagra London

lucky_dragon.jpg

Pretentious blurb going on about birthing fragile networks of digital signals or whatever but don’t be put off as it should be an interesting night of experimental folktronica.

Zombie Zombie, Ruby Lounge, Manchester

French electro with a cool Germanic edge.

Michael Baker, Ida Brown, John Barrow, Slaughtered Lamb, London

Folk rock from Michael Baker with more acoustic sounds in support at this lovely, folk-oriented venue.

Tuesday 27th January

Grace Jones, Roundhouse, London

Grace_Jones.jpg

Will be nothing less than extraordinary show from this wildly experimental but still accessibly pop singer. Her new album is spectacular as we have raved on previous occasions and she is completely fantastic live.

Let’s Wrestle, Screaming Tea Party, Hoxton Square Bar and Kitchen, London

Fun party indie boys headline with cute bubblegum punk support from Screaming Tea Party.

Luke Haines, FreeDM studio at Roundhouse, London

He of the Auteurs and Black Box Recorder and self-proclaimed Britpop instigator plays his highly regarded solo material.

Wednesday 28th January

Crystal Antlers, Darker My Lover, Loverman, Ark People, Lexington, London

Crystal_Antlers.jpg

I will save my thesis on the fact that every single hip new band seems to be called Crystal something at the moment for another time. Instead catch the Antlers’ Long Beach raw punk on their first European tour. Sweaty, bruising fun.

Six Toes, The Mariner’s Children, Share, Slaughtered Lamb, London

Delicate and pretty, the exact antithesis of the Lexington gig. A Wednesday night of contrasts.

Thursday 29th January

George Pringle, Applicants, 4 or 5 Magicians, Buffalo Bar London

george_pringle.jpg

Spoken word to a stark electro backing track from George Pringle. Dead arty.

Glissando, City Screen, York

Gliding atmospheric sounds, perfectly suited to the cinema venue.

Friday 30th January

Afrikan Boy, The Real Heat, Barden’s Boudoir, London

afrikanboy_main.jpg

Signed to M.I.A.’s label, probably best known for his hilarious masterpiece about shoplifting bargain supermarkets.

Luminous Frenzy, Shunt Vaults, London

Where better than an underground dungeon club to see this haunting cinematic live show? Nowhere better.

Saturday 31st January

Stereo Total, Bar Rumba, London

Stereo_total.jpg

Like a Franco-German White Stripes (girl singer/drummer, boy guitarist) only about a million times more appealing and with a sense of humour. And nothing in common musically. Playing electro-punk reworkings of French chanson and ye-ye as well as their own charming and wittily insouciant numbers in French, German, English and any other languages they happen to have picked up.

Mike Bones, Oakford Social, Reading

Session guitarist supreme, turned solo singer-songwriter with interestingly lovelorn songs and none of the whingeing usually associated with that damning tag.

Micachu and the Shapes, Macbeth, London

On nearly everyone’s list of ones to watch 2009 (and of course, featured in Issue 10), catch Micachu’s angular and unpredictable show in a small venue while you still can.

Sky Larkin, Brudenell Social Club, Leeds

Homecoming gig for this local band whose sweet and clever indie rock is slightly off-kilter lending shades of Sonic Youth to their jangly guitars.

Sunday 1st February

Emmy the Great, Phoenix, Exeter

emmy_small.jpg

Promoting her debut album despite having been touring material for the past four years, with deceptively sweet-sounding tunes and scarily frank lyrics.

Last week, more about the London College of Fashion held it’s MA show in the beautiful Raphael gallery at the V&A. It’s very fitting that it took place during menswear fashion week, as twelve out of the nineteen collections were clothes for the boys.

It seems that menswear is finally standing up to its competitive and often overpowering opposite. Usually, the occasional dose of menswear in graduate collections – lets face it – never usually quite stands up to its womenswear rivals, this time round however, it was a different story. If the MA graduates set out to change the preconceptions of us voyeurs of fashion, who put the words ‘fashion’ and ‘womenswear’ hand in hand, they did a very good job with these collections.

Nowhere near boring – menswear and gave us gold, sequins, fringing and innovative tailoring fitted to a selection of 80′s looking, nu-romantic boys; flopping curls and eyeliner in check. Not to confuse these looks as steals from womenswear, masculinity was still very much in tact.

Here is a selection of the ones that caught our eye:

Dimitri Stavrou (below left) presented a very masculine interpretation of fringing through a skilled process of hand-frayed carbon fiber. The collection was inspired by the incest breeding of a Greek mythological God and mortal woman, a part human, part-animal crossover was explored through historical body armour and shapes created through movement.

Ji Yun Lapthorn’s ( below right)sophisticated and beautiful display of drapery and tailoring was a delicate and mesmerising affair. Soft folds created new shapes from heavy silk crepe, and cashmere showed a mature sensitivity to both form and fabric.
Demitri--Ji.jpg

Rohan-Kale.jpg
A futuristic rainbow of colour shone through with Rohan Kale’s (above) collection, where luxury and sustainability met in a beautiful patchwork of Spanish silk tie off-cuts. Entitled ‘The Two Christians’ his admiration for both Christian Dior and Christian Lacroix was explored in this rich, exuberant take on sharp, quality tailoring.

Sticking to a theme of bright colour, Carly Garwin (below) used neon pink as a metaphor for happiness in her Parisian inspired collection. Proportions were played with and innovative cutting gave a sophisticated feel to this collection, where leg baring tailored shorts matched with cropped capes for a refreshing male silhouette.
Carly-Garwin.jpg

Mihyun-Park.jpg
Miyhun Park (above) took us on a mystical journey under the sea, where fluidity merged with structure. Sheer dresses fitted to wire frames mimicked jellyfish like shapes, whilst creating a blurred and distorted vision of the underlying garments to leave an impression of being underwater.

Manjit-Deu.jpg
In a fitting and fair finale the battle between men’s and womenswear ended in a beautiful mixed collection from graduate Manjit Deu, (above) who won the Collection of the Year. Using the ever-popular sequin- in its new and more abstract rectangular shape – Manjit hand-embroidered dresses, hoodies and tops for a truly lavish and dazzling end to the show.

Categories ,80’s, ,Catwalk, ,London, ,London College of Fashion, ,Menswear, ,Student

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2010 Catwalk Review: Falguni & Shane Peacock

Falguni & Shane by Xenab Lone Jamil
Falguni & Shane by Xenab Lone Jamil
Falguni & Shane by Xenab Lone Jamil.

The invite for Falguni & Shane Peacock showed a plethora of jewelled leopards photoshopping their way out of a bodiced mannequin, symptoms in a shower of what looked feasibly like a large quantity of blood. Rendered in soothing hues of beige, closer dissection of what appeared at first glance to be quite tasteful revealed an image that was a little more disturbing. What could it all mean?

Falguni invite

Fortunately, or perhaps unfortunately, the design of the invite bore little relevance to the Falguni & Shane Peacock show early on Sunday morning at Victoria House, notable in it’s organisation for being quite disorganised. Looked after by Blow PR this weren’t. People piled in and sat wily nily where they fancied. No press bitches to move us along… always good for a front row seat I find. And the audience was indeed very different from other shows – featuring a preponderance of bejewelled, sunglass-bearing Asians and identikit gay men with badly bleached hair and orange skin.

Falguni & Shane by Xenab Lone Jamil
Falguni & Shane by Xenab Lone Jamil.

It came as no surprise to discover that Falguni & Shane Peacock are from India, with a publicity shot straight out of the Bollywood school of chic. “Where other designers travel thousands of miles for the luxury of the world’s largest selection of high quality fabrics and embellishments, the dynamic designer couple have it all at their fingertips,” trumpeted the publicity blurb. “They create and manufacture in-house at their factories and employ over 200 highly skilled seamsters and embroiderers.” Er, I’m sorry but I’m not sure that’s a particularly special feature if we’re talking clothing made in India. I think, for instance, that our very own Monsoon could probably claim the same kind of thing. Now what I would be interested in is the conditions of said employees, having spoken widely to designers working in the Indian fashion industry for issue 10 of Amelia’s Magazine, and being well aware of the level of equality (or lack thereof) for garment workers in that part of the world.

But maybe I’m just being mean, because Falguni & Shane also “support many charity causes relating to children and cancer.” Do you see what they did there? Children and cancer folks. You don’t get much more saintly than that.

Falguni & Shane Peacock. All photography by Amelia Gregory.
Falguni & Shane Peacock. All photography by Amelia Gregory.
Falguni & Shane Peacock. All photography by Amelia Gregory.
Falguni & Shane Peacock. All photography by Amelia Gregory.
Falguni & Shane Peacock. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Anyway, I digress. What were the clothes actually like? Well, there was no blood and no leopard print (very disappointing for an animal print fan like myself). Instead a succession of dresses in ultra sheer fabrics skimmed over naked bottoms unadorned with the bright geometrics applique and metallic frippery that adorned the fronts. According to the press release inspiration came from the abstract graphics of the 80s, but it’s amazing how an Indian sensibility can transform this into something so much more, well, glitzy. It isn’t hard to picture these clothes worn by Bollywood starlets – even, or perhaps because of, their revealing nature, for times have changed on the sub-continent, even if a taste for maximalist embellishment lives on.

Falguni & Shane Peacock. All photography by Amelia Gregory.
Falguni & Shane Peacock. All photography by Amelia Gregory.
Falguni & Shane Peacock. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

The most interesting piece was a sculptural turquoise dress, unfortunately worn by a particularly galumphing model who did its shape no justice. It was interesting to note that Falguni & Shane chose to totally eschew Indian models – maybe we don’t have enough, utter madness given the huge Asian diaspora in the UK – in favour of a host of slightly ropey models in every other colour under the sun.

Falguni & Shane by Xenab Lone Jamil
Falguni & Shane by Xenab Lone Jamil.

But what really intrigued me is why Falguni & Shane decided to show in London at all. It must have cost a fortune to put this show together, and their sensibility is very much geared towards their home audience. Perhaps they have their sights set on a potentially lucrative ex-pat community, which further begs the question, why not find models better suited to show the collection? Or perhaps the presence of the orange over-coiffured gays signifies a desire to hit the ex Page Three girl market. I might mention Jordan briefly here. There, I just did it. Jordan. See, did it again. Wonder how this will affect my website stats? Move along now… Sorry, no fake boobs/badly dyed wigs/car-crash marriages here.

And I’m not sure about that legendary craftsmanship – apparently the runway was littered with beads and bits of applique once the show was over.

Falguni & Shane Peacock. All photography by Amelia Gregory.
Falguni & Shane Peacock. Aw, they look very sweet don’t they? Have I been too mean…

Categories ,80s, ,abstract, ,Blow PR, ,Bollywood, ,Embellishment, ,Falguni & Shane, ,Geometrics, ,India, ,Jordan, ,Monsoon, ,Orange Gays, ,Page Three, ,Peacock, ,Sculptural, ,Sheer, ,Victoria House

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2010 Catwalk Review: Pam Hogg and Nick Cave, Peaches Geldof, Mika

Pedal-powered cinema: doesn’t require a spanner in the works

Oxford, approved for the most part, viagra is an academic, see civilised city, but last night it was very much in store for some monkey business. Yes, GAFI (The Great Apes Film Initiative), SOS (Sumatran Orangutan Society) and the Ape Alliance were in town at Oxford Brookes University holding a screening of a primate-driven conservation film, powered, not by dirty old carbon, but by pedal energy.

We’ve covered the subject of pedal-powered cinema in the earth section recently, of course, but this event partnered the unusual film viewing experience with an interesting initiative – namely, using it to help raise awareness of and finance for pedal-powered cinema opportunities in the remotest parts of the world. GAFI, under the wind of its c-founder and filmmaker Madelaine Westwood, has committed itself to showing conservation films to the public in remote areas that highlight the damage they and their society are doing to their own environment.

Madelaine, present at last night’s event, said that GAFI took up pedal-powered cinema as a resource after children in Cameroon had to walk 20 miles to a GAFI screening, only for a priest who had agreed his church could be used as the venue for the screening called it off, leaving the children to walk all the way back home without even having seen the documentary. A pedal-powered cinema kit, made up merely of a bicycle, a car battery, a DVD player and several different cables and coming in at a top price of just £2,000, was the answer. Thanks to this technology, GAFI can now screen films anywhere; on the side of a building’s wall or even a blanket.

Clever piece of kit: all you need is a bicycle, car battery, DVD player and lots of cables

Admittedly, last night’s screening may not have raised much towards this project – admission price was only £3 – but it was certainly well attended by an audience of up to 50 people, and not all of them obvious students either. And, in my opinion, the major feature shown, ‘Losing Tomorrow’ (directed by Patrick Rouxel), was certainly a success. Unlike the disappointment that was ‘Ice Bears Of The Beaufort’ I sat through at the Artivist Film Festival last weekend, this documentary successfully highlighted the problems – complex as they are – that blight both Sumatra’s primates, most of them orangutans, and the people who are involved in the logging industry that is depriving the monkeys of their habitat and the island of its rainforest.

Over the course of the last century, 50 percent of Sumatra’s rainforest has been cleared for logging, so dominant is the industry there – indeed, it’s estimated that just each day an area of rainforest the size of Manhattan is wiped out. However, suddenly to curtail the logging would rob a large number of people their livelihood – impoverished as they are – while, on the flip side, if the logging continues the country’s rainforest will be entirely wiped out and the logging employees without an industry to employ them anyway. It’s a fine Catch-22 with no easy answers. All the same, the audience was informed there is something they can do – contact their local MP or MEP to put pressure on the British government and the European parliament not to allow the import of timber furniture and wood pulp-produced paper that comes out of Sumatra – 75 percent of which is illegal anyway, so widespread is the logging industry there. The British government has so far made no move in this direction, but the European parliament has been looking into it, so there is some optimism, at least.

And we’re off! The cyclist pedals and the audience watches on

But what, specifically, of the pedal-powered cinema experience? Well, I must say, on a personal level, it’s rather an invigorating thing to be part of – or at least watch. On this occasion, as something of a gimmick, British cyclist and 2012 Olympic hopeful David Smith took to the pedals and, to give him his due, kept up an impressive tempo for about 45 minutes, before – a bit pooped – he handed over the reigns to another volunteer. There is certainly something agreeable about watching something worthy and well-crafted, while you’re aware the power that’s generating it is carbon free and directly man-produced – either that, or it’s just proof of the old maxim that it’s always enjoyable to watch someone working while you’re lazing about doing nothing. Either way, the pedal-powered cinema kit worked perfectly well and was a great advert for GAFI’s aspirations.

‘Losing Tomorrow’ was followed by the short documentary ‘Dear Mr President’. Filmed by Madeline Westwood herself, it showed reactions of Sumatran locals while watching the first documentary and then featured one or two of the viewers addressing, direct to camera, the Sumatran president at the time, asking him to do something about the primate/ logging problems in the country. ‘Dear Mr President’, we were subsequently informed, was indeed shown to the president, but just how much that act has achieved, of course, remains to be seen.

And how much can be done, in general, about Sumatra’s rainforest debacle remains to be seen too – but, as mentioned, we can all do something. For those interested, the MSc 10th anniversary conference on primate conservation will also be held at Oxford Brookes University on the April 23 and 24 – it’s open to everyone; the public as well as students and academics.
Pedal-powered cinema: doesn’t require a spanner in the works

Oxford, thumb for the most part, is an academic, civilised city, but last night it was very much in store for some monkey business. Yes, GAFI (The Great Apes Film Initiative), SOS (Sumatran Orangutan Society) and the Ape Alliance were in town at Oxford Brookes University holding a screening of a primate-driven conservation film, powered, not by dirty old carbon, but by pedal energy.

We’ve covered the subject of pedal-powered cinema in the earth section recently, of course, but this event partnered the unusual film viewing experience with an interesting initiative – namely, using it to help raise awareness of and finance for pedal-powered cinema opportunities in the remotest parts of the world. GAFI, under the wind of its c-founder and filmmaker Madelaine Westwood, has committed itself to showing conservation films to the public in remote areas that highlight the damage they and their society are doing to their own environment.

Madelaine, present at last night’s event, said that GAFI took up pedal-powered cinema as a resource after children in Cameroon had to walk 20 miles to a GAFI screening, only for a priest who had agreed his church could be used as the venue for the screening called it off, leaving the children to walk all the way back home without even having seen the documentary. A pedal-powered cinema kit, made up merely of a bicycle, a car battery, a DVD player and several different cables and coming in at a top price of just £2,000, was the answer. Thanks to this technology, GAFI can now screen films anywhere; on the side of a building’s wall or even a blanket.

Clever piece of kit: all you need is a bicycle, car battery, DVD player and lots of cables

Admittedly, last night’s screening may not have raised much towards this project – admission price was only £3 – but it was certainly well attended by an audience of up to 50 people, and not all of them obvious students either. And, in my opinion, the major feature shown, ‘Losing Tomorrow’ (directed by Patrick Rouxel), was certainly a success. Unlike the disappointment that was ‘Ice Bears Of The Beaufort’ I sat through at the Artivist Film Festival last weekend, this documentary successfully highlighted the problems – complex as they are – that blight both Sumatra’s primates, most of them orangutans, and the people who are involved in the logging industry that is depriving the monkeys of their habitat and the island of its rainforest.

Over the course of the last century, 50 percent of Sumatra’s rainforest has been cleared for logging, so dominant is the industry there – indeed, it’s estimated that just each day an area of rainforest the size of Manhattan is wiped out. However, suddenly to curtail the logging would rob a large number of people their livelihood – impoverished as they are – while, on the flip side, if the logging continues the country’s rainforest will be entirely wiped out and the logging employees without an industry to employ them anyway. It’s a fine Catch-22 with no easy answers. All the same, the audience was informed there is something they can do – contact their local MP or MEP to put pressure on the British government and the European parliament not to allow the import of timber furniture and wood pulp-produced paper that comes out of Sumatra – 75 percent of which is illegal anyway, so widespread is the logging industry there. The British government has so far made no move in this direction, but the European parliament has been looking into it, so there is some optimism, at least.

And we’re off! The cyclist pedals and the audience watches on

But what, specifically, of the pedal-powered cinema experience? Well, I must say, on a personal level, it’s rather an invigorating thing to be part of – or at least watch. On this occasion, as something of a gimmick, British cyclist and 2012 Olympic hopeful David Smith took to the pedals and, to give him his due, kept up an impressive tempo for about 45 minutes, before – a bit pooped – he handed over the reigns to another volunteer. There is certainly something agreeable about watching something worthy and well-crafted, while you’re aware the power that’s generating it is carbon free and directly man-produced – either that, or it’s just proof of the old maxim that it’s always enjoyable to watch someone working while you’re lazing about doing nothing. Either way, the pedal-powered cinema kit worked perfectly well and was a great advert for GAFI’s aspirations.

‘Losing Tomorrow’ was followed by the short documentary ‘Dear Mr President’. Filmed by Madeline Westwood herself, it showed reactions of Sumatran locals while watching the first documentary and then featured one or two of the viewers addressing, direct to camera, the Sumatran president at the time, asking him to do something about the primate/ logging problems in the country. ‘Dear Mr President’, we were subsequently informed, was indeed shown to the president, but just how much that act has achieved, of course, remains to be seen.

And how much can be done, in general, about Sumatra’s rainforest debacle remains to be seen too – but, as mentioned, we can all do something. For those interested, the MSc 10th anniversary conference on primate conservation will also be held at Oxford Brookes University on the April 23 and 24 – it’s open to everyone; the public as well as students and academics.
Pam-Hogg-A/W 2010 by Etiene  Del Monte
Pam Hogg by Etiene Del Monte.

Pam Hogg can pull in an all star rocker crowd and she knows it. I wondered if this begat the complex star sticker system on our invites, drugs which involved double gold stars for rock royalty (or just quite crap celebs), salve single gold stars (presumably for those not destined to make the next day’s paper but still quite important) and any number of other coloured stars for lesser mortals. The mere presence of a star was in itself no assurance of speedy entry, so it was lucky that I and a few of my contributors were already in Victoria House, drinking cups of tea on funny shaped chairs next to an abandoned display.

Amelia Gregory, Sally Mumby-Croft, Satu Fox
Yup, looking happy there girls. That’s me with contributors Satu Fox and Sally Mumby-Croft. Who don’t like posing clearly.

Jodie Marsh at Pam Hogg.
Jodie Marsh at Pam Hogg. This is what you look like if you make an effort, for a bit of contrast like…

This meant that we got to the front of the queue where we were able to get a perfect view of all the celebs as they came prancing in. Jodie Harsh looked every bit as wonderful in the flesh as she does in photos, but much less false (she puts natural born women to shame) and was more than happy to pose for me. Then came Tim Noble and Sue Webster, scowling as usual… Nick Cave swept through like a gothic prince, then came Pearl Lowe (dreadful biography, don’t do it) the execrable Jaime Winstone, Peaches Geldof (shoot me now) and apparently Mika in drag, though I didn’t see him at the time (bonus of leaving your write up awhile and being able to trawl the internet)

Jaimie Winstone at Pam Hogg
Jaime Winstone in the front row. She kept hoiking up her dress.

Peaches Geldof at Pam Hogg
Peaches Geldof in the limelight. Again. With a man who looked like the mascot for KFC. Great look.

We were also unceremoniously shoved aside by lots of arch looking people who I am sure were very rock ‘n’ roll but I have absolutely no idea who they actually were. Behind the barrage of hapless PRs – “Don’t worry, you’ll all be able to come in soon” – we could see people sloshing back free booze from a makeshift bar. How convenient that it should run out by the time us plebs were hastily shepherded in, just moments before the show started. Named Valley of the Shadow of Darkness, our noncommittal grey invites all had a tribute to Alexander McQueen at the bottom of the invitation, reading Lee RIP 1969-2010. Were they good friends? Or was she just showing fashionable solidarity?

Siouxie Soux at Pam Hogg by Amelia Gregory
Siouxie Soux at Pam Hogg. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Cult 80s singer Siouxie Sioux opened the show, looking extremely dramatic in barely there lace topped with a netting puffball. Unfortunately I don’t think the look did her many favours – she looked so severe that not only did I have no idea who she was, but I actually thought she was a middle-aged man in drag. Woops. She is 52 years old at the time of writing but she looks a helluva lot better in recent pictures found on google, so yes, Siouxie, I know you and Pammie have been bessie mates for, like, forever, but next time you might want to but your foot down before stepping out in something so unflattering. Here in an incongruous shot of the pair of them with Dame Shirley Bassey: surely not a bessie too?

Pam Hogg. Sophie Willing, photography by Amelia Gregory
Pam Hogg. photography by Amelia Gregory
Pam Hogg. Alice Dellal. photography by Amelia Gregory
Pam Hogg. photography by Amelia Gregory
Pam Hogg. photography by Amelia Gregory
Pam Hogg. Ben Grimes. photography by Amelia Gregory
Pam Hogg. photography by Amelia Gregory
Pam Hogg. photography by Amelia Gregory
Pam Hogg. photography by Amelia Gregory
Pam Hogg. photography by Amelia Gregory
Sophie Willing at Pam Hogg

Of course it’s well known that no one does glitzy catsuits and sexed-up bodycon quite like Pam Hogg, and so it was that we were treated to starry model after starry model attired in all manner of skin tight mesh pants suits, mini-dresses, many more netting hair bombs, and lots of bum-bouncing tulle with a bit of well placed ribbon or fluff. Panels of rubberised fabric, lace and shiny lame gave a futuristic feel which was emphasised in the bold black eyebrows, and splashes of silver, gold and bright red punctuated the otherwise steely palette of black, dark grey and white. One of the most striking red outfits was modelled by Alice Dellal, she of the asymmetric (currently) blonde hair and sulky pout, and has since been modelled by no less than Lady Gaga (on the short trip from the O2 Arena to her hotel, if reports are to be believed), though I’m not sure she really pulled it off with those ripped fishnets. I think Pam Hogg is worn most successfully when all around is sleek.

Pam-Hogg-A/W 2010-sophie willing & jethro cave, by Etiene Del Monte
Sophie Willing & Jethro Cave, by Etiene Del Monte.

When the lone male model stopped for a mannered snog with one of the girls halfway down the runway to whoops and cheers, I knew they must be well known. A google search further revealed the real reason for Nick Cave’s attendance: the beautiful skinny boy was none other than his son Jethro Cave, and he was kissing Sophie Willing, a fellow Ozzie model and also his girlfriend. Together they appear in a tacky bondage inspired photoshoot called Boys Will Be Toys. Tasteful. Apparently daddy was very proud. Also in attendance was model du jour, Ben Grimes. That’s a girl in case you were wondering.

Pam-Hogg-A/W 2010-Etiene Del Monte
Sophie Willing plays the sexy angel, by Etiene Del Monte.

Sophie Willing and Jethro Cave at Pam Hogg

Siouxie Soux and Pam Hogg
Siouxie Soux and Pam Hogg.

At the end Pam came right down along the catwalk in a hug with Siouxie Soux towering over her – she looked very much like a cartoon character in skintight shiny black, sporting fake bright yellow hair. She has always catered well to rock royalty but I can suddenly see why she might appeal to Lady Gaga’s pop sensibility as well. But I’m left with the pressing question: who dyed their hair that vicious shade of Ed the Duck yellow first?

Categories ,80s, ,Alice Dellal, ,Ben Grimes, ,celebrities, ,Etiene Del Monte, ,Fluff, ,Free Bar, ,Jaime Winstone, ,Jethro Cave, ,lace, ,Lady Gaga, ,Lame, ,London Fashion Week, ,Mika, ,Net, ,Nick Cave, ,Pam Hogg, ,Peaches Geldof, ,pop, ,Rock ‘n’ Roll, ,Siouxie Soux, ,Sophie Willing, ,Tim Noble and Sue Webster, ,Tulle, ,Victoria House

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2010 Catwalk Review: Ramon Gurillo and Bodyamr

Charles Anastase4

Watching the show, nurse seek something niggled, buy information pills what reference was missing – apart from the immediates being the 70’s and the French Revolution – there was something else, something that was coming through in the occasional bundled up model. I battered it aside, thinking no – these thoughts are from reading The Road recently, and it’s discriptions of the belegaured wrapped up souls have become stuck in one’s mind.

And then out walked the below outfit, framed by the soft bordering on romantic hair, taffata and block colours of the thick thick Anastase layers, was the only full face painted experience of the whole show. In the context of the aforementioned taffata it provided a disconcerting effect, summering images of the cults avoided in desperation along the desolated world in Cormac McCarthy’s The Road.

Charles Anastase 5

Not wanting to read too much into this, thinking the show contained enough references- from languid lazy glamour completed by Linda Farrow sunglasses to the idea that one might have preferred to have been born in France several years ago. The thought that this was another designer considering the apocalyptic nature of future was left dangling, as I unfortunately did not have access to a press release until The Telegraph posted on the show, answered my suspicions:

“Charles Anastase, made climate change the theme of his collection for next autumn/winter”.

Now I seriously doubt that in an actual apocalypse we would wear towering wedges whilst bound in constrictive felt, it is always interesting to see how designers portray thoughts and fears from outside of Fashion. Last season saw Bernard Chandran, James Long and Katie Eary presented two vesions of clothes to be worn in a dystopic future. Whilst harder than Anastase, a sense of fear of the unknown remains within all three collections.

Charles Anastase 1

Anastase’s was a short introduction into the designer’s current range of thoughts. It will be interesting to see what is presented at next season’s show. It was great to see a return to the sophistication that length and fabric can offe after what seems like endless seasons of thigh high body tight flesh exposing nothingness.

Charles Anastase2

Photographs by Elizabeth Johnson
Charles Anastase4

Watching the show, thumb something niggled, viagra order what reference was missing – apart from the immediates being the 70’s and the French Revolution – there was something else, something that was coming through in the occasional bundled up model. I battered it aside, thinking no – these thoughts are from reading The Road recently, and it’s discriptions of the belegaured wrapped up souls have become stuck in one’s mind.

And then out walked the below outfit, framed by the soft bordering on romantic hair, taffata and block colours of the thick thick Anastase layers, was the only full face painted experience of the whole show. In the context of the aforementioned taffata it provided a disconcerting effect, summering images of the cults avoided in desperation along the desolated world in Cormac McCarthy’s The Road.

Charles Anastase 5

Not wanting to read too much into this, thinking the show contained enough references- from languid lazy glamour completed by Linda Farrow sunglasses to the idea that one might have preferred to have been born in France several years ago. The thought that this was another designer considering the apocalyptic nature of future was left dangling, as I unfortunately did not have access to a press release until The Telegraph posted on the show, answered my suspicions:

“Charles Anastase, made climate change the theme of his collection for next autumn/winter”.

Now I seriously doubt that in an actual apocalypse we would wear towering wedges whilst bound in constrictive felt, it is always interesting to see how designers portray thoughts and fears from outside of Fashion. Last season saw Bernard Chandran, James Long and Katie Eary presented two vesions of clothes to be worn in a dystopic future. Whilst harder than Anastase, a sense of fear of the unknown remains within all three collections.

Charles Anastase 1

Anastase’s was a short introduction into the designer’s current range of thoughts. It will be interesting to see what is presented at next season’s show. It was great to see a return to the sophistication that length and fabric can offe after what seems like endless seasons of thigh high body tight flesh exposing nothingness.

Charles Anastase2

Photographs by Elizabeth Johnson
Charles Anastase4

Watching the show, this something niggled, stuff what reference was missing – apart from the immediates being the 70’s and the French Revolution – there was something else, something that was coming through in the occasional bundled up model. I battered it aside, thinking no – these thoughts are from reading The Road recently, and it’s discriptions of the belegaured wrapped up souls have become stuck in one’s mind.

And then out walked the below outfit, framed by the soft bordering on romantic hair, taffata and block colours of the thick thick Anastase layers, was the only full face painted experience of the whole show. In the context of the aforementioned taffata it provided a disconcerting effect, summering images of the cults avoided in desperation along the desolated world in Cormac McCarthy’s The Road.

Charles Anastase 5

Not wanting to read too much into this, thinking the show contained enough references- from languid lazy glamour completed by Linda Farrow sunglasses to the idea that one might have preferred to have been born in France several years ago. The thought that this was another designer considering the apocalyptic nature of future was left dangling, as I unfortunately did not have access to a press release until The Telegraph posted on the show, answered my suspicions:

“Charles Anastase, made climate change the theme of his collection for next autumn/winter”.

Now I seriously doubt that in an actual apocalypse we would wear towering wedges whilst bound in constrictive felt, it is always interesting to see how designers portray thoughts and fears from outside of Fashion. Last season saw Bernard Chandran, James Long and Katie Eary presented two vesions of clothes to be worn in a dystopic future. Whilst harder than Anastase, a sense of fear of the unknown remains within all three collections.

Charles Anastase 1

Anastase’s was a short introduction into the designer’s current range of thoughts. It will be interesting to see what is presented at next season’s show. It was great to see a return to the sophistication that length and fabric can offe after what seems like endless seasons of thigh high body tight flesh exposing nothingness.

Charles Anastase2

Photographs by Elizabeth Johnson
Charles Anastase4

Watching the show, viagra something niggled, pills what reference was missing – apart from the immediates being the 70’s and the French Revolution – there was something else, case something that was coming through in the occasional bundled up model. I battered it aside, thinking no – these thoughts are from reading The Road recently, and it’s discriptions of the belegaured wrapped up souls have become stuck in one’s mind.

And then out walked the below outfit, framed by the soft bordering on romantic hair, taffata and block colours of the thick thick Anastase layers, was the only full face painted experience of the whole show. In the context of the aforementioned taffata it provided a disconcerting effect, summering images of the cults avoided in desperation along the desolated world in Cormac McCarthy’s The Road.

Charles Anastase 5

Not wanting to read too much into this, thinking the show contained enough references- from languid lazy glamour completed by Linda Farrow sunglasses to the idea that one might have preferred to have been born in France several years ago. The thought that this was another designer considering the apocalyptic nature of future was left dangling, as I unfortunately did not have access to a press release until The Telegraph posted on the show, answered my suspicions:

“Charles Anastase, made climate change the theme of his collection for next autumn/winter”.

Now I seriously doubt that in an actual apocalypse we would wear towering wedges whilst bound in constrictive felt, it is always interesting to see how designers portray thoughts and fears from outside of Fashion. Last season saw Bernard Chandran, James Long and Katie Eary presented two vesions of clothes to be worn in a dystopic future. Whilst harder than Anastase, a sense of fear of the unknown remains within all three collections.

Charles Anastase 1

Anastase’s was a short introduction into the designer’s current range of thoughts. It will be interesting to see what is presented at next season’s show. It was great to see a return to the sophistication that length and fabric can offe after what seems like endless seasons of thigh high body tight flesh exposing nothingness.

Charles Anastase2

Photographs by Elizabeth Johnson
Charles Anastase4

Watching the show, discount something niggled, pharmacy what reference was missing – apart from the immediates being the 70’s and the French Revolution – there was something else, price something that was coming through in the occasional bundled up model. I battered it aside, thinking no – these thoughts are from reading The Road recently, and it’s discriptions of the belegaured wrapped up souls have become stuck in one’s mind.

And then out walked the below outfit, framed by the soft bordering on romantic hair, taffata and block colours of the thick thick Anastase layers, was the only full face painted experience of the whole show. In the context of the aforementioned taffata it provided a disconcerting effect, summering images of the cults avoided in desperation along the desolated world in Cormac McCarthy’s The Road.

Charles Anastase 5

Charles Anastase Autumn Winter 2010 was a busy show reference wise – from languid lazy glamour completed by Linda Farrow sunglasses to the idea that one might have preferred to have been born in France several years ago. The thought that another was designer considering the apocalyptic nature of future was left dangling. Until The Telegraph posted on the show, answering my suspicions:

“Charles Anastase, made climate change the theme of his collection for next autumn/winter”.

Now I seriously doubt that in an actual apocalypse we would wear towering wedges whilst bound in constrictive felt, however, it is always interesting to see how designers portray thoughts and fears from the News or mass media obsessions. Last season saw Bernard Chandran, James Long and Katie Eary present their visions of what clothes to be worn in a dystopic future. Whilst harder than Anastase, a sense of fear of the unknown remains within all four of these exploratory collections.

Charles Anastase 1

Anastase’s was a short introduction into the designer’s current range of thoughts and experimentations – from the aforementioned to the patterns that could only be described as 70′s carpet chic. It was at the same time, great to see a return to the potential sophistication offered by length and fabric after what feels like endless seasons of thigh high body tight flesh exposing nothingness. It will be interesting to see how these themes will be developed for next season’s show.

Charles Anastase2

Photographs by Elizabeth Johnson
Prophetik by Etiene Del Monte
Prophetik by Etiene Del Monte

We were shepherded into the one of the grand rooms at the Freemasons’ Hall by a blonde lady on a very high horse. In the atrium we were offered organic chocolates to nibble on (by Chocolala, they were AMAZING) and plastic cups of wine. All of this before lunchtime! So far so very extravagant.

A pretty curlicued silver sticker on my Prophetik flyer boded well, ed and I was duly ushered to the front row. Always nice to know you’re meant to be there, page rather than trying it on in the hope no one will move you. Whilst the show took forever to start, Matt and I dug around in the overflowing goodie bags, revealing a suit bag, an iphone amplifier dock, a sponsored notebook, organic toiletries and more chocolate, to name just a few items of ecojunk. Free frippery is to be expected at Fashion Week but I use the term ecojunk because of Prophetik’s “wearable philosophy” of promoting eco fashion. Of course any move towards sustainability is to be applauded, but then surely stick to recycled gifts? Or something more suited to said philosophy? Needless to say I took everything home anyway because that’s the way I’m programmed, but I couldn’t help feeling just a little bit guilty in doing so.

Eventually we heard the strains of a live violinist, who was soon joined by an acoustic guitarist, followed shortly after by an entire middle aged rock band, replete with bare chests and swinging medallions. Checking my show notes I’ve since discovered that this band included none other than members of Def Leppard and the Sex Pistols. Woah! Veering unexpectedly to a grinding holt, Massive Attack suddenly crashed onto the sound system. Then it was back to live rock, a bit of piped rave and finally the beautiful strains of the gospel song “I’ll fly away” – a refrain that I sing around the camp fire with friends.

I expect this was all meant to segue seamlessly together but this was sadly not the case, and it says something that it’s the music that I am talking about first and not the clothes – overall it was an unsatisfactory and entirely unnecessary distraction.

Prophetik by Etiene Del Monte
Prophetik by Etiene Del Monte

The clothes? Well I was going to be quite rude about them, but then I met the PR who invited me, and read a bit more about Prophetik on their website, discovering that there is a touching ecological and communitarian philosophy behind the brand. And then I met the PR again in the queue for a show the next day, and this time was introduced to the American designer Jeff Garner. Aiee!! So I will be a little nicer.

I loved the way the show opened (music aside), with a girl whisking between the musicians in a black dress like a fair maiden in mourning. From then on jodphurs and military themed tailored pieces jostled alongside bulbous bell shaped crinoline fairytale princess dresses (my favourite outfits) next to ill advised crushed velvet sweeping gowns – all worn by fair skinned ladies with blonde or red hair. There were a few bits of menswear thrown in for good measure and I found myself idly wondering how I ever used to find male models attractive (so young, so… nothingy. I must be getting old) – instead I was more interested in looking at the wiggy men in the fancy paintings on the walls. When I checked my twitter feed in a moment of boredom (sorry nice PR lady, sorry Mr. Designer man) I noted that everyone seemed inadversely excited by the thigh high boots. Is that a good sign? I suppose I just felt that the whole thing was a bit of a mishmash – with some interesting pieces that didn’t ever seem to add up to a strong whole collection. And the music really really didn’t help matters. At all. Got that?

However, I think it’s admirable that Prophetik are taking ecological ideals into consideration and hope to read up more on their philosophy at a point where I am not madly dashing around fashion week. In the meantime, I wish them all the best and hope I a) don’t run into them again at the shows or b) they’re happy to take on board a bit of constructive criticism. Please don’t kill me! And aren’t the illustrations by Etiene del Monte wonderful?

Prophetik by Etiene Del Monte
Prophetik by Etiene Del Monte

We were shepherded into the one of the grand rooms at the Freemasons’ Hall by a blonde lady on a very high horse. In the atrium we were offered organic chocolates to nibble on (by Chocolala, tadalafil they were AMAZING) and plastic cups of wine. All of this before lunchtime! So far so very extravagant.

A pretty curlicued silver sticker on my Prophetik flyer boded well, buy more about and I was duly ushered to the front row. Always nice to know you’re meant to be there, viagra 40mg rather than trying to pull a fast one in the hope that no one will move you on. Whilst the show took forever to start, Matt and I dug around in the overflowing goodie bags, revealing a suit bag, an iphone amplifier dock, a sponsored notebook, organic toiletries and more chocolate, to name just a few items of ecojunk. Free frippery is to be expected at Fashion Week but I use the term ecojunk because of Prophetik’s “wearable philosophy” of promoting eco fashion. Of course any move towards sustainability is to be applauded, but then surely stick to recycled gifts? Or something more suited to said philosophy? Needless to say I took everything home anyway because that’s the way I’m programmed, but I couldn’t help feeling just a little bit guilty in doing so.

Eventually we heard the strains of a live violinist, who was soon joined by an acoustic guitarist, followed shortly after by an entire middle aged rock band, replete with bare chests and swinging medallions. Checking my show notes I’ve since discovered that this band included none other than members of Def Leppard and the Sex Pistols. Woah! Veering unexpectedly to a grinding holt, Massive Attack suddenly crashed onto the sound system. Then it was back to live rock, a bit of piped rave and finally the beautiful strains of the gospel song “I’ll fly away” – a refrain that I like to sing around the camp fire with friends. I expect this was all meant to segue seamlessly together but this was sadly not the case, and it says something that it’s the music that I am talking about first and not the clothes – overall it was an unsatisfactory and entirely unnecessary distraction.

Prophetik by Etiene Del Monte
Prophetik by Etiene Del Monte

The clothes? Well, I met the PR who invited me in the queue for a show on Saturday, and was introduced to the American designer Jeff Garner, (Aiee!!) and I’ve since read a bit more about Prophetik on their website, discovering that there is a touching ecological and communitarian philosophy behind the brand. So I will be considered in what I say…

I loved the way the show opened (music aside), with a girl whisking between the musicians in a black dress like a fair maiden in mourning. From then on jodphurs and military themed tailored pieces jostled alongside bulbous bell shaped crinoline fairytale princess dresses (my favourite outfits) next to ill advised crushed velvet sweeping gowns – all worn by fair skinned ladies with blonde or red hair. There were a few bits of menswear thrown in for good measure and I found myself idly wondering how I ever used to find male models attractive (so young, so… nothingy. I must be getting old) – instead I was more interested in looking at the wiggy men in the fancy paintings on the walls. When I checked my twitter feed in a moment of boredom (sorry nice PR lady, sorry Mr. Designer man) I noted that everyone seemed inadversely excited by the thigh high boots. Is that a good sign? I suppose I just felt that the whole thing was a bit of a mishmash – with some interesting pieces that didn’t ever seem to add up to a strong whole collection. And the music really really didn’t help matters. At all. Got that?

However, I think it’s admirable that Prophetik are taking ecological ideals into consideration and hope to read up more on their philosophy at a point where I am not madly dashing around fashion week. In the meantime, I wish them all the best and hope I a) don’t run into them again at the shows or b) they’re happy to take on board a bit of constructive criticism. Please don’t kill me! And aren’t the illustrations by Etiene del Monte wonderful?

Prophetik by Etiene Del Monte
Prophetik by Etiene Del Monte

We were shepherded into the one of the grand rooms at the Freemasons’ Hall by a blonde lady on a very high horse. In the atrium we were offered organic chocolates to nibble on (by Chocolala, tadalafil they were AMAZING) and plastic cups of wine. All of this before lunchtime! So far so very extravagant.

A pretty curlicued silver sticker on my Prophetik flyer boded well, ailment and I was duly ushered to the front row. Always nice to know you’re meant to be there, pharm rather than trying to pull a fast one in the hope that no one will move you on. Whilst the show took forever to start, Matt and I dug around in the overflowing goodie bags, revealing a suit bag, an iphone amplifier dock, a sponsored notebook, organic toiletries and more chocolate, to name just a few items of ecojunk. Free frippery is to be expected at Fashion Week but I use the term ecojunk because of Prophetik’s “wearable philosophy” of promoting eco fashion. Of course any move towards sustainability is to be applauded, but then surely stick to recycled gifts? Or something more suited to said philosophy? Needless to say I took everything home anyway because that’s the way I’m programmed, but I couldn’t help feeling just a little bit guilty in doing so.

Eventually we heard the strains of a live violinist, who was soon joined by an acoustic guitarist, followed shortly after by an entire middle aged rock band, replete with bare chests and swinging medallions. Checking my show notes I’ve since discovered that this band included none other than members of Def Leppard and the Sex Pistols. Woah! Veering unexpectedly to a grinding holt, Massive Attack suddenly crashed onto the sound system. Then it was back to live rock, a bit of piped rave and finally the beautiful strains of the gospel song “I’ll fly away” – a refrain that I sing around the camp fire with friends.

I expect this was all meant to segue seamlessly together but this was sadly not the case, and it says something that it’s the music that I am talking about first and not the clothes – overall it was an unsatisfactory and entirely unnecessary distraction.

Prophetik by Etiene Del Monte
Prophetik by Etiene Del Monte

The clothes? Well I was going to be quite rude about them, but then I met the PR who invited me, and read a bit more about Prophetik on their website, discovering that there is a touching ecological and communitarian philosophy behind the brand. And then I met the PR again in the queue for a show the next day, and this time was introduced to the American designer Jeff Garner. Aiee!! So I will be a little nicer.

I loved the way the show opened (music aside), with a girl whisking between the musicians in a black dress like a fair maiden in mourning. From then on jodphurs and military themed tailored pieces jostled alongside bulbous bell shaped crinoline fairytale princess dresses (my favourite outfits) next to ill advised crushed velvet sweeping gowns – all worn by fair skinned ladies with blonde or red hair. There were a few bits of menswear thrown in for good measure and I found myself idly wondering how I ever used to find male models attractive (so young, so… nothingy. I must be getting old) – instead I was more interested in looking at the wiggy men in the fancy paintings on the walls. When I checked my twitter feed in a moment of boredom (sorry nice PR lady, sorry Mr. Designer man) I noted that everyone seemed inadversely excited by the thigh high boots. Is that a good sign? I suppose I just felt that the whole thing was a bit of a mishmash – with some interesting pieces that didn’t ever seem to add up to a strong whole collection. And the music really really didn’t help matters. At all. Got that?

However, I think it’s admirable that Prophetik are taking ecological ideals into consideration and hope to read up more on their philosophy at a point where I am not madly dashing around fashion week. In the meantime, I wish them all the best and hope I a) don’t run into them again at the shows or b) they’re happy to take on board a bit of constructive criticism. Please don’t kill me! And aren’t the illustrations by Etiene del Monte wonderful?

Prophetik by Etiene Del Monte
Prophetik by Etiene Del Monte

We were shepherded into the one of the grand rooms at the Freemasons’ Hall by a blonde lady on a very high horse. In the atrium we were offered organic chocolates to nibble on (by Chocolala, store they were AMAZING) and plastic cups of wine. All of this before lunchtime! So far so very extravagant.

A pretty curlicued silver sticker on my Prophetik flyer boded well, information pills and I was duly ushered to the front row. Always nice to know you’re meant to be there, approved rather than trying to pull a fast one in the hope that no one will move you on. Whilst the show took forever to start, Matt and I dug around in the overflowing goodie bags, revealing a suit bag, an iphone amplifier dock, a sponsored notebook, organic toiletries and more chocolate, to name just a few items of ecojunk. Free frippery is to be expected at Fashion Week but I use the term ecojunk because of Prophetik’s “wearable philosophy” of promoting eco fashion. Of course any move towards sustainability is to be applauded, but then surely stick to recycled gifts? Or something more suited to said philosophy? Needless to say I took everything home anyway because that’s the way I’m programmed, but I couldn’t help feeling just a little bit guilty in doing so.

Eventually we heard the strains of a live violinist, who was soon joined by an acoustic guitarist, followed shortly after by an entire middle aged rock band, replete with bare chests and swinging medallions. Checking my show notes I’ve since discovered that this band included none other than members of Def Leppard and the Sex Pistols. Woah! Veering unexpectedly to a grinding holt, Massive Attack suddenly crashed onto the sound system. Then it was back to live rock, a bit of piped rave and finally the beautiful strains of the gospel song “I’ll fly away” – a refrain that I sing around the camp fire with friends.

I expect this was all meant to segue seamlessly together but this was sadly not the case, and it says something that it’s the music that I am talking about first and not the clothes – overall it was an unsatisfactory and entirely unnecessary distraction.

Prophetik by Etiene Del Monte
Prophetik by Etiene Del Monte

The clothes? Well I was going to be quite rude about them, but then I met the PR who invited me, and read a bit more about Prophetik on their website, discovering that there is a touching ecological and communitarian philosophy behind the brand. And then I met the PR again in the queue for a show the next day, and this time was introduced to the American designer Jeff Garner. Aiee!! So I will be a little nicer.

I loved the way the show opened (music aside), with a girl whisking between the musicians in a black dress like a fair maiden in mourning. From then on jodphurs and military themed tailored pieces jostled alongside bulbous bell shaped crinoline fairytale princess dresses (my favourite outfits) next to ill advised crushed velvet sweeping gowns – all worn by fair skinned ladies with blonde or red hair. There were a few bits of menswear thrown in for good measure and I found myself idly wondering how I ever used to find male models attractive (so young, so… nothingy. I must be getting old) – instead I was more interested in looking at the wiggy men in the fancy paintings on the walls. When I checked my twitter feed in a moment of boredom (sorry nice PR lady, sorry Mr. Designer man) I noted that everyone seemed inadversely excited by the thigh high boots. Is that a good sign? I suppose I just felt that the whole thing was a bit of a mishmash – with some interesting pieces that didn’t ever seem to add up to a strong whole collection. And the music really really didn’t help matters. At all. Got that?

However, I think it’s admirable that Prophetik are taking ecological ideals into consideration and hope to read up more on their philosophy at a point where I am not madly dashing around fashion week. In the meantime, I wish them all the best and hope I a) don’t run into them again at the shows or b) they’re happy to take on board a bit of constructive criticism. Please don’t kill me! And aren’t the illustrations by Etiene del Monte wonderful?

Prophetik by Etiene Del Monte
Prophetik by Etiene Del Monte

We were shepherded into the one of the grand rooms at the Freemasons’ Hall by a blonde lady on a very high horse. In the atrium we were offered organic chocolates to nibble on (by Chocolala, viagra order they were AMAZING) and plastic cups of wine. All of this before lunchtime! So far so very extravagant.

A pretty curlicued silver sticker on my Prophetik flyer boded well, visit web and I was duly ushered to the front row. Always nice to know you’re meant to be there, ailment rather than trying to pull a fast one in the hope that no one will move you on. Whilst the show took forever to start, Matt and I dug around in the overflowing goodie bags, revealing a suit bag, an iphone amplifier dock, a sponsored notebook, organic toiletries and more chocolate, to name just a few items of ecojunk. Free frippery is to be expected at Fashion Week but I use the term ecojunk because of Prophetik’s “wearable philosophy” of promoting eco fashion. Of course any move towards sustainability is to be applauded, but then surely stick to recycled gifts? Or something more suited to said philosophy? Needless to say I took everything home anyway because that’s the way I’m programmed, but I couldn’t help feeling just a little bit guilty in doing so.

Eventually we heard the strains of a live violinist, who was soon joined by an acoustic guitarist, followed shortly after by an entire middle aged rock band, replete with bare chests and swinging medallions. Checking my show notes I’ve since discovered that this band included none other than members of Def Leppard and the Sex Pistols. Woah! Veering unexpectedly to a grinding holt, Massive Attack suddenly crashed onto the sound system. Then it was back to live rock, a bit of piped rave and finally the beautiful strains of the gospel song “I’ll fly away” – a refrain that I like to sing around the camp fire with friends. I expect this was all meant to segue seamlessly together but this was sadly not the case, and it says something that it’s the music that I am talking about first and not the clothes – overall it was an unsatisfactory and entirely unnecessary distraction.

Prophetik by Etiene Del Monte
Prophetik by Etiene Del Monte

The clothes? Well, I met the PR who invited me in the queue for a show on Saturday, and was introduced to the American designer Jeff Garner, (Aiee!!) and I’ve since read a bit more about Prophetik on their website, discovering that there is a touching ecological and communitarian philosophy behind the brand. So I will be considered in what I say…

I loved the way the show opened (music aside), with a girl whisking between the musicians in a black dress like a fair maiden in mourning. From then on jodphurs and military themed tailored pieces jostled alongside bulbous bell shaped crinoline fairytale princess dresses (my favourite outfits) next to ill advised crushed velvet sweeping gowns – all worn by fair skinned ladies with blonde or red hair. There were a few bits of menswear thrown in for good measure and I found myself idly wondering how I ever used to find male models attractive (so young, so… nothingy. I must be getting old) – instead I was more interested in looking at the wiggy men in the fancy paintings on the walls. When I checked my twitter feed in a moment of boredom (sorry nice PR lady, sorry Mr. Designer man) I noted that everyone seemed inadversely excited by the thigh high boots. Is that a good sign? I suppose I just felt that the whole thing was a bit of a mishmash – with some interesting pieces that didn’t ever seem to add up to a strong whole collection. And the music really really didn’t help matters. At all. Got that?

However, I think it’s admirable that Prophetik are taking ecological ideals into consideration and hope to read up more on their philosophy at a point where I am not madly dashing around fashion week. In the meantime, I wish them all the best and hope I a) don’t run into them again at the shows or b) they’re happy to take on board a bit of constructive criticism. Please don’t kill me! And aren’t the illustrations by Etiene del Monte wonderful?

Prophetik by Etiene Del Monte
Prophetik by Etiene Del Monte

We were shepherded into the one of the grand rooms at the Freemasons’ Hall by a blonde lady on a very high horse. In the atrium we were offered organic chocolates to nibble on (by Chocolala, discount they were AMAZING) and plastic cups of wine. All of this before lunchtime! So far so very extravagant.

A pretty curlicued silver sticker on my Prophetik flyer boded well, and I was duly ushered to the front row. Always nice to know you’re meant to be there, rather than trying to pull a fast one in the hope that no one will move you on. Whilst the show took forever to start, Matt and I dug around in the overflowing goodie bags, revealing a suit bag, an iphone amplifier dock, a sponsored notebook, organic toiletries and more chocolate, to name just a few items of ecojunk. Free frippery is to be expected at Fashion Week but I use the term ecojunk because of Prophetik’s “wearable philosophy” of promoting eco fashion. Of course any move towards sustainability is to be applauded, but then surely stick to recycled gifts? Or something more suited to said philosophy? Needless to say I took everything home anyway because that’s the way I’m programmed, but I couldn’t help feeling just a little bit guilty in doing so.

Eventually we heard the strains of a live violinist, who was soon joined by an acoustic guitarist, followed shortly after by an entire middle aged rock band, replete with bare chests and swinging medallions. Checking my show notes I’ve since discovered that this band included none other than members of Def Leppard and the Sex Pistols. Woah! Veering unexpectedly to a grinding holt, Massive Attack suddenly crashed onto the sound system. Then it was back to live rock, a bit of piped rave and finally the beautiful strains of the gospel song “I’ll fly away” – a refrain that I like to sing around the camp fire with friends. I expect this was all meant to segue seamlessly together but this was sadly not the case, and it says something that it’s the music that I am talking about first and not the clothes – overall it was an unsatisfactory and entirely unnecessary distraction.

Prophetik by Etiene Del Monte
Prophetik by Etiene Del Monte

The clothes? Well, I met the PR who invited me in the queue for a show on Saturday, and was introduced to the American designer Jeff Garner, (Aiee!! He’s a published poet and all! Quite a good one if the ditty he penned to accompany the show is anything to go by) and I’ve since read a bit more about Prophetik on their website, discovering that there is a touching ecological and communitarian philosophy behind the brand. So I will be considered in what I say…

I loved the way the show opened (music aside), with a girl whisking between the musicians in a black dress like a fair maiden in mourning rushing away from her castle on high. From then on jodphurs and military themed tailored pieces jostled alongside bulbous bell-shaped crinoline fairytale princess dresses (my favourite outfits) next to ill advised crushed velvet sweeping gowns – all worn by fair skinned ladies with blonde or red hair. There were a few bits of menswear thrown in for good measure and I found myself idly wondering how I ever used to find male models attractive (so young, so… nothingy. I must be getting old) – instead I was more interested in looking at the wiggy men in the fancy paintings on the walls. When I checked my twitter feed in a moment of boredom (sorry nice PR lady, sorry Mr. Designer man) I noted that everyone seemed inadversely excited by the thigh high boots. Is that a good sign? I suppose I just felt that the whole thing was a bit of a mishmash – with some interesting pieces that didn’t ever seem to add up to a strong whole collection. And the music really really didn’t help matters. At all. Got that?

However, I think it’s admirable that Prophetik are taking ecological ideals into consideration, making the collection entirely from sustainable fabrics such as hemp, bamboo, organic cotton and recycled materials. I hope to read up more on their philosophy at a point where I am not madly dashing around fashion week. In the meantime, I wish them all the best and hope I a) don’t run into them again at the shows or b) they’re happy to take on board a bit of constructive criticism. Please don’t kill me! And aren’t the illustrations by Etiene del Monte wonderful?

Prophetik by Etiene Del Monte
Prophetik by Etiene Del Monte

We were shepherded into the one of the grand rooms at the Freemasons’ Hall by a blonde lady on a very high horse. In the atrium we were offered organic chocolates to nibble on (by Chocolala, order they were AMAZING) and plastic cups of wine. All of this before lunchtime! So far so very extravagant.

A pretty curlicued silver sticker on my Prophetik flyer boded well, purchase and I was duly ushered to the front row. Always nice to know you’re meant to be there, rather than trying to pull a fast one in the hope that no one will move you on. Whilst the show took forever to start, Matt and I dug around in the overflowing goodie bags, revealing a suit bag, an iphone amplifier dock, a sponsored notebook, organic toiletries and more chocolate, to name just a few items of ecojunk. Free frippery is to be expected at Fashion Week but I use the term ecojunk because of Prophetik’s “wearable philosophy” of promoting eco fashion. Of course any move towards sustainability is to be applauded, but then surely stick to recycled gifts? Or something more suited to said philosophy? Needless to say I took everything home anyway because that’s the way I’m programmed, but I couldn’t help feeling just a little bit guilty in doing so.

Eventually we heard the strains of a live violinist, who was soon joined by an acoustic guitarist, followed shortly after by an entire middle aged rock band, replete with bare chests and swinging medallions. Checking my show notes I’ve since discovered that this band included none other than members of Def Leppard and the Sex Pistols. Woah! Veering unexpectedly to a grinding holt, Massive Attack suddenly crashed onto the sound system. Then it was back to live rock, a bit of piped rave and finally the beautiful strains of the gospel song “I’ll fly away” – a refrain that I like to sing around the camp fire with friends. I expect this was all meant to segue seamlessly together but this was sadly not the case, and it says something that it’s the music that I am talking about first and not the clothes – overall it was an unsatisfactory and entirely unnecessary distraction.

Prophetik by Etiene Del Monte
Prophetik by Etiene Del Monte

The clothes? Well, I met the PR who invited me in the queue for a show on Saturday, and was introduced to the American designer Jeff Garner, (Aiee!! He’s a published poet and all! Quite a good one if the ditty he penned to accompany the show is anything to go by) and I’ve since read a bit more about Prophetik on their website, discovering that there is a touching ecological and communitarian philosophy behind the brand. So I will be considered in what I say…

I loved the way the show opened (music aside), with a girl whisking between the musicians in a black dress like a fair maiden in mourning rushing away from her castle on high. From then on jodphurs and military themed tailored pieces jostled alongside bulbous bell-shaped crinoline fairytale princess dresses (my favourite outfits) next to ill advised crushed velvet sweeping gowns – all worn by fair skinned ladies with blonde or red hair. There were a few bits of menswear thrown in for good measure and I found myself idly wondering how I ever used to find male models attractive (so young, so… nothingy. I must be getting old) – instead I was more interested in looking at the wiggy men in the fancy paintings on the walls. When I checked my twitter feed in a moment of boredom (sorry nice PR lady, sorry Mr. Designer man) I noted that everyone seemed inadversely excited by the thigh high boots. Is that a good sign? I suppose I just felt that the whole thing was a bit of a mishmash – with some interesting pieces that didn’t ever seem to add up to a strong whole collection. And the music really really didn’t help matters. At all. Got that?

However, I think it’s admirable that Prophetik are taking ecological ideals into consideration, making the collection entirely from sustainable fabrics such as hemp, bamboo, organic cotton and recycled materials. I hope to read up more on their philosophy at a point where I am not madly dashing around fashion week. In the meantime, I wish them all the best and hope I a) don’t run into them again at the shows or b) they’re happy to take on board a bit of constructive criticism. Please don’t kill me! And aren’t the illustrations by Etiene del Monte wonderful?

Prophetik by Etiene Del Monte
Prophetik by Etiene Del Monte

We were shepherded into the one of the grand rooms at the Freemasons’ Hall by a blonde lady on a very high horse. In the atrium we were offered organic chocolates to nibble on (by Chocolala, more about they were AMAZING) and plastic cups of wine. All of this before lunchtime! So far so very extravagant.

A pretty curlicued silver sticker on my Prophetik flyer boded well, decease and I was duly ushered to the front row. Always nice to know you’re meant to be there, rather than trying to pull a fast one in the hope that no one will move you on. Whilst the show took forever to start, Matt and I dug around in the overflowing goodie bags, revealing a suit bag, an iphone amplifier dock, a sponsored notebook, organic toiletries and more chocolate, to name just a few items of ecojunk. Free frippery is to be expected at Fashion Week but I use the term ecojunk because of Prophetik’s “wearable philosophy” of promoting eco fashion. Of course any move towards sustainability is to be applauded, but then surely stick to recycled gifts? Or something more suited to said philosophy? Needless to say I took everything home anyway because that’s the way I’m programmed, but I couldn’t help feeling just a little bit guilty in doing so.

Eventually we heard the strains of a live violinist, who was soon joined by an acoustic guitarist, followed shortly after by an entire middle aged rock band, replete with bare chests and swinging medallions. Checking my show notes I’ve since discovered that this band included none other than members of Def Leppard and the Sex Pistols. Woah! Veering unexpectedly to a grinding holt, Massive Attack suddenly crashed onto the sound system. Then it was back to live rock, a bit of piped rave and finally the beautiful strains of the gospel song “I’ll fly away” – a refrain that I like to sing around the camp fire with friends. I expect this was all meant to segue seamlessly together but this was sadly not the case, and it says something that it’s the music that I am talking about first and not the clothes – overall it was an unsatisfactory and entirely unnecessary distraction.

Prophetik by Etiene Del Monte
Prophetik by Etiene Del Monte

The clothes? Well, I met the PR who invited me in the queue for a show on Saturday, and was introduced to the American designer Jeff Garner, (Aiee!! He’s a published poet and all! Quite a good one if the ditty he penned to accompany the show is anything to go by) and I’ve since read a bit more about Prophetik on their website, discovering that there is a touching ecological and communitarian philosophy behind the brand. So I will be considered in what I say…

I loved the way the show opened (music aside), with a girl whisking between the musicians in a black dress like a fair maiden in mourning rushing away from her castle on high. From then on jodphurs and military themed tailored pieces jostled alongside bulbous bell-shaped crinoline fairytale princess dresses (my favourite outfits) next to ill advised crushed velvet sweeping gowns – all worn by fair skinned ladies with blonde or red hair. There were a few bits of menswear thrown in for good measure and I found myself idly wondering how I ever used to find male models attractive (so young, so… nothingy. I must be getting old) – instead I was more interested in looking at the wiggy men in the fancy paintings on the walls. When I checked my twitter feed in a moment of boredom (sorry nice PR lady, sorry Mr. Designer man) I noted that everyone seemed inadversely excited by the thigh high boots. Is that a good sign? I suppose I just felt that the whole thing was a bit of a mishmash – with some interesting pieces that didn’t ever seem to add up to a strong whole collection. And the music really really didn’t help matters. At all. Got that?

However, I think it’s admirable that Prophetik are taking ecological ideals into consideration, making the collection entirely from sustainable fabrics such as hemp, bamboo, organic cotton and recycled materials. I very much hope to read up more on their philosophy at a point where I am not madly dashing around fashion week. In the meantime, I wish them all the best and hope I a) don’t run into them again at the shows or b) they’re happy to take on board a bit of constructive criticism. Please don’t kill me! And aren’t the illustrations by Etiene del Monte wonderful?

Prophetik by Etiene Del Monte
Prophetik by Etiene Del Monte

We were shepherded into the one of the grand rooms at the Freemasons’ Hall by a blonde lady on a very high horse. In the atrium we were offered organic chocolates to nibble on (by Chocolala, and they were AMAZING) and plastic cups of wine. All of this before lunchtime! So far so very extravagant.

A pretty curlicued silver sticker on my Prophetik flyer boded well, what is ed and I was duly ushered to the front row. Always nice to know you’re meant to be there, ambulance rather than trying to pull a fast one in the hope that no one will move you on. Whilst the show took forever to start, Matt and I dug around in the overflowing goodie bags, revealing a suit bag, an iphone amplifier dock, a sponsored notebook, organic toiletries and more chocolate, to name just a few items of ecojunk. Free frippery is to be expected at Fashion Week but I use the term ecojunk because of Prophetik’s “wearable philosophy” of promoting eco fashion. Of course any move towards sustainability is to be applauded, but then surely stick to recycled gifts? Or something more suited to said philosophy? Needless to say I took everything home anyway because that’s the way I’m programmed, but I couldn’t help feeling just a little bit guilty in doing so.

Eventually we heard the strains of a live violinist, who was soon joined by an acoustic guitarist, followed shortly after by an entire middle aged rock band, replete with bare chests and swinging medallions. Checking my show notes I’ve since discovered that this band included none other than members of Def Leppard and the Sex Pistols. Woah! Veering unexpectedly to a grinding holt, Massive Attack suddenly crashed onto the sound system. Then it was back to live rock, a bit of piped rave and finally the beautiful strains of the gospel song “I’ll fly away” – a refrain that I like to sing around the camp fire with friends. I expect this was all meant to segue seamlessly together but this was sadly not the case, and it says something that it’s the music that I am talking about first and not the clothes – overall it was an unsatisfactory and entirely unnecessary distraction.

Prophetik by Etiene Del Monte
Prophetik by Etiene Del Monte

The clothes? Well, I met the PR who invited me in the queue for a show on Saturday, and was introduced to the American designer Jeff Garner, (Aiee!! He’s a published poet and all! Quite a good one if the ditty he penned to accompany the show is anything to go by) and I’ve since read a bit more about Prophetik on their website, discovering that there is a touching ecological and communitarian philosophy behind the brand. So I will be considered in what I say…

I loved the way the show opened (music aside), with a girl whisking between the musicians in a black dress like a fair maiden in mourning rushing away from her castle on high. From then on jodphurs and military themed tailored pieces jostled alongside bulbous bell-shaped crinoline fairytale princess dresses (my favourite outfits) next to ill advised crushed velvet sweeping gowns – all worn by fair skinned ladies with blonde or red hair. There were a few bits of menswear thrown in for good measure and I found myself idly wondering how I ever used to find male models attractive (so young, so… nothingy. I must be getting old) – instead I was more interested in looking at the wiggy men in the fancy paintings on the walls. When I checked my twitter feed in a moment of boredom (sorry nice PR lady, sorry Mr. Designer man) I noted that everyone seemed inadversely excited by the thigh high boots. Is that a good sign? I suppose I just felt that the whole thing was a bit of a mishmash – with some interesting pieces that didn’t ever seem to add up to a strong whole collection. And the music really really didn’t help matters. At all. Got that?

However, I think it’s admirable that Prophetik are taking ecological ideals into consideration, making the collection entirely from sustainable fabrics such as hemp, bamboo, organic cotton and recycled materials. I very much hope to read up more on their philosophy at a point where I am not madly dashing around fashion week. In the meantime, I wish them all the best and hope I a) don’t run into them again at the shows or b) they’re happy to take on board a bit of constructive criticism. Please don’t kill me! And aren’t the illustrations by Etiene del Monte wonderful?

Prophetik by Etiene Del Monte
Prophetik by Etiene Del Monte

We were shepherded into the one of the grand rooms at the Freemasons’ Hall by a blonde lady on a very high horse. In the atrium we were offered organic chocolates to nibble on (by Chocolala, tadalafil they were AMAZING) and plastic cups of wine. All of this before lunchtime! So far so very extravagant.

A pretty curlicued silver sticker on my Prophetik flyer boded well, viagra and I was duly ushered to the front row. Always nice to know you’re meant to be there, rather than trying to pull a fast one in the hope that no one will move you on. Whilst the show took forever to start, Matt and I dug around in the overflowing goodie bags, revealing a suit bag, an iphone amplifier dock, a sponsored notebook, organic toiletries and more chocolate, to name just a few items of ecojunk. Free frippery is to be expected at Fashion Week but I use the term ecojunk because of Prophetik’s “wearable philosophy” of promoting eco fashion. Of course any move towards sustainability is to be applauded, but then surely stick to recycled gifts? Or something more suited to said philosophy? Needless to say I took everything home anyway because that’s the way I’m programmed, but I couldn’t help feeling just a little bit guilty in doing so.

Eventually we heard the strains of a live violinist, who was soon joined by an acoustic guitarist, followed shortly after by an entire middle aged rock band, replete with bare chests and swinging medallions. Checking my show notes I’ve since discovered that this band included none other than members of Def Leppard and the Sex Pistols. Woah! Veering unexpectedly to a grinding holt, Massive Attack suddenly crashed onto the sound system. Then it was back to live rock, a bit of piped rave and finally the beautiful strains of the gospel song “I’ll fly away” – a refrain that I like to sing around the camp fire with friends. I expect this was all meant to segue seamlessly together but this was sadly not the case, and it says something that it’s the music that I am talking about first and not the clothes – overall it was an unsatisfactory and entirely unnecessary distraction.

Prophetik by Etiene Del Monte
Prophetik by Etiene Del Monte

The clothes? Well, I met the PR who invited me in the queue for a show on Saturday, and was introduced to the American designer Jeff Garner, (Aiee!! He’s a published poet and all! Quite a good one if the ditty he penned to accompany the show is anything to go by) and I’ve since read a bit more about Prophetik on their website, discovering that there is a touching ecological and communitarian philosophy behind the brand. So I will be considered in what I say…

I loved the way the show opened (music aside), with a girl whisking between the musicians in a black dress like a fair maiden in mourning rushing away from her castle on high. From then on jodphurs and military themed tailored pieces jostled alongside bulbous bell-shaped crinoline fairytale princess dresses (my favourite outfits) next to ill advised crushed velvet sweeping gowns – all worn by fair skinned ladies with blonde or red hair. There were a few bits of menswear thrown in for good measure and I found myself idly wondering how I ever used to find male models attractive (so young, so… nothingy. I must be getting old) – instead I was more interested in looking at the wiggy men in the fancy paintings on the walls. When I checked my twitter feed in a moment of boredom (sorry nice PR lady, sorry Mr. Designer man) I noted that everyone seemed inadversely excited by the thigh high boots. Is that a good sign? I suppose I just felt that the whole thing was a bit of a mishmash – with some interesting pieces that didn’t ever seem to add up to a strong whole collection. And the music really really didn’t help matters. At all. Got that?

However, I think it’s admirable that Prophetik are taking ecological ideals into consideration, making the collection entirely from sustainable fabrics such as hemp, bamboo, organic cotton and recycled materials. I very much hope to read up more on their philosophy at a point where I am not madly dashing around fashion week. In the meantime, I wish them all the best and hope I a) don’t run into them again at the shows or b) they’re happy to take on board a bit of constructive criticism. Please don’t kill me! And aren’t the illustrations by Etiene del Monte wonderful?

Ramon Gurillo by Katie Harnett
Ramon Gurillo by Katie Harnett

In this blog I’m going to kill two fashionable birds with one stone. Mainly because they were designers I’ve never heard of before and also because I didn’t go too crazy for them.

Over in Victoria House I bumped into ex intern Sarah Barnes at Ramon Gurillo: turns out that she’s interning now with Fashion156 (who you will remember that I met in the front row over at Charlie Le Mindu), here small world that it is. Apparently they’ve got money from the Fashion Council over yonder so it’s all straight reportage, page as quick as possible. NOT SO HERE FOLKS. You’ll hear my views exactly as they are, undiluted – some of the time – even by good common sense. And complete with rambling interludes aplenty. That’s just how we roll I’m afraid. Ain’t no one giving us money.

Ramon Gurillo by Katie Harnett
Ramon Gurillo by Katie Harnett

Ramon was all about the yarn and I found myself wondering (not for the first time it has to be said) if, finally, knitwear has come of age. Maybe I should resurrect my knitwear business after all. Yes, I designed a range of 80s influenced handknits made from mohair and vegetable dyed British rare sheep wool at about the same time as I launched Amelia’s Magazine, fact fans. It was called avb (a nickname from my parents). But I just couldn’t do both. Madness it was. In fact big bags of unused wool are at this very moment languishing in my parent’s attic, no doubt being decimated by moths as we speak.

Ramon had some very sexy metallic glittery lips but I’m afraid the same glamourous intent had not been applied to his collection – which was far too tasteful for me. I did very much like the bold concertina (metallic, again) necklaces. Sorry, back to the knitwear. There were lots of lacy knit tights and leggings (possibly belonging to the stylist) which I quite liked, although I have to say that at the rate I put holes in my own leggings choosing to buy ones with pre-made holes would seem foolhardy at best. The best piece was a wonderful holey sweater dress, and I liked all the dangly bulbous bits and ruched details that appeared on other items.

Ramon Gurillo by Katie Harnett
Ramon Gurillo by Katie Harnett

After the show Sarah and I went to the tiny press room in the On/Off building, where I proceeded to stylishly tip nuts all over the bottom of my bag and then all over the blow-up sofa whilst Sarah attempted to upload a hasty blog. When she failed to make an internet connection we headed off to the Bodyamr show over at the gorgeous Freemasons’ Hall. We were herded into yet another staggeringly beautiful hall – featuring heavily ornate ceilings and shuttered wooden divisions between two antechambers. I sat tapping my feet and wondering how likely it was that I would make it to the next show (Bora Aksu), as rumours began to circulate on twitter that Nicola Roberts of Girls Aloud was in the front row. Well, not where I was she weren’t, but she could have been the other side of the division. Dammit. I do find it ever so amusing that Nicola, once the most pitied and derided member of the band, is now the coolest fashionista of the lot. Oh how those tangerine days of yore must haunt her now!

Bodyamr by Saroj Patel
Bodyamr by Saroj Patel

In the end I decided to lurk at the back so I could make a hasty exit, and only got to see the first few looks of the Bodyamr collection. Usually enough to make a thorough and precise analysis of a show I find. The show was opened by a model of staggering non-beauty and I registered with amusement a few confused smirks in the front row opposite me. A very odd choice indeed. It was then straight into “sports luxe” of the type we’ve seen many times before. Looking back at the catwalk pictures of the outfits I missed my favourites were definitely the ruche print dresses. But then you can always win me over with a bit of splashy coloured print.

Fortunately I managed to make it over to Bora Aksu in time….

Categories ,80s, ,avb, ,Bodyamr, ,Bora Aksu, ,Charlie le Mindu, ,Fashion blog, ,Fashion156, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,girls aloud, ,knitwear, ,lfw, ,metallics, ,Nicola Roberts, ,onoff, ,Ramon Gurillo, ,Sports Luxe, ,Victoria House

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Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland S/S 2012 in Łódź: Monika Ptaszek

Monika-Ptaszek-Polish-Fashion-Week-by-Antonia-Parker
Monika Ptaszek S/S 2012 by Antonia Parker.

One of my very favourite collections at Fashion Week Poland this time around came courtesy of Monika Ptaszek, who showed a menswear collection that mashed together a variety of eclectic styles to great effect. Think teddyboy meets punk meets rave meets grunge: the final effect was the epitome of Polish style when it’s done right.

Monika Ptaszek Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Monika Ptaszek Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Monika Ptaszek Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Monika Ptaszek S/S 2012. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Models came with serious attitude, sporting impressive quiffs and pouting with great intent at the end of the catwalk. Androgynous elements such as lace swing tops, swirly sheer leggings and bespoke brocade shoes sat together easily with manly studded details on sleeves and cropped tartan jackets. Colourful floral prints and patchwork hoods were accessorised with chunky woven scarves. I spoke with Monika Ptaszek afterwards at her stand, and was intrigued to discover that her last collection was entirely black. For S/S 2012 she cites the metropolitan man who roams Paris as her ideal customer, and I can well imagine him wearing Ptaszek for Men. Loved it.

Monika Ptaszek Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Monika Ptaszek Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Monika Ptaszek Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Monika Ptaszek Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Monika Ptaszek Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Monika Ptaszek Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Monika Ptaszek Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Monika Ptaszek Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Monika Ptaszek Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Monika Ptaszek Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Monika Ptaszek Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Monika Ptaszek Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Monika Ptaszek Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Monika Ptaszek Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Monika Ptaszek Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Monika Ptaszek Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Monika Ptaszek Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Monika Ptaszek Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Monika Ptaszek Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Monika Ptaszek Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Monika Ptaszek Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Monika Ptaszek Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Monika Ptaszek Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Monika Ptaszek Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Monika Ptaszek Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory

And not forgetting the fabulous brocade shoes:

Monika Ptaszek Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Monika Ptaszek Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Monika Ptaszek Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory
Monika Ptaszek Fashion Week Poland SS 2012-photo by Amelia Gregory

Categories ,80s, ,Antonia Parker, ,Brocade, ,Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland, ,gay, ,grunge, ,Lodz, ,menswear, ,Metropolitan, ,Monika Ptaszek, ,paris, ,Patchwork, ,Ptaszek for Men, ,punk, ,rave, ,Teddyboy

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Amelia’s Magazine | Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland S/S 2012 in Łódź: Street Style

Fashion Week Poland people SS 2012-Street Style
It was harder to shoot Street Style at this Fashion Week Poland than at last, due in part to the cold weather which kept us huddling indoors but also because of the ever increasing bump that I now have to drag around with me everywhere. Both connived to prevent me from hunting down as many extravagant dressers. But here’s an idea of what Street Style Polish Style (and a bit of front row international fashion) looks like in late 2011.

Fashion Week Poland people SS 2012-Street Style
Fashion Week Poland people SS 2012-Street Style
Fashion Week Poland people SS 2012-Street Style
Fashion Week Poland people SS 2012-Street Style
Fashion Week Poland people SS 2012-Street Style
Fashion Week Poland people SS 2012-Street Style
Fashion Week Poland people SS 2012-Street Style
Fashion Week Poland people SS 2012-Street Style
Fashion Week Poland people SS 2012-Street Style
Fashion Week Poland people SS 2012-Street Style
Fashion Week Poland people SS 2012-Street Style
Fashion Week Poland people SS 2012-Street Style
Fashion Week Poland people SS 2012-Street Style
Fashion Week Poland people SS 2012-Street Style
Fashion Week Poland people SS 2012-Street Style
Fashion Week Poland people SS 2012-Street Style
Fashion Week Poland people SS 2012-Street Style
Fashion Week Poland people SS 2012-Street Style
Fashion Week Poland people SS 2012-Street Style
Fashion Week Poland people SS 2012-Street Style
Fashion Week Poland people SS 2012-Street Style
Fashion Week Poland people SS 2012-Street Style
Fashion Week Poland people SS 2012-Street Style
Fashion Week Poland people SS 2012-Street Style
Fashion Week Poland people SS 2012-Street Style
Fashion Week Poland people SS 2012-Street Style
Fashion Week Poland S/S 2012 Street Style. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,80s, ,Fashion Philosophy Fashion Week Poland, ,Jemima Daisy, ,Lodz, ,Malgosia Kralkowska, ,Marcellous, ,Phaedra, ,S/S 2012, ,Street Style, ,Systeme D

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Amelia’s Magazine | Inbar Spector: London Fashion Week A/W 2012 Catwalk Review

Inbar Spector AW 2012 by Mitika Chohan

Inbar Spector AW 2012 by Mitika Chohan

I first came across an Inbar Spector dress on a ‘wall’ created by Gabby Young and Katie Antoniou’s Gabberdashery for Supermarket Sarah. It was a voluminous, twisted, tulle dress in a gorgeous light ocean blue which instantly made an impression on me. Since then I have followed Inbar Spector’s work via her strong presence on Facebook, which has enabled me to have peaks into her studio, see pieces in progress, and get a glimpse of her sweet personality. I also had the pleasure of seeing one of her creations in real life worn by Gabby Young – a fan of Spector’s designs – during Gabby Young and Other Animals’ Koko gig last October.

Inbar Spector AW12 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Inbar Spector AW12 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

So I was quite excited to see Inbar Spector‘s A/W 2012 collection at Fashion Scout’s venue, Freemasons’ Hall. I was certain that I was going to have my dose of the extraordinary, which I very much craved after a couple of less than thrilling London Fashion Week experiences the night before. I was not disappointed: I felt a smile forming the moment the show began. The models, beautifully styled by Hope Von Joel, walked slowly towards the photographers’ pit accompanied by a great soundtrack mixed by Todd Hart.

Inbar Spector AW12 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Inbar Spector AW 2012 by Love Amelia

Inbar Spector AW 2012 by Love Amelia

Inbar Spector AW12 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Inbar Spector AW12 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

There was a lot of continuity from S/S 2012. Inbar Spector displayed again her amazing skills in constructing, twisting and knotting generous amounts of silks in soft pastels on metallic faux leather laser cut bodysuits and dresses. The slightly 80s disco metallic bodysuits seemed to me to match perfectly with Todd Hart’s mix, which featured heavily electric keyboard sounds from that decade.

Inbar Spector AW12 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Inbar Spector AW 2012 by Rosa and Carlotta Crepax Illustrated Moodboard

Inbar Spector AW 2012 by Rosa and Carlotta Crepax Illustrated Moodboard

Inbar Spector AW12 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

This 80s aura helped us escape for a few moments back to a time when we were younger – and maybe richer. The theme to Inbar Spector’s show was indeed Escapism. She quotes ‘fairytales, manga, dreams and circus clowns’ as some of her inspirations for this season. She also makes a connection between the perforated faux leather elements in her clothes – which allow a lot of skin to show through so that one does not know where the real body starts and ends – and people being ‘ruffled’, like some of her clothes, by having plastic surgery and so escaping from the reality of their bodies.

Inbar Spector AW12 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Inbar Spector AW12 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Inbar Spector AW12 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Inbar Spector AW 2012 Lara Jensen headpiece by Love Amelia

Inbar Spector AW 2012 Lara Jensen headpiece by Love Amelia

Inbar Spector AW12 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Inbar Spector AW12 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Escaping or changing one’s identity or hiding behind something were relevant themes to another star in the show: the elaborately jewelled headpieces by Lara Jensen which fell in front of the models’ faces like masks. They certainly reminded me of lavishly adorned princesses and maidens from tales of exotic places, but I could not help thinking they also had an element of S&M to them, which again created a link to escapism. I think I was aided in this thought by the constant recurrence in the soundtrack mix of the song ‘Obsession’ by the band Army of Lovers.

Inbar Spector AW12 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Inbar Spector AW12 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Inbar Spector AW 2012 by Novemto Komo

Inbar Spector AW 2012 by Novemto Komo

Inbar Spector AW12 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Inbar Spector AW12 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Inbar Spector AW 2012 by Reed Rainer

Inbar Spector AW 2012 by Reed Rainer

Again similarly to what she has done in previous shows, Inbar Spector presented her collection building an impressive crescendo by starting with less theatrical pieces, gradually sending out more and more voluminous garments, finishing off with two numbers which were so heart stopping and exciting the audience could not help but clap, cheer and whistle in keen approval. When in the end a tiny, adorable Inbar walked down the catwalk holding hands with the model who was wearing her gigantic closing number, she was drowned by it in physical terms, but her potential and creativity seemed just as gigantic – and then some.

Inbar Spector AW12 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Inbar Spector AW12 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Inbar Spector AW12 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

Inbar Spector AW12 photo by Maria Papadimitriou

All photography by Maria Papadimitriou

Categories ,80s, ,Army of Colours, ,Bodysuit, ,Bride, ,Circus, ,Constructivism, ,Crinolines, ,disco, ,Escapism, ,Exotic, ,fairytales, ,Faux Leather, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Gabberdashery, ,gabby young, ,Gabby Young and Other Animals, ,Headpiece, ,Hope Von Joel, ,Illustrated Moodboard, ,Inbar Spector, ,jewellery, ,Katie Antoniou, ,Kerry Jones, ,lace, ,Lara Jensen, ,Laser Cutting, ,London Fashion Week, ,Love Amelia, ,Manga, ,Maria Papadimitriou, ,Masks, ,Metalic, ,Mitika Chohan, ,Novemto Komo, ,Obsession, ,Pastel Colours, ,pastels, ,Perforated, ,Plastic Surgery, ,Reed Rainer, ,Rosa and Carlotta Crepax, ,Ruffles, ,S&M, ,Sadomasochism, ,Silks, ,Supermarket Sarah, ,Todd Hart, ,Vauxhall Fashion Scout

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Amelia’s Magazine | Central Saint Martins: Ba Fashion Graduate Show 2011 review. Womenswear tailoring.

Tracey Wong  CSM by Laura Frame
Tracey Wong by Laura Frame.

Womenswear tailoring at Central Saint Martins centred around a classical monochrome base exemplified by James Nolan, malady who opened the whole show with a high collared nanny wielding a giant old fashioned pram. Models with pin rolled hair were lent a strict air with shiny tight leather gloves.

Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-James Nolan photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-James Nolan photography by Amelia Gregory
James Nolan. All photography by Amelia Gregory

Mathilde le Gagneur showed a floaty commercial collection of tie-waisted garments to traditional church music. I liked the twirly number at the end.

Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Mathilde le Gagneur photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Mathilde le Gagneur photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Mathilde le Gagneur photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Mathilde le Gagneur photography by Amelia Gregory
Mathilde le Gagneur.

Li Wai Yin was all about the block coloured tailoring. Pointy hats and overlong sleeves emphasised the strong minimalist shapes.

Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Li Wai Yin photography by Amelia Gregory
Li Wai Yin.

Khrystyna Fomenko presented a strong and highly wearable collection based on golden and pastel shades with wide palazzo trousers and multi height hem lines. We did an interview with Khrystyna Fomenko back in 2009 – why not take a gander and see just how much her style has changed since then!

Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Khrystyna Fomenko photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Khrystyna Fomenko photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Khrystyna Fomenko photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Khrystyna Fomenko photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Khrystyna Fomenko photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Khrystyna Fomenko photography by Amelia Gregory
Khrystyna Fomenko.

Hannah Barr showed flouncy pleated and backless numbers in lacy blues and coppery knits.

Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Hannah Barr photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Hannah Barr photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Hannah Barr photography by Amelia Gregory
Hannah Barr.

Tracey Wong incorporated jutting beaded ornamental panels onto pastel and black dresses of intriguing proportions.

Tracey Wong by Laura Frame
Tracey Wong by Laura Frame.

Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Tracey Wong photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Tracey Wong photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Tracey Wong photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Tracey Wong photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Tracey Wong photography by Amelia Gregory
Tracey Wong.

Christopher Tai’s collection was a bizarre ensemble of loose fitting pieces and unflattering wired accessories that curled up the arm.

Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Christopher Tai photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Christopher Tai photography by Amelia Gregory
Christopher Tai.

Satoshi Kuwata did ruched and draped pastels with interesting hem lines and button detailing. A very strong collection.

Satoshi Kuwata by Casey Otremba
Satoshi Kuwata by Casey Otremba.

Central Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Satoshi Kuwata photography by Amelia GregoryCentral Saint Martins Ba Show 2011-Satoshi Kuwata photography by Amelia Gregory
Satoshi Kuwata. All photography by Amelia Gregory

Categories ,Casey Otremba, ,Central Saint Martins, ,Christopher Tai, ,Graduate Fashion Week, ,Hannah Barr, ,James Nolan, ,Khrystyna Fomenko, ,Laura Frame, ,Li Wai Yin, ,Mathilde le Gagneur, ,Satoshi Kuwata, ,tailoring, ,Tracey Wong, ,Womenswear, ,York Hall

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