Amelia’s Magazine | Yeashin: London Fashion Week S/S 2014 Catwalk Review

Yeashin S/S 2014 by Slowly The Eggs
Yeashin S/S 2014 by Slowly The Eggs.

Last season Yeashin‘s Woodland collection trod a narrow line between dressing up and playing dress up (kid style) so I was intrigued to see how this Korean label would progress with a stand alone show.

Yeashin S:S 2014 by Lynne Datson
Yeashin S/S 2014 by Lynne Datson.

Yeashin SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Yeashin SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Yeashin SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Yeashin SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Yeashin SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Yeashin S/S 2014. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Yeashin S:S 2014 by Gaarte
Yeashin S/S 2014 by Gaarte.

The extravagant layering of texture and colour that worked so well in the winter collection were translated with less success into a more summery vibe: plenty of frills, pearls and embroidery splashed across loose little girl bib dresses and used to vamp up cute girly blouses (the best garments in this show), all worn by models with long shimmery limbs. Pleats, bobbly spots and scattered leaves were echoes of last season too, this time accessorised with pie crust paper hats and simple nude coloured heels.

Yeashin S/S 2014 by Claire Kearns
Yeashin S/S 2014 by Claire Kearns.

Yeashin SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Yeashin SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Yeashin SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Yeashin SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Yeashin SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
This was a resolutely whimsical collection that erred a little too much towards the saccharine for my taste. I look forward to seeing how Yeashin develops as the seasons go forward.

Categories ,Claire Kearns, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Gaarte, ,Lynne Datson, ,S/S 2014, ,Slowly the Eggs, ,Summer Afternoon Party, ,woodland, ,Yeashin

Similar Posts:






Amelia’s Magazine | Yulia Kondranina: Fashion Scout Ones to Watch A/W 2013 Catwalk Review

Yulia Kondranina A/W 2013 by youdesignme
Yulia Kondranina A/W 2013 by youdesignme.

Russian designer and Central Saint Martins graduate Yulia Kondranina was last to show at Ones to Watch, with a small collection of immaculate construction: models stepped out on the catwalk in heavily tasselled dresses, the threads swaying gracefully around legs and arms as they walked. Black threads on black created an elegant gothic feel, whilst white on black was a very on trend nod to the monochrome colour palette which has been omnipresent this season.

Yulia Kondranina A/W 2013 by Laura Hickman
Yulia Kondranina A/W 2013 by Laura Hickman.

ones to watch yulia kondranina AW 2013-photo by amelia gregory
ones to watch yulia kondranina AW 2013-photo by amelia gregory
ones to watch yulia kondranina AW 2013-photo by amelia gregory
Yulia Kondranina A/W 2013 by Laura Hickman
Yulia Kondranina A/W 2013 by Laura Hickman.

My favourites were undoubtably the three colourful dresses with which Yulia Kondranina ended her show, jewel coloured and swinging flatteringly around hips over the top of tube skirts. I was able to check out the dresses up close at the Fashion Scout exhibition, where I discovered that the delicate threads were given substance with clever internal hoops. I’m not sure how easy they would be to wear, but the collection was beautifully conceived.

ones to watch yulia kondranina AW 2013-photo by amelia gregory
ones to watch yulia kondranina AW 2013-photo by amelia gregory
Yulia Kondranina A/W 2013. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,A/W 2013, ,Central Saint Martins, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Laura Hickman, ,Ones To Watch, ,review, ,Russian, ,youdesignme

Similar Posts:






Amelia’s Magazine | Zeynep Kartal: London Fashion Week A/W 2014 Catwalk Review

Zeynep Kartel A/W 2014 by Melissa Angelik

Zeynep Kartel A/W 2014 by Melissa Angelik.

I was witness to the run through for Zeynep Kartal when I took a wrong turning at Freemasons’ Hall and ended up in the wrong venue… easy to do when the route to the shows are changed each season. This meant I already had a clear idea of the kind of thing to expect from this Turkish designer well before I sat down for the main event.

Zeynep Kartal AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Zeynep Kartal AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Zeynep Kartal AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Zeynep Kartal AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Zeynep Kartal AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Zeynep Kartal AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Zeynep Kartal AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Zeynep Kartal AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Zeynap Kartal A/W 2014 by Isher Dhiman

Zeynap Kartal A/W 2014 by Isher Dhiman.

The Manchester based designer boasts more than twenty years of experience in the fashion business, and for her first turn on the London Fashion Week catwalk she delivered pretty embellished evening wear fabricated from sheer and glitzy fabrics in an eye-pleasing colour palette of deep blue, blood red, gold and cream. Pattern details on this elegant and feminine collection were inspired by a combination of the Gothic revival architecture of Manchester’s Town Hall and Hollywood high glamour. The show ended with a fabulous 40s inspired wedding dress from her bridal range, but my favourite pieces (and the most fashion forward of the show) were those that featured a delicate all over sequinned zebra pattern. You can never have enough animal patterns in your life, you know.

Zeynep Kartal AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Zeynep Kartal AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Zeynep Kartal AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Zeynep Kartal AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Zeynep Kartal AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Zeynep Kartal AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Zeynep Kartal AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Zeynep Kartal AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Zeynep Kartal AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Zeynep Kartal AW 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,A/W 2014, ,catwalk, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Hollywood, ,Isher Dhiman, ,London Fashion Week, ,Melissa Angelik, ,review, ,Town Hall, ,Turkish, ,Zeynep Kartal

Similar Posts:






Amelia’s Magazine | Zeynep Kartal: London Fashion Week S/S 2015 Catwalk Review

Zeynep Kartal by Sine Skau
Zeynep Kartal by Sine Skau.

Turkish born Zeynep Kartal is one of the new influx of foreign born designers who are bringing a little red carpet glamour to the Fashion Scout catwalks. Her SS15 catwalk show opened with zingy lemon yellow floor sweeping gowns – backless, strapless, sheer, asymmetric glamour offset with barely there make up and simple locks worn cascading down the back. Zeynep Kartal’s Efflorescence collection featured plenty of floaty dresses covered in subtle rose pink and white florals inspired by the classic novel The Secret Garden, and for those preferring a darker palette there were boxy dove grey satin tops embellished with beaded starbursts and pleated georgette dresses with plunging necklines and cinched-in waists. A glorious rose encrusted A-line dress made for a playful finale from the Manchester based designer.

Scroll down to watch a video of the collection.

Zeynep Kartal Spring Summer 2015, Illustration by Rosa Crepax and Carlotta Crepax, Illustrated Moodboard for Amelia's Magazine
Zeynep Kartal SS15 by Rosa Crepax and Carlotta Crepax of Illustrated Moodboard.

Zeynep Kartal SS 2015-photo by Amelia Gregory
Zeynep Kartal SS 2015-photo by Amelia Gregory
Zeynep Kartal SS 2015-photo by Amelia Gregory
Zeynep Kartal SS 2015-photo by Amelia Gregory
Zeynep Kartal SS 2015-photo by Amelia Gregory
Zeynep Kartal SS 2015-photo by Amelia Gregory
Zeynep Kartal SS 2015-photo by Amelia Gregory
Zeynep Kartal SS 2015-photo by Amelia Gregory
Zeynep Kartal SS 2015-photo by Amelia Gregory
Zeynep Kartal SS 2015-photo by Amelia Gregory
Zeynep Kartal SS 2015-photo by Amelia Gregory
All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,Catwalk review, ,Efflorescence, ,Evening Wear, ,Fashion Scout, ,floral, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Glamour, ,Illustrated Moodboard, ,London Fashion Week, ,manchester, ,Red carpet, ,Rosa Crepax and Carlotta Crepax, ,S/S 2015, ,Sine Skau, ,SS15, ,The Secret Garden, ,Turkish, ,Zeynep Kartal

Similar Posts:






Amelia’s Magazine | Zeynep Tosun: London Fashion Week S/S 2014 Preview Interview

Zeynep Tosun S/S 2014 preview by Laura Hickman
Zeynep Tosun S/S 2014 preview by Laura Hickman.

Last season I was blown away by the discovery of Zeynep Tosun, an ambitious Turkish designer with a penchant for beautiful embellishment. This season Zeynep Tosun takes inspiration from the androgyny and sexual freedom of the 1920s for her Hidden collection. Yesterday I caught up with her in the studio to get a sneak peak of what to expect – beautifully illustrated by Laura Hickman.

Zeynep Tosun S/S 2014 preview by Laura Hickman
Zeynep Tosun S/S 2014 preview by Laura Hickman.

I loved your show last season, how did you construct such elaborate pieces, and who does all the handiwork such as embroidery for you?
I have my own atelier in Istanbul which allows me to experiment with intricate and innovative haute couture techniques. All my embroidery is done in-house.

You have had your own brand since 2008, what has been the journey so far?
It’s been a rollercoaster ride…

What did you learn working with the likes of Alberta Ferretti and Dice Kayak?
Working at Ferretti was my first experience after graduating from Istituto di Maragoni in Milan, so it shaped my character and allowed me to hone my skills to haute couture.

This season you’ve been inspired by the 1920s – how have you translated this time period into a modern collection?
The collection denotes concealed sexuality and merges androgynous shapes with allusive femininity.

What kind of materials have you worked with for the new collection?
Luxe stone-washed silk and silk chiffon, S/S 2014 plays on transparency in a muted palette of white, smoke, navy and candy pink.

How easy was it to set up a flagship store in Istanbul and who are your customers?
My success in Istanbul led to the opening of my flagship store in Akmerkez, and the demand from my private clients mean it has grown every season. My next goal is to open stores in London and New York.

What is it like to work in Turkey in the fashion industry: what are the perks and the challenges?
I am well established as a designer in Turkey so I have much support. London is the platform to build the label internationally.

Zeynep Tosun shows on the catwalk at Freemasons’ Hall with Fashion Scout on Saturday 14th September.

Categories ,Akmerkez, ,Alberta Ferretti, ,Dice Kayak, ,Fashion Scout, ,Ferretti, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Hidden, ,interview, ,Istanbul, ,Istituto di Maragoni, ,Laura Hickman, ,preview, ,S/S 2014, ,Zeynep Tosun

Similar Posts:






Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Presentation Review: Kingston MA

Kingston-MA-by-Alia-Gargum
Stephanie Nieuwenhuyse by Alia Gargum

Located in Kingston upon Thames, buy South West London, more about Kingston University London doesn’t seem to have a buzzing reputation for academia. But with art the institution are widely regarded as one of the best in the country, particularly for fashion education. Kingston fashion graduates have gone on to senior posts in a range of leading labels which include Armani, Burberry, Calvin Klein, Vivienne Westwood and Yves Saint Laurent. And it goes without saying that the Fashion Scout presentation at London Fashion Week is a thoroughly unique opportunity to showcase work to the industry’s elite at such an early stage in a designer’s career.

Kingston Fashion Textiles MA SS 2011 review-002

Kingston Fashion Textiles MA SS 2011 review-004

The university has been presenting the best of it’s MA Fashion graduates at Vauxhall Fashion Scout for two years now, and the theme has remained the same – The Body Laboratory. This time, there was an array of interpretations of the theme from full-on brain-like, mouldy textiles (yes, really) to delicate references through elegant style details. My favourites of the presentation were Stefanie Nieuwenhuyse, Fay Gascoigne, Ninela Ivanova and Han Gu.

Stefanie Nieuwenhuyse Kingston MA LFW S/S 2012 by Kirstie Battson
Stefanie Nieuwenhuyse by Kirstie Battson

I saw perhaps the most bustle around Stefanie Nieuwenhuyse, who had a corset and shoe displayed as part of a collection inspired by Biomimicry. The pieces were created from an intricate shell of thin wood that was broken into tiny hexagonal shapes then arranged in the most impressive and fiddly way; it must have taken yonks to put together. Her business cards were also made out of the thin wood she had used in her collection pieces – a great touch!

Fay Gascoigne
Photography courtesy of Fay Gascoigne.

I asked Fay Gascoigne about her pieces and she spoke with such passion and expression that I couldn’t help but admire her work! She displayed a funky, sporty jacket, formed with purple digital printed fabric, gathered in sections to make a volumnous shape. She also had everyone in the room sniffing her giant white plastic necklace that smelt like lavender.

Kingston Fashion Textiles MA SS 2011 review-014

Kingston Fashion Textiles MA SS 2011 review-012

Ninela Ivanova created a somewhat controversial collection that was displayed in the center of the room in all its glory. The collection, titled Moulded Mind was largely made up of lazer-cut velvet encased in silicone (which created a wonderful veiny/brainy effect). These pieces were named Second Skin. What was even more bizarre was the thick mould that were contained in transparent vests and shoulder pads. This was much more of a textile venture than a fashion one but I was intrigued by the concept, as was everyone else in the room as they touched and stared at the pieces and badgered Ninela with questions.

Han Gu Kingston MA S/S 2012 by Aysim Genc
Han Gu by Aysim Genc

Han Gu‘s work stood out beautifully. It was just a shame that there wasn’t more of her collection on display for the presentation. She’d created pieces that were much more wearable but that still showed fantastic textile skill in minute triangular features that seemed to hark back to Japanese origami. It turns out that the collection, titled Triangular Memories, was inspired by memories of her grandma who liked to fold the smallest notes to make little triangles. My favourite feature was the collar, made from tiny transparent plastic triangles; a simple but beautifully constructed piece.

Kingston Fashion Textiles MA SS 2011 review-007q=
All photography by Amelia Gregory.

The Kingston MA Fashion presentation at Vauxhall Fashion Scout continues to show off the university’s ability to stretch their students’ capabilities, give them the creative freedom to push new boundaries and inject something new into the fashion world.

Categories ,Alia Gargum, ,Amelia Gregory, ,Armani, ,Aysim Genc, ,Biomimicry, ,Body Laboratory, ,Burberry, ,Calvin Klein, ,Fay Gascoigne, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Georgia Takacs, ,Han Gu, ,Kingston, ,Kingston MA Fashion, ,Kingston University, ,Kingston University London, ,Kingston upon Thames, ,lfw, ,LFW S/S 2012, ,London Fashion Week, ,London Fashion Week S/S 2012, ,Mould, ,Moulded Mind, ,Ninela Ivanova, ,origami, ,Second Skin, ,Silicone, ,Stefanie Nieuwenhuyse, ,The Body Laboratory, ,Triangular Memories, ,Vauxhall Fashion Scout, ,Velvet, ,Vivienne Westwood, ,YSL, ,Yves Saint Laurent

Similar Posts:






Amelia’s Magazine | Prophetik: London Fashion Week A/W 2012 Catwalk Review


Prophetik A/W 2012 by Faye West

My fashion week hadn’t got off to the best of starts this season. I skipped day one, and arrived on day two rather worse for wear. I’d been out boozing the night before and hadn’t predicted to feel quite so dreadful the next morning. I managed the Spijkers show, but on my way to see my faces, Teatum Jones, I was spinning out so badly that I just had to return home. Spending the day on the sofa sorted me out, and so I leapt out of bed on a bright, Spring-like morning on Sunday (day three) to catch Prophetik, back after a hiatus last season, to see what Jeff Gardner could offer fashion fans at 10.30am.


Prophetik A/W 2012 by Claire Kearns

Seating was easy peasy thanks to the glorious gals at Forward PR, and the show began only a few minutes late. This season, Jeff’s charity of choice is the Lawrence Anthony Foundation, committed to protecting endangered rhinos. Well, I certainly didn’t expect to see photographs of rhinos mutilated at such an early hour, but the provocative images hit home the crisis the species face. It costs £30,000 to protect one rhino for a year – a terrifying amount of money – because the only way to keep them alive is by guarding them 24 hours a day. You can read more about the cause here.


All photography by Matt Bramford

So it was on with the show. True to form, a vibrant violinist opened the proceedings, galavanting up and down the catwalk as she played. A live band then accompanied music that blasted from the sound system and the first model appeared.

This collection was called ‘Courtly Love‘, which for a brief moment made me imagine Prophetik‘s staple frocks with Courtney Love-esque make-up. Alas, this wasn’t the case. The theme was more of a reference to Princess Grace, archetypal dandies and an age-old way of dressing reinvented with a surge of modernity. The collection brought Prophetik‘s inimitable style back to the catwalk – romance, drama and sophistication neatly packaged into one collection.


Prophetik A/W 2012 by Gilly Rochester

Layers of lace were built up on dresses, blouson sleeves met with tight cuffs, swooping necklines were decorated with ruffled trims and sashes around waists provided flattering silhouettes.

This season saw a shorter hemline on some pieces that came as a bit of a surprise; I’m used to Jeff’s floor-sweeping numbers but cuter frocks cut above the knee made the collection seem more wearable and playful.

Menswear was exemplary as per: this season brought cropped tuxedos with jazzy gold buttons and baggy knits; pillow-shaped sleeves appeared on shirts. I spent more time than was necessary fancying two frock coats, the first with beautiful embroidery that looked like a V&A exhibit, the second made from luxurious velvet with heavy brocade detailing.

I don’t see myself hanging around Bethnal Green in either, but I’ve since fantasised about wearing the latter around the house, pretending I’m from another era.


Prophetik A/W 2012 by Gabriel Ayala

The finale created gasps across the room: a dress, black on bottom, white on top, featured one of Jeff’s grandmother’s original blankets (he must be running out) covered in black feathers – a real red carpet number if ever I saw one; one that will likely have Livia Firth on the phone faster than you can say green carpet. Gasps of another kind came when Whitney Houston’s ‘I Wanna Dance With Somebody’ emerged from the speakers – an unorthadox choice at a Prophetik show, but one that had guests bouncing up and down in their seats.


Finale at Prophetik A/W 2012 by Faye West

While Prophetik isn’t my favourite type of fashion – I prefer the more contemporary, print-based designers – I’m never disappointed, as I’m sure the hopeless romantics won’t be either.

Categories ,A/W 2012, ,AW12, ,catwalk, ,Claire Kearns, ,Courtly Love, ,Dandy, ,fashion, ,Faye West, ,Forward PR, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Gabriel Ayala, ,Gilly Rochester, ,Jeff Garner, ,Lawrence, ,London Fashion Week, ,Matt Bramford, ,menswear, ,Prophetik, ,review, ,Vauxhall Fashion Scout, ,Whitney Houston, ,Womenswear

Similar Posts:






Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Showroom Review: EcoLuxe London

'Ecolooks' EcoLuxe London Exhibition LFW SS12 by Maria Papadimitriou aka Slowly The Eggs

‘Ecolooks’ by Maria Papadimitriou aka Slowly The Eggs

I was hugely excited that during this London Fashion Week I had the opportunity not only to go and see but also exhibit at the EcoLuxe London exhibition that took place in a beautiful space on the ground floor of the Kingsway Hall Hotel almost next to the Vauxhall Fashion Scout’s Freemasons’ Hall. Ecoluxe London takes place twice a year during London Fashion Week and is a non-profit platform that promotes fashion related ecoluxury brands and aims to raise awareness of ecological issues with the public. Its organisers, information pills Stamo and Elena Garcia, who are sustainable womenswear designers themselves, featured over 40 brands this year and EcoLuxe London is growing every year – here’s only a few examples that took my fancy!

EcoLuxe London LFW SS12 Lucy Harvey Ethical Stylist

EcoLuxe London LFW SS12 Ethical Stylist Lucy Harvey and Hetty Rose

Ethical stylist Lucy Harvey styling shoe designer Hetty Rose with a Plastic Seconds headpiece and necklace.

Upon entering the exhibition visitors were greeted by superbly talented stylist Lucy Harvey and her assistant Charlie Divall, who offered to upstyle them with various pieces from the exhibitors’ tables and then photograph them and tweet about it. I thought in this way Lucy offered a really fun, interactive introduction to the exhibition and a great way of promoting both the designers’ and the visitors’ work.

EcoLuxe London LFW SS12 Lupe Castro wearing Supported by Rain and Plastic Seconds

Stylist Lupe Castro styled by Lucy Harvey with a Supported by Rain coat and a Plastic Seconds headpiece, photo by Charlie Divall

Walking further into the exhibition the first thing to catch my eye was a series of gloriously colourful raincoats by Maria Ampatielou’s new brand Supported by Rain – seen above. Made of recycled umbrellas and end-of-roll waterproof fabrics, these raincoats are not only beautiful but also cleverly fold into their own pockets or hoods, whose insides have remained dry, so that you can put them back into your bag without any soaked diary dramas!

STAMO EcoLuxe London LFW SS12 by Celine Elliott

By Stamo S/S 2012 by Celine Elliott

EcoLuxe London LFW SS12 STAMO belt

By Stamo, which featured in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration, is another brand I enjoyed especially because of the theatricality in the designs and the extensive use of found and recycled materials whose original form is often retained – as seen in this bullet belt.

INALA LONDON EcoLuxe London LFW SS12 by Caire Kearns

INALA London S/S 2012 by Claire Kearns

My neighbour exhibitor Alani Gibbon of INALA London showed some designs which were a natural hit with me becuase of their bright colours, but they further impressed me with their cleverness and versatility. For example a hooded short dress could be turned around and worn as an all-in-one playsuit! Not to mention the use of pulped eucalyptus fabric which felt amazing to touch.

OUTSIDER Ecoluxe London LFW SS12 by Maria Papadimitriou aka Slowly The Eggs

Outsider Fashion S/S 2012 by Maria Papadimitriou aka Slowly The Eggs

I was thrilled to see the brand Outsider winning the JP Selects womenwear award at the end of the show as they stongly promote the notion that ‘ethical’ fashion should just look like very good fashion with their range of classic but very stylish designs.

HEMYCA EcoLuxe London LFW SS12 by Celine Elliott

Hemyca S/S 2012 by Celine Elliott

Hemyca is a multi award winning brand and I was most attracted by this beautifully tailored matching dress and coat.

LFW SS2012 Agnes Valentine Ecoluxe London by Maria Papadimitriou aka Slowly The Eggs

Agnes Valentine S/S 2012 by Maria Papadimitriou aka Slowly The Eggs

Along with Hemyca above, whom I was not aware of, it was great to discover my dream swimsuit designer Agnes Valentine! The brand sources fine italian eco fabrics and their designs are minimal and classic but with bold colours and very feminine indeed.

EcoLuxe London LFW SS12 Hetty Rose shoes

EcoLuxe London LFW SS12 Hetty Rose shoes worn by Alice Wilby

It was an honour to meet another ACOFI designer Hetty Rose whose fun bespoke shoes are made using vintage Japanese kimono fabrics, Alice Wilby from Futurefrock modelled this pair and did not want to take them off!

EcoLuxe London LFW SS12 Golden Grass Company clutch

Next to Hetty Rose I found the friendly couple behind the Golden Grass Company who design jewellery and accessories for native artisans in Brazil to make out of a naturally golden, light and durable fibre, which is grown without chemicals or pesticides, under fair trade standards – LOVED this clutch!

EcoLuxe London LFW SS12 Monique Luttin headpiece

Sharing a table with me was Monique Luttin who makes intriguing headpieces using offcuts or vintage fabrics and found objects – I particularly liked this bird scull one which has a tribal, ritualistic element to it.

EcoLuxe London LFW SS12 Palstic Seconds printer packaging pendand

And finally a piece from the Plastic Seconds recycled jewellery collection I exhibited made out of the plastic, colourful bits one finds when unpacking a new printer…

As Hannah Bullivant pointed out in a previous post on EcoLuxe London, hopefully sustainable practices in fashion design will become mainstream and the brands that are still termed ‘ethical’ will no longer have to exhibit in separate showrooms and sections such as EcoLuxe or Estethica. Hopefully soon.

All photography by Maria Papadimitriou unless otherwise stated.

Categories ,Agnes Valentine, ,Alice Wilby, ,By Stamo, ,Celine Elliott, ,Charlie Divall, ,Claire Kearns, ,Classic, ,Coat, ,design, ,designer, ,Dress, ,ecodesign, ,Ecoluxe, ,Elena Garcia, ,estethica, ,Ethical brands, ,fashion, ,Feminine, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Futurefrock, ,Headpiece, ,Hemyca, ,Hetty Rose, ,Inala London, ,jewellery, ,Kingsway Hall Hotel, ,London Fashion Week, ,Lucy Harvey, ,Lupe Castro, ,Maria Papadimitriou, ,minimal, ,Monique Luttin Millinery, ,Outsider, ,Outsider Fashion, ,Plastic Seconds, ,Pulped Eucalyptus, ,Recycled Materials, ,shoes, ,Slow Fashion, ,Slowly the Eggs, ,Supported by Rain, ,Swimwear, ,tailoring, ,Vauxhall Fashion Scout, ,vintage, ,Womenswear

Similar Posts:






Amelia’s Magazine | Prose Studio: London Fashion Week A/W 2012 Catwalk Review

Prose A/W 2012 by Joe Waldron
Prose A/W 2012 by Joe Waldron.

As regular readers will know we’ve been fans of Prose Studio for awhile, so it was very exciting to see them showing once more at London Fashion Week this season – a decision based on the opportunity to show alongside some of the most exciting upcoming designers in fashion, a place that suits Prose well. Designer Miriam Lehle is based in Germany but after an appearance with On/Off in 2009 she returned to the UK last season to show at the main stands in Somerset House. For A/W 2012 she took to the catwalk once more with Fashion Scout.

Prose Studio AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Prose Studio AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Prose Studio AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Prose Studio AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Prose A/W 2012 by Natalie Lines
Prose A/W 2012 by Natalie Lines.

Each season Miriam Lehle explores a new and very different theme, but a core love of baggy, boxy shapes and unorthodox textures remains essential to each collection. This time around she focused on squared-off shapes in muted tones of midnight, ochre and chestnut, which were adorned with different types of contrasting layered fringing – a look which worked especially well on a round shouldered caplet that was worn with sumptuous harem-style burnt orange velvet trousers.

Prose Studio AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Prose Studio AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Prose Studio AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Prose Studio AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Prose A/W 2012 by Claire Jones
Prose A/W 2012 by Claire Jones.

The collection was teamed with sensible lace up shoes, slicked back wet-look hair, strong brows and red lips. A dash of mustard yellow brought a light lift and the exposed back on an asymmetric dress lent a sexy edge to an otherwise slightly androgynous collection.

Prose Studio AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Prose Studio AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Prose Studio AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Prose A/W 2012 by Sara Pateraki
Prose A/W 2012 by Sara Pateraki.

Tasselled fringing came in stiffened patent leather, which also appeared as a patchwork material for skirts and trousers. This was juxtaposed against yarn based fringing which created a softer, almost fluffy, silhouette in vertical and horizontal stripes.

Prose Studio AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Prose Studio AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Prose Studio AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Prose Studio A/W 2012 by Barb Royal
Prose Studio A/W 2012 by Barb Royal.

A favourite garment was a marbled red silk dress which featured the boxy relaxed shape that Prose is known for – and interesting peaked ruffles on the shoulders that echoed the high gathered waist.

Prose Studio AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Prose Studio AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Prose Studio AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Prose Studio AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Prose Studio A/W 2012 by Barb Royal
Prose Studio A/W 2012 by Barb Royal
Prose Studio A/W 2012 by Barb Royal.

The A/W 2012 collection from Prose was confident and polished: without a doubt Miriam Lehle will have converted a whole new army of fans.

Prose Studio AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Prose Studio AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Prose Studio AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Prose Studio AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Prose Studio AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
Prose Studio AW 2012 - photo by Amelia Gregory
All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Prose A/W 2012 by Kristina Grundberg
Prose A/W 2012 by Kristina Grundberg.

Categories ,A/W 2012, ,Barb Royal, ,catwalk, ,Claire Jones, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Joe Waldron, ,Kristina Grundberg, ,lfw, ,Miriam Lehle, ,Natalie Lines, ,Prose Studio, ,review, ,Sara Pateraki

Similar Posts:






Amelia’s Magazine | Lug Von Siga: London Fashion Week A/W 2013 Catwalk Review

Luc Von Siga by Louise Smith
Lug Von Siga LFW A/W 2013 by Louise Smith

At first I stand, then I kneel, and by the time the show starts, I’m sitting on the floor. Hardly the most elegant of positions, but comfortable and as an added bonus; clean-view camera shots can be achieved through this little-known ‘crouching tiger’ catwalk-reporting technique.

Luc von Siga by Louise Smith
Lug Von Siga LFW A/W 2013 by Louise Smith

I’m hooked from the moment the orchestral song starts playing at Lug Von Siga‘s A/W 2013 LFW show in Freemasons’ Hall. The music reminds me of listening to the Peter and the Wolf audiotape as a kid. Unnervingly, what drew me in comes back to haunt me and within minutes it sounds more like the distinctive shower-dagger scene from Alfred Hitchcock’s Psycho. I suppose they do say you’d have to be crazy to be a designer…

Lug Von Siga AW 2013
Lug Von Siga AW 2013
All photography by Amelia Gregory

The clothes have a story-time feel to them; modernized fairytale-wear updated for the current era with a lashing of chic and well-cut to add some sophistication. What would a 2013 Little Red Riding Hood wear under her cape? What would a modern day Cap ‘o’ Rushes put on for work? There’s definitely an Upper East Side fairytale Queen among these outfits. A chain-mail like use of silver on one piece feels very knight in shining armour too; female of course.

Lug Von Siga AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Lug Von Siga AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Lug Von Siga AW 2013

Turkish designer Lug Von Siga offers this stylish collection on the opening day of LFW A/W 2013. An outfit is even complete with shards of mirror, seemingly confirming my suspicions that the collection is nodding to Snow White, although I soon discover they are actually inspired by Ottoman Empire superstitions. This ancient influence expresses itself through a futuristic look and there’s a hint of 1940s in the block shapes. Elegance is maintained throughout with long gloves and trilby hats. The colours are surprising, with magenta and gold popping up unexpectedly. A shiny jacket with a tinge of astronaut reminds me of Midas and his golden touch as well as hinting at 80s influences. The cherry on top of all this is some rich plum pieces. Combined with the unnerving soundtrack, this magenta makes me think of a certain Cluedo professor and gives the collection an air of mystery. “It was Lug Von Siga’s collection in Freemasons’ Hall with the monochrome that did it for me,” I think to myself.

Lug Von Siga by Rosemary Kirton
Lug Von Siga A/W 2013 by Rosemary Kirton

Lasalle Academy graduate Lug Von Siga has come up with a solid collection; high detatchable collars and androgynous styling define the look. Wool is contrasted against loose fitted jackets and faux-fur is brought into the mix. The pieces are notably well-tailored and there’s a large number of sleeveless garments.

Lug Von Siga AW 2013
Lug Von Siga AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory
Lug Von Siga AW 2013

I notice a boy in the audience has an almost identical hat to one of the models. I brush the dust-bunnies from my skirt as I move to get a better view. I’m sitting next to the press photographers. All hunched up together, sitting, standing, crouching; an android with two dozen eyes. What would Charlie Brooker say if he saw them, eh?! I imagine he would roll his eyes deliberately. There’s nothing as annoying as the snapping of the pappa’ during a show. The cameras are so loud they actually create an additional soundtrack, like some sort of rogue percussion instrument. I’m desperate to turn my camera on them and start taking pictures, it feels as though there’s something to document just in the press section. I decide this would be an act of defiance of epic proportions and refrain from listening to the itch of my camera. I look at the audience around me and there are cameras everywhere. iPhones, Nikons, even iPads are held up towards the models.

I put my own SLR down guiltily.

Categories ,A/W 2013, ,Fairytale, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Jessica Cook, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,Louise Smith, ,Lug Von Siga, ,monochrome, ,Orchestral, ,Rosemary Kirton

Similar Posts: