Amelia’s Magazine | Sunglasses Trends: London Fashion Week S/S 2013 Catwalk Review

Chanel Sunglasses SS13 by Isher Dhiman
Chanel Sunglasses S/S 2013 by Isher Dhiman.

According to trends analysts designer sunglasses are getting smaller and rounder: with edgier designers such as Ashish showing the kind of sunnies that I sported in the early 90s, along with baggy rave clothing, hippy dresses and grunge gear.

Ashish SS 2013 Sept 2012-sunglasses
There are also a plethora of Ray Ban Aviator type shapes such as those at Felder Felder which are coloured in a nod to the ever popular heavily shaded retro look which is still popular, as seen in Gucci glasses for S/S 2013.

chanel sunglasses illustration shyillustrations
Chanel S/S 2013 sunglasses by Sheilagh Tighe aka shy illustrations.

My favourite high end designer look of the season has to be these amazing Coco Chanel sunglasses featuring a sculptural cutout of the visionary lady herself. But if the styling at some shows is anything to go by then the hottest sunglasses trend for S/S 2013 is still bigger, brighter and lairier. And not always entirely fit for purpose.

Tatty Devine sunglasses for Louise Gray S/S 2013 by Helena Clarkson
Tatty Devine sunglasses for Louise Gray S/S 2013 by Helena Clarkson.

Tatty Devine sunglasses for Louise Gray by shy illustrations
Tatty Devine sunglasses for Louise Gray by Sheilagh Tighe aka shy illustrations.

Tatty Devine‘s scribble sunglasses for the new Louise Gray collectionNow What‘ echo the oversized rings and dramatic eyebrows created for the show. You’d struggle to see out of them but they made a big impact when worn with huge pearlised mirror effect dangly earrings.

Leutton Postle SS 2013 Sept 2012-close
Leutton Postle S/S 2013 sunglasses by Sharon Farrow
Leutton Postle S/S 2013 sunglasses by Sharon Farrow.

Over at Leutton Postle the daring design duo had raided their craft box to embellish bold sunglasses with brightly coloured beads, leaving only a small gap through which to view the world. It will be intriguing to see how such unconventional looks filter through to mainstream sunglasses trends over the next few seasons.

Leutton Postle sunglasses by Rebecca May Higgins
Leutton Postle sunglasses by Rebecca May Higgins.

Categories ,90s, ,Ashish, ,Coco Chanel, ,Designer glasses, ,Felder Felder, ,Glasses, ,Gucci glasses, ,Helena Clarkson, ,Isher Dhiman, ,Leutton Postle, ,lfw, ,Louise Gray, ,Ray Ban Aviator, ,Rebecca May Higgins, ,S/S 2013, ,Sharon Farrow, ,Sheilagh Tighe, ,Shy Illustrations, ,SmartBuyGlassesUK, ,Sunglasses, ,Tatty Devine, ,trends

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Amelia’s Magazine | Nova Chiu: London Fashion Week S/S 2013 Catwalk Review

Nova Chiu S/S 2013 by Sharon Farrow
Nova Chiu S/S 2013 by Sharon Farrow.

It’s always difficult to follow up a much feted graduation collection: so I had to admire the spunk of Nova Chiu… who seemed to grab the task with relish for S/S 2013. The show opened with images of the open road, waterfalls and trees, setting the scene for what was to come. Rather than reproducing the extravagant layering of last season, the duo concentrated on the creation of some truly stunning placement prints, inspired by their travels around the world.

Nova Chiu SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu S/S 2013 by Kristina Vasiljeva
Nova Chiu S/S 2013 by Kristina Vasiljeva.

Loosely draped silk dresses and separates came in a range of cuts; strapless, bat sleeved, cropped, mullet hemmed and tasselled. But the tailoring took second place to the stunning colour combinations chosen to depict fantasy landscapes. Clouds scudding across open skies, water cascading over piled rocks, rustling autumnal trees, fiery sunsets – all seemed to acquire an otherworldly neon Nova Chiu tint.

Nova Chiu SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu S/S 2013 by Shy Illustrations
Nova Chiu S/S 2013 by Sheilagh Tighe aka Shy Illustrations.

The outfits were worn with colour matched platform high heels, some covered with oodles of tiny ruffles. Nova Chiu‘s trademark embellishments appeared on miniature barrel bags and in the form of bold jewels by Marina Prokopiva at neck, wrists and ears. The models came in a range of sizes that included sexily curvy, an admirable choice that highlighted the wearability of the garments.

Nova Chiu SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu S/S 2013 by Isher Dhiman
Nova Chiu S/S 2013 by Isher Dhiman.

The diminutive Nova made a brief appearance on the catwalk at the end with her partner Jeff Archer. I hope that they are pleased that with the Bon Voyage collection they have retained their signature colourful drama whilst exploring new production techniques so successfully.

Nova Chiu SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu S/S 2013. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,Bon Voyage, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Isher Dhiman, ,Jeff Archer, ,Kristina Vasiljeva, ,lfw, ,Marina Prokopiva, ,Nova Chiu, ,S/S 2013, ,Sharon Farrow, ,Sheilagh Tighe, ,Shy Illustrations

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Amelia’s Magazine | Nova Chiu: London Fashion Week S/S 2013 Catwalk Review

Nova Chiu S/S 2013 by Sharon Farrow
Nova Chiu S/S 2013 by Sharon Farrow.

It’s always difficult to follow up a much feted graduation collection: so I had to admire the spunk of Nova Chiu… who seemed to grab the task with relish for S/S 2013. The show opened with images of the open road, waterfalls and trees, setting the scene for what was to come. Rather than reproducing the extravagant layering of last season, the duo concentrated on the creation of some truly stunning placement prints, inspired by their travels around the world.

Nova Chiu SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu S/S 2013 by Kristina Vasiljeva
Nova Chiu S/S 2013 by Kristina Vasiljeva.

Loosely draped silk dresses and separates came in a range of cuts; strapless, bat sleeved, cropped, mullet hemmed and tasselled. But the tailoring took second place to the stunning colour combinations chosen to depict fantasy landscapes. Clouds scudding across open skies, water cascading over piled rocks, rustling autumnal trees, fiery sunsets – all seemed to acquire an otherworldly neon Nova Chiu tint.

Nova Chiu SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu S/S 2013 by Shy Illustrations
Nova Chiu S/S 2013 by Sheilagh Tighe aka Shy Illustrations.

The outfits were worn with colour matched platform high heels, some covered with oodles of tiny ruffles. Nova Chiu‘s trademark embellishments appeared on miniature barrel bags and in the form of bold jewels by Marina Prokopiva at neck, wrists and ears. The models came in a range of sizes that included sexily curvy, an admirable choice that highlighted the wearability of the garments.

Nova Chiu SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu S/S 2013 by Isher Dhiman
Nova Chiu S/S 2013 by Isher Dhiman.

The diminutive Nova made a brief appearance on the catwalk at the end with her partner Jeff Archer. I hope that they are pleased that with the Bon Voyage collection they have retained their signature colourful drama whilst exploring new production techniques so successfully.

Nova Chiu SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu SS 2013 Sept 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu S/S 2013. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,Bon Voyage, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Isher Dhiman, ,Jeff Archer, ,Kristina Vasiljeva, ,lfw, ,Marina Prokopiva, ,Nova Chiu, ,S/S 2013, ,Sharon Farrow, ,Sheilagh Tighe, ,Shy Illustrations

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Amelia’s Magazine | New S/S 2013 Season Interview: Fanny & Jessy present Uscopia

Fanny & Jessy by Rebecca Higgins
Fanny & Jessy by Rebecca Higgins.

A year ago I was blown away by the S/S 2012 catwalk collection by design duo Fanny & Jessy. This season the androgynous style of Uscopia is presented in the otherworldly terrain of… Somerset (with added foil). Sporty utilitarian shapes are given the Fanny & Jessy treatment with metallic fabrics and digital prints inspired by the Northern Lights.

How did Fanny & Jessy start life?
We met at London College of Fashion in our very first pattern cutting class! 

Fanny and Jessy S:S 2013
What sets Fanny & Jessy apart from other fashion brands?
We tend to make clothes that we would like to wear and based very much on us, our likes, personalities and what we’re influenced by rather than following trends – although there’s obviously a lot of sub-conscious influence from living where we do. We are also moving away from the un-written rules of the industry, this is a recent change, but definitely sets us apart from other brands. We are moving away from season’s and having direct contact with our customer through our new E-Commerce site and social networks.

Fanny and Jessy S:S 2013
Can you tell me a bit more about Uscopia, the current collection?
Welcome to Uscopia! After spending a long season delving in to images of other-worldly terraines, earthscapes and mind-bending natural formations we have created our own world. Using found images of the northern lights in Iceland, manipulated by artist Leif Podhajsky we have created a colourful yet organic print which includes the seemingly unnatural colours that run through the entire collection. 

Fanny and Jessy S:S 2013
How and where was the new look book shot?
We went off on our own little adventure to the countryside to shoot our new campaign and make some short films with a dream team gang consisting of photographer Rory DCS, film-maker Danny Sangra, megababe models Georgia Frost and Polly Brown, stylist Siobhan Lyons and make-up artist Poppy France. We went and explored the (suprisingly) supernatural landscape of our home county Somerset and came out with some beautiful results!

Fanny and Jessy SS2013 by Shy Illustrations
Fanny and Jessy S/S 2013 by Shy Illustrations.

You’ve decided to sell your clothes from your own online store, what led to this decision?
We are taking a step away from being a traditionally seasonal brand, and looking more towards the way we felt when we started the label, making our own rules, setting our own deadlines and feeling closer to our customers. We will be stepping outside of the all consuming Fashion Orb and see what new places we can discover along the way! 

Fanny and Jessy S:S 2013

What did you do with Danny Sangra over LFW, and how did this come about?
We have worked with Danny since we first started the label, he designed our Logo and also the cult I Hope You Die Soon T-shirts that became synonymous with our label in the early days. He is one of our best friends and favourite people to work with so it was natural to start this new adventure with him. We made 5 video stings for our online launch, 1 for each day of fashion week. See all 5 stings above. We also got him to graffiti all over The Salon Club‘s gorilla – they have a big white gorilla as part of their furniture and Danny drew all over him for the launch!

fanny&jess by_angela lamb
Fanny & Jessy by Angela Lamb.

What else did you do to launch the current collection? 
We threw an exclusive party at The Salon Club in Mayfair for friends of the label after fashion week with our favourite boys and band of the moment Splashh who played a live set with visual projections and special DJ set from the masterful Leif Podhajsky. It was a great way to share the excitement of our revolution! 

Fanny and Jessy S:S 2013
Fanny&Jessy SS13_IsherDhiman
Fanny & Jessy S/S 2013 by Isher Dhiman.

What next for Fanny & Jessy
Collaborations, small capsule collections and a new film.. also an exciting Advent Calendar Christmas sale to get your hands on some of our A/W 2012 Sea Foam in Your Eyes collection!

Categories ,A/W 2012, ,Angela Lamb, ,Danny Sangra, ,Fashion Orb, ,Georgia Frost, ,I Hope You Die Soon, ,interview, ,Isher Dhiman, ,Leif Podhajsky, ,London College of Fashion, ,Polly Brown, ,Poppy France, ,Rebecca Higgins, ,Rory DCS, ,S/S 2013, ,Sea Foam in Your Eyes, ,Sheilagh Tighe, ,Shy Illustrations, ,Siobhan Lyons, ,Splashh, ,The Salon Club, ,Uscopia

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Amelia’s Magazine | Edinburgh College of Art: Graduate Fashion Week 2012 Catwalk Review


Graduate collection by Farah Saffari

Edinburgh College of Art always have much to offer at Graduate Fashion Week. Weird and wonderful, expert craftsmanship, innovative use of materials and new silhouettes, Edinburgh always seems to make it appear dazzling effortless.

They were all wonderful, frankly, but here are some of my favourites:

Jacob Birge


All photography by Matt Bramford

Jacob caused a striking stir as the show’s opener, featuring futuristic shapes and wide brimmed visor hats. Industrial colours lifted dresses, which were more like armour.

Raj Mistry

Graduate collection by Raj Mistry

Raj’s expert menswear collection really stood out. He married sportswear with engineered shapes with luxurious materials for outerwear; zips and drawstrings in contrasting colours were nice details.

Farah Saffari


Graduate collection by Farah Saffari

A whimsical approach to fashion was the mainstay in Farah’s collection, inspired by nature and, probably, the beach. Cropped tops, translucent layers and piped waists resulted in mermaid-like creatures rather than models.

Colin Oliphant

Something about Colin’s relaxed tailoring for men that also worked on ladies really stood out; it was simplicity at its best. Subtle lapel-free jackets with crew necks were worn over collarless shirts in muted colours, and a collection like this is always welcome amidst a sea of designers who try to push the boundaries a little too far.

Ainslie Hogg

Juxtaposed to Colin’s subtle collection (above) came Ainslie Hogg’s weird and wonderful experimentation with material and shape. It was the kind of collection, akin to Michael Van Der Ham, that shouldn’t work but completely does. Materials of various textures and densities were combined in hap-hazard fashion to create striking ensembles.

Katarzyna Krzywania

I simply loved Katarzyna’s hooded overcoats with contrasting geometric shapes.

Dan William James Prasad


Graduate collection by Dan William James Prasad

Dan’s menswear was a perfect blend of old and new – a sort of updated period novel hero with contemporary, aesthetic fabrics in the place where tweeds and heritage fabrics might be. High-waisted trousers and structured jackets featured in this richly-coloured collection.

Katie Bremner

What’s not to love about Katie’s ethereal world? Her fringed frocks in garish colours, embellished with hearts, added both fun and thought provocation to the show. Not a collection for the supermarket, but for the fashion-forward at the very least.

Marie Leiknes


Pages from Marie Leiknes‘ graduate collection sketchbooks

Marie creates new silhouettes from marvellous knitwear in vivid colours. Millinery had an Eastern influence, whilst the garments themselves featured triangular wool formations and contrasting colours.

Riona Horrox
Riona might have looked to 1990s hip hop for inspiration for her premium menswear. Oversized coats with digital prints were decorated with wool trims or worn with hoods. Orange and copper highlights glared from a general colour palette of black and grey. Riona went on to win the Menswear Award at the Gala Show yesterday evening (more to come on that soon) – and quite rightly so.

Louise Bennetts

Louise’s collection consisted of parachute-like dresses and capes in varying shades of orange – warm tones that brought life to paler structures. Layered translucent materials created interest, and bold black lines that divided up the garments added yet another dimension to this highly polished collection.

Emma Hardstaff
Emma closed the show with her collection of dreamy quilted numbers with vague digital prints, some of which were disguised with translucent fabric. The prawn-like head pieces, whilst attracting attention, were a little unnecessary – but it was a collection worthy of closing the show nonetheless, and gained much deserved recognition at the Gala Show. Bravo!

Three cheers for Edinburgh, as always! Hip Hip…

Categories ,2012, ,Ainslie Hogg, ,catwalk, ,Colin Oliphant, ,Dan William James Prasad, ,Earls Court Two, ,ECA, ,Edinburgh College of Art, ,Emma Hardstaff, ,Farah Saffari, ,Graduate Fashion Week 2012, ,Jacob Birge, ,Katarzyna Krzywania, ,Katie Bremner, ,knitwear, ,Louise Bennetts, ,Marie Leikes, ,menswear, ,Michael van der Ham, ,Raj Mistry, ,review, ,Riona Horrox, ,Womenswear

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Amelia’s Magazine | Ekaterina Kukhareva: London Fashion Week S/S 2014 Catwalk Review

Ekaterina Kukhareva S/S 2014 by Yelena Bryksenkova
Ekaterina Kukhareva S/S 2014 by Yelena Bryksenkova.

It must have seemed like a good idea on paper: create an interesting presentation by employing a male model to fake rake a Japanese style rock garden whilst models strut up and down. Unfortunately said male model was a major distraction at the Ekaterina Kukhareva show – bobbing in and out of photo opportunities when all we really wanted was a clear shot of the girls in elegant Oriental inspired intarsia patterned dresses and knitted trouser suits in shades of summer sorbet. Plastic cut out stack heeled boots injected an on trend shock of neon, but best of all were the extravagant flower covered net fascinators that were tied in frothy bows over the models’ faces.

Ekaterina Kukhareva S/S 2014 by Gaarte
Ekaterina Kukhareva S/S 2014 by Gaarte
Ekaterina Kukhareva S/S 2014 by Gaarte.

Ekaterina Kukhareva SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Ekaterina Kukhareva SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Ekaterina Kukhareva SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Ekaterina Kukhareva SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Ekaterina Kukhareva SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Ekaterina Kukhareva SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Ekaterina Kukhareva SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Ekaterina Kukhareva SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Ekaterina Kukhareva SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Ekaterina Kukhareva SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Ekaterina Kukhareva SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Ekaterina Kukhareva SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory
Ekaterina Kukhareva S/S 2014. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Categories ,Gaarte, ,Yelena Bryksenkova

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Amelia’s Magazine | An interview with Seaming To and review of her new album Seaming

SEAMING album COVER
The long awaited solo album by musical maestro Seaming opens with the quietest of hums… (o sing at me) before introducing the listener to the full range of her inimitable operatic style: there are many influences on this album but the one constant is Seaming‘s extraordinary voice. In Sodaslow (sipped) her dulcet tones are backed by strings, in a tune that tracks the journey of a drink. Such idiosyncratic subject matter is typical of Seaming, whose career and musical development has traced an interesting arc, taking in time with such musical luminaries as Herbaliser and Cinematic Orchestra and countless performance related collaborations including an animation for surrealist theatre company Forkbeard Fantasy and soundtracks with the film-maker Michael England. For her third tune it’s out with the strings and in with Moog-ish noodlings for I’m Going To See. Mermaid is an off kilter love story, bleeps and staccato hammerings on Bee evoke the subject with canny musicianship and Strelizia relies on the more traditional use of a clarinet. As her self titled album reaches a finale Seaming draws on her beloved piano to provide a floating voice-less melody for Deer, ending on the clashing slowed beats of Humid.

The album works well as a beguilingly hypnotic whole that can be listened to again and again. I cite as an example: on rotation it was the perfect soundtrack for my journey up to Centre Parcs in Nottinghamshire a few weeks ago.

Seaming by Nicola Porter
Seaming by Nicola Porter.

It’s been awhile! What have you been up to over the past 8 years? Any highlights?
Hello! Oh, I got a bit more wrinkly, bit more wiser, bit more silly, and have finally returned to my place of birth, a familiar yet completely new landscape!

seaming by Reuben Wu
Seaming by Reuben Wu.

You’re both an opera singer and a classically trained multi-instrumentalist – what other musical abilities do you have that helped in the creation of the album?
I recorded most of this at home, in my Womb (my studio),  I would not call myself a whizz engineer, but I am happy to sit and tweak and listen, so quite a bit of the album was mixed at home also.

Seaming by Jacqueline Valencia
Seaming by Jacqueline Valencia.

What instrument do you always return to when you’re creating songs?
The piano.. usually my mother’s Steinway at her house..

You’ve excelled in the more experimental zones of classical and avante grade electronic music – what attracts you to a particular piece or type of music?
Have I?! What attracts me to a piece of music, how sonically it touches; a solo instrument; the melody; or orchestral harmony: textures, structures; otherworldy electronic sounds: words that trigger imagination, emotion; and how it manifests physically (I threw up after a friend’s gig once..)

Seaming To by Shy Illustrations
Seaming To by Shy Illustrations.

What inspired the lyrics and feel of your new album?
The feel, well, I had not planned to make it feel a certain way. inspiration? They are love songs, inspired by people events dreams, songs to trees, grinding teeth, dancing, sea sorcerers, lying on your back looking down onto the sea, sitting next to someone you love..

How long did it take to put together and who else were your closet cohorts in its creation?
It took a few years to release, and the closest cohorts include Paddy Steer, Graham Massey, Semay Wu, my mum, my gentleman and Sonia Mangwana.

seaming HAIR MACHINE
Your album has an incredibly striking cover, what was the inspiration behind its creation and who made the artwork?
Michael England created the artwork (and all the artwork to my previous EPs, Mermaid and Sodaslow), check him out, I think he’s a genius. He always has a story/narrative behind every image he creates. Someone said recently that the cover artwork looks 70s disco, I am not sure if that was Eng’s intention! For the rest of the album artwork (and there are quite few images, he really went to town with it, which is typical Michael England) I am sat in my music room in the towers at a place called Mingdom.

It’s been said that your music would work well as the soundtrack to other performances, for instance ballet – is this something you would like to work towards in the future and if so what kind of collaboration would you like to do?
I do love working to narratives, creating music for moving image and have previously been asked make music for films, and theatre. I have not yet worked with dance but would absolutely love to. There are future plans to work with Butoh dancer Sayoko Onishi, based in Sicily.

seaming MINGDOM
In terms of other contemporary artists, who do you enjoy listening to? Any top tips for us to seek out?
Leila, Leon Michener, Andrew Plummer’s World Sanguine Report, Sofia Jernberg and Juice Vocal Ensemble.

What are you up to for the rest of the year? can we see you on tour or similar?
I am preparing for my album launch which will be at Vortex in London (Gillett Square, Dalston, Hackney), with my newly formed band (made up of avant-garde pianist Leon Michener, Double bass player Olie Brice (played with Evan Parker/Mulatu Astatke), and drummer/electronics Tim Giles (Nostalgia 77), what remarkable musicians they are, come down can you? It’s on Thursday 22nd November. We will make a European tour next year too. I shall keep you well informed! Also I am to go on a UK tour, in March 2013, with my mum, pianist Enloc Wu, performing ‘Songs for My Grandmother‘ involving spycorders and vintage electronics, and supported by electronic artist and film maker Kira Kira


The self titled debut album by Seaming is out on Lumin on 3rd December 2012. Hear her Mermaid EP above.

Categories ,Andrew Plummer’s World Sanguine Report, ,Butoh, ,Cinematic Orchestra, ,Enloc Wu, ,Evan Parker, ,Forkbeard Fantasy, ,Graham Massey, ,Herbaliser, ,Jacqueline Valencia, ,Juice Vocal Ensemble, ,Kira Kira, ,Leila, ,Leon Michener, ,Lumin, ,Mermaid, ,Michael England, ,Mingdom, ,Mulatu Astatke, ,Nicola Porter, ,Nostalgia 77, ,Olie Brice, ,Paddy Steer, ,Reuben Wu, ,Sayoko Onishi, ,Seaming, ,Seaming To, ,Semay Wu, ,Sheilagh Tighe, ,Shy Illustrations, ,Sodaslow, ,Sofia Jernberg, ,Songs for My Grandmother, ,Sonia Mangwana, ,Steinway, ,Tim Giles, ,Vortex

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Amelia’s Magazine | Savages at Electrowerkz: Live Review

Savages by Sharon Farrow

Savages by Sharon Farrow

Tucked away behind Angel Tube Station, down a small side street, you seem to be a world away from this most respectable part of North London. Indeed, only a stone’s throw from a Jamie Oliver restaurant, Electrowerkz stands in stark contrast. Housed in an old warehouse, Electrowerkz, or more officially, the Islington Metal Works, is a slightly surreal warren of rooms that, according to the website (when it’s not hosting weddings and other functions) still operates as an actual metal works. As a venue, it’s probably better known for club nights, and its dark, almost claustrophobic interior has that late eighties/early nineties rave feel to it. I’d first been here almost a decade ago (to see a then housemate play an electro set) and, until a month or so ago, hadn’t been back since. In all that time, the place remained unchanged.

Tonight, the buzz was all about Savages, on the first night of a brief residency. First up, though, were Blue On Blue. I’d seen them a couple of years ago as a shoegazey three-piece, but now as a duo (Dee Sada on keyboards and bass, Billy Steiger on keyboards, guitar and violin), they offer a more minimal, glitchy sound. I was most impressed with them, and the crowd that had gathered to watch seemed supportive.

Savages by Shy Illustrations

Savages by Shy Illustrations

During the break, I went for a bit of a wander, navigating a new set of stairs I’d never noticed previously. Hidden away on the lower level, past what appeared to be a video installation of some sort, was a small screening room showing an unusual early sixties Japanese film (which I later discovered to be the avant-garde classic The Woman In The Dunes).

YouTube Preview Image

Back upstairs, the crowd in the main room was beginning to swell as Savages’ set approached. This is a band that has really appeared from nowhere. Despite only being together since last year (and playing live for a few months), and with one single to their name (the double A side of Flying To Berlin and Husbands), they have earned lashings of praise from the music press, featured at a number of festivals, bagged a TV spot with Jools Holland and played at packed out venues (including an audience featuring the great and the good of the major indie record labels at Dalston’s Shacklewell Arms). I’d seen singer Jehnny Beth a couple of times before, as one half of French duo John & Jehn, but the sound of Savages is much darker than their pop noir, more a lesson in post-punk back to basics.

Savages by Gemma Green-Hope

Savages by Gemma Green-Hope

Taking to a suitably industrial looking stage, and bathed in harsh beams of white and blue light, Savages immediately let rip. With Fay Milton pounding away on drums, the rumbling bass of Ayse Hassan and Gemma Thompson’s squalls of guitar noise behind the jittery presence of Jehnny Beth, they recall such luminaries as Public Image Ltd, Siouxsie And The Banshees and Joy Division (indeed, the bassline on Flying To Berlin tips a sizeable doff of the cap to that of Peter Hook on Joy Division’s Colony). I tend to be a bit wary when it comes to hype bands, but with songs like City’s Full and Husbands reverberating around the tiny room, it proved that Savages are the real deal. And they are loud! They certainly got the audience going, though it looked a bit too sardine-like at the front for any moshing. Most surprising thing, though, was seeing a guy in front of me actually sketching the band on his iPad!

YouTube Preview Image

As the set closer Husbands shuddered to an abrupt halt, Savages left the stage to roars from the crowd, but there was to be no encore. Instead, to console ourselves, there is the newly released live EP and the prospect of seeing them once more in the UK in November, after a short trip to the States and some dates around Europe. After that, we shall have to wait and see what surprises Savages spring next.

Categories ,Blue On Blue, ,dalston, ,electrowerkz, ,Gemma Green-Hope, ,Islington, ,Jamie Oliver, ,Japanese film, ,John & Jehn, ,Jools Holland, ,joy division, ,Peter Hook, ,Post Punk, ,Public Image Ltd, ,Savages, ,Shacklewell Arms, ,Sharon Farrow, ,Sheilagh Tighe, ,shoegaze, ,Shy Illustrations, ,siouxsie and the banshees, ,The Woman In The Dunes

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