Amelia’s Magazine | Sunglasses Trends: London Fashion Week S/S 2013 Catwalk Review

Chanel Sunglasses SS13 by Isher Dhiman
Chanel Sunglasses S/S 2013 by Isher Dhiman.

According to trends analysts designer sunglasses are getting smaller and rounder: with edgier designers such as Ashish showing the kind of sunnies that I sported in the early 90s, along with baggy rave clothing, hippy dresses and grunge gear.

Ashish SS 2013 Sept 2012-sunglasses
There are also a plethora of Ray Ban Aviator type shapes such as those at Felder Felder which are coloured in a nod to the ever popular heavily shaded retro look which is still popular, as seen in Gucci glasses for S/S 2013.

chanel sunglasses illustration shyillustrations
Chanel S/S 2013 sunglasses by Sheilagh Tighe aka shy illustrations.

My favourite high end designer look of the season has to be these amazing Coco Chanel sunglasses featuring a sculptural cutout of the visionary lady herself. But if the styling at some shows is anything to go by then the hottest sunglasses trend for S/S 2013 is still bigger, brighter and lairier. And not always entirely fit for purpose.

Tatty Devine sunglasses for Louise Gray S/S 2013 by Helena Clarkson
Tatty Devine sunglasses for Louise Gray S/S 2013 by Helena Clarkson.

Tatty Devine sunglasses for Louise Gray by shy illustrations
Tatty Devine sunglasses for Louise Gray by Sheilagh Tighe aka shy illustrations.

Tatty Devine‘s scribble sunglasses for the new Louise Gray collectionNow What‘ echo the oversized rings and dramatic eyebrows created for the show. You’d struggle to see out of them but they made a big impact when worn with huge pearlised mirror effect dangly earrings.

Leutton Postle SS 2013 Sept 2012-close
Leutton Postle S/S 2013 sunglasses by Sharon Farrow
Leutton Postle S/S 2013 sunglasses by Sharon Farrow.

Over at Leutton Postle the daring design duo had raided their craft box to embellish bold sunglasses with brightly coloured beads, leaving only a small gap through which to view the world. It will be intriguing to see how such unconventional looks filter through to mainstream sunglasses trends over the next few seasons.

Leutton Postle sunglasses by Rebecca May Higgins
Leutton Postle sunglasses by Rebecca May Higgins.

Categories ,90s, ,Ashish, ,Coco Chanel, ,Designer glasses, ,Felder Felder, ,Glasses, ,Gucci glasses, ,Helena Clarkson, ,Isher Dhiman, ,Leutton Postle, ,lfw, ,Louise Gray, ,Ray Ban Aviator, ,Rebecca May Higgins, ,S/S 2013, ,Sharon Farrow, ,Sheilagh Tighe, ,Shy Illustrations, ,SmartBuyGlassesUK, ,Sunglasses, ,Tatty Devine, ,trends

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Amelia’s Magazine | Middlesex University Graduate Fashion Designers 2013: Preview Part Two

Sarah Kathryn Grantham by Rebecca May Higgins
Sarah Kathryn Grantham by Rebecca May Higgins.

You’ve met my first pick of the 2013 graduating Middlesex University fashion and fashion textiles students: now meet the rest.

Middlesex Fashion Graduate Show 2013-Jiselle Pineda
Middlesex Fashion Graduate Show 2013-Jiselle Pineda 2
A tailored trio of sleek cream dresses and suiting by Jiselle Pineda featured tie detailing, high collars and a cut out back which made clever use of contrasting black fabric.

Middlesex Fashion Graduate Show 2013-Sukpreet Kaur Jugpal
Wanita Panchal presented a brave menswear collection with a patchwork effect created from contrasting textiles on zippered loose coats, worn over drainpipe trousers and accessorised with pointy Arabian style shoes.

Middlesex Fashion Graduate Show 2013-Jeyda Yilmaz
Jeyda Yilmaz put a pretty lilac print on a cute flared skater dress with pom-pom heeled shoes.

Middlesex Fashion Graduate Show 2013-Jason Patrick Carvalho
Jason Patrick Carvalho presented a sweeping dress with beautiful bold styling: a golden frame and letterbox red gloves.

Middlesex Fashion Graduate Show 2013-Sarah Kathryn Grantham
I loved stiff golden frills on ra-ra skirts by Sarah Kathryn Grantham.

Middlesex Fashion Graduate Show 2013-Natasha Tandoh
Natasha Tandoh used great accessories to match intriguing prints on peasant inspired garments.

Middlesex Fashion Graduate Show 2013-Eva Juhasz
Eva Juhasz mixed outsized mesh and ruffles with fiery print chiffon and woven geometric appliqué.

Middlesex Fashion Graduate Show 2013-Kirin Atwal
Kirin Atwal‘s mainly cream collection featured panels of a striped burnt orange and black fabric that was also used in oversized holdall bags in this very professional and well styled collection.

Middlesex Fashion Graduate Show 2013-Eliot Moran
Outsize roped knitwear by Eliot Moran was accessorised with hard knitted helmets to present an intriguing silhouette.

Middlesex Fashion Graduate Show 2013-Charlotte Stewart
I loved the way that Charlotte Stewart matched neon tartan checks with black fabric and chunky lace up shoes: late 80s style made modern once more.

Middlesex Fashion Graduate Show 2013-Charlotte Jones
A delicate rope work motif took centre stage in designs by Charlotte Jones.

Middlesex Fashion Graduate Show 2013-Lisa George
Intricate pleating by Lisa George was formed into an amazing rippled all-in-one jumpsuit.

Middlesex Fashion Graduate Show 2013-Karolina Formici
An elegant swing trench coat with tie fronted waist by Karolina Formici was worn with brogues and a stunning double rope necklace.

Middlesex Fashion Graduate Show 2013-Ange Syret
Ange Syret presented avante grade clashing printed menswear – with tasselled headgear to match fringing on the garments.

Middlesex Fashion Graduate Show 2013-Laurence Wright
Finally, it looked as if a car crash had inspired Laurence Wright to create a clever collection which made light of injuries: wounds reinterpreted as decorative detail and accessorised with bandaged heads.

Laurence Wright by Cathy Hookey
Laurence Wright by Cathy Hookey.

I look forward to seeing what the chosen designers create for the big catwalk show at the Truman Brewery during Graduate Fashion Week in June.

Categories ,Ange Syret, ,Atrium, ,Ba degree show, ,Cathy Hookey, ,Charlotte Jones, ,Charlotte Stewart, ,Eliot Moran, ,Eva Juhasz, ,fashion, ,Fashion Textiles, ,Graduate Fashion Week, ,Graduate Show, ,Jason Patrick Carvalho, ,Jeyda Yilmaz, ,Jiselle Pineda, ,Karolina Formici, ,Kirin Atwal, ,Laurence Wright, ,Lisa George, ,middlesex university, ,Natasha Tandoh, ,Rebecca Higgins, ,Rebecca May Higgins, ,review, ,Sarah Kathryn Grantham, ,Truman Brewery, ,Wanita Panchal

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Amelia’s Magazine | Charlotte Daffern – Not your stereotypical designer

75dpi legs

Charlotte Daffern’s playful statement jewellery borders on the completely eccentric, whilst tackling ideas of gender and national stereotype. The work re-visits the 1950’s as a result of the surge in a return to the ideals of the housewife from baking and sowing to the current increase in upcycling. Daffern’s work re-invents what are considered to be traditionally upper crust British Fabrics into something fresh and vitalic for today’s youth.

From looking at your designs, the humour and whimsicality often associated with the idea Britishness is incredibly evident, especially in the manipulation of tartan. What other material stereotypes did you find to be eponymous with British Culture?

Whilst I was studying for my MA we had a seminar discussion about what imagery you see when you think of British fashion or British people. It was basically fairly twee: twin sets and pearls for women, shooting jackets for men, flat caps etc. Pearls have run through all of my collections so far, I suppose its one element that nods towards the stereotype and the historical fashion of Britain. I try to create an updated version of the pearl necklace. I think most people imagine pearls on royalty, wealthy ladies or the light lipped librarian. However I didn’t want people to dismiss wearing them because of stereotypes they might have.

75dpi escape apron

Subsequently, how has the exploration of what it is to be British affected your designs?

Whilst my work is based on stereotypes it aims to subvert whilst making reference to them at the same time. In the red tartan work, everyone comments on the connection to Vivienne Westwood. If you change the fabric to something that isn’t tartan I’m not sure you would necessarily make that link with her. I suppose I learned the power changing one element such as a print or colour can have on the perception of the work. Having studied with international students and networked with some American artists and galleries I realised how interested they were in British culture and style, perhaps more so than British people themselves. Really it was a natural progression from observing other cultures perception of ‘Britishness’. The result was a want to present my idea on British lifestyle and stereotypes through design.

charlottedaffernteapot spout bangles

Continuing from the discussion on stereotypes, how do ideas of gender and sociology feature in your work? – I particularly enjoyed the ‘hoody’ body adornment and the one armed necklace.

I like to challenge ideas of gender by putting pearls on a man or by giving a woman a pretty polka dot penis necklace. I love humour, irony and contradictions and I think this corresponds with my ideas of what it is to be British as well. I like knowing what’s going on with social and fashion trends. There are things you can take from the pieces that maybe reference different aspects of past or present culture/ lifestyle.

My more recent work is a combination of two stereotypes – the 1990’s acid house rave character combined with the 1950’s housewife. I represent the raver stereotype through the acidic fluorescent colours and the chaotic nature of some of the pieces and the fabrics are all typical to the 1950’s style – polka dots, stripes, gingham checks, florals.

charlottedaffern

Favourite designers?

I’ve done some work experience at Paul Smith which really influenced my love of all things British! Vivienne Westwood is obviously a huge inspiration and proof you can achieve anything if you go for it and believe in yourself. I suppose that’s the ultimate dream to work for Vivienne Westwood! Comme des Garcons, Viktor and Rolf – love their style and how they challenge rhythm and tradition within their designs. I like to see what other people are doing as well, other jewellers, illustrators, graphic designers, furniture makers! The list is endless.

charlottedaffern

From reading previous answers, would you say your choice of fabric evolves from their involvement in the stereotypes your are subverting?

Yes I think they do. I begin with fabrics that people associate with the stereotype and try to deconstruct and develop new sometimes mutated forms from the initial subjects forms and materials. I think a lot of people associate tartan with ‘Britishness’ and gingham checks with tablecloths but they don’t usually see these made into other things and then transformed into something wearable.

What fabric are you using in the new collection?

In my latest collection I have used the things that I associate with the imagery of the 1950’s housewives. Polka dots, checks, ginhams, florals. I imagined the polka dots on a housewifes dress, the stripey shirts of her husband, the checks on her tablecloth, the flowers sitting in a vase on her table. The fabrics I use are a combination of new, vintage and second hand.

charlottedaffern8

As Amelia’s Magazine focuses frequently on sustainable fashion – I wondered if I could could enquire about your thoughts on the following? Would you consider yourself environmentally aware? If so does being aware of the environment impact your work?

I would definitely like to think I am environmentally aware. My fashion degree dissertation was based on what it is to make a company ethical and profitable. Through all the research I learned a lot about how much gets wasted and which companies (Red Mutha, Kate Fletcher, People Tree, Ciel, Junky Styling) are taking steps towards improving their methods and sourcing. I love recycling and upcycling. There’s something exciting about spotting something in a charity shop that others have overlooked. There is also the challenge of trying to make it into something even better! The only downside to this way of working is storage space. My mum has endured my hoarding ways for years and now my poor boyfriend is going to be subject to it.

Charlotte_Daffern_6

Are there ways that you think our society can be improved and are you as a designer or as an individual engaged in doing anything about this?

I think the ‘fast fashion’ of today is really damaging. Most customers who pop into town won’t know what goes into their £2.50 t-shirt. I think there have been programmes on television which have tried to highlight this but I can appreciate those on low incomes will completely overlook that when they’re at the till. I don’t think it is going to do much good by trying to educate people and leave it solely in their hands. I think it’s the responsibility of the designers and manufacturers to only offer sustainable options (or as sustainable as possible). As a designer there’s the argument of where do you draw the line at calling something ‘sustainable’ or ‘ethical’? I don’t usually bring up where my materials come from unless people ask. However I do like to use recycled beads, haberdashery, fabrics etc and combine these with new. I would like to use more and more recycled materials in the future. Sometimes the problem lies in getting good quality second hand materials and I would rather create something combining new and old so that the aesthetic of the work is not compromised.

Charlotte_Daffern_3

Where did you study and how did you find the design ethos of the teachers on the MA?

I studied at Birmingham School of Jewellery In the Jewellery Quarter. I found that the course supported ideas, concepts and material investigation. It isn’t about trying to fit into any boxes as far as style or design is concerned. You are really encouraged to develop your own creative handwriting and I learned to be confident in making work that some people might not understand. The work I make is a hybrid of fashion and jewellery; I’ve always struggled to explain it to people when they ask what I do! I’ve found that most people like to be able to explain exactly what something is and they get confused when they see some of my pieces. I think it adds to the fascination but people sometimes reject what they don’t recognise. I think they are happy for you to do anything here, just justify why and that there is a market for it and you can do anything!

What aspects of design make you happy?

So many aspects of designing make me happy! I like to find creative solutions to problems such as how to use the last scrap of vintage fabric effectively; How I can incorporate and combine various colours, fabrics and findings etc. I love creating something that makes other people smile. I think fashion should be fun and daring! It’s a shame that as we get older we sometimes lose that playfulness that we had with our dressing up box. I worked in retail for a couple of years and met such a wide range of interesting people. I was really inspired by peoples reaction to colours, trends etc. One lady told me that despite the credit crunch she wanted the bright orange dress and not the safe black cardigan, That really got me thinking – of course if you only have so much to spend you want to spend it on something that’s got the wow factor! This made me happy!

Find Charlotte Daffern on her new website:

The lovely photographs are by Stuart Upton



Categories ,Charlotte Daffern, ,Paul Smith, ,Tarten, ,Upcycling, ,Vivienne Westwood

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Amelia’s Magazine | EA Burns introduces new season jewellery collection Second Sights

1EABURNS FLIGHT CHAIN CHOKER
The new jewellery collection from Lizzie Burns is called Second Sights and features black marble effect Rhodoid, ethical diamonds and precious metal. It is a development of the previous Ancient Rites collection, created under the name EA Burns. Here she talks about the creation of her look book images, seen here.

EABURNS SEER BRACELET
‘I work closely with Steph (Sian Smith) on my images. She has a soft style naturalistic style which captures moments and people really well. I feel it really compliments and contrasts the geometric nature of my jewellery.

EABURNS TOTEM RING
When we met to discuss the shoot, my main priority was to put the the jewellery in context (of how I wear it), and we had common influences which we wanted to come across in the shoot. We wanted it relaxed with french(ish) vibe, and a conceptual element.

EABURNS SPHINX RING jpg
Shoots with Steph are always full of energy, the best shots are always those where the model is reacting to Steph, those which don’t look forced or posed. In the same way I wanted the hair, make and styling to look real and quite tomboy. The jewellery is hard, precise and angular, but the “girl” is a real woman.

EABURNS REVOLUTION HOOP EARRINGS
The collection is inspired by an amalgamation of ideas and influences. First is process- because I work ethically the first thing I think about before anything else is material- this limits my design as I experiment with what is possible first and apply my design influences second. This season I’ve redeveloped the way I make the Rhodoid pieces, buying thicker material and CNCing it (wheras before I was hand forming) this has allows me to create a wider variety of shapes, and fully cover one side in brass sheet creating a sleeker more minimal look. I’d say design-wise my influences would be a combination of modernist design, tribal patterns and minimal lines.’

1EABURNS SPAN THE DEPTHS EARRINGS
1EABURNS FORGE RING REVELATION BRACELET BW

You can buy the new collection from EA Burns here.

Categories ,Ancient Rites, ,EA Burns, ,Lizzie Burns, ,Rhodoid, ,Second Sights, ,Sian Smith

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Amelia’s Magazine | Interview: Washington Irving introduce new album Palomides: Volumes I & II

Palomides by Rebecca May Higgins

Palomides by Rebecca May Higgins.

Why does the new album, Palomides, come in two volumes?
Before releasing Palomides, we’d primarily focused on touring for a while, so when we came to it, we thought it would be better to put it out in two parts over the course of the year. It has allowed us to tour a bit more frequently (which we love doing) and meant we’d always have something new to show our fans. We wanted to do something different from the norm, as it’s our first full record. It gave us the opportunity to put the songs in a certain context, which they may not have had if it was just an LP. 

Washington Irving city

What prompted your decision to ‘revolutionise folk music’ when you were all back in high school?
Joe and I may have had lofty ambitions when we said that, (back when we were in High School) but it did ultimately give everyone a direction for when Washington Irving started. We wanted to write something modern that lifted the right things from traditional and folk music. The stories and mythology are what really makes folk music what it is, and we wanted to reflect that in what we did, Joe especially. The sense of melody was also important, as it helped us stick out to a certain extent in Glasgow and the surrounding area, there wasn’t as many bands doing the exact thing we were as we thought there would be. Part of it was to be noticed but also because music is about progression and it feels really good to take the old and make it new. 

Washington Irving, Palomides by xplusyequals

Washington Irving, Palomides by xplusyequals.

Who writes your lyrics and can you tell us about any specific tales that feature on the album?
Joe writes the lyrics and I think occasionally the rest of us will chip in and get a few lines in. I’m speaking for Joe on this, so I might not get it dead on but… The title track has quite a tale behind it. It’s the story of the knight, Palomides, who was (in Arthurian legend) a Knight of the Round Table. His stories were not so well known and he was always a bit player in other people’s tales, so Joe took a liking to him and decided he deserved his own story. With Palomides, it’s an amalgamation of different tales that involve him hunting for the mythical ‘Questing Beast‘, a creature that looks a bit like a dragon and leopard mixed together. I won’t go any further with my explanation because you’ll just have to see for yourself (and I may take liberties and upset Joe)

WashingtonIrving_Palomides_album artwork

What was it like growing up in Oban, Scotland? Best and worst bits?
Oban is a quaint little seaside town, not necessarily dull but quite calm and peaceful. Myself and Joe met each other there and formed the first band we’d both either been in, really. We were terrible, and probably had an awful name, but it was thrilling and completely new to us. 

Best bits? Probably the fish and chips, which are incredible. 

Worst bits? There’s plenty to name, but it all comes from growing up there. When you grow up in a small seaside town and all you want to do is make music and play shows, it can become the antithesis of what you want. I can’t say much more because I’ll probably get a beating the next time I’m home.

Washington Irving by Novemto Komo

Washington Irving by Novemto Komo.

What were your early musical inspirations outside of folk, and where does the wall of noise in your music come from?
The Pogues were a massive influence on us, a great collision of punk and Celtic folk music. We wanted to do something similar to them but not necessarily with the same genres. We can’t deny the influence of Arcade Fire and Neutral Milk Hotel on us, also. Two bands that were and are so good at conveying a very deep underlying emotion in their songs. 

Washington Irving lake

We love noisy shit, it’s just too much fun not to. We played for a long time in a loud and fast manner, but with mainly acoustic and clean sounding instruments, it was just a slow drawn out development where we needed everything to get, in the words of George Lucas, faster and more intense. There’s a very good reason that distortion is found in most popular music these days, certainly rock music. It speaks on several levels and it conveys something that tone and melody can’t always quite get across. Our live shows always revolve around a good bit of noise and it’s become part of who we are. 

Washington Irving LOST

What next for Washington Irving in 2014?
We’re going to start recording some new music very soon and get back on the touring circuit for a while, I think. We might even release our two-parter as one lovely big package, if we’re feeling generous. Onwards and upwards, for certain. And louder and noisier, no doubt. 

The album made me think of folk law but as a sort of mythical ‘Old’ Science… jumbling up several hundreds of years of discovery, collecting specimens on an expedition through rough, wild (and probably quite cold and wet) new terrain, voyages, sea shanties, studying the stars and perhaps a little alchemy. And of course, love.

Palomides: Volumes I & II by Washington Irving is out now on Instinctive Racoon.

Categories ,album, ,Arcade Fire, ,folk, ,Instinctive Racoon, ,interview, ,Knight of the Round Table, ,Neutral Milk Hotel, ,Novemto Komo, ,Oban, ,Palomides, ,Rebecca May Higgins, ,scotland, ,The Pogues, ,Washington Irving, ,xplusyequals

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