LFW – Page 8 – AmeliasMagazine

Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2011 Catwalk Review: Bryce Aime

Blue lips. Lipstick. Even on the male models. Wrong or right?
Well Elliot J Frieze certainly thought it was right when he sent his models sashaying down the catwalk wearing “cool blue” on their smackers. And all only in his second season at London Fashion Week S/S 11. Brave move.

But actually Frieze always packs his shows with a little something extra; last season Jacquette Wheeler and Amber Le Bon were models du jour and this season see’s an appearance from Chronicles of Narnia actress (and muse) Anna Popplewell.

Of the actual collection though I wasn’t convinced. A mixture of Menswear and Womenswear the pieces were part utility and part work wear. No joke, store models wore dishevelled ties over striped shirts and clashed them with gingham dirndl skirts all in a palette of “powder shades of lemon and blueberry sherbet, hard boiled peppermints coupled with vibrant shades of fruit nougat for trimmings.” All a bit too saccharine for my liking. Top that off with a male model in a cropped powder blue jacket and something was not quite right.

Although Frieze did pull it back with his classic tailored trench coats and dresses; something of a speciality due to his known skill of “driving the boundaries of classic tailoring.”

I don’t think it was the aim though to send a model down the catwalk with her dress undone. Poor girl had to keep it together with her hand behind her back all the way down. All in a days work for a fashion designer!

A fashion mistake….not a new trend

Despite the sickly colour palette Frieze pulled together a collection that was rounded and made sense whilst sticking to his “British Heritage.” Taking his final walk down the catwalk Frieze surprised us all by joining the models in their love of blue lips. Cheeky scamp. But even more surprisingly (for Frieze and us) one spectator felt compelled to jump out of their seat and accost him for a photo before he walked off stage. Even though slightly stunned (and who wouldn’t be…..security!) Frieze ever the professional made the most of the impromptu photo op and posed with his muse. Lets not write off this one yet.

Illustration by Jaymie O’Callaghan
Bryce Aime show at On/Off
Illustrations by Gabriel Ayala

Random celebrity spot of the day had to go to Janice Dickinson – who sat botoxed to the max in the front row at Bryce Aime. Well, about it apparently. I didn’t see the self-proclaimed ‘world’s first supermodel’ (and funniest guest on Come Dine with Me in the show’s history) because I was crammed in at the back of the On / Off showcase. My camera would be out of action, information pills thanks to the guys in turbans standing in front of me, viagra 60mg but with the lively, laid-back atmosphere and banging music in the On/Off space, it was on with the show.

Bryce Aime fashion illustration
Illustrations by Gabriel Ayala

Known for his understated, elegant designs, and harsh tailoring, Bryce Aime was going in a different direction for S/S 11, with ‘Asiarama’ (my favourite show title so far) a theatrical collection drawing on Kabuki costume and the Beijing Opera. It was quite a show – Bryce’s skilled tailoring and clean lines hadn’t quite disappeared, with some kimono style tops, and structured dresses, but things were a lot more playful than usual. It was like seeing a harlequin transported to the Far East – with mismatched coloured tights, bright clown like makeup and space age shoes. There were also hats aplenty – avant-garde headpieces and even a mini crown of pom poms and feather plumes.

Bryce Aime Fashion Illustration
Illustrations by Gabriel Ayala

Thankfully, Bryce’s sensational prints were still there, but manipulated into skin tight leggings and even a fluid chiffon mini dress. This was the first time Bryce had branched out into shoes and headgear, and he went for all-out drama. It was entirely unexpected collection – but a whole lot of fun.

Written by Lauren Smith on Tuesday September 21st, 2010 4:53 pm

Categories ,Bryce Aime, ,Leggings, ,lfw, ,london, ,London Fashion Week, ,onoff, ,S/S 2011, ,Womenswear

Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2011 Catwalk Review: Masha Ma

Masha Ma SS 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Masha Ma: detail. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Sad to say, viagra 100mg for sale but sometimes I don’t even know what’s on my own blog… and so it was that I discovered that we’ve already interviewed the very talented Masha Ma in a pre London Fashion Week blog post. I am aware that I dissed an all white collection from Lilee and I hereby reserve the right to change my mind, ampoule because Masha’s Icebreaker collection was also predominantly white, and it was fabulous.

Masha Ma SS 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory

Masha Ma by Faye West.

Maybe it was the sly addition of sparkly silver that did it for me? That and the polished tailoring of multilayered capes, flouncey tiered peplums and gorgeous silky oversized bow details. I loved the styling with big knuckle duster silver rings worn across delicate model hands: it was a clever ballsy accent and stopped it all being a bit too nice.

Masha Ma SS 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory

Masha Ma by Faye West.

I’ve bumped into a funny old range of people at this fashion week – at Masha Ma I walked in and was immediately scooped up by Reiki, a fashion designer and girlfriend of my cousin, so we’re more used to meeting at family events. She was sitting front row with the Bodyamr designer, who she works for. Sadly I missed that show helping my parents choose two new kitties from the cat rescue centre. *Not sad about new kitties though.* Turns out that Masha Ma is a friend because she used to work for Bodyamr too, presumably after she completed her MA at the eponymous Central Saint Martins – really the only place to go it seems.

Masha Ma SS 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory

Masha Ma by Faye West.

This was the first time Masha Ma had shown at London Fashion Week properly, and if this fantastic collection was anything to go by she’ll be a fixture for a long time to come. Keep an eye on this one folks, very clever indeed.

Masha Ma SS 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory

Written by Amelia Gregory on Monday September 20th, 2010 8:58 am

Categories ,Bodyamr, ,Faye West, ,lfw, ,Lilee, ,London Fashion Week, ,Masha Ma

Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2011: What’s Hot… and What’s Not.

jenny robins – blog slam – circus – toast and biscuit – thewedordeadwager sketch at the rag factory male dating humour
LFW SS2011-photo by Amelia Gregory
All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Every London Fashion Week has it’s own particular foibles, stomach it’s own idiosyncrasies – and this September was no exception. So I thought I’d write up a little round up of things that will always remind me of this particular fashion week. In no particular order, sickness here goes…

Teabags, check Jelly Bellys and Ferrer Rocher
Why is it that tea companies love to sponsor fashion week so? Qi Teas, Pure Teas, Tea Pigs, Pukka – they were all at it. Is it because tea can be dispensed in a relatively cheap sachet of one and it inherently contains so little calories? That might make sense, but then weigh it up against the copious quantities of smoothie flavour jelly beans, Ferrer Rocher and Elizabeth Shaw choccies that I also managed to collect at the shows. Not that I’m complaining mind you…

The smiley ice-cream man
Anyone who spent any time at Somerset House will surely have encountered the sweetest organic ice-cream vendor from Laverstoke Park Farm. I’m guessing that plenty of people must have sampled his wares because there was only ever one flavour left when I passed by: liquorice. Shouldn’t work, but so did. Try it, honestly, it was the best thing ever.

LFW SS2011 Laverstoke Farm ice cream

The Phoenix Magazine girls
How many times were you offered this new magazine? It seems like it was thrust into my face every time I went to a show. Because we really need another fashion magazine. Oh yes. That’s what the world is really missing right now. Needless to say I haven’t had a moment to look at it. Has anyone else? Information overload!

LFW SS2011

My Palladium Boots
I was sent a pair of Palladiums a few months ago but I didn’t wear them for ages because I thought they were a bit ugly. But as the weather has got colder and I’ve realised I can’t wear my plastic Melissas through the winter I’ve come to realise that I actually like them quite a lot. Not for me high heels, I’m afraid I need sensible shoes for the shows and whilst my Palladiums might not be the most beautiful footwear in the world they carried me through LFW something fab. Thanks Palladium!

LFW SS2011-Palladium Boots

Great weather
Wow! The weather was gorgeous and as any seasoned fashionista will tell you good weather is a real rarity for the September shows when it usually rains like hell. What a fantastic bonus, especially for cyclists like myself.

LFW SS2011 Menswear Omar Kashoura
LFW SS2011 Menswear Jonno Ovans
A Garden Party atmosphere on menswear day.

Getting between the shows on a bike
Surely the only way to do it: totally carbon efficient, fast and healthy. I don’t understand why more people don’t cycle, but at least I persuaded some of my team to join me, and it was great to cycle around London with them like a latter day Red Hand Gang.

The Gimp Lady
Making an appearance in various latex outfits and a blow up wig, as she did last season. But who is beneath? That’s what I’d like to know…

Charlie le Mindu SS2011 Gimp Lady

Disco ball mannequin at On/Off
…taking over from the papercut and deer sculpture of last season.

LFW-onoff-JOCHEUNG disco mannequin
Illustration by Jo Cheung.

Vitamin bloody water – every bloody where.
I’ve drunk so much of this disgusting sugary Coca-Cola product that I think I may even be a convert. Ugh. And to think my favourite kiwi and strawberry combo owes it’s bright pink colour to the colouring provided by purple sweet potato and purple carrot. Utter madness.

LFW SS2011-Vitamin water

Models falling off their shoes.
Everywhere! All the time. On every catwalk. Ridiculous! Your shoes are too high designers: spare a thought for your poor clothes’ horses.

Holly Fulton SS2011 slip up
A model kicks off her shoes at Holly Fulton. She was just one of many who stumbled.

Hanging out with Tatty Devine.
They always cheer me up when I visit the static stands to view next season’s collections. This time I joined them for an end of fashion week party at their Covent Garden shop and then we all went for paella. It was mostest fun.

LFW SS2011 Louise Harries and Harriet Vine
Louise Harries of Prick Your Finger and Harriet Vine of Tatty Devine model the latest collection.

Gorgeous young girls with big hair and pink lips.
Pink lips are the best. If only I looked like this model on her way out of the Paul Costelloe show… sigh.

LFW SS2011-model

Lots of big rings.
I lost track of the amount of shows that featured big finger adornments: time for me to dig out all those silver rings I’ve hidden in drawers. Pile em on, it’s an easy way to update your look.

David Koma SS2011 Ring Mawi
Mawi for David Koma.

Masha Ma SS2011 rings
Masha Ma.

KTZ SS2011 rings
KTZ.

Men in big statement jewellery
Dangly feather earrings, vast chunky necklaces… you name it and the men were wearing it. In spades.

Earring-Menswear-LFW-S-S-2011-Antonia-Parker
Illustration by Antonia Parker.

My ability to get into shows without queuing.
This year my brazen blagging knew no bounds so even when ticketless I managed to sit front row at almost every show. After all it’s the only way to get decent shots if you’re not in the photographer’s pit (and we don’t want the same pics as everyone else). Over ten years in the business means I know who and how to hustle.

LFW SS2011-queue
See this? I don’t do it.

Performances, presentations, shows.
There’s a lot of muddle about what all these actually are so quite often what one presumes is a rolling presentation actually occurs at a specific time not known to the audience. In this way I missed quite a few. Clearly there needs to be more common parlance about what a performance or presentation means.

Babies at the shows.
Eek! Not sure what I think of this! The music can get pretty damn loud you know, and then there are the naked ladies to consider: I wouldn’t mind if they looked anything like what a real woman looks like…

LFW SS2011-baby

Fashion illustration is HOT.
Thanks in no small part, I’m sure, to the wonderful contributions on this very website. Suddenly everyone is running illustration as part of their fashion blog posts, including Fashion Scout – who had a team of illustrators live sketching at the shows. Bodes well for my upcoming book, Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration.

My fabulous team.
You’ve all been beyond brilliant. Sniff. Here’s just a few of them:

LFW SS2011-Matt Bramford
Matt Bramford: my utterly brilliant fashion editor.

LFW SS2011-Satu Fox and Sally Mumby-Croft
Satu Fox, Sally Mumby-Croft and an Orla Kiely cut out. Guess which is which.

LFW SS2011-Naomi Law and Aniela Murphy
Illustrators Naomi Law and Aniela Murphy.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Friday October 1st, 2010 7:50 pm

Categories ,Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration, ,Aniela Murphy, ,Antonia Parker, ,Elizabeth Shaw, ,Fashion Scout, ,Ferrer Rocher, ,Gimp Lady, ,Holly Fulton, ,Jelly Belly, ,Jo Cheung, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,Masha Ma, ,Mawi. David Koma, ,Naomi Law, ,Paul Costelloe, ,Phoenix Magazine, ,Prick your Finger, ,Pure Teas, ,Qi Teas, ,Red Hand Gang, ,rings, ,Sally Mumby-Croft, ,Somerset House, ,Tatty Devine, ,Tea Pigs, ,Vitamin Water

Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012: Catwalk Review: Holly Fulton

Holly Fulton S/S 2012 by Megan Thomas

Holly Fulton S/S 2012 by Megan Thomas

I was blown away by Holly’s debut in A/W 2009 – a collection of designs influenced by my favourite movement, generic art deco. Mix that with jewel colours, rx luxurious materials and contemporary shapes, and I don’t see what there isn’t to love. When my ticket arrived, I didn’t care that it was standing, I was in that queue at 1.30pm, ready and waiting. I checked Twitter before the show, and saw that Marie Davies, the Junior Fashion Editor at Drapers had tweeted details from the show notes as being ‘dressed for Vegas but holidaying in Margate’, and that she was expecting ‘fruit machines and neon lights’. I thought that Holly’s previous collections had already channelled a little bit of Vegas ‘glamour’, but what would come of the British seaside resort combination?

Holly Fulton S/S 2012 by Geiko Louve

Holly Fulton S/S 2012 by Geiko Louve

When I got into the BFC Tent, I was determined to ensure that I got a good spot to take photos of Holly’s creations. I found myself at the end of the catwalk, and deliberated on where to stand – floor, or step, floor or step. The lady next to me, also holding a camera, smiled at me, and made way for me to stand next to her. I asked her if she had spotted who was on the front row (Hilary Alexander flying the Fulton flag in one of her printed dresses). She told me that she hadn’t noticed anyone, and that Holly was one of the few shows she attended, and solely because of her ‘pretty special’ jewellery. Suddenly, this lady’s name came to me, Julia Hutton-Squire, the editor of Adorn London, a jewellery-dedicated website that I read religiously. She was welcoming and friendly, and it was a pleasure to meet and enjoy the show with her.

Holly Fulton S/S 2012 by Miranda Williams

Holly Fulton S/S 2012 – All photography by Miranda Williams

In the darkness, the Aeroplane remix of the Cassius song The Sound of Violence began to play, a favourite of mine, so a very good start. To match this upbeat tempo, Holly opened her show with a signature bright canary yellow look. A pair of wide cut trousers, detailed with a black deco print, and a short sleeve checkerboard pattern top, in the same colours. And straight off, some jewellery! As the model walked, a huge pair of sea shell hoop earrings swung from her ears. Holly’s press release had said the show would take some influences from the sea, shell grottoes actually… were sea themed accessories going to be it? Mermaid-models having finished dressing in their eclectic outfits, to load themselves up with the spoils of the sea bed? Fantastic!

Holly Fulton S/S 2012 by Miranda Williams

Holly’s Versace influences became clear over the next few looks – when I spotted a peek of zebra print in a clutch bag that a model wearing a retro style brown and orange printed playsuit carried with her. This animal print stood out, in the middle of the looks, and worked as the collection’s most Vegas-fabulous designs. The first was a zebra print bomber jacket, cropped enough to rise and show an enviable flat stomach, which was paired with a white mini skirt, printed with an art deco and zebra pattern. The second was a flowing, European-esque jumpsuit, teamed with those shell earrings again. In a later look, a zebra pattern strapless top was worn underneath a white patent leather mini skirt, which was embroidered with a beautiful red coral design. This strapless top, from my position, looked like silk, but I learned later that it was actually intarsia knit, and part of a collaboration with Caerlee Mills, a Scottish textile mill who produced a number of pieces for this collection. Looking back at the photos from the show, these pieces are now easy to spot, but it is only with close inspection that you can see they are knitted and not printed silk. I loved the combination of these woven materials with Holly’s usual printed silks.

Holly Fulton S/S 2012 by Emmi Ojala

Holly Fulton S/S 2012 by Emmi Ojala

The exotic vibe carried on, with Holly presenting some of her signature body-con mini dresses and a couple of sexy swimwear looks. Holly also cited the work of American photographer Slim Aarons as an influence, who notably took photos of the social elite. It is his 1960’s pool-scene photos that reverberate in this collection. I was previously familiar with Aaron’s work, as one of my favourite jewellery designers, Merle O’Grady, was influenced by the same set of photos for her S/S 2011 collection. The photos are supremely kitsch and stylish, and I would recommend that you go and check them out. The bandeau swimwear was great, a nice addition for the range – although the white and black deco print bikini was worn by the most gorgeous model, and it was actually her I couldn’t keep my eyes off, rather than the bikini!

Holly Fulton S/S 2012 by Miranda Williams

On either side of the swimwear, were some fantastic mini dresses that were adorned with pop colour fringing, macramé beads and sequins. The sea theme continued through with shell, coral and wave prints popping over the dresses in blue and pink hues. This was definitely a show that said ‘Welcome to Summer‘. All Holly needed to top these off was a fantastic pair of shades – and there were Cutler and Gross to step in with some pretty special acetate sunnies to complete the look.

Holly Fulton S/S 2012 by Joana Faria

Holly Fulton S/S 2012 by Joana Faria

Holly loves a contrast, and we spanned a decade to the 1970’s with some silk wide leg trousers and a grand flowing maxi dress in sea flora prints. These were stark black, mixed with electric turquoise and would work as a glam evening choice. The continued narrative of prints, the sea, animal or natural, really helped bring this collection together. The illustrations of the coral, the seahorses, and the waves were kitsch, playing back to Slim Aaron’s photography. These looks also made the best of the Louboutin mules in patent black. It really is Holly’s choice of accessories that make her stand out for me – this run saw glossy totes, angular bags, in monochrome checks, studded cuffs, and of course the necklaces, which have become part of the Holly Fulton signature as much as the mini dresses.

Holly Fulton S/S 2012 by Miranda Williams
The show closed with a short mini shift, that came down the catwalk as a delicious offering of influences all at once – tribal zebra, delicate sea shells, and clashing colours, orange, black and white, finished off with dreamy pink tones. Add the pink sea shell earrings and patent peep toe shoes, and it was signature Holly Fulton.

Some critics may say that this collection didn’t see Holly push any boundaries, and show us something new, but for me it was a confident show, and she is building an aesthetic that her brand will no doubt grow steadily and successfully upon. Let’s give dues to a designer who can make the unlikely combinations of sequin, fringing and body con work with seashells, zebra print and Vegas influences. For me it was fantastic Fulton.

Written by Miranda Williams on Friday September 23rd, 2011 11:58 am

Categories ,1960s, ,1970s, ,Aaron Slims, ,accessories, ,Adorn London, ,Art Deco, ,bodycon, ,Caerlee Mills, ,cassius, ,Cutler and Gross, ,Drapers, ,Emmi Ojala, ,fashion, ,Geiko Louve, ,Hilary Alexander, ,Holly Fulton, ,jewellery, ,Joana Faria, ,knit, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,Louboutin, ,Megan Thomas, ,Merle O’Grady, ,Merle O’Grady, ,print, ,rca, ,S/S 2012, ,scotland, ,Slim Aarons, ,Swimwear, ,twitter, ,Vegas, ,Versace, ,Womenswear

Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2011 Catwalk Review: Bunmi Koko 2

Vauxhall Fashion Scout plays a huge part in showcasing fresh London talent; the first show this week was that of Nigerian luxury label Bunmi Koko. Promising to present clothes ‘celebrating female empowerment and domination’, order I was told that the ‘Matriarchy’ S/S collection was heavily inspired by all-male leopard masquerade (Ekpe) from the secret Efik tribe in Nigeria.

The tribal influence was immediate as the show opened with a terrific giant colourful pompom man who came shuffling on with an excellent shaky shaky dance to Kanye West’s Love Lockdown.

The show, viagra dosage although slightly chaotic at the beginning and very embarrassing for one girl who had to be ushered out of her front row seat to make way for a short bearded man, pharmacy was a visual treat. As we all sat and waited for it to begin, I counted a surprising number of ‘slebs’ in the front row – Calum Best, Mutya Buena who used to be in the Sugababes (didn’t everyone?) and Becca from Hollyoaks all cast their critical eyes over the collection.

Still slightly dazed by the wonders of a bright dancing furby-esque creature, the rest of the show began with four monochrome outfits complete with feather masks and the occasional pineapple looking cane. The oversized pom poms were back, but this time used with (a little bit) more restraint and made from rayon raffia.

Compared to the other shows yesterday Koko’s was not as obviously ‘spring/summer’ and featured much stronger colours, with heavy black accents defining each model’s outfit. Most of the looks mixed different textures of feathers, wool, small embellishments and tiered rows of layering on the skirts. For S/S 11 Bunmi Koko offers a very tailored, and sharply silhouetted collection, with nipped in structured jackets, above the knee dresses and tapered trousers.

Vauxhall Fashion Scout plays a huge part in showcasing fresh London talent; the first show this week was that of Nigerian luxury label Bunmi Koko. Promising to present clothes ‘celebrating female empowerment and domination’, viagra sale I was told that the ‘Matriarchy’ S/S collection was heavily inspired by all-male leopard masquerade (Ekpe) from the secret Efik tribe in Nigeria.

The tribal influence was immediate as the show opened with a terrific giant colourful pompom man who came shuffling on with an excellent shaky shaky dance to Kanye West’s Love Lockdown.

The show, although slightly chaotic at the beginning and very embarrassing for one girl who had to be ushered out of her front row seat to make way for a short bearded man, was a visual treat. As we all sat and waited for it to begin, I counted a surprising number of ‘slebs’ in the front row – Calum Best, Mutya Buena who used to be in the Sugababes (didn’t everyone?) and Becca from Hollyoaks all cast their critical eyes over the collection.

Bunmi Koko by Aniela Murphy.

I hadn’t got a clue what to expect but I thought I’d just slip into the Bumni Koko presentation anyway. Sadly I had just missed the catwalk show, more about but what I did encounter was an enthusiastically milling crowd snapping away at the models who were parading amongst them. Towering above us plebs, find they sassily swung canes adorned with vast pompoms, their eyes shielded in exotic feathers and tassels. Bright reds, ochres and black worked beautifully in tailored drapery and graphic prints that looked to be inspired by complex tie-dying.

Bunmi Koko S/S 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory

All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Bunmi Koko by Aniela Murphy.

Eventually Bumni herself come out for a photo call with the whole line up, and as she posed grinning amongst her Amazonian women I asked one of the PR girls for some literature. I was promptly presented with a glossy brochure extolling Bumni’s background and contacts. So I can hereby give you the full scoop:

Bunmi Koko S/S 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory

Bunmi Olaye is Nigerian by descent but came to the UK as a teenager. Since then she’s done an awful lot of studying, including styling, photography, illustration and that all important business and marketing – hence the excitable guff I’ve been reading. Interestingly her ‘Matriarchy’ collection was inspired by a Scottish missionary who lived in Nigeria during the reign of Queen Victoria and may or may not have been involved with a secret women’s cult of the Efik tribe of Calabar. Disclaimer: they may or may not have been a women’s cult once upon a time, but they are today known for being a mysterious male cult.

Bunmi Koko by Aniela Murphy.

It all sounds terribly thrilling, and I was sad to find out that I had clearly missed a bit of a performance at the start of the show: a person utterly covered in gigantic coloured pompoms like a mutant poodle (see Flo’s earlier post on the show). Bunmi certainly knows how to pull off her fantasy warrior women, but beneath all the styling there was also some really wonderful clothing. An exciting new talent to keep an eye on.

Bunmi Koko S/S 2011 photo by Amelia Gregory

Written by Amelia Gregory on Saturday September 18th, 2010 9:24 pm

Categories ,Aniela Murphy, ,Bunmi Koko, ,Efik tribe, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,Matriarchy, ,Nigeria, ,Queen Victoria

Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2011 Catwalk Review: Ones to Watch

LFW-Georgia Hardinge_by Krister Selin
Georgia Hardinge by Krister Selin.

I really enjoy the Ones to Watch because it inevitably features a plethora of new talent all wheeled out in one show on the same hastily repackaged models, page meaning that a compromise must inevitably be reached concerning casting, viagra 60mg hair and make up – for timing’s sake. And usually the standard is very high. This time round we were treated to four very different young designers, side effects or at least young to the world of fashion:

LFW_Lillee_Abigail Nottingham
Lilee by Abigail Nottingham.

London College of Fashion graduate Lilee showed an all cream collection (or was that the yellow glow of the lights?) of drapes and folds and pleats, though I found it hard to make out the exciting sculptural qualities promised by her previous collections as seen online. It was very demure and tasteful, but not that exciting for a colour hound like myself.

Fashion Scout Ones to Watch Lilee photo by Amelia Gregory

All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Next up was my pick of the bunch: Charlotte Taylor laid breast plate adornments and over-sized pendants over a confident collection of dresses and shorts presented in a chirpy fashion. I loved the fetching colour range of tomato, mustard, fresh mint green and wedgewood blues, presented with robot prints and striped cutaway detailing. Her blog states ” Don’t expect – black” Very good. We like. Apparently she used to work at Luella, and this easy going, playful and highly wearable collection was synonymous with the style that Luella was so well known for. I particularly loved the high wasted velvet shorts and crop top combo. Keep an eye on this designer.

Fashion Scout Ones to Watch Charlotte Taylor photo by Amelia Gregory

LFW_Charlotte Taylor by Abigail Nottingham

Charlotte Taylor by Abigail Nottingham.

Sadly A.Hallucination did not show psychedelic fare as I had rather hoped for: but rather some quite nice dandyish menswear. The duo of Hwan Sun Park and Chung Chung Lee are graduates of you know where…. (Central… need I say the rest?) and cut an amusing pair when they took their turn to bow on the catwalk. It was also a highly polished – fun yet wearable – collection, and I liked the shorts paired with low slung cut waistcoats and jackets featuring pretty details such as toggles and zippered pleats.

Fashion Scout Ones to Watch A.Hallucination photo by Amelia Gregory

LFW-A Hallucination by Krister Selin

A.Hallucination by Krister Selin.

Next up was the hot tip for the show – Georgia Hardinge. And I must say that the ruffle covered wedding-ish concoctions were initially as appealing as Bjork dressed in THAT swan dress: even the shoes and models’ poker straight hair did not escape a serious ruffling. But then came the real show stoppers – netted chiffon sculptural dresses that seemed almost to have come from the mind of a different person altogether. These emphasised the hips and waist in peculiar ways – destined, like the ruffles, only to look good on the most waifish of people.

Fashion Scout Ones to Watch Georgia Hardinge photo by Amelia Gregory

LFW-Georgia Hardinge by Krister Selin

Georgia Hardinge by Krister Selin.

Previous collections have been interesting, but I’m not sure I was sold on the concept of this one, which was allegedly an analysis of what a woman is… I did however like the final bright yellow number, which looked less meringue bridesmaid and more cheeky 80s cocktail dress. I’m definitely sticking with Charlotte Taylor as my fave though.

Fashion Scout Ones to Watch Georgia Hardinge photo by Amelia Gregory

Written by Amelia Gregory on Sunday September 19th, 2010 9:56 am

Categories ,A.Hallucination, ,Abigail Nottingham, ,Charlotte Taylor, ,Chung Chung Lee, ,Georgia Hardinge, ,Hwan Sun Park, ,Krister Selin, ,lfw, ,Lilee, ,London Fashion Week, ,Ones To Watch

Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Catwalk Review: Ashish

Ashish S/S 2012-by-Antonia-Parker
Ashish S/S 2012 by Antonia Parker.

There aren’t many designers who make me so excited I can hardly breathe, page but that tends to be a side effect of watching an Ashish catwalk show. Out they came, a stream of beautiful girls dressed in brightly coloured sequinned floral creations… except this being Ashish flowers were not staid or overly girly.

Ashish SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Ashish-S-S12-by-Antonia-Parker
Ashish S/S 2012 by Antonia Parker.

Sunflowers were emblazoned against monochrome stripes, giant daisies ran riot, roses and primroses entwined, glossy orange lilies had stamens the size of forearms, a blouse was printed with marigolds and offset against a mini skirt in a bold brick design. There were chequerboards and zebra stripes, zigzags and leopard spots. Bright neon grounds gave a bolder edge to curling florals.

Ashish SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory
Paloma Faith was sporting an Ashish jacket on the front row.

Ashish SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Ashish S/S 2012 by Gilly Rochester.

Girls were styled to perfection by Celestine Cooney in DMs and straw fedoras with loose plaits, glittery eyes and dark glossy lips. Flowers popped out of boots, circling elegant calves in sprigs that dropped petals in a trail along the catwalk.

Ashish SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

LFW SS12 Ashish by Kristina Vasiljeva
Ashish S/S 2012 by Kristina Vasiljeva.

As each outfit came out I just about managed to contain my excitement, imagining just how easy it would be to wear these beautiful clothes: simple shift dresses with cowl backs, drawstring waisted shorts, casual t-shirts and floppy collared jackets that would suit women of all shapes and sizes.

Ashish SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

Ashish-by-Kate-Eldridge
Ashish S/S 2012 by Kate Eldridge.

Le Jardin d’Ashish was everything that Ashish does best: using signature sequins to inject very wearable clothing with a sense of colour and fun that no other designer could ever dare replicate. Long may Ashish continue to plough his very own idiosyncratic fashion furrow. He even thanked his mum on the show notes, how sweet is that?

Ashish SS 2012 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Friday September 23rd, 2011 2:54 pm

Categories ,Antonia Parker, ,Ashish, ,BFC Tent, ,Brick, ,Celestine Cooney, ,DMs, ,DS Dundee, ,florals, ,Gilly Rochester, ,Kate Eldridge, ,Kristina Vasiljeva, ,Le Jardin d’Ashish, ,Leopard, ,lfw, ,Lilies, ,London Fashion Week, ,paloma faith, ,S/S 2012, ,Sequins, ,Somerset House, ,Straw Fedora, ,Zebra

Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012: Catwalk Review: Holly Fulton

Holly Fulton S/S 2012 by Megan Thomas

Holly Fulton S/S 2012 by Megan Thomas

Holly Fulton S/S 2012 by Geiko Louve

Holly Fulton S/S 2012 by Geiko Louve

Holly Fulton S/S 2012 by Miranda Williams

Holly Fulton S/S 2012 – All photography by Miranda Williams

Holly Fulton S/S 2012 by Miranda Williams

Holly Fulton S/S 2012 by Emmi Ojala

Holly Fulton S/S 2012 by Emmi Ojala

Holly Fulton S/S 2012 by Miranda Williams

Holly Fulton S/S 2012 by Joana Faria

Holly Fulton S/S 2012 by Joana Faria

Written by Miranda Williams on Friday September 23rd, 2011 11:58 am

Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2011 Catwalk Review: Bunmi Koko

Bunmi Koko S/S 2011 illustrated by Jenny Goldstone

Vauxhall Fashion Scout plays a huge part in showcasing fresh London talent; the first show this week was that of Nigerian luxury label Bunmi Koko. Promising to present clothes ‘celebrating female empowerment and domination’, buy information pills I was told that the ‘Matriarchy’ S/S collection was heavily inspired by all-male leopard masquerade (Ekpe) from the secret Efik tribe in Nigeria.

The tribal influence was immediate as the show opened with a terrific giant colourful pompom man who came shuffling on with an excellent shaky shaky dance to Kanye West’s Love Lockdown.

The show, information pills although slightly chaotic at the beginning and very embarrassing for one girl who had to be ushered out of her front row seat to make way for a short bearded man, was a visual treat. As we all sat and waited for it to begin, I counted a surprising number of ‘slebs’ in the front row – Calum Best, Mutya Buena who used to be in the Sugababes (didn’t everyone?) and Becca from Hollyoaks all cast their critical eyes over the collection.

Still dazed by the wonders of a bright dancing furby-esque creature, the rest of the show began with four monochrome outfits complete with feather masks and the occasional pineapple looking cane. The oversized pom poms were back, but this time used with (a little bit) more restraint and made from rayon raffia.

Bunmi Koko S/S 2011 illustrated by Jenny Goldstone

Compared to other shows I attended yesterday, Koko’s was not as obviously ‘spring/summer’ and featured much stronger colours (deep reds, mustard yellows and two tone prints), with heavy black accents defining each model’s outfit. Most of the looks mixed different textures of feathers, wool, small embellishments and tiered rows of layering on the skirts. For S/S 2011 Bunmi Koko offers a very tailored, and sharply silhouetted collection, with nipped in structured jackets, above the knee dresses and tapered trousers.

Bunmi Koko S/S 2011 illustrated by Jenny Goldstone

Written by Florence Massey on Saturday September 18th, 2010 8:55 pm

Categories ,Bunmi Koko, ,catwalk, ,fashion, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,lfw, ,london, ,London Fashion Week, ,Luxury, ,New Talent, ,pom-poms, ,S/S 2011, ,University of East London, ,Vauxhall Fashion Scout, ,Womenswear

Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2011 Catwalk Review: Paul Costelloe

LFW Jena.Theo catwalk show SS11

In the prelude to September’s London Fashion Week, nurse Amelia’s Magazine ran a series of interviews with designers and previews of designers to watch. One of these took the form of a conversation between Amelia and Bora Aksu, viagra a designer whose progression we love to watch and have followed since his graduation from that increasingly famous St Martins MA.

The interview (a must read) discusses Bora Aksu’s involvement with People Tree and the designer’s personal attempts to incorporate ethically sourced material in the main collection.

As aforementioned, viagra approved Bora’s shows are often magical and his Spring Summer 2011 collection was no exception, the designer signature material combinations were present on the dresses alongside the new additions of delicately tapered trousers.

Illustration by Gemma Randall

For S/S 11 Bora Aksu premiered his new collection as part of the always pleasing On|Off schedule (there are multiple schedules at London Fashion Week and after three seasons I am still getting my head around the numerous venues, times, places and dates!). Set in the basement of Victoria House, Bloomsbury Square, London Fashion Week“>Aksu produced a series of eerily romantic garments in which all the looks were completed by inky black lines on cream hosiery.

Illustration by Gemma Randall

A whimsical affair, each dress elaborated the models physical features through the application of delicate ruffles. Carefully crafted materials mimicked that of an anatomically deconstructed corset. The adorned dresses drew attention to Bora Aksu’s craft drawing the viewers eyes towards every seam, hem and contrasting material.

The collection celebrated the experience of wearing material, from lace panels to the injection of silver jacquard in a pair of beautifully cut trousers. Compared to S/S 10, S/S 2011 was a pared down collection, but as always the designer’s dress patterns intrigued the viewer’s eye.

The mainly muted collection contained moments of vivid saturation achieved by the addition of a beautiful deep red. As always Bora’s eye for collecting and studying discarded garments made this a very special collection and a lovely week to London Fashion Week.

Illustration by Gemma Randall

Photographs by Sally Mumby-Croft

Illustration by Faye West

Last London Fashion Week, information pills the Maria Grachvogel show was celebtastic, with Erin O’ connor and Yasmin Le Bon sitting front row. There seemed to be a lack of famous faces this time round, but it could be that they were driven away by the incessant ‘chirping crickets’ soundtrack which, as we waited for the show to start, began to grate on the soul. The natural world vibe seemed to be lost on the lady sitting next to me who was wearing what can only be described as an entire hind; despite it being so mild that I hadn’t even worn a jacket.

To begin with it was hard to spot the influence of Nature in the collection; there were far too many nude, caramel and pale silver numbers for my liking; which I should have expected given words like ‘minimalism’ and ‘chic simplicity’ that were bandied around in the press blurb. Not until the appearance of a canary yellow fishtail gown did anything make me sit up and take notice; hair and make-up being equally bland…sorry, I mean ‘minimalist’.

Illustration by Faye West

Kingfisher blue pieces brightened up the collection and the final few numbers bearing ‘wolf,’ ‘moth wing’ and ‘phoenix’ artwork had me almost converted. Organic greens and a fiery orange against deep blue really did evoke a reflection of the environment, unlike the opening pieces of the collection which were all a bit on the beige side.

Illustration by Faye West

I guess if you have the body of a ballerina and the face of a supermodel you might be able to throw on a paper thin, nude dress that clings to you as you walk; and whilst the effect of the chiffon and silk as the models moved was beautiful, I fail to see it being a look many women could pull off. The prints however were truly striking, and would flatter many more skin tones than the pale, caramel palette.

Paul Costelloe S/S 2011 LFW photo by Amelia Gregory
All photography by Amelia Gregory

London Fashion Week opened with a collective bemused giggle when the well dressed crowd of a certain age overheard stressed shouting backstage at the Paul Costelloe show. This elder statesman of British fashion is not a designer that I’ve ever really paid attention to before, cure and I’m wondering why that is?

Paul Costelloe S/S 2011 LFW photo by Amelia Gregory

lfw paulcostelloe lemclennan
Paul Costelloe by LE Mclennan.

His was a delightful show, order featuring darling flared skater and layered tulip shape skirts bedecked in dainty digital prints and accessorised with some fabulous bottom bows and some bright pink lipstick. It was all shown with big back combed hair and a jaunty bounce. And the best thing? It was all eminently wearable.

Paul Costelloe S/S 2011 LFW photo by Amelia Gregory

LFW-Paul-Costelloe-Helena-Maratheftis
Paul Costelloe by Helena Maratheftis.

I wasn’t so enamoured of his menswear. I am sure it was beautifully cut but some was pretty conservative, ed though the shorts were a cute touch and I liked the floral print shirts and the splashes of colour.

Paul Costelloe S/S 2011 LFW photo by Amelia Gregory

LFW Paul Costelloe Sine Skau

Paul Costelloe by Sine Skau.

The show ended with woops from the audience as his paraded down the catwalk. I’ll just say that again: SIX sons. SIX. Did you get that. He has SIX sons. We were all marvelling at this fact after the show, when it was pointed out that he is Irish. Still, as someone said, “doesn’t he have a TV?”

Paul Costelloe S/S 2011 LFW photo by Amelia Gregory

Two of his sons take to the catwalk.